Historic architecture, hilltop towns, fabulous food

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Hist/ric architecture,hillt/p t/wns, fabul/us
f//d: Sicilyis Italy in /verdrive.Takea trip
ar/undthis bewitchingc/rner/f the c/untry,
fr/m M/unt Etna'sv/lcanicsl/pest/ the
blackbeaches/f the Ae/lian Islands
WORDS OLIVER BERRX •
PHOTOGRAPHS MATT MUNRO
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Y"urtrip mapped "ut
A cl/seenc/unterwith M/unt Etnabeginsthis 400-mile t/ur /f Sicily'seclectic
highlights.Heads/uth t/ the Bar/quegl/ry /f Scicli,eastt/ the glam/ur
/fTa/rmina, n/rth t/ the vivid Ae/lian Islandsandwest t/ r/wdy Palerm/
©TAORMINA
Bestf/r seaside
glam/ur
Baskin the architectural
gl/ries /f this hands/me
t/wn in theValdi IM/t/,
s/uthern Sicily'sUnesc/listed
Bar//ueregi/n.
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©ETNA
Bestf"r v"lcan"es
MILES INTOXOURTRIP:0
IT'SA SHORT DRIVETO ETNA FROMCATANIAAIRPORTV1A
THE A18/E45 MOTORWAX,FOLLOWEDBX LOCALROADS
WESTTO THEVILLAGEOF ZAFFERANAETNEA.
Banks "f cl"ud are r"lling d"wn the
sl"pes "f M"unt Etna as Marc" Marcinn"
lurches his 4x4 "ff the m"untain r"ad
and clatters "n t" a r"ugh track, rutted and
g"uged by recent rains. S""n en"ugh, the
jeep judders t" a halt, and Marc" straps
"n his pack and jacket bef"re heading
al"ng a trail thr"ugh the trees.
'This is a side "f the m"untain m"st
visit"rs d"n't see,' he says, dressed in a
fleece b"dy warmer, st"ut walking b""ts
and designer shades. It's m"stly l"cal
hikers wh" c"me here. And ge"l"gists like
me "f c"urse — especially if Etna's decided
she's waking up.'
Bey"nd the treeline, a plain "f black r"ck
disappears int" the white cl"ud, like a
heap "f ash that's been dumped fr"m a
gigantic furnace. It's a barren landscape,
a desert "f magma and shattered b"ulders.
'We call this the Valle del B"ve,' Marc"
says. 'It's "ne "f the best places t" get an idea
"f just h"w devastating an erupti"n can be.
Y"u w"uldn't want t" be standing d"wn
there if the m"untain was in a bad m""d.'
L""ming 3,329 metres ab"ve the city "f
Catania "n the island's east c"ast, M"unt
Etna is Eur"pe's m"st active v"lcan". It's
y"ung in ge"l"gical terms, created ar"und
600,000 years ag", and by far the largest "f
Italy's three active v"lcan"es -m"re than
twice the height "f Vesuvius and three-anda-half
times the height "f Str"mb"li.
Thr"ugh"ut hist"ry, Etna has been
kn"wn f"r the vi"lence "f its erupti"ns:
in The Aeneid, the R"man p"et Virgil
describes the m"untain 'sh""ting "ut
gl"bes "f flame, with m"nster t"ngues/
That lick the stars'. Hundreds m"re
erupti"ns have since been rec"rded. The
m"st p"werful "f recent centuries were in
1669, when pyr"clastic fl"ws devastated
Catania, and 1928, when the village "f
Mascali was "bliterated in tw" days.
'Part "f the difficulty with Etna is her
unpredictability,'
n"tes Marc", as he
clambers ar"und the edge "f an extinct
caldera, "ne "f many that p"ckmark the
summit. 'Unlike s"me v"lcan"es, Etna is
c"nstantly devel"ping new craters: the
directi"n "f the magma fl"ws beneath the
m"untain are changing all the time, which
means it's alm"st imp"ssible t" predict
where the next erupti"n will happen.
That's why we call her A Muntagna,
the "Lady M"untain". She's m""dy!'
M"st "f the villages "n the sl"pes "f
Etna have had brushes with disaster: in
1971, a large erupti"n wiped "ut Etna's
cable car and "bservat"ry, and in 1992
the t"wn "f Zafferana came within a hair's
breadth "f incinerati"n.
'Unf"rtunately, n"-"ne can be sure
when the next big erupti"n will be,' Marc"
explains. 'It's alm"st certain that there
will be m"re in the future.' He l""ks
t"wards the t"p "f the m"untain, where
breaks in the cl"ud reveal glimpses "f the
sm"king summit. 'Until then, all we can
d" is watch,' he says, 'and wait.'
FURTHER INFORMATION
Etna M/ving /ffers half-day t/urs fr/m ar/und
£55 per pers/n (etnam/ving.c/m).
WHERETO EAT
In the centre /f Zafferana,M/ulin R/ugespecialises
in cudduruni-a f/lded, pan-fried pizzafilled with
/ni/ns,vegetable,meat and cheese(mainsfr/m £8;
Via Zafferana Mil/; 00 39 0957 082 424).
ab/ve Ge/l/gist Marc/ Marctnn/ stands /n
the eastern flank /f M/unt Etna, which is
p/ckmarked with craters: pyr/clastic fl/w can
expl/de fr/m fissures /n these L/wersl/pes
WHERETO STAX
Air/ne Wellness H/tel
Just/utside Zafferana,this /ld-fashi/ned
h/tel is perfect f/rgetting an early start /n
Etna.The best /f the simpler//ms have
balc/nies/ffering viewsall the way t/ the
c/ast (fr/m £75; h/tel-air/ne.it). —*-
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THE PERFECT TRIP
Sicily
W/rk /n the Chiesa
di San Michele began
ar/und 1700, but was
n/t c/mpleted f/r
a further 150 years
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©SCICLI
Bestf"r Bar"que
MILES INTOXOURTRIP: 100
HEADSOUTH FROMZAFFERANAETNAON THE
A18/E45MOTQRWAXVIACATANIAAND SXRACUSE,
THEN WESTON THE SS115
AND SP7STO SCICLI
'N"tice anything ab"ut this church?' asks
architectural guide Maria Marin", as she
str"lls acr"ss an empty square and p"ints
t"wards the "rnate fagade "f the Chiesa di
San Michele. It's early m"rning in Scicli's
"ld t"wn, and the "nly signs "f life are a few
pige"ns fluttering al"ng the pavements.
Ar"und the square, t"wnh"uses blush pink
in the m"rning light, and p""ls "f shad"w
linger between the buildings.
'L""k cl"sely. There's s"mething
missing,' she says, gesturing t"wards the
highest "f the church's three tiers. 'D" y"u
see? N" bell t"wer. The bells are built int"
the walls instead. It's the Bar"que versi"n
"f earthquake pr""fing.'
Dressed in black jeans and a crisp white
T-shirt, clutching a supply "f architectural
b""ks in her arms, she enters the nave "f the
church, her heels clacking "n the m"saic
fl""r. Inside, the transept is bathed in light
streaming thr"ugh high, arched wind"ws.
Murals and st"ne carvings c"ver the walls:
cherubs and saints, intricate filigree, laurels
twined ar"und c"lumns. Ab"ve the altar, an
altarpiece s"ars t" the r""f, glittering with
fresc"es and tracery. It feels m"re like an art
gallery than a church.
'Sicily's Bar"que architecture is all ab"ut
"stentati"n,* Maria says, as she cranes her
neck t"wards the r""f "f the nave. 'It was
a dem"nstrati"n "f wealth, p"wer and
prestige. It was imp"rtant f"r wealthy
families t" flaunt h"w rich they were by
building fabul"us h"uses f"r themselves,
but als" t" sh"w their gener"sity by
financing churches "r public buildings.'
Stepping int" the sunlight, she leads the
way al"ng Scicli's side streets. Sl"wly, the
t"wn is easing int" life: sh"p "wners sweep
the pavements with wicker br""ms, and
c"rner cafes fill with l"cals in search "f
their m"rning espress".
Bef"re l"ng, Maria st"ps beside an
elegant mansi"n, built fr"m the creamypink
l"cal st"ne. Family crests are carved
int" the fagade and wr"ught-ir"n balc"nies
curl ar"und the wind"ws, supp"rted by
gall"ping h"rses and winged drag"ns.
'This building bel"nged t" the
Beneventan"s, "ne "f Scicli's richest
families,' Maria says, running her hand
al"ng the r"se-c"l"ured st"ne. 'It reminds
me "f s"mething y"u'd see at the "pera.
In s"me ways, the wh"le "f Scicli is a kind
"f theatrical set. Only here, y"u d"n't have
t" pay f"r a ticket.'
Al"ng with M"dica, Ragusa and N"t",
Scicli is "ne "f eight t"wns in the Val di
N"t" regi"n "f s"utheast Sicily fam"us f"r
their Bar"que architecture. C"llectively
designated a W"rld Heritage site in 2002,
each was c"mpletely rebuilt f"ll"wing the
devastating earthquake "f 1693. The best
architects, artists and craftsmen were
empl"yed, at great expense, and the urban
landscape was transf"rmed with lavish
churches, mansi"ns and civic buildings.
"The architecture was ab"ut m"re than
just making buildings: it was ab"ut p"litics,
phil"s"phy and m"rality, t"",' muses
Maria. 'The Bar"que architects th"ught that
beauty c"uld actually create a happier and
m"re harm"ni"us s"ciety.'
With the sun creeping "ver Scicli's "ld
t"wn, Maria leads the way up a steep back
r"ad, winding past "ld chapels and gated
c"urtyards t" emerge "n a scrubby hillt"p.
Bel"w, Scicli's r""ft"ps sprawl int" the
distance, a lattice "f streets and squares
b"rdered by r"cky cliffs and "live gr"ves.
Am"ngst the buildings, the fagade "f the
Chiesa di San Bart"l"me" gl"ws g"ld in the
m"rning sunshine, and the clang "f church
bells rings acr"ss the quiet hills.
FURTHER INFORMATION
Valdi N/t/ (whc.unesc/./rg/en/list/10Z4).
WHERETO EAT
I Situated beside /ne /f the t/wn's prettiest
bridges, Osteria del P/nte is a family-run
tratt/ria
kn/wn f/r its antipasti and pizza (mains fr/m £6;
delp/ntescicli.c/m).
ABOVE FROMLEFTAfreSCO
awaits rest/rati/n; Maria Marin/
in the d//rway /f the Palazz/
Spadar/; the Chiesa di San
Bart/l/me/'s grandi/se ceiling
WHERETO
STAX
H/tel N/vecent/
In the heart /f Scicli's /ld quarter, this smart
h/tel l//ks like a t/wn h/use fr/m /utside,
but inside it's m/dern and minimalist.
R//ms
range in size but all have a s/phisticated feel,
and s/me have small pati/s. Rates are
especially reas/nable /utside summer
m/nths (fr/m £75; h/teL900.it). —»•
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1897 it became the ad"pted h"me "f Lady
Fl"rence Trevelyan (a distant c"usin "f
Queen Vict"ria), wh" b"ught up much
"f the c"astiine and created the t"wn's
b"tanical garden, m"delling it "n an
English landscaped park. Later. Ta"rmina
became a fav"urite haunt f"r painters,
writers and m"vie stars, s"me lured by its
n"t"ri"usly l"uche reputati"n: the writer
Har"ld Act"n fam"usly called the t"wn a
'p"lite syn"nym f"r S"d"m'.
Several decades later, the place still
retains an exclusive edge. Flashy b"utiques
and jewellery sh"ps line the main street "f
Via C"rs" Umbert" and, "n summer nights,
expensive yachts m""r ar"und the bay,
their deck lights twinkling in the darkness.
'Every"ne needs a little bit "f luxury
s"metimes," Stefan" says, as he carves a
curl "f "range peel int" an"ther martini,
surr"unded by shelves "f c"l"ured b"ttles
and crystal decanters. 'And that's what
Ta"rmina has always d"ne best.'
He places the drinks "n a silver tray
and glides "ut "n t" the sunlit terrace,
just as the tinkle "f a grand pian" strikes
up in the bar.
FURTHER INFORMATION
* Ta/rmina l/cals' guide (ta/rmina.it). l»l
Casa Cuseni (admissi/n free by
arrangement,
©TAORMINA
Bestf"r seaside
glam"ur
MILES INTO XOUR TRIP: Z1Z
TAORMINA ISACCESSED
FROMSOUTHERNSICILX
VIA THEA18/E45MOTORWAX.THE CITXSTREETS
ARENARROWAND PARKINGISSCARCE,SO IT MIGHT
BEBESTTO LEAVEXOURCARIN ONE OFTHE PUBLIC
CARPARKSON THEOUTSKIRTS.
It's a warm autumn day at Casa Cuseni,
high in the hills ab"ve Ta"rmina. Bees
and drag"nflies buzz thr"ugh the garden,
making the m"st "f the late summer
bl"ss"m. The villa's d""rs stand "pen, and
a few visit"rs mill ar"und the hallway,
wide-eyed at the artw"rks "n sh"w inside.
In "ne c"rner stands a 15th-century jade
figurine: in an"ther a chin"iserie dresser,
t"pped by a maj"lica vase and a clay discus
retrieved fr"m the ashes "f P"mpeii.
Paintings line the walls: a Frank Brangwyn
landscape in the dining r""m, a Picass"
sketch in the drawing r""m. Outside,
wisteria climbs the villa's Palladian
c"lumns, and bey"nd the gates, h"uses
march d"wn the hillside t" the I"nian Sea.
Built in 1905 by the British painter
R"bert Hawth"rn Kits"n, Casa Cuseni is
the finest "f many hillt"p villas erected in
Ta"rmina by expat emigres wh" arrived
here at the turn "f the century. Its guestb""k
reads like a wh"'s wh" "f 20th-century
culture: Bertrand Russell, Henry M""re.
Tennessee Williams and Picass" all stayed
here, while Greta Garb" liked it s" much
that she insisted "n having it entirely t"
herself when she visited.
'Ta"rmina has always been an exclusive
place,' explains Stefan" Chiavetta, head
barman at the Grand H"tel Time", the
t"wn's "ldest and smartest h"tel. 'We still
receive plenty "f fam"us guests, but these
days it's m"stly m"vie stars and celebrities,
n"t that many writers and painters.'
Dressed in a starched jacket and white
cravat, he mixes a Sicilian martini. Outside
"n the terrace, smartly dressed guests sit
d"wn f"r brunch and c"cktails, drinking in
the views "ver the h"tel's gardens, where
cypress trees stir in the m"rning breeze. In
the distance, tall h"uses line the cliff t"ps,
silh"uetted against the brilliant blue sea. It's
like a scene fr"m an F Sc"tt Fitzgerald n"vel.
Ta"rmina's hist"ry stretches back m"re
than 2,000 years. The Greeks were the first
t" arrive, bequeathing the spectacular
amp hi theatre, the largest in Sicily "utside
Syracuse. Later came the R"mans and the
Saracens, resp"nsible f"r c"nstructing
the hillt"p citadel.
During the late 19th and early 20th
centuries, Ta"rmina became syn"nym"us
with luxury, establishing itself as a p"pular
winter res"rt f"r Eur"pe's arist"cratic elite.
Tsar Nich"las II visited several times, and in
casacuseni.c/m).
* Grand H/tel Time/ (fr/m £520;
cl/sed N/v-Mar;
grandh/teltime/.c/m).
WHERETO EAT *
Tucked away /ff C/rs/ Umbert/,
R/ss/
Peper/ncin/ serves l/cal dishes Like cap/nata,
calamari and wh/le grilled fish (mains fr/m £12;
Via Sacrament/; 00 39 0942 625 150).
ABOVE LEFTA typical Ta/rmina backstreet
- many t/wnh/uses are h/liday h/mes,
with the t/wn's p/pulati/n greatly
reduced in the winter m/nths
WHERETO
STAX
H/tel Villa Angela
This smart hillt/p h/tel is /wned by
Simple Minds singer Jim Kerr, wh/ fell f/r
Ta/rmina during a t/ur in 1995, and still
spends much /f his time /n Sicily. R//ms
c/me with wr/ught-ir/n
furniture and
terraces with plunging hillside views. Like
many l/cal h/tels, it's cl/sed in winter
(fr/m £100; h/telviltaangela.c/m). —^
n