Piment d`Espelette
Transcription
Piment d`Espelette
Pi m e n t d ’ E s p e l e t t e E z p e l e ta k o B i p e r ra PA C K P R E S S PA C K ’E s p el et t e d t en im P u d t a ic d n y PRESS du S Cultivating taste in the Basque SUMMARY Piment d’Espelette : the only French spice with the AOC PDO marks p. 4 History : the Piment d’Espelette arrives by boat from Mexico p. 5 A unique area in the heart of the Basque Country: the place to find an exceptional spice p. 6 AOC PDO : the signs of excellence Press Contact Stéphanie Camazon, Press coordinator, Syndicat du Piment Tél. +33(0)5 59 93 88 86 - Crédit Photo DR : Syndicat de l’AOC Piment d’Espelette - JupiterImages Recettes : photos de Florence COUTAUD et réalisées par Vincent POUSSARD de l’AAPRA. 2 p. 7 From sowing the seeds to the finished product – all by hand p. 10 A community moving ahead p. 11 A partner-in-taste p. 14 Spicy ventures into the Basque Country p. 15 Press information on www.pimentdespelette.com I PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 Country A U P A Y S B A S Q U E L E G O Û T S E C U LT I V E PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 I 3 PIMENT D’ESPELETTE: THE ONLY FRENCH SPICE WITH THE AOC PDO MARKS PIMENT D’ESPELETTE : THE ONLY FRENCH SPICE WITH THE AOC PDO MARKS In December 1999, the national INAO committee gave official recognition to the name “Piment d’Espelette” or “Piment d’Espelette – Ezpeletako Biperra”. This recognition which took effect in June 2000 allowed the AOC mark to be utilised from the harvest in 2000 thus protecting the Piment d’Espelette : fresh, in cords and in powder form. Obtaining the AOC accreditation was the fruit of the efforts of many groups over a number of years, and was successful thanks to the motivation of the producers, those involved in the restaurant business and a close partnership with INAO, the Federation ARRAPITZ , MAAP (Mission Agro-Alimentaire Midi-Pyrénées) and various other groups notably in the village of Espelette, the county and the region. The AOC accreditation was reinforced in 2002 by the addition of a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) the official European sign of quality. This new award was officially ratified on 18 September 2008. Today the Piment d’Espelette has its place as the symbol of the region ; it is also recognized as an exceptional spice, both in France and overseas. HOW TO RECOGNIZE THE PIMENT D’ESPELETTE AOC PDO ! The distinctive AOC stamp in the traditional Basque colours : this is the definitive mark of quality ! Every product, cords and powder are obliged to carry this protected mark delivered by the Syndicate. DON’T BE TAKEN IN : only the chillies stamped with this logo are the real Piment d’Espelette AOC! 4 I PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 HISTORY : THE PIMENT D’ESPELETTE ARRIVES BY BOAT FROM MEXICO The Piment d’Espelette has its ancestors in Mexico. Its origins extend from Mexico in the north to the south of Bolivia and Brazil. Archaeological findings show that this chilli was known to the South American people as long ago as 7000 to 6000 BC. The sailors of Christopher Columbus set off in a westerly direction in search of India and their quest for a new spice route. They certainly discovered America and also a new spice, the chilli pepper. Enthused by the virtues of this new spice, for its flavours, its colour and its role as a preservative, they transported this new plant to other corners of the globe. Gonzalo de Percarteguy, a Basque sailor, introduced maize to the Nive Valley in 1523 ; did he also add some chillies into his cargo? By 1650 the chilli had started to be planted in Espelette. It was well adapted for the local climate, which was similar to that of its origins, and was cultivated in most of the farms in the region. Very quickly, it was used as a condiment and to preserve meat and ham. Over generations, the best seeds have been carefully selected, giving birth to the rustic variety Gorria, which today is universally called The Piment d’Espelette. (Gorria is the Basque word for red). If the Piment d’Espelette has its original history with women, being used nearly exclusively in the domestic kitchen, it has since diversified and has reached the public at large. Today, the Piment d’Espelette culture, the drying on the facades of the houses and its inescapable place in the kitchen serve to illustrate its deep roots in the heritage of the rural Basque region. In addition, this culture is reinforced by those involved in the AOC organisation, proud to share their roots and their passion for this spice. BOTANICAL GENEALOGY n Family : Solanacaea n Genus : Capsicum n Species : C. annuum The Piment d’Espelette is a local variety of Capsicum annuum which appears in official catalogues under the name ‘Gorria’. Chillies are distinguished from peppers by the secretion of capsaicin, the famous substance that gives chillies their ‘bite’. PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 I 5 A UNIQUE AREA IN THE HEART OF THE BASQUE COUNTRY : THE PLACE TO FIND AN EXCEPTIONAL SPICE “EVERY AREA IS BY NATURE UNIQUE AND CANNOT BE TRANSPOSED” It is at the heart of this privileged, natural environment that we find the Piment d’Espelette blossoming. With a landscape of hills and dales, near the ocean, the AOC zone enjoys a microclimate with gentle temperatures in summer, generous rainfall, and natural warm breezes which create this rugged terrain. In this subtropical ambience, the bio-climate encourages the growth and development of the Piment d’Espelette. Continuing the traditions and know-how, with its warm wet climate, the Piment d’Espelette territory is defined as an area which includes 10 villages : Souraide, Larressore, Ainhoa, Ustaritz, Itxassou, Halsou, Jatxou, Cambo-lesBains, Espelette and Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle. It is this geographical area that gives our spice its originality and its special qualities . . . MAP SHOWING THE 10 AREAS IN THE AOC PIMENT D’ESPELETTE ZONE PARIS BORDEAUX USTARITZ JATXOU LARRESSORE HALSOU BIARRIT TZ CAMBOSAINT-PÉE- SOURAÏDE LES-BAINS SUR-NIVELLE ESPELETTE AÏNHOA 6 I PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 ITXASSOU BAYONNE TOULOUSE AOC PDO : THE SIGNS OF EXCELLENCE KEY FACTS ABOUT THE AOC ACCREDITATION Three versions are allowed to apply the AOC mark : the powder, the cord and the fresh product (destined for transformation into other products). All batches of the powder must be systematically tasted and examined by a tasting panel of professionals and keen amateurs before being accredited with the appellation. PRODUCTION OF THE PIMENT D’ESPELETTE The growing region is limited to 10 villages, The growing areas are registered with the INAO, n Only one variety of chilli originating from the farmers’ own seed selection, n Cultivation is in fields in the fresh air with a planting density between 10 000 and 30 000 plants per hectare, n Harvested only by hand, picked when mature, in waves up to the first frost, n Irrigation is forbidden and the use of pesticides strictly regulated. n n Under 48 hrs from harvesting, the chillies are sorted, washed and either corded or prepared for drying before being transformed into powder. TRANSFORMATION INTO PIMENT D’ESPELETTE POWDER Drying naturally, in the fresh air for a minimum of 2 weeks, is essential for developing the flavours of the chilli ; this phase is followed by drying in ovens for several hours, n Each batch of powder is manufactured with only chillies from the same farm, n The powder contains only the Piment d’Espelette ; strictly no additives, colourings or preservatives, n The powder is prepared in a prescribed manner, packaged in sealed packs or little jars of specified weights. n TRANSFORMATION OF THE PIMENT D’ESPELETTE INTO CORDS n The fresh chillies are strung by hand ; they are corded by their stalks onto food quality string. REFERENCE TEXTS Decree n° 2008-986 18 September 2008 relating to the “Appellation d’origine contrôlee” « Piment d’Espelette » or « Piment d’Espelette-Ezpeletako Biperra » Regulation n°1495/2002 relating to the designation of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for the AOC Piment d’Espelette or « Piment d’Espelette-Ezpeletako Biperra (Official journal of The European Community 22 August 2002) PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 I 7 THE AOC IN FIGURES 1 - The 1st and only spice in France to be awarded AOC and AOP/PDO, n 10 – The AOC zone is limited to 10 villages in the west of the French Basque Country (Pyrénees Atlantique – 64), n 8 kg of fresh chillies are required to make 1kg of powder, n 20 – The minimum number of chillies needed to make a cord of Piment d’Espelette, n 35 – One fresh chilli weighs on average 35g, n 500 – The plant is an annual; one plant will produce on average 500g of fresh chillies, n 2002 – The year the Piment d’Espelette was recognized in Europe with an AOP/PDO. n PROCEDURES AND REGULATIONS THE PIMENT D’ESPELETTE COMMUNITY : WORKING TO ENSURE QUALITY AT EVERY LEVEL The Appellation d’Origine Controlée AOC characterises a community with a total commitment to ensuring quality. Since 2008, the Piment d’Espelette community has operated under the new regulations relating to the reform of the official quality signs. This nation reform, ensures more transparency relating to the quality signs, and has seen the evolution of the roles of the INAO, the syndicates and controlling organisations. The Piment d’Espelette community is singled out by our : n Control of the production process and control of the products before sale, n Internal and external controls: n External control is through an independent organisation, who verify the correct application of the regulations by the producers, and validate the application of the AOC to the products, the final step being the tasting, n Internal control is through the Syndicat du Piment d’Espelette, outlining the methods and conditions for production, and the undertaking of these by the producers. Guarantor for the AOC territory, the INAO verifies all the plots destined to produce AOC Piment d’Espelette. They can apply sanctions in cases where they find that the regulations are not being respected by the producers. Similarly, the INAO, acts on behalf of the Syndicate in protecting our Appellation in cases of fraud, abuse and misuse of the chillies’ reputation. 8 I PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 FOCUS ON : THE EXPERIENCE OF THE SENSES OR PRODUCT CONTROL The community defends to the hilt, the strict accreditation of the AOC for the Piment d’Espelette powder : 100% of the batches are rigorously scrutinised by the eye, the nose and by taste, by the tasting panel, composed of producers, tasting experts and knowledgeable amateurs. Using this method, the criteria by eye, the nose and the taste are verified using strict guidelines developed by the producers with the invaluable assistance of a team of chefs from top restaurants. Where batches from the same producer fail three times in one year, the producer loses his right to apply the AOC label to his product in that year. ANALYSIS : THE EXPERIENCE OF THE SENSE THE NOSE FRAGRANCE Aroma of “hay” (dried hay) Aroma of “fruit” (ripe tomatoes, red peppers . . .) Aroma of “grilling” (roasting, toasting . . .) IN THE MOUTH INTENSITY Medium FLAVOUR PROFILE Sweet Hint of bitterness SPICE PROFILE WITH THE EYE Sensation of heat Spiciness develops Flavour lingers MILLING HEAT INTENSITY COLOUR Medium Grain size < 5mm Orange I Orange/Red I Red I Russet PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 I 9 FROM SOWING THE SEEDS TO THE FINISHED PRODUCT – ALL BY HAND THE PIMENT D’ESPELETTE, FRUIT OF THE HARD WORK OF THE PRODUCERS n CHOICE OF SEEDS : Each producer selects seeds from the best of his chillies at harvest. This unique method of production based on the farmers’ own choice singles out our organization. n SOWING : Ideally, on St Joseph’s day in March the seeds are sown to germinate. The optimal temperature for germination is between 20° and 22°C. It takes around a fortnight for the seeds to reach the dicotyledonous stage. n PRICKING OUT : A few weeks after sowing, the seedlings are planted into small pots, this allows them to continue growing until planting out in the field. At this stage, the plants are kept in poly tunnels, protected from the cold. n n CULTIVATION : Thanks to the mild temperature and adequate rainfall, the plants develop and grow quickly, reaching a height of 1 metre by 15th July. In full growth, flowering continues until the first frost. n PLANTING OUT : While the seedlings are being raised, the earth will be repared: hay is laid down to prevent weeds. In May, with optimal conditions, the plants are transferred and planting out in the fields can take place. HARVEST : From August onwards, once they reach their full size the fruit quickly ripen to red. Harvesting starts now and continues through to 30th November, always by hand. As soon as they are harvested, the chillies are sorted and dried. TRANSFORMATION (INTO POWDER AND CORDS) PERPETUATING TRADITIONAL KNOW-HOW TRANSFORMATION Originally, the cords were strung up on south facing facades, the traditional way to dry the chillies. Today, the majority of producers dry the chillies laid out on racks in poly tunnels. The chillies dehydrate slowly allowing the flavours to develop. The drying process is completed in an oven after which they are ground and reduced to powder. The chillies can be used in their fresh form included in other products but in these cases the AOC mark cannot be applied. Examples of other products are : purée, jellies, sauces and they are used in numerous culinary preparations… PRODUCTION METHODS WHICH RESPECT THE ENVIRONMENT Cultivation of the Piment d’Espelette is closely linked to nature : orientation of the fields, altitude and climate. Cultivation occurs in small south facing, sunny, fields or plots, the plots are all within the 10 communes of the appellation area. Cultivating the chillies requires minimal treatment. They require very little water and irrigation is regulated. 10 I PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 THE COMMUNITY MOVES AHEAD THE COMMUNITY IS DYNAMIC BUT WITH A HUMAN SIDE With around 30 producers in 1997, by 2009 there were 128 producers and 16 companies handling transformation and production. The Piment d’Espelette community is characterised by dynamism rare in the agricultural world! EVOLUTION OF PRODUCTION SINCE 2000 140 Number of plants 128 Number of producers Quantity of powder in tons Number of plants 120 2 000 000 103 100 98 85 89 1 500 000 90 87 86 80 This dynamism is doubtless linked to the diversity of the community itself; diversity among the producers, a veritable mosaic of age, sex and origin . . . but also diversity in the volume of production with a factor of 50 between the volume of the smallest and largest growers. 68,6 65 60 1 000 000 61,1 60 54 49 52,6 40 31 33 2002/03 2003/04 32 500 000 22,5 20 16,2 0 0 2000/01 2001/02 2004/05 2005/06 2006/07 2007/08 2008/09 2009/10 Year of Production (from 1st May N to 30th April N+1) In the context of an aging agricultural population, it is important to introduce new producers, who are often young, in order to ensure the future of the community. The Piment d’Espelette has important local impact, in maintaining small family businesses and creating employment, there is an effect at the local level, notably providing a tourist trade. The Piment d’Espelette has become the symbol of the Basque Country. It contributes to the vitality of the rural Basque Country. SOME KEY FIGURES IN 2009 n n n Number of producers : 128, Number of plants planted : 2 200 000 plants, Surface area used for production : 113 hectares, n n Estimated production in 2009 : 95 tons of powder, Average yield : 500g / plant. THE MARKETS TO PROMOTE THE PIMENT D’ESPELETTE Each member of the community is responsible for their own commercial activity. Producers are encouraged to sell direct if possible, to the public, to specialist shops, to restaurants, to keep the supply chain as short as possible. Certain producers are also linked to other quality product groups: organic growers or the association of Basque farmers. A further factor in the dynamism of the community is the development of sales in France and overseas. The sales operation is based in the Basque Country but the AOC mark creates a demand among many specialist outlets : those selling spices or regional products, fine restaurants, wholesalers and food producers. Due to its expanding notoriety, the Piment d’Espelette experiences a new demand in the export market, from culinary professionals in Europe, Canada and the USA as well as Japan and Asia. PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 I 11 A COMMUNITY COMMITTED TO SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT THE PRACTICAL ASPECTS OF PRODUCTION Since 2005, the Syndicate has worked with a group which encourages organic agriculture in the Basque Country and globally works to support methods that respect the environment. Over 4 years, the producers have been exposed to a more global vision of the links between production and the land. THEIR ACTIONS ARE AT AN INTERNATIONAL LEVEL… BUT ALSO LOCALLY Since its creation, the Piment d’Espelette community, including men and women, has become a community with a heart. Sharing and equality are the cornerstones of the beliefs and values of this group that cements the community and its activities. COOPERATION WITH AGRICULTURAL GROUPS IN CAMBODIA AND BRAZIL “LES RÉCOLTES DU CŒUR” The fame of the Piment d’Espelette is worldwide: in its success in supporting the agricultural fabric locally, in creating an economy surrounding the product, it is seen as a leading light setting an example for other producers, notably those in countries where they are starting out on the road to developing their own quality products. This is how the partnership has come to be with the pepper producers of Kampot in Cambodia and the Inhapim Taro producers of Brazil, establishing a geographical identity for certain specific products. These partners are supported by the Regional Authorities of Aquitaine and under the auspices of international cooperation, there are regular exchanges : visits and expertise. Over and above the solidarity between the producers, dedicating time to support activities and development in this way reinforces the protection of our AOC status as well as other products under other international marks of quality. Initially organised by the youth of the Chamber of Economics in Bayonne, this group has met annually since 2007, organised by the Syndicat du Piment d’Espelette as a meeting for solidarity in action. 12 I PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 THE SYNDICATE OF THE AOC : PROJECTS FOR COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT The Syndicate brings together all the growers, producers and product manufacturers of the Piment d’Espelette, 144 members for the production programme in 2009 – 2010. Created in 1993 by the passionate producers, it has developed into a more formal management role for the Piment d’Espelette. n In 2000, with the recognition of the AOC, n In 2002, with the recognition of the AOP/PDO, n In 2007, under the sole banner for the defence and management of the AOC for the Piment d’Espelette, by the INAO. In addition to its role in promoting the publicity, quality, and, defence and management of the AOC, the Syndicate also has a role as spokesperson and link between the producers and their institutional and commercial partners. Its management committee, composed of producers, decides on the development projects to be put in place and undertaken by the group and its employees. Since June 2009, the Syndicate has been headed by Madame Martine Damois, a producer in Cambo-les-Bains. The Piment d’Espelette community has a wealth of over 80 active volunteers, who take part in the tasting panels for the AOC as well as working on other projects giving the Piment d’Espelette an impressive shop window… THE ACTIVITIES OF THE SYNDICATE : n Regulations and controls pertaining to the AOC mark, n Judicial protection of the AOC mark, in partnership with the INOA and the DGCCRF, n Communications and spreading the fame, n Ensuring the quality of the products by applying good practices at the producer level, and maintaining quality and hygiene standards, n Political representation for the AOC mark. THE SYNDICATE’S RESOURCES 75% of income comes from producers’ subscriptions, determined as a function of their volume, n n 25% from grants at local, national and international levels. PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 I 13 A PARTNER-IN-TASTE FOR EVERYDAY COOKING OR GOURMET CUISINE, THE PIMENT D’ESPELETTE IS A PARTNER-IN-TASTE The emblem of the Basque Country, the Piment d’Espelette, is always welcome at our dining table. Its subtle and refined aromas add a sublime ingredient whether a simple dish or something more refined. Without being aggressive, its heat develops progressively allowing the flavours to evolve and to highlight its specific aromas. ONCE CORDED, the chillies, fresh or dry can be used as a condiment, as fine shreds they can be used, in sauces, omelettes, or in soups, stews or stock. IN POWDER FORM, the Piment d’Espelette can accompany any meal, particularly meat and vegetables, fish and seafood. A flavour that lingers, the Piment gives character to a gastronomic dish and goes just as well with a traditional dish as with a new recipe. BEING MORE ORIGINAL, the Piment harmonises well with desserts, fresh or puréed fruits, and with chocolate ! Elsewhere, well known chocolate makers have created elaborate and delicious specialities by including the Piment d’Espelette. AS A DECORATION, the Piment spices up the creative talents of any chef. With its warm colours, the milled powder, brightens and decorates any dish. This top quality product without any additives or preservatives is a delicate spice : n Advice on storage : Store away from light and in cool, dry conditions. n Advice on use : Season your dishes with Piment d’Espelette, at the end of the cooking time rather than at the start, to preserve its aromas. TOP CHEFS AND PIMENT D’ESPELETTE, NEW RECIPES ARE BEING ADDED . . . Over many years, the AOC community has developed good relationships, with Basque chefs, proud of their traditions, as well as links with chefs from famous restaurants in the rest of France. Inspired, these chefs concoct new dishes every year, based on this exceptional spice, searching for new and original combinations and flavours, these recipes are available to everyone. The Piment can marry with a whole raft of dishes from sophisticated and festive, to simple and everyday fare, from starters to desserts. A wide palette there to be tried without moderation! From 2010, new recipes with advice and tips will be available on our AOC website, www.pimentdespelette.com TO CELEBRATE OUR 10TH BIRTHDAY, DURING THE SUMMER OF 2010, the Syndicat du Piment d’Espelette website has launched a competition for amateur chefs. A panel composed of producers, chefs and users will chose the winner from those who post their recipe on the website or in the producers’ visitor centre in Espelette. Winners recipes will appear on the web site. 14 I PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 VENTURES INTO PIMENT D’ESPELETTE TERRITORY : A SPICY, GOURMET VOYAGE INTO THE BASQUE COUNTRY IN THE VISITOR CENTRE, FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE PIMENT D’ESPELETTE. THE PIMENT FESTIVAL – TO CELEBRATE THE END OF THE HARVEST During the summer, stop by the AOC visitor centre situated in the village of Espelette, here you will meet some of our producers, proud to share their passion, as wells as chefs and friends of the Piment, all just as passionate, you will learn to taste and appreciate the Piment d’Espelette AOC. Originating in the 60s, and organised by the guild of the Piment d’Espelette, the festival takes place every year during the last week end of October. It attracts dense crowds who enjoy the atmosphere in the village streets. Sunday morning starts with mass celebrating the Piment harvest for that year, and is followed by a ceremony during which a new guild member is appointed. After taking and swallowing a pinch of Piment, this new member of the guild takes an oath to defend to the hilt, the Piment d’Espelette. RESTAURANTS IN PARTNERSHIP WITH THE PIMENT D’ESPELETTE THE PRODUCERS OPEN THEIR DOORS, COME AND VISIT Restaurant chefs from all four corners of the France send us their Piment d’Espelette recipes. For more information contact the Syndicate. To discover them, visit our website www.pimentdespelette.com. GLOSSARY : AOC : Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée AOP PDO : Appellation d’Origine Protégée, Protected Designation of Origin DGCCRF : Direction Générale de la Concurrence, de la Consommation et de la Répression des Fraudes, a government body to prevent and investigate consumer fraud Federation Arrapitz : In 1991 a local federation was formed to ensure the quality and global development of the product INAO : Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité : a national body to control origin and quality MAAP : Mission Agro-Alimentaire Midi-Pyrénées, an organisation at a regional level to support agricultural or food companies in adding value to their products PRESS PACK PIMENT D’ESPELETTE 2010 I 15 le Syndicat de l’AOC Piment d’Espelette Maison Napurrak, 455 Irazabaleko bidea F - 64250 Espelette Tel. +33 (0)5 59 93 88 86 - Fax +33 (0)5 59 93 88 92 [email protected] www.pimentdespelette.com - Crédit Photo DR : Syndicat de l’AOC Piment d’Espelette. For further information contact :