COSTA RICA

COCO ECO | ECO CHIC GUIDE
ECO CHIC RESORT
Costa Rica
WRITTEN by: Johanna Björk, Goodlifer.com
Costa Rica has emerged as the prime eco-tourism destination in Central
America, due to the country’s extensive system of national parks and
nature reserves. In Costa Rica you can find both the most biodiverse
place on the planet as well as the world’s happiest people. Pura Vida,
which means something like pure life, is the country’s unofficial slogan
and is used everywhere as a greeting. An early pioneer of sustainable
travel, Costa Rica is home to some of the world’s top ecologically
conscious hotels and resorts — all working toward preserving the
gorgeous nature that keeps drawing visitors here year after year. This is
a country that truly understands the meaning of the word sustainability.
When planning a visit it’s important to know that Costa Rica has two distinct seasons
— the dry season runs from late December to mid-April and is the best time to visit.
During the green, or rainy, season the landscape grows rich and lush but some
places become inaccessible because roads are wiped out by flooding.
I visited for two weeks at the beginning of March, and decided to split my time
there between the Osa Peninsula in the southwest, home to Corcovado National
Park — home to more species per square meter than any other place on the planet;
Montezuma, a small bohemian village nestled between the ocean and the sea and
near a spectacular waterfall swimming hole; and the Mal Pais area on the Nicoya
Peninsula, a popular destination for surfers and the international gypset.
When visiting Costa Rica, one can truly leave all stress and work-related worry
behind to just relax and live in the present.
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| COCO ECO MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2012 Montezuma is a tiny one-street fishing village
on the eastern side of the Nicoya Peninsula.
www.cocoecomag.com
COCO ECO | ECO CHIC GUIDE
OSA PENINSULA
Pura Vida, which
means something
like pure life, is the
country’s unofficial
slogan and is
used everywhere
as a greeting.
Cabins at El Remanso Eco Lodge are beautifully
nestled into the landscape. Most of them were built
using fallen wood from the property and are equipped
with hammocks.
The patio offers ample space for relaxation,
with a view of the rainforest canopy below.
Fresh fruit is always on offer, some of it picked in
the property.
El Remanso
Photo Provided by Visit London Images
The currents in the ocean are very strong here,
but you can swim in a beautiful lagoon or
naturally forming tide pools.
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Located at the southwest Pacific side of the Osa Peninsula, El Remanso is an eco-lodge with a capacity
of thirty-five people. The resort is situated on a spectacular piece of land, acquired by a Spanish
Greenpeace activist couple back in the 80s, and is now run by their daughter and her husband.
Thanks to solar panels and hydropower generated from on-site waterfalls and streams, the entire
resort is completely off the grid. Fresh water springs on the property also provide water and many of
the structures are built from wood that was cleared when the resort was built (the rest is certified fallen
wood, sourced locally from the Osa Peninsula). The cabins are all beautifully nestled into the pristine
rainforest setting, on top of a hill that slopes down toward the beach, which means you have a full
view of the canopy. There are no doors, just large sliding screens that you may or may not want to
leave open during the night. The sounds of the rainforest wildlife entice you to go for a hike on one of
the many trails, some of which lead you to spectacular waterfalls. Seasoned guides are available on
the property, and will take you to see many different species of monkeys, exotic birds like toucans and
scarlet macaw, blue morpho butterflies, golden orb spiders, and maybe a sloth, puma or ocelot — this
is, after all, one of the world’s most pristine and biodiverse rainforests. Once the sun sets (a beautiful
explosion of yellows and oranges, seen perfectly from our porch, through a natural clearing among
the trees), the sounds all completely change and cicadas, frogs and howler monkeys will lull you to
sleep. Hike along a trail down the hill and you will come to a gorgeous secluded beach, where you
can walk for hours without seeing another person. The currents in the ocean are very strong here, but
you can swim in tide pools or a beautiful lagoon. All meals (which are included in the price of a room)
are prepared on site, using local produce, and served in a bamboo structure with great views of the
forest canyon. There was always at least one vegetarian choice, and the warm and friendly staff were
more than happy to accommodate special diets. Over 80% of the resort’s total waste (not just food)
is composted.
| COCO ECO MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2012 elremanso.com
www.cocoecomag.com
Built using fallen wood from the
property, many of the cabins are
equipped with hammocks.
Take a short hike down the hill and you end up at a
gorgeous, pristine beach.
All meals are prepared on site and included in the
price of your stay. Ingredients are sourced locally
whenever possible.
COCO ECO | ECO CHIC GUIDE
MONTEZUMA
Nature Lodge
STAY
Most people who come to Montezuma will stay in a hostel right in
town, but if you want to get away from it all and indulge in some
serenity, Nature Lodge is the perfect choice. Perched on a hill, a five to
ten minute ride from the town, this small, charming hotel is an oasis of
tranquility — a perfect place to relax. Formerly a horse ranch, Nature
Lodge is still known by the locals as Finca Los Caballos, something
that is good to keep in mind when giving directions to taxi drivers.
Horseback riding excursions through the nature reserve are offered
every day and can be tailored to fit any need. There is a wellness
spa that offers massages, facials and other beauty treatments, but
for many simply laying by the blue pool adorned with a lotus flower,
buddha statue and amazing view of the treetops below may provide
enough serenity and peace of mind. A healthy breakfast, featuring lots
of fresh fruit, is included in the price. Lunch and dinner are available
by reservation.
naturelodge.net
Up the road from the center of Montezuma, Nature
Lodge is a relaxing oasis of peace and calm.
El Sano Banano
EAT
This restaurant and hotel in the heart of Montezuma is affiliated with
the high-end Ylang Ylang Beach Resort located a few minutes down
the beach. Prices are at U.S. levels, but you’ll find a large menu with
many vegetarian and vegan options that are clearly labeled. There are
traditional Costa Rican dishes as well as Mexican and Asian-inspired
ones. I opted for a plate of vegan summer rolls, which turned out to be
everyone at the table’s favorite thing. There are also plenty of delicious
juices, smoothies, teas and lemonades to cool you down. There is
outdoor seating in the back or on the front porch. The portions are
huge and suitable for sharing — after we couldn’t finish our meal, the
server fed the leftovers to a homeless dog that the restaurant owners
had decided to take care of.
ylangylangbeachresort.com/el-sanobanano-village-hotel
A short easy hike from Montezuma, this waterfall and
swimming hole is worth a visit.
Vegan summer rolls at El Sano Banano in Montezuma.
Sunsets in Costa Rica are truly amazing. Make a point to sit
down and watch it every day.
SHOP
One does not visit Costa Rica for the shopping, and I would not recommend
wasting your time in this beautiful country by visiting a shopping mall. You can
find great locally made jewelry and crafts, especially in Montezuma, where
independent vendors have set up tables all along the street. Gorgeously
colored hammocks are everywhere in Costa Rica, and once you’ve found
bliss rocking slowly from side to side in one of these you’ll definitely want to
bring one home. Study the labels to make sure you find one that is actually
made locally.
INDULGE
Most hotels and resorts in Costa Rica offer massages and spa services. Prices
are pretty much the same as in the U.S. but, for the sake of relaxation and
rejuvenation, it’s totally worth indulging.
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| COCO ECO MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2012 Handcrafted jewelry and colorful hammocks
can be found in most beach towns and
make for great souvenirs and gifts.
www.cocoecomag.com
“Whiteface” monkeys are a common sight along
hiking trails and roads. They’re cute but don’t
smile, they see teeth as a sign of aggression.
Friendly lizard on the Osa Peninsula.
A female golden orb spider.
COCO ECO | ECO CHIC GUIDE
Santa Teresa/Mal Pais
Disfrutalo Ranchos y Villas
STAY
The Mal Pais area is very laid-back when it comes to accommodations
— it’s all about simple bungalows. Disfrutalo is a new resort that
includes 4 bungalows and 4 villas, all built from local teak wood.
Even though it’s located right off the main (dirt) road in Santa Teresa,
the lush vegetation makes it seem more like it would be in the middle
of the rainforest. The beach is only about 250 feet away, literally on
the other side of the street. The villas and bungalows are all equipped
with kitchens, so you could cook a meal — or make great tropical
fruit smoothies — at home if you wanted. Outdoor showers and
hammocks on the patio make it very difficult to do anything but relax
here, but if you want to enjoy the nightlife all you have do to is take a
ten-minute walk along the main road and you’re there.
disfrutaloresort.com
Costa Rica has emerged
as the prime eco-tourism
destination in Central
America, much due to
the country’s extensive
system of national parks
and nature reserves.
Disfrutalo Ranchos y Villas offers private bungalows with fully
equipped kitchens, perfect for small groups of travelers.
Photo courtesy of Disfrutalo Ranchos y Villas.
Latitude 10
STAY
A bit further north in Santa Teresa is Latitude 10, a private beach
retreat suitable for those who like a higher level of luxury. Small private
casitas are arranged beautifully in the property so that you can enjoy
a feeling of privacy with the full service of a hotel. Built on natural
gardens, the resort was created around the principles of sustainability
and protection of the surrounding wildlife and nature. No trees were
cut down to build Latitude 10 and hotel guides will happily walk
you through the hotel’s sustainable initiatives if you are interested in
hearing more. Borrow one of the complimentary bikes, and you can
get to Santa Teresa in minutes. During the dry season, the roads here
get very dusty so it may be a good idea to tie a scarf over your mouth
to avoid breathing in that road dust.
latitude10resort.com
Located a bit north of Santa Teresa, Latitude 10 offers
undisturbed laid-back eco-luxury. Photo courtesy of Cayuga
Sustainable Hospitality
Tranquilo Backpackers
Once the sun sets, the restaurant opens, offering DIY
BBQ and a large salad buffet.
Vista de Olas - Mal Pais
If you want to experience a spectacular sunset followed by an equally spectacular meal, this is the place. Vista de Olas
is a hotel and restaurant, perched on top of a peaceful hill. From the infinity pool you can enjoy sweeping views of Mal
Pais, Playa Carmen, Santa Teresa, Hermosa, and beyond, all while sipping a cocktail. Once the sun has set the restaurant
opens, offering the best BBQ in the area. You choose your meat or fish — some of them locally sourced — and prepare
it yourself on one of the big grills. Vegetarians need not despair, as the salad bar is fully stocked and highly satisfying.
vistadeolas.com
STAY
If you are traveling on a serious budget the good news is that hostels
can be found almost everywhere in Costa Rica, and they are very
affordable. Tranquilo is nestled in the heart of Santa Teresa, one
block from the beach. The rooms are situated along hammock-lined
balconies and are surprisingly clean. There are your classic dorms
for $11 per night but, if sleeping with strangers is just not your thing,
doubles with private bathrooms are $35 per night — a great deal in
the Mal Pais area. If you are not in your late twenties to early thirties
chances are you will be the oldest person on the property besides
the nightly security guard, but that’s fine. There is a strict silence
policy that takes effect at 11pm, so you won’t be kept away by rowdy
backpackers, unless you want to be, that is.
Brisas del Mar Playa Carmen/Mal Pais
Widely known as the best restaurant in the Mal Pais area, Brisas del Mar is
situated (surprise!) at the top of a hill, giving dining patrons a spectacular
view of the surf breaks below. Coming here to watch the sunset is a great
idea, but be sure to make a reservation or arrive early to ensure a spot. The
menu changes daily and is presented on blackboards that servers move from
table to table. The food is homemade and fresh, with a focus on International
cuisine. Cocktails are made with fresh fruits and juices and are served in small
or large pitchers, depending on what kind of mood you are in. No matter
what, you will not want to leave this gorgeous setting, and you actually don’t
have to since there are hotel rooms — belonging to Hotel Buenos Aires —
right above the restaurant.
tranquilobackpackers.com
For the budget-conscious traveler, Tranquilo Backpackers
offers affordable private rooms in the heart of Santa Teresa.
The infinity pool at Vista de Olas offers the most
spectacular of the beaches of Mal Pais below.
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| COCO ECO MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2012 www.cocoecomag.com
The menu at Brisas del Mar changes daily and is
presented on large chalkboards.
buenosairesmalpais.com
COCO ECO | ECO CHIC GUIDE
GET ACTIVE
Costa Rica offers some of the best bird watching in the world,
with opportunities to see exotic birds like toucans up close.
Photo courtesy of El Remanso.
Bird Watching
You may not think of bird watching as an active pursuit, but tell that to those who
are up before dawn every day, hiking deep into the rainforest just to catch that
one magic glimpse of a rare bird. For many, bird watching is the main reason
to visit Costa Rica, because there is such a rich diversity of different species.
While you are here, why not give it a try? Most resorts and nature preserves have
seasoned guides that can help you discover the beauty hiding up there in the
canopy.
Because of the warm waters and consistent waves,
Costa Rica is a great place to learn surfing.
Surfing
The second thing that really put Costa Rica on the tourist map is
surfing. The water is warm and although you can find some really
great breaks here it never gets crowded. If you’re really serious about
learning, there are many surf camps in the Mal Pais area. You can
also rent a board or take an hourly lesson. I got my very first surf
lesson from Jobbie, a Canadian surfer and bon vivant who runs
Jobbie’s Longboards in Mal Pais and also has surf and yoga camps.
Although it was harder than I thought, I managed to stand up on my,
like, third try.
Yoga
Casa Zen in Santa Teresa offers daily Vinyasa Flow classes.
surfjobbie.com
Yoga retreats are plentiful around Costa Rica, but if you are in
Mal Pais and just want to take one or a few classes during your
vacation, Casa Zen in Santa Teresa offers daily classes at 9am and
(during high season) also at 2pm. The Hatha-inspired, Vinyasa Flow
class is held on the second floor balcony, with a refreshing ocean
breeze flowing through, further opening your senses. The seasoned
instructors ensure that the practice is rewarding to both beginners
and more advanced students. Mats are provided, but bring a bottle
of water to hydrate.
| COCO ECO MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2012 Horseback riding on the beach in Montezuma
Canopy Tours
Horseback Riding
Wherever there is a tree canopy in Costa Rica you can find canopy tours,
which is basically a series of zip lines that enable you to glide through the
rainforest jungle and observe wildlife right next to you in the canopy and
far below. Canopy del Pacifico’s zipline course is located right outside Mal
Pais, right at the entrance of the Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve, the oldest
protected area in Costa Rica. The canopy ride has 9 cables — the longest
one a thousand feet long — and 11 platforms, between 17 to 80 feet high,
set high in the gigantic trees. It’s a fun, adrenaline-filled experience you will
not forget.
Most well-traveled destinations in Costa Rica offer horseback riding
adventures. In Montezuma, El Pinto Horseback Riding Expeditions will take
you on a four-hour tour through seven beautiful beaches and shady jungle
trails, ending up at a waterfall where you can take a dip in the freshwater
river pool below the falls. No previous riding experience is necessary and
start times of tours are dependent on the tides and season. The guide,
Marvin, speaks English (which is good for beginners) and has a lifetime of
experience with horses and Costa Rican nature.
canopydelpacifico.com
zencostarica.com
In Costa Rica you can find both the most
biodiverse place on the planet as well as the
world’s happiest people.
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Experiencing the rainforest from above, while gliding
through the canopy on a zipline.
www.cocoecomag.com
elpintoexpeditions.weebly.com
An early pioneer of sustainable travel,
Costa Rica is home to some of the world’s top
ecologically conscious hotels and resorts — all
working toward preserving the gorgeous nature
that keeps drawing visitors here year after year.
COCO ECO | ECO CHIC GUIDE
GET AROUND
BY Bus
Costa Rica has the best bus system in Central America, and it’s by far the cheapest way
to travel. Tickets should be reserved in advance, especially during the high season. The
downside to traveling by bus is that it takes a long time, because of the bad condition
of the roads and the frequent stops made. Interbus and Grayline are the two largest bus
companies and both offset 100% of their carbon emissions.
interbusonline.com & graylinecostarica.com
By Domestic Air
There is so much to do in Costa Rica, and if you are short on time it’s definitely worth
taking a domestic flight to save time. There are two main airlines — Sansa and Nature Air
— both have daily flights to most parts of the country and offset all their carbon emissions
making donations to rainforest preservation efforts.
flysansa.com & natureair.com
By Boat
To get to the Nicoya Peninsula, the best way is to take a daily speedboat from Herradura
Beach, just north of Jaco. It departs every day at 10:45 and costs $40 per person. It can
be a rough ride, so if you’re prone to seasickness, take a pill or make sure to stare at the
horizon the entire way.
zumatours.net
By Car
Renting a car is a possibility, but one thing to keep in mind is that the roads are dusty,
unpaved and in pretty bad condition in most places. Four-wheel drive is needed to go
many places and you may have to traverse some streams to get where you are going. Most
major American car rental agencies serve Costa Rica.
By Taxi
Taxis in Costa Rica are red and have a triangular yellow mark on the side or the top. They
can be found in most places and are a great alternative to renting a car. Just avoid the Taxi
Piratas, and make sure you agree on the fare beforehand.
The Osa Peninsula has miles of pristine beaches,
nestled between blue ocean and vibrant rainforest.
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| COCO ECO MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2012 www.cocoecomag.com
Free-range dogs are a common sight in Costa Rica. This does
not mean that they are homeless, people here just take a
more relaxed approach with their pets.