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Contents Olga & Olga – the filmmakers Sommerová and ·pátová speak about gentlemen and feminism pages 4 – 7 Women and Editorials Women Tractor-drivers and Lady Soldiers – the “equality” of women under Communism pages 8 – 11 Strange Girl – Iva Bittová has conquered the world’s stages with her violin playing and beautiful singing pages 12 – 15 Top Models with Big Hearts – profiles of Czech supermodels who show us that beauty is more than skin deep pages 16 – 19 Airy Beauty – the ancient art of lace making where art is transformed into the everyday pages 20 – 21 I promised that I would write an editorial on the topic of “Woman as inspiration” and so I posed the question to myself: What would remain of literature if its inspiration and space for imagination was not a woman? The answer is very little, almost nothing. Poetry wouldn’t exist, the novel would disappear and dramas wouldn’t be dramatic. The only literary genre to survive would be the editorial. Sigh. The famous Czech writer Karel âapek wrote in 1935: “I’ve never met a woman or girl who enjoys reading newspaper editorials.” Since that time, much has changed – almost everything in fact. However, even in this day and age, I don’t know a single man who knows a girl or woman who enjoys reading newspaper editorials. So I will focus this editorial on the men in the audience. Men! We must admit that not only do we search for a woman behind every thing, we find her behind every thing. Cherchez la femme – is a phrase as valid for life in the same way that “the murderer was the gardener” is true for a mystery. Gentlemen, do you really believe that the first flint tools were made by some Neanderthal as a weapon so that he could kill a woolly mammoth? I don’t. Looking at myself, I’d say that he made this earthshaking invention so that even during the Ice Age he could bask in the glow of an appreciative Mrs Neanderthal. It was only thanks to the fact that she got his blood boiling and kept the fires roaring in the cave that he was able to conquer Nature. He certainly would have understood that “a woman is a reflection of all of Nature’s beauty concentrated in one being”, although he may not have been able to express the idea as well as Charles Baudelaire in a woman’s boudoir. So what about us men? Unfortunately, I’ve not been able to come up with a satisfactory literary definition. We’ll have to wait. We’ll probably have to wait until this magazine chooses “Men as inspiration” as its theme and a woman is invited to write the editorial to that issue – an editorial that both women and girls will gladly read. Sigh. Tinity & Blanka – Blanka Matragi is the fixed star and SoÀa Hlaváãková the rising star of Czech fashion design pages 22 – 25 The Muses of Photogenie – women as the glorified object of photographic portrait pages 26 – 29 Eva Fuka: “It’s my world.” – reflections of this Czech photographer who emigrated to the United States pages 30 – 33 Mosaic – news and information from the Czech Republic pages 34 – 35 Vítûzslava Kaprálová – a shooting star in Czech classical music pages 36 – 38 The Heart of Europe appears six times a year and presents a picture of life in the Czech Republic. The views expressed in the articles are those of their authors and do not necessarily represent the official positions of the Czech government. Material appearing in the magazine cannot be reprinted without the permission of the publisher. Subscription orders should be sent to the editorial office of the magazine. Publisher, in cooperation with the Foreign Ministry of the Czech Republic, Theo Publishing. Editorial office: J. Poppera 18, 530 06 Pardubice, Czech Republic Editor-in-chief: Pavel ·míd, Art editor: Karel Nedvûd Chairman of the Editorial Board: Vít Koláfi, Director of the Press Section of the Czech Ministry of Foreign Affairs and spokesman for the Minister of Foreign Affairs Members of the Editorial Board: Vûra StaÀková, Marie Kopecká, Libu‰e Bautzová, Silvie Marková, Pavla Jedliãková, Alena Prouzová, Lucie Pilipová, Eva Ocisková, Milan KníÏák, TomበPojar, Vít Kurfürst, Oldfiich TÛma, Martin Krafl, Petr Vágner, Vladimír Hulec, Petr Volf, Jan ·ilpoch, Pavel Fischer Translation by members of the Department of English and American Studies, Faculty of Arts, Masaryk University, Brno Lithography and print by VâT Pardubice ISSN 1210–7727 Pavel ·rut Poet and translator Internet: http://www.theo.cz Publisher’s e-mail:[email protected] 3 Olga & Olga Both wore black, the two Olgas both filmmakers. They had the same hairstyle – a style that was trendy back in the era of Brigitte Bardot: one was blonde and the other brunette. They spoke in a similar husky voice that comes across as sexy and at the same time a bit seedy. Their age difference is 35 years. During the interview they sometimes quarreled, needling each other in a friendly way, but flattering one another, too. Remarkable documentary filmmaker and outspoken feminist Olga Sommerová (56) and her daughter, camerawoman and director Olga ·pátová (her father is documentary filmmaker Jan ·páta), have made three films together in the last year. Two of them, (Ne)censurované rozhovory ((Un)censored Conversations), and Moje 20. století (My 20th Century) about painter Adriena ·imotová, opera singer SoÀa âervená and writer Lenka Reinerová, were shown on Czech Television to excellent reviews from local audiences. 4 Sommerová: One film we directed half and half, in the second I was the victim of Olga, who was the director, and for the third one I took her on as a camerawoman. Of course what my children Olga and Jakub get away with, no one else would dare, because I would never hire them again. And what do they dare to do? THE PROFESSION Sommerová: Jakub refuses to film a cut I want, or he lectures me disrespectfully to the point where I feel like a student. With Olga behind the camera it’s easier. But it’s happened a few times that she’s gotten uppity with me. ·pátová: Mom gets really impatient during filming when I take my time composing a shot. With (Un)censored Conversations (an intimate dialogue between Olga Sommerová and Olga ·pátová) she was constantly fidgeting. She was completely nuts. Sommerová: She took a long time to find the shot, and when she found it, she kept rubbing it in for about half an hour, on purpose to get me worked up. I was going out of my mind, I was screaming. And all of sudden I look at her and see that cunning little smile. ·pátová: Only after that Mom started being herself, sitting there with a cigarette and peacefully gazing into space, and suddenly she was spouting Chekovian wisdom. How is it to work professionally with one’s nearest relatives? As filmmakers, what do you think about that phenomenon that is pre- Olga Sommerová at work (with her husband, the famous documentary filmmaker Jan ·páta) Interview “Women must return to humanity its lost Eden, that precious pearl; but first we must come to know what lies at the bottom of our own hearts and we must dive down there to find it. BoÏena Nûmcová (1820-1862), Writer as much explicit advice for me as I have for Olga. Or as much social leverage. In that sense I’m more useful to her. tending to be like a documentary, the reality show? Sommerová: I watched for about ten minutes. It was boring and insulting. There’s one thing there that is almost sort of connected with our profession. As a documentary filmmaker I’ve always dreamed of being the fly on the wall and watching what goes on in the house. And suddenly here comes this reality show that supposedly wants to realize this dream. But because people aren’t living a real life there, because they’re forced to have artificial conflicts, it’s irritating, inauthentic, empty. ·pátová: In (Un)censored Conversations we did this kind of little private reality show. Sommerová: Except that we had actual conflicts and we have to live with each other until death. During the thirty-five years that separate you, attitudes towards sex have changed. ABOUT GENTLEMEN Were you different when you were Olga’s age? Sommerová: She’s more mature than I was and knows what she wants. I didn’t. I was better-read and bettereducated, because under the Bolsheviks, camaraderie and art were the biggest excitement; there were no other distractions. But I realize that even though my mother was a wise woman, she didn’t have nearly Sommerová: They used to say that sex is the Mercedes of the poor. The difference is that we were afraid of pregnancy because there wasn’t any good contraception; today it’s the fear of AIDS. But I can see clearly one generational difference. When I was filming with seventy-, eighty-yearold men, I had the feeling they were always happy to see a woman. They offered compliments they were gentlemen through and through. I feel something similar out in the country. But in the city, full of other attractions, I have the feeling of a greater distance, 5 that guys are even afraid of girls. I remember one of your stories, Olga, when you and your friend Lucy went to dancing lessons at Lucerna... ·pátová: We both wore red clothes. They called us the “red commandos”; I guess we were acting a bit too selfconfidently. When the dance call came the boys went for the other girls and we ended up standing there together in our red clothes! We wanted to dance, to flirt. They told us later that they were afraid of us! We went to the ladies’ room and just looked at each other, aghast. What kind of man do you yearn for? ·pátová: I yearn for a gentle guy. Sommerová: That’s right – a real man has to be sensitive. Whereas macho is as fragile as a crystal vase that shatters with the first problem. ·pátová: In this generation the boys are sensitive and fragile. They’re gentlemen. Sommerová: And I think the gentlemen are the older ones; today gentlemen are dying out. What do you mean by the term gentleman? That he helps you into your coat, pays your bill in the pub? Sommerová: The male compliments are still fun. But gentlemen are gentlemen because they’re not just interested in themselves. ·pátová: Being a gentleman means suppressing your own selfishness. 6 From the shooting of the documentary film Love Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow that is currently being shown on Czech Television Do the jokes about blondes upset you? Sommerová: Those aren’t jokes about blondes, but about women. And the most horrible thing is that they’re told by women themselves. That’s where it starts one time I asked your dad not to make jokes at my expense in public. And all the time he was so funny that I was laughing myself. But then one time I said, enough. Women would do a lot for themselves by rejecting that. And women’s solidarity is important. Alena Plavcová Lidové noviny Photos: TomበÎelezn˘ (Lidové noviny), the archives of Jan ·páta, Jan Tauber (Czech Television) hvûzda BoÏena Nûmcová (The Immortal Star BoÏená Nûmcová) (1997), O ãem sní Ïeny (What Women Yearn For) (1999), O ãem sní muÏí (What Men Yearn For) (1999), and for the Loserfilm Studio: Konec svûta v srdci Evropy (The End of the World in the Heart of Europe) (2002) and MáÀa po deseti letech (MáÀa Ten Years Later) (2003). Between 1991 and 2002 she taught at FAMU: for eight years from 1994 she was chair of the Department of Documentary Filmmaking. She has made eighty films, for which she has earned twenty-eight awards at domestic and international film festivals. Biography: www.loserfilm.cz. Olga ·pátová (b. 1984) Olga ·pátová is the daughter of the renowned documentary filmmakers Olga Sommerová and Jan ·páta. She made her first documentary Sedmikrásky (Daisies) about a group of her fellow students at the age of fourteen it was broadcast by Czech Television as part of the cycle “Ego.” Her fee was a Hi-8 camera, which she used to make more films. She studied advertising graphics at the Secondary School of the Advertising Arts. Here she and her friend Lucie were their own actors and cameramen for several short films: Svatba (A Wedding), Kávová spoleãnost (Coffee Society), Waiting for Godot. Independently she has made the films Míjení (Passing), Sama (By Myself) (which won her eight film festival awards), and Trojhra (Triple Game). ON FEMINISM I read that this century will be the century of the woman. What does that evoke for you? Sommerová: Women will win their rights step by step. And they’ll take part in running the world. But it will be slow, because men hold the economic, and therefore the political power. How do you view your mother’s feminism? ·pátová: I don’t agree when Mom says that women are the higher-quality portion of humanity. If I thought so it would make me sad. I want to live my life with a man. And I think we’re people, not men and women. But saying that next to a feminist Mom is very risky. Olga Sommerová (b. 1949) Olga Sommerová is a graduate of Prague’s Film Academy of the Performing Arts (FAMU). As a director for Krátk˘ film Prague, she spent ten years making 35-mm documentary films for the cinema. Since the Velvet Revolution of 1989 when documentaries stopped being shown in cinemas, she has been making documentary films for Czech Television. She focuses on social and interpersonal relations, important personalities, the phenomena of social and artistic life, feminism and this country’s modern history. Her best-known film titles include: Konkurs na rok 2000 (Audition for the Year 2000) (1979), Jednotfiídka (One-room School) (1981), S tebou táto (With You, Daddy) (1981), Miluj bliÏního svého (Love Thy Neighbour) (1990), MáÀa (1992), Nesmrtelná 7 Women Tractor-drivers and Lady Soldiers Today I am really at a complete loss when I read current (often quite nostalgic) considerations by some Czech, Russian and Polish women about how women had it so wonderful and how their lives were so much easier under Communism. Only a nostalgic longing for their lost youth could have so badly distorted their memories. We knew nothing about feminism or human rights, let alone women’s rights. It wasn’t even possible to write about these concepts. Even a declaration of human rights was forbidden. D uring the Communist Era, the emancipation of women was limited to an obligation to work and to act like men. What this really meant was proving that women could work in the same professions as men. So women tractor drivers, crane operators and welders were glorified there were even female miners and chimney sweeps. In reality however, these were relatively rare. The Communist slogan “Each according to his abilities and for each according to his needs” was never realized; instead the guiding slogan dur- 8 ing the first period of Communism was “Anyone who doesn’t work doesn’t eat”. This meant that women who were employed were more highly valued than were women who were “only” looking after their children and households. Women and the Dictatorship of the Proletariat There was no choice in the matter. This is why at home in addition to my diploma from Charles University and my doctoral degree, I also have an apprentice certificate as a bricklayer-hod carrier and a certificate from a metalworking course. It was believed by the working class in their political conscious that mentality of each individual could be changed by working in a factory or workshop; each of them would then have enthusiasm for the ideals of Communism. For this reason, people, including women, were sent into factories to be re-educated. The state, represented by a single political party, intruded into all types of private affairs including childbirth. For example, during the fifties abortion was illegal and contraception was not even available. Photograph taken in the 1970s for the newspaper Slovácká Jiskra, the daily of the Uherské Hradis‰tû District Central Committee of the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia by an unknown photographer History “It was expected that women could carry it all off without great difficulty: being a mother, wife and homemaker, working eight hours a day and hold some public political function or office. Surprisingly enough, I survived.” Women secretly brought into the country contraceptives from East Germany and later Hungary. During the first ten years following the Communist putsch abortion was banned totally, even in the event that the woman had been raped. Such a woman was forced to carry the foetus to term and then surrender the child to the state to be reared. It was only after twelve years of the dictatorship of the proletariat (as this period was officially known) that it was possible to get an abortion; but in order to do so, a woman had to go to a public meeting of the “abortion committee”, which included both doctors and politically conscious women from the local block organization of the Communist Party. If the father of the child did not agree to the abortion, a woman could not make the decision herself. But it was at least some progress, even if it did not add to a woman’s dignity. The emancipation of women was based on the Marxist-Leninist principle that each individual is liberated through their inclusion in the production process. The individual can only be transformed into a free and fully equal person through participating in the public sector – first and foremost in production – in the joint A powerless woman in the clutches of Communist justice – the trial of Milada Horáková (verdict: guilty, sentence: death) in the 1950s building of a socialist society. Using this principle, a woman who did not have children and who was supported by her husband could be charged with the crime of a “parasitic way of life.” People normally got around this situation with a medical report stating that the woman was either ill or incapable of working. This is why during the Communist era we could boast that 97.8 percent of all women who were capable of working were in the labour force. This was the reality of our lives. When I first began to attend primary school, there were only three children whose mothers worked outside the home. The school’s director marked these children as public welfare cases. They were from families so poor that their mothers had to work to make ends meet. When I finished my secondary school studies at the age of eighteen, only three of the students who graduated with me had mothers who did not work outside the home. Their cases were also taken note of as something negative for the child, because to remain as a homemaker was considered a bourgeois relic and the child of such a family was unlikely to receive the all-important recommendation for university admission. By this time, my mother was also working. Even though my father was a doctor, he was unable to support his wife and two children (especially after all of the nationalization of private property) on his salary alone. The double shift In the early 1960s, a woman was still required to return to her job no later than three months after the birth of her child. She could however leave her child in the company nursery and if she was still nursing, she could take two fifteen minute breaks during her eight-hour shift to go 9 and nurse her infant. I can still recall how even before six in the morning, mothers would be pushing their prams with children still half asleep down our street and how my mother (who was born in 1902 and was a schoolmate of Milada Horáková, who was executed by the Communists in the 1950s) commented: “This is their socialism.” This upset me because I myself saw this contradiction and yet I hoped that the socialism I lived under would be good and just. There was also something of a generational conflict between mother and daughter. For that reason (and others), I would like to emphasize here that Czechoslovak-style Communism did also have positive impacts on women. Not only were women brought into public life but the education of women was also increased in a fundamental way. It was widely believed that the World War III would soon break out. Here in Czechoslovakia, which was a vassal – or in more modern terms a satellite – of the Soviet Union, the focus was primarily on expanding heavy industry and mining coal and uranium. And so during the fifties women replaced men as a large pool of unskilled labour. In time, women also began to gain higher qualifications. The proportion of men and women in Czechoslovakia with secondary or tertiary education soon became equal. The self-confidence of women also increased and they soon came to consider the “double shift” (working as a homemaker and holding down a job at the same time) as a given. A t the time it was expected that women could carry it all off without great difficulty: being a mother, wife and homemaker, working eight hours a day and hold some public political function or office. Surprisingly enough, I survived along with my entire generation; in its own way it did leave women with greater 10 bration. Younger generations however now know that International Women’s Day was not invented by or established in the Soviet Union, but that it is a holiday celebrated by women all around the world. They also know that even today women must take an interest in their rights and so they are once again looking towards the holiday as a positive symbol. Jifiina ·iklová The editors would like to thank Mrs Hana Netu‰ilová for her willingness to lend the pictures used in this article. system (or “the market economy” as it is now more euphemistically referred to) is developing. What’s left? self-confidence. But without the two incomes, it would have been very hard to make ends meet. Dreams of make-up However, Czech women never stopped considering the necessity of holding a job as something forced upon them they dreamt of “resting” at home with their children. They dreamt of wearing make-up and various fashionable accoutrements; they looked longingly at glossy foreign fashion magazines for women. But the women in these magazines were as stylized and unrealized as were ideals of milkmaids and shock-workers seen in domestic propaganda. When the borders finally opened and these magazines and fashion designs began to appear in large numbers, we were only enchanted for a short while. Young women of today, who have been living in a “normal” democratic world for sixteen years, have begun to reject this form of feminine culture. Our appetites were sated by photographs and fashion shoots and it is only now in the younger generation of women and girls, who have had the opportunity to see conditions in the West with their own eyes, that an awareness of the necessity to “struggle” under a capitalist Much remains from the era when female tractor drivers and lady soldiers served as role models for women: an unconsidered and non-verbalized but yet significant emancipation, a feeling that “we can survive almost anything”. Linked to this is a strong resistance to any “overarching” women’s organizations and a distaste for ideologies, including feminism, which is and has been presented here as an ideology. The majority of women explicitly reject feminism as a concept in reality however we Czech women are so feminist that many women in the West should be envious. What about International Women’s Day, that official women’s holiday? For a long time it was forced upon us as a compulsory celebration. The hated presidents Gottwald, Novotn˘ and Husák used this holiday to welcome women delegates (who were certainly not chosen by us) to Prague Castle, shake their hands and shower them with flowers. This is in part why when we were able to freely express our views after the Velvet Revolution, we completely rejected it – in both words and actions. Today, 8 March – International Women’s Day – has become a good symbol for the transformation we have undergone. Older generations continue to reject the holiday as a Communist-enforced cele- 11 Strange Girl There are only a handful of Czech musicians about whom it can be truly said that they have really had an impact abroad. Were it not for a single exception, all of them could be found within the confines of classical music. The exception is the violinist and vocalist Iva Bittová. Her truly original music has been heard in virtually all corners of the globe. there in the world who also play the violin or even more unusually, singing violinists who more often than not perform solo without any other instru- T he question may certainly be asked: What is it about Bittová that has led the Fortune of global success (here of course, I am not speaking about the glittering world of show business but rather the sphere of musical connoisseurs who search for quality regardless of genre) to smile upon her? It is without doubt a combination of factors. Profound Moravian and Slovak roots can be seen in practically everything that Bittová does. The complete originality of her creative approach also plays an important role: how many well-known singers are 12 A performance by HaDivadlo in Prague mental accompaniment? Another important factor in her career’s continuing rise is the fact that Iva Bittová refuses to rest on her laurels and that she is continuously searching for new means of expression. Her enthusiasm for her art means that she might perform one day in an opera house, the next be found improvising with a DJ at a techno party and the following be in a club performing songs best described as “chansons”. Bittová has also shown the will to keep working on her craft – in particular she continues to refine her skills as a violinist under the direction of her teacher Rudolf SÈastn˘. The result of all this is that today Iva Bittová is one of the Czech music scene’s best “export items”. She plays regularly on stages around the world, her albums are issued by prestigious labels and she works with top artists in a wide range of genres. Iva Bittová was born in 1958 into a musical family in the northern Moravian town of Bruntal. Her father Music “The violin shapes me, transforms me, fulfils me aesthetically it shows me the best values in relationship to music, to people and to myself. That’s why I love it and to love means to live” Iva Bittová (b. 1958), Musician Koloman Bitto was a versatile musician who played a number of different instruments and performed with both folklore ensembles and operatic orchestras. Bittová often recalls how her entire family literally lived for music (her sister Ida Kelarová is a very successful singer and pianist whose primary focus is Roma folklore). In spite of this musical background, Iva Bittová’s first steps in the artistic world led towards acting. In 1975 while she was a student at the conservatory in Brno, she became a member of the now legendary avant-garde “Goose on a String” theatre company. She had a number of roles with this ensemble, the most popular of which was as “ErÏika” in the “folkloric musical” Ballad for a Bandit, which was eventually turned into a radio play and a film. She spent ten years in the Goose on a String company, made a number of films and television shows before leaving the world of acting in the mid-eighties when she “rediscovered” the violin – an instrument she had learned to play as a child but eventually came to despise. A performance in the VaÀkovka club “I had a completely different relationship to the instrument as a child and took it as something that I had to do. I wanted to be playing outside. I was really unhappy and so I used a small bruise on my neck that came from practicing as an excuse. I was em- barrassed by it and asked my parents to stop the violin lessons. But then I returned to the violin because in my heart, I really didn’t feel like an actress. I didn’t believe that acting was a calling or work that would fulfil me as music could. I then discovered Professor SÈastn˘, who told me that we’d have to start over from the very beginning. Repeating violin lessons seemed just as difficult as it’d been when I was a child; but there was a moment when I started to sing while playing and a secret chamber opened up inside me. It was a discovery for me that at the time I didn’t fully appreciate. I just knew that it was what I wanted and that singing and playing the instrument together gave me something. Today, I recognize this as the moment when I began to develop in musical terms.” I n the mid-eighties, Iva Bittová quickly became a fixture in Brno’s alternative music community. One of this group’s leading figures was the drummer Pavel Fajt. Bittová would 13 A performance by Pavel Fajt’s band Dunaj in Chvaletice (eastern Bohemia), 1987 form a duo with him, creating a heretofore unprecedented combo that received rapturous applause from audiences at home and subsequently abroad. The 1987 debut album by the duo, Bittová & Fajt remains one of the best works to come out of the Czechoslovak music scene during the era of totalitarianism. It is no surprise that this album has been issued by a number of foreign record labels. A longside her commitments to the duo, in the second half of the eighties Iva Bittová began to devote her time to rock music as the lead singer for the Brno-based group Dunaj, who recorded only one album. This collaboration was however a great source of inspiration for Bittová and she rerecorded almost all of Dunaj’s repertoire ten years later for the CD Pustit musí‰ (You’ve got to let go). But her musical career was gradually moving towards her becoming a solo artist. She began to have solo concerts in the early nineties and her repertoire from that period was preserved forever in 1991 on her first solo album. Reissued in 1997, it has the appropriately descriptive title of Divná sleãinka (Strange Girl). By this time, Bittová’s reputation as a violinist had spread far beyond this country’s or even this continent’s borders. She was on the road with her violin more frequently than she was in her native Moravia. Although elements of folklore are clearly present in the music of Bittová & Fajt, the reverberations of folk music were becoming every clearer in Iva Bittová’s musical compositions. This can be seen on her 1995 album of 14 Christmas carols entitled Kolednice, as well as in her first foray into the world of classical music, 44 Duets for Two Violins, a collection of Hungarian folk music inspired by the composer Béla Bartók. Playing alongside Bittová on the album was the violinist Dorothea Keller. During the second half of the nineties, Bittová returned to the bosom of Brno’s alternative music scene through her cooperation with musicians around Vladimír Václavek, Dunaj’s former bass guitarist and an original songwriter working with both influences from ethnic and world music and elements of minimalism. The recording of the 1997 double album Bilé inferno (White Inferno) led to the forming of the group âikori. The special atmosphere of this album was in part influenced by the fact that the lyrics were based on poems by the important, spiritually-oriented Moravian poets Bohuslav Reynek and Jan Skácel. The production continues to be performed and the production is now being prepared for a world tour. The second project came about as a commission for what is probably the most prestigious concert hall in the world, Carnegie Hall in New York City. This project brought Bittová together with the renowned instrumental ensemble Bang on a Can All-Stars. Although this group has traditionally focused on presenting contemporary classical music, the Elida project (issued on the eponymous CD in 2005) has a song structure that in places borders on a modern chanson, a genre in which Bittová excels not only as a singer but also as a songwriter. Today, Bittová appears only occasionally as a guest singer or violinist for pop, folk or rock and roll bands. She has appeared on albums recorded by the Eben Brothers, JablkoÀ, Monkey Business and the singers Richard Müller and Anna K. An original collaboration came out of Bittová’s working in a duo with DJ Javas from Brno, where she provided the vocals for modern house-techno club remixes. Currently Iva Bittová has only occasional solo concerts because most of her time and energy is focused on two major projects. In 2004, New York City witnessed the successful premiere of an avant-garde production of Mozart’s Don Giovanni, with Bittová in the main female role of Donna Elvira. A s is the case with stars from the world of classical music, Iva Bittová’s diary is booked up years in advance. In recent times, she has begun to speak about a need to rest as she has placed the maximum effort into each and every concert, guest appearance or recording session (something that can be clearly seen in the quality of her work). There is not doubt that she deserves a break, just as there can be no doubt that her artistic restlessness will not allow her a moment of inactivity. Ondfiej Bezr Photos: Jan Adamec, Bohdan Holomíãek, Indies Records (www.indies-rec.cz) Bittová then subtly introduced what was for her the previously unknown element of jazz into the âikori’s repertoire. At that time Bittová was regularly working with important musicians from around the world. The exceptional cellist Tom Cora had worked on the recording of Bílé inferno and the album Ples upírÛ (Vampires’Ball) came about in collaboration with the Netherlands Blaze Ensemble. Alongside Bittová’s own composition on this latter disc are her interpretations of compositions by Leo‰ Janáãek. At home, Bittová began to focus more intensively on classical music, especially works by those composers for whom folk music was a major source of inspiration. These include the previously mentioned Janáãek as well as contemporary composers such as Milo‰ ·tûdroÀ and Vladimír Godár. Bittová includes their compositions on her “classical” albums, which are most often recorded with the ·kampa Quartet. 15 Top Models with Big Hearts Eva Herzigová, Karolina Kurková, Daniela Pe‰tová, Hana Soukupová, Paulina Porizkova, Veronika Vareková, Tereza Maxová: on a per-capita basis, the Czech Republic has a high percentage of successful super-models. The Turkish warriors who invaded the southeastern Moravian border regions in the seventeenth century imposed themselves by force on the local gene pool, leaving behind generations of lovely women born of pain. Women with a full body line and full lips, with deep eyes set enticingly behind high cheek bones. Women of mysterious beauty, discovered after the Velvet Revolution by eager modelling agents and invited to the world’s fashion stages. Besides success and beauty, Czech models have brought something else to the profession: the willingness to help improve the lives of those in need. The Czech Republic is remarkable for its many top models who regard working on behalf of others as their life’s mission. Czech models are helping to change the world for the better. We would like to introduce you to a two of them. 16 Czech Embassy, and doesn’t know what’s going to happen. She has been arrested for subverting the Cuban revolution. Hidden in her clothes is a memory chip. Fortunately, the Cuban Helena Houdová Rebel Helena Houdová in Cambodia January 2006. In a Cuban prison sits a green-eyed, blonde-haired young woman. She’s being screamed at in Spanish. She’s not allowed to call the police don’t have a clue about digital cameras. Our top model in Cuba was guilty of the crime of taking photographs. He- On her trips, Helen photographs the difficult lives of children (Nicaragua) lena Houdová, founder of the charitable organization Sunflower Children, was taking pictures in the poor slums of Havana in order to document living conditions of the children there and find ways to help. This petite twenty-six-year-old woman works to alleviate misery in the lives of children in ten countries around the world. She therefore represents a grave threat to this dinosaur regime. After eleven hours Helena was released from jail. She managed to save the memory card, and then exhibited the pictures at Prague’s Langhans Gallery; the exhibit was attended by former President Václav Havel, among others. The photographs are now being sold with the proceeds going to the families of Cuban political prisoners. “And now I’m supposed to start behaving myself?” wondered this student of physical anthropology when she was officially crowned and donned the sash as Miss Czech Republic 1999. “Am I to leave everything else behind me now?” wondered the ecological activist as she had her picture taken for the cover of the Czech edition of Cosmopolitan magazine. Not at all, theneditor-in-chief Anastazie Kudrnová told her: “Now you have a perfect chance to promote everything you think is right!” Within two weeks Helena Houdková was driving a Cosmopolitan reporter through the snow and mud of southern Bohemia to a shelter for injured birds and their beauty and poise (Nepal). Society “Beauty is as beauty does.” English saying of prey, hoping to call attention to the lack of regulations that would prevent these birds from being harmed by electrical power lines. This blonde rebel is probably the only model in the world to start out working for charity, only later turning to modelling as a way to make a living. “I’ve been working in the social sphere since the age of sixteen. I learned sign language and visited children’s hospitals,” says the young anthropologist, whose work with physically and socially handicapped children led to her starting the Sunflower Foundation, charged with helping institutionalized children in the Czech Republic find lost confidence, self-respect and faith in themselves. For several years she served as a children’s camp counsellor, until the Sunflower name began to resonate. Along with her successful work with children, inter- national demand for Helena as a model also grew. More and more she found herself travelling abroad. She settled in New York, but as her travel itinerary grew, so did her awareness of the many places where intervention on the behalf of children is needed. For two years she travelled around the world taking pictures. It Helena Houdová in advertising campaigns for Cherokee, Tesco didn’t take long for her to realize that the key to helping is education. This is why the goal of the non-profit organization Sunflower Children is to provide children with access to education, supported by health care and nutritional assistance. It begins by building schools in a selected area. Then programmes for the children’s free time are developed, including afternoon and weekend activities. Sunflower has expanded its assistance to ten countries: besides the Czech Republic, the foundation works in Cuba, Nicaragua, Peru and Brazil. It has undertaken other activities in Kenya, Guinea, Nepal, India and Cambodia. At the moment it is developing projects for helping children in Haiti, Romania and Sri Lanka. In Cambodia, Helena sponsors a young girl who is suffering from AIDS. In the Czech Republic, Sunflower Children supports 17 Petra with one of her “rivals” – the supermodel Tereza Maxová education and treatment for orphans afflicted with the disease. The average budget for Helen’s project comes to US$30,000 a year, which she helps to raise by selling her photographs or appearing at benefit fashion shows. Interested in participating? You can find out how at www.sunflowerchildren.org, or by writing to [email protected]. Republic, a land with only ten million citizens (roughly the population of London), sent an enormous amount of money that made up 20 percent of the entire amount furnished by all the countries of the world together. And the story of Petra Nûmcová is part of that. S Petra Nûmcová A smiling angel A long-haired young woman clings to the branches of a palm tree. The cold, pounding water tries to tear her away. She has no idea how long she can hang on, no idea exactly what has happened. She is aware of a sharp pain in her pelvis. She tries to keep her legs from being caught in the floating debris, and prays, trying to stay calm. Through it all she feels a dull sorrow: just moments earlier she was walking along the beach with her boyfriend. They returned to the bungalow five minutes before the killer wave hit, parting them forever. On December 26, 2004 the world was informed of a disastrous tsunami that struck the coastlines of Asia. Czechs would soon learn that worldfamous model Petra Nûmcová was among the survivors, but was very se- 18 riously injured. Soon the nation was told that hundreds of its citizens had been vacationing in the affected areas. Unfortunately, fears that some had perished were soon confirmed. Czechs soon realized that a catastrophe had occurred in far off Asia that would have a direct affect on their lives. The story of Petra Nûmcová drew attention to conditions in Thailand, bringing on a giant, healing wave of support for the afflicted country. Within a few weeks the people of the Czech he lay in the local hospital in Hai Yai with a broken hip; morphine numbed the pain. Her lips were painfully swollen. The death of her friend, British photographer Simon Atlee, would not be officially confirmed until March. The reporters were already descending on Phuket: the troubles of other people raise newspaper circulation. And when one of the victims of the tragedy is a famous and beautiful young woman who loses her love in the disaster and lies injured among crowds of orphaned children, that’s a story. The paparazzi went wild for a picture of a bruised Petra Nûmcová in a hospital bed. Finally she agreed to an offer by the magazine US Weekly, donating the money to the tens of thousands of children who had lost their parents in the ordeal. The photographer expected tears, but instead found a serene smile on the face of Petra Nûmcová. Later she explained to journalists: “A mother talks to her daughter about how people Cover of the book in which Petra describes her greatest challenges in life Petra with Thai children react differently to tragedy. Think about a carrot, an egg and some coffee, she says. Put these three things together in hot water, and what happens? The carrot was hard, but now it’s soft. The soft egg hardens. But the coffee? In the hot water, that is, in the most trying times, it gives us its aroma and taste. It becomes something better.” This is exactly how Petra behaved. As soon as she had recovered, she went back to Thailand to learn what the orphaned children need the most. Then she founded the Happy Hearts Fund, which now helps 1200 Thai children. Her foundation is contributing US$130,000 to build a school in Khao Lak and housing for eighty children. She raised US$38,000 to provide psychological help for the afflicted. For twenty orphans who survived the catastrophe on the Indonesian island of Aceh, she has arranged to cover US$12,000 in costs for food, schooling, books, accommodation and transportation. The American magazine Glamour declared her its Woman of the Year for 2005. She has published a book entitled Love Always, Petra, the proceeds of which go to charitable activities. She travels diligently around the world gathering support for the Happy Hearts Fund. She’s looking for money. Want to help? You’ll find the information at www.give2asia.org/happyheartsfund. Sabrina Karasová Petra in a charity campaign for the firm Rampage Happy Hearts Fund foundation donated US$130,000 to build a school for 80 children in Khao Lak Editor-in-chief, Cosmopolitan magazine Photos: Martin Bandzak, Cosmopolitan, Sunflower Foundation (sunflowerchildren.org), Happy Hearts Fund A picture by Jan Saudek going under the hammer at a charity auction of paintings 19 20 1 2 3 4 5 6 Art Czech women have been among the leading lace makers – alongside the Italians and Dutch – since the very beginnings of this remarkable textile’s history. Czech lace makers reconfirmed their select status in the beginning of the twentieth century, when lace found a new role in Czech culture. Ludmila Kybalová b. 1929) Art Historian For centuries, lace has had the attributes of decorativeness, sweetness and filigreed beauty. It both pleased and embellished; it was evidence of nobility and celebration. Jifií Pilka (b. 1930) Musicologist and writer Works by Milãa Eremiá‰ová (opposite page) 1. Pyramid 2. Scarlet in Blue 3. Great Arch 4. Sydney 5. Gothic Arch 6. Black-grey 1 Centre photo: Madona v kefii Works by Svûtlana Pavlíãková (this page) 1, 2, 3, 5. The Elements, flax, cotton, silk, metallic thread (dracou, lerex), beads, paper pulp (4x25x25 cm) 4. Gryphon, wire, sheet metal (122x150 cm) 6. Garden, metal, flax (122x90 cm) 2 3 5 4 6 21 TINITY 22 SoÀa Hlaváãková: “My goal is to always have some kind of goal.” remote nightclub next to a dock by the river on the outskirts of Prague. Along the darkened catwalk strides one smiling beauty after another, the spotlight shining on clothes so colourful that a butterfly could hide itself in their folds. For a while it seems like the inside of a gaudy Oriental harem; the next minute you find yourself on a busy street in a city where the pace of life is so fast people need a streamlined cut of clothes for zipping around. Then suddenly the models are inviting you to a summer resort garden party, full of sparkling sequins on dresses with refined slits. Staring in amazement at the multicoloured review on the stage, you know you’re seeing something special. Something worldly that you wouldn’t expect to find in a oÀa Hlaváãková, who became the first and thus far only Czech fashion designer to present a collection at the prêt-à-porter fashion show in Paris, is showing a part of that collection here. This petite young woman dresses Czech and foreign top models, television moderators, singers, actors and sports stars. The twenty-eight-yearold designer makes no secret of her goals, judging the situation this way: “If I can keep up the same working pace I am now, I have a real chance to make it abroad.” Smiling, she continues, “My goal is to be one of the world’s elite designers and break into the fashion markets in Europe, the United States, Japan and the Arab countries. It’s a S SoÀa Hlaváãková, founder and owner of the Tinity brand Fashion “Empathy is important for dressing. You can’t make beautiful clothes or even dress well and tastefully if you’re not in tune with the world around you.” Natálie Steklová (b. 1976) Fashion Designer big job that has to be approached in a step-by-step manner. The worldfamous designers of today are mostly between fifty and sixty years old. So I have a lot of time yet.” When you watch her at work, you realize that in addition to designs, she is also creating and working with the atmosphere in the room – flower arrangements or a mix of music from different genres and with different moods at the same time. “This year I’m working mainly with silk and various embroideries. I bring out the contrast between the roughness and smoothness of the materials. There’s no colour I would avoid.” H er fashion collection from the Paris prêt-à-porter show sold out all over the world. She also gained two big customers, a large boutique in Atlanta and one of the most luxurious fashion galleries in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, where her models will be alongside of those of Karel Lagerfeld and John Gallian. “My goal is to always have some kind of goal,” says SoÀa. As a child she was already designing and sewing outfits for her dolls. She was interested in architecture, graphology, sculpture; she studied art history, drawing and esthetics. In time she opened her own store, which sold clothes imported from Italy; sometimes she exhibited clothes that she designed herself. It turned out that the clientele were much more interested in her creations than the Italian outfits, so she founded the fashion label Tinity and started designing full-time. She designed costumes for the Czech versions of the musicals Grease and Chicago, and has created company logos for many Czech and international firms, includ- S ing Eurotel, T-Mobile, L’Oreal, Hewlett-Packard, Nestlé, Danone, Smirnoff and Camel. In discussing the Czech contribution to design, she says: “The present situation still requires Czech designers to rein in their extraordinary inventiveness. There is no good designing school in existence in our country; people have to go abroad to learn how to use the technology. They have to discover a lot of things for themselves. Czechs are good at handicrafts: our locally made beads and pearls are among the best in the world. But it’s mainly that we know how to work with them. Things made by hand are something we can be proud of.” he continues, “For example, I like to design outfits for fuller-bodied women who often want to conceal more, and I help them discover how to present their better points and really look good. My customers become my friends, which helps me to do my work. Women in the stores often say to me, ‘It’s beautiful, but where would I wear it?” That’s nonsense! In Czechoslovakia under the old regime it paid to be a little grey mouse and blend in with the crowd.” SoÀa Hlaváãková believes: “My customers are different. They like to dress well, and there are going to be more and more of that kind of people in this country.” Sabrina Karasová Editor-in-chief, Cosmopolitan magazine Photos: www.tinity.cz 23 BLANKA Blanka Matragi: “I stand behind every rag.” If SoÀa Hlaváãková is the rising star of Czech design, Blanka Matragi is the fixed star – though she shines from Lebanon. She first studied to be a glass cutter and then took up fashion design. The link between art and fashion is her trademark theme; a big surprise was her 1999 comeback in the field of glass and crystal costume jewellery. B lanka first became internationally known within the Socialist bloc in 1978 by winning the design competition for the 1980 Moscow Olympics collection. At home, she designed costumes for television and dressed the Czechoslovak pop stars of the day. The following year she married a Lebanese engineer, Makram Matragi, and a few months later moved to Beirut. 24 She found herself on the road to finding her dream clientele – customers from the highest circles of the Arab world. At first she created designs for evening wear for a private Lebanese firm, but in 1982 she opened her salon Blanka Haute Couture on Beirut’s main boulevard, Hamra Street. She won a worldwide competition for her design of police uniforms for Abu Dhabi in the United Arab Emirates. She not only dresses the wives, sisters and daughters of kings, emirs, sheiks and magnates in the region of the Persian Gulf, but European high society as well. Her major focus remains evening gowns, as well as shower and wedding ensembles. “Everybody wants something extraordinary; everyone wants to be original in themselves in order to satisfy their own vanity. And that’s what fashion is all about ... Today’s fashion is about a feeling of lightness, the butterfly women reveal as much as they can of their body. That’s why women are exercising and working hard – even all my princesses have their own private trainers and put Blanka Matragi, the leading Czech fashion designer and founder of Blanka Haute Couture, has lived for many years in Lebanon. a lot of effort into really looking good. What role is played by the customs of the Middle East? If they don’t want their legs to be seen, we sheathe them completely, but the décolletage and the arms are bared today, with shawls worn over them, made of, say, tulle or chiffon. And even in those palaces, they wear very sexy and very feminine clothes.” Blanka’s salon is unique not only for the delicate textile that it produces: it’s also remarkable for the ethnic composition of the team of women who work for her. In 2001 a reporter from Czech Radio found women from Lebanon, Armenia, Turkey, the Czech Republic, the Philippines and one from the Seychelles. They are Protestants, Catholics, Orthodox Christians, Sunni and Shiite Muslims – a total of fifty women in two studios who bring Blanka’s highly individualistic concepts into reality. Every customer here has her own tailor’s mannequin that is an exact reproduction of the client’s figure; the mannequin is even altered as people gain or lose weight. “My creed is that I stand behind every article of clothing,” says Matragi. Blanka Matragi enjoyed a symbolic triumph in 2002 with an exclusive fashion show in Prague, and the presentation of her new collection for the twentieth anniversary of her Beirut salon. of the individual mythology of women. She is the master of silence in vogue. The vogue of Blanka Matragi we cannot interpret only as a fashion. She creates artwork.” In 2003, Blanka Matragi was recognized by a proclamation of the Czech Republic’s Senate and Ministry of Foreign Affairs as an “Important Czech Woman in the World”. A presentation of sixty of her exclusive evening gown designs along with an exhibit of past and current designs created for various royal families will be held in September of this year at the Municipal House in Prague. These events will be a part of the celebration of Blanka Matragi’s twenty-five years in the profession. The editors Photos: Robert Vano, Via Perfecta Agency, www.tinity.cz, www.blanka.com In the spring of that year, she was given the European Art Prize, and that summer this was followed by two more: the Salvador Dali International Prize and the Franti‰ek Kupka 2002 award from the Union of Czech Graphic Artists for “graphic and pictorial vision in clothing design.” When Professor Miroslav Klivar of World Distributed University in Brussels gave her the European Art Award, he described her contribution to design in this way: “Blanka Matragi is a master Who are the next leading Czech designers? Alice Abraham www.aliceabraham.com Monika Drápalová www.modra-fashion.cz Helena Fejková www.helenafejkova.cz Daniela Flej‰arová and Eva Janou‰ková www.edaniely.cz Tatiana Kovafiíková www.tatiana.cz Klára Nademl˘nská www.klaranademlynska.cz Ivana Novotná www.ivn.cz Libûna Rochová www.studio-lr.com 25 The Muses of Photogenie The oldest portrait of a woman shown here dates from the early twentieth century. It was in 1903 that Franti‰ka Plamínková helped found the Czech Women’s Club, the mission of which was the cultivation and enlightenment of society. The picture by noted traveller and photographer Franti‰ek Krátk˘ is one of significance. For a while Krátk˘ bore the torch of idealization, seeing that his mission was to glorify the model in the spirit of the times. In the thirty years that I have been scouring the used book stores for photographic portraits, I had never seen a photographic depiction of a halo that was not circular but rectilinear – until last year. It should be understood that I have seen innumerable circles and ovals engraved on photographs as haloes. The nine Muses have been passed down to us from the ancient Greeks. The depiction of their attributes has evolved through history to the point where we can barely recognize them. Figuratively this foreshadows the democratization of the portrait, its mass distribution and trivialization, most of which took place in the twentieth century. T he authors of the photos printed here are exclusively men. They are an illustration of how the stronger sex views humanity’s more delicate half. From old-fashioned souvenir photographs the range of genres expands to encompass the dreams that contemporary artists harbour and communicate about women. 2 5 26 1 3 4 6 7 8 The lady in the picture was probably Bohumila Bloudilová, to whom Franti‰ek Krátk˘ taught photography in Kolín. In the spring of 1906, she opened her own studio in that same town. Because Kolín is so much smaller than Prague, her efforts to compete in what was then, in the tradition of nineteenth-century morality, a man’s profession, are all the more admirable. In the 1920s the women’s liberation movement was burgeoning. European men returned from the Great War to a different world. The clear growth in women’s self-awareness required some adjustments. Nor could it be ignored in photography. Chairwoman of the Czechoslovak Red Cross Alice Masaryková was also called on occa- 10 9 sion to fill the role of First Lady. Her father TomበGarrigue Masaryk was the first President of an independent Czechoslovakia, a democracy built on the ruins of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. When he visited the legendary photographer Franti‰ek Drtikol, it was Alice who accompanied him. Drtikol is known today for his nudes, but his archives contained many times more portraits. They seem to exude a civic self-awareness. A new nation had been founded and now the inalienable dignity of man and woman was not just for the elites, who had cultivated the portrait for centuries. With inexpensive photography available to the masses, now even a typical day labourer could be immortalized. The earlier decorativeness fell by the wayside: a realistic likeness was now sufficient to convey human dignity. Though Alice Masaryková was a figure close to the ruling circles, here she poses unpretentiously. Her portrait has not yet assumed the Art Deco mood, but is no longer Art Noveau. With Euro-American emancipation, women are discarding their prudish attire. Skirts are shortened by one-third, and 27 more and more women are allowing themselves to be seen in natty, closefitting swimwear. More and more, women feel comfortable in front of the camera. The illustration of Vítûzslav Nezval’s poetry by Karel Tiege crosses the line into the modern conception of women. According to this interpretation, a picture in the true service of the international avant-garde must be socially committed and critically decipherable. The idealistic depiction of women (often in the genre of the nude) was to be confronted with their actual status in society during the era of global economic crisis in the 1930s. The presentation of this conflict remains on the photographer’s agenda to this day. In the end it would be up to the female artist to seize portraiture for her- 12 28 self. But that is a different chapter in the democratization of art. Only the one anonymous photo may have been taken by a woman. This is, however, quite unlikely: if it was the case, it would be a surprising exception. It would mean that the male ideal of women was a concept that could be put forward by women themselves. But in this exhibit we follow women through the male photographer’s various angles of motivation. In any case, it is obvious that women remain a welcome source of inspiration, one that can give the photographer’s vision a surprising set of wings. To a certain extent it is often obscure whether a picture was staged for the photographer or came his way by happenstance and serendipity. The arrangement from the studio of the contemporary photo- 11 13 14 Men themselves have other things in mind. To be happy in life they don’t need a woman out of a picture! grapher Ivan Pinkava is extremely old-fashioned in stylization. But the vignette of war by Tibor Honty almost gives the impression of having been composed as well: it would be hard to stage a more pathos-inducing scene with an entire film studio and crew! Josef Moucha Fotograf magazine P avel Mára casts art historian Anna Fárová in an extraordinary dual role. In one stroke he pays double tribute to her legacy as a multi-faceted artist on the one hand and as a specialist in photography on the other. Her older colleagues on the academic art scene regarded the medium as unworthy. But her younger colleagues instead chose to follow her example. Our review can hardly fail to mention seventy-one-year-old Jan Saudek, one of the most famous Czech photographers ever. With his bold sense for dramatic contradiction he declares: “My photos are purely decorative, and people should hang them on their walls. I want them to be enjoyed. After all, they speak of eternal human problems”. The author creates, in his own words, “things that are complete 15 nonsense, but are believable”. As an example he says: “No girl is going to hold her blouse in her teeth to reveal her breasts. I did it, and it works.” Careful readers will surely have noticed that no attention has been given here to the kind of beauty that submits itself through various competitions to a collective-minded band of judges. All these queens of the catwalk somehow look alike ... poster-quality, you might say ... but nothing like the Muses. The Changing Image of Women in Photography – captions 1. Franti‰ek Kratk˘ (Kolín): unititled (early twentieth century) 2. Franti‰ek Drtikol: Alice Masarykova, 1919 (Collections of the Museum of Decorative Arts, Prague) 3. Karel Teige, illustration for Abeceda, a collection of poems by Vítûzslav Nezval, 1926 4. Eva Fuka, Straw Head, 1958 5. Jan Lukas, Refugees from the Sudetenland following the Munich Agreement, early October 1938 (Property of the author) 6. Miroslav Hák, Mask, 1938 (Collections of the Museum of Decorative Arts, Prague) 7. MiloÀ Novotn˘, Model, 1964 (Collections of the Moravian Gallery, Brno) 8. Vilém Reichmann, from the cycle Magic: Sexbomb, 1964 (Collections of the Moravian Gallery, Brno) 9. Alexander Hammid, Maya, around 1943 (Collections of the PPF Group) 10. Jaromír Funke, Sisters, 1942 (Collections of the Moravian Gallery, Brno) 11. Tibor Honty, Killed in the war’s last seconds. Funeral of Colonel Georgij Sacharov in front of the Rudolphinum, Prague, 10 May 1945 (Collections of the Moravian Gallery, Brno) 12. Ivan Pinkava, Salome, 1996 (Property of the author) 13. Tono Stano, Sense, 1992 (Property of the author) 14. Bohdan Holomíãek, Trutnov, 1967 (Collections of the PPF Group) 15. Jan Saudek, Marie no. 142, 1972 (Property of the author) 29 Eva Fuka It’s my world... “I haven’t been influenced by anybody, and it never occurred to me to try out any new techniques. I just created my own world. Sometimes the results may have been a bit clumsy, but it was my world, and no one could enter but me. I never really cared about any international trends – I didn’t even know about them, and didn’t miss them, either.” Photographer Eva Fuka in her biography Fragments of a Life: A Photographer’s Memoir. Eva at an exhibition opening in the office of J. Funke in Brno. Photo: Emanuel Frynta L ast year’s made-for-television film Vracím do zemû labryntu (Return to the Land of the Labyrinth) was director Ale‰ Kisil’s tribute to the life and work of Eva and Vladimír Fuka. The pair left Prague and settled across the ocean, then back to the old continent, then from Germany back to New York. Today Eva Fuka (born in 1927) 30 Time Stood Still, 1957 lives in Prague. Art has become a way for her to keep impressions fresh and alive, a way of maintaining direction. She was introduced to photography at an early age by her father Franti‰ek Pode‰va, an academic, painter, and editor-in-chief of the journals Rozkvût and Salon. His wife Marie was an author and a translator who spoke several foreign languages. Perhaps it was Eva Fuka’s inherited verbal talent that inspired her to give voice to her memories. All quotations used in this article are taken from her autobiography Fragments of a Life. The Pode‰va sisters spent their preschool years living in a large, welllighted flat with a glass ceiling in a building on the main street in the Vinohrady district, one of Prague’s better quarters. The flat served as a studio and as a meeting place for artists, photographers and literati, including frequent visitors from abroad: “There was an orange rug with a white elephant in the middle covering the hall’s parquet floor – a gift from a friend in Final Journey, 1953 Portrait China – that never ceased to fascinate me,” recalls Eva Fuka. Eva Fuka has been photographing sculptures and pictures in an attic studio of New York’s Metropolitan Museum since the 1960s, a space with the same nourishing light as the light that poured down on her childhood through the glass ceiling. Pork Fat, 1953 began to disappear from our playground and from school benches.” Shadow, 1952 Retracing her steps blackest night, where people were bumping into one another in the dark. As the days went by, yellow stars began to appear on people’s clothes, and I, in desperate protest, always rode in the rear tram cars, because Jews were not allowed in the front cars. Friends “My photographic experiments at the age of twelve were not too bad,” reckons the author of two monographs and many exhibitions and catalogues. “I became more and more interested in photography; I made several passable pictures, and started my ‘studies’ at the studio of Miro Bernat, and at the School of Graphics.” Even during the war, young novices in the art of photography were taught there by Josef Ehm and Jaromír Funke, who had been inspired by Surrealism. A like-minded photographer and future film director, Miro Bernat, assigned selected literature to his student for her to study and had her recite poetry. The Second World War ended for Eva with the beginning of the Prague Uprising on 5 May 1945: “On that day I celebrated my birthday: I was eighteen years old. I’ll never forget the ninth of May, when the tanks finally appeared on the horizon to liberate Prague from the last clutches of the Germans. At five in the morning we were awakened by the growl of H er parents brought up the girls with Spartan discipline. Her father probably missed having a boy, so he dressed the girls in pants, had their hair cut short and taught them to box. “A regular visitor would often frighten us, saying that war was coming and if we misbehaved we could be sent to a concentration camp. In my childhood imagination this abstract term filled me with unimaginable horror. I did not like that man.” Then came a raw and cold March 1939 and German soldiers occupied Czechoslovakia. “We all cried over our betrayal by our allies. Our parents hung a poem by Svatopluk âech on the wall: ‘Believe no one in this wide world we haven’t a single friend there ...’ Prague was darkened; the trams shone like blue fireflies in the 31 Autumn Leaves, 1953 Just Three, 1962 motors. Soon, faint hopes that we would be seeing American tanks disappeared: ‘This means the end’, said my dad quietly, standing on the balcony watching the lumbering giants go by, their red banners fluttering.” I n the early summer of 1945, this graduate of a graphics secondary school and trained photographer applied to the Academy of Fine Arts in Prague. All Czech universities had been closed for several years and there was a rush to sign up for newly-opened classes; even so, she was accepted. There she met a classmate who would become her life-long partner: Vladimír Fuka (1926-1977). Their youthful beginnings were interrupted by the Communist takeover in February 1948, which was followed by a regime of parades, lines in front of empty shops and the kitsch of Socialist Realism. In the 1950s Eva Fuka explored Prague with a camera around her neck and her daughter Ivana on her back. At that time she began to build the foundation of her life’s work. She was cut off from the outside world by an impermeable wall of censorship: the borders were vigilantly monitored by the police; group activities were 32 Silver Necklace, 1962 illegal. Just like during the occupation, one could only dream of the streets full of lights, and cafés where people could talk freely among themselves. The new dictatorial regime ushered in decades of arms races and economic absurdity. Shadows lurked behind closed-up storefronts of businesses that had been nationalized and then abandoned. The cinema and the theatre were overrun with propaganda. Prague Castle loomed forbiddingly over the Vltava, while Prague’s narrow streets and romantic houses crumbled from a lack of maintenance. Façades were streaked with leaking water from rusty gutters. While the graphic and impromptu artist Vladimír Boudník exploited the cracks in the walls right there on the houses, Eva Fuka altered the contours of reality in her photographs. She usually worked with a simple idea – for example, reversing the negative when developing it. T he Fukas were artists who drew on the subject of life in society. Once a week they and their young friends shared with one another the contents of their “diaries”. During the difficult years of Stalinism they issued a private magazine that became the intelSelf-portrait, 1962 In the Woods, 1958 Jifií Koláfi, 1954 lectual foundation for their further work. The Cold War era produced a shift in the lyrical imagination towards irony, towards absurdity: “We formed an inseparable group, and we saw each other pretty much every day. We were all poor; none of us produced anything useful to the regime. Our common plight in those years bound us tightly together. Of course we didn’t dare sit around in a coffee shop: the spooks were always right behind us; sometimes they hung around under our windows. During the political trials there was a ban on group meetings, so we went to see friends one at a time.” To be continued After thirty-five years of exile Eva Fuka returned to her native Prague. The apartment of this scholarly, classically-educated artist is more than tastefully furnished; it is an environment in the artistic sense. Of course the spirit of Vladimír Fuka is ever-present in his paintings, drawings and graphics. Eva Fuka divides her time between Prague and trips to America and Paris, where her grandson lives and where her daughter runs a successful graphics studio. E T he atmosphere of suspicion and a targeted campaign against intellectuals cost artist Jifií Koláfi nine months in pre-trial detention. He was jailed just before Christmas, 1952. “Luckily the trial was interrupted by Stalin’s death. I remember it well: I used to walk with the baby carriage beneath the window, and Vladimír stuck his Hotel, 1952 head out to tell me of Stalin’s death. In the streets the loudspeakers were playing funeral music but our hearts rejoiced.” va Fuka is preparing a retrospective for her eightieth birthday in a year’s time. This look back on her life’s work will require a thorough review of the surviving archives of negatives, many of which have never been developed. Josef Moucha Fotograf magazine 33 Two Queens of Czech Lace Milãa Eremiá‰ová (b. 1938) Milãa Eremiá‰ová was born in Prague and following her secondary school studies, she attended the Academy of Arts, Architecture and Design in Prague, where she studied lace and embroidery. She was a teacher at an arts and crafts institute and in 1990 she began teaching at the private Master School of Artistic Design in Prague. Currently she is teaching both at home and abroad. Since she completed her studies, she has been an active artist and she first exhibited her works in Sweden in 1967 her first solo domestic exhibition was in 1973. In his essay “The Secret Touch in the Lace of Milãa Eremiá‰ová”, Jifií Pilka writes: “Milãa Eremiá‰ová found her world in the fragility of all types of thread. Her lace creations leave the two-dimensional world behind, moving into a threedimensional space that combines a wooden torso with a tree-like structure. The spiritual world is a powerful source of inspiration in her work, manifesting itself in pietas, crucifixes, and innumerable variations of representations of the Virgin Mary and Jesus. What is remarkable for work thus inspired is a dance-like quality. The Virgin Mary is not represented in traditional brave figurations, but joy glows from within her, she is flowing, in motion. Emphasis is placed on feeling rather than description or naturalism. We can find natural motifs in a wide range of the artist’s works; the world of music (Janáãek, MartinÛ, Stravinsky) is a frequent source of inspiration. Nature is often an independent element in many of her creations because Milãa Eremiá‰ová feels very close to it. Suggestive representations of the sea in a wide range of variations are often dominant; the artist joyfully and repeatedly sets out on a journey to that ancient element that is the source of all life on this planet. Eremiá‰ová’s monumental works de- 34 signed for large architectural spaces are less well known because they are so difficult to display. The artistic world of Milãa Eremiá‰ová has many of the characteristics of the Czech artistic tradition: to contain a spiritual message, to unify horizons, to tune nature and people, past and present, the friability of tragedy with the desire for life’s beauty, into a personal and perspective creative gesture. Women are often blessed with the gifts of wisdom and harmony. Milãa Eremiá‰ová is able to transform these into the strong language of artistic expression. Svûtlana Pavlíãková (b. 1954) Svûtlana Pavlíãková was born in the eastern Bohemian city of Hradec Králové. She studied bobbin lace making at the Artistic Production Institute in Vamberk. She then worked there as a lace maker and designer for a lace making artistic cooperative. Since 1992, she has devoted her energies to both decorative and non-decorative arts. She has exhibited her works since 1978 and currently they may be found in the collections of the Vamberk Lace Museum, the Prachatice Lace Museum and the Museum of Jewish Culture in Prague. She says about herself: “Something fundamental draws me towards textiles. It was fate that introduced me to bobbin lace making and allowed me to develop within it. This limitation is not a limitation. Embracing and breaking the borders of this technique’s possibilities is almost impossible for one person. One deals with many other textile and nontextile techniques that either are derived from lace making or that naturally assimilate with it. The boundlessness of the technical possibilities is a challenge, an adventure and a space for personal expression. I am searching for both the philosopher’s stone and myself in the innumerable branches of this living tree. Fashion show supports the ·koda Roomster Recently, models and dancers dressed in silver gowns by the Czech fashion designer Hana Havelková enticed visitors at the automobile show in Leipzig, Germany to look at the new ·koda Roomster car, which had its German premiere at this show. The designer noted “A team of top Czech models and professional dancers try to get the attention of the visitors, with more than thirty models appearing in a single performance. This year we had the great fortune to work with Michal ·típa, a soloist for the National Theatre Ballet in Prague. In addition to a traditional fashion show presentation, the models adjust the steering wheel, adjust the seats and load a mountain bike into the car, all with grace and a smile. Havelková adds, “I designed the clothes to go with the design of the new car.” Photo: Max Tsiu Headquarters for EU Presidency Our country is continuing in its preparations for the 2009, when the Czech Republic should host the presidency of the Council of the European Union. Jan Kohout, the Czech Republic’s ambassador to the European Union, has already signed a lease for four floors with offices for 120 people in a building next to the seat of the Czech Republic’s Permanent Representation to the EU. This complex of buildings is located not far from the seat of the European Parliament. The Czech Republic will hold the rotating presidency from January to June 2009. The costs associated with the presidency that must be covered will be approximately 2 billion crowns. Mosaic Trends 2007 A show of works by the fashion designer Helena Fejková’s work entitled “Trends 2007” was organized by the Czech Centre in Paris and the Lucerna Prague Fashion Gallery, together with the National Theatre Ballet. The fashion show was held on 21 April at the newly-opened arrival terminal of the Eurolines Bus Company, which is located in La Défense – the most modern district in Paris. Eurolines set up some four hundred seats around the twenty-five-metre long catwalk, which was the stage for a dance creation choreographed by Jan Kodet and directed by Lenka Vinická. This shows premier had been held earlier on 18 April at the Czernin Palace, the seat of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Prague. Among the guest was the Foreign Minister, Cyril Svoboda. Money raised from the sale of tickets was donated to the People in Need Foundation for orphan-focused projects in Namibia. This fashion show, in cooperation with the Czech House, should also be held in Moscow in May. Kurková wins award At the age of only 22, the top Czech fashion model Karolina Kurková has found herself in the company of women such as the former American First Lady, Hillary Clinton and Jordan’s Queen Rania. In New York City, the non-profit organization Women Together recognized Kurková for her contributions to the struggle for women’s rights. This prestigious award was presented this year to ten women who are helping women in the developing world. Others to be honoured were the Hollywood star Angeina Jolie and the Columbian pop singer Sharika, who heads the children’s aid foundation Barefoot. In receiving the award, Kurková said, “People have to help each other, without regard for skin colour, nationality or religion. Mutual toleration is incredibly important. I think that they chose Sharika and me, so that we can help to spread information about the needs of women to the younger generation.” Photo: Mango Toronto, Canada. In addition to their own literary works, the duo of ·kvoreck˘ and Salivarová focused on the publication of Czech literature for more than two decades during their Canadian exile. Beginning in 1969, their publishing house Sixty-Eight Publishers issued more than 220 literary and historical works banned by Communist Czechoslovakia. During the presentation of the award, the eighty-one-year old ·kvoreck˘ noted that the good name of the Czech Republic in Canada has primarily been spread by local Czech businesspeople. 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The composer Bohuslav MartinÛ, who by this time was already very famous and had been living primarily in France since 1923, had convinced her to apply for the scholarship. MartinÛ had met Vítûzslava Kaprálová during one of his trips to Boehmia. She caught his eye, both as a student composer and most certainly as a woman. Once in Paris, she found support in MartinÛ – they played together and he advised her on her compositions. MartinÛ – who was a quarter of a century her senior – fell in love. The student and ward was transformed into a friend and lover. They all fall for her Jifií Mucha, son of the painter Alfons Mucha and one of the other men whose 36 lives were impacted by Vítûzslava Kaprálová in Paris, wrote in his book Podivné lásky (Strange Loves): “It was no surprise that MartinÛ’s relationship with her changed. Everyone fell in love with her quite readily, but for MartinÛ there were even more reasons. She was Czech, she loved the (Bohemian-Moravian) Highlands, his native region, and as a composer she was like his soul mate. It would have been enough to add his experience to her miraculous talent and he would not only have created a great artist but a sort of continuation of his own being. MartinÛ, who had lived for many years with the kind but wholly disinterested Charlotta – a good, motherly housekeeper but no source of inspiration, had no children and Vitka (as she was known to friends) awoke within him both a father’s pride and an inspired love for an ideal being. This is why he initially was afraid to caress her other than through words, looks and thoughts. MartinÛ was all to conscious of how little, aside from his artistic talents, he had to offer a girl so much younger than himself, someone who appeared to him as an inconstant, mercurial pixie. He would have given her everything. But there was one thing he couldn’t and it was the most important.” Just who was this “mercurial pixie”? Since 2001, the Venus Quartet Prague has been known as the Kapralova Quartet (with the permission of Mr Josef Kaprál and in association with the Kapralova Society in Canada) Personality Vítûzslava Kaprálová in a drawing by Rudolf Kundera “All we can do is look for the good with open eyes and steel ourselves against the evil, be grateful for the beauty that surrounds us and for the pain.” Vítûzslava Kaprálová (1915-1940), Composer (from a letter to her mother) She came from Brno, her father was a recognized composer and was the director of a music school; her mother was a singer, meaning that her talents were inherited. Her parents set about try to develop these talents. It is quite possible that they saw in her a child prodigy. They encouraged her piano playing, when she started to compose, they didn’t try to stop her. Nor did they when she wanted to leave Brno for Prague and then for Paris. From a very young age she was small and fragile and yet at the same time stubborn and independent. A very talented girl S he was able to read without difficulty at the age of five and she spent many long hours at her father’s music school learning to read music and playing four-handed on the piano with him. She composed her first longer work at the age of nine. This was also the time when she first became seriously ill and was sent to the tuberculosis sanatorium in Star˘ Smrkovec. From that time, she constantly had an elevated temperature a signal that something in her body was not well. After completing primary school, Kaprálová chose to study at a conservatory, but she unexpectedly chose the combination composing and conducting. At the time it was normal that if a woman wanted to make a living in music, she could either be a teacher in a music school or a répétiteur in opera or operetta. As her father had a good knowledge of the professional possibilities in the field, he tried to talk her out of it. But – as has already been said – she was a stubborn young girl. She was accepted to study at the Brno Conservatory, where she developed her interest in composing to the full. She completed her studies in 1935 with a piano concerto that she herself also conducted. Music critics began to write about a girl with an exceptional musical talent. But Vítûzslava Kaprálová wanted more – she wanted to attend the composing master school in Prague, where the composer Vítûzslav Novák taught. She moved to Prague and discovered a new cultural environment: concerts, exhibitions, theatres. Here for the first time, she was completely independent and had to watch each and every crown piece in her purse. She was sometimes forced to make a choice that only someone with a similar passion would be able to understand: buy new sheet music or perhaps something to eat? However, she would write home things like: “I’ve settled in and it’s pretty good here. I don’t even have to use the heat because the kitchen is in the next room and they always let some of the heat into my room. My piano playing is very good and all in all it’s less expensive than last year. My breakfast is cacao and two large bread rolls that I spread some butter on. I have mum’s morning snacks, lunch for about 37 Vítûzslava Kaprálová conducting the Brno Radio Orchestra six crowns from the lady across the hall. In the evening, it’s a cup of tea that I make myself using my iron.” spring, she began to see Jifií, son of the painter Alfons Mucha. They quickly became close friends. In France, Jifií Mucha took advantage of his father’s previous acquaintances to organize social events for Czech refugees and was in contact with other artists who had remained outside Czechoslovakia. They would meet at the well-known café Les Deux Magots; another place where the Czech community would gather was the Café de Flore. This is also where figures such as Picasso or Jean Cocteau were regulars – exclusive company for a young artist. In Paris Kaprálová completed the master school in 1937 and applied for a state scholarship to go to Paris, where MartinÛ was waiting for her. She was introduced to the Paris cultural scene and in one of her letters home she wrote, “Yesterday I was at a concert by Triton, where they played Bach, Honegger, Bartók and someone else, but I just can remember who. We then went to meet them (I guess they always do that here) and ·afránek introduced me to a lot of people just to mention a few – Honegger, Milhauda, Flor. Schmidt (is that how it’s spelled?), I can’t remember who else. Schmidt was very kind to me and said that it’s quite charming that I’m composing, I said ‘Of course’ and ‘You’re just saying that’ and otherwise limited myself to ‘oui’ and ‘enchantée’.” The letter is good evidence of her growing selfconfidence, which was of course entirely justified. The premier of what is today her most famous composition, the Military Sinfonietta, was held in November 1937. Kaprálová dedicated the piece to Edvard Bene‰ as the supreme commander of the Czechoslovak military and for this the president personally thanked her. The composer was quite proud of herself and her compositions were now being played at home and abroad. At Christmas of that eventful year of 1939, she conducted her Prélude de Noël for French radio. She received standing ovations at the Contemporary Music Festival in London. Her Military Sinfonietta opened the festival to thunderous applause as the audience called this young conductor back for eight curtain calls. Bohuslav MartinÛ, who had accompanied Kaprálová, sent her parents the following telegram: “Concert went very well. Vitulka conducted like a champion and it was a great success, will send newspaper articles, my congratulations and warmest regards.” All her men The clouds of the protectorate were drawing over Czechoslovakia, but in France the nightmare of war seemed far 38 A wedding without a honeymoon away. Vítûzslava Kaprálová continued to compose and experienced more romantic interludes. In March 1938 she wrote her parents that she had received two offers of marriage. One of her suitors was a certain Dr Hauner, who she wasn’t really interested in. The other was from an engineer named Rudolf Kopec. They had met at a singing club for Czech compatriots. He was much more suitable for her in terms of age and in contrast with the tender MartinÛ, was not so demonstratively emotional. In the end, it was politics that came between them. After Munich, Kopec treated Bene‰ as a traitor, while Kaprálová still considered him to be the president of the country and she took the occupation of Czechoslovakia quite hard. She returned home briefly, but MartinÛ continued to write her from France and arranged a further scholarship for her. She left Czechoslovakia in January 1939. She then composed an elegy dedicated to the memory of Karel âapek as well as other works. In the While she would sometimes stay at Jifií Mucha’s, she was still corresponding with Rudolf Kopec. Bohuslav MartinÛ hopes were also still alive – she had promised him that they would tour America together. Jifií Mucha tried to resolve this strange situation by offering his hand in marriage to Vítûzlava. But because he was to become an army officer, he had to leave for military training in the south of France. He returned on a brief leave in April 1940, when he married Vitka, as he called her. Jifií, however, had to return immediately to his military camp and he waited there for his wife to arrive. She kept putting off the journey and what’s more in one letter, she wrote that she had been to see a doctor, who had recommended surgery. As a former medic, this seemed strange to Jifií and so he once again asked for a leave and went to see his wife. He found her in hospital. He then took her south with him, where she was hospitalized in Montpelier – hospitalized but not treated. No one seemed to know why she had an elevated temperature, suffered pain and seemed to be wasting away before their eyes. Eventually the doctors decided to operate, but they were unable to find anything. It was said that the tuberculosis had probably spread throughout her entire body. She was only twenty-five years old. Barbora Osvaldová Instinkt magazine Photos: ArcoDiva, www.opusmusicum.cz, Podivné lásky (1988) by Jifií Mucha, Vítûzslava Kaprálová (1958) by Jifií Macek Front (l to r): Václav Kaprál, Líba HouÏviãková, Mrs Kaprálová Back: Vítûzslava Kaprálová, Bohuslav MartinÛ