Nov 2011 - Darrol Shillingburg

Transcription

Master Gardener Monthly Magazine
• Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Service
• U.S. Department of Agriculture
• NMSU College of Agricultural, Consumer and
Environmental Sciences
Doña Ana County Extension Office
530 North Church Street, Las Cruces, NM 88001
Phone: (575) 525-6649 Fax: (575) 525-6652
Editor: Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener
Newsletters can be downloaded at the NMSU website: http://aces.nmsu.edu/damg
 November 2011
Volume 12, Issue #11
Plant-of-the-Month
Contents:
• PLANT-OF-THE-MONTH
Next Month: Acacia Trees
& Gaillardia (Blanketflower)
• Claret-Cup Hedgehog/Cactus
• Demonstration/Teaching Garden
Partnership With Las Cruces
The Chinese Pistache tree is regarded by
many knowledgeable horticulturists as one of
the most beautiful and easy to maintain
shade trees for the Southwest and Gulf
Coast regions of the U.S. This very desirable
and hardy tree is the first shade tree to
receive the coveted "Earth-Kind" designation
from the Texas Agricultural Extension
Service for its high levels of genetic
resistance to insect and disease problems.
The many positive attributes of the
Chinese Pistache tree are:
7
7
7
7 & 13
• November Honey-Do List
8-9
• How To Rebloom Poinsettia
• Reblooming Christmas &
Thanksgiving Cacti
10
10
• Gardeners’ Guide To Mulching Right 11
• Six Great Choices for Mulch
12
• Growing Herbs In Pots (book)
13
• Wildlife: Burrowing Owls
14-15
• Weed Watch: Pepperweed
16-17
• 3 Step Garden Container Cleanup
17
• Growing Pistachios in New Mexico
18
• Veggies A-Z: Cilantro/Coriander
19-20
• Conference T-Shirt Design Contest
• 2012 State MG Conference
• November MG Birthdays
• MG Matters
• Hotline Assignments
21
21
21
22-23
24
The name of our Newsletter has
changed. As of July 2011, it is called
“Master Gardener Monthly Magazine”.
Editor: Ann Shine-Ring
(Pistacia chinensis)
5-6
6
• Nov. Lunch & Learn Presentation
• Thanks for the Goodies
• Timeline for Nov. Magazine Articles
• Community Garden Rules &
Operational Guidelines
CHINESE PISTACHE
Page
1-5
• Wonderful shade tree with vibrant fall color—produces spectacular red, red-orange fall color
• Medium-sized to large deciduous ornamental hardwood tree that will fit into larger home
landscapes; tolerant of both urban and rural conditions
• Superior drought, heat and wind tolerance once tree is established (after 2-3 growing seasons)
• Hardy shade tree that is practically disease and pest-free (but susceptible to Texas root rot)
• Remarkable tolerance to aridity, heat and alkaline soil
• Lustrous dark green foliage and has an umbrella-shaped top that provides excellent shade on
hot summer days
• Grows at maturity to a spread of 30-35 feet up to a height of 40-50 feet high
Article Continues on Page 2
Master Gardener Hotline Client Data
(September 28 to October 27, 2011)
# Total Contacts
# Telephone Calls
# Emails
# Issues Addressed
50
28
0
50
Geographic Area
Las Cruces
21
Alamogordo
1
Doña Ana
1
Mesilla
2
Mesquite
2
Sunland Park 1
Subject of Inquiry
Fertilizers
Herbicides
Insects
Irrigation/Water
Lawns
Pests (gophers, mice)
3
2
6
3
2
2
Pruning
1
Shrubs
10
Trees
12
Vegetables
5
Weeds
1
Misc. (mulch & 3
pond plants)
Thank you to Master Gardeners Joan Lane, Janie Elliot & Valice Raffi for collecting this data.
New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. Doña Ana County, NMSU and USDA cooperating.
Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—November 2011
Page 2 of 24
Chinese Pistache Tree—Continued from Front Page
Judith Phillips, states that the Chinese Pistache because of
its deep taproot makes a terrific shade tree when mature
because it can handle our hot, dry desert conditions in NM.
The Chinese Pistache is a part of the genus Pistacia in the
Cashew family, Anacardiaceae, which is native to central and
western China, Taiwan and the Philippines where it is found on
hill and mountain forests in rocky soils. Pistacia are among the
most frost-tolerant species, tolerating temperatures to 10°F.
In China, oil from Pistache tree seeds is used for biodiesel
production. Its wood is used for furniture and it yields a yellow
dye. It is also used in classical Chinese Garden design.
The Chinese Pistache is dioecious—its plants are either maleproducing pollen (with little or no allergenic qualities) or femaleproducing attractive (but inedible) small, round berry-shaped fruit
(shown below) that appears in clusters and are very attractive to
birds. In the summer, the female Pistache (if there are male
trees nearby) produces panicles of inconspicuous red dish
flowers that are followed by small green berries that turn red to
reddish-purple in the fall. This fruit is a small red drupe, turning
blue when ripe, and contains a single seed.
While some consider these berries a clean-up problem, the
facts are that the vast majority of those seeds, which are about
1/4” in diameter, are sterile. The fruit is actually described as an
asset—scarlet at first, then turning reddish-purple. All of the red
berries are sterile. The relatively few fertile black berries are the
bird’s choice—keeping out-of-place seedlings to a minimum.
Female Pistache trees are biennial bearers, producing every
other year. So, even if there is concern about these berries, you
would only have to worry every 2 years!
The Chinese Pistache is a close relative of the pistachio nut
tree (Pistacia vera), but is much hardier. Its wood is extremely
hard, rot-resistant and durable, and is also very decay-resistant,
which helps protect trees from wind, ice and vandal injury. This
tree is very popular in California where it is used as understock
for commercial pistachio growers.
Pistaches are also related to the deciduous sumacs (Rhus
species). Not only are their leaves similar to sumac, Chinese
Pistache have the same luminous orange-red autumn color.
Although young trees may not grow symmetrically, in time they
become regular and rounded up to 50 feet tall and nearly as
wide. Chinese Pistache is the only tree—aside from Shantung
Maples—adapted to our dry and hot desert conditions that will
provide bright red autumn color.
Chinese Pistache Tree FACTS
Family: Anacardiaceae Genus: Pistacia Species: Chinensis
Category:
Ornamental Shade Tree
Other Names: Pistacia formosana, Pistacia philippinensis, Rhus argyi
or Rhus gummifera
Size:
Height 40-50 feet tall, 30-35 feet wide
Shape:
Broad, spreading form tree with a round and
symmetrical crown on older specimens when grown in
full sun; can become misshapen with too much shade
Fruit:
Found only on female trees; consists of clusters of
1/4” diameter round green berries which turn red to
reddish-purple in fall; while inedible for humans, fruit is
relished by birds; berry clusters also make excellent
table decorations.
Leaf Color:
Lustrous dark green in summer; beautiful orange to
red in fall
Foliage:
Comprised of 1-foot long leaves with 4-inch, narrow,
paired leaflets; medium to fine-textured foliage (an
asset in smaller landscapes) that creates a lighttextured shade pattern; foliage remains an attractive,
deep green color during the growing season, even in
the rocky, highly alkaline, and other undesirable soils
Bark Color:
Dark brown; shallow ridge and furrows when older;
orange lenticels on the twigs
Bloom Time:
April and May; its green blooms are not showy
Planting Time: Spring; but fall planting is best (September-November)
Growth Rate:
Grows quickly in full sun to partial shade on
moderately fertile, well-drained soils: can withstand
heat and drought extremely well; very acceptable
growth rate with 2-3 feet of growth possible each year
with good cultural management
Sun Exposure: Grows best in full sun—and is intolerant of shade
Hardiness:
Down to Zone 5; can tolerate 10°F to 0°F degrees
Water Needs: Regular watering required until well established—at
least two years; then it is drought-tolerant, needing
only occasional deep watering.
Soil Issues:
Grows in clay, loam, or sand in wide range of soil pH
FACTS Continued on Page 3
Chinese Pistache Tree—Continued from Page 2
Page 3 of 24
FACTS—Continued from Page 2
WHEN TO PLANT:
…Young Chinese Pistache trees can be planted in spring or fall,
but fall planting (September through November) is best.
WHERE TO PLANT:
… Select a planting site in full sun, that is at least 15 feet from your
home to provide sufficient room for future growth.
… Deep, fertile soils are best. Avoid sites with shallow or heavy,
caliche-rich soils. They must have full sun and do best in welldrained soil.
Pistaches tolerate a wide range of soils, some alkalinity, and
can live a very long time (several centuries). All trees should be
planted in a hole three to five times the width and only as deep
as the root ball. No amendments should be incorporated into the
soil. The soil surface should be mulched to a depth of two to
three inches and mulch should not touch the trunk. The soil
should be allowed to dry on the surface between irrigations and
never be soggy. Waterlogged soils are not suitable for Chinese
Pistache trees.
… Mulch immediately after planting; beginning early the following
spring, make light but frequent applications of fertilizer.
Chinese Pistache Tree FACTS
Disease:
REGULAR MAINTENANCE:
… Water the tree well after planting and every 3 or 4 days for the
first three weeks. Drip irrigation is effective for the first two or
three years after planting, until established. Mature trees should
be watered deeply every 14 days in the summer and once a
month in the winter.
… Apply a slow-release fertilizer in the fall and in spring for the first
five years.
… Pistaches will not tolerate "wet feet." So if you are battling a
heavy clay soil that doesn't drain well, it's best to construct and
plant in a raised bed 6 inches high, 4 feet in diameter.
… With your fingertip, check moisture of the root ball weekly. Water
only when top inch of soil is dry (this may be weekly during a dry
summer but only rarely during a wet winter).
Pests/Other:
Danger:
PROPER PRUNING:
Seed Collecting:
After planting, some Pistaches grow long and lanky for the first
few "adolescent" years. A Pistache can be modified with proper
pruning in January or February as follows:
… You should develop an umbrella framework with a trunk 6 feet
tall with 4 to 6 spoke-like branches growing upward. To
accomplish this, look on the trunk for a spot about 5 to 6 feet
above the ground where you’ll see a whorl of small, twiggy
branches. Cut the top out of the tree about 3 to 4 inches above
this whorl of branches.
… In the absence of any branches on the trunk, simply cut the top
out at the 6-foot level. After the topping, the tree will force all its
energy into branching. Four to six branches will appear near the
cut and begin growth.
… If you have a two to five year old Pistache that has not naturally
branched and is now "long and lanky", the tree will require more
drastic pruning. In January or February, prune to top out at the 6foot level. Do not try to develop a central leader (one central
trunk).
Precautions:
Other Issues:
Wildlife:
Propagation:
Resistant to oak root fungus; susceptible to
the root fungus that kills Russian Olive
trees, as are all members of the sumac
family; also susceptible to Texas root rot; if
tree is watered or fertized excessively, it
may develop Verticillium Wilt.
Pest-resistant
Handling plant may cause skin irritation or
allergic reaction
Stake young trees and prune them for the
first few years to develop head high enough
to walk under
Seasonal litter; no thorns
Used by xeriscape gardeners as a critical
addition for wildlife; its seeds provide food
for small rodents and birds while the flowers
provide food for insects.
From seed; direct sow after last frost
Unblemished fruit must be significantly
overripe before harvesting seed; clean and
dry seeds
Landscape Uses: Planted for its impressive fall colors;
spectacular fall color in shades of orange,
red-orange and even crimson; also one of
the most dependable sources of fall color in
the lower South; reliable tree for parks,
street, lawn, patio, or garden corner.
“Red Push” Chinese Pistache Tree:
Also check out the “Red Push” Chinese Pistache, a hybrid
between P. atlantica and P. integerrima. (Photo shown on Page
4). It is a long-lived deciduous tree with a moderate growth rate
that with maturity develops into a broad, spreading crown. It
grows to a height of 30-40 feet tall and has a spread of 30-40
feet. Its leaves are compound with 10-16 leaflets that emerge
with a red tint. Its leaves mature to green, but fall brings another
change with shades of red, orange and yellow. Plant it in full
sun and provide moderate irrigation to increase the growth rate.
Page 4 of 24
Chinese Pistache Tree—Continued from Page 3
PROPER PRUNING (Continued)
If there is a down side to the Chinese Pistache, it is that young
trees appear spindly and awkward. Trees planted from five and
fifteen-gallon containers will probably need staking and will grow
slowly for the first three to five years after planting. Some structural
pruning may also be necessary in the early years to develop an
even canopy and proper branch spacing. Once they are
established, these trees can grow two to three feet per year.
To more quickly obtain a thicker, stronger trunk after pruning,
use the "trashy trunk" method of pruning. This method refers to
leaving all branches and leaves on the trunk from top to bottom.
The extra foliage and branches produce much needed energy for
the trunk. The results are a greatly expanded trunk for greater
strength and vigor. As the branches near the bottom of the trunk
become 1” in diameter, they can be removed without permanently
scarring the trunk. After the second year of growth, always keep
the height of the tree 2/3 in foliage and 1/3 in bare trunk.
After the Pistache gets through its "adolescent" lanky years, it
develops an oval to rounded form with an umbrella-like crown
somewhat similar to the American Elm, but much smaller in stature.
Staking will probably be necessary on a newly planted Chinese
Pistache tree. The most common staking method uses two wooden
stakes driven into the ground on opposite sides of the tree. Tie the
tree to the stakes with soft tree ties (or panty hose). If using wire to
tie the tree to the stakes, use soft rubber garden hose to protect the
tree from damage from the wire. Allow the tree to have some
movement as this allows the trunk to become stronger.
BUYING TIPS:
Although considered by many experts to be near perfect for this
area of the U.S., the Chinese Pistache does have some minor
faults. First, young Pistaches sold in 5-gallon containers are often
rather awkward and gangling in appearance. Rest assured that
after 5-6 years of tender loving care in your landscape, this "ugly
duckling" will have been magically transformed as its canopy
develops and begins to mature.
Secondly, shaping and pruning your tree when it's young may be
necessary to encourage proper branch spacing and structure and
for best crown development. Even without such pruning however,
the vast majority of Pistache will eventually make very nicely
shaped trees on their own.
Trees 6-8 feet in height, with a trunk diameter of 1.5 inches, are
probably the ideal size for most homeowners to purchase.
There can be seedling variation in fall color of Pistache, with
color intensity normally ranging from good to spectacular. Thus,
shop in late October, early November when most Pistache are
exhibiting their fall color. At this time, you can easily select a
specimen with the most attractive foliage coloration.
With time and proper care, the Chinese Pistache tree will
become more beautiful over time. Its canopy develops slowly and
takes four to six years to mature. Prune to shape and remove dead
wood in the winter, when it has lost most of its foliage.
“Red Push” Chinese Pistache Tree
CHINESE PISTACHE TREE
—Article References—
(The) Chinese Pistache Tree: History, Planting and Care by at link:
http://plantanswers.com/garden_column/feb03/2.htm
Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis) Arbor Day Foundation at link:
http://www.arborday.org/treeguide/treeDetail.cfm?id=112
Chinese Pistache in “Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert”,
Produced by the Arizona Municipal Waterusers Assn. 2010
Chinese Pistache in Tree New Mexico at link:
http://www.treenm.com/education/chinesepistache.shtml
Chinese Pistache Pistacia chinensis (Texas SuperStar Tree) at link:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/cemap/pistache/pistache.html
Chinese Pistache Plant Files at Dave’s Garden at link:
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/57160/
Chinese Pistache Tree at link:
http://www.horticultureunlimited.com/landscape-plants/chinesepistache.html
Chinese Pistache Tree by Jeff Schalau, County Director & Agent,
Arizona Cooperative Extension, Yavapai County (April 2004) at
http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/chinesepistac
he.html
Chinese Pistache: Shade Tree Superstar For Texas on link
http://texassuperstar.com/plants/pistache/pistachep.html
New Mexico Gardener’s Guide, Revised Edition, by Judith Phillips,
2001, Cool Springs Press
Pistacia Chinensis on Wikipedia at link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pistacia_chinensis
Pistacia Chinensis and Pistacia x “Red Push” in Mountain States
Wholesale Nursery Catalog
Research & compilation of information for this article provided by
Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener
Page 5 of 24
CLARET-CUP HEDGEHOG
(Echinocereus Triglochidiatus)
The Claret-Cup Hedgehog or Cactus is a member of the Cactaceae
(Cactus) Family, in the genus Echinocereus (Columbar Hedgehog Cactus).
In addition to its botanical name, Claret Cup is also known as: King’s Cup
Cactus and Mojave Mound Cactus. This plant comes from the Western
U.S. and from Mexico. German physician and botanist Dr. G. Engelmann
(1809-1884) first described it in the 1800’s.
There are nearly 50 species of hedgehog cactus growing in the
southwestern U.S. and northern Mexico, with some growing at fairly high
elevations in Utah and Colorado, where they are subject to freezing
temperatures. All have cylindrical, ribbed bodies in clumps; showy red,
yellow, purple, or white flowers with many rows of petals; and fleshy fruit,
edible in some species. Although cold hardy in most zones, and often seen
in collections, they are used in landscaping chiefly in desert or interior
mountain gardens.
“Hedgehogs have flowers that last only a few weeks, but they are so
spectacular that even gardeners who thought they didn’t like cactus find
themselves wondering where they might plan a few”. (J. Phillips)
Phillips states that, “The Claret-Cup grows to 12 inches in height and 18
inches across, has green to bluish-green stems to 3-inches in diameter
with 9-10 ribs and spines to 2.5 inches in length. This amazing plant
typically forms clusters, is sometimes branched and is relatively small. In
addition, its pulp is “soft-fleshed”. Its beautiful, bright and relatively longlasting flowers are spiny, as are its fruits”. The plant is densely spiny and
somewhat woolly. Spines fall off readily or seasonally. The fruit is juicy and
edible with deciduous spines.
Claret Cup grows in these crowded clumps (shown below) in open,
rocky areas at elevations between 3,000–9,000 feet.
Claret Cup blooms between May and July and produces 3 1/2 -inch red
to red-orange cup-shaped flowers with a bright green stigma in the center
to 1.5 inches in width. Its flowers are followed by a 1-inch fruit with inedible
pink to red fruit. Article Continues on Page 6
Category:
Habit:
Claret-Cup FACTS
Cactus and Succulents
Grows in clumps up to 1 ft. tall, 3 ft. wide, with
hundreds of spiny, 2- to 3-inch diameter stems.
Description Brilliant scarlet flowers bloom atop spiny
cylindrical stems, in old plants many stems in a
hemispherical clump.
Flowers:
Up to 3.5” wide, with many petals
Bloom Color: Red to red-orange
Height:
6”-12"
Stems: 3”-4" thick; 9-10 ribs
Spacing:
12” up to 36” Spines: Clusters of 2-16 on ribs
Fruit:
1/2”-1" long, plump, red, with a few clusters of
spines that eventually drop
Flowering:
April-May (early summer)
Habitat:
Rocky desert slopes or dry woodland in
mountains; creosote bush scrub, Joshua tree
woodland, Pinyon-Juniper woodland
Range:
SE California, east to Southern Utah, Central
Colorado, West Texas; south into No. Mexico.
Sun & Water: Full Sun; drought-tolerant; xeriscape-suitable
Danger:
Plant has spines or sharp edges--use extreme
caution when handling
Soil pH:
6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic); 6.6 to 7.5 (neutral);
7.6 to 7.8 (mildly alkaline)
Propagation: By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs
(including offsets); from woody stem cuttings;
allow cut surface to callous over before planting;
from seed; direct sow after last frost
From Seed: Allow unblemished fruit to ripen; clean and dry
seeds; unblemished fruit must be significantly
overripe before harvesting seed; clean and dry
seeds; properly cleaned, seed can be
successfully stored
Discussion Among the most beautiful cacti; large plants with
breathtaking mounds of scarlet. Stems are highly
variable, often with two strikingly different forms
growing in the same area.
Landscape: Claret Cup grows large enough to be appreciated
at a distance as well as close up. Good garden
companions to include: desert zinnia, gazania,
moss rose, blue spurge, creeping baby’s breath,
iceplants, fairy duster, lavender, desert sages
and shadescale. (J. Phillips)
Claret-Cup Hedgehog—Continued from Page 5
Page 6 of 24
Demonstration/Teaching Garden Partnership
With the City of Las Cruces
Site of Future Community Garden @ Gomez Park, Nov. 2011
When, Where & How to Plant:
Judith Phillips recommends growing hedgehog cactus, “… from seeds
sown in very warm, gritty soil—the timing depends on your elevation. To
transplant nursery-grown specimens, loosen the soil well so that plants
root out easily with settling any deeper that they were previously
growing. Cacti grow and flower best in full sun. It may take five years for
seedlings to bloom for the first time”.
Growing Tips:
Be sure that the soil is aerated and will dry out quickly and water
young plants every few weeks during the summer to a depth of 12
inches to speed their growth. You can water established cacti
monthly in the summer—if at all. The application of slow-release
fertilizer in spring will help speed the growth of small plants for the
first year or two after being set up in your garden. However, too
much fertilizer will contribute to rot, so use it sparingly.
Cacti Care:
Cacti are low-maintenance and rarely bothered by insects or
disease. However, their spines can trap leaf litter which should be
cleared away promptly in order to prevent shading the plants too
much or condensing moisture and starting a rotting problem,
according to Phillips.
Cactus: The Most Beautiful Species and Their Care, by Elizabeth
Manke, 1998
Claret Cup Cactus (Echinocereus triglochidiatus) on
http://www.toddshikingguide.com/FloraFauna/Flora194.htm
Claret Cup Cactus on Sunset Magazine’s Plantfinder Database at link:
http://plantfinder.sunset.com/sunset/plantdetails.jsp;jsessionid=705869EEDC66A68F4ACCD0AD7706C245?i
d=1035
Claret Cup Cactus PlantFiles: Claret Cup Cactus, Strawberry Cactus,
Crimson Hedgehog Cactus, Echinocereus triglochidiatus on Dave’s
Garden, link: http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/55534/#b
Claret-Cup Cactus (Echinocereus triglochidiatus) on eNature.com, link:
http://www.enature.com/fieldguides/detail.asp?recNum=WF1788
Hedgehog Cactus (Echinocereus Species) in New Mexico Gardner’s
Guide, Revised Edition, by Judith Phillips, 2001
Hedgehog/Claret Cup_Mojave Mound Cactus, Kingcup Cactus
(Echinocereus triglochidiatus) on DesertUSA.com at link:
http://www.desertusa.com/flowers/hedgehog-claret-cup.html
Since we are considering entering into a community garden
agreement with the City, I thought it timely to publish the current
Guidelines for all city-sponsored community gardens (Guidelines
are provided on Pages 7 & 13 of this MG Magazine).
Master Gardeners’ involvement will be starting and maintaining
demonstration plots within the community garden site and
participating in the beginning gardening classes offered through the
City’s Recreation Department. The gardening focus will be on
growing edibles, flowers and herbs and does not include those
other wonderful gardening subjects that are part of our knowledge
base. The focus may expand with time and interest.
Master Gardeners will not be charged the annual rental fee for
two demonstration plots, but we may need to enter a contractual
agreement with the city - same as others renting community garden
plots. Some modifications of the guidelines may be necessary to
accommodate a winter gardening demonstration or garden plots
used specifically for teaching classes.
City Parks and Recreation plans to have the community garden
space available for planting by March 15, 2012. There may be an
opportunity for us to access that space earlier to facilitate our own
planning and plot development.
The schedule for gardening classes through the Recreation
Department has not been set yet (and may partly be determined by
our recommendations); however, we do need to have a plan and
materials to address that part of our commitment. Planning,
planting and maintenance of the demonstration beds will be entirely
our responsibility.
To facilitate the planning of both demonstration beds and
education development, I will setup an email group for the Project
so that we can communicate, meet and creatively collaborate on
the best approaches to this exciting new opportunity for service to
our public.
Thanks for considering the possibilities and reading the official
guidelines. The demonstration/teaching garden will be an agenda
item at our November meeting and there will be a sign-up sheet
available or you may email me directly to be included.
If you have comments or concerns about gardening within this
environment please let me know by email or in person.
Regards,
Darrol Shillingburg, Community Gardening Coordinator
Email: [email protected]
Page 7 of 24
COMMUNITY GARDEN RULES & OPERATIONAL GUIDELINES
BRANIGAN MEMORIAL LIBRARY
“LUNCH & LEARN” PRESENTATION
Date:
Time:
Thursday, November 17
12:00-1:00 p.m.
Place:
Branigan Memorial Library
Location: Roadrunner Meeting Room
Speaker: Tim Lawton
Topic:
BINOCULARS, WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR?
Synopsis: This short talk will introduce you to basic
principles of binocular optics and show what
features to consider when choosing a pair of
binoculars.
No MG credit will be given.
Information provided by
Sylvia Hacker, Certified Master Gardener
MANY THANKS FOR THE GOODIES
We appreciate your thoughtfulness
November Goodies
Janie Elliot
Ina Goldberg
Ann Shine-Ring
December Goodies
Barb Sallach
Jeanene Cathey
Linda Morgan
The deadline for submitting articles and
information for the December 2011 MG Monthly
Magazine will be Tuesday, November 29th.
Contact Info: Ann Shine-Ring, Editor
[email protected]
(575) 640-7177
SUBJECT: Community Gardening
PURPOSE: The City of Las Cruces offers local citizens use of public
property for community gardening activities. Gardeners are encouraged
to plant vegetables and other annual plants. This policy is intended to
establish Rules and Operational Guidelines for the allocation and use of
Community Garden(s) (Garden) to ensure safe and equitable use.
APPLICABILITY: This policy applies to users and visitors of all City
designated community gardens.
POLICY:
A. Assignment of Garden Plots
1. The application deadline for gardeners is February 28, of each
year. First priority for garden plots will be given to local neighborhood gardeners. After this date, any remaining plots will be
assigned on a first-come, first-served, community wide basis.
2. All gardening participants must be registered. Registration is
accepted at Parks and Recreation Section.
3. The annual fee is $15 per plot. A fee waiver is available for very
low-income individuals as established by the HUD income
guidelines for the Las Cruces area.
4. People with disabilities or special needs will be assigned plots
closer to entrance gates and water sources, if available.
5. Plot leases will run for one season. A gardening season is
March 1-November 30.
6. During the gardening season, any plot that becomes untended
(overgrown weeds, not watered, not harvested) for more than four
weeks will be reassigned. Gardeners wishing to cancel should
notify the Parks and Recreation Section office at (575) 541-2553.
7. Plots must be fully utilized. If your plot is too large, share with a
friend, contact the City for a plot-sharing partner, or plant a cover
crop in the open area. All participants involved in the use of a plot
must be registered with the City Parks and Recreation Section.
B. Gardening Procedures
1. Opening day for gardening will begin March 1 of each year. Cleanup must be complete by November 30. See Guideline #B-7 for
definition of clean-up. An annual work party will be scheduled
around November 15, each year to ensure clean-up.
2. Gardeners will have five weeks from the opening date to begin
work on their gardens. After that date, plots that are neglected
will be reassigned. During the gardening season; any plot that
becomes untended (overgrown weeds, not watered, not harvested)
for more than four weeks will be reassigned. Gardeners wishing to
cancel should notify the Parks and Recreation Section office at
(575) 541-2553.
3. All plot preparation is the responsibility of its designated user. You
are encouraged to enrich your plot’s soil on a yearly basis.
4. Gardeners are responsible for cultivating, watering, and general
care of the plots. Please respect adjacent plots by eliminating all
weeds before the seeding stage. Gardeners are also responsible
for weeding any pathway bordering the gardeners’ leased plot.
Walkways and paths are to be clear of all debris and tools at all
times.
Page 8 of 24
Dixie’s Honey-Do List for November
Much of our suggested garden task information comes directly from Month-by-Month
Gardening in the Desert Southwest by Mary Irish (2002). We wanted you to know that
this is an outstanding gardening resource book. Also, some of our recommendations
come from Southwest Planting Tips by the Month and the Tucson Gardening Calendar
both of which are produced by the Tucson Botanical Gardens.
GENERAL: Begin to check weather forecasts for freeze warnings. Be prepared to cover and protect sensitive plants when
temperatures dip below 28°F. Also, remember, “Do not prune in November!”
ORNAMENTALS
• Finish planting spring flowering bulbs. If you plant tulips, give them a northern
exposure and light shade, if possible.
• Fertilize bulbs and cool-season annuals lightly with a 1-2-1 ratio fertilizer.
• Continue planting winter-hardy shrubs, flowers, and wildflower seeds
• Protect tender plants from freezing temperatures with frost cloth, blankets, boxes,
or other lightweight materials.
• After the first killing freeze, cut back stems of cannas and dahlias to the ground
and discard the leaves.
• Sow winter annual wildflower seeds and water them in.
FRUIT, NUT, CITRUS & SHADE TREES
• Plan your pruning activities. Flag limbs for major
winter pruning, but prune dead, diseased, or damaged limbs anytime.
• Wait until late winter to prune cold-tender plants.
• Begin harvesting pecans as shucks split with freezing temperatures.
• Water established trees once a month after hard freezes begin. Water newly planted
material weekly or as needed.
• If you didn’t apply dormant oil late last month, then do so now to control insects that
overwinter in crevices of bark.
• Harvest Mexican limes.
VEGETABLES, FRUIT & HERBS
• Plant head lettuce after mid-month.
• Continue planting garlic.
• It’s time to plant rhubarb.
• Finish pruning Mediterranean herbs.
LAWNS / TURF / ORNAMENTAL GRASSES
• Warm-season grasses are going dormant. Do not fertilize and reduce irrigation frequency to once
or twice a month after first hard freeze. When irrigating, water deeply (to a depth of 6-8 inches).
• Wait until spring to ‘scalp’ warm season grasses. After this task, tune up lawn mower.
• Continue fall management schedule for cool-season turf. Water regularly to a depth of 6–8
inches and raise mower height to provide extra frost protection for crown.
Page 9 of 24
Dixie’s Honey-Do List for November—Continued
ROSES
• Do not prune roses until late January or early February.
• Continue deadheading roses regularly. Remove any dead or diseased canes.
• Be sure to keep the area around rose plants clean of debris and fallen leaves,
particularly if powdery mildew has been a problem.
• In mild winter conditions, extend watering roses to every ten days depending
on the weather.
• Begin to plan which new roses you’d like to plant in your garden in late March
or early April after the danger of freezing has passed.
CACTI & SUCCULENTS
• Bring potted succulents indoors when in doubt about their cold-sensitivity.
• Continue to plant cool-season succulents like aloes, gastera, and dudleya.
• Native succulents can be planted this month, but be careful that they are not overwatered
through the winter. Do not plant cold-tender succulents this month.
• Water cool season succulents every 2 to 3 weeks while temperatures are cool; water warm
season succulents every 5 to 6 weeks.
• Late this month, Christmas cactus should be showing flower buds. Once buds are set and
are about 1/2 inches long, gradually move the plant into more light over a week or two.
Plants will grow best in a spot with bright, indirect light that is cool and away from drafts and
hot spots like a fireplace, heater vent, the top of a television or refrigerator, or in a westfacing window. Remember, sudden changes in temperature or light will cause the buds to
fall off. (Be sure to read the article entitled, “Reblooming Christmas & Thanksgiving Cacti
on Page 10)
• Fertilize any winter-growing succulents growing in a pot once a month with a water-soluble fertilizer at half the strength
recommended for houseplants. Use a fertilizer that has a low-nitrogen content.
• Mites can invade aloes and cause a distorted, ruined-looking central bud. There is virtually no cure for this infrequent
problem other than to destroy the plant before it can infect other aloes.
PESTS
• If you have agaves that have been infected with agave snout weevil, you will experience sudden drooping of leaves with
only the tight bud erect on the plant. If this has occurred, the plant is dead and should be removed. Prevention is difficult
and there is no cure for this weevil, so replant with a less-susceptible species of agave.
• If any diseases have ravaged your prickly pear or cholla, cut these plants back severely this month to an uninfected
portion of the plant. Keep the plants well watered to encourage new growth.
• It is always important to correctly identify any insect you suspect may have caused damage to your plants. If you do not
know what the insect is, collect one in a plastic bag or small jar and take it to the Doña Ana County Cooperative
Extension Office located at 530 N. Church in Las Cruces (located just north of the Main Post Office downtown.)
MISCELLANEOUS
• Renew mulch especially around tender plants but keep the mulch 2 inches away from the crown of the plant to ensure the
plant’s root get needed moisture.
• If you haven’t done this already, remove and store any drip timers and drip lines for the winter. Be sure to remove the
batteries in the timers, too.
• Winterize drip irrigation systems. Install flush valves that keep water out of irrigation tubing when system is not in use.
• Collect and/or mow up fallen leaves and add them to your compost pile.
• Clean and store garden tools using steel wool on shovels, hoes, and spading forks, then oil lightly to prevent rust. Use
linseed oil on wooden handles. (See Page 17 for 3 Steps for Cleaning Garden Containers).
• Insulate hose bibs as well as exposed PVC water pipes.
• Drain unused hoses.
Page 10 of 24
HOW TO REBLOOM YOUR POINSETTIA
Joel R. Poinset, the first U.S. Ambassador to Mexico, discovered this
native plant while on a trip to southern Mexico and introduced it to the U.S. in
1825. Since then the Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) has become the
most common December holiday plant and now sports over a dozen different
colors.
Many people shy away from having Poinsettia in their homes because
they believe the plant is toxic to humans and animals. Enough for ‘old wives
tales.’ Over the past thirty years or so, repeated laboratory testing has
shown that Poinsettia is NOT toxic to humans or animals, so get one this
year and enjoy its beauty throughout the holidays.
The Poinsettia is native to a semi-arid environment (such as Las Cruces)
so it likes bright direct sunlight and semi-dry soil. In the home environment
avoid direct ‘air drafts’ as it will desiccate the leaves.
Treat Poinsettias well and they will give your 4 to 6 weeks of enjoyment.
For you botanists, the flower is the little nondescript yellow ‘thing’ and the
colored “leaves” are really modified leaves called bracts.
So come mid-January you’ll have to throw it out, right, NO, NO, you’re
wrong. Keep caring for it and add feeding of a balanced fertilizer monthly.
When the daytime temperatures remain above 45°F for a couple of weeks,
you can prune the plant back to about 4-6 inches and let it acclimate for a
summer of outdoor life. This pruning produces a much more compact plant
for this year’s holiday decorations. That’s correct, you can rebloom your
Poinsettia and I will let you in on the secret that every greenhouse operator
knows--how to get plants to bloom out of season, called “photoperiodism”.
Every plant has developed an environmental response to initiate
reproduction (i.e., flowering, etc). For the vast majority of plants the amount
of sunlight they receive during the day is the key, thus we have short-day
and long-day plant categories. Poinsettias are short-day plants so they need
12 hours or more of darkness in order to bloom. So what do you do to get
them to rebloom? Here’s the skinny.
Around the first week of September, re-acclimate your plant to the indoor
environment. Poinsettias need between 8 and 10 weeks of short-days to
bloom so in the last week of September you have to start the process inorder to have them blooming by mid-December.
You’ll have to provide at least 12 hours, better yet, 15 hours of TOTAL
darkness. I use a large enough paper grocery bag to cover the plant but a
dark closet will do. Make sure that during this ‘dark’ time the plant is not
exposed to any blight light.
Care for the plant as you normally would: bright daytime light, semi-dry soil
and monthly fertilizations. All of this special treatment will give you a
beautifully bloomed Poinsettia by mid-December. Enjoy the fruits of your
labor of love.
Forever blooming,
Dale Petzold, Certified Master Gardner
Reblooming Christmas &
Thanksgiving Cacti
By Ward Upham (11/23/09)
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) and
Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) are popular
flowering holiday plants. Both are epiphytes native to the
jungles of South America. Epiphytic plants grow on other
plants and use them for support but not for nutrients. Though
these cacti are different species, they will hybridize and
produce varying stem shapes.
Christmas cactus normally has smooth stem segments.
Thanksgiving Cactus has hook-like appendages on each
segment. Flowering will not occur unless induced by
temperature and/or light treatment. If the temperature is held at
50ºF to 55ºF, flowering will occur regardless of day length. But
flowering usually is not uniform. Temperatures below 50ºF
prevent flowering. Nights greater than 12 hours long and
temperatures between 59 and 69 degrees also can generate
flowers. Twenty-five consecutive long nights is enough for
flower initiation. It takes an additional 9 to 10 weeks for flowers
to complete development and bloom.
Both of these cacti like bright indirect light. Too much sun
may cause leaves to turn yellow. Common household
temperatures are fine. Soil should be kept constantly moist but
not water-logged. These plants seem to flower best if kept a
little pot-bound. If you need to repot, try waiting until spring.
Source: Gardening123.com
Link:
http://www.gardening123.com/articles/display_article.asp?MS=
6&SS=60&ID=103147&Page=1&
(Article Contributed by Dale Petzold, Certified MG)
A Gardener’s Guide To Mulching Right
Garden Gate Magazine, Test Garden Notes, April 2011
By Marcia Leeper
You can probably imagine that I use a lot of mulch at our test
gardens. Every spring I assess what we’ll need for new and old beds.
Let me show you how to choose the best mulch and spread it the
easy way. Then, I’ll show you how I freshen up old mulch to save
money every spring.
Many Good Choices: There are six kinds of mulch you can buy or
make (See Page 12). Although I try to save every penny, I try not to
use cheap mulches made of things like ground pallets that deteriorate
quickly and don’t look good. Mulch’s main jobs are to keep weeds
down and keep the soil moist, but they all do it a little bit differently.
For example, if weeds are a problem, look for something dense.
Pine needles are too light, but wood barks compress together better
to keep light from the soil beneath. Almost anything does well for
moisture retention. But sometimes you don’t want moisture to stay in
the soil. That’s where crushed granite comes in. It lets water drain
away quickly so sensitive plants won’t rot.
There are two ways to get wood mulch: in bags that hold 2 or 3
cubic feet, or in bulk by the cubic yard (27 cubic feet). You can haul
bulk mulch yourself or pay for its delivery. If you’re getting several
cubic yards, bulk mulch is more economical as long as you have
plenty of space to hold the pile and a wheelbarrow to help move it.
Get To Work: When you put mulch down, a 2 to 3 inch layer is about
right. Less mulch lets light through, allowing the weeds to sprout.
More will cause your perennials to struggle to get their heads above
ground. When you’re planting through mulch or spreading it around
plants, keep the mulch 2 inches away from the crown of the plant.
You want the roots to have moisture but you don’t want too much
moisture in the crown or the plant could rot. The illustration below
shows you how a well-mulched plant looks.
Page 11 of 24
A nice flat bed is a fairly simple proposition, but sometimes you’ll
need to mulch a slope or even a bermed bed. New mulch has a
habit of washing or blowing down a hill. Prevent this problem by
using mulches that knit together—such as wood bark or shredded
cedar. But if this isn’t enough, get bird netting and pin it down to the
mulch. This will hold it in place until the plants get established
enough to hold it where it needs to be.
Spreading mulch isn’t exactly easy, but it is easier if you use a
few of my favorite tools and techniques. First, dump your bag or
wheelbarrow in small piles around your bed. Then with a stiff
broom, sweep the piles out evenly over your bed. I like the broom
because it gently works around existing plants. It’s long-handled so
I don’t have to get down on my hands and knees to spread it and it
reaches farther. In the photo below, see how I spread mulch
without stepping into the bed where I might compress the soil.
Make mulching easier by starting with small piles of wood mulch
and then sweep them out with a stiff, straw broom. I use one with
plenty of life left in it. An old worn-down broom won’t move the
mulch around as smoothly.
Maintaining Mulch: Mulch is not a forever thing. Most of the
materials I use for mulching break down over a few years.
Even if it hasn’t yet totally broken down, wood mulch and pine
needles will eventually look matted and dirty. So as my perennials
are coming up I fluff the mulch with a springy rake as shown below.
You’d be amazed how much money you can save with fluffing
instead of topping off your wood mulch every year.
You may not need more mulch—fluffing your existing wood
mulch may be enough. You can make tired wood mulch look better
every spring with your rake. Grab a rake and bounce across
matted-down mulch and make it look almost new.
Crushed granite doesn’t break down, but soil can blow into it and
then weeds can sprout. When you pull weeds, it can often bring up
more soil. So, top off or put handfuls of fresh granite on top of old
when it starts to look really grimy looking.
Now you know my secrets for choosing and using mulches. I
hope it helps you to save time and money this year.
Page 12 of 24
Great Choices for Mulch
Source: Garden Gate Magazine, Test Garden Notes, April 2011
Crushed Granite
Shredded Cedar
… Nice-looking, holds color for a year or two before it needs to be
refreshed
… Its density makes it great at weed suppression
… Good for high-visibility beds; shredded types are good for slopes
and windy spots; pieces knit together
Pine Bark Nuggets
… Its oils may suppress fungus from splashing from the soil to plants
… A variety of sizes are available
… Good for high-visibility situations; can hold off disease, especially
around tomatoes
Pine Needles
… Comes in easy-to-manage bales of various sizes
… Covers a large area easily and won’t mat down
… Good for high-visibility situations; has a woodland look
… Also called “turkey grit”
… Stays in place well
… Can come in gray or a rose color
… Allows for plenty of drainage
… Good for plants that need great drainage—it will not hold
moisture like wood mulches will
Composted Leaf Mold
… Buy or make your own
… Needs to be replenished every year but improves soil
… Doesn’t look as tidy as other mulches
… Good for improving soil in any bed; is less visible in beds
Shredded Paper
… Decomposes with a year
… Should not be piled too high or it will hold too much moisture
… Use only paper with soy-based ink
… Good for vegetable gardens and other out-of-the-way spots
GROW YOUR OWN HERBS IN POTS:
35 Simple Projects For Creating
Beautiful Container Herb Gardens
Author: Deborah Schneebeli-Morrell, CICO Books, March 2010
Growing your own herbs appeals to the novice gardener,
the small-space gardener, and the organic cook. Easy to
grow, low maintenance, and inexpensive, herbs are both
attractive and practical in the garden. In this book, the author
provides all the information you need to grow your own herbs.
First, choose your herb with a quick reference guide to the
easiest herbs to grow in containers. Learn how to grow from
seed, get advice on how to choose healthy seedlings when
buying from a gardening store or nursery, and gain useful tips
and techniques on how to feed and deal with pests
organically.
Next, select your container-terracotta pots, recycled
containers, hanging baskets, window boxes, and more. Over
30 step-by-step projects show you how to prepare the
container and plant it up. There are also tips on protecting
perennial herbs over winter.
Whether you are gardening on a windowsill or balcony, or
just want to plant a few pots for outside the kitchen door,
Grow Your Own Herbs in Pots shows you the best way to
grow herbs. Anyone with a backyard or even a windowsill can
undertake these projects.
Other Books Written by Schneebeli-Morrell:
“Organic Herbs in Pots”, CICO Books, published in Spring
2009, has sold over 30,000 copies.
Page 13 of 24
COMMUNITY GARDEN RULES & OPERATIONAL
GUIDELINES (Continued From Page 7)
B. Gardening Procedures (Continued)
5. Gardeners will be issued a key to enter the garden and
access the garden shed. Tools and hoses are available on
site for use. Do not remove any tools or hoses from the
Garden. Please take care of the equipment and secure the
garden shed and gates when you leave.
6. A gardener must be on site when watering. Hoses for
watering may be used, please understand you will be
sharing water faucets with others. Also, please be
conscious of using water wisely.
7. Clean-Up: Upon completion of harvest, all dead vegetable
matter debris must be incorporated back into the soil or
completely removed and placed in the compost bin.
Gardeners are responsible for clean up and clearing of
plots. Gardeners must remove all wire, plastic stakes,
strings, etc., from the plot by November 30.
C. Prohibited Uses and Activities
1. The use of pesticides (herbicides, insecticides, etc.) is not
allowed in or around the Garden sites. Organic gardening
techniques should be used. The City cannot guarantee that
all Garden sites are strictly organic.
2. No tobacco products are allowed in the gardening area.
Tobacco products often contain a mosaic virus, which is
dangerous to tomatoes and beans.
3. No terraces or permanent structures are to be built. Framed
or raised beds are allowed, provided they do not impact
neighboring plots and do not encroach on pathways.
4. Painted materials are strictly prohibited.
5. Produce from the Garden is not to be used for sale or
commercial purposes.
6. Pets are not allowed in the Garden area.
D. Vandalism/Theft/Emergencies
1. The City of Las Cruces will not guarantee against
vandalism or theft at the Garden. Notify the Parks and
Recreation Section to report damage (575) 541-2553. If
you witness damage or theft please contact the Las Cruces
Police Department,
2. For emergencies call 911 or (575) 526-0795.
E. Modifications to Community Gardening Rules and
Operational Guidelines
1. It is understood that from time to time minor modifications
of the Rules and Operational Guidelines may be required
dependant on specific garden(s) design layout and use.
Parks and Recreation Administration Staff may review and
implement changes based on feedback from the gardening
community.
—BURROWING OWLS—
True to its name, the Burrowing Owl nests in a hole in the ground.
Although it is quite willing to dig its own burrow, it often uses one already
provided by prairie dogs, skunks, armadillos, or tortoises.
The first published report of the Burrowing Owl was in 1782 by
Giovanni Iganzio Molina, an Italian Jesuit priest stationed in Chile. The
Burrowing Owl has also been known as Ground Owl, Prairie Dog Owl,
Rattlesnake Owl, Howdy Owl, Cuckoo Owl, Tunnel Owl, Gopher Owl,
and Hill Owl.
Burrowing Owls are small ground-dwelling Owls with round heads and
no ear tufts. They have a rounded head, yellow eyes with white
eyebrows and long legs. The Owl is sandy colored on the head, back,
and upperparts of the wings and white-to-cream with barring on the
breast and belly and a prominent white chin stripe. The young are brown
on the head, back, and wings with a white belly and chest. They molt
into an adult-like plumage during their first summer. Burrowing Owls are
comparatively easy to see because they are often active in daylight, and
are surprisingly bold and approachable. The females are usually darker
than the males.
Habits: Burrowing Owls are generally active at dusk and dawn, but
sometimes at night also. They are highly terrestrial and are often seen
perched on a mound of dirt, telegraph or fence post—frequently on one
foot. They bob up and down when excited. Flight is with irregular, jerky
wingbeats and they will frequently make long glides, interspersed with
rapid wingbeats. They hover during hunting and courtship, and may flap
their wings asynchronously (not up and down together).
Size: Length 8.5-11 inches; Wingspan 20-24 inches); Weight 6-7.5 oz
Behavior: Catches food with feet; hunts by walking, hopping, or
running along the ground, or by flying from a perch.
Nesting: Nests in a burrow, often dug by a mammal. Burrow can be
several inches long, with numerous twists and turns. Nests are often
lined with horse or cow manure.
Nesting Facts:
• Egg Description: White
• Clutch Size: 2–12 eggs
• Condition at Hatching: Helpless, eyes closed, covered in grayish
white down.
Food: Insects, scorpions, small mammals, birds, amphibians, and
reptiles. Also unlike other Owls, Burrowing Owls are known to also eat
fruits and seeds, especially the fruit of Tesajilla (pencil cactus) and
Opuntia (prickly pear cactus).
Page 14 of 24
Cool Facts:
… Unlike most Owls in which the female is larger than the male,
the sexes of the Burrowing Owl are the same size.
…The Burrowing Owl appears to be diurnal because it can often
be seen foraging during the day. In fact, it hunts all day and
night long and is most active in the morning and evening. It
catches more insects during the day and more mammals at
night.
…The Burrowing Owl sometimes is placed into its own genus
(Speotyto). Genetic similarity and overall appearance unite it
with the other members of Athene genus that includes:
– Little Owl of Eurasia and northern Africa
– Spotted Owlet of southeastern Asia
– Forest Owlet (extremely rare and known only from a
handful of specimens and sightings in India)
Although the Little Owl is found in deserts and open areas,
it is not nearly as terrestrial as the Burrowing Owl. It usually
nests in tree cavities, although it will use a hole in a building or
wall, and sometimes nests in rabbit holes.
…The Burrowing Owl collects mammal dung and puts it in and
around its burrow. The dung attracts dung beetles, which the
Owl then captures and eats.
Immature Description: Juveniles have an unstreaked chest and
a few spots their backs. Chest color is buff or dirty white, with
dark collar (photo shown below)
Juvenile Burrowing Owl
Adult Description:
— Small owl
— Long legs
— Short tail.
— No ear tufts
— Spots on back — Bars on front
—Found on ground in open country
Voice: Burrowing owls are very vocal, and have a wide range of
different calls. The main call is given only by adult males, usually
when near the burrow to attract a female. A two-syllable "whowho" is given at the entrance of a promising burrow. This call is
also associated with breeding, and territory defense.
Other sounds called the "rasp", "chuck", "chatter", and
"scream" have been described. Juveniles give a rattlesnake-like
buzz when threatened in the burrow and adults give a short, lowlevel "chuck" call to warn of approaching predators
Burrowing Owls—Continued From Page 15
Hunting & Food: Burrowing Owls feed on a wide variety of prey,
changing food habits as location and time of year determine
availability. Large arthropods, mainly beetles and grasshoppers,
comprise a large portion of their diet. Small mammals, especially
mice, rats, gophers, and ground squirrels, are also important food
items. Other prey animals include: reptiles and amphibians,
scorpions, young cottontail rabbits, bats, and birds, such as
sparrows and horned larks. These Owls are quite versatile in the
ways they capture prey. They chase down grasshoppers and
beetles on the ground, use their talons to catch large insects in the
air, or hover in mid-air before swooping down on unsuspecting
prey.
Burrowing Owls also watch from perches, then glide silently
toward their target. These Owls are primarily active at dusk and
dawn, but will hunt throughout a 24-hour period, especially when
they have young to feed.
Unlike other Owls, they also eat fruits and seeds, especially the
fruit of Tesajilla (pencil cactus) and Opuntia (prickly pear cactus).
Breeding: The nesting season begins in late March or April.
Burrowing Owls are usually monogamous but occasionally a male
will have two mates. Courtship displays include flashing white
markings, cooing, bowing, scratching and nipping. The male
performs display flights, rising quickly to 100 feet, hovering for 5 to
10 seconds, then dropping 50 feet. This sequence is repeated
many times. Circling flights also occur.
Burrowing Owls nest underground in abandoned burrows dug by
mammals or if soil conditions allow they will dig their own burrows.
They will also use man-made nest boxes placed underground.
They often line their nest with an assortment of dry materials.
Adults usually return to the same burrow or a nearby area each
year. One or more "satellite" burrows can usually be found near the
nest burrow, and are used by adult males during the nesting period
and by juvenile Owls for a few weeks after they emerge from the
nest. Six to nine (sometimes up to twelve) white eggs are laid a day
apart, which are incubated for 28-30 days by the female only. The
male brings food to the female during incubation, and stands guard
near the burrow by day. The male cares for the young while still in
the nest. At 14 days, the young may be seen roosting at the
entrance to the burrow, waiting for the adults to return with food.
They leave the nest at about 44 days and begin chasing living
insects when 49-56 days old.
Page 15 of 24
Mortality: Burrowing Owls are able to live for at least 9 years in the
wild and over 10 years in captivity. They are often killed by vehicles
when crossing roads, and have many natural enemies, including
larger Owls, hawks, falcons, badgers, skunks, ferrets, armadillos,
snakes, and domestic cats and dogs.
They are listed as endangered, threatened, or a species of
special concern in most states and provinces where they occur.
Habitat: Burrowing Owls are found in open, dry grasslands,
agricultural and range lands, and desert habitats often associated
with burrowing animals, particularly prairie dogs, ground squirrels
and badgers. They can also inhabit grass, forb, and shrub stages
of pinyon and ponderosa pine habitats. They commonly perch on
fence posts or on top of mounds outside the burrow.
Burrowing Owls have been reported to nest in loose colonies.
Such groupings may be a response to a local abundance of
burrows and food, or an adaptation for mutual defense. Colony
members can alert each other to the approach of predators and
join in driving them off. The small area around the nest burrow is
aggressively defended against intrusions by other Burrowing Owls
and predators.
Distribution: Burrowing Owls are present in North America, and
breed across the grassland regions of southern Alberta,
Saskatchewan and Manitobaand. They occur in all states west of
the Mississippi Valley, breed south through the western and midwestern States. A separate subspecies is found in Florida and the
Caribbean Islands. They extend south into Mexico, Central
America and South America but populations have declined in many
areas due to human-caused habitat loss or alteration. Birds from
the northern part of the U.S. and Canada are migratory.
✦ REFERENCES ✦
Burrowing Owl - Athene cunicularia at the Owl Pages, link:
http://www.owlpages.com/owls.php?genus=Athene&species=
cunicularia
Burrowing Owl, All About Birds @ Cornell Lab of Ornithology, link:
http://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/burrowing_owl/lifehistory
WEED WATCH: PERENNIAL PEPPERWEED
NMSU Weed Management Services
Authors: Mark J. Renz & Robert G. Wilson, Nov. 2005
Page 16 of 24
Perennial Pepperweed is often confused with hoary
cress (Cardaria draba) also called Whitetop. However,
unlike the taller Perennial Pepperweed, hoary cress stems
are less than 3 ft tall and have leaves that clasp the stem
and lack an obvious petiole.
Reproduction & Spread: Perennial Pepperweed can
Introduction: Perennial Pepperweed (Lepidium latifolium L.) also known as
Tall Whitetop or Peppergrass is a creeping herbaceous perennial that is
currently invading New Mexico. It is part of the Mustard Family (Brasicaceae)
and considered a Class A Weed.
While Perennial Pepperweed is capable of invading roadsides, pastures,
alfalfa fields and many other upland sites, currently the majority of its
infestations are found along riparian areas, irrigation ditches, floodplains and
wetlands in NM. Shoots emerge early in the spring forming a rosette which
will persist for several weeks. By mid-late spring, plants bolt producing an
inflorescence where flowers will develop. After seed production, flowering
shoots senesce, although new rosettes can emerge in the fall in moist soils.
Origin: Originally from Europe and Asia, Perennial Pepperweed is becoming
widespread throughout the western U.S. Currently, large populations exist in
California, Nevada, Utah, Oregon, Idaho, Colorado, Montana and Wyoming.
Perennial Pepperweed was first discovered in NM in 1932 in Rio Arriba
County and has been quickly spreading throughout the state. Currently, large
infestations exist in central NM with new populations emerging throughout the
state. Concern for large-scale spread is high as Perennial Pepperweed has
the potential to invade disturbed areas high in salt concentrations. Rapid
response and eradication of existing infestations is critical to prevent the
spread of this invasive weed throughout the entire state.
Identification: Perennial Pepperweed produces stems ranging from 2 feet
to over 4 feet tall. Mature plants produce numerous erect, semi-woody stems
that originate from large, interconnected creeping roots. Roots can be
herbaceous or form semi-woody crowns. Herbaceous roots are often
creeping and are responsible for localized spread. Foliage is glabrous and
green to gray-green in color. Rosette leaves are ovate to oblong with entire to
serrate margins on long petioles. Rosette leaves are about 4”-11” long and
1”-3“ wide. Leaves on the stem are sessile and lanceolate, have entire to
toothed margins, and become smaller towards the top of the stem. Small,
white flowers form dense clusters arranged in panicles at each stem.
Key Characteristics:
• Height of growth is up to 6 feet tall
• Non-clasping leaves
• Small, white-petaled flowers in dense clusters
Flowers:
Small white flowers with petals 0.15” long that form dense
inflorescences that are rounded on top.
Roots:
Creeping perennial root system; white to cream color with
distinctive odor.
Reproduction: Perennial roots, root fragments, and seed reproduction.
spread either by seeds or perennial roots. Infestations can
produce over 6.4 billion seeds per acre annually. Seeds
rapidly germinate in laboratory conditions when exposed to
fluctuating cold/warm temperatures, but few seedlings are
observed in the field. Long distance dispersal is primarily
from seeds, but seed germination is rare. Viability of seeds
in the soil may be short as seeds do not seem to be
capable of surviving long periods in the soil.
Plants primarily reproduce from perennial roots. Root
segments produce adventitious buds capable of generating
new shoots. Radial expansion of populations typically
occurs from this method, producing new shoots that can
spread more than 10 feet from the parent plant each year.
Roots can also fragment during erosion events and spread
long-distances along river and irrigation canal banks.
Management: Proactive management is the best
approach for controlling this weed since large, dense
stands are difficult to control, especially in sensitive
ecosystems near water. Frequent monitoring is critical to
locate new plants before they become established. If new
infestations are found, plants should be immediately
removed to prevent further spread. Research has shown
sites with new Perennial Pepperweed infestations tend to
be easier and cheaper to manage.
Large, established infestations are much more difficult
and expensive to manage therefore preventing additional
spread into uninvaded areas should be the top priority. If
possible include revegetation methods to reduce the
possibility of reinvasion after management.
--Physical/Mechanical/Cultural
Establishing and maintaining competitive perennial
vegetation can dramatically slow the introduction and
spread of Perennial Pepperweed. Vigorous grasses, alfalfa,
or cropping systems with annual tillage help prevent its
invasion and establishment in agricultural areas. Seedlings
are easily controlled by hand-pulling or tillage, but these
techniques do not control established plants because
shoots quickly re-sprout from root reserves. Mowing and
burning are not effective at reducing Perennial Pepperweed
biomass, but are helpful at removing accumulated dead
stems and fit well in integrated approaches. Mowing, while
not effective in reducing Perennial Pepperweed stands, can
enhance the effectiveness of herbicides. For best results,
mow plants at the bolting or flower bud stage and apply
herbicides to re-sprouting shoots. Flooding populations for
several consecutive years during the entire growing season
is effective in removing it, however infestations along
levees must also be managed tools.
Management Do’s & Don’ts.
• Prevention and maintenance of a healthy plant
Weed Watch: Perennial Pepperweed—Continued From Page 16
Page 17 of 24
Container Cleanup: In 3 Easy Steps
By Deborah Gruca in Garden Gate Magazine, Dec. 2009
Management (Continued)
--Biological Control
Currently researchers are looking for biological control insects
and fungi in native locations in Europe and Asia, but no pests have
been isolated. Common native pests include white rust and other
lepidopteran pests. These organisms can prevent seed production,
but do not appear to limit vegetative spread. Intensive livestock
grazing through the growing season can effectively suppress
populations, but once livestock are removed, Perennial
Pepperweed populations quickly recover, therefore grazing should
be integrated with other tools.
--Herbicides
Several post-emergent herbicides can reduce Perennial
Pepperweed populations, but repeat applications in combination
with re-vegetation are needed to prevent reinvasion. In areas with a
dense buildup of thatch, mow or burn old shoots before applying
herbicides. Herbicide application timing is critical as herbicides
work best when applied at the flower bud stage. If herbicide cannot
be applied at the flower bud to flowering stages, mow plants and
treat re-sprouting shoots. (This article provides a Chart that lists
Herbicide Options for the Management of Perennial Pepperweed).
Management Do’s & Don’ts.
• Prevention and maintenance of a healthy plant community are
the best management methods.
• Hand-pull all roots and seedlings.
• Mowing is not an effective control method, but can prevent seed
formation if done before flowering.
• Herbicides are effective.
Distribution:
Has been identified in several areas of New Mexico, but the largest
area found is in the middle Rio Grande Valley.
✦ REFERENCES ✦
Perennial Pepperwood (Lepidium latifolium L.) New Mexico State
University Weed-Factsheet at link:
http://weeds.nmsu.edu/pdfs/perennial_pepperweed_factsheet
_11-06-05.pdf
Copies also available at the MG Hotline Library
New Mexico’s Invasive Weeds by Richard D. Lee, NMSU
Cooperative Extension, 1999
Troublesome Weeds of New Mexico by Mark Renz & Frank
Sholedice, NMSU Cooperative Extension, 2006
You’ve invested a lot of time and money in your containers to
make your garden look great all season. When the weather cools in
fall, it’s time to take care of that investment. Exposed to freezing
winter elements, plastic, glazed and terra-cotta containers often
crack or flake apart. But with a little time and effort, you can prevent
that and get many more years of use from them. Here’s how.
1- Clean Out After you’ve removed the plants from your
container, it’s important to empty your pot. In most cases, the potting
mix and other materials will not harm anything. But if the plants in
your pot had disease problems during the season, these materials
can harbor the disease until next year. So, just to be safe, it’s good
to clean them up.
I use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub off as much potting mix, moss
and mineral deposits as possible. (The mineral deposits are white
material that builds up on the pot from water or fertilizer.) Then I wet
down the entire container with water to loosen anything remaining
and scrub it again. If there’s still some mineral build-up left on the
pot, daub on a solution of 1-cup vinegar in 1-quart water and brush it
down again. Rinse it with plain water.
2- Sterilize Once your pot is clean, it’s time to sterilize it with a
1:10 bleach and water solution. Use a spray bottle to direct the
bleach solution where you want it so you don’t accidentally bleach
your clothing. Spray the inside to kill any diseases left in the pot.
Next, set the pots up off the floor in a warm, dry spot, like a garage
workbench, for a few days until they are totally dry.
3- Store Them Garden containers are best stored indoors,
where they’re protected from harsh winter weather. Stash them in
your garage, potting shed, or anywhere dry and out of the way. You
don’t want to accidentally knock a pot over and crack or break it.
Ideally, you should store your pots unstacked to prevent breaking
them—upside down if they’re outdoors (so they won’t collect debris,
etc.), upside down or right side up if they’re inside. If possible, prop
the pots up on 2x4s to keep them off the ground and to improve
circulation which will keep them dry. Place long strips of cardboard
between the pots to separate them and to prevent them from sticking
together. That way, in the spring, they will be easy to lift apart.
Page 18 of 24
Topics Discussed In This Research Article (Cont.)
GROWING PISTACHIOS IN NEW MEXICO
NMSU Circular 532, September 2007
Author: Esteban Herrera, Extension Horticulturist
The author states that, “Public interest in pistachio cultivation has
increased in New Mexico over the past five years. Pistachio nuts produced in
the state seem to be of excellent quality, suggesting the crop may have a
commercial future in southern New Mexico.”
Herrera states there are about eleven species of pistachio trees (Pistacia
spp. L). Currently is the only species grown commercially is P. vera because
it produces fruit of adequate size to be marketed. Other species are used as
rootstocks for P. vera.
The Pistachio’s origin is still uncertain, but most experts agree that it
probably originated in Central Asia. Most Pistachio production occurs in
countries with arid climate. Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Italy, and Syria are the
principal pistachio producing countries, outside the United States. Pistachio
nuts are grown mainly for export in those countries. Pistachio trees are also
grown in Pakistan, Greece, India, and Australia.
The USDA Plant Introduction Department introduced the Pistachio tree in
to California about 1904, but it was not promoted as a commercial crop in
California until 1929. In the past ten years, production and Pistachio acreage
has significantly increased in California. New Mexico growers are also getting
interested, and some commercial orchards have been planted, mainly in
Otero County. Small acreages are being planted in Luna, Doña Ana, and
Eddy counties.
 Topics Discussed In This Research Article
New Mexico’s Climate: Herrera states that Southern New Mexico counties
are well suited for commercial growing of Pistachio trees as our summer
temperatures above 100°F are described as ideal. Pistachio trees thrive on
heat; better nut filling and fewer blanks are produced in hot-weather climates.
However, winters need to be cold enough to complete their dormancy (a rest
period during winter).
Further, he mentions that Pistachio trees should not be planted above
4,500 feet elevation because cool summer temperatures do not promote
good kernel development. Also, temperatures below 10°F can kill the trees,
especially young trees.
Pollination: The Pistachio is a dioecious tree meaning male and female
flowers are produced on separate trees. Insufficient pollen is a primary cause
of crop failure. Female flowers do not have nectar petals that could attract
bees for insect pollination. Pollination is carried out by wind only; therefore,
mild winds during pollen shed are helpful. Pollination usually takes place in
early to mid-April. Strong desiccating winds in spring may interfere with
pollination and reduce crop set.
Soil & Water Requirements:
• Pistachio trees grow in virtually all soils. However, they
grow better in deep, sandy loam soils. Tree density should
be increased in poorer soils.
• Pistachio trees are long-lived, tap-rooted and can grow to
20-30 feet tall. Like any other fruit or nut tree, well-drained
soils are needed for optimum growth.
• Pistachios are drought tolerant, but for commercial crop
production there must be adequate soil moisture during
late winter, spring and early summer.
• Pistachios do not tolerate wet feet. Avoid “ponding“
water around the trees.
• Pistachio trees are highly tolerant to saline conditions.
Trees grow well in some orchards irrigated with water
containing 3,000-4,000 ppm of soluble salts.
Commercial Varieties Available:
All commercial varieties of Pistactios belong to the P. Vera
species. ‘Kerman’ is the only female tree recommended for
commercial plantings. Most recent California plantings are of
this variety. ‘Kerman’ is an open-pollinated seedling from seed
collected at Rafsinjan near Kerman, Iran.
Rootstocks: There are eleven species of genus pistacia, but
only four species are widely used in the Pistachio industry.
‘Kerman’ (female) and ‘Peters’ (male), which are P . vera,
have been already mentioned. P. atlantica has traditionally
been the rootstock of choice for ‘Kerman’ and ‘Peters’.
In addition, this article also covers the following issues:
…Spacing & Planting Procedures
…Planting, Budding, Training & Pruning Young Trees
…Tree Nutrition
…Harvest
…Biennial Bearing
…Diseases
…Insects
…Epicarp Lesion
In summary, Herrera states that Pistachios are used in a
number of ways…”They are served principally as salted nuts.
A large percentage of Pistachios are marketed in the shell for
snack food. Non-split, filled nuts are used for processing.
Whole, cull Pistachio nuts appear to be acceptable to cattle
and sheep as part of their feed rations.
The food industry uses pistachios for cakes, biscuits, pies,
candies, and ice cream. They are also used as stuffing for
both meat and snacks.
For additional information also check out, “Root Diseases
of Pistachio Trees” in NMSU Guide H-647 by Natalie P.
Goldberg, Extension Plant Pathologist, May 1997.
To read more about the Root Diseases article, check out
link: http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/h-647.pdf
To read more about the Growing Pistachios check out link:
http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_circulars/circ532.pdf
Copies also available in the MG Library.
VEGGIES: A To Z
CILANTRO (Coriandrun sativum)
“Cilantro or coriander is a member of the carrot family, native to the
Mediterranean region, and is the world’s most widely used herb. The seed
of this plant is the spice coriander, and its leaf is the herb cilantro. This
plant can reach as high as three feet. Its foliage is finely divided and looks
like parsley but has an exceptionally sweet-musky flavor”, according to a
home gardening guide written by Iowa State University.
Cilantro is an herb commonly found in Mexican and Tex-Mex or Southwestern dishes. It has a strong, distinctive flavor that is quite unmistakable.
The seeds of the cilantro plant are also used to season food, and are
called coriander. Growing your own cilantro can be a bit tricky, but with
attention and care you'll be harvesting this wonderful herb and using it in
your own cuisine.
The plant’s leaves are most commonly referred to as cilantro and have
a much different taste from the seeds, one that is similar to parsley with a
dash of citrus flavor.
Growing Cilantro:
Wouldn't it be nice to have fresh cilantro growing right outside your
kitchen door? But if you've ever tried to grow it, you've probably noticed
that cilantro yields a fast crop; plants are barely up before they try to flower
or bolt and set seeds. So those tasty leaves aren't around long, especially
in warm weather.
Cilantro has special needs to thrive in a garden. It is short lived and will
develop a flower stalk, or “bolt” (see photo below) prematurely when the
soil temperature exceeds 75°F.
Bolting Cilantro
Page 19 of 24
To keep leaves coming, you can sow seeds every two weeks
for a continuous cilantro crop. Sow seeds thickly in a wide, shallow
container; then, as soon as the plants are 3 to 4 inches tall and
sporting a couple of cuttable leaves, use scissors to cut off some
foliage for cooking.
Shear from a different section of the container every time,
rotating the pot as you go and never let plants in any area mature.
By the time you get back to the first section harvested, new leaves
will have appeared.
Cilantro should be grown in early spring or fall when the
weather is cool. It requires mostly full sun, although some have
luck growing cilantro in morning sun and shade in the hot
afternoon. One way to help keep your cilantro plants from bolting
is to grow it in the ground with plenty of mulch on top of the roots,
this helps keep the soil cooler longer into the day. Another trick is
to plant cilantro plants very close together, shading the roots and
thus keeping them cool. Under the right conditions, cilantro will
last about 8-10 weeks before flowering. Cilantro will reseed itself
in your garden if you allow the plants to flower and develop seeds.
Harvest coriander seeds as soon as they turn brown by shaking
the seed heads over a paper bag. Allow the seeds to dry and store
them in airtight jars.
Cilantro Growing Tips:
…Cilantro plants grow and go to seed very quickly, so you'll want
to plant them continuously throughout the growing season; every
three weeks or so to maintain your crop. Once the roots
consistently reach 75°F, the plant will start to seed.
…Plant the herb seeds a few inches apart in an area of your
garden that receives both sun and shade, preferably morning sun
and afternoon shade. Planting them close together will give your
cilantro plants a bit of extra shade to keep the roots cooler, longer.
Seeds should be planted about 1/4 inch deep.
…Spring and fall are the best times to grow cilantro, since the heat
of the summer sun will speed up the process and your plants will
bolt to seed quickly. The soil should be well drained and moist for
optimum growth.
…Add a bit of mulch or compost to your cilantro bed to provide
nutrients for the soil and an extra layer of protection for the roots.
…If your cilantro plants begin to flower (i.e. bolt) trim off the flower
heads to prolong leaf growth. This directs the plant's energy back
into the leaves rather than flowers and seeds. If you allow the
seed heads to mature, they will resow themselves back into your
garden and you'll have another crop in a few weeks. Under good
conditions and careful monitoring, your cilantro plants should be
ready to harvest after about 8 weeks.
Flower of Coriandrum sativum
Page 20 of 24
Cilantro—Continued From Page 19
How to Harvest Cilantro:

CILANTRO FACTS 
Growing Cultures: Outdoors, containers (sow directly in
pots, do not transplant as root disturbance causes early
bolting), hydroponics.
Plant Height: Grows to a height of 18 to 24 inches
Plant Spacing: Plants should be spaced 9 to 12 inches
apart
Preferred pH: Grow in a relatively wide pH range
between 6.1 (mildly acidic) and 7.8 (mildly alkaline) with
a preferred range between 6.5 and 7.5
Propagation: From seed; direct sow outdoors after last
frost. Start seeds indoors six weeks before planting
outdoors.
Seed Germination Period: 7 to 10 days
Soil Requirements: Deep, fertile, light or heavy, but
well-draining
Alternative Growing Media: Soilless potting mixes,
perlite, vermiculite, rockwool, coco peat, Oasis foam.
Time From Seed to Harvest: Six weeks
Sun & Lighting Needs: If grown outdoors for Coriander
seed prefers full sun; if grown outdoors for leaves can
tolerate some shade; will grow indoors satisfactorily
under standard fluorescent lamps and exceptionally well
under high output fluorescent, compact fluorescent, or
high intensity discharge (metal halide or high pressure
sodium) plant growing lights. Have an oscillating fan
gently stir seedlings for at least 2 hours per day to
stimulate shorter, sturdier, and more natural plant habit.
USDA Hardiness: Annual
Water Requirements: Water on a regular schedule-do not overwater
Potential Pests & Diseases: Aphids, thrips, mites, &
whitefly; minimal disease issues.
Special Notes: Known to attract bees, butterflies or
birds, has fragrant blossoms and aromatic foliage; selfsows freely; remove flowers (deadhead) if you do not
want volunteer seedlings the following season.
1. Cilantro leaves can be cut at any time during their growth period, but
waiting until the plant is about 6 inches tall will give you optimum leaves.
2. Cut the outer leaves first, allowing the smaller leaves that are closer to
the stalk to continue to grow and mature. Keep an eye on your cilantro
plants, as they grow quickly.
3. You will likely get to harvest the leaves two or three times before the
plants bolt to seed. Once they begin to seed, you can collect the seeds
and use them as coriander, or save them to dry out and replant.
4. After picking the cilantro leaves, clean and dry them thoroughly. Try
storing them in the fridge in a glass of water to help keep some shelf life.
Some like to wait until the cilantro plant is full grown and then pull it up
by the roots, using the whole plant at once. The roots are edible as well
as the leaves of cilantro and many enjoy adding the roots to favorite stirfry dishes.
5. Cilantro leaves generally aren't very good to dry and store. Dried leaves
lose their flavor, so this herb is almost always used fresh.
Quick Tips: Cilantro generally doesn't fare well in window boxes or
indoor pots. Grow your cilantro plants outdoors for best results.
Keep the soil nice and moist, and trim off any dead leaves or those that
have been nibbled on by insects or animals.
Caution: If you suspect your cilantro plants have become infested with
bugs or disease, discard the plants and start over again.
Once you've grown and harvested your cilantro, you'll want to make
good use of it. Try adding chopped, fresh cilantro to commercially prepared
salsa. You won't believe the difference!
A Better Way to Grow Cilantro in Sunset Magazine, at link:
http://www.sunset.com/garden/flowers-plants/better-way-growcilantro-00400000017171/
Cilantro by E. Everhart, C. Haynes & R. Jauron, Iowa State University
Horticulture Guide, April 2003
Cilantro/Coriander on Herb Gardening.com at link:
http://herbgardening.com/growingcilantro.htm
Coriander in Wikipedia at link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coriander
How To Grow and Harvest Cilantro by Carrie Grosvenor at link:
http://www.howtodothings.com/home-and-garden/a1944-how-to-growand-harvest-cilantro.html
How To Grow/Harvest Cilantro, at link:
http://fragrantfields.com/howtogrowharvestcilantro.aspx
Page 21 of 24
2012 STATE MG CONFERENCE
T-SHIRT DESIGN CONTEST
22001122 NNEEW
WM
MEEXXIICCOO
M
MAASSTTEERR GGAARRDDEENNEERR CCOONNFFEERREENNCCEE
—Las Cruces, June 7-8, 2012—
Hello Doña Ana County Master Gardeners!
It’s time to put on your thinking caps on and exercise your
creativity! We need a graphic design (no photographs) for the
official 2012 New Mexico Master Gardener Conference logo.
One design and one T-shirt color will be selected.
Here’s the Guidelines:
1. Design should center around the 100th anniversary of New
Mexico’s statehood.
2. The design’s theme will include a native New Mexico plant,
ideally one found statewide, and will include the words “2012
New Mexico Master Gardener State Conference”.
3. The design should be print-ready and transferable to a jump
drive. Hard copy only will not be accepted. In other words,
you need to have an electronic version or some way to get it
in that form.
4. The design is limited to the three colors.
5. Deadline is December 15, 2011. The winner will be
announced at the January monthly Master Gardener
Meeting.
6. The New Mexico state Zia symbol cannot legally be
included in the design.
In keeping with the shoestring budget for this Conference, the
winner will receive recognition in the official program and the
satisfaction of knowing his/her design is the official logo of the
conference.
Electronic copies of your designs should be mailed to me at:
[email protected]
If you have any questions, please call me at (575) 382-2131
Thanks in advance for participating.
Marcella Newman, Certified Master Gardener
Our Conference now has a Facebook page!
Updates and information will be posted there as they
become available. The Planning Committee decided
to try a free Facebook page instead of paying for a
website.
Here's the link:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Doña-Ana-CoMaster-Gardeners/111217812302104
This page should be accessible to everyone.
Please let Sylvia know if you're having
trouble. Sylvia’s email is: [email protected]
NOVEMBER MG BIRTHDAYS
Joann Embury
Valice Raffi
Colette Bullock
Bonnie Eisenberg
Janie Elliot
Sylvia Hacker
Frank Collins
November 6
November 12
November 18
November 21
November 23
November 30
November 30
Page 22 of 24
—Monthly Meeting, October 12, 2011—
 WELCOME—Jeff Anderson & Juliet Williams
 COMMITTEE/PROJECT REPORTS
MG Hotline—(Sylvia Hacker) Things are going great, students have begun to work with their mentors. Someone brought in empty pill bottles
for use in transporting bug samples. No need to turn in Contact forms when Miss Alice calls, as she calls just to harangue us on topics
unrelated to gardening. But otherwise do fill out your forms in neat handwriting because they are read and recorded.
Volunteer Hours/Time Sheets—(Pamela Crane) Pamela is now tabulating our service hours for the past calendar year.
MG Newsletter—(Ann Shine-Ring) Ann encouraged MGs to send her ideas for future Plant-of-the-Month. Next month will be Chinese
Pistache, Claret Cup cactus, and all about mulching. Darrol will no longer writing the Vegetable Column, so if someone wants to take that on, it
would be great. Jeff suggested we also include the new “Red Push” variety of Chinese Pistache.
Lunch & Learn Presentation—(Sylvia Hacker)This month Russ Boor will be talking about bulbs. Not sure what the November presentation
will be. December’s presentation will be on healthy holiday trees.
Farmer’s Market—(Dixie LaRock) Dixie stated that our next Plant Sale will be held in the Spring. We need a new Coordinator for Plant Sales
next time. Dixie announced that we earned $476 from the last Plant Sale. She encouraged us to begin thinking about plants in your yards that
can be divided and potted for the spring sale.
2012 MG Statewide Conference—(Russ Boor) The Conference Planning Committee met Oct. 11th and the planning is progressing. Mona
Nelson has setup a Committee to gather items for the silent auction and asked to think of who we know, or what we have that would help us
get some really great items. Marcella talked about the design contest for MG Conference logo. A sign-up sheet was available. We are still
looking for a place to hold the banquet. Maryann suggested the Builders’ Association hall and Joan Lane will inquire about using it, as she
works for the head of the Association.
Finance Committee—Approved purchase of potting soil for Dixie for our last Plant Sale.
Graduation Committee—(Valice Raffi) Valice asked for volunteers to help with planning our Grad Party in January 2012. Val Fernandez
volunteers to help, but others are needed. At this point in time, we need volunteers to try out different caterers/restaurants.
 OLD / CONTINUING / NEW BUSINESS
• Southern New Mexico State Fair Sept. 27-Oct. 2 (Valerie Fernandez) This year, the Fair was not very successful. The Fair’s website was
not working correctly, it was almost impossible to get the correct forms, so there were very few entries. Thanks to those who helped. Jeff
mentioned that the Sierra County Fair’s participation was way off too.
• Ornamental Trees Conference (October 20,2011)— There is a $50 registration fee; a brochure is passed around.
• Other Issues:
… Val Fernandez showed us a new hoe designed by one of her clients. Bonnie suggested it should be designed a bit narrower for individual
weeds, Valice demonstrated its use. Various people will try it out and give feedback.
… Jeff asked several MG students from our current class to stand up and introduce themselves.
… UTEP Events: Sylvia mentioned the Plants Week Event at UTEP Gardens. Also, next week there will be an event at Bosque de Mesilla,
where we will have an info table.
 QUARTERLY MG COORDINATORS’ MEETING
The MG Coordinating Committee met on October 5, 2001, to discuss two major problems and discussed ways to try to resolve them.
#1—HOTLINE HOURS: Not enough people have been signing up to work Hotline this year. What events count as Hotline hours? General
info tables at outside events do not count. Do all MGs have to put in 25 hours on Hotline? This was the rule for many years, but it has been
altered somewhat recently. Therefore, those individuals who put in a great deal of volunteer time on other important projects have not had to
put in work on our Hotline.
Do we need to reinstate this rule, or mandate some number of hotline hours? Val mentioned we are now involved in so many more
activities, many of us are putting in numerous volunteer hours other than Hotline. There are always extenuating circumstances, but many MGs
thought we need minimal requirements for Hotline. Some people said they thought Hotline work is too complicated. Sylvia pointed out there is
a binder in the MG Office with all procedures clearly written out. Also, Hotline workers are rarely alone. It is important to note that documented
Hotline hours are the basis for our continued Program funding.
William Little, MG student, argued against mandatory hours as did several others. Sylvia, our Hotline Coordinator, said it is not necessary to
make Hotline mandatory. She stated that a bigger problem is the “no shows”. If everyone does a little bit, it won’t be a problem. Jeff decided
we have made our point and will not institute a mandatory number of Hotline hours at this point, but if it remains a problem we may have to.
#2—NO-SHOWS If you sign up, you must show up. The new rule proposed was, if you sign up for Hotline or any another activity and do not
show up, and do not get a sub (in the case of Hotline) or fail to let the Hotline Project Coordinator know you cannot make it, and this happens
twice in a Program year, you could lose all accumulated volunteer hours. There is a list of subs in the MG Office, but if you can’t make it, how
do you get that list? A copy of this list will be distributed. The Hotline signups are listed in the last page of our MG Magazine each month. Many
people expressed opposition to this proposed new rule. It was agreed that Jeff will make the final decision if anyone may have to forfeit
volunteer hours, so if you have a good excuse, talk to Jeff. Anyone who is habitually a “no-show” may be asked to leave the MG Program.
Meeting Minutes Continued on Page 23
Page 23 of 24
QUARTERLY MG COORDINATORS’ MEETING (Continued)
Juliet stated that as MGs we must remember the honor and pride of being a MG and we need to respect this position we
have earned and do our duty to the Program, to our fellow MGs and to the community.
Jeff mentioned that we have the best MG Program in the state, the best training classes, best MG Magazine and the best
community outreach program. Ann will be updating the contact list in January and it will be sent out. She will also update the
“specialists” list and send that out along with the sub list.

PROJECT COORDINATORS: A list was distributed so people can sign-up for any of the many Projects we do throughout the
year. Many Project Coordinator positions are open right now or will be soon, so think about what activities you might want to get
involved with. Current Coordinators will set up a file for their activity with an SOP and handout masters. There will be
sign-up/sign-in sheets for each activity and description of the Coordinator’s duties.
 EDUCATIONAL PRESENTATION: COMMUNITY GARDENS
Mark Johnston of Las Cruces Parks & Recreation Department came to our meeting to provide more information about
the City’s Community Garden Project, which was mentioned at our last month’s meeting. Las Cruces is planning more community
gardens and they have requested our help.
This is actually a very fertile area and most people are not taking advantage of it. Education is needed to get people going.
People have asked to get community gardens going throughout the community. The park service already owns the land and most
of it has irrigation already in place.
October 13th at 2:00pm there was a meeting at the Gomez Park near Frenger Pool to try to begin a Garden Program. The
City is partnering with NMSU and LCPS. They would also love to have MGs do a demonstration garden and some information
sharing. If this works well, we could expand to other parks. We have so much lawn in our parks that could be more productively
used for gardens. The City is taking out some of those lawns and putting in more water-wise landscaping. They are also planning
a garden at Munson Senior Center. They need input on how to make a more accessible garden for seniors. Mark asked how
many people are interested in working on this project, and about 8-10 people raised they hands. Mark is putting together an email
list to begin to organize people to get this project together.
Mark would like to have the Community Gardens Program up and running by next spring. We will prepare the soil over the
winter. The City can take contributions of seeds or seedlings, yes--they are also looking for corporate sponsors. Someone
mentions the garden in TorC that has been working very well and has fruit trees around the perimeter. The City could also take
memorial donations so people could contribute trees in memory of a loved one.
There was some discussion about the El Paseo Corridor. This area is different because it is comprised of all commercial
property not city-owned. Jeff asked about the city landscape code, which requires businesses to put in street side landscaping,
but it does not require them to maintain them or to remove them when they die. Mark admitted that that is a problem in the
Ordinance.
Valice asked who is going to have overall responsibility for the garden. Marks stated that most gardens are grass roots
organized and run by the surrounding community, but this is different because it will be established by City Parks and Recreation.
Mark wants to be able to convince the community that it is a good thing to get involved with. The communities might donate
a plot of land to the MG Program for our use as a demonstration garden and teaching spot. NMSU’s Agronomy Program will also
be involved and the university is trying to get it a credit activity for students.
Mary Louise from Parks and Recreation attended our meeting and took down the names of interested people so the City can
provide them with more information. Neighborhoods need to take responsibility for the garden and we hope to be able to gardens
in many other neighborhoods as well, once the demand surfaces.
Jeff asked about garden rule and conflict management. Mark stated they have rules already in place about no pesticides or
herbicides in the garden and other issues. People will have to sign an agreement before getting a plot.
How will it be organized? To begin with, there will be one MG plot, one NMSU plot, one area for individual plots and another
area setup for teaching programs. Is there a map of where the gardens will be? Not yet. This is just getting going, the City is on
board, now we need to organize the community to participate. (Be sure to read articles on Pages 6, 7, 13 about the
Demonstration/Teaching Garden Partnership with Las Cruces and the Community Gardens Guidelines).
Meeting Snacks: Thanks to Hope Movsesian, Mary Ozenne and Juliet Williams who provided this month’s refreshments. Next
month, Janie Elliot, Ina Goldberg and Ann Shine-Ring will be our goodie makers.
Next MG Business Meeting–Wednesday, November 9, 2011
(Remember our new meeting starting time of 9:15am due to a change in the Branigan Library’s new opening time.)
Page 24 of 24
IMPORTANT: Please remember to be present on your assigned date for the Hotline. If another MG forgets,
please give him or her a “reminder” call. Be sure to get a copy of the Subs List, for your information.
We are in need of many additional volunteers for Hotline Duty for both November & December. Please
sign-up for those open days. Your help will be greatly appreciated.
Hotline Changes: Effective this year, our Hotline hours will be from 9:00-1:00 all year long. They will no
longer drop back to 12:00 during the winter.
The assignments listed below were current as of October 27, 2011
MG Hotline Assignments for November
Tuesday, Nov. 1 Russ Boor
Dick Hiss
Myles Munoz
Sue Styer (Student)
George Pouy (Student)
Deb Tallant (Student)
Friday, Nov. 4
Hope Movsesian
Alan Krueger (Student)
Tuesday, Nov. 15 Mike Lee
Linda Mullins (Student)
Friday, Nov. 18
Friday, December 2
Alberta Morgan
Dael Goodman (Student)
Sherman Levenson (Student)
Tuesday, December 6
Sylvia Hacker
Myles Munoz
Dorian Dodson (Student)
Sue Styer (Student)
George Pouy (Student)
Dan Brandt (Student)
Friday, December 9
Ann Palormo
B. G. Hosie (Intern)
Sara Flores (Student)
Tuesday, December 13
Mary Thompson
Helen Borchardt (Student)
Joan Woodward
Greg Kopp (Student)
Alberta Morgan
Intern
Tuesday, Nov. 8 Marcella Newman
Ina Goldberg
Dael Goodman (Student)
Sherman Levenson (Student)
Kramer Winingham (Student)
Friday, Nov. 11
MG Hotline Assignments for December
Kelly Covert
Laurie Davidson
Eric Graham (Student)
Solange Graham (Student)
Friday, December 16
Certified MG
William Little (Student)
Friday, December 23
Holiday—MG Office Closed
Certified MG
Intern
Student
Tuesday, Nov. 22 Mary Thompson
Helen Borchardt (Student)
Friday, Nov. 25
Friday, December 30
Tuesday, Nov. 29 Ann Palormo
Sara Flores (Student)
Next Monthly Meeting of the
Doña Ana County Master Gardeners
(We are now meeting on the 2nd Wednesday of every month)
❀ ❀❀
Wednesday, November 9, 2011 @ Branigan Library
Roadrunner Room, 2nd Floor
9:15am-11am Please note our new starting time

Nov 2011 - Darrol Shillingburg

Transcription

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