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Undiscovered Haven:
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UNDISCOVERED HAVENS
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Story and photos by Dave G. Houser
Bozeman
Montana’s Big Sky, fresh air and outdoor recreation
make city near Yellowstone National Park a dream spot
F
or Jane Mahlow, a 56-year-old semiretired veterinarian from
Austin, TX, it was an ad in Where to Retire that spurred her
interest in relocating to Bozeman. Once she paid a visit, she
was smitten by the southwestern Montana city’s comfortable
size and “its friendly and wholesome nature.”
Jane became one of the first buyers in the community that was
advertised, The Knolls at Hillcrest, the area’s first active-adult
neighborhood. She’s looking forward to the completion of her new
home in spring 2011.
Like many people, Jane wasn’t
retiring to Bozeman was the
familiar with Bozeman. In fact,
culmination of a long developshe had never been to Montana
ing affair with Montana. In the
and had to check the map to
fall of 2009, they relocated from
find the city. Situated along
Little Rock, trading the low
Interstate 90, it’s home to Monmountains of central Arkansas
tana State University and is a
for the towering snowcapped
gateway to Yellowstone Nationpeaks of the Rockies.
al Park, which is about 80 miles
“We simply fell in love with
south, lapping over the Monthe scenic grandeur of it all.
tana state line from Wyoming.
The famous Big Sky, the fresh
The town’s smaller size, with
air, laid-back atmosphere and
a population under 40,000,
so many outdoor activities comappealed to Jane, and she was
bined to match our concept of
surprised by its “big-city infraa retirement dream location,”
structure — the outstanding
says Kay, who first visited Monpublic transportation, medical
tana in 2002 to witness her
facilities, cultural activities and
actress daughter Tonya perform
opportunities and even the
with the Virginia City Players.
shopping.” She also likes its
The troupe presents fun 19thpedestrian-friendly nature. “It’s Downtown Bozeman spotlights its gallery
century shows during the sumgreat to be able to walk almost
mer in the historic gold mining
scene each summer with a series of art
anywhere I’d need to go,” she
town of Virginia City, about 65
walks and special exhibits.
says, noting that The Knolls is
miles southwest of Bozeman.
conveniently located.
In 2008, Butch and Kay retired from careers with a
For John “Butch” Andrews, 65, and wife Kay, 63,
family-owned Arkansas furniture maker and looked
west. “We just naturally gravitated to
Bozeman, which had served us well
as a base during many of our visits
over the years,” she says.
Situated on the fringes of the verdant Gallatin Valley, Bozeman is surrounded by mountains, flanked most
immediately by the Bridger, Tobacco
Root and Gallatin ranges. It’s a classically scenic, environmentally pristine
Montana setting — one that Robert
Redford selected as a location for his
1992 movie, “A River Runs Through
It.” The surrounding natural beauty
comes to life in captivating scenes of
fly-fishing on area streams and rivers.
Originally home to a Crow Indian
encampment, modern-day Bozeman
was established in 1864 following the
founding of the Bozeman Trail, an offshoot of the Oregon Trail to link up
with the Virginia City mines. The city
has a colorful frontier history that’s
evident today in the nearly 50 downtown buildings listed on the National
Register of Historic Places.
With about 13,000 students, it has a
college-town atmosphere that’s frequently cited as a major draw. As an
educational center, it has attracted a
burgeoning high-tech/biotech industry
with nearly a dozen companies setting
up operations in recent years.
State University in the 1970s. When he
returned to take up permanent residence in 2007, Bill and Trica began
visiting more frequently — with
grandkids becoming a big attraction
— and by 2009 they’d become so
enamored with the city they decided
to make the move themselves.
“The surroundings are just so fresh
and beautiful,” notes Trica, “that it
recreational opportunities, including
golfing, hiking, cycling, white-water
rafting, horseback riding, hunting, fishing and skiing — both downhill and
cross-country. World-class downhill
skiing, featuring one of the largest vertical drops in North America, is readily accessible at Big Sky Resort, about
45 miles south of Bozeman. Closer in,
low-key, low-cost Bridger Bowl Ski
Local growers and craftsmen fill the Bogert Farmers Market each Tuesday
from June through September. Above: Bill and Trica Skidmore have a home
at Aspen Pointe within walking distance of medical and shopping facilities.
Right: Fly-fishing guides and outfitters are booming businesses in the area.
Pennsylvanians Bill and Trica Skidmore were introduced to Bozeman
when son Peter attended Montana
affects people’s attitudes — nearly
everyone here seems so happy.”
Bozeman is a gateway to boundless
Area is a ready choice among residents and visitors alike. Snowmobiling
and snowshoeing are popular winter
pursuits in the area as well.
Golf enthusiasts will find a pair of
excellent public courses — Bridger
Creek Golf Course, a Golf Digest
choice as one of Montana’s top 10,
and Cottonwood Hills Golf Club.
Butch Andrews frequents Cottonwood
Hills and describes it as “beautifully
conditioned and very enjoyable to
play.”
Dozens of outfitters, resorts and
guest ranches offer horseback riding,
and many of them can organize multiday pack trips. The renowned trout
waters of the Madison, Gallatin and
Yellowstone rivers attract anglers from
around the world. Hikers are rewarded with an extensive network of trails
radiating from the city. Two paths, one
through a beautiful juniper forest,
climb Baldy Mountain to the concrete
“M,” created by MSU students in 1915
near the mouth of Bridger Canyon.
Another popular destination, Hyalite
Drainage Recreational Area, features a
variety of trails to lakes, streams,
waterfalls and 10,000-foot peaks.
“For us, outdoor recreation is one
of Bozeman’s biggest selling points,”
says Kate Evans, who came west
from Illinois with husband Dick to
retire at the Big Sky resort-residential
community in 1986. He had a career
in sales and she was a journalist, writing for Chicago area newspapers. In
September 2009, the couple, now in
their 80s, relocated to Bozeman to be
closer to urban amenities and services, including medical care when
needed. They walk daily on scenic
recreational paths overlooking the
valley and mountain ranges, and
they, along with the Skidmores and
Andrewses, frequent the numerous
cross-country ski trails in winter.
Residents are quick to point out the
city’s numerous theaters, museums,
galleries and other cultural venues.
The Emerson Center for the Arts &
Culture draws specific praise from
Jane and the Skidmores. Housed in a
1918 school building where class-
rooms now serve as artist workspaces, yoga studios and galleries, the
Emerson is a vital arts hub of the
community.
Unusual for its size, Bozeman maintains vibrant symphony, opera and
theater companies. The Bozeman
Symphony Society presents 16 concerts from September to April. The
Intermountain Opera Association has
been producing grand opera here
every spring since 1979. Acclaimed
professional artists from around the
country join singers from MSU and the
community to don dazzling costumes
for a series of performances on stages
that have included hand-painted sets
from Milan, Italy.
The Equinox Theatre Company is
Bozeman’s year-round resident professional ensemble and the community’s
leading provider of performing arts
educational programs. The Evanses
and Jane like the Equinox for its edgy,
inventive productions that run the
gamut from the works of modern
playwrights to bawdy new takes on
tried-and-true classics.
The Ellen Theatre downtown is
another popular venue. “The Ellen is a
fabulous old 1919 vaudeville palace,
and somehow they’ve managed to
save it,” says Kate. “You’d have to see
it to believe it. Neil Simon’s comedy
‘Laughter on the 23rd Floor’ is coming
up. They have all kinds of shows.
We’ve seen Arlo Guthrie there and the
Glenn Miller Orchestra.”
Housed in the stern-looking redbrick 1911 county jail building on
The Pioneer Museum, in the former
county jail, explores the rich history of
Gallatin County and Bozeman. Above
left: Atop a ridge, The Knolls and
adjoining communities have sweeping
views of the valley and mountains.
Main Street, the Pioneer Museum
does a fine job portraying the early
days of Bozeman and Gallatin County. The Museum of the Rockies,
which is part of MSU and just south
of the campus, stands out as Montana’s premier natural and cultural
museum. While it has a planetarium
and an active living-history farm, the
main attraction here is a collection of
fossils, including some very big ones,
such as the largest T. rex skull in the
world and some of the few dinosaur
nests and eggs known to exist.
Downtown, many of the old brick
buildings now thrive as boutiques
and bookstores along with cafes, coffeehouses and more than a few good
restaurants. Favorites are Montana
Ale Works and Ted’s Montana Grill,
considered the best place in town to
tie into a bison steak. Montana Ale
Works reigns as Bozeman’s most
popular hangout for folks of all ages
— from students to seniors — serving a casual mix of steaks, burgers,
fish and game, along with more than
30 microbrews on tap.
With all the attributes, though,
there’s no getting around winters in
Montana — they’re cold. The surrounding ranges somewhat shelter
Bozeman from the truly heavy snow
B O Z E M A N, M O N T A N A
Population: 39,282
Location: Bozeman is in southwest Montana on Interstate 90, about 200 miles
southeast of Missoula and 400 miles
north of Salt Lake City. It’s about 80 miles
from Gardiner, MT, the northern entrance
to Yellowstone National Park, which
extends slightly across the state line from
Wyoming. The elevation of Bozeman is
about 4,800 feet.
Climate: High Low
January 33 14
July
82 52
Average relative humidity: About 60%
Rain: 18 inches annually
Snow: 84 inches annually
Cost of living: Slightly above average
Housing cost: In Bozeman, the median
sales price was $237,000 for single-family
homes and $168,750 for condos and
townhomes for the first half of 2010,
according to the Gallatin Association of
Realtors and the Southwest Montana
Multiple Listing Service.
Sales tax: None
State income tax: The rate is graduated
in seven brackets from 1% of taxable
income under $2,600 to 6.9% (minus
$496) of taxable income above $15,600.
Income tax exemptions: A retirementincome exemption of up to $3,640 per
person is available if federal adjusted gross
income is less than $30,320 for 2010. A
partial exemption is available if income is
below $32,140 for singles or $33,960 for
married couples filing jointly. The exemption is indexed with inflation. Also, each
taxpayer age 65 and older may exclude
up to $800 in interest income.
Estate tax: None
Inheritance tax: None
Property tax: The calculation is complex,
using a formula that includes a state tax
rate. The tax can be estimated at about
1% of a home’s purchase price. For more
information, contact the Gallatin County
Treasurer’s Office, (406) 582-3030.
Homestead exemption: Homeowners
get an exemption of 39.5% off their property’s market value.
Personal property tax: Motor vehicles
are subject to a county option tax of .5
percent of the manufacturer’s suggested
retail price, with the value depreciating
yearly by a state-set percentage. Annually
the state charges a flat registration fee of
$217 for passenger vehicles less than 4
years old, $87 for vehicles 5 to 10 years
old and $28 thereafter.
Religion: There are more than 50
churches, a pair of synagogues, a Buddhist temple, an Islamic center and
mosque and a Sikh place of worship in
the Bozeman area.
Education: Montana State University
was founded in 1893 and is home to
the Museum of the Rockies, noted for its
collection of dinosaur fossils and paleontology program. The university, with
about 13,000 students, offers numerous
degree programs as well as continuingeducation classes and noncredit enrichment courses at discounted rates for seniors. The Bozeman Senior Center provides activities and services, including fitness classes, for adults 50 and older, and
has volunteer opportunities, as do several organizations.
Transportation: Gallatin Field Airport,
eight miles northwest of town, has up to
25 daily flights during peak season, going
to such destinations as Salt Lake City, Denver, Las Vegas, Seattle and Chicago. Shuttle to Big Sky & Taxi, (888) 454-5667,
offers airport transfers to and from the city,
Big Sky Resort and Yellowstone National
Park. Additional shuttle service is available.
The free Streamline bus system, (406)
587-2434, runs Monday through Friday
during the day and Thursday, Friday and
Saturday nights in Bozeman and to several surrounding communities, with seasonal routes for Bridger Bowl Ski Area.
Streamline connects with Skyline bus for
travel to and from Big Sky. Buses are
wheelchair accessible and equipped with
bike racks.
Health care: Bozeman Deaconess Hospital, an 86-bed acute-care facility, is a
licensed Level III trauma center with
advanced medical care. It has a cancer
center; dialysis unit; surgical, lab, radiology and rehabilitation services; and cardiac, vascular and pulmonary care
among services. The town also has a
number of health-care clinics.
Housing: Bozeman boasts a large
number of older, and in many cases, historic properties in the downtown area
with prices from $275,000 to $1 million.
The Knolls at Hillcrest, (406) 5227084, is a new 55-plus community
alongside The Highlands, a large master-planned development close to
downtown, the university and the hospital. The Knolls has trails with more
paths planned, along with parks and
other amenities. Maintenance-free, sin-
gle-family homes start in the high
$300,000s. Adjacent to The Knolls is
Hillcrest Senior Living, (406) 5562008, with independent-living apartment homes in Aspen Pointe and assisted-living units in Birchwood. It’s associated with the hospital. Also on the south
side, Alder Creek offers homes from
$275,000 to the $600,000s, and West
Meadow includes some of the area’s
most expensive homes priced from
$350,000 to $950,000. To the west,
there are new homes in Valley West,
(406) 587-0154, from $199,000 to
$300,000, and about seven miles from
town newer, well-built homes with
beautiful views can be found in Elk
Grove, (406) 582-7490, from $250,000
to $450,000. Contact local realty agents
for information on communities.
Visitor lodging: There are dozens of
choices among hotels, vacation rentals
and bed-and-breakfasts in Bozeman.
Lewis & Clark Motel, located in the historic
downtown, offers a hot tub, fitness facilities and free breakfast and Internet, from
$49, (800) 332-7666. The Holiday Inn,
convenient to MSU, has a business center,
free Internet, full restaurant and indoor
pool, from $99, (406) 587-4561. Hilton
Garden Inn, next door to the Bozeman
Area Chamber of Commerce on the city’s
north side, has a breakfast buffet, free
Internet, indoor pool and fitness center,
from $139, (406) 582-9900.
Information: Bozeman Area Chamber of
Commerce and Convention and Visitors
Bureau, 2000 Commerce Way, Bozeman,
MT 59715, (406) 586-5421 for chamber,
(800) 228-4224 for visitor information or
www.bozemanchamber.com and www.
bozemancvb.com. The visitors center is
located at 1003 N. Seventh Ave.
and fierce subzero temperatures common to many areas of the state. Yet,
on average, the area snowfall exceeds
80 inches each season. The weather
hasn’t been a deterrent to the retirees
interviewed, however.
“We were greeted by a 20-inch
snow the week we moved in,” says
Bill. “I don’t think we’ve had a snow
like it since. Plus, this is a drier cold
with sunny breaks, quite unlike the
cold, wet, dreary winters back East.”
Bill, 81, was a career government
lawyer whose last stint was with the
Office of Management and Budget in
Washington, DC. Trica, 77, spent 19
years as a paralegal at the Federal
Trade Commission. They tried retirement at their longtime country home
in Pennsylvania’s Delaware Valley, but
the location proved too remote,
requiring long, difficult drives for supplies, services and medical care.
In Bozeman, Bill and Trica settled
into a two-bedroom apartment home at
Aspen Pointe, a 115-unit independentliving component of the Hillcrest Senior
Living community that also includes an
assisted-living complex, Birchwood.
Aspen Pointe has a lodgelike common
area, fitness facilities, masseuse services
and a dining room among amenities.
The two neighborhoods are associated
with the nearby Bozeman Deaconess
Hospital, part of a large medical complex with doctors’ offices.
“Convenience has been one of the
biggest bonuses to come out of our
move to Bozeman,” Trica says. “We
can walk to Deaconess hospital — and
even into town or to the university.
That’s not only convenient, it’s healthful!” Bill adds, “We have everything we
need right at hand and we are as
happy as can be with our new home
— and with Bozeman in general. The
range of intellectual and spiritual stimulation we find here is quite astonishing for a city of only 40,000 people.”
Dick and Kate also chose a twobedroom apartment at Aspen Pointe.
“We’ve found the same kind of close
community here at Hillcrest with all
the comfort and companionship we
enjoyed for so many years at Big Sky,”
Dick says.
The senior communities are next to
The Knolls development, where Jane
bought one of the single-family homes
— the 1,515-square-foot, two-bedroom Avens model, a distinctive single-level layout with energy-saving
features. Situated atop a grassy ridge
overlooking the city and mountains,
the neighborhoods adjoin a linear
park with walking trails and The Highlands, a new 500-acre master-planned
project.
Like many places in the West, housing prices run higher than average
here. “The thing that almost deterred
us from coming to Bozeman,” Butch
says, “was the high price of real estate
— so high, in fact, that we decided on
a condo.” The Andrewses purchased a
three-bedroom, two-and-a-half-bath
unit in the Baxter Meadows neighborhood at a figure he feels was “quite
pricey” relative to other markets in
Montana.
“Bozeman home prices have run up
quite a bit in recent years, right along
with the city’s growing popularity,”
says local Prudential agent Carla
Healy, “but in the last year or so prices
have dropped off and now seem to be
settling in at a much more affordable
level.”
If Healy is right, Bozeman could be
a real bargain — but don’t forget to
pack the parkas.
Dave G. Houser is an award-winning
writer-photographer based in New Mexico and visited Bozeman for Where to
Retire.
Reprinted from Where to Retire Copyright 2010. For subscription information, call 713/974-6903, or visit www.WheretoRetire.com.