Cozumel Beach Reviews 140218

Transcription

Cozumel Beach Reviews 140218
Nah Ha 602
Mark & Denise’s Cozumel Beach Club Reviews
Traveling around the island and finding a great palapa beach bar or deserted beach is
part of the charm of Cozumel. We regularly spend a couple of days enjoying the south
and east side of the island doing what we call “palapa hopping”.
In our kitchen cabinets, you will find different sizes of soft-sided coolers, coozies &
beach bags to make your trip more enjoyable. Stock it with the beverage of your
choice. Freeze-packs to keep your drinks cold are in the freezer. We have found 2 of
the big ones will keep your beverages cold all day and they work better than ice.
Besides, you’ll need the ice for drinks when you get home. Bottle openers are on the
key lanyards. (Gira Top means “twist-off” in beer talk.)
A few things to keep in mind to help you understand the rules-of-the-road and make
your day enjoyable:
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Seat belts and moped helmets are required on the island. We highly recommend
them. Save yourself an almost certain accident-rent a car, not a moped.
Occasionally, the Police have checkpoints around the island. If you are wearing
your seatbelt, they usually wave you through. If you are not, they may stop
you. Have your driver’s license and rental paperwork handy. Speak a little
Espanol and your day will be better…but,
The Police now have breathalyzers. Failure to obey the two items above may
give them reason to test you. Read our, “I’ve Got Legal Problems” in our other
binder.
Make sure your gas gauge is working or pump about 2.5 gallons/12 liters of gas
in to get you around. There is a gas station just south of town called “PEMEX”
near the southernmost cruise ship pier. There are four gas stations on the
island. These are shown on our beach bar map.
Gas Scam Alert- As much as it saddens us to say this, you need to constantly
watch some of the guys who pump your fuel. It has never happened to us, but
you need to be aware of this potential sleight of hand.
o First, get out of the car and make sure the attendant resets the pump
meter by lifting the nozzle out of the pump. Make sure everything
resets to zero before he starts pumping. If the pump handle is out of
the pump when you arrive, check for the zeros. Use the pause in
conversation when he asks you how much you want to look at the pump.
o Second, keep your eyes on the pump meter at all times. Some
unscrupulous attendants have been resetting the meter as soon as you
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take your eyes off the pump. Their typical mode of operation is to act
“confused” as if the tank is full and ask you to go around and check the
gas gauge. Since the pumps are LED screen models, they then enter a
prepaid amount such as 200, 300, 400, 500 pesos which will show up on
the screen as the amount to pump plus (or minus) whatever they have
pumped. The attendant then says "look here is the amount”. But the
liter amount is at “0.00” because it is pre-set for another fill or partial
fill. (Alternatively, the amount of pesos he entered minus what he has
pumped after he changed the meter. i.e. 375 pesos left to pump from
400 pesos entered and you only got 5 liters.) Pay for only what was
pumped and immediately let the guy know you saw this. Sad, but you
need to know.
If you do break down, the island has a tourist patrol (green and white pick-up
trucks) that can assist you. Cell phones work in most places on the west side
and are starting to work on the east side. Take your phone AND the number
of your car rental company.
All of the east side palapa beach bars are free, except you should not bring
your own food and beverages onto their beach. Just leave them in the car. In
return, you get beverage service, good food, chairs, restrooms, beaches and
music. Stay as long as you like, tip your waiter and have fun. We will
sometimes take our cooler and set up camp 50 yards beyond the beach bar and
then later eat at the beach bar. This is perfectly acceptable.
We are finding more and more west side beach bars are offering “Package
Deals” or All Inclusive deals that provide drinks, entertainment and/or food for
a fixed cost or a per person minimum that is credited to your bill. The
packages vary and some places try to push these onto you as an “entry fee”;
especially if they think you are on a cruise ship. If these packages are of no
interest, simply ask that to pay as you go and run a tab. As an alternate, ask
to have the admission fee credited to your tab. It is impossible to track all
the varying deals each place offers as they change so often. We’ve listed what
we know at the time of printing. Never pay the cab driver for the package
deal-always pay the beach bar.
If you see a deserted stretch of beach you like, pull off the road and enjoy.
All beaches are public property. Watch for soft shoulders and shore erosion at
road edges. They are rarely repaired or marked. Do not leave valuables in your
car at any time. Lock them in the trunk or take them with you.
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All places take USD (usually at a 10:1 exchange rate) or pesos. Few beach bar
places, if any, take credit cards. You will get a better exchange rate if you
use pesos. All places speak English. Prices quoted are approximate.
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Most beach bars that are not in or near town open around 10:30-11 AM and
close at sunset. The beach bars in town or near the cruise ship piers stay open
much later.
Snorkeling is good at a few locations on the west side. Beware of the waves
and surf on the east side as some areas may have an undertow or rip current.
Keep an eye out for the red flags warning you of this condition. There are a
few lifeguard stations on the east side. When the conditions are right, you may
even catch a couple of surfers or kite boarders near Coconuts or Punta
Chiqueros.
Want to leave a souvenir? Many places allow you to donate your T-shirt to
their ever growing collection of shirts stapled to the roof.
Rental Car? Please read our “Renting a Car in Cozumel” in the binder for
important insurance information.
There are numerous Cozumel Island maps in the binder pointing out where the beaches
in this review are located. Beach bars open and close all the time and at odd hours.
Sometimes they look “closed” (cerrado) when they are open. Sometimes they look
“open” (abierto) when they are closed. It would take you several weeks to explore all
the great beaches Cozumel has to offer. Pick a few and enjoy!
Need to stock up on bottled water, drinks or adult beverages? Sedena, at the airport
road, Mega or Chedraui’s, can hook you up. The last two also have ATM’s if you need
pesos. Don’t forget the discount coupons in the binder on our coffee table.
If you plan on visiting Chankannab Park, Punta Sur (aka Faro Celarain Eco Park), el
Museo (the island’s museum) and Discover Mexico, you might want to consider buying
the “Cozumel All Pass”. It is priced at $35 usd per adult and $20 usd per kids,
includes unlimited admission for one week starting the day you buy it. Day “one” starts
on the day you purchase it. You can buy this at el Museo. It will save you about $14
pp if you went to each place without it. The Museum and Punta Sur “occasionally” have
no admission charges on Sundays.
We always like to leave the places we enjoy cleaner than when we found it. If you
are so inclined, take a trash bag with you to remove some flotsam from the east side
beaches. Trash bags and old plastic shopping bags may be found under the slide out
trash can to the left of the sink.
Of note-We do not accept advertising, kick backs, gratuities or comps to be included
in these reviews. These are our personal experiences over visiting the island for many,
many years.
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A Checklist of Things to Take
Coolers, Coozies & Ice Packs Beverages Bottled Water
Camera
Mobile Phone Suntan Lotion
Snorkel Gear Condo Keys Driver’s
License/Money/Rental Form
Sunglasses
Beach Towels
Water shoes/Sandals
Maps/Coupons
Trash Bag for Your Empties
A great attitude and sense of adventure!
Our reviews start at the Northwest end of the island and work their way South on
Avenida Melgar and counter-clockwise around the entire island until you hit the
transversal road. A “$” means there is/may be an admission charge. BB means Beach
Bar with food and/or beverages for sale. If we are aware of Package Deals at bars
that are not 100% AI (All Inclusive), we have provided a “PD”. Again, these deals
vary, so inquire in advance about the cost and what is included. Some places offer
multiple options of both. If they do ask for a fee, tell them you are not on a cruise
ship and the fee may be waived.
There is no ADA in Mexico. When we believe a place is moderately “accessible” and
with no steps to the restrooms, we have noted it with an HC. The west side bars are
generally more accessible than the east side bars.
If you have our map (downloadable from www.CozumelCondominium.com on the
“Activities” page and also in the condo), this review follows our Cozumel map.
North End Beaches
Passion Island BB $
If you take Melgar as far North as you can go and
then onto the dirt road, you will dead end at a boat
dock where you will see Passion Island several
hundred yards to the North. Ask one of the boats at
the dock to take you there. There may be a small
charge for the boat. They offer an AI price that is
about $45/person. It’s a small “island” with food and
beverages. It caters mostly to the all-inclusive
hotels and cruise ship people. “Bahia Ciega” is the
local name of the island. This has a really nice sandy
beach.
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Baby’s Head Island
There is very small sandbar to the left (West) of the
pier as you face the North. Simply hike or drive the
rutted trail past the anchored boat area and enjoy.
It is fun to wade out to and pretend you were the
first to “discover”.
The water was about 2’ deep between the shore and
the sandbar on 5/13. All you need are wader shoes or
sandals. If you are lucky, you might even share it
with a few kite boarders who use this as a training
area due to the shallow waters and wide open areas.
I took kite board lessons with DeLille Sports there
and it is a great place to learn and your friends can
watch.
We made up the name of this place based on finding a
plastic baby’s head on a stick More than likely, the
next storm will wash this sandbar away. It is a great
place to be left alone. A few locals were clearing an
area out there in 5/13. They told us it was going to
be a beach bar. Stay tuned for more details.
Barracuda Beach Club
With a little effort, you will find this place. Drive to
the dirt road North of town and go past Country Club
Estates. Turn left onto the cobblestone road and
follow this road. Bear left onto the next cobblestone
road and then bear right just past the solitary white
house. Barracuda is on the left. This is a small beach
bar that caters mostly to cruise ships, but it is
relatively undiscovered. They have little “James
Bond” micro-boats that are a lot of fun to drive.
They have a small, salt-water pool with swim up bar and a sandy beach. In the rainy season,
the water in this area is sometimes tea stained from the freshwater mangroves, and is still
safe to swim in. The food menu is limited and consists of tacos and fajitas. The nice thing
about this beach is you will almost always be alone. Clean restrooms.
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Country Club Estates Beach
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There are several sandy beaches on the North end
you can stop at and spread out a blanket. The area
located near these private homes has a decent beach.
This is about 1.5 miles north of Nah Ha. Simply drive
North into the development (look for the sign), park,
and walk along the narrow pathway to the left
(South) of the oceanfront beach houses. Ignore the
“residents only sign”, that is for the tourists-not for
you. (Remember, all beaches are publicly owned.)
This area occasionally gets turtle grass washed onto
the beach. (The picture is the public pathway to the
beach.)
Mike’s Beach Club is no longer open as a beach club. Occasionally they will have late night
local’s parties with bands. This is also a kite boarder’s favorite beach to hang out on when
the wind is right.
Playa Azul BB
This is a little beach bar with a mix of sand and iron
shore. This is part of the hotel, but it is open to the
public. Snorkeling is OK for people who haven’t gone
anywhere else as a comparison. We’ve heard there
was a “cover charge” but the many times we were
there, they were just glad to see a customer. They
usually have bands on Sunday afternoons around 2-3
PM. They ask for a small cover charge that will be
applied to your bill so keep your receipt. Check
w/Azul for the schedule.
Cozumel Caribe Club BB (aka Buccanos) ($/PD)
CCC is one of the better kept secrets on the island.
They have a nice pool, an excellent full service
restaurant, a man-made sand beach and a nice
snorkeling area.
This area is known as San Juan Beach and was the
site of the first Mexican Christian ceremony by
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Hornan Cortez. Some cruise ship passengers get dropped off here. However, there are no
screaming DJ’s or silly activities. There is soft, local music in the background and a small,
no pressure gift shop. They also have a nice pool and decent snorkeling. This is a pleasant
walk or short bike ride from Nah Ha. Make sure the blackbirds (grackles) don’t take off
with your fries!
The food, while pricey ($10 hamburger), is good. The ceviche is very good. To enter, head
for the “ghost ship” hotel (aka the Bates Hotel), turn in at the Cozumel Caribe sign and
when you get to the security guard, tell him you are going to Cozumel Caribe. You will/may
be asked to pay 100 pesos (about $8.50) or $50 pesos for a child. The voucher you receive
at the gate is credited to your tab. The $100 pesos is easily spent on a drink or three.
After paying, turn right and go past the hotel. If you have no success at asking for a “free
entry”, your alternate location is Playa Azul 200 yards to the north. (CCC offers a local
plan.) HC
CCC also offers rock climbing, massages, rental snorkel equipment, para-sailing and jet skis.
If it is raining, the “formal” restaurant has plenty of covered, outdoor seating. They serve
a great breakfast starting around 9 AM. The gift shop has surprisingly good deals.
They are open for dinner on Friday and Saturday nights with an excellent menu of fresh
catch of the day.
Nah Ha Condominiums- (Home Sweet Home)
Nah Ha is private so it won’t be unusual for you to have the pool to yourself. There’s no
need to mark your space with a towel at 6AM as you would at other resorts.
Snorkeling-The current usually runs South to North
(left to right as you face the mainland) so start by
swimming south to town and drifting back north.
Another cool thing to do: walk down to just past the
Coral Princess hotel, jump in and snorkel back to
Nah Ha. It’s a 30-45 minute snorkel. Keep an eye
out for fishing and dive boats if you are more than
100 yards from shore. This is fun to do at night as
a lot of creatures come out that you normally won’t
see during the day. Complimentary snorkel gear is
located in our bodega (pool level) for your use.
Keep a sharp eye out for the dolphin pod that swims by. Once, I had my snorkel gear at the
pool and swam out to intercept them. I got within 10’ before they noticed me. One turned
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to me, gave a few clicks just like Flipper, and then took off. Another time, we counted a
school of 20-simply amazing. Click on http://tinyurl.com/cq58c7r to see the video we put
on You Tube of that day.
You will see different things at different parts of
the day. You will see stingrays, eels, barracuda,
octopus, numerous other fish and maybe even a
few sailfish as we have. There are no signs or
bells to let you know when they are coming, so
keep a sharp eye out for them. Please be kind and
don’t poke or tease the animals. Watch for bait
fish being chased to the rocks by larger fish that
charge the shore and make a feast of the smaller
ones.
You can exit the water at any condo and walk back to Nah Ha if you are inclined to snorkel a
long distance. If you are hunting lion fish, there are 2 crevasse areas at the north and
south edges of the B Hotel. It’s a great place to use a pole spear on them.
Puerto Abrigo Bar
Within walking distance of Nah Ha, Abrigo opened
in the summer of ’09. A commanding second story
deck provides a view of the entire marina and it
faces west for a sunset view. They do not have
beach access. Reports on the food have been good.
No AC, but there is plenty of shade.
They
occasionally have live bands and karaoke at night.
They open later in the afternoon and we can never
figure out the exact time.
Playa las Casitas BB & Love Cafe
Directly across from the Navy barracks and near
the airport road on Melgar, and until the Love Café
opened, mostly a local’s hangout. It is a mix of iron
shore and sand.
The Love Café opened in
September, 2011 and is a great place for a sunset
drink, food and their house band Red Eye. Just
North of Love there is a Stand Up Paddle rental
place and another bar that is open at night. There
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are several nice statues and monuments along this area. It is very pretty at night and
makes for great sunset photos. If you need snacks or beverages for the beach, across the
street here is a convenience store called Sedena.
The current almost always runs South to North due to a re-circulating eddy. This is the
opposite of the normal flow.
A few hundred yards offshore, you will find large
blocks of concrete from the rebuilt Puerta Maya
pier that attracts large numbers of fish. The
depths are about 10’ to the structures and 20’ to
the seabed. You will find lots of fish here.
Further out and no longer marked with floats,
there are two sunken ships. There are two ships
about 75’ apart and are on the same axis with
each other. For safety, do not attempt this trip
alone as you will be 1/3 of mile from shore. You
should also consider taking a dive flag or dive sausage with you as there can be a lot of boat
traffic. You will find the northernmost boat about 100 yards west and 100 yards south of
the large yellow mooring buoy.
At this point, you will be on the north edge of town, just keep driving south and enjoy the
view.
South of Town Beach Bars
There’s not much to recommend “in-town” as far as
“beaches” except maybe the No Name Bar which is
behind the Barracuda Motel. This is mostly a bar but
they have a nice man-made beach. If you are walking
around town, this is a decent oceanfront bar. It
caters to the crew and performers on the cruise
ships so you may meet a few interesting people. Be
sure to check out the monuments and statues as you
go through town. As you head south and before you
get to La Ceiba Hotel, there are a few palapa bars on
the ocean near Papa Hog’s dive shop. They are: La Caletita, Sunset Beach, La Palapita,
Tio Jose, Tekila and La Hach. All are located between town and the La Ceiba hotel. If
you are in that area, they are good for a sunset drink and occasionally live music at night.
We’ve been to La Palapita and had a great time with the local Americans who hang out there.
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La Hach has decent food and is a good place to go if it is raining. Beware of the cruise ship
taxi traffic and cars. Papa Hog’s bar, a diver’s hangout, is across the street.
(Topes means “speed bump”, so pick up some speed when you see the signs.)
Bandana Beach Club
The Bandana Beach Club, aka "Aqua Bar", is located next to the Puerta Maya, just south of
town. This is a decent bar, lounge and beach club. The restaurant features leather stools
and cozy tables, creating a nice ambience to hang out and have drinks. On the "beach" you'll
find canopy beds for lounging in the sun.
The beach at Bandanas is small and has a rocky entrance into the water. The rocky
shoreline makes for excellent shore snorkeling where you can see lots of tropical fish.
Watch out for boats as they are numerous in this area. Honestly, this is more of a cruise
ship stop, but we have listed it to be inclusive.
Discover Mexico ($)
Located on the new main road around the island. Not
really a beach bar, but a “cultural museum” on the
left as you leave town. Several people we know have
gone there and have been impressed. There are
miniature replica models of a great deal of island and
Mayan history. This could be a good rainy day place
to visit. ($15 adults/$10 kids) HC
Western/Southern End Beaches
The new roadway is now complete. It is an interstate compared to the old road. You will
pick it up just past Puerta Maya, the cruise ship pier on the south edge of town. However,
to get to some of the playas and have the best views of the water you need to take the old
road. At Puerto Caleta marina, you’ll see a road on your right and a sign for El Presidente
Hotel. That’s the old road. You can’t get lost as both roads run parallel to each other. Take
the old road. You really need to experience this. Try not to hit the iguanas sunning
themselves….they aren’t the smartest creatures out there. Watch out for bikes, runners
and scooters.
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You’ll need to take a right onto the “old road” near the el Presidente Hotel to get to
the next few bars.
The Money Bar BB (former Dzul Ha Beach Club)
This is just past el Prez and had some of the best
pre-Wilma snorkeling on the island. Some of the
reason for snorkeling is gone, but it is still good fun.
There is a small man-made beach with sun soaked and
shaded tables. There is also a covered bar
w/excellent food. Beers are $2.75 and Happy Hour is
5-7 PM (2 for 1’s). Friday, Saturday and Sunday from
6-9 there is always a good band to get people on their
feet with popular tunes. Friday seems to be the best
of the weekend nights for having fun. Check their
Facebook page for details.
The MB is easy to find as across the street is a Las Vegas-like condo project. The palapa
area features teak floors and a modern bar. The food is excellent and they are open for
lunch and dinner. If you are snorkeling, watch for sea urchins getting in/out of the water.
Water shoes are a plus. The reef balls do a good job of attracting fish. Snorkel equipment
is available for rent. If you are a diver, this could be your surface interval stop. HC and
clean restrooms.
Fiesta Americana BB
This is not actually a beach bar, but the orange and rust colored pool and bar for the bright
orange hotel on your left. It is open to the public with open and covered dining. Last time
we drove by it, they were waving us into the place. You will occasionally see people snorkeling
in this area. There is a beach bar as well as white linen dining in an AC’d environment. With
so many other good choices to play, this is one place
we have not stopped to investigate.
Veradero 2001 (old “El Pirata” Beach Club) BB
This is the two story building and pink bar on the left
after F.A. Basically, it was a place for a beer, a meal
and snorkeling across the street. $20 peso beer may
be its only claim to fame.
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UVAS BB ($ PD AI)
UVAS is located on the old road. It has a very nice
layout but I just don’t see the need to “pay to play”
on a beach. You can get a massage here. Just a bit
more upscale than the other beach bars. Very
attractive entryway, nice grass and palm trees. The
sand beach is a bit small, but nice. Has a pool and
rental kayaks, etc. They require a minimum purchase
per person, but swagger in and they won’t ask you for
it. You can do food, see-through kayaks, beverages
and various other activities for a lump sum up to $59.
Ask for the package descriptions and prices up-front.
This is a really nice stretch of sandy beach. Snorkeling will not be that great due to the
sand.
Chankanaab Park BB ($ PD)
You can access this from the new or old road. This is
the island’s state “theme” park. There are walking
trails, swimming, food, snorkeling, entertainment and
just generally hanging out. Think of it as a cross
between public beach/eco park/souvenir place.
This is a day trip in itself. They have dolphin and sea
lion swims but that is an extra charge. There are a
few underwater statues to see. ($16 adults/$11
children +/-, See page 2 for possible discounts.) You
could spend the entire day here, if you wanted. HC
Playa Corona BB
PC is accessed from the new or old road. It used to
have some of the best snorkeling and beaches in the
area. It lost a good bit of the beach when Hurricane
Wilma stopped by. There have been continuous
improvements since Wilma including a man-made
beach area with tables. A good bit of the reason to
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snorkel there is gone, but probably worth a try and a beverage stop if you are so inclined.
They have added a few palapas, lots of tables and a sandy beach area since Wilma. Update
05/10: We heard that they may be charging a $10 minimum charge per person. If true,
there are better places on the island.
The following places are visible from the new, divided road. There is not much difference
between the next four beach bars reviewed and CnC’s, San Francisco and Paradise are side
by side to each other and it is hard to tell where one ends and the other begins. All offer
food, beverages, rental equipment, jet skis, para-sailing, henna tattoos, hair braiding,
trinket souvenirs, massages and more. Cruise ship passengers are usually dropped off here
in droves. If you need to be entertained or enjoy crowded or boisterous beaches, then
these are for you……if not, consider visiting on Sunday when the cruise ships aren’t in town.
The boats and jet skis stir up a lot of sand, so don’t expect crystal blue waters.
Carlos ‘n Charlie’s Beach Bar BB
Is brought to you by the same guys who own the
“C‘nC” in town. Roberto Salgado (a former Nah Ha
owner) and his brother bring you more of the same.
You’ll hear decent music and enjoy very cold beer.
In spite of what you might think about a “chain”
restaurant, the food is actually quite good. This is
next to another beach bar so it is hard to tell
where one starts and stops. It is a fun place to
watch the over-intoxicated. The beach was sandy
and very nice. Beers are $4. Very clean restrooms.
HC
Playa San Francisco BB, PD $
Has a nice beach. It caters to the throngs of cruise
shippers that are dropped off by boat and bus.
The food is good and there are tons of things to do
like kayak, jet ski and climb the floating water
structures (extra charge?). They also have a small
pool. It is a bit too busy for us on days we want to
be left alone. It is a good place to tire out
teenagers if you have the cash to pay for jet skis
and banana tube rides. $10 pp minimum to use the
facilities that is credited to your tab.
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Paradise Beach aka Playa Paradise BB, (PD $ varies)
Again, another nice beach. They also cater to the
cruise shippers that are dropped off by boat and
the seating, while plentiful, is packed in tight. The
food is good and there are tons of things to do like
kayak, jet ski and climb the water structures.
They now have a very nice, large pool up with a swim
up bar. We have been told that there is a $2 pp
charge for the beach chairs at the pool/beach and
this cost might not be posted at the entrance. Ask
up front and tell them you intend to eat and drink
during your stay and the fee will probably be waived.
There is a space walk (bungee corded trampoline where you can do flips) and the climbing
palm trees. The bracelets were $9 and include the climbing iceberg, water trampolines,
float mats, kayaking, palm trees. The space walk was supposed to be an extra $5 but they
were including it as a special the last time we were there. As always…..negotiate!
Playa Mia/Sol BB ($12 admin or $47 AI)
We’ve been here several times and they also have a nice sandy beach. It also caters to the
throngs of cruise shippers that are dropped off by boat and bus.
The food is good and there are tons of things to do
like kayak, jet-ski and climb the water structures.
They offer a pool, massages, ping pong and a bungee
trampoline. There is also a small zoo. This is the
white tent structure that looks like the udders of
an upside down cow that can be seen from the main
road. I have had lunch there many times while
diving. There is no real snorkeling as this is a sand
beach. Think of this as an AI beach. You can buy a
bracelet to cover all, non-motorized vehicles, food
and beverages for about $47 or 500 pesos. Clean
restrooms. HC
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Mr. Sancho’s BB, PD
Sancho’s is a lot like Playa Mia, Paradise and San
Francisco but is smaller and less crowded than the
aforementioned places, but not by much. See the
donkey sign on the main road? That’s it. This is the
surface interval stop for Aldora and I have had
many lunches there. The food is very good. There
are a few gift and trinket shops that sell the same
kind of stuff you can buy in town. It has a decent
sandy beach and lots of inflatable toys in the water
for kids to play on and a nice pool with swim up bar.
To either side are excellent walking beaches. Very clean restrooms. My only criticism is
that sometimes they play the music too loud under the palapa. (Denise can’t believe I just
said the music was too loud. Well, it certainly wasn’t my type of music, otherwise it would
be OK.) They offer an AI food and beverage package deal at about $50 for adults and $35
for children. (HC with a steep ramp to the restrooms.)
Nachi Cocom BB ($)
NC is now open to the public and probably one of the
best AI beach clubs on the island. It used to serve
the adjacent AI and is an upscale beach club with a
pool and Jacuzzi. It has a very nice beach. Look for
the Mayan sculpture on the main road as its sign.
There apparently is no cover charge, but they require
a minimum charge per person applied to the food. If
they ask for money at the “door”, negotiate and
settle up when you leave. Otherwise the all inclusive
price is $29 for kids and $49 for adults. The food is
good, but not an “all you can eat”. You are allowed to order one item from each of the menu
sections. Drinks are in your admission price. People who go there like it, but we have never
felt the need to pay for our beach bars when there are so many good, free ones.
For the next couple of miles, the 2 lane road is very potholed. Your best bet is to get onto
the larger, smoother road at this point.
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El Cedral Ruins
El Cedral is a small, inner island village with a small
Mayan ruin. This was the first settlement on the
island. Look for the giant arch on your left as you
head south. We’ve toured it several times. It is a
sleepy village that you can drive in 15 minutes. It’s
worth the short detour and you can’t get lost. You’ll
find a few good photo ops and a few small shops.
There is a small store there that sells basic food
staples and beer.
Once a year, at the end of April, they put on a free
festival (fiera) that attracts thousands of locals for
the exhibits, food, music and events. The townies
open up their homes and sell meals in their front
yards or living rooms. They have horse races, pony
rides, real bull fights ($300 mp) and cock fighting.
The bull fights are not for the squeamish and can be
quite gory. I understand this is a Mexican tradition
and I’m glad we went so we could have the
experience. However, we will skip the bull fighting
next time as we didn’t consider it to be a “fair fight” as there was almost zero risk to the
matadors.
Alberto's BB (West Side)
You’ll see this from the new road. They have a very
nice sand beach and palapa area. The food is
excellent. Try the fish or shrimp tacos. They are
also open for dinner and serve it under the palapa
by candlelight. Our waiter was funny and very
attentive. This is a good place for a dusk beach
dinner. Bring bug spray for the evening.
Alberto’s is next to an AI, so you do get some
traffic from them. There is no cruise ship traffic
that we can tell. It is one of our favorite, quiet places. The food highlight was when the
waiter walked by with lobster and red snapper on a tray. Be sure you know exactly what the
price is for your lobster meal when you order it. We’ve heard several stories of the price
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increasing w/o warning. Massages are offered on an irregular schedule. Restrooms are old
and not the best. As this is a sand beach, snorkeling is not the best.
Playa Palancar BB
This is another of our favorite beaches. Look for
the sign, turn right and travel down a pot-holed dirt
road for several hundred yards. They offer decent
food, cold beer and nice beaches. A few cruise
shippers have started to arrive by cab so it is not as
sleepy as it used to be. There are no beach games or
beach toys to distract you from serious chillin’.
There is a snorkeling boat that leaves on a regular
schedule that people enjoy for about $30. Clean
restrooms and there is a step up for HC access.
Look for the peacocks that strut around the place.
There are also a few other animals to see. Look for
the crocodile behind the fence at the parking lot.
He is wild and the fence is for your protection. Take
a nice walk on the beach in both directions and look
at the hundreds of old conch shells.
The southernmost tables with palapas are for people
who order meals. We ordered some chips and that
seemed to satisfy him. There are also tables to the
north and the food requirements are not enforced.
Filemon is our favorite waiter. Tell him we said hello.
To The East Side!
After you leave Palancar, you will have a short 10
minute drive to the next beach as you shortcut
across the island to the east side. If you are
driving the old road, when you see the big la ceiba
tree on your left, you are almost there. Please
note the Stop sign when you get to Paradise’s place.
Cops like to hang out there. The new road and old
road merge together about 100 yards past Paradise.
The area is also known as Punta Sur/Celarain.
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(Keep Driving, It’s Not That Far!)
THE EAST SIDE OF THE ISLAND
The east side has the most scenic beaches. On Sundays, it can be wall-to-wall with locals.
See a nice beach? Simply find a spot and stop. Make sure you have two wheels on hard dirt
so you don’t get stuck. If you look carefully, you might find a few “blowholes” in the iron
shore that make for great photographs. We have continually found wonderful “new”
beaches before Playa Bonita Beach Bar and just after Punta Morena.
The best and most isolated beaches on the island are here. As mentioned earlier, beware of
the rip currents and undertow. The coolers and coozies (Did you remember the bottle
opener?) will come in handy on this side of the island. Some areas are sand and some are
iron-shore.
Be aware that some people sunbathe topless. The islanders discourage this, but it is not
illegal. “Those aren’t real…those aren’t real…she should be shot”, as Denise would point out
to me. I simply say, “God Bless America” (or Viva Mexico?).
Freedom in Paradise/ Bob Marley’s
(Playa Box or Bush) BB
Just when you think you have been driving forever,
you see “Paradise”. It is easy to recognize. It was
rebuilt after Wilma totally destroyed it. It has lost
some of its quaint charm as it is a lot bigger, newer
and nicer. It is among the bigger places on your east
side tour. They offer decent pub style food and good
music. Tradition dictates you stop there for a beer
as all your friends have. Bring a t-shirt to leave. A
Sharpie to sign your name won’t hurt either. The
water will be rough and you really don’t want to swim
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here. There is a sandy beach 50 yards away. The bathrooms are OK, but not the best.
Denise has had several massages there and she was the Jell-O Girl afterwards.
Feeling adventurous? Where the old road and new road merge, look for a 4’ foot diameter
hole in the coral near the water. Lower yourself into the hole and look towards the water
and you will be rewarded with an interesting view of the ocean and your own private grotto.
Rasta’s BB
Is across from Paradise Beach Bar. It has a nice
elevated platform with a good view, but no beach. The
beer is about a dollar cheaper than Paradise. Music is
good. Food is served, but we haven’t eaten there.
From what we can tell, Paradise and Rasta’s are owned
by the same people. Look for the big hog sleeping in
the shade. He may be your breakfast one day!
Punta Sur Park BB aka Reserva Ecológica Faro Celarain ($)
This is on the road to your right (West) as you arrive at Rasta’s/Paradise. It’s a nice, 3-4
hour eco trip run by the government. Some of the meanest salt water crocs you will ever
see live in the lagoon. They have a pier built into this area so you can check them out. Bring
a chicken wing or two with you to feed the crocs! It has a decent beach. It also has a
lighthouse where you can climb to the top and check out the view. At the bottom of the
lighthouse is a small gift shop and museum.
They sometimes have large open, safari like vehicles
for shuttling you around. There is snorkeling (calm
water) and a safari ride to a mangrove area. You can
stay at each place for as long as you want and then
catch the next shuttle. There is a small snack bar and
it is just that, snacks and drinks. They won’t let you
bring in a cooler or food, but you can “sneak” it in
your backpack should you decide to freelance your
tour. The snorkeling reef with floating resting
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platforms gets good reviews. In windy weather, you need to be a strong swimmer to make
all the platforms. $10 +/- pp to ride their vehicles or $5 pp to drive your car and park near
the lighthouse. The name change to “Faro Celarain” occurred in mid-2009. See page 2 for
possible discount passes to this location.
As the road curves to the east side and you leave Freedom in Paradise, you will start
heading North and closer to town.
El Mirador BB
Is a small beach bar with a few vendors selling
trinkets. There’s not much here, but the view is
great. Climb the rocks (you’ll need sandals or water
shoes) and enjoy the view. The remnants of the
natural hot tub are still there and worth a climb down
into it.
The bad news- it used to be the romantic make-out
spot before the “walls and roof” got blown out by Wilma. The good news? No more unplanned
pregnancies. Stop and take a picture of the blow holes. No restrooms.
Playa Bonita/Punta Chiqueros BB
You will recognize this place by the pyramidal
concrete roofs. Playa Bonita literally means
“pretty beach” in Spanish. Note that this is the
name of the bar. The area is called Punta
Chiqueros. The burger was huge on our last visit
and at a decent price. In January, ’09, the beach
had all but disappeared. It came back and then it
was gone again in April, ‘10. The sand was coming
back in May of 2013. Who knows what it will be
next week. We’ve noted that a lot of debris from
South America has washed up on the shore just
north of here.
However, the area to the south of Playa Bonita is a great place to spread out a beach
blanket. Winds may drive seaweed to this area from time to time. The building color has
been changed from green to orange, but we like our picture better. HC
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Chen Rio BB
This is more of a local’s place. The beaches are very nice, with calm, protected water and
there are some rocks you can climb. Some people swear by the great food, but we think it is
a bit pricey for what you get. The waiters seem to get a bit dismissive if you don’t order
food. They have a special seating section for diners vs. those who are there for drinks. It
used to be a stop for us, but their attitudes about not being a “big paying customer” have
made it a place for us to skip unless we have our own cooler and want to enjoy the adjacent
beach.
If you are coming from the South, the beach just
before Chen Rio is nice to stop and enjoy. The
area is protected from strong currents and is a
good place to snorkel. If you dive with Aldora
and dive the east side, this will be your starting
point of the trip.
Update: Given other “good reviews”, we gave it
another try. We still like the beach, but the
service is still so-so and the food is still very
expensive ($12-25 pp). Recently, Chen Rio has
taken upon itself to pad the bill when selling seafood by the pound and/or not offering a
detailed accounting of your bill. Apparently taking advantage of tourists has become “sport”.
Because of this, we don’t recommend Chen Rio unless you can carefully keep track of your
bill.
El Pescador BB is next Chen Rio BB and so close to Chen Rio we didn’t even recognize it was
a different place. We visited El Pescador on 9/13. They have covered and outdoor seating
with umbrellas and have done a great job of fixing up the beach. This is a legitimate bar
and restaurant. As most nicer places on the east side are , things are a bit expensive.
Mixed drinks were $5-9. Food ran from $9 for a burger and $18 for a shrimp platter.
These guys will put the squeeze on Chen Rio. They also didn’t play games with the exchange
rate and it was a reasonable 12:1 when we were there.
Coconuts BB Is a must stop place. Located on a bluff, the view is incredible. There is a
beach below, but it is not serviced by the restaurant. Cuco and his staff will take care of
you. Bring a T-shirt to leave behind. The food is more pub fare than gourmet. I like the
fish sandwich (aka fish hamberguesa at $120 pesos) and the cheeseburgers. The fish tacos
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are also great. The meals have continued to get pricier, but you can’t beat the view. If you
aren’t hungry, just stop by for a beverage-it’s no problema here. They play XM radio and
you will recognize the music.
If you have a sense of humor, ask to see their
photo albums. Definitely adults only. Want to be
in it? Get your picture taken and get a shot of
tequila for free! We’ve seen some friends in these
albums. Mums the word!
The house dogs will be more than able to take care
of your leftovers for you, but they have OD’d on
chips. Please don’t encourage the pooches to
follow you to the road as they might get hit by the
cars. Clean restrooms. The trinket vendors on the
street will negotiate on the prices of their jewelry as it is way overpriced to start with.
Given the steep climb, this is not HC accessible, but well worth the effort if you can do it.
Ventanas/Chumul Beach Area
Has one of the widest, softest and best beaches on
the island. It is about 100 yards north of Coconuts.
There is a small eco-motel there. Park in the
Coconuts lot and walk to the beach. The beach
chairs belong to the hotel and are not for the
general public. There is no true bar service at the
beach, but if someone is at the mini-restaurant, you
can buy a beer. It is definitely a bring your own
cooler deal.
The government built a changing room and some palapas on the beach north of Ventannas
motel. These are the same style as the ones at Playa San Martin. HC platform
For the next mile or so, you will find some of the most spectacular beaches and iron-shore
anywhere. Your hardest decision will be where to stop. Be cautious of the edge of the road
as it may be soft from erosion.
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Alberto’s Beach Bar (East Side)
Alberto’s on the east side didn’t last long. They were gone in 9/13.
Punta Morena BB
You will notice this place by the large thatch palapa
roof, big parking lot, numerous smaller palapas and
the surfboard signs. The beach is very nice and
their numerous hammocks are good for a couple of
hours of nap time. Massages, in a screened palapa,
are offered at $40 for 30 mins. There is a sand
volleyball court. A protected lagoon offers wave
action on a diminished level. If the weather is calm,
the snorkeling outside the rocks is excellent with
fish, coral and swim-throughs. Punta Morena has a
really nice shallow water pool and bar with swings.
At $10-20 per plate, their food is pricey. For a
light meal, the plates could be split between two
people. The nachos could have fed three people.
Beer was $4 in 2013. They are now offering surf
lessons. For a place as large as this, you would
expect there would be an admission charge.
However, they make it up with food and beverage
sale prices. They do a lot of package deals with the
Jeep and sand rail tours, but this place is large
enough to find a nice, quiet place to relax. Put this
on your list if you want a really nice, large, sandy beach and good food.
However…..We like to swagger like the locals do and speak decent Spanglish. On trip we
were given an English menu with prices in USD. The mixto ceviche was listed at $25 usd.
We insisted on the pesos menu and the same dish was $250 MP or about 24% cheaper using
the exchange rate at the time. When we asked for the bill (we knew the exact amount in
pesos) the waiter verbally told us the bill and it was $100 MP more than we owed. Sooo…pay
in pesos and keep track of your cost or ask for a factura (receipt) to ensure your bill is
correct. On our 9/13 trip, a similar thing happened but with a twist. We asked for the menu
in pesos. Later he gave us the bill in USD. When we asked for the bill in pesos, he used the
same bad 10:1 exchange rate and “clipped” us again. We called the waiter on it and he was
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unapologetic and said it was the tip. Except for the nice beach, we now have a hard time
recommending this place.
Playa San Martin
We’ve driven past this area for years. It was just another beach on the way to the next
place. Any place over the next mile is a great place to pull over and stop. Pack a cooler and
enjoy. Beware of the soft shoulders on the side of
the road. There is a lifeguard station at this location.
There is no issue with alcohol on the beach. Be sure
to take your empties back with you. We always take
an extra trash bag and pick up a few “strays” left
behind to leave it cleaner than we found it.
There is a changing room and platform viewing area.
These are also the same style as the ones at Chumul.
HC at the platform. No toilets. Be aware of rip
currents in this area. They can be deceptively strong.
The following photo is a panoramic shot of the St. Martin area, and needs nothing more to
describe what it was like……Ahhhhhh.
Andale’ Beach Bar (aka el Diablo/Galleon)
This is a beach bar on the west side of the road
that has had several name changes including el
Galleon and Diablo. This is now being run by Chris
and Sharon formerly of Wet Wendy’s and Thirsty
Cougar fame. Wonderfully nice people. There is a
very nice beach to the right. Park in their lot or
the street, grab a drink and head over to the
beach via the steps. There is a small life guard
station and drinking on the beach is acceptable.
(Yes….in the same sentence!) It is a good place to
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enjoy the beach and “beverage” yourself. 150 yards north of here, the government built a
changing room and some palapas on the beach side. The palapas were damaged in 2013, but
they may get rebuilt. These are good viewing places for wheelchair persons due to the large
flat platform on top that is moderately accessible from the road. Open 10AM until sunset.
Senor Iguanas BB
Is located near the end of your trip around the island
and just before the sharp left hand turn that takes
you to town. It is family run, offers cold beer and
the cleanest restrooms on your trip. The beach lost
most of its sand but it is slowly coming back.
Volleyball courts are on the beach. They have huge
margaritas! Paved parking is right in front. We have
heard they have “accidentally” included the IVA tax
on the bill. Don’t pay it. There is no tax on food and
drink. Politely ask them to remove it or take it out of
the tip if you don’t get satisfaction. Honestly, it bothers us when businesses try to take
advantage of tourists. The food is average to good. If you are this far north on the east
side, eat at Coconuts, Punta Morena or Chen Rio. HC
Mescalito’s BB
Mescalito’s is next to Iguanas and a little bit bigger.
Nice hammocks and the food is good. The beach lost
some of its sand, but it is still a nice stopping point.
Bring a t-shirt to leave behind. Bring a sharpie and
sign the column at your palapa. Beware of the
margaritas! Muy potento, a bit small and pricey, but
very good! The hammocks are a nice place to replenish
your energy from a day of 12 oz. workouts. A free
shot for those who “flash” the bartender.
The Dirt Road Headed North Behind Mescalitos
Is a very rough, sandy road to the Punta Molas light house. Sounds like a great trip, doesn’t
it? Think your Jeep has 4WD? Think again. It has been disconnected. We do not
recommend you drive in this area. Also, your insurance is void if you drive off-road.
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Years ago, we attempted to do this trip and got stuck
several times only to find out the road was too narrow
to turn around. If you get stuck, don’t plan on waiting
for another car to help you. There won’t be any.
Walking, or even driving down the road or beach is
permitted. Be sure to use bug spray as the mosquitoes
from the mangroves will attack. I’d do this in a
heartbeat in an ATV if I could go to the Punta Molas
Lighthouse. The picture above was taken from our
plane ride home.
This area is also a favorite for spearfishing with Leo if the water is calm.
The Cross Island/Transversal Road to Town
Police checkpoints are occasionally on this road. Re-read the first page of this review.
Have all your seatbelts fastened, paperwork handy and you are good-to-go. They may wave
you by as long as your beer cans don’t fall out of the car. The transversal road was made
into a 4 lane highway in 2007. You could call it the Mexican Autobahn. Watch out for cars
entering from the side roads, bikes, kids, scooters and dogs! Most of the side entries in
this area are rolling stops. Be prepared.
On your way home, you’ll find these interesting places.
Cava Antigua Tequila Museum $
There’s a tequila “museum” on the right. I’ve
spoken with some people who went and they thought
it would be a joke. I did as well. Upon arrival you
are given a muy potento margarita. We enjoyed the
guided tour and got to sample some premium tequila
and a lot more. We couldn’t decide which we liked
best, so we went back and sampled a few more again
and again. It was $10 well spent and we purchased
some very nice tequilas while we were there. (The
$10 was the cheapest part!) You can also
buy/sample these brands in town near the square.
HC
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San Gervaiso Ruins $
Mayan ruins. We’ve been to Chichen Itza and Tulum
on the mainland which is probably why these smaller
ruins haven’t impressed us much. Still, if you are
interested in Mayan culture, it’s worth the trip.
The guided tour is highly recommended. Bring bug
spray as you are in the jungle.
$5 pp w/o the
guide. This side road has a blind exit. Be careful
and watch for traffic at this intersection. There
was a serious accident between two Jeeps in the
fall of 2009. One Jeep made a rolling stop from the
side road and was hit at speed.
Cameron Dorado Restaurant
I wouldn’t normally put a restaurant on this, but if you are picnicking on a beach, this is the
place to grab a few soft tacos (or tortas if you want bread sandwiches) for lunch. Excellent
shrimp and fried fish tacos at great prices. It is about 1 mile out of town in the south side
of the street. They are closed on Sunday and open for breakfast. Take some foil or zip
locks with you and stick them in your cooler. If you are a McGyver type, wrap them in foil
and put them on the motor to warm them up.
PEMEX Gas
Low on fuel? Have no fear…..the newest PEMEX
station is on your right just before you enter town.
Prices are in liters (a little less than a quart).
Again, re-read the first page regarding the gas
station issues.
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Getting Back to Nah Ha
If you want to miss the in-town traffic, hang a right on 65th (at the big conch shell) and
you’ll be heading North towards the airport road. Hang a left at the traffic circle at the
airport and you’ll head straight to the ocean (West) and Avenida Melgar. Take a right onto
Melgar and you are on your way to Nah Ha. Be aware of mo-peds, topes and school kids on
this road.
It’s time to relax at the pool and watch yet another glorious sunset in Cozumel!
***
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Cozumel Beach and Beach Bar Reviews
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