Servi-Car Rider Hand Book

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Harley-Davidson
Servi-Cars are designed to handle your
transportation
requirements efficiently and economically, providing they are given the kind of care and consideration due to
any fine piece of machinery.
This instruction book contains information you will need to
. know to operate and care for your Servi-Car so that it will provide dependable and trouble free service. Follow the instructions
carefully and you will be assured of the best performance that
your Servi-Car can give.
This handbook is intended for the operator only, and contains
instructions for owner care and maintenance of a minor nature. Information covering repair of major units such as engine, transmtsston, etc. is provided in the Harley-Davidson Service Manual.
Work of this kind requires the attention of a skilled motorcycle
mechanic and the use of special tools and equipment. Your HarleyDavidson dealer has the facilities, experience, and genuine HarleyDavidson parts to properly render this valuable service.
Part
I
n
HARLEY ·DAVIDSON
MILWAUKEE'
MOTOR CO.
WISCONSIN
Page
SPECIFICATIONS ......•
4
CONTROLSAND OPERATION
9
1.
2.
3.
4.
9
9
5.
6.
7.
8~
9.
10.
Gasoline Supply Valve
Ignition-Light Switch
Spark Control Grip. .
Throttle Control Grip
Clutch Foot Pedal • •
Gear Shift Hand Lever
Brakes
.
Starter Crank .••.•..••••
Steering Damper Adjusting Knob •••••
Horn
.
·10
10
10
10
10
10
11
11
1
RE. 6-63
Printed
in U. S.A.
."'"<:.,
f:
Page
FCONTENTS
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
III
IV
CHASSIS
Page
Part
Instrument Panel Signal Lights
Towbar ...•...•.•
Starting the Engine •..
Starting a Cold Engine
Starting a Warm Engine .•
Starting a Hot Engine
Stopping the Engine • . .
Care of New Engine
.
Operating Tips
.
Locating Operating Troubles
SERVICING
18
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
18
19
22
23
25
25
25
26
27
27
28
Service and Maintenance Intervals
Engine •••.
Transmission
.
Chain Oilers
Chassis •...
Oil Applications .•.•
Generator Bearing - Commutator End
Hydra-glide Fork . • • • . • . • • • . •
Hydraulic Brakes • • • . •
Battery
•••.•••••
Keep the Servi-car Clean •
1.
2.
3.
4.
11
12
12
12
14
14
14
15
15
16
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
ENGINE
1.
2.
3.
4.
7.
Spark Plugs . • . . • • •
Carburetor Adjustments.
Circuit Breaker • • •
Ignition Timing . • • • .
Tappet Adjustment
.•.
29
29
32
32
34
TRANSMISSION
1. Gear Shift Control
2. Clutch Control .•
3. Clutch ••••..•.
2
35
37 .
37
38
41
43
46
ELECTRICAL
29
MAINTENANCE .
Chains ....
Brakes ..•.
Wheels and Tires
Saddle Spring Post
.
\
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
1.
2.
3.
4.
4A.
5.
6.
7.
8.
11.
12.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20•
Figure 21.
Headlamp •.•••.••.......••.
Generator Charging Rate and Regulator ..•
Inspecting or Replacing Generator Brushes.
Bulb Chart • • . . • • . . • • . • • •
Wiring Diagram Key (Standard) . . •
Wiring Diagram Key (Radio Special)
Right Side View
Left Side View •
Top View •..•
Gasoline Supply Valve
Ignition Light Switch
Towbar .•....•.•
Right Side of Engine .•
Carburetor
.
Circuit Breaker and Flywheel Timing Mark
Adjusting Tappets
Left Side of Engine . .
Chassis - Rear End
Repairing Drive Chain
Rear Brake Linkage ••
Front Brake Adjustment
Removing Front Wheel .
Saddle Spring Post ...•..••.•.
Replacing Headlamp Cycle-Beam Sealed
Unit ••.•..•••...••••..
Wiring Diagram (Standard and Radio
Special) • . . • . . . • . • . . . • • . . •
47
48
48
50
50
52
6
7
8
9
9
13
23
30
31
35
36
40
41
42
44
45
46
49
53
3
PART I
SPECIFlCA nONS
IGNITION SYSTEM
Model G •••
With Towbar
Model GA •
Less Towbar
·
022 in.
· Harley-Davidson No.3
·
14 mm
·
025 to .030 in.
Circuit Breaker Points
Spark Plugs - Type
Size
Gap
Spark Timing . . .
.......
DIMENSIONS
62-1/2 in.
103-1/2 in.
51-1/4 in.
Wheel Base ••••••••
Overall Length • • •
Overall Width • •
TRANSMISSION
.
Type ..
Speeds.
CAPACITIES
.
..
..
Constant Mesh
3 speeds forward, 1 reverse
NUMBER OF SPROCKET TEETH
3.4 U.S. Gallons (approximate)
• • • • • • • ••
3-1/2 Quarts
• • • •• 3/4 Pint (approximate)
Fuel Tank ••••
Oil Tank •••••••••
Transmission
26° B. T. C.
(9/32" Before Piston T. C.)
· 22
· 59
· 17
· 37
Engine
.
Clutch
.
Transmission
Rear Wheel.
ENGINE
Model Designation Letter.
Number of Cylinders
Type. • • • • • • • • • • • •
Horsepower ••••••••••••••••
Taxable Horsepower • • • •
Bore. • • • • • • • • • • • •
Stroke • • • • • • • • • • • •
Piston Displacement • • • •
Torque ••••••••••••
Compression Ratio • • • • •
• • • • • • • • • G
• • • • • • • • ••
2
• • • • • • • • •• 45 Degree V Type
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
• •
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
• •
• •
• •
• •
••
. •
21 H.P. at 4400 R.P .M.
• • • • • • • • •
6.03
••••
(69.85 mm) 2.75 in.
• • • (96.8 mm) 3.8125 in.
•• (742 c.c.) 45.28 cu. in.
30 Ib-It at 2400 R. P •M.
• • • • • • • •• 4.75 to 1
NOTE
The engine (serial) number (4, figure 2) of your
Harley-Davidson is stamped on the left side of the
engine crankcase. Always give this number when
ordering parts or making any inquiry about your
Servi-Car.
4
GEAR RATIOS
First (Low) Gear
Second Gear . . .
Third (High) Gear
Reverse Gear . .
·
·
·
·
.
.
.
.
14.4
9.17
5.85
12.45
to
to
to
to
1
1
1
1
TIRE DATA
Tire Size ...
Tire Pressure
. Front
12 lbs.
5.00 x 16
. Rear
16lbs.
The tire inflation pressures given above are for Servi-car with
empty box and rider weighing 150 pounds. Pressures may be increased slightly for loaded box and heavier rider.
5
..
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Cover Latch
Cover
Negative (Grounded) Battery Terminal
Horn
Rear Cylinder Spark Plug
Carburetor
Front Cylinder Spark Plug
Head Lamp
Front Wheel Axle Nut
Oil Tank Drain Plug
Oil Scavenger Pump
Ignition Circuit Breaker
Oil Feed Pump
Transmission Oil Filler Plug
Right Tail and Stop Lamp
..
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Headlamp Dimmer Switch
Carburetor Choke Lever
Carburetor Air Cleaner
Engine (Serial) Number
Positive Battery Terminal
License Plate Bracket
Left TaU and Stop Lamp
Clutch Inspection Hole Cover
Ignition CoU
Front Chain Inspection Hole Cover
Timing Inspection Hole Plug
Gasoline Supply Valve
Generator
Regulator
Front Wheel Axle Nut
Figure 2. Left Side View
Figure 1. Right Side View
6
7
PART
n
1. GASOLINESUPPLY VALVE
The gasoline supply valve (12, figure 2) is located on the left side
under the gas tank. The valve (figure 4) has two handles; one is
marked "RESERVE" and the other is unmarked. Gasoline to carburetor is shut off when both handles are in horizontal position.
Turning the unmarked handle to vertical position turns on main
gasoline supply; turning "RESERVE" handle to vertical posttton
turns on reserve supply.
Gas tank holds approximately 3.4 U,S. gallons. Approximately
1/2 gallon of this is retained in the tank for reserve supply when
the "RESERVE" handle remains in the horizontal position.
Use "ETHYL" or other "ANTI-KNOCK" gasoline.
'"
RESERVE
SUPPLY
(OFF)
Figure 4.
Gasoline Supply Valve
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Brake Hand Lever
9. Steering Damper.
Horn Button
Adjusting Knob
Spark Control Grip
10. Throttle Control Grip
Carburetor Choke Lever
11. Speedometer
Gear Shift Hand Lever
12. 011 Tank Cap
Gas Tank Cap
13. Instrument Panel
Ignition-Light Switch
Signal Lights
Clutch Foot Pedal
14. Rear Brake Foot Pedal
15. Starter Crank Pedal
Figure 3. Top View
8
Figure 4A.
Ignition-Light Switch
2. IGNITION-LIGHT SWITCH.
..
The ignition-light switch (7, figure 3) is locked and unlocked
with the lock key. It is not necessary to keep the key inserted in
the lock to operate this switch after it has been unlocked. The center position of the switch (figure 4A) is the off posttion for both
lights and ignition. The left of center position is for parking lights
only; the first right posttton is for ignition only and the second
right posttton, for ignition and running lights. The switch can be
locked only in the off and the park positions. Remember that
lighting the headlamp when the engine is not running also turns
the ignition on.
9
~. SPARK CONTROL GRIP
9. STEERING DAMPER ADJUSTINGKNOB
Turn the spark control grip (3, figure 3) inward to advance spark;
turn outward to retard spark. Fully advanced is the proper normal
running position. When the engine is laboring under a hard pull, retard the spark part way to avoid knocking and improve performance.
Turn steering damper adjusting knob (9, figure 3) clockwise to
apply dampening action and counterclockwise to reduce dampening
action. When riding at low and intermediate speeds, steering should
be free (very little dampening applied). When driving at high speeds
or over rough surfaces, apply dampening as needed to stabilize
steering.
4. THROTTLE CONTROL GRIP
Turn the throttle control grip (10, figure 3) outward to close
throttle; turn inward to open throttle.
10. HORN
5. CLUTCH FOOT PEDAL
The horn (4, figure 1) is operated by the horn button (2, figure
3) on the left handle bar. Tone may be set as desired by turning
the adjusting screw back of horn.
The clutch foot pedal (8, figure 3) is located on the left side
where it may be conveniently operated by the left foot. The clutch
is disengaged when the pedal is pressed down with the foot. Clutch
engages when foot pedal is released.
11. INSTRUMENT PANEL SIGNAL LIGHTS
6. GEAR SHIFT HANDLEVER
The gear shift hand lever (5, figure 3) is located on the left
side and the various positions are plainly marked. This lever must
be at neutral and the clutch engaged when starting the engine. FULLY
RELEASE THE CLUTCH BEFORE SHIFTING.
With Servi-car standing (engine stopped) proceed as follows
to get under way. Determine that transmission is in neutral and
clutch is fully engaged. Start the engine, fully release the clutch,
shift into first and slowly engage the clutch. After desired speed
is attained in first, fully disengage the clutch, shift into second
and again engage clutch. Shift in like manner for third and reverse
gears.
7. BRAKES
The brake foot pedal (14, figure 3) on the right hand side operates the rear wheel brakes while a convenient hand lever (1,
figure 3) operates the front wheel brake.
8. STARTER CRANK
The starter crank pedal (15, figure 3) is located on the right
side and has a spring return. To start the engine, kick the starter
crank down with vigorous strokes to turn the engine over.
10
There are two signal lights on the instrument panel (13, figure
3); one is marked GEN and the other is marked OIL. When the engine is running, both lights out indicates that the generator is
charging normally and that oil is circulating normally. Trouble
is indicated when one or both lights are on. Both lights will go on
when the ignition-light switch is turned on before starting the
engine. After the engine has started, both lights should go off except at slow idling speeds.
The generator light will normally flash on and off at slow idle
or at road speeds below 20 mph in high gear, because at these
speeds generator output is very low and unsteady. If the generator
signal light fails to go off at speeds above about 20 mph, the
generator is either not charging at all, or its output is below
normal and it should be inspected at once.
If the oil circulation signal light fails to go off at speeds above
idling, it is usually due to an empty oil tank or a diluted oil supply.
In freezing weather the oil feed pipe may clog with ice and sludge,
thus preventing circulation of the oil. A grounded oil signal switch
wire, faulty signal switch, or trouble with the oil pump will also
cause the light to stay on. If the oil signal light fails to go off, always check the oil supply first. Then, if oil supply is normal and
the light still does not go out, look inside the oil tank and see if
oil returns to the tank from the outlet of the oil return pipe when
the engine is running. If it. is returning to the tank there is some
circulation,
and you may drive slowly to the nearest HarleyDavidson dealer to have the oiling system checked and serviced,
as needed. If no oil returns to the tank, stop the engine at once
11
and do not drive further until the trouble is located and the necessary repairs are made.
12. TOWBAR
Model G Servi-Car has towbar mounted on front fork, used
for towing Servi-Car behind automobile. Towbar is shown in retracted position in figure 5.
Towbar clamp (1) is normally carried in Servi-Car body box
when not in use. Clamp is held in towbar clevis (2) by spring
loaded clevis pin (3) which is retracted by pulling pin handle (4)
to install clamp.
To extend towbar for attachment to automobile rear bumper,
push lock lever (5) inward (toward wheel) disengaging tapered
lock pin from mounting bracket. Towbar, pivoting on front axle
mounting, can now be swung forward.
Adjustable jaw-clamp (1) fastens to automobile bumper. Adaptors are available from your Harley-Davidson dealer to fit latest
model automobiles.
.' ,
13. STARTINGTHE ENGINE
When starting the engine determine that the Servi-Car is in
neutral and that the clutch is fully engaged. Turn the spark control
grip inward as far as it will go to fully advance the spark. If the
engine backfires excessively with fully advanced spark, retard the
spark (turn control outward) a sufficient amount to .elimlnate
backfiring.
14. STARTINGA COLD ENGINE
The carburetor choke lever (2, figure 2) is located to rear
of air cleaner just under tank on left side of Servi-Car. Move
the choke lever down to the fully closed (prime) posttton, open
throttle 1/4, and with ignition and light switches off, kick the
starter down once or twice to prime the cylinders. Then set the
choke lever at the 1/4 to 1/2 closed position in mild weather, or
3/4 or fully closed position in extremely cold weather, and, with
the throttle nearly closed, turn ignition switch on and start engine
with vigorous strokes of the starter.
12
1. Towbar Clamp
3. Clevis Pin
2. Towbar Clevis
4. Clevis Pin Handle
5. Towbar Lock Lever
~
,
Figure 5. Towbar
13
'~ll"--'~--~'
"_"'_,"
I CAUTION'
18. CARE OF A NEW ENGINE
It is
only in extremely cold weather that the engine may start best with choke in fully closed (prime)
position, and even then it will have to be moved from
this position immediately after engine starts. Under no
conditions will the engine continue to run with full choke.
As soon as the engine starts, open the throttle just far enough
to keep it running while warming up oruntil ready to set the ServiCar in motion. As the engine warms up and misfires, because of
the over-rich mixture, gradually move the choke lever upward.
After the engine has thoroughly warmed up, move choke lever to
the open position (all the way up).
DO NOT operate a new engine faster than 25 miles per hour
the first 250 miles; 35 miles per hour the second 250 miles. Below
2000 miles, avoid driving at or near top speed for long distances.
Recommended maximum top speed.Is 45 miles per hour.
• f
15. ,STARTINGA WARMENGINE
-II ~
To start an engine which is warm (neither hot nor cold), move
the choke lever down to 1/4 closed position, close the throttle and
kick the starter pedal down once or twice. Then, set the throttle
about 1/4 to 1/3 open, turn on ignition switch and kick the starter
pedal down quickly. Soonafter engine starts, move the choke lever up
to full open position. Remember that this starting procedure calls
for the throttle to be part way open during the starting strokes, after
the switch has been turned on.
An engine run long distances at high speed must be given closer
than ordinary attention to avoid overheating and possible consequent damage. Have the engine checked regularly and keep it well
tuned up. Valve seating and good compression is particularly
important, and the carburetor should be adjusted moderately rich
rather than lean. Inspect spark plugs often for good condition.
This applies particularly to a Servi-car equipped with windshield
and leg shields.
If engine has· been shut off for only a brief period and is at
about normal running temperature, it is not necessary to use the
choke lever. Simply close the throttle, turn on ignition switch and
kick the starter pedal down quickly. With some engines, depending on carburetor adjustment, hot starting is more dependable if
the starter pedal is given one stroke before turning on ignition switch.
When a hot engine does not start readily, that is, with two or
three starting kicks, it is usually because of an over-rich (flooded)
condition. The proper procedure then is to open the throttle wide
so that more air can enter and close it as soon as the engine starts.
stop the engine by turning off the ignition switch. If the engine
should be stalled or stopped in any-other way than with the switch,
turn off the switch at once to -Prevent battery discharge through
the circuit breaker points.
'
14
Develop the habit of frequently snapping the throttle shut for an
instant when running at high speed. Tbis draws additional lubrication to pistons and cylinders, and helps cooling.
In cold weather run engine slowly until it is thoroughly warmed
up, to avoid possible damage to pistons, rings and other parts before oil is warm enough to circulate freely.
16. STARTING A HOT ENGINE
17. STOPPING THE ENGINE
19~ OPERATING TIPS
Don't idle engine unnecessarily
.,
with Servi-car
standing.
A..fter a new engine has gone through its slow and moderate
speed running-in period, if it is then usually driven at high speeds,
colder than original equipment plugs may be needed. This will be
indicated by overheating, loss of power, excessive knocking, and
blistering of plug core tips. Disregard for these indications of
the need for colder plugs may result in damage from overheating •
When plugs need to be, replaced, get new plugs from your
Harley-Davidson dealer. He can supply you with the type of plug
best suited to your requirements. Experimenting with plugs of
unproven quality and suitability is inviting trouble.
15
20. LOCATINGOPERATING TROUBLES
If engine uses too much oil:
The following check list of possible operating troubles and
their probable causes will be helpful in keeping your Servi-car in
good operating condition.
If vibration is excessive:
1. Piston rings badly worn or in bad condition.
2. Heavy oil leak to the outside.
1. Cylinder bracket loose or broken.
2. Engine mounting bolts loose.
If engine starts hard or runs unevenly or misses:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have improper gap.
2. Circuit breaker points out of adjustment or in need of
cleaning.
3. Battery nearly discharged.
4. Loose wire connection at one of battery terminals or at
coil or circuit breaker.
5. Carburetor not adjusted correctly.
6. Condenser connections loose.
7. Water or dirt in fuel system and carburetor.
8. Gasoline tank cap vent plugged or oil tank cap used on gas
tank.
il!
I
ill! I
III
If a spark plug fouls repeatedly:
I'
If engine overheats:
16
does not charge or charging rate is below normal:
Brushes badly worn.
Brushes sticking in holders.
Commutator dirty or oily.
Loose or broken wire in generator- battery- regulator circuit.
Regulator not functioning properly.
Defective generator armature.
Broken field coil wire or loose terminal.
1. Float set too high.
2. Float valve and/or valve seat worn or damaged.
3. Dirt between float valve and its seat.
If transmission
shifts hard:
1. Clu,tch dragging.
2. Transmission oil too heavy (winter operation).
If clutch sltps.,
1. Clutch control improperly adjusted.
2. Insufficient clutch spring tension.
If clutch drags or does not release:
1. Clutch control improperly adjusted.
2. Clutch spring tension too tight.
3. Friction discs saturated with oil.
1. Too cold a plug for the kind of service.
2. Piston rings badly worn or in bad condition.
1. Insufficient oil supply, or oil not Circulating.
2. Carburetor high speed adjustment too lean.
3. Ignition timing too late.
If engine detonates:
1. Unsuitable fuel (Octane rating too lOW).
2. Heavy deposit of carbon onpiston and in combustion chamber.
3. Defective spark plug or of wrong heat range.
4. Ignition timing too early.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
If carburetor floods:
1. Gasoline tank empty, valve shut off, or gasoltne line clogged.
2. Discharged battery or loose or broken battery terminal
connection. Check by turning light switch "ON".
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Circuit breaker points badly out of adjustment.
5. Loose wire connection at one of battery terminals or at
coil or circuit breaker.
6. Clutch Slipping and starter not turning engine over.
7. Sticking valves, or tappets too tight.
8. Engine flooded as a result of over choking.
I
If
\:' r
If engine fails to start:
:1
I
If generator
If brakes do not hold normally:
1
1. Brake improperly adjusted.
2. Brake controls binding as result of improper lubrication,
or being damaged.
3. Brake linings impregnated with grease as result of overgreasing wheel hub and/or brake operating shaft.
4. Brake linings badly worn.
5. Hydraulic system contains air or master cylinder reservoir
low on hydraulic brake fluid.
6. Leak in hydraulic system.
17
...
~1ft!
4. Oil all control joints and parts indicated for 1000 mile
attention.
5. Check adjustment of chains and adjust if necessary.
6. Check lubrication of front and rear chains and readjust chain
oilers if necessary.
7. Check all nuts, bolts and screws and tighten any found loose.
8. Check level of solution in battery and add distilled water if
needed. See that terminals are clean and connections tight.
9. Check tappet adjustment and readjust if necessary.
10. Check circuit breaker points and readjust if necessary.
11. Check spark plug electrodes, clean and regap if necessary.
PARTIn
1. SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
A. NEW SERVI-CAR INITIAL SERVICE
.;1
I[
II
After a new Servi-car has been driven its first 750 miles and
again at approximately
1500 miles, it should be taken to the
dealer from whom it was purchased for certain initial service
operations with which the dealer is familiar. If it is impossible to
take the Servi-car to a dealer at the mileage intervals mentioned,
the owner should at least give the following outlined attention, or
arrange to have it given, and take the Servi-car to the dealer for
more complete servicing later on when convenient to do so.
CHECK AT FmST 750 MILES
1. Drain oil tank through drain plug (10, figure 1), flush with
kerosene, and refill with fresh oil.
2. Check oil level in transmission and add oil if necessary. Use
same grade oil used in engine.
3. Lubricate all points indicated for 1000 mile attention in the
SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE CHART.
4. Oil all control joints and parts indicated for 1000 mile attention.
5. Inspect and service air cleaner if needed.
6. Check adjustment of chains and readjust if necessary.
7. Check lubrication of front and rear chains and readjust
chain oilers if necessary.
8. Check level of solution in battery and add distilled water if
needed. See that terminals are clean and connections tight.
9. Check tightness of all cylinder head bolts and aU cylinder
base nuts and tighten where necessary.
II:
1\:
CHECK AT FmST 1500 MILES
1. Check condition of oil in tank to determine if oil change
is needed.
2. Check level of oil in transmission and add oil if needed. Use
same grade of oil used in engine.
3. Lubricate all points indicated for 1000 mile attention.
., ,...
"to
B. REGULAR SERVICE INTERVALS
Regular lubrication and maintenance will help you keep your new
Barley-Davidson Servi-car operating at peak performance, and will
give you lower operating costs, longer Servi-car life, and greater
riding pleasure. Your Harley-Davidson dealer knows best how
to service your Servi-car with factory approved methods and
equipment assuring you of thorough and competent workmanship
for every job.
The chart on the next page shows regular intervals at which
specified service operations should be performed. For more detailed description of the service and maintenance procedures
specified, refer to information following after chart.
3. ENGINE
A. Engine Lubrication
Use Barley-Davidson 105 (regular heavy) oil when predominating
temperature is above 75°F.
Use Harley-Davidson 75 (medium heavy) oil when predominating
temperature is 32 OFto 75 OF.
Use Barley-Davidson
ture is below 32 OF.
58 (light) oil when predominating tempera-
The oil tank capacity is 3-1/2 quarts when full.
Oil level gage rod is located in oil tank under oil filler cap.
When oil level is downto "refill" mark on gage rod, two quarts of oil
19
18
ServiciDg
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above "refill" mark on gage rod, add oil. Tighten the cap securely
to prevent leakage •
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Gas and oll tank caps are not interchangeable. Oil tank cap,
which is the shorter cap, is not vented. Using it on gas tank
will vacuum-lock tank •
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After a new engine has run its first 750 miles, and in normal
service under warm or hot weather conditions, at 2000 mile intervals thereafter, completely drain oil tank of used oil and refill with
fresh oil. If the engine is driven extremely hard, or used on dusty
roads, drain and refill at shorter intervals. Draining should be done
while oil is hot. It is not necessary to dram the crankcase as it does
not accumulate used oll. At the time of the first 750 mile 011 change,
and at least at every second oU change thereafter, thoroughly flush
and clean out tank with kerosene to remove any sediment and sludge
that may have accumulated. Your Harley-Davidson dealer has
facilities for quick flushing and cleaning of oil tank.
if
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Keep the oil level well up in tank. Oil runs cooler and 011
mileage is somewhat higher with oil level well up in the tank.
Furthermore, unless oil tank is kept well filled, frequent checking
of oil level will be necessary to avoid any chance of running dry.
,
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Oll mileage normally varies from 250 to 500 miles per quart
depending upon nature of service, fast or moderate driving, and how
well engine is kept tuned. If mileage is not within this range, see
your dealer about it.
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The oil signal light located on instrument panel indicates oU
circulation. See INSTRUMENT PANEL SIGNAL LIGHTS (Page 11)•
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B. Winter Caution
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Combustion in any engine produces water vapor. When starting
and warming up in cold weather, especially in freezing or colder
weather, much of the vapor that gets into the crankcase condenses
to water before the crankcase is hot enough to exhaust the vapor
through the outside breather. If engine is driven enough to get the
crankcase thoroughly warmed up frequently, most of this water is
21
I.
again vaporized and blown out through the breather. However, a
moderately driven engine, making only short runs now and then
and seldom getting thoroughly warmed up, is likely to accumulate
an increasing amount of water in the oil tank. This water will, in
freezing weather, become slush or ice, and if allowed to accumulate too long, may block the oil lines and cause damage to the
engine. Also, water mixed with oil for some time forms sludge
that is harmful to the engine and causes undue wear of various
working parts. Therefore, in winter the oil change interval should
be shorter than normal for all engines, and any engine used only
for short runs must have oil drained frequently along with a
thorough tank flush-out before new oil is put in tank. The farther
below freezing the temperature drops, the shorter the oil change
interval should be.
C. Air Cleaner
"'('
(.j'
METAL MESH TYPE FILTER ELEMENT: In normal service
on hard surfaced roads, remove air cleaner mesh, wash in gasoline, and saturate with engine oil at least every 1000 miles, or
oftener under dusty service conditions. In extremely dusty service,
clean and oil filter mesh every 100 miles or at least once a day.
DRY CORRUGATED TYPE FILTER ELEMENT: In normal
service on hard surfaced roads, remove air cleaner cartridge
every 1000 miles, and shake cartridge by tapping lightly to remove
loose dirt. If surfaces of element are oily or sooted, wash in gasoline. Since in time the element becomes plugged with dirt, the
cartridge should be replaced at least every 5000 miles. In extremely dusty service, both cleaning and cartridge replacement
should be done more often.
3
1
2
1. Front Chain Oiler Adjusting Screw
2. Rear Chain Oiler Adjusting Screw
3. Clutch Release Lever
D. Gasoline Strainer
The gasoline strainer is located on top of the gasoline supply
valve inside the gasoline tank (see figure 4). If the supply of gasoline is impeded, as indicated by irregular carburetion, drain tank,
remove the gasoline supply valve from the tank and thoroughly
clean the gasoline strainer.
Figure 6. Right Side of Engine
4. CHAIN OILERS
3. TRANSMISSION
";'
Use same grade of oil used in engine.
Remove transmission oil filIer plug (14, figure 1) and check
oil level every month or every 1000 miles, whichever comes first.
Add oil if necessary and fill to the level of the filler opening.
22
I
!!I~lill.
A. Front Chain
t.\'
At the regular service intervals remove inspection hole cover
(10, figure 2) from chain guard and make a very close inspection of
23
~~
chain. U chain does not appear to be getting sufficient lubrication,
or if there is evidence of an over-supply of oil, readjustment should
be made with front chain oiler adjusting screw (1, figure 6) located
at top of gearcase cover.
A well lubricated chain has an oily surface and is clean and
free of discoloration. U chain has a brownish hue and a rusty
appearance at the side and center plates, itis under-lubricated even
though the surface may be oily. Readjust the front chain oiler as
follows: Loosen lock nut and turn adjusting screw outward ·for more
oil; turn screw inward for less oil. Turn screw only a ftaction
of a turn at a time. Lock adjusting screw in place with lock nut.
point bottoms lightly but firmly against its seat. Then
back screw out the following amount which is the initial
factory setting:
'
Front chain oiler
1-1/8 turns open
Rear chain oiler
1/2 turn open
5. CHASSIS
~
B. Rear Chain
At regular service intervals, make a close inspection of rear
chain. U rear chain does not appear to be getting sufficient
lubrication, or if there is evidence of an over-supply of oil, readjustment should be made with rear chain oiler adjusting screw (2,
figure 6) located in scavenger pump cover. Readjust the rear chain
oiler following same procedure used on front chain oiler.
~,
I NOTE 1
Each chain oiler adjusting screw for front and rear chain
oiler fits into an orifice through which the oil bleeds to the
chain and controls the flow of oil by controlling the size
of the orifice. Since very little oil is needed to lubricate the
chain, the orifice is very small. Sediment and gummy matter,
accumulating in the oil supply, deposit in and around this
orifice and gradually decrease the oil supplied to the chain.
A chain that has been lubricated perfectly the first 2,000
miles may run short of oil the second 2,000 miles. For
this reason, even though inspection indicates the chain is
amply lubricated, it is advisable to flush away accumulated
sediment and restore the orifice to its original size at
intervals of approximately 2,000 miles. To do this loosen
the chain oiler adjusting screw, and back it out exactly two
full turns. Operate this way for a few miles and then reset
screw to its established setting. To reset adjusting screw
to its established setting, turn adjusting screw inward
exactly two full turns and lock in place with lock nut.
U established setting of adjusting screw should become
completely lost while making readjustment or flushing
orifice, back up lock nut and turn the screw inward until its
~"
24
Use Harley-Davidson "Grease All" for all greasing requirements.
All chassts bearings requiring frequent applications of grease
are provided with grease gun fittings. Locations and recommended
greasing intervals are listed in the SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
CHART (Page 20).
Be careful about over-greasing front wheel hub and brake
operating shaft. Excess grease working out of these bearings produces a messy condition and is likely to get onto brake linings and
greatly reduce efficiency of brakes.
Rear axle differential bearing grease fitting is located inside
differential housing. To grease, block up one end of axle and turn
wheel until fitting aligns with hole in left .side of housing.
Speedometer drive grease fitting is located on right side of
differential housing near the brake master cylinder.
Remove and grease handle bar grip spirals with fresh grease
and pack steering head bearings with fresh grease at intervals
indicated in the SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE CHART (see
Page 20).
6. OIL APPLICATIONS
All control connections and parts as indicated in the SERVICE
AND MAINTENANCE CHART (Page 20) should be oiled regularly,
particularly after washing Servi-car or driving in wet weather.
.7. GENERATOR BEARING- COMMUTATOREND
~(r~
Open oiler cap located on commutator end cover of generator
and apply two or three drops of light engine oil every 1000 miles.
Be careful not to over-lubricate, as excess oil may pass through
bearing and get onto commutator and brushes.
rf
Generator drive end bearing requires no attention
lubricated by the oil that circulates through the engine.
as it is
25
I
I
Ii
8. HYDRA-GLIDE FORK
9. HYDRAULIC BRAKES
The Hydra-Glide fork requires very little maintenance or
attention. It requires no greasing. If fork does not appear to be
working properly, or an appreciable amount of oil leakage should
develop, attention should be given, by an authorized HarleyDavidson dealer.
Every 2000 miles, check fluid level in master cylinder located
just ahead of right rear axle underneath Servi-car
box. When
removing filler plug (9, figure 16) be sure that all dirt is removed
from around filler plug to prevent entrance into reservoir. Level
should be 1/4 inch from top of cover. Use only HYDRAULIC BRAKE
FLUID, which is approved for use in hydraulic brake systems.
Incorrect recoil action will result if there is insufficient oil in
either side of the fork. To check the amount, completely drain the·
oil and then pour back into each side 6-1/2 to 7 ounces of HarteyDavidson Hydraulic Fork Oil. Oil drained from the fork may be used
again provided it does not appear to be contaminated by water or
other foreign matter. Add only enough fresh oil to provide the
required amount.
.10. BATTERY
~~
I
1[1
II
In an emergency, when Harley-Davidson Hydraulic Fork Oil is
not available, use the lightest automobile engine oil obtainable. Do
not use shock-absorber fluid. If engine oil is used, however, drain
and replace with Hydraulic Fork Oil as soon as possible. The
consistency of engine oil varies with temperature changes, and
stiff recoil action and a rough ride will result at lower temperatures.
Temperature changes have little effect on the recommended oil.
I~'
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26
Inspect the level of the solution of the battery at least once a
week during Servi-car operation, adding pure distilled water as often
as necessary to keep the solution above the plates. If Servi-car is
not used for an extended period of time, check solution level before
placing in service.
Remove the battery cover and take out 3 screw end filler plugs.
With a hydrometer or syringe, add water to each cell to raise level
of the solution about 5/16 inch above plates and separators.
If battery
is filled to a higher level, some of the solution
will be forced out through the vent holes when battery is
charging. This will not only weaken the solution, but also
may damage parts near the battery. Avoid getting battery
acid solution on clothing or other fabrics. Keep battery
clean and terminal connections tight.
B. Charging
Servicing the fork using only a funnei is, at best, a rather slow
job because the filler openings in the fork are small and the filler
channel tends to become air locked. It is recommended that you see
your Harley-Davidson dealer when this service is required, for
he has the necessary equipment to do this job cleanly and quickly.
..
A. Solution
NOTE
To drain and refill fork, remove fork trim rear panels exposing
fork filler plugs at top of each fork side. Remove fille~ plugs with a
large screwdriver. Then remove the drain plug at the lower end of
each slider with a 3/16 inch Allen wrench, and drain the oil into a
clean container. Add oil to container, if necessary, to make up the
required amount. Replace the drain plugs and pour 6-1/2 to 7
ounces of oil through the hole in the upper end of each fork tube.
Replace fork filler plugs and fork rear trim panels.
Every 5,000 miles or at least once each year drain the oil from
the fork and refill with a fresh supply of Uarley-Davidson Hydraulic
Fork Oil. If fork should at any time become submerged in water,
drain and refill immediately.
Il!lllilii
·'t
It is the care given a battery, rather than time and miles of
service, which is most important in determining its life.
~
¥
Check solution in each cell with a battery hydrometer. If hydrometer reading is below 1.200, remove battery and charge it from an
outside source. The charging current should be 6 volt direct current
and charging rate should not be allowed to go over 1-1/2 amperes. A
higher rate will heat and damage the battery. For this reason, do not
allow the Servi-car battery to be charged in the same line with auto
.batteries. Hydrometer reading of fully charged battery in good condition will be from 1.265 to 1.300.
•
27
PART IV
Allowing battery to remain in a discharged condition for any
length of time shortens its life. It is especially important that the
battery be kept well charged in below freezing weather. A low or
discharged battery is very likely to be frozen and ruined.
11. KEEP THE SERVI-CAR CLEAN
Keeping the Servi-car clean on the outside as well as on the
inside not only is a Signof good maintenance, it is good maintenance.
To aid you in keeping your Servi-car clean see your HarleyDavidson dealer for the following:
To obtain the longest possible life and the best possible performance from your Servi-Car it is necessary to keep it not only
adequately serviced, but also correctly adjusted to the tolerances
to which it was manufactured. The following are the adjustments
and general maintenance facts pertaining to your Servi-Car.
Harley-Davidson "Gunk" Cleaner
Harley-Davidson "Gunk" will quickly and efficiently remove
grease and oil from your Servi-car leaving a clean, bright finish.
Harley-Davidson "Chrome Cleaner"
Use Harley-Davidson "Chrome Cleaner" to make the chrome
parts of your Servi-car glitter and sparkle.
ENGINE
1. SPARK PLUGS
Keep plugs clean and the gap between the points adjusted to
between .025 and .030 inch. Do not take the plugs apart for cleaning.
Clean with a sand blast cleaner.
Be sure your Servi-Car is operating with the correct heat range
plug best suited to your type of riding. If in doubt see your HarleyDavidson dealer.
Harley-Davidson "Polish and Cleaner"
2. CARBURETORADJUSTMENTS(see figure 7)
Harley-Davidson "Polish and Cleaner" is made to clean and
polish the enamel parts to maintain or restore these parts as close
as possible to their original luster.
28
A carburetor, once properly adjusted, requires little if any readjustment. It should not be necessary to adjust the low speed
needle more than 1/8 turn and the high speed needle more than 1/4
turn, richer or leaner, to the correct mixture for a change in
weather conditions. Do not continually tamper with carburetor adjustments. If engine does not start and run right, first look for
trouble elsewhere, before checking the carburetor.
We suggest having carburetor adjustments made by your
Harley-Davidson dealer.
The fuel supply for low engine speed is completely regulated
by the low speed needle. The fuel supply for high engine speed is
regulated by a combination fixed jet and adjustable needle. The
fixed jet dominates the regulation of high speed fuel supply. The
high speed needle provides a means of supplementing, to a limited
degree, the fuel supplied by the fixed jet, when it is found that
slightly enriching the mixture improves engine performance.
Both the high speed needle (1) and low speed needle (2) turn inward (to right) to make mixture leaner at the respective speeds for
which they adjust. Backing then out (to left) makes mixture richer.
29
10
1. High Speed Needle
2. Low Speed Needle
3. Throttle Lever
4. Throttle Stop Screw
TIMING POSITION OF FLYWHEEL TIMING MARK (ON LEFT SIDE OF ENGINE)
Figure 7. Carburetor
13
A carburetor that is badly out of adjustment may be readjusted
as follows:
A. Make sure carburetor control wire is adjusted so throttle
lever (3) fully closes and opens with handle bar grip
movement.
B. Turn both the high speed needle (1) and the low speed
needle (2) all the way in (to right). Do not close off 'either
needle too tightly or damage to needle and seat may
result.
C. Back up (to left) low speed needle (2) about 1-1/2 turns.
With needle in this position, engine will start, but low speed
mixture will probably be too rich.
D. Start the engine and after it has reached operating temperature and the choke has been moved to the open position,
correct the adjustment of low speed needle.
30
14
12
"
~
MODEL G,GA
FRONT CYLINDER PISTON 9/32 IN.
BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Fiber Cam Follower
Breaker Cam
Condenser
Cam Timing Mark
Timer Adjusting Stud
Adjusting Stud Lock Nut
Timing Adjusting Stud Plate
Timing Mark
9. Contact Points
10. Cover Retainer
11. Adjustable Point Lock
Screw
12. Timing Mark on Flywheel
13. Timing Inspection Hole
14. Eccentric Adjusting Screw
15. Control Wire Lock Screw
Figure 8. Circuit Breaker and Flywheel Timing Mark
31
E._Turn low speed needle (2) in (to right) 1/8 turn at a time
, until mixture becomes so lean that engine misses and is
inclined to stop; then, back needle out (to left) 1/8 turn or
until engine hits regularly with spark advanced and throttle
closed and engine running at idle speed. Starting and all
around carburetion will be better with low speed adjustment
slightly rich, rather than as lean as it can be made.
F. Adjust throttle lever stop screw (4) as necessary, to make
'engine idle at proper speed with throttle fully closed.
Turn screw to right to make engine idle faster and to left
to make engine idle slower. Do not idle an engine at the
slowest possible speed because an extremely slow idling
adjustment causes hard starting. Changing the idle speed
with throttle stop screw is likely to change the low speed
mixture slightly. It will, therefore, be necessary to again
check and correct low speed needle adjustment by the
same procedure followed in making the initial adjustment.
G. Check high speed adjustment, after low speed adjustments
have been completed. Run Servi-Car on the road at various
speeds between 20 miles per hour and maximum speed.
Have spark fully advanced. Best all around engine performance can usually be found with the high speed needle
(1) set from 3/4 to 1-1/4 turns open.
't'
3. CIRCUIT BREAKER (see figure 8)
Circuit breaker points should be checked for gap and contact
surface condition initially at 1500 miles and every 2000 miles
thereafter. Check the gap between the contact points (9) with a
.022 inch gage (wire preferred). If it is not exactly .022 inch when
the cam follower (1) is on either of the highest points of cam (2),
adjustment is necessary. Incorrect point gap spacing affects ignition
timing. To adjust the points loosen the lock screw (11) and move
the eccentric adjusting screw (14) to provide a contact point gap
of .022 inch. Retighten the lock screw (11) and again check the
gap to make sure it remains correct. Points in pitted or worn
condition should be replaced.
4. IGNITIONTIMING (see figure 8)
Ignition timing is controlled by the circuit breaker. Correct
ignition timing and correct setting of the circuit breaker contact
point gap is absolutely necessary for proper engine, operation
and performance.
32
II
I
To check ignition timing, proceed as follows:
A. Remove spark plugs to permit engine to turn easily; remove
screw plug from timing inspection hole (13) in left side
of crankcase. Then remove front push rod cover so
that opening and closing of valve can be observed. Remove
circuit breaker cover and set circuit breaker point gap at
exactly .022 inch (see Par. 3, Page 33).
B. Tum engine in direction in which it runs until front piston
is on compression stroke (just after front intake valve
closes), and continue turning engine very slowly (less than
1/2 revolution) until timing mark (12) on flywheel is aligned
in the inspection hole (13), as shown in figure 8.
C. See that timing mark (8) on circuit breaker head aligns with
the end of timing adjusting stud plate (7).
D. Fully advance circuit breaker. Be. sure control wire is
correctly adjusted so that circuit breaker head is advanced
(rotated counterclockwise) to its full advanced stop when
handle bar grip is turned to full advanced posrtlon,
E. Timing mark (4) on top edge of circuit breaker cam (2)
should now align perfectly with breaker arm fiber cam
follower (1). If it does not, but is only slightly out of
alignment, loosen timing adjusting stud lock nut (6) and
shift circuit breaker head to' attain alignment. Timing mark
(8) will no longer line up exactly with edge of plate (7).
Be sure to securely retighten lock nut (6). Remember that
circuit breaker must be fully advanced when checking
alignment of mark (4) with fiber cam follower (1).
F. If timing mark (4) cannot be aligned with breaker arm fiber
cam follower (1), by shifting circuit breaker head, it is
probable that timing according to original factory marks has
been lost. This would occur if circuit breaker were loosened
and lifted far enough so its drive gears became unmeshed, or
33
The inlet valves are those nearest the carburetor.
if the case were opened up and gears removed and installed,
or if circuit breaker parts were replaced for any reason.
In this case unhook cover retainer (10) from retainer holes
in base, lift· circuit breaker head from base, then unbolt
circuit breaker from case and lift far enough to bring its
driving gears out of mesh. Turn circuit breaker cam approximately as much as cam mark (4)and fiber cam follower
(1) appeared to be out of alignment, and push circuit breaker
assembly back down into gear case, re-engaging its drive
gears. Tighten circuit breaker to case and recheck alignment of mark (4) and fiber cam follower (1). If with nut (6)
loosened, circuit breaker still cannot be shifted far enough
to attain alignment per paragraph E, repeat operation of
lifting the circuit breaker and changing engagement of
driving gears until alignment is obtained.
III
I
Adjust tappets so that there is .004 to .006 inch clearance
between inlet valve stems and tappets, and .008 to .010 inch
clearance between exhaust valve stems and tappets. An accurate
thickness gauge should be used to measure these clearances.
Before replacing valve spring covers, inspect the gasket between each cover and tappet bushing. If broken or damaged, fit a
new gasket to prevent an oil leak.
TRANSMISSION
1. GEAR SHIFT CONTROL
After each re-adjustment of the front chain, also whenever any
irregularity
is noticed with shifting and positive engagement in
different gear posttions, check the gear shift linkage and adjust as
necessary.
With timing mark (12) in the correct posttion in timing hole
(13), as shown in figure 8, the front cylinder piston is in the position (on compression stroke) where ignition should occur with
spark fully advanced (see dimension given for piston position on
figure 8).
To check and re-adjust, set gear shift hand lever (1, figure 12)
at neutral posttion, disconnect shifter rod at forward clevis (2),
The narrow lobe of circuit breaker cam, which is the lobe
that carries mark ,(4), times the front cylinder; the wide lobe times
the rear cylinder. Ignition occurs just as circuit breaker points
open.
At regular intervals of 5000 miles or at least once a year,
have your dealer check ignition timing and, if necessary, readjust
circuit breaker setting to compensate- for wear on circuit breaker
and timing gears that may have caused a slight change in timing.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
7. TAPPET ADJUSTMENT (See figure 11)
To get the maximum power and best all-around performance
from an engine, keep valve tappets properly adjusted. They must
be adjusted after grtndmg valves, and should be inspected and, if
necessary, re-adjusted a~dut every 2000 miles thereafter.
Tappet Adjusting Screw
Tappet Adjusting SCfew Locknut
Tappet Body
Valve Stem
Thickness Gage
I
I
III
Engine must be COLD. As each tappet is re-adjusted, first
make sure it is at its lowest posttion, by turning engine ahead
until the like tappet in the other cylinder is at its highest position
(valve fully open).
34
j
ill
F~gure 11. Adjusting Tappets
..
..
"
35
Gear shift controls must be kept in correct adjustment, otherwise shifter clutches inside transmission wi'll not fully engage
when a shift is made, and are likely to jump out of engagement
under driving load, causing possible damage.
III
III
2. CLUTCH CONTROL
The need for attention to clutch and controls will be indicated
by clutch slipping under load, or dragging in released position. In
either case, the first thing to be checked is adjustment of controls
proceeding as follows.
With foot pedal (3, figure 12) fully depressed (clutch released),
the clutch lever (3, figure' 6) must clear sprocket cover and
sprocket cover stud nut by 1/16 inch. Re-adjust as necessary by
shortening or lengthening cable (4, figure 12) at cable clevis (5,
figure 12).
Following this adjustment, release foot pedal and check end of
lever (3, figure 6) for free movement before clutch starts to disengage. Free movement should be about 1/8 inch. To re-adjust
free movement, loosen locknut (6, figure 12) at clutch and turn
adjusting screw (7, figure 12), in for less - out for more free
movement.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Gear Shift Hand Lever
Shifter Rod Clevis
Clutch Foot Pedal
Clutch Cable
Clutch Clevis
6. Clutch Adjusting Screw
Locknut
7. Clutch Adjusting Screw
8. Front Chain Inspection
Hole Cover
Figure 12. Left Side of Engine
and with slight back and forth movement carefully "feel" transmission lever into exact position where shifter spring plunger
(inside transmission) seats fully in retaining notch. Next see that
hand lever is at exact posttion, and re-adjust length of rod at
clevis to register pin holes of rod clevis and shift hand lever. It
is advisable to repeat this check in other gears to be sure of the
best all-around adjustment.
[-CAUTION
If end of lever has no free movement as explained above,
clutch will. not hold properly. If too much free movement
is allowed, clutch will drag when in disengaged posttion,
and consequently transmission will shift hard, clash, and
eventually become damaged.
3. CLUTCH
If, after readjusting
36
I
the clutch controls (see Par.2 above), the
37
clutch still slips, remove front chain guard and increase the
spring tension by tightening (turn right) the three nuts located on
pressure plate studs. Tighten all three nuts one-half turn at a
time until clutch holds. Test after each half turn by cranking the
engine. Usually a clutch that holds without noticeable slippage
when cranking the engine also holds on the road. Do not increase
spring tension any more than is actually required to make clutch
hold.
A new clutch is originally assembled and adjusted so that the
distance from the inner edge of the shoulder on the spring collar
to the outer surface of the outer disc is 1-1/32 inches. If compressed so that this distance is less than 7/8 inch, the clutch
probably cannot be fully released.
If it is necessary to tighten the spring tension beyond the limit
indicated above, it will be necessary to disassemble the clutch for
inspection of the clutch discs. Some of the discs may be worn and
require replacement or they may be oil soaked and in need of
washing and drying.
It is advisable,
if the above condition exists,
Servi-car to your Harley-Davidson dealer.
to take your
CHASSIS
cover (8, figure 12), and rear chain adjustment can be checked
through slot on right side of rear chain guard. Chains should not be
allowed to run loose enough to strike chain guards, because when
that loose, they cause jerking when running at low speed, and there
is excessive wear of chains and sprockets.
Adjust both front and rear chains so that they have about 1/2
inch free movement up and down midway between sprockets. Do not
adjust tighter because running chains too tight is even more harmful
than running them too loose. As chains stretch and wear in service,
they will run tighter at one point on the sprockets than at another;
always check adjustment at the tightest point.
A. Front Chain Adjustment
The front chain is adjusted by loosening the three nuts underneath transmission that clamp it to frame. starter crank brace
lower clamp bolt (7, figure 14) should also be loosened. Transmission can then be moved backward or forward by means of the
adjusting screw (8, figure 14) which protrudes through frame
fitting at rear of transmission. Turn adjusting screw to the right to
tighten chain - to the left to loosen chain. When correctly adjusted,
securely tighten transmission mounting nuts.
NOTE
Moving transmission to re-adjust front chain also affects
adjustment of gear shift control and clutch control. Check
and adjust these controls as necessary after transmission
has been moved and tightened.
Movement of transmission for front chain adjustment also
affects rear chain adjustment, therefore rear chain must also be
adjusted as outlined in next paragraph.
B. Rear Chain Adjustment (See figure 14)
1. CHAINS
Inspect the adjustment of drive chains every 2000 miles and
re-adjust them if necessary. Adjustment of front chain can be
checked through front chain guard inspection hole after removing
38
Loosen nuts on the four bolts in frame clamp at each end of
rear axle housing (3 and 4, figure 14). Nuts should not be removed,
but loosened enough to allow clamps to slide freely on frame tubes.
Also loosen lock nuts on axle adjusting screws (5)and (6) in frame
fittings just ahead of rear axle. Turn adjusting screws as necessary
to correctly re-adjust chain. In order to keep rear axle assembly in
39
''('a1
Figure 15. Repairing Drive Chain
1. Front Brake Shoe Adjusting Cam Nut
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Rear Brake Shoe Adjusting Cam Nut
Left Frame Clamp Bolt Nuts (4)
Right Frame Clamp Bolt Nuts (4)
Left Axle Adjusting Screw
Right Axle Adjusting Screw
Starter Brace Bolt
Transmission Adjusting Screw
Figure 14. Chassis-Rear
End
Remove individual links by pushing out link pins with chain repair
tool (obtained from dealer). Then install repair Iinks, noting that
spring clips are properly and securely locked on pin ends. Spring
clip when properly installed is on outside of chain (away from engine
or transmission), and open end of spring clip is toward rear (following chain travel).
Front chain is a double row or duplex chain; rear chain is a
single row chain. The chain tool is designed to accommodate
both types.
2. BRAKES
A. Rear Brake Adjustment
correct alignment, turn each screw an equal amount (to left to tighten
chain - to right to loosen chain). Alignment can be checked by noting
that at each end of axle housing there is about equal distance from
housing frame clamp to frame fitting that carries the adjusting
screw. When correctly adjusted, securely tighten clamp bolt nuts
and adjusting screw lock nuts. Recheck rear chain adjustment after
tightening nuts as sometimes tightening clamps affects adjustment to
some extent. Do not leave chain with an over-tight adjustment.
The Servi-car rear wheels are equipped with hydraulic brakes.
When the brakes are properly adjusted, the foot pedal will move
freely approximately 1-1/4. inches before the brakes start to take
effect. Adjustment of brake shoes into closer relation to the brake
drum is required periodically to compensate for brake shoe lining
wear, and adjustment of linkage between brake pedal and master
cylinder may also be required to compensate for wear at linkage
bearing points.
C. Chain Repair (See figure 15)
1. Brake Shoe ~djustment
To take off front chain for repair or replacement, remove engine
sprocket; to take off rear chain, locate and remove spring locked
connecting link.
40
(see Figure 14)
To adjust the brake shoes, raise rear wheels so they can be
turned freely by hand. Two adjusting cam square head nuts (1) and
41
master cylinder connecting link rod touches the master cylinder
piston in the master cylinder (10). Nowmove the lower end of lever
(13) toward rear 1/16 inch. This is done to assure clearance
between the connecting link rod and master cylinder piston. With
lever (13) in this position, adjust brake rod clevis (14) so pin hole
lines up exactly with hole in lever, permitting clevis pin to be
inserted without moving lever. H lower end of lever contacts frame
tube when brake is released, foregoing adjustment cannot be made
until connecting link rod is shortened as necessary at clevis (12), to
eliminate interference.
NOTE
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Master Cylinder Filler Plug
Master Cylinder
Connecting Link Rod Clevis Lock Nut
Connecting Link Rod Clevis
Master Cylinder Operating Lever
Brake Rod Clevis
Brake Rod Clevis Lock Nut
Brake Rod
Figure 16. Rear Brake IJnkage
(2), one for each brake shoe, are located on brake backing plate.
Using a square end wrench with long handle, turn brake front shoe
cam (1) toward rim of wheel, until lining contacts drum, causing a
noticeable drag when wheel is turned. With wrench handle extending
forward from front cam - turn handle down to tighten shoe. Rock
wheel back and forth to center the brake shoes. Next, back off cam
approximately 1/32 turn, until wheel turns freely. Repeat this
adjustment on rear shoe cam (2) of same wheel. With wrench handle
extending rearward from rear cam, turn handle down to tighten
shoe.
2. Brake Linkage Adjustment (see Figure 16)
Disconnect brake rod clevis (14)from master cylinder operating
lever (13). Grasp lower end of lever (13) and move it forward until
42
H the above adjustments fail to produce a satisfactory brake,
and fluid level in master cylinder is up to within 1/4 inch
of cover, the trouble must be looked for elsewhere. It is
recommended that brake maintainance be performed by your
Harley-Davidson dealer,
B. Front Brake Adjustment (see figure 17)
The Servi-car front brake is a mechanical brake with hand lever
control. When the front wheel brake is properly adjusted the hand
lever (1) will move freely about one-quarter of its full movement
before the brake starts to take effect. U adjusted tighter the brake
may drag. To adjust brake, loosen lock nut (3) on adjusting sleeve
(2) and turn lower nut (4) in toward. the cable support tube to
decrease the free movement of the lever (1)and tighten brake. Turn
lower nut (4) away from the cable support tube to increase the free
movement of lever and loosen brake. When ftee movement of the
hand lever (1) is about one-quarter its full movement tighten lock
nut (3) securely against the adjusting sleeve nut (4).
3. WHEELS AND TmES
'A. Removing Front Wheel for Tire Repair
Raise front end of Servi-car
and block up frame (see figure 18).
Remove the cotter pin (1), axle nut (2), flat washer (3), and
bushing (4) from each end of axle. Remove the five wheel mounting
socket screws (5), loosen the two right slider cap nuts (7) and
remove axle (6). The front wheel is now free to come out, leaving
the brake drum in its place over the brake shoes.
43
~3~2~
,-,
,-,
1. Front Wheel Brake Hand Lever 3. Adjusting Sleeve Lock Nut
2. Brake Adjusting Sleeve
4. Adjusting Sleeve Nut
Figure 17. Front Brake Adjustment
44
L
2.
3.
4.
Cotter Pin
Axle Nut
Flat Washer
Bushing
5. Wheel Mounting Socket Screws
6. Axle
7. Slider Cap Nuts
8. Slider Cap
Figure 18. Removing Front Wheel
45
When replacing the wheel, first securely tighten wheel mounting
socket screws (5) and axle nut (2), and then tighten the two right
slider cap nuts (6). This will insure correct alignment of fork sides.
B. Removing Rear Wheels for Tire Repair
Raise and block up Servi-car rear end. Remove hub cap from
wheel hub. Rear wheel is secured to brake drum studs with five nuts.
Remove nuts and pull wheel with tire from drum.
C. Wheel Bearings
Excessive side play or radial (up and down) play in the wheels
indicate worn bearings. It is advisable to have any needed wheel
bearing repairs made at your Harley-Davidson dealer where the
necessary tools and replacement parts are at hand.
After raising the saddle, remove saddle post clamp nut (5),
which is located underneath frame at bottom end of post tube. The
post assembly can then be pulled out. When the post assembly is
inserted back into the frame tube see that the frat side, machined on
the post rod nut (4), registers in flat side of the hole in the bottom of
the tube.
3
ELECTRICAL
1. HEADLAMP
The headlamp is of the sealed beam type. When replacement
is required use only the prescribed sealed unit available from
your Harley-Davidson dealer.
A. Replacing Headlamp Sealed Beam Unit (see figure 20)
If either
sealed
4. SADDLESPRING POST (see figure 19)
2
The cushion spring assembly (three lower springs) of a standard saddle post is adjusted to twelve inches long. This carries the
average weight rider with maximum riding comfort. Adjustment
can be. changed for lighter or heavier than average rider, and
different springs can be obtained, if desired, from your dealer.
4
filament burns out or if the lens breaks, the entire
beam unit must be discarded and a new unit installed.
To install a new unit loosen door screw (1) enough to remove
headlamp door (2). Remove the three retaining ring screws (3) and
retaining ring (4). The sealed beam unit (5) is now free from the
headlamp body, and the connector block (6) can now be removed
from the unit by pulling connector block from the unit's prongs.
Install the new unit by reversing above operations. Make sure
prongs on unit are clean to assure good contact with connector
block.
No attempt should be made to repair a defective sealed beam
unit. When the seal is broken the reflector tarnishes and poor
light and road visibility result.
B. Headlamp Adjustment (see figure 20)
~
1. Spring Tension Adjusting
Nut
2. Adjusting Nut Lock Nut
The headlamp beam must be adjusted for height and direction.
To get the greatest efficiency from the headlamp and to meet the
requirements of the law make the following adjustment in a darkened room or at night.
~
3. Rod Nut Lock Nut
4. Rod Nut
5. Post Clamp Nut
Figure 19. Saddle Spring Post
1. Have the Servi-car standing on a level surface with tires
correctly inflated about 25 feet away from, and headed toward, a
wall or screen upon which a horizontal line has been drawn at
exactly the same height as the headlamp center. The front wheel
must be in straight alignment.
47
46
To properly adjust the headlamp it will be necessary to have
someone of about the same weight 'as the rider seated on the Servicar because the weight of the rider will compress the fork slightly.
2. Turn on light switch, set handlebar toggle switch in BRIGHT
position, and check light beam for height and direction. The top of
the main beam of light should register on the wall or screen even
with, but no higher than, the horizontal line mentioned above.
3. If the beam requires adjustment, remove headlamp door.
The lamp can be tilted up or down so aim it in relation to the
horizontal line by turning vertical adjusting screw (7) in or out.
The lamp can be aimed to the right or left in relation to the front
wheel by turning the horizontal adjustment screw (8) in or out.
2. GENERATOR CHARGINGRATE AND REGULATOR
The generator itself has no adjustment for control of charging
rate. This is controlled by the regulator. The regulator functions
to increase charging rate when battery is low or lamps are
lighted, and to decrease charging rate when no lamps are lighted
and when battery is up. The regulator requires no regular interval
attention. The cutout relay is combined with the regulator in a
single unit. Should any electrical system trouble be experienced
that might be traceable to the regulator, Servi- car should be taken
to your Harley-Davidson dealer who has the necessary electrical
testing equipment to give required attention.
3. INSPECTING OR REPLACING GENERATOR BRUSHES
1.
2.
3.
4.
Door Screw
Headlamp Door
Retaining Ring Screws
Retaining Ring
5.
6.
7.
8.
Sealed Beam Unit
Connector Block
Vertical Adjustment Screw
Horizontal Adjustment Screw
Figure 20. Replacing Headlamp Sealed Unit
To inspect generator commutator and brushes, remove inspection cover band. Commutator should appear smooth and clean.
Replace worn brushes when longest side of brush measures 1/2
inch or less. Excessive brush wear will be indicated if brush lead
enters brush holder slot close to commutator. Generator should be
removed from engine and disassembled to replace brushes or recondition commutator.
48
49
Maintenance
4. BULB CHART
The following chart gives the location and bulb requirements
for Servi-Car lighting.
Lamp Description
Number of
Candle
HarleyBulbs
Power
Davidson
Required or Wattage Part Number
HEADLAMP
Hi Beam
Low Beam
1
TAIL AND STOP LAMP
-Tail Lamp
stop Lamp
1
..
INSTRUMENT PANEL
Generator Signal Light
Oil Pressure Signal Light
Speedometer Light
ACCESSORIES
Spot Lamp
Parking Lamps
Turn Indicator Lamps
Turn Indicator Pilot Lamps
67717-48A
50 Watts
40 Watts
68165-47
3 C.P.
21 C.P.
1
1
1
2 C.P.
2 C.P.
1.5 C.P.
68462-49
68462-49
71090-47
1
32 C.P.
3 C.P.
21 C.P.
1 C.P.
68715-49
68165-15
68572-50
71090-47
4
2
5. KEY FOR WIRING DIAGRAM (STANDARD) (see figure
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
J.
K
L.
50
21)
Conduit (four wires) - Red, green, black and yellow
Conduit (two wires) - Red and green
Conduit (four wires) - Red, green, black and yellow
Handlebar (loose wires) - Red with black tracer,
black
with red tracer, red with yellow tracer, black and green.
Conduit (two wires) - Red and green
Conduit (one wire) - Black
Conduit (two wires) - Red and green
Conduit (two wires) - Red and black
Conduit (two wires) - Red and green
Conduit (two wires) - Red and green
Conduit (two wires) - Red and green
1. Switch terminal - 3 red wires
2. Switch terminal - 2 green wires
3. Switch terminal - Not used with standard wiring
4. Switch terminal - Green wire
5. Switch terminal - Black and yellow wires
6. Junction terminal - 4 black and 1 red wire
7. Junction terminal - Yellow and green wires
8. Speedometer
light - Green wire
9. Terminal
- Green wire and red with black tracer
10. Terminal - Red wire
11. Terminal - Not used with standard wiring
12. Terminal
- Not used with standard wiring
13. Regulator - 2 red and 1 black wire
14. Tail and stop lamps - Red and green wires
15. Battery positive terminal - Red wire
16. Battery negative terminal - Black wire
17. Oil signal switch - Black wire
18. Handlebar
headlamp switch - Black with red tracer,
r'ed
with yellow tracer,
red with black tracer.
19. Horn switch - Black and green wires
20. Terminal
- Not used with standard wiring
21. Terminal - 2 black with red tracer
22. Terminal - Red with yellow tracer and red wire
23. Terminal - Not used with standard wiring
24. Terminal - Black wire with white tracer
and black wire
25. Terminal - Yellow wire
26. Ignition circuit breaker - Black wire
27. Stop lamp switch - 2 red wires
28. Generator
Signal light - Black and green wires
29. Terminal
- Not used on standard model
30. Terminal
- Not used on standard model
31. Terminal - Not used on standard model
32. Generator
"F" terminal - Black wire
33. Generator
"A" terminal - Red and green wires
34. Ignition light switch - See terminals
1, 2, 3, 4 and 5.
35. Ignition coil - 2 black wires
36. Terminal
plate - See terminals
9, 10, 21, 22, 24 and 25.
38. Terminal box - See terminals
39, 40, 41, and 42.
39. Terminal - 2 red wires
40. Terminal
- 2 green wires
41. Terminal - 2 black wires and red wire
42. Terminal - Black and yellow wires
43. Terminal
- Not used with standard wiring
45. Terminal plate top - Mounting screw (ground)
46. Junction terminal - Black and green wires
47. Terminal - 3 green wires
48. Terminal
- 3 red wires
50. Oil signal light - Black and green wires
51. Horn - Red and green wires
52. Headlamp - Black, white and yellOW wires
6. KEY FOR WIRING DIAGRAM (RADIO - SPECIAL)
Servi-Car
wiring
standard
wiring
connections.
for radio equipment
except
for
regulator
is
the same as
and generator
M. Cable (two wires) - Red and green
B. Conduit (one wire) - Green
N. Conduit (one wire) - Red
13.
32.
33.
49.
Regulator
Generator
Generator
Fuse
- 2 red wires
F" terminal
"A" terminal
II
and green wire
- Green wire
- Red and green wires
51
~-
Ii
",tit
./
,~~.~
RULES
....' \
OF
THE
ROAD
I,'
v -,
I~,~~
1; Keep on the righf side of the road when meeting other vehicles
coming in~th~ti6pposite, direction.
:i 'f
I
:J('
2. AJways shhnd your horn and pass on the left side when passing
'otner vehicles (except street car) going in the same direction.
Never try to pass another vehicle going in the same direction at
street intersections, on curves, or when going up or down a hill.
STA~
~~~,'.:>
3. At street intersections give the right-of-way to the vehicle on
your right. Do not presume too much when you have the right-ofway; the other fellow may not know you have it.
33~
32'
4. Always signal when preparing to stop, start, or turn. If possible,
signal by extending the arm.
RADIO-SPECIAL
5. All traffic signs, including those used for the control of traffic at
i~tersections, should be obeyed promptly and to the letter. "Slow
Down" signs near schools and caution signs at railroad crossings
should always be observed and your actions governed accordingly.
~. Never "crash" a light. When a change is indicated from "Go" to
"Stop" (or vice versa) in the traffic control systems at intersections, await the change.
·7. When intending to turn to the left, give signal at least 100 feet
before reaching the turning point. Move over to the center line
of the street (unless local rules require otherwise), slow down
passing the intersection of the street and, then turn carefully to
the left.
8.. In turning either right or left, watch for pedestrians as well as
vehicles.
,
I
,~;fl:
R
RED
G
Gj\lEEN
BLACK
liB
Iy
.yj)
YELLOW
WHITE__
KEY TO COLOR CODE
RED WITH BLACK TRACER
®ID
'1l):1fl
BLACK WITH RED TRACER
TRACER
. <B.XY) RED WITH YELLOW
@:'@)
BLACK WITH WHITE TRACER
_.
91 Do not leave the curb or parking area without signaling and seeing
, ,:k". \::~!"\i"
,. ,.,\"
"l'4~~~:'_';'
• ').i!;;,'"
I
I
'i\~J
"
"
~. that your way is clear to drive into moving traffic. A moving line
""• of traffic has the right-of-way.
IJ.j See that your license tags are installed in the position specified
f by law and that they are clearly visible under all conditions .
. ~Keep them clean.
"l>
~ii~,'.
Figure '21. Wiring Diagram (Standii.u-.,an,
52
,
11'! Ride at a safe speed - a speed consistent with the 't'SWe of highway you are on, and always note whether the road is dryor wet.
Each varying ,conditionl1i.on:,the highway means adjusting your
speed accordingly, .
.:.,
\
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·"i~~~"~':;;JI/!lr.:(',!
~l.
I
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'
,