- Wavelength Magazine

WaveLength
Your complete kayaking resource
Volume 19, Issue 2
MAGAZINE
Spring 2009
FREE at select outlets
or by subscription
Bay Trail
A golden age of
paddling unfolds in
San Francisco
National parks:
Rare ecology protected
in the Gulf Islands
PM 41687515
Safety and skills:
Articles to ante up your
kayaking survival arsenal
Plus:
• Seaward Quantum review
• Indian Arm
• The art of marking charts
Mekong River
Making up the rules
in Laos
2
Wavelength Magazine
SPRING 2009
Contents
This month's features:
Regular columns:
10
6
News
Golden Opportunities: The San Francisco Bay Trail
Marine Trails
8
by Andrea Pflaumer
13
Day Trips: Indian Arm
14
Adventure Travel: Mekong River
by Bob Putnam
by Marc Paillefer
24
Paddle Meals
by Hilary Masson
20
Handle With Care
Gulf Islands National Park
26
New Gear
32
Skillset
by Alex Matthews
34
Wildlife
by James Michael Dorsey
36
Safety
By Michael Pardy
by Adam Bolonsky
40
Fishing Angles
Should I Stay or Should I Go?
by Dan Armitage
From the Rainforest
46
2009 events
Expect no rules for kayaking in Laos
by Hans Tammemagi
28
Quantum's Physics
Review: the Seaward Quantum
by John Kimantas
30
Make Your Mark
Navigation: Marking charts
38
12
20
by Dan Lewis
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Hobie_HalfPage_AD_WaveLengthMag_8_26_08.indd 1
SPRING 2009
8/26/08 12:08:43 PM
Wavelength Magazine
3
The First Word
by John Kimantas
WaveLength Don't take it for granted
magazine
Spring 2009
Volume 19, Number 2
PM No. 41687515
Editor John Kimantas [email protected]
Copy Editing Darrell Bellaart
Advertising sales Frank Croft
[email protected]
Writing not otherwise credited is by WL staff.
Cover Photo:
Clayoquot Sound
John Kimantas
Safe paddling is an individual responsibility. We
recommend that inexperienced paddlers seek expert
instruction and advice about local conditions, have all the
required gear and know how to use it. The publishers of this
magazine and its contributors are not responsible for how
the information in these pages is used by others.
Wavelength is an independent magazine available free
at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops,
outdoor stores, fitness clubs, marinas, events, etc.), and
globally on the web. Also available by subscription.
Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome.
Download back issues and articles online at
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AD DEADLINE DISTRIBUTION
Summer 2009
April 15
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Fall 2009
July 1
Aug. 1
Winter 2009
Oct. 1
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Spring 2010
Feb. 1
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A product of:
Wild Coast Publishing
2101 Cinnabar Drive
Nanaimo, B.C., Canada, V9X 1B3
Ph: 1-866-984-6437 • Fax: 1-866-654-1937
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.wavelengthmagazine.com
I consider myself monumentally lucky to live here in central Vancouver Island. For
instance, after work I can have an invigorating paddle around Newcastle Island, a gem of a
provincial park just off picturesque Nanaimo Harbour. On the weekends I can take short
trips out to those little jewels called the Gulf Islands. Or for a weekend in three hours of
driving and three more of paddling I can be lost in the wilderness of
Clayoquot Sound, or somewhere equally enticing off the west coast.
In other words, I'm blessed with a wonderful array of largely
pristine places to explore.
The challenge is to keep it that way. I don't have to itemize the
list of ways we've denigrated the marine environment and coastal
waterways these last hundred years. But there should be alarm bells
that sound, when everyone screams in unison enough is enough
loudly enough that we take action. For instance, when killer whales
are so tainted with toxic chemicals they exceed the limits for the disposal of hazardous
waste at sea – that's the type of death-knell for our environment that people should hear. It
should knock us into action.
And yet, for all intents and purposes – crickets.
I live in a world where progress is equated with economic growth whose only barometer
is increased consumption. Maybe one day the wiser people of the world will realize that
endless building doesn't beget a better world, that amassing material possessions at the
expense of a healthy planet is a poor long-term strategy. But that day isn't here yet.
Worse, it seems impossible to reverse our thinking. Can you imagine a political party
in this day and age campaigning on a smaller, leaner economy? And yet what a wonderful
philosophy to embrace. But any downturn in consumer purchasing is viewed as a
catastrophe for everyone. Governments react to correct this by spending and building!
So it is with great discomfort that I saw the new British Columbia recipe for weaning
ourselves off fossil fuels. Enter Independent Power Projects – IPPs – and the frenzy to
convert BC's streams into micro-hydro projects.
If this is the solution to our reliance on fossil fuels, it is replacing one devil with another.
IPPs are a major economic encroachment into BC's coastal wilderness, turning much of the
south BC mainland coast into a patchwork of mini hydro projects and hydro lines. All once
again in the name of progress, to fuel our ever greater demand for consumption.
But why complain about a few hydro towers and wires if it means fewer internal
combustion engines? It's this: there is no line to be drawn. There is no wilderness that won't
be tamed and urbanized if it makes sense to enough people at the right time. We will eat up
our wilderness and spit it out if need dictates it in the name of economic "progress."
Whatever that is.
There's more on IPPs and the fate of Bute Inlet on pages 6-7.
- John Kimantas
© 2009. Copyright is retained on all material (text, photos and graphics) in this magazine.
No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form, print or electronic, for any purpose,
except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing.
Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with
the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2008, courtesy
of the Atlas of Canada. Also, our thanks to Geobase for some
elements that may appear on Wavelength maps.
Full moon kayaking
Cert no. SW-COC-002226
4
Wavelength Magazine
SPRING 2009
A Work of Art Made for Life
If Monet had been a paddler, we’d like to think he would have approved.
Designed by artist, assembled by sculptors, paddled by YOU.
Visit our website to see our 6 new models for 2009, inlcuding the Infinity and Isle.
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SPRING 2009
Wavelength Magazine
5
News
Bute Inlet targeted for hydro;
Two separate initiatives taking place in
Canada could have catastrophic effects for the
pristine nature of places like Bute Inlet.
The inlet, famed for its grizzly bear habitat
(see an article in our Summer 2008 issue), has
been targeted for a massive Independent Power
Project (IPP) as part of a BC Hydro plan to
recruit alternate energy sources using public
sector initiatives.
The IPP process has led to a gold mine-like
rush to stake energy claims along the British
Columbia coast, most targeting small rivers for
the creation of micro-hydro plants.
Leading the charge is a huge project slated
for Bute Inlet and adjacent Toba Inlet, just
north of Desolation Sound. The project calls for
dozens of dam structures on just about every
river and stream running into Toba and Bute
inlets, joined by transmission lines that would
link the dams to Powell River.
The main project being developed by
Plutonic Power Corporation, started in July
2007 with completion slated for 2010, will
6
Wavelength Magazine
consist of two run-of-river (meaning no dams)
facilities located at the headwaters of the Toba
Inlet on the East Toba River and Montrose
Creek.
SPRING 2009
Another component involves 17 facilities
at the headwaters of Bute Inlet. The estuary is
one of the main grizzly habitats in southern
B.C. The main powerline would run along the
News
rules to change status of rivers
waterfront of much of Bute Inlet, then cross
two mountain ranges as well as the middle
of Toba Inlet.
The two inlets were previously pristine:
free of any development.
It's a two-edged sword, as the project is
billed as green energy, an alternative to fossil
fuels and an economic boon for Powell
River, a mill town which has suffered a
downturn in the forestry industry.
Once built, the project could produce
enough energy to meet the electricity needs
of 300,000 homes, with Plutonic Power
claiming the ability to displace over 2 million
tonnes of greenhouse gases annually.
The creation of a transmission line through
a previously pristine area also opens the door
for neighboring power projects that could tap
into the infrastructure.
The surge of interest in IPPs across the
province coincides with new federal plans to
rewrite the Navigable Waters Protection Act
with an eye to streamlining the legislation to
A view of Toba Inlet near Desolation Sound.
Hydro transmission cables will cross near this
formerly pristine area while also crossing the
mountain ranges on either side.
fast-track infrastructure programs.
Critics of the current NWPA have called
it antiquated, giving minor streams the same
rights of protection as major waterways.
Early indications are revisions will limit the
number of waterways that would fall under
NWPA protection. Critics of the changes
say that many streams navigable by canoe,
kayak or other small boats will no longer
have any protection, meaning structures
such as bridges can be built without any
requirement to accommodate smaller
vessel traffic. It also tentatively eliminates
environmental assessments for development
projects, with apparently few exceptions,
raising the fear it will be a threat to salmon
streams, with run-of-river hydro projects
termed "ruin-of-river." At the very least, the
amendments will alter the long-standing
concept of navigation by water as a right.
For more information:
The Bute Inlet project: www.plutonic.ca
Friends of Bute Inlet: www.buteinlet.net
NWPA information:
www.ispeakforcanadianrivers.ca
www.saveourrivers.ca
Have your say, read comments and keep up
to date on the Wavelength Magazine forum,
www.wavelengthmagazine.com/forum
Ecomarine Ocean Kayak Centre
SA LES | RENTALS | TO U RS | L E SS ON S
Your ocean kayak specialist since 1980
GRANVILLE ISLAND | JERICHO BEACH | ENGLISH BAY
888-425-2925
Halfpg - Jan 15, 2009-2.indd 1
|
604-689-7575
SPRING 2009
ecomarine.com
1/13/2009 2:14:30 PM
Wavelength Magazine
7
News
Paddlefest puts focus
on green options
The hot topic at this year's Vancouver
Island Paddlefest is likely to be a shade of
green – in terms of the environment.
“It’s a part of paddling that can’t be
ignored,” Paddlefest organizer and owner
of Sealegs Kayaking Adventures Bud Bell
said. “It would be hard to convince people
to get in a boat and paddle through a sea of
garbage and pollution.
“We need to be responsible for our
environment and make sure we protect it.”
From developing environmental
policies for guides to follow to using more
eco-friendly materials in production of
equipment, retailers and manufacturers
alike are searching for ways to reduce an
already small impact on the earth.
May 9 and 10 at Transfer Beach in
Ladysmith, fans of floating will be able to
take a close look at the emerging products.
See the Paddlefest ad page 12; more events
are listed page 47.
8
Wavelength Magazine
Pair take closer look at coast
Two kayakers will be paddling the BC
coast this spring to raise awareness for a host of
potential threats.
Chris Rhodes and Mike Reid are planning
to kayak the 350 nautical miles in 35 days
in May from Alert Bay to Kitimat in an
expedition dubbed "A Closer Look."
The destinations go hand in hand with the
areas the pair want to examine more closely:
Alert Bay is near the contentious salmon farms
of the Broughton Archipelago, while Kitimat
is the proposed port for the Northern Gateway
Pipeline project.
The university students and guides are
hoping the trip will help raise awareness and
inspire action to protect the BC coast.
"As guides, and young wilderness-loving
British Columbians, Mike and I were
overwhelmed by the environmental
problems that our generation has inherited.
What do we do about all this depressing
information? Let it accumulate and
accumulate until we become numb and
reticent? Instead, Mike and I searched
SPRING 2009
January
2009
Mike Reid, left, and Chris Rhodes are ready to
paddle the BC coast.
for a positive outlet from the miasma of
environmental problems we face," Rhodes says.
" We wanted to know what was actually
going on along our coasts up there. And to do
that, well, we had to find out for ourselves."
As well as some challenging paddling
conditions, they are interested to see the
proposed tanker route for Enbridge’s Northern
Gateway Pipeline project – Douglas Channel,
near where the Queen of the North sank –
during a strong katabatic blow.
For more information, visit
www.aclexpeditions.org
News
by David Rive
Kayak museum unveiled at Ocean River
Remember the Eskie? That green
fiberglass kayak from the mid-70s that
transformed the Pacific coast as the first sea
kayak?
If you don't remember it, no worries –
Ocean River Sports in Victoria will bring you
up to speed on this and much more of the
region's rich kayaking history.
Ocean River owner Brian Henry is
transforming his store by displaying and
chronicling a range of kayaks that played a
role in the history of the coast's kayaking.
The result will be a kayak museum within
the store. And Henry is hoping others might
come forward with samples to display.
“Being a bit of a history nut, I’m intrigued
by the origins of kayaking and the variety of
innovative people who have contributed so
much towards the social fabric of my favorite
pastime," Henry says. "The Inuit boats in
particular hold a special place in my mind and
I continually find myself seeing how they gave
birth to so many exciting modern design ideas.
By displaying these special artifacts at Ocean
David Rive, left, and Brian Henry show the
Eskie, one of the memorable kayaks on
display now at Ocean River Sports.
River, we hope to engage and inspire the public
with a truly fascinating history.”
Already on display is a replica frame of a
Baidarka – a traditional Aleutian skin and
driftwood sea kayak – and the original 1981
Current Designs (then Ocean River) Pisces.
It's a natural, as Henry, the founder of
Current Designs, was its designer.
Other entries include David Ford’s
Canadian Olympic K1 racing kayak, an
antique Klepper kayak and an early 1970s
Vega surf shoe from England.
It's just a start.
Ocean River is calling upon paddling
enthusiasts to lend unique historical kayaks
to the museum project.
Gary Doran, manager of the store’s
Adventure Centre, sees huge potential in the
idea.
“I see it becoming a popular tourist
attraction here in Victoria as we are a
kayaking capital of sorts, and people who have a
strong love for the outdoors seem to come here
from all over the world. This will be something
that they can really appreciate and it would be
great for the next generation to see how we got
to where we are today.”
For any kayak museum enquiries contact
Henry at [email protected]
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January
SPRING 2009
Wavelength Magazine
9
Golden
Opportunities
Marine Trails
Y
ellow Bluff, a spot
below the north stanchion of the
majestic Golden Gate Bridge, is one
of Casey Walker’s favorite kayak
launching sites.
“The bay floor drops suddenly
and dramatically, causing the water
to roil,” says the San Francisco
business lawyer. “It only happens on
the strongest outgoing tide because there is an
eddy right to the side of that play spot. You get
into the eddy and circulate out to less rough
water where you can be easily rescued. It’s not a
place for beginners.”
Across the bay, building contractor Rik
Pickrell and his wife Sandra launch their
Folbot off the Richmond Marina to make the
20-minute paddle over to the beach at Brooks
Island, a native archaeological site and bird
sanctuary.
“We like the short trips because you can
stop and lollygag on the beach and have a
picnic. There’s a breakwater there so the water
doesn’t get choppy – you don’t have to worry
about strong winds,” Rik says.
10
Wavelength Magazine
by Andrea Pflaumer
sites and increasing the number of
overnight accommodations. But the
members quickly realized these were
projects too big for the club to tackle.
“BASK was all about having fun
and being on the water. We knew this
would take us directly into politics,”
Walker says. It did just that, but rather
Photo by Penny Wells
than meeting a mountain of obstacles
he found enthusiastic support among a variety
From whitewater ocean surfing to bucolic
of stakeholders.
bird-watching expeditions, you’d be hard“People loved the idea,” he says. “Water trails
pressed to find any other water trail in the
world with as diverse paddling opportunities as don’t need right-of-way, building or grading.
They involve the whole community and there’s
the newly designated San Francisco Bay Water
tourist potential.”
Trail. Ringing nearly 500 square miles of open
In 2005 state representative Loni Hancock
water, the trail offers an up-close history lesson
introduced legislation formally establishing
about the Bay Area and its ecology over the
past 200 years.
the San Francisco Bay Water Trail, signed
Formal designation of the water trail was
into law by Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger.
the result of lengthy efforts initiated by several
Members of BASK celebrated by paddling
individuals and environmental groups like Save across the bay from Berkeley to San Francisco.
the Bay and Bay Access, plus people like Walker But overseeing the establishment, maintenance
and members of the Bay Area Sea Kayakers. At
and improvement of launching and camping
BASK club meetings, discussions frequently
sites as well as encouraging private investment
and related tourism eventually required
turned to the subject of improving access to
SPRING 2009
San Francisco Bay Water Trail
Photo by Paul Kamen
Taking a break on Ashby Shoal. Middle left,
opposite page: enjoying the roil in Yellow Bluff.
Below: the Golden Gate Bridge at sunset.
financing. In spite of growing
sentiment against incurring more
state debt, California voters approved
a 2006 water bond naming the water
trail as a beneficiary. At that point
Walker willingly handed over the
reins to Ann Buell, the trail project
manager for the California Coastal
Photo by Jef Poskanzer
Conservancy. The final hurdle, an
training, education programs and ecological
environmental impact report, is due to be
stewardship of the bay. It also provided
completed this summer.
legitimacy to some existing casual sites and
There’s still a lot of work to be done.
eliminated those that were either found to be
“Almost all the sites need parking along
with a place to assemble equipment. They need on private property or in sensitive habitat areas.
loading and unloading areas, docks and ramps, But for local paddlers there will be no formal
ribbon cutting ceremony.
restrooms and fresh water for rinsing off boats.
“To us the trail has already existed,” says
Food and drink nearby would be a bonus.
Walker.
“We recommended 86 sites we’ve been
To the extent possible, access for people with
using
all
along. They’re open and established.”
limited mobility would be great.”
A
unique
twist to the trail is its non-linearity.
Although kayakers, canoeists and other
“Think
of
it more like a web with anchor
self-propelled boaters have been using many
points. You can go from any point to any other
of these launch sites for decades, formal
point depending on the tide, the wind and your
designation as a water trail offered a suite of
stamina,” says BASK member Penny Wells.
boons: publicity, maps and brochures, legal
Paddling the San Francisco Bay requires
protection for access and right-of-way, safety
SPRING 2009
not only stamina but paying close
attention to tidal charts, especially
if you’re heading out the Golden
Gate.
“The tides around the bridge are
most powerful – as is the wind,”
Wells says. “You have to go out with
the ebb and come back in with the
incoming tide. The tides on a new
or full moon can double the average paddling
speed.”
The San Francisco Bay drains about a third
of the runoff in the state, receiving water from
both the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers.
It can be especially high after a storm. A tide
log can show a six-knot ebb, but if it has been
raining for a while it will be higher.
“Conditions can go from mild to wild
within six hours, depending on what the tide is
doing,” Wells says.
In more protected areas, like the northern
inlets and the marshes of the South Bay, tides
present a different problem: the possibility of
getting stranded at low tide.
u
Wavelength Magazine
11
San Francisco Bay Water Trail
And because the bay hosts one of the largest
shipping ports on the West Coast, boaters have
to be vigilant of larger vessels and fast-moving
commuter ferries.
“You can call up vessel traffic control to find
out who’s going to be where, when,” says Keith
Miller, owner of California Kayak and Canoe
at Oakland’s Jack London Square. “They know
when these large vessels and container ships
are approaching and their every movement
when they’re in the bay.”
This is especially prudent when visibility
is poor: the chute that runs from the Golden
Gate Bridge to the East Bay hills can become
shrouded in fast-moving summer fog acting as
an air-conditioning system for the hotter and
drier communities to the east. But to a large
degree the trail is outside the shipping lanes.
“The choicest kayaking is just staying close to
shore – observing the interaction of water and
land,” Wells says.
The trail has been a great success story,
the result of a lot of committed paddlers,
environmentalists and people who just enjoy
the bay.
“The San Francisco Bay is just perfect for a
water trial,” Miller says. “It’s a rare combination
of natural and urban beauty. It was a no-brainer
and long overdue.”
<
Andrea Pflaumer writes about art, culture
and the environment from Berkeley
California. For more about the trail including
maps visit www.abag.ca.gov.
TRANSFER BEACH, LADYSMITH, BC
MAY 9 TH &10TH
Baffin Island
A unique paddling experience.
12
Wavelength Magazine
SPRING 2009
Where to paddle?
Try the 'crown jewel'
The ‘crown jewel’ for Bay Area kayakers
is the three-mile paddle from the north
shore of the bay at either Sausalito or
Tiburon across the Raccoon Straits – the
second deepest part of the Bay – to Angel
Island, which sits mid-bay.
“It’s a phenomenally spectacular
paddle, but it’s not for beginners,” says
Keith Miller. “At a minimum a person
should have taken a sea kayaking class and
a strokes and rescue class.”
Originally a Miwok Indian village, the
island served as a processing center for
Pacific Rim immigrants entering the US at
the turn of the last century – earning it the
nickname of Ellis Island of the West – and
as a military installation from the Civil
War to current times. Getting to the kayak
campsites on the west side of the island
requires scrambling up rocks during high
tide and then hiking about two miles up
to a 300-foot elevation. The reward is a
view that includes San Francisco, Alcatraz
Island, the Golden Gate Bridge and Mount
Tamalpais, the area's highest peak.
Angel Island is one of only two official
water trail campsites. The other is at
Horseshoe Bay on the north end of the
Golden Gate Bridge, with easy beach
access. (Note the stentorian fog horns can
rattle your bones on foggy evenings.)
Huge rock walls and icebergs
dominate the seascape
on this amazing
sea kayaking expedition.
Pacific Rim Paddling Co.
Box 1840, 621 Discovery St.
Victoria, BC Canada
V8W 2Y3
(250) 384-6103
info@PacificRimPaddling.com
www.PacificRimPaddling.com
The last fjord
L
ocation is one of the main
attributes of paddling at Indian
Arm. It’s about 30 minute away
from Vancouver, which makes day trips very
civilized. Even better is that when you paddle
away from the shores of Deep Cove into Indian
Arm you are entering a geographical setting
that very few large cities can boast as having in
their backyard. Indian Arm is a classic coastal
fjord, the southernmost fjord on the west
coast of North America. Narrow with steep
mountains jutting skyward and dotted with
small islands, it offers a variety of destinations
for the day tripper. In addition to the kayaking,
the village of Deep Cove is a great place to start
or end your trip with a tasty treat.
For beginners: Consider Belcarra
Park, a distance of about 5 to 6 km (3-4 miles)
round-trip. Paddle south from Deep Cove on
the western shore for approximately 1.5 km
(1 mile) until you reach Gray Rocks Island.
Circle the island and at a high you can paddle
between the rocks on the eastern side of the
island. Harlequin ducks can often be seen here.
Paddle east, crossing the Indian Arm Channel
to Boulder Island, a distance of about 1 km.
From there you can paddle directly east to
the green field of Belcarra Park. If you want to
extend the trip, head south to Maple Beach and
Admiralty Point, which is where Indian Arm
meets Burrard Inlet and leads to Port Moody.
From Belcarra you can paddle northwest,
crossing the small bay to Hamber Island.
The passage between Hamber Island and the
eastern shore dries at low tide. All these islands
are tiny, so paddling around takes no time at all.
From Hamber you can cut directly across or
paddle north until you see a rocky shoal. Then
turn west back to Deep Cove.
For intermediate paddlers: Twin
Island makes a great outing of about 10 km.
From the beach paddle north across Deep
Cove and along the west shore until you come
to Lone Rock Point, also known as Danger
Bay Island. This island was the lead-in shot for
the old CBC show Danger Bay. Paddle 1 km
across to Raccoon Island and then the second
1 km stretch to Twin Islands. Twin Island is
a good spot to stretch your legs and eat lunch.
As you return you can either paddle back to
Raccoon Island and then Jug Island or you can
paddle south along the eastern shore of Indian
Arm past Ferrer Cove into Bedwell Bay. The
western side of Bedwell Bay is a long peninsula
with tiny Jug Island at the northern end. From
there you can paddle directly west to cross
Indian Arm to Deep Cove, a distance of about
2 km.
For advanced paddlers: Thwaytes
Landing is about a 20-km trip. As above paddle
north from Deep Cove along the west shore of
Indian Arm, past Lone Rock Point, Brighton
Beach and Camp Jubilee. Thwaytes is located
just south of Best Point, the half-way point of
Indian Arm. Thwaytes is good place to take
lunch. Cross Indian Arm to the Power station
on the eastern shore and then paddle south
along shore past Twin Island, Raccoon Island,
Jug Island and the turn west to Deep Cove.
SPRING 2009
Indian Arm
Photos by Rob Newell
Day Trips: Indian Arm
by Bob Putnam
Mt. Seymour
Provincial Park
Thwaytes
Best Pt.
Camp Jubilee
Brighton Beach
Twin Is.
Racoon I. Belcarra
Regional
Jug I.
Park
Bedwell
Bay
Lone Rk. Pt.
Deep Cove
Gray Rks. I.
Boulder I.
Cates Park
Admiralty Pt.
Port Moody
Tips and hazards: Motorboat traffic
can be very busy, especially during weekends
in July and August. Stay close to shore when
paddling north or south. Paddle in a pod
when crossing, pay attention to the course of
motorboats and make your intention obvious.
Anabatic winds build in the early afternoon
and can make the return trip to Deep Cove
very arduous when paddling from the northern
reaches of Indian Arm.
Most of the shoreline is either privately
owned or too steep to land on. The landing
area at Thwaytes Landing is steep with large
boulders. Twin Island, Jug Island, and Belcarra
Park are the best spots to go ashore.
<
Bob Putnam is the owner of Deep Cove
Canoe & Kayak Centre. See
deepcovekayak.com for an interactive map
and a webcam to help you plan your trip.
Wavelength Magazine
13
Adventure Kayaking
by Marc Paillefer
Learning
on the
Mekong
There are no rules when
kayaking through Laos.
Marc Paillefer found he had to
make those up as he went along
Learning means
loving the country
– Loas proverb
14
Wavelength Magazine
SPRING 2009
Mekong River
S
itting on the banks of the Mekong in the small Lao town
of Savannakhet, I pondered my options. For years now I have
traveled around the Mekong, but how was I going to travel on
it? The river is the social and economic engine that drives this part of
the world. Yet except for a well-publicized section of river in northwest
Laos, transport on the Mekong is hard to find at best, and non-existent
the rest of the time.
Then along came the old man in the dugout, paddling effortlessly
along the current in the setting sun. Suddenly I remembered that green
thing I have in the garage, used on long journeys on great rivers before,
namely on the Nile and the Yangtze. But the Mekong is different. It
is still a wild river. China has thrown dams across it, but in its upper
reaches industry has yet to leave its mark.
A year later, when I boarded my flight for Vientiane, the capital of
Laos, my kit weighed 40 kilograms (88 pounds), boat and all. This
was going to be a solo trip. Several friends had expressed interest, but
actually committing to the three months away from work and family is
a different matter.
Thinking I might need a permit of some kind, the Mekong being
along much of the border between Thailand and Laos, I enquired
at the National Tourism Office. It was a sleepy, subdued place, as
everywhere in Vientiane seems to be. After several desks and several
kindly bureaucrats latter, I decided to let that sleeping dog lie. No one
seemed to understand what I was after, or if they did they didn’t seem
to care.
I chose to start the trip in Huay Xai, a town on the Laos edge of the
so-called “Golden Triangle” about 670 km upstream from Vientiane.
I was able to travel upstream on the river for about half of this distance
and so got a look at what I was up against.
The rest I had to travel overland for two dusty days. Dust as light
as flour, feet thick at times, was thrown constantly by the ever-present
logging trucks. I don’t know where the logs were coming from. From
my vantage point everything seemed to be already clearcut. Villages
had sprung up, perhaps of displaced indigenous people or migrants
from somewhere else expecting a better life. They must be a sight in
the wet season, but at least the dust would be kept at bay. Particularly
pitiful were a group of elephants I saw trudging along the road. These
were working animals. They had not seen a bath for some time, and
given this creature’s affinity for water they were giving the Mahouts a
lot of trouble. I couldn’t blame them.
No photos I have do justice to these days. Huay Xai is a busy
place, its markets full of Thai goods from across the river, and foreign
tourists entering Laos to travel the Mekong to Luang Prabang, a
recommended trip in guide books. A “tuk tuk” driver by the name
BounPone was at first curious and then encouraging in my venture,
and immensely helpful on that last day of buying fuel and provisions.
In the morning I sent one last email to let everyone know where I was
and when they would hear from me next. As if on cue, BounPone
appeared out of nowhere and we lashed my boat to the roof of his tuk
tuk. He drove me a little out of town to avoid the customs dock and
any unnecessary attention, taking me to a wide and lazy stretch of
river. The day was perfect, the sun having just burnt off the morning
mist. This trip had involved a lot of preparation, and I had become tired
of the details and constant explanations. When I shoved off, the weight
of the planning instantly fell away. There was nothing to do now but
paddle. u
SPRING 2009
Wavelength Magazine
15
Adventure Kayaking
The first couple of hours were sheer
bliss. The sun was warm, the river cool and
refreshing, and paddling downstream with
the current felt like the way it was meant to
be. My GPS was telling me that I was making
between 5 and 6 miles per hour without too
much effort, and the boat was behaving like
an old friend.
Then came the first fast water. My
particular background is in ocean kayaks,
and my only experience in whitewater
has been in rafts. In any case, I was less
concerned about the river than the traffic
I had witnessed on my trip up. Large boats
work this part of the Mekong and when
traveling downstream they are at full power
to give them as much helm as possible. They
don’t have the steerage or the room to avoid a
kayak. It was up to me to stay out of their way.
Rapids might not be the right word to
describe what I was approaching, but the
river broke into several channels, and picked
up speed. I could hear an engine over the
sound of the water and pulled into a back
eddy just up from the first shoot. Sure enough,
a large river boat appeared from around the
bend. Something told me that it wasn’t alone
so I waited and sure enough a second boat
appeared. As soon as they passed I paddled
hard for mid channel. Behind me came a blast
from a horn. There was a third boat. Now
committed to the current I had to stay on the
edge of the shoot... bad spot. The last thing
I saw before I was dumped was a tourist taking a photo from entirely
too close a vantage point. It was a quarter mile or so before the river let
me back on my kayak, and the only damage done was to my pride. I
discovered what was waterproof and what wasn’t, but luckily no gear was
lost. A lesson learned.
My first day had exhausted me, with my head still caught up in the
world of trip planning. I covered 25 miles and camped on some white
Scenes from
the Mekong River
and the author in
his kayak (below).
sand left behind by the Mekong’s floodwaters. The
night was surprisingly cool. As expected, in the
next few days my mind slowed down, I got better
at handling my boat and better at reading the river.
I paddled from 10 a.m., after the morning mist
burned off, until about 4 p.m. when the white sand
was cool enough to walk upon. Then I would camp
in yet another idyllic spot. It was hot, but the cool
water temperature kept things tolerable.
These were very good days. Passing several
villages everyday and lots of traffic meant I never
felt alone, but even with the sparse population
much of the jungle riverfront had fallen prey to
slash and burn agriculture. The people I would pass
along the riverbank fishing or bathing or doing
laundry were usually surprised, but always friendly.
I learned early not to camp near a village. That
attracted far too much attention. But regardless
of how isolated my camp might seem, someone
would always wander in to check out the white guy and all his odd gear.
The men always went straight to the boat, with the woman more curious
about the tent and stove. One young man happened into my camp one
morning while I was boiling up some noodles. I offered him some; he
quickly turned his nose up, and instead patted his own basket of sticky
rice. He was on his way up the hill for a day of slashing and burning. He
had about six pounds of sticky rice, thousands of calories, and I thought
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16
Wavelength Magazine
SPRING 2009
Mekong River
to myself what a poor exchange. All
those calories expended for the meager
return that hillside would produce.
Then it occurred to me that a kilogram
of opium could buy a lot of sticky rice.
Eight days and 200 miles brought
me to Luang Prabang. This former
capital of Laos has recently become
a very fashionable destination for
more then just intrepid backpackers.
Budget airlines fly the well-heeled in
from Bangkok for a couple of days of
relaxation and French cuisine on the
banks of the Mekong. The town is a
UNESCO World Heritage Site, an
architectural blend of two distinct
cultures: traditional Lao urban structures and
European colonial influence. I explored here
for four days, allowing my skin a break from
the sun. But there is a danger in lingering.
Days can turn to weeks when captivated by a
beautiful place.
The next 120 miles of Mekong was a section
of river I had been unable to get a look at before
from the water. I had read of a kayaker who had
paddled from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, so
it could be done. Plus large cargo riverboats in
Luang Prabang meant they must have come
from downstream at some point in time. A
local boatman I questioned pointed upstream,
then down, shrugged and said “same, same.”
So after my rest, I put in again. How difficult
could it be?
The first two days threw no surprises at
me, but the river traffic began to dwindle and
this created some concern. I felt very much
alone. On the third day my anxieties were
confirmed. A narrow shoot, maybe 75 feet
SPRING 2009
wide, preceded a sharp bend to the
right. I’m not sure it was the fastest
water I had yet seen but it was the
most intimidating. I got myself lined
up, committed mentally, and rode it
through. Just when I thought I was in
the clear, a boil turned to a whirlpool. I
was in the wrong spot and in an instant
the kayak rolled and I was in. The
whirlpool had me, but spat my boat out
into the current. My PFD was going to
keep me afloat but watching my boat
continue on downstream without me
was a horrible vision. I had nothing, not
even shoes. Everything was in that boat,
and it was now out of sight. Without
much choice, I committed to the current.
Maybe an hour went by of floating down the
river, and still no boat. What madness had
brought me to this place?
Eventually the boat came into site, spinning
lazily in a side pool. All ended well, but I cursed
myself for becoming complacent, and the
feeling of a vacation was gone.
The next few days were less pleasant. On
the right bank was the province of Sainyabuli.
u
Wavelength Magazine
17
Adventure Kayaking
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18
Wavelength Magazine
SPRING 2009
Seldom visited by tourists and heavily logged, it did little to raise my
spirits. The smoke from the dry season burn-off seemed heavier, and river
traffic dwindled to almost nothing. I didn’t have to worry about being run
over but it added an element of loneliness. I needed a drink.
While I was setting up my camp one evening I heard the sound of
drums coming from downstream. Thinking I had better investigate this,
I came upon a Kamu village in full celebration for some reason. This was
just what I needed. The drums stopped and jaws dropped as the white
guy walked out of the bush. It took a few minutes to establish that there
was not a single thread of common language, but that was not going to
slow down this event. A place was cleared for me, the drums flashed up
and out came the Lao Lao. This is the local hooch, a clear spirit of varying
quality. Probably not the safest of grog, but definitely one that delivers.
Proceedings went on well into the night, as we all got progressively less
intelligent. I’m not sure when the drums shut down, but I did wake up in
my tent, and I never did learn what the celebration was all about.
Refreshed and fortified, I arrived in Pak Lai. I was now back on
What to consider
when exploring Laos
For those considering such an adventure:
The first leg of my journey, from Hauy Xai to Luang Prabang, is a
very feasible trip for anybody reasonably fit, possessing a bit of gear
and a few outdoor skills. It’s an eight-day paddle, with a very posh
lodge conveniently situated at the halfway point. Here are a few
things to know.
You can enter Laos from Thailand at Hauy Xai, where you can
get a 30-day visa. Nights are cool, even by Canadian standards, and
mosquitoes are nonexistent. I wouldn’t do this kind of trip without
it, but as it turned out, I never broke out my water purification gear.
Everyday I was able to buy bottled water from river traders.
Be very careful of the mud on the riverbank. Buffalo can
disappear in it. Snakes also like riverbanks. Don’t get bitten.
I can’t say enough about the people of Laos. I never once felt
threatened and no gear went missing.
UV and dehydration are your main concerns. I did this trip at low
water (January and February). Under no circumstances should it be
done at high water.
familiar ground and on a stretch of river
with a daily service to Vientiane. This is
very significant for the solo paddler. On the
previous stretch with no such potential bailout,
always in the back of my mind was what to
do If I fell ill, broke an ankle, or got bitten by a
snake. However, that was behind me now, and
ahead lay a beautiful six-day run to Vientiane.
The river had become far less intimidating, and
there were more people about. Surprisingly, I
saw my first mosquito on the last night. This
is where the Mekong leaves the mountains
of northwest Laos and spills out onto the
broad, hot basin of western Thailand, where it
meanders lazily first east and then south for the
Cambodian border.
But Vientiane! I had been paddling for 21
days and the trip was now in its sixth week.
Somewhere I read that Huay Xai to Vientiane
was 678 kilometres (420 miles), but my GPS
was reading 942 km (584 miles). It was long
enough; I had started talking too much to
both my kayak and the Mekong. I packed my
gear, then my kayak across a long sandbar,
past the curious stares of backpackers sipping
beer under umbrellas, and dropped it at the
front door of a hotel I knew well. The manager
recognized me, despite my appearance.
“Where are you coming from?” he asked.
“Huay Xai.” His look said it all. That was
enough!
<
Reach Marc at [email protected].
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SPRING 2009
SINCE 1907
Wavelength Magazine
19
Great Parks
ADVENTURE
TOURISM
W W W. N I C . B C . C A
at North Island College
Coastal Adventure Tourism
Certificate
January start
20 Weeks | Campbell River
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
Handle
New national park reserve
protects fragile ecosystem
H
auled out on a small rocky
islet, dozens of seals watched me
Adventure Tourism Diploma
warily with sad liquid eyes, their
September or January starts
grey
plump
bodies poised to splash into the
2 Years | Campbell River
water at the slightest alarm. White gulls posed
atop the outcrops. Groups of oystercatchers
Call 1-800-715-0914 to
with their long orange beaks jostled near the
speak with a Student Advisor
waterline. My camera captured the elegant
today, or visit our website at
www.nic.bc.ca/tourism.
profile of a great blue heron silhouetted against
the horizon.
My kayak drifted silently with the tidal
Valhalla_fall08.ai
8/27/2008
5:00:20 PM
current along the Java Islets on the southwest
side of Saturna Island. Balancing a pair of
binoculars in one hand and a camera in the
other, I reveled in the teeming marine life. But I
had to take care to stay at least 100 metres from
the shore, for these islets are designated as a
Special Preservation Area.
Under a deep blue sky, I’m enjoying my
favorite pastime, paddling amongst the
southern Gulf Islands off the west coast of
British Columbia, one of the most beautiful
and accessible archipelagos in the world. This
area basks in Canada’s only Mediterranean
climate. With the weather warm and dry in
the summer and mild and moist in winter, a
unique ecosystem has evolved with plants and
animals that occur nowhere else in Canada.
But surrounded by three major cities
(Vancouver, Victoria and Seattle), the fragile
ecosystem is threatened by development
and tourism. To protect this area, the Gulf
Islands National Park Reserve was created
in 2003 consisting of 15 islands and over 65
Happily, it continues to grow as the park
Nanaimo’s only Delta Kayak dealer islets.
continues to acquire more property.
6550 Metral Drive,
Ron Hamilton, the recently retired park
superintendent, has been involved with the
Nanaimo, BC
park since it was formed. He knows better than
(250) 390-6883 www.vpo.ca
anyone why the park is special.
Your paddling
adventure
starts here!
20
Wavelength Magazine
by Hans Tammemagi
SPRING 2009
The fragile fawn lily is one of the many
spring blooms found only in
the Gulf Islands in Canada.
“For such a small area the diversity is
incredible,” he says. “It has sandy and rocky
beaches, arbutus and Garry oak trees and each
island is distinctive.”
The unusual plants found here include
many endangered and threatened species,
including Taylor’s checkerspot butterfly, the
sharp-tailed snake, shellfish, ferns and killer
whales.
“It is one of the most ecologically at-risk
areas in Canada,” Hamilton says.
The Gulf Islands are folded into steep,
forest-covered hills and valleys with rocky
shorelines, steep headlands and offshore
rocks and islets. Perched on exposed fractured
bedrock in dry shallow soils, plants develop
slowly on these crags.
u
with care
Gulf Islands National Park
SPRING 2009
Wavelength Magazine
21
Great Parks
James
Bay
Bennett Bay
Hawkins I.
Georgeson I.
Belle Chain Its.
Prevost I.
Bright I.
Red Its.
Winter Cove
Cabbage I.
Tumbo I.
Channel Is.
Roesland
Rucke Park
(Provincial)
Saltspring I.
Loretta’s Woods
Boiling Reef
Narvaez Bay
Prior Centennial
Java Its.
Taylor Point Day-Use Area
Blunden It.
Beaumont/Mount Maxwell
Greenburn L.
Russell I.
Isabella I.
Brackman I.
Saturna Island
Portland I.
Gulf Islands
National
Park Reserve
Dock I.
McDonald Campground
Rum I.
Sidney Spit
Sallas Rocks
Vancouver I.
D‘Arcy I.
Unit Rocks
From The Wild Coast, Vol. 3
Basics of the Gulf Islands
National Park Reserve
Basic camping areas: Beaumont, Pender Island; Cabbage
Island; Narvaez Bay, Saturna Island; D’Arcy Island; Portland Island;
James Bay, Prevost Island; Rum Island.
Moorage, mooring buoys &/or dinghy dock: Sidney
Spit; Beaumont, Pender Island; Cabbage Island; Arbutus Point and
Princess Bay, Portland Island.
Protect the Park: No campfires are permitted. Do not
disturb or feed wildlife. Camp only in designated spots. Keep 100
metres from islets. Leave no trace of your visit.
Information: Get brochures, maps and information from
Parks Canada at offices in Sidney, Pender Island, Saturna Island or
call 250 654-4000 or 866 944-1744.
Online: Visit www.pc.gc.ca/gulf
22
Wavelength Magazine
SPRING 2009
If trampled, these ecosystems may not be able to recover for many
years, if at all.
Todd Golumbia, the park ecologist, describes his favorite habitat.
“I love the temperate rain forests, which are deep and mysterious,” he
says.
Towering, ram-rod-straight Douglas firs are the most common
tree, but red-barked, gangling arbutus, the western red cedar, western
hemlock and Garry oak are also common. Ferns, mushrooms, banana
slugs and salal bushes populate the understorey. Many plants such as the
Garry oak and arbutus trees are in the northern extreme of their habitat,
making this one of the few places in Canada where they are found.
On the drier rocky ridges, there are open wildflower meadows and
grassy hilltops. In spring, moist places burst into color with wildflowers
including camas, stonecrop, white fawn lilies and chocolate lilies.
Sometimes I am rewarded by a clutch of calypso (fairy slipper) orchids,
which John Muir, the celebrated naturalist called “the rarest and most
beautiful of the flowering plants.” Delicate and deliciously perfumed,
they are one of six orchids found in the Gulf Islands. But with loss of
habitat, they are rapidly being lost (I hold their locations a close secret).
Land animals include numerous deer, raccoons and even feral goats
(on Saturna and Prevost islands). There are very few predators although
black bears, cougars and wolves are (very) occasionally seen. Birds
include bald eagles, which are icons of this area, great blue heron, falcons,
turkey vultures, migratory and resident seabirds, shorebirds such as gulls,
cormorants, black oystercatchers and pigeon guillemots.
Life under the water is just as diverse as that above. Fresh water
from the Fraser River mixes with ocean waters that flood through Juan
de Fuca and Haro straits to create a nutrient rich, highly productive
marine environment. The rocky reefs, lush beds of bull kelp, protected
bays, eelgrass meadows, estuaries and fast tidal flows between the
many islands create homes for sea stars, crabs, anemones, sea urchins,
barnacles, oysters and the Pacific octopus, the world’s largest. Other
marine life includes seals, sea lions, river otters, harbour porpoise, Dall’s
porpoise as well as summer visitors like minke, gray and humpback
whales.
My favorite underwater creature is the killer whale. I dream of
kayaking amongst a pod of orcas, their large smooth bodies rising and
falling in the water, their tall dorsal fins towering over my kayak. But the
killer whale population is dropping and they are on the endangered list.
The cause of their plight is the same as that facing the Gulf Islands Park:
too many humans. Salmon, their main food —and also the eagles’ —
Gulf Islands National Park
The distinctive and slightly neurotic black oystercatcher is one of the at-risk species
found in the Gulf Islands.
has decreased significantly, the orcas are being
harassed by whale watching boats, and the
waters are polluted with toxic chemicals.
Golumbia explains the problems he faces.
“Our job is a contradiction. We must
promote recreation but we must also protect
the park.”
He points out that the park is “porous” to
the public – that is, it has no gate or entrance so
there is no control over who comes and goes.
And many visitors, unfortunately, have no idea
what lands are part of the park and how very
sensitive they are.
“Education is key,” he says. “We must make
people aware of the uniqueness and fragility of
this area.”
Golumbia also stresses that boaters and
kayakers visiting the park should get maps and
information from Parks Canada.
“It’s important to stay out of the Special
Preservation Areas (the islets) and to leave no
trace of your visit,” he says. “If in doubt, call us.”
Soon after, I paddle from Pender Island
to Rum Island, one of the prettiest in the
Park, with one stroke following another in
a soothing hypnotic rhythm. A seal head
pops out of the water and its large eyes watch
my progress. As I pass Moresby Island “No
Trespassing” signs glare down from the shore.
I am happy that the National Park Reserve is
protecting a little corner of this paradise.
<
Hans is a freelance writer and avid kayaker
living on Pender Island. He has written seven
books and is the environment columnist for
the Vancouver Sun.
SPRING 2009
Wavelength Magazine
23
Paddle Meals
by Hilary Masson
Rescued by a seaside restaurant
I discovered this recipe while kayaking
in the Sea of Cortez. It was the seventh day
of the trip and we had just finished the last
crossing. There was still another hour and a
half of paddling before reaching Loreto and
the prospect of a cold margarita. Then, out of
the desert like an oasis, we came upon a seaside
restaurant called El Picazon. It was an easy sell
to finish the trip early, pull onto the beach and
order food and a cold drink. On the restaurant
menu was this recipe for coconut prawns.
On my next trip I adapted this recipe for
easy camp cooking. Now we can enjoy this on
any beach, on any trip, and reminisce about
that fun seaside oasis.
Calling it a day early earns
a new favorite recipe for prawns
Ingredients:
• 24 medium-large uncooked prawns
• 1 large egg, beaten
• 3/4 cup of flour
• 3/4 cup of shredded coconut
• 1/2 tsp of seasoning (garlic powder,
cayenne pepper, black pepper and paprika)
Traditional Method:
1. Remove the black intestinal vein of the
prawn by cutting the prawn open following
Chipotle cream
dipping sauce:
Try this easy dipping sauce with the
coconut prawns and you’re sure to use it
again for all sorts of other dipping; such
as mixed veggies, tacos and wraps, fresh
barbecued fish. The options are unlimited.
• 2 chipotle chilies from a can in adobo
sauce (minced and seeded). These are
found in the Mexican food isle of your
grocery store.
• 1 cup non-fat sour cream
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
Mix the ingredients in a bowl, making
sure the Chipotle chilies are minced as fine
as possible, so that when blended with the
sour cream it makes an even consistency.
Enjoy!
24
Wavelength Magazine
the curve of the back with a thin sharp knife.
Fold the prawn open and rinse. The vein should
wash away; then pat dry with a paper towel.
2. Add the flour into a bowl with the
seasoning mixture.
3. In a mixing bowl, whisk the egg.
4. Pour the shredded coconut into a shallow
dish.
5. Take each prawn and dip first into the
flour, then into the egg, and roll in the coconut
to coat. Set prawns aside on a dish or plate so
that the coating has time to set.
6. Heat 2 cm of vegetable oil in a large frying
pan or skillet until it is fairly hot. Fry all prawns
in the oil for approximately two minutes until
the batter has turned a golden brown and the
prawns are cooked. Turn prawns once during
cooking.
7. Once the prawns are cooked remove
them from the pan and drain them on paper
towels to get rid of excess oil.
8. Serve hot with your choice of dip.
SPRING 2009
My Method:
Try using a Dutch oven or Outback Oven
instead of frying the prawns in oil. This is
a much healthier choice, and my preferred
method.
1. Preheat the Outback Oven while
preparing the prawns.
2. Take each prawn and dip them first into
the flour and then into the egg then roll them
in the coconut to coat them. Set them aside in
a dish or on a plate so that the coating has time
to set.
3. Place a sheet of wax paper on the bottom
of the baking tray of the Dutch Oven. Arrange
the coated prawns on the baking tray and
place in the preheated oven for about 12 to 15
minutes or until the prawns are golden brown.
4. Serve hot with your choice of dip.
<
Hilary Masson is a guide and part owner of
Baja Kayak Adventure Tours Ltd.
Visit www.bajakayakadventures.com.
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SPRING 2009
Wavelength Magazine
25
New Gear
Current Designs Isle
Werner expands its line
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the high-angle and highvalue Tybee. It comes with
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26
Wavelength Magazine
Solo Rescue Assist
Photos by Leanne Chetcuti
Werner
There shouldn’t be much mystery which island Current Designs had in mind when they
named this new super-sized Greenlander – one of nine new boats by the CD crew for 2009.
The Isle is made for the larger paddler with performance in mind and the benefits of a hard
shallow-V chine. It is available in both fiberglass and Kevlar. www.cdkayak.com
Wavelength editor John Kimantas gives
the Solo Rescue Assist a workout.
In the build a better mousetrap category,
U.S. Navy engineer Phil Dang has added some
refinements to his Solo Rescue Assist worth
noting. If you're not familiar with Solo Rescue
Assist, it reverses the concept of the traditional
paddle float by using a counterbalance and the
weight of water.
Essentially, a collapsing metal pole is capped
by a vinyl bucket. Set up much like a paddle
float in reverse, the bucket fills with water, and
the counterbalance force created is enough that
you can pull yourself up the outside of the boat
and re-enter from the water. Coupled with an
optional ladder system, it can help injured or
potentially disabled paddlers to get back into
the cockpit. And even for those mobile, the
system is a leg up. Step up, keep your weight
on the outside of the kayak, step in, sit down.
The only trick is to keep your weight on the
opposite end of the counterbalance. This is the
reverse principle to the paddle float, where you
enter from the same side as the float.
Dang's most recent touch to the contraption
is a modified end cap that allows attachment of
the counter-balance to any kayak with an eye
pad located in the appropriate location forward
of the cockpit. The counterbalance also has
SPRING 2009
great applications for stability for fishing,
resting and photography – anywhere you
require balance. The force the bucket creates
is virtually untippable. One on each side: a
phenomenally stable outrigger system.
www.solo-rescue-assist.com
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efficient hulls with consistent rocker and a multi-chine cross-section for better performance. The
moderate depth of the hulls minimizes wind effects and gets the gunwales out of the way of your
hands for comfortable paddling. A 15-foot solo and 16-foot solo/double may seem short for this
class of kayak, but with their steep stems, they have waterline lengths of kayaks that are at least a
foot longer. Pakboats has years of experience with removable decks – enough to know the system
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Undies for your paddles? Yes!
North Water's new PaddleBritches
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SPRING 2009
Wavelength Magazine
27
Review
by John Kimantas
Seaward has given
new life to the old
Brit-boat design
W
inter in British Columbia is
full of surprises, especially when
clear skies and low winds can
make the paddling as good as you could expect
on any summer's day.
Such was our luck in January when a group
from the Nanaimo Paddlers kayaking club set
out from the Cedar boat ramp to hit the rapids
of Gabriola Passage to try out the Seaward
Quantum.
The Quantum is definitely not a middle-ofthe-road, please-everyone type of boat. It is a
Greenlander first and foremost, complete with
a skeg, a hard double-chine and built with a
sense of purpose that aficionados of this genre
will appreciate, but with enough
North American touches to ensure
it meets the best of both worlds.
Dare we say it's a hybrid?
Consider the low rear deck and
Greenland-style bow, making this
a traditional performer, but add
the Quantum is a hand-crafted boat built with
ways exceeded them.
for instance flush hatches, a departure from
care. No offshore assembly line built this boat.
The basics: The Quantum may be a
the Brit preference for round plastic hatch
The Quantum is comfortable, but novices
leap for those used to the traditional North
covers. So what you have is a pick-and-choose
will no doubt find the first encounter twitchy.
American style, but a few minutes of testing
of features that offers a departure from the
Beginners looking for the initial stability of an
and the twitchiness is likely to disappear in
plethora of Brit boats staking claim to the
ocean liner won't find it here.
favor of a more moderate initial stability and
North American market.
That's not likely to deter the serious paddler
a good secondary stability, aided by the
The mix creates a kayak that can look and
drawn to this style of boat. And for our small
multi-chine.
feel as good upside-down as right side up.
but respectable Nanaimo Paddlers test crew,
Comfort is good but the cockpit is
For me this was a return to Seaward after
the boat lived up to expectations, and in many
surprisingly short. At 5'11" I had very little room
spending a summer in 2006 in the
Seaward Quantum specs
Ascente, and I was interested to see how
Total storage Weight
the company had progressed. Seaward Length Beam Depth Cockpit
17.3'
21.5"
13"
31"L
x
16"W
x
12.25"D
224 litres
54 pounds
is renowned for its finish, and it is clear
Quantum's physics
28
Wavelength Magazine
SPRING 2009
Seaward Quantum
rescue system, to name but a few features.
The rating
Touring: With a capacity of 224 litres,
the Quantum provides a middle-of-the-pack
storage capacity – enough for comfortable
weekends but shy of a good expedition
capacity. The Quantum's shape means good
tracking for long stretches on the water. This
is the type of kayak you can spend days in
without regret.
Playing: This
is undoubtedly
what Seaward
had in mind
in designing
the Quantum,
particularly the low
Win this kayak!
Seaward Kayaks has graciously offered
to place the Quantum in the array of
kayaks being offered in Wavelength's
2009 kayak draw. See page 35 for
more information on how to win.
in front of my feet; don't expect much in the
way of foot-area storage.
Seaward has traded its old foam cushion
seat pad for a molded, padded seat – a great
improvement for comfort.
From there you get Seaward's attention
to detail: recessed fittings, well-placed deck
compass, knee brace pads and a quick-release
back deck (ideal for rolling), Greenland style
bow and skeg. Our testers thought it rolled
easily.
Stability: Expect initial twitchiness
but better control at the higher levels of
performance. Edging is comfortable.
The positives: The finish and attention
to detail is the Seaward hallmark. The result is
a great looking boat on the water and off, with
lots of handy features.
Overall: Anyone shopping for a Brit-style
kayak will want to consider the Quantum for
its array of handy features that other models
likely don't have. Well-designed decking
means the ability to keep everything within
easy reach. In other words, it may not appeal
to everyone, but it is definitely among the top
options for those considering this style.
More info: visit seawardkayaks.com.
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SPRING 2009
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Wavelength Magazine
29
Navigation
by Adam Bolonsky
A few minutes of
planning before a
trip can take the
guesswork out of
on-the-fly decisions
C
hart reading takes practice.
One way to speed up the process is
to get in the habit of marking up your
charts before you paddle new areas. If you also
take a few minutes to waterproof your charts
(an easy task) and make them portable, you can
continue to mark up your charts while you’re
on the water.
Marking up charts before you paddle a new
area is also an excellent way to make your trip
safer, easier and more enjoyable.
First, look over the contours
of the coastline shown on your
chart. Look for low areas, preferably those
without cliffs or large boulders, that might
make potential safe landing areas, or possibly
camps (to read shoreline features, see the
Fall 2008 navigation feature, available online
at wavelengthmagazine.com). The safest
shoreline contours are those that indicate
beaches, cobble strands, protected coves and
ledges. The best bailouts are those close to
roads so that you can hitchhike
or take public transit back to the
put-in – or even call a cab if need
be. Mark these areas on your chart,
as it is much more difficult, once on
the water, to look for places to land
and wait out bad weather, deal with equipment
failure or regroup after big mishaps such as
capsizes.
In short, mark up your chart with notes:
where to camp, where you can find safe havens.
Doing so will make landing in an emergency
faster and easier. To make actually finding
those areas easier once you’re on water, take
care to mark the relevant landmarks, shown on
the chart, that lie near those areas. If your chart
shows a water tower or stand of radio antennas,
for example, on a hill near an area where the
coastline is low, circle them.
Marking up charts involves about a half a
dozen other intuitive steps.
Connect your A to B points with
Make your mark
30
Wavelength Magazine
thick bold strokes. You can draw your
lines on a waterproofed chart with a grease
pencil or colored felt-tip marker.
Your A to B points might be your put-in to
your first landmark (that island you want to
look at, for instance), and the next place you
plan to make landfall – the cove tucked away
inside that bold headland, for example.
Next, along the easy-to-see lines
connecting your A and B points, write, in clear
handwriting, the compass heading. Make sure
the notation is legible, so you can read it from
the foredeck and readily transfer the heading
to your foredeck compass once you’re on the
water.
Next, somewhere along the line that
SPRING 2009
connects your A to your B point and the
compass heading between them, add in the
backbearing, or the compass course you’ll need
to follow in case you need to turn back from B
to A.
Add in also a couple of letters to remind
you of what direction the compass heading
represents. SW, for example, for southwest, if
the heading is in the 240 range, E if the heading
is in the 90 range, and so on.
Using simple abbreviations like E, W, S, N,
etc., to remind you of your direction does much
to encourage heads-up navigation. Rather than
staring at your compass to stay on course, you
navigate along basic points of the compass by
making a mental note of where north is in the
area (by picking out a landmark) then making
Marking your chart
a mental and visual note of the other three points of the compass:
east, west, south, to keep yourself oriented. You then navigate by these
landmarks primarily, glancing down at your compass from time to time
to be sure that you are on course.
Encouraging heads-up navigation is a worthy notion. With heads-up
navigation, you spend more time looking at your surroundings and
less time staring at the compass or GPS. Not only do you get to enjoy
your surroundings more, you’re more aware of other boats, changes in
the weather, what your paddling companions are up to, etc. To make
heads-up navigation easier, make bold notations on your chart that you
can read with a glance.
Note along the A to B line where you expect to
encounter tidal currents, shipping lanes or ferry traffic.
If ferries are a concern, consider making a note of their schedules.
Needless to say, some passages from A to B are more complex than
others: the fast tidal waters of British Columbia, Alaska and Long Island
Sound, for example, or Nantucket and Vineyard Sounds off Cape Cod,
or off the Elizabeth Island archipelago of Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts.
Keep in mind that tidal velocity can be either an asset or a difficulty;
consider marking the optimal time to make a tidal crossing, and at what
time to avoid the area.
Consider making note of how long it should take
you to paddle between A to B. Including notes for the time
and distance between A and B is useful in areas prone to fog, haze
and limited visibility – especially if B is a small island in the middle of
nowhere. In short, making note of how long it should take you to reach
B gives you an idea of how soon you should begin to look for B, and how
soon you should regroup and reconsider why you haven’t attained it yet.
To estimate how long it should take you to paddle between the two
points, use a handy rule of thumb: if you’re a paddler with an efficient
forward stroke, you can probably paddle a nautical mile in somewhere
around 15 to 20 minutes, give or take.
Marking up charts also serves another purpose: in addition to
providing a reference you can glance at from the cockpit, marking up
a chart means that you carefully read your chart before you left. You
know where to land in an emergency; you know where to portage to
avoid hazards; you know where landings are likely to be dangerous if
not impossible.
<
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Adam Bolonsky is a kayak fishing guide and fitness expert
based near Gloucester, Massachusetts.
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SPRING 2009
Wavelength Magazine
31
Skillset
by Alex Matthews
Stirrups
a valuable
foot up
in assisted
rescues
W
hen it comes to
performing an assisted
rescue, the key element
to success is often the swimmer’s
ability to get out of the water and
onto the kayak’s stern deck. Whether
you are lifting the bow of the boat to
drain it before re-entry or pumping
the water out after the swimmer has
re-entered, the biggest challenge is
likely to be that ‘long difficult climb’
up onto the stern.
With the empty kayak stabilized
by a paddling partner, a strong, fit swimmer can simply pull with their
arms and lunge up onto the deck aided by a powerful and well-timed
kick. Once there, while staying low, with their chest in close contact with
the deck, they can swing their legs into the cockpit and then twist into a
sitting position in the cockpit. It’s fast, efficient and requires no extra gear.
But there are a number of factors that may make this approach less
than ideal. Firstly, some swimmers will not have the upper body strength
required and will struggle with the lunge. A large volume boat with
a high back deck also makes getting up onto the stern more difficult.
Bulky PFDs or items stored on the deck can also increase the challenge.
Likewise, injury, hypothermia or fatigue can quickly rob a swimmer of
the athleticism required to complete the maneuver.
In these situations a sling reentry is a great option. Slings are little
more than a piece of tubular webbing or rope tied in a long loop. Once in
place and adjusted to length, a sling works just like a step, allowing you to
use the big muscles in your leg, rather than your arms, to get up out of the
water. With a step up, getting your chest up onto the stern of your kayak
requires little more than flopping across your boat.
There are a number of ways to rig a sling. Some rely on wrapping the
sling around paddle shafts, which puts a lot of strain on your paddle. My
favorite method is one of the simplest: just drape the sling around the
combing of the boat to be reentered, then adjust the length of the sling as
needed in order to provide the best step up. (It’s also worth noting that
a sling can be used in conjunction with a paddle float for a solo re-entry,
although as always, an assisted rescue is faster and far more stable in
rough conditions.)
A sling can be easily made from a length of floating rope. Webbing
can work well too, but remember to include some flotation in your
system if the webbing you’re using doesn’t float (most doesn’t). There
Photos by Rochelle Relyea
Stepping up
1
2
32
With the kayaks facing opposite directions, the rescuer
commits aggressively to stabilizing the empty kayak.
With the sling in place around the combing, and adjusted to
length, the swimmer places a foot on the sling and steps up.
Wavelength Magazine
SPRING 2009
Sling-assisted entries
3
is nothing less useful than rescue gear that sinks to the
bottom when not secured.
About 14 feet of line is a good starting length. Tie the
two ends together to create a loop (an overhand knot is
fine, but feel free to get fancier with a double fisherman
knot if you wish). As the combing sizes of boats vary
widely, it’s important to start with a big (overly long)
loop of line. In use, you can quickly tie a second knot
into the sling in order to achieve the desired length.
Note that this rig can be easily improvised with just
about any length of webbing or rope (like a bowline for
instance) as long as it’s long enough.
Kayak gear manufacturer North Water also produce
an excellent commercially available rescue sling. It
incorporates flotation as well as a plastic clip. It is simple,
compact, easy to use, and very quick to adjust to length
via a quick-slide buckle – a great feature.
With a sling in place it’s so much easier to gain the
stern deck: just put a foot on the loop (once adjusted to
an optimal length) and step on up!
The swimmer flops
across his stern deck
with a hand on the
rescuer’s kayak for
extra stability.
4
Facing toward
his stern, the
swimmer feeds
his feet into the
cockpit.
5
<
Adapted from “Sea Kayaking: Rough Waters”
by Alex Matthews available at www.helipress.
com. Alex has authored and co-authored several
kayaking skills books and has been involved in the
design and development of kayaks. Contact him at
[email protected].
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SPRING 2009
2/10/09 10:48:32 AM
Wavelength Magazine
33
Wildlife
by James Michael Dorsey
In praise of the Great Blue
With the aura of a
warplane and the
dance of a dork,
the blue heron
is sure to entertain
The familiar whoop whoop reaches my ear a split
second before the dark shadow passes overhead.
I watch the surface minnows scatter as the large
silhouette glides over them and smile because my old
paddling companion, the great blue heron, is with me
once again.
With a wingspan wider than my outstretched arms
and its long spidery legs splayed flat out behind it, this
great bird brings to mind a mighty war plane.
After the California condor, the blue heron is the
largest bird on the west coast, and from the cockpit of
a kayak, they often tower over me as I paddle by.
While the blue heron is found inland, it is most
commonly seen along the coast, especially in marshy
areas. Perhaps it is not technically a seabird as it does
not travel far out from the coast, but it has been a
paddling companion of mine for enough years to
qualify in my own mind, and I have found it to be
friendly, curious and endlessly entertaining. When it
begins to mate, it could give “Dancing with the Stars”
a run for its money.
It is a migratory wading bird found throughout
north and Central America, but also in the West
Indies and Galapagos Islands, that feeds primarily on
small fish that it spears with its long pointed beak. But
it will also eat snakes, shellfish, rodents, amphibians
and reptiles.
I live in southern California near Marina Del
Rey, the largest man-made marina in the world. I
usually paddle out of there to follow the coast. I can
speak from long experience when I say not only are
there vast numbers of blue herons around, but these
enormous birds have totally acclimated to the place,
making themselves right at home on boats and along
the docks. They are so used to people they sometimes
will not move when you walk right by them and it can
be very intimidating to paddle past a boat slip and
have a three-foot-tall bird staring down at you.
They have a screeching kind of croak that they do
not hesitate to use if smaller birds invade their space,
and I have even had them take a half-hearted swipe at
me for paddling too close to their resting spot.
I have seen young herons land on kayaks for a rest
while learning to fly, and had them swoop over me so
low as to feel their draft countless times. Once a young
one landed on my deck and used my bungee to scrape
off a bit of sea grass that was caught on its beak.
Sometimes I have felt they deliberately go out of their
way to relieve themselves on my kayak.
Its name is a bit misleading as the color scheme is
quite varied, being mostly blue-gray over the upper
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34
34
Wavelength
Wavelength Magazine
Magazine
January2009
2009
SPRING
yoga
GreatKayak
Blue Heron
portion of its torso with black flight feathers and a redbrown to black stripe along its flanks. It has a gray neck
with nearly white face and two black plumes on top of its
head running from just behind the eyes and tapering off
to the rear of the head. Its legs are red to brown.
During mating season the males aggressively stake
their claim to an area from other males, usually where
a former nest has been or sometimes they will claim an
old nest for restoration. The male will shriek loudly at
the first approach of a female and put on a grand display
of dancing and gyrations to attract her attention. No
disco floor has ever seen slicker moves than those of a
blue heron in pursuit of a mate. He will flap his wings,
kick his long legs and screech as though someone is
killing him. You have to be a female heron to truly
appreciate this degrading spectacle. Once together a
pair will mate almost immediately, but they are not
monogamous and take a new mate each year.
I have the pleasure of paddling in an area that boasts
over 40 types of seabirds, and always feel it will be a
great day when I pass a blue heron on my way into the
<
blue.
James Michael Dorsey can be reached at
[email protected].
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SPRING 2009
Wavelength Magazine
35
Safety
by Michael Pardy
John Kimantas photo
Traveling in a group can be part
of the fun, but not necessarily if
one person takes pictures while
everyone else sets up camp.
(Cow Bay, Flores Island,
Clayoquot Sound)
A
s an outdoor guide and
instructor with a busy outfitting
business and a family, I don’t get many
chances to tour for fun. When I do, I don’t
want to take on much of the responsibility of
organizing and leading these trips because I
want a break from work. The reality is though,
that I have a lot of leadership experience
and have most of the gear, which makes me
a logical choice for group organizer. These
competing interests can cause problems, as I
found out.
A few years back we planned a five-day
trip for family and a couple of friends to the
Broken Islands Group. We discussed the goals
of the trip – a relaxing week in the islands with
friends and time to explore. What we hadn’t
discussed were individual responsibilities,
leaving it entirely to chance. In particular, I
was deliberately avoiding most responsibilities
related to navigation and scheduling. More
importantly, I didn’t want to spend much
time in the kitchen or on other camp chores.
To their credit, my wife, Kari, and friends Bill
and Karen recognized my implicit desire for a
work-free week and tried to take on as much of
this work as possible.
The issue of responsibility came to a
head a couple of days into the trip after a
rough crossing. My wife pulled me aside
and expressed concern about our safety.
She reminded me that our friends had little
experience, seemed scared, and that we needed
to do something or this trip might turn them
36
Wavelength Magazine
Groups and goals
Casual friendships
can go awry, often
with dangerous
consequences,
if roles of a group
aren't clearly defined
off paddling forever. She also reminded me
this was my area of expertise; she was willing
to help, but I needed to be more involved in
this trip.
We set up camp, and over dinner we
discussed the day’s events. Bill and Karen said
they enjoyed the day but were scared by the
crossing. The water was rough and controlling
the kayaks was harder than they expected. This
loss of control left them uneasy. My seeming
indifference only served to exacerbate their
anxiety. What they needed from me were
some tips for handling their boats in rough
water and reassurance that the conditions were
within their ability. Bill and Karen needed to
know I would be there to provide emotional
and technical support when they needed it. I
realized that I had become a passive member of
SPRING 2009
the group, essentially isolating myself from the
others and our shared experiences.
Once we sorted through these issues we
agreed that I would take responsibility for
heading up discussions about weather, sea
state and other kayaking-related issues and the
others would take responsibility for running
the campsite. This is not to say that I sat around
and watched as my friends worked to set up
camp and cook dinner, or that they followed
me blindly on the water. We each simply
had our area of responsibility based on our
strengths. I needed to become an equal and
active member of this group in order to achieve
our goals.
This trip highlighted for me the importance
of agreeing not only on the location and the
obvious format of the trip, but also the implicit
goals and expectations of group members.
In my professional work as a guide, goals and
expectations are laid out by the organizations
for which I work. Individual responsibilities are
delegated by the trip leaders. In the context of
a peer group, I needed to take a step back and
work with the others to develop and agree to a
shared set of goals and expectations.
Goals and expectations should include the
following:
Goals of the trip: What is the group
The Group Contract
trying to accomplish by going on the trip?
Membership: Who gets to be a group
member? Are there specific requirements for
membership including financial commitment,
skills, equipment, and time?
Expectations of the group
members: What does each group member
expect to get out of trip?
Location of the trip: Where is the trip
happening?
Duration and time of year of the
trip: How long is the trip? What time of year
is the trip?
Money: What are the costs of the trip
and who pays for it? What is the budget for
incidentals?
Style of travel: How does the group
want to travel?
Leadership: How will the group
establish roles and responsibilities?
Decision making: How will the group
make decisions?
In peer groups, these topics must be
addressed by the group members. Many
peer groups have paddled together on several
trips as well as shorter paddles and have
developed a shared understanding of many
of the fundamental topics without explicitly
discussing them. Under most situations,
this is not a problem. But under stress, either
because of external factors such as weather
or challenges to logistics, or internal factors
such as injury, illness, conflict or anxiety,
peer groups can experience difficulties in
gathering information, making decisions and
solving problems. A crisis is not the time to
resolve potential conflicts around goals and
expectations. Longer and more challenging
trips require greater clarity and acceptance of
group goals and expectations.
Clearly articulated goals will also help
answer other fundamental questions such as
membership, style of travel, and leadership.
Many trips have an obvious outcome, such as
the circumnavigation of an island. Other trips
have less tangible goals such as experiencing
and exploring the local ecology. On many
trips there is an explicit goal clearly articulated,
but embedded within this goal are a series of
goals and expectations not articulated. Groups
should dig deeper and bring these implicit
goals and expectations to the surface and
include them in the planning of the trip.
Implicit goals and expectations often
relate to the style of travel of the group and the
individual responsibilities of group members.
Personal expectations should match the
group goals. If the group is planning an island
circumnavigation and a group member is
actually more interested in exploring the
local ecology, then the group may experience
conflict when it comes time to leave the beach
in strong winds and waves.
In my situation, I first had to accept that
although I was physically on the trip, I was not
actually working with my friends and family
toward the goals to which we all agreed. My
passivity was undermining the trip; I needed
to become an active member of the group,
bringing my skills and experience to our shared
experience.
What I learned was that not all paddling
is work. I can share my skills and use my
experience in new ways in peer groups to not
only meet my needs but the needs of others.
But this can only happen if we share our goals
and expectations and work together toward our
common goals.
<
Michael Pardy lives in Victoria, where he runs
SKILS Ltd. He can be reached at [email protected].
WWW.FEATHERCRAFT.COM / MADE IN CANADA / PADDLED WORLDWIDE
SPRING 2009
Wavelength Magazine
37
From the Rainforest
by Dan Lewis
Should I stay or should I go?
A
s a paddler I am torn
between a desire to hike
and paddle everywhere – to
explore every nook and cranny of each
and every rock and island on the coast
– and a divergent desire to just stop,
look and listen to the nature around
me. No need to chase after it, just wait
and let it come to you. This conflict
manifests in my desire to explore my
backyard here in Clayoquot Sound
thoroughly, versus my dream of
paddling the entire coast of British
Columbia.
Becoming intimate with Clayoquot
Sound is a modest goal by the
standards of the modern globetrotter.
And then there’s the rest of the B.C. coast.
Twenty years ago I set a goal to paddle down
the Alaska panhandle and the B.C. coast all
the way to Washington. Again, a fairly modest
goal compared to many modern expedition
kayakers. How have I done? Pretty good, but
recently I revised my plan – I figure at this point
I’ll be doing well if I can simply paddle the
entire B.C. coast in this lifetime.
That’s why Bonny and I have spent parts
of the last three summers kayaking the North
Coast of B.C., from Prince Rupert to Bella
Bella. The level of intimacy we have been able
to find up there reminds me of what it was
like when I first started paddling down here.
I felt then that I knew a place if I could name
the major channels and islands, if I could look
across the bay and knew the name of the far
point. I’ve come to accept that B.C. stands for
38
Wavelength Magazine
To get to really
know a place, one
has to embrace it
Big Country – it would take many lifetimes to
possibly get to know it all. When I visit a First
Nations village up north, I know I am a visitor
who might pass through once or several times
at most. Back home, I am getting to know the
different tribes a bit, even learning a smattering
of the Nuu-Chah-Nulth language. It is a
completely different experience.
My inner struggle was perhaps reflected
in my choice of books for our expedition
this summer. For the first leg of our voyage I
brought along Walt Whitman’s Leaves of Grass,
the original 1855 edition. “I lean and loafe at my
SPRING 2009
ease,” he wrote, “observing a spear of
summer grass.” My kind of guy! And
indeed I did take opportunities to do
just that. We spent days just sitting
under the tarp, scanning the horizon
and both ends of the beach, waiting
and watching for wildlife to appear.
We were not disappointed. One
day on Porcher Island we were
watching humpback whales spout
offshore, but kept being distracted
by flocks of Townsend’s Warblers –
fluffy fledglings the size and shape of
golf balls flitting through the spruce
branches not six feet away, their wee
buzzy voices begging for food, nearly
choking as their harried parents
stuffed bugs into their gaping mouths. Another
day I was sitting on a beach, intently staring at
the place were I had just seen a wolf slip away
into the forest, hoping it might reappear, when
I noticed in my peripheral vision a big bull
orca leading a pod past the bay. When Bonny
showed up I was so flabbergasted I could barely
explain that I was actually in the process of
looking for a wolf. The whales blowing off the
point were only the side show!
Some days I would get in the kayak and
just toodle about – easy days of fun paddling.
One day, in a light northwest breeze under
a cloudless blue sky, I went to fetch water in
a nearby cove. Reflected sunlight dappled
overhanging cliffs burdened to the lip with
moss-carpeted rainforest, water droplets
refracted sunlight like miniature prisms as they
dripped into the saltchuck, and I sat in my boat
From the Rainforest
picking plump ripe blueberries. Heaven on
earth! It reminded me of a summer holiday, as
I wrote in my journal (although 2008 featured
some of the worst summer weather I have ever
experienced).
By contrast, the book I brought for the
second half of our expedition was John Muir’s
Travels in Alaska. I used to think of Muir as a
mountain man, climbing amongst the glaciers
of the high Sierra, not a paddler. Turns out
Muir is a sea canoeist: “For those who really
care to get into hearty contact with the coast
region, travel by canoe is by far the better
way… With plenty of provisions packed…
in rubber or canvas bags, you may be truly
independent, and enter into partnership with
Nature; to be carried with the winds and
currents, accept the noble invitations offered
all along your way to enter the mountain fiords,
the homes of the waterfalls and glaciers, and
encamp almost every night beneath hospitable
trees.” One of the better descriptions of
paddling I’ve ever read!
It was hard to read Muir while on the trip. I
kept getting the feeling that he would not be
reading books while out in the wilderness.
He would be sucking every last morsel of
sweetness from the day, even on days when
most of us would rather hide in the tent and,
well, read a good book. For example: “Next
morning was cloudy and windy, snowy and
cold, dreary December weather in August, and
I gladly ran out to see what I might learn.”
When I complained about not getting out in
the gnar as much as Muir would have, Bonny
would console me by pointing out that Muir
had hired a crew of Tlingits who would paddle
the canoe while he sketched, set up camp while
he roamed about looking for glaciers, and cook
meals to which he could return after dark.
In the end, I try to achieve a balance
between my allegiance to home and the urge to
roam. I’m getting to know my backyard pretty
well – I’ve paddled over four thousand miles
in Tofino harbour alone! And I’m hoping to
continue paddling the north coast in years to
come. Ultimately I realized this summer that
one could spend an entire lifetime getting
to know any particular place. Whether close
to home or far afield, the coast is alive and
amazing wherever you go.
A whole new world is about to unfold...
Planet
Kayak
Paddling the web will never be the same again.
<
Dan Lewis and Bonny Glambeck operate
Rainforest Kayak Adventures
in Clayoquot Sound
SPRING 2009
Wavelength Magazine
39
Fishing Angles
Fishing FAQs
I
love to talk fishing. And one
thing I have noticed over 20 years of
communicating professionally is that
some people are shy about admitting what
they don’t know. That includes fishing, and
experienced anglers often won’t ask questions
about the basics – skills they figure they should
know, but don’t quite know how to master.
Here are my answers to four of the most
frequently asked questions I receive.
How do I set the reel’s drag? The
reel’s drag is designed to allow the spool to
release line, even when it is engaged and you
are reeling in, if a fish pulls hard enough to
potentially break the line. The amount of
tension you set the drag to hold until releasing
line is based on the breaking strength of your
line. It should be set to “slip” at 50 to 75% of the
line’s tested strength to make sure it releases
line before it breaks. You can set the drag by
loosening it and threading the line through
the rod’s guides and attaching it to a hand-held
scale. Reel down to the scale and then lift the
rod as if landing a fish, and tighten the drag
until it holds at a point where the scale shows
a reading of one-half to three-quarters of the
pound test you are using. Always test your
drag with the line threaded through the guides
and under the tension of a flexed rod to create
actual fishing-like conditions.
How and when do I set the hook?
The hook’s point needs to be set in the fish’s
mouth in order to maintain a firm connection
between you and the fish while you land it.
Traditional hooks are set by removing any
slack in the line and giving the rod a sharp
upward or sideways snap to use the line to drag
the sharp hook into the fish’s flesh.
Set too soon and you risk pulling the bait
right out of the fish’s mouth; set too late and
the fish may feel the hook or the line, sense
the deception and spit the bait out; or it may
swallow the bait, resulting in a deep hook-set
that may prove fatal. Learning when to set
the hook when fishing for a particular species
with a particular bait or method takes trial and
error. You’ll know when you’ve done it right:
you’ll start catching lots of lip-hooked fish!
40
Wavelength Magazine
What if the fish swallows the
hook? Most fish will be hooked in the
mouth, where the hook is easily backed out
and removed. Having needle-nosed pliers,
commercial hook removers or hemostats
makes the job easier. But sometimes the fish
can swallow the bait – and the hook – which
becomes impaled deep in the throat, possibly
even be out of sight. If that’s the case, it’s almost
always better to cut the line as close to the hook
as you can and release the fish. The hook may
rust away or dissolve over time or the fish may
be able to live with the hook imbedded, and the
fish’s chances of survival are better than if you
probe around with pliers or a hook remover
and do more damage.
What do I do if I get a snag?
Snags are a part of fishing, and you need to
be prepared to lose some terminal tackle
and lures and have enough back-up line and
tackle to keep on fishing. That said, when you
do hang up, try wiggling the rod tip lightly
while moving around to vary the angle of the
pressure. If you can get upstream or to the far
side of the snag from where you were when it
originally hung up, you can often pull the hook
free. What you don’t want to do is break your
rod by flexing it violently overhead or to the
side to try to force the hook free. If you’ve tried
SPRING 2009
by Dan Armitage
Knowing when to set the hook
comes with practice: jerk too
soon and you’ll take the bait
right from the fish’s mouth;
wait too long and the fish will
detect trouble and spit the bait
before you react!
gently wiggling and shaking at all the angles
of pull available and the hook is still snagged,
you should point the rod at the bait, reel the
slack out of the line and, between the reel and
the first guide, wrap a few turns around your
hand if the line is light – say 12 pound test or
less. You’ll want to have a towel around your
hand, or wrap the line around a stick, if it is
stronger than that, so as not to cut into your
skin.
Don’t pull with the line going directly to
the reel or it will dig into the remaining line
on the spool, cutting it or creating problems
there. Once you have a firm grip and all slack
out of the line, keep your rod pointed directly
at where the line enters the water, turn your
head to the side to shield your face and eyes,
and slowly back up. The line will break – or
the hook will straighten or break free – and
the rod won’t break in the process. Check
the remaining line for worn knots or fraying,
retie your terminal tackle and get back to the
fishing!
<
Dan Armitage is a boating, fishing and travel
writer based in the Midwest. He is a licensed
(USCG Master) captain, hosts a syndicated radio
show and presents kayaking fishing seminars at
boat shows.
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Wavelength Magazine
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Wavelength Magazine
SPRING 2009
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Wavelength Magazine
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Freewheeling Adventures
For discriminating paddlers. Nova Scotia, PEI, Cape
Breton, Quebec. Inn-based paddling; yacht-supported
camping; or multisport. Guided small groups, private,
or self-guided adventures, day trips, and quality
rentals. Exquisite picnics. Local guides.
Phone: 1-800-672-0775.
Web: www.freewheeling.ca
Email: [email protected]
There's more online!
wavelengthmagazine.com
44
Wavelength Magazine
www. rainforestkayak. com 877-422-9453
guide certification
advanced skills tr
Gabriola Sea Kayaking
"Gabriola Sea Kayaking offers Unforgettable, Safe,
Fun and Affordable Multiday Tours, Groups and
Courses in Kyuquot, Broken Group, Clayoquot, Nootka,
Broughtons, Gulf Islands. Hope to paddle with you this
season!
Web: www.hooksumschool.com
Email: [email protected]
SPRING 2009
Explore B.C.’s remote coastal
wilderness in comfort and safety!
Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton
Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound
www.mothershipadventures.com
Marketplace
Tours: British Columbia
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Lessons, tours, memories
No experience necessary. River and ocean tours,
whitewater kayak lessons, elite summer camps,
custom tours, courses and adult getaways. Find your
adventurous side and join us on the water!
Phone: 1-888-KS-KAYAK or 250-701-1888
Web: www.kindredspiritkayak.com
Email: [email protected]
Sealegs Kayaking Adventures
Sealegs’ Eco-Adventure Centre offers waterfront access
at Transfer Beach Ladysmith. Guided wilderness tours,
rentals, lessons and sales from our pro shop. Multi-day
adventures, FREE lessons with tours and rentals.
Phone: 250-245-4096 or 1-877-KAYAK BC (529-2522)
Web: www.SealegsKayaking.com
Email: [email protected]
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Elements Women's Travel
Adventure tours for women. Unique day and multi-day
tours in the coastal waters of BC. Custom itineraries for
women, all designed to 'get into your element'!
Phone: 250-245-9580
Web: www.elementstravel.com
Email: [email protected]
Eco Adventures & Education since 1991
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Odyssey Kayaking
BC Ferries port; Gateway to Northern and Central
BC Coast destinations. Sales, Rentals, Lessons, Trip
planning, and Custom Tours. New location, 8625
Shipley Street, across from the Port Hardy post office.
Phone: 250-902-0565 or toll-free 1-888-792-3366
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.odysseykayaking.com
Eclectic itineraries for the Gulf Islands & Costa Rica
Kayaking, Sailing, Hiking, Climbing, Surfing...
* School programs * Team Building Retreats * Guides’ Courses
Clothing/Gear Shop & 2 Accommodations on Salt Spring Island
1 888 529-2567 • 250 537 2553 • www.islandescapades.com
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Come paddle with us
in beautiful Baja!
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Tours: Baja Mexico
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ADVENTURE OUTFITTERS
www.bajakayakadventures.com
Shared cost adventuring
Seeking kayakers for shared cost adventuring
British Columbia coasts aboard my sailboat. Take
2 only plus myself. Comfort of mothership and
adventuring of the sea kayak.
Please contact [email protected] for details.
Accommodation
Lake Tahoe Vacation Rentals
Homeaway.com has 1000+ Lake Tahoe vacation
rentals available, from rustic cabins to waterfront
estates. Search homeaway.com now for great deals on
vacation homes in South Lake Tahoe.
Phone: Toll-free 866-771-3010
Web: www.homeaway.com
Email: [email protected]
Island retreat & sailing cruises
Relax and retreat to the gorgeous Gulf Islands. Sail
aboard a classic 34’ wooden yacht then retreat to a
charming and secluded cottage on an island oasis.
Separate sail and or retreat packages available.
Affordable, kayak friendly. Transport available.
Phone: 250-247-7161
Web: www.mickeyudal.com
Email: [email protected]
SPRING 2009
Powell River Sea Kayak
Experience the amazing marine wildlife of Desolation
Sound Marine Park! 2 historic locations at the end of
the road on the Northern Sunshine Coast of BC: Lund
and Okeover Inlet. Offering high quality guided tours,
a wide selection of rentals, sales and lessons from
certified instructors. Check us out!
Phone: 604-483-2160
Web: www.bcseakayak.com
Kanoe People Ltd.
Explore Yukon's great rivers and lakes! Rentals, sales,
guided tours and logistic services. Cabin rentals
summer and winter on the scenic Lake Laberge.
Outfitting on the Yukon for over 35 years.
Web: www.kanoepeople.com
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 867-668-4899
Wavelength Magazine
45
Events 2009
March 14-22, 2009
The Pacific Rim Whale Festival
Ucluelet-Tofino, BC
Each spring the entire North American
population of Pacific grey whales migrate along
the west coast of Vancouver Island, BC. An
estimated 22,000 greys make the journey from
Mexico's Baja Peninsula along the west coast
to their summer feeding grounds in the Bering
and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic.
Travelling close to the shoreline, the whales
provide excellent viewing opportunities
from the rocky headlands along the coast
between Ucluelet and Tofino. Free public
viewing stations are available at Amphitrite
Point Lighthouse in Ucluelet and at the
Wickaninnish Centre in Pacific Rim National
Park. Get even closer to these magnificent
animals with a whale watching excursion with
local charter boats or floatplanes from Ucluelet
or Tofino.
Visit www.pacificrimwhalefestival.org
March 19-26, 2009
Paddle Florida
Join Paddle Florida on Florida's beautiful
Suwannee River. The spring trip is 123 miles of
paddling, camping, campfires, entertainment
and camaraderie beginning at Spirit of the
Suwannee Music Park and ending at Manatee
Springs State Park. Paddle Florida is supported by the
Suwannee Wilderness Trail and the Florida
Park Service. Visit www.paddleflorida.org.
May 9-10, 2009
Vancouver Island Paddlefest, BC
Vancouver Island's largest kayaking
symposium is held at Transfer Beach in a
weekend-long festival with activities and events
for paddlers of all ages and paddling abilities.
Participants can attend this free event and
enjoy a variety of activities including a trade
show, workshops, demonstrations and fun
activities. Visit www.paddlefest.bc.ca
Watch for the events page updated
regularly at
wavelengthmagazine.com/Events.html
May 16-17, 2009
Northern Rockies
Paddling Symposium, MT
The symposium runs rain or shine at
Wayfarer’s State Park just outside of Bigfork,
Montana. Demo and compare different boats,
ask questions, learn techniques, cash in on
great deals, and meet others who share the
same interests.
May 21-26
2009 Immersion Sea Kayaking
Skills Symposium, Homer, AK
Participate in five days of sea kayaking
instruction in scenic Kachemak Bay and
develop boat control skills, rescue skills,
navigation skills and more. Courses taught on
a progression are aimed at developing your sea
kayaking skills in calm water, wind and waves,
tidal streams and open crossings. Expedition
paddler and adventurer Sean Morley is the
guest speaker and instructor. Visit
www.alaskakayakschool.com/symposium09.
June 7, 2009
Round Bowen Challenge
Bowen Island, BC
The 10th annual Round Bowen Challenge
is a 34-km race around Bowen Island in Howe
Sound, BC.
June 12-14, 2009
South Sound Traditional Inuit
Kayak Symposium
Twanoh State Park, WA
This family-friendly weekend event features
instructors and competitors in Greenland-style
kayaking. Activities include paddle-making
classes, on-water instruction, demonstrations,
games and evening presentations. Suitable for
beginners to advanced paddlers and rollers.
Visit www.qajaqpnw.org
June 18-21, 2009
Inland Sea Kayak Symposium
Washburn, WI
The Inland Sea Kayak Symposium is a
three-day instructional gathering for beginner
to advanced kayakers. Classes include strokes,
rescues, women-focused paddling, Greenland
paddling training and more. Keynote speaker
this year is Nigel Dennis. Visit
www.inlandsea.org
July 15-19, 2009
Assembly “Sail & Paddle”
Keuka College, Keuka Park, NY
(Finger Lakes Region)
Hosted by the Wooden Canoe Heritage
Association, the event program includes
presentations and displays regarding research,
documentation, identification; construction
and repair skills; canoeing skills; camping
skills; and children's programs.
Visit http://wcha.org/assembly.php
July 20, 2009
Yukon 1000
This is the first year for the Yukon 1000
Canoe and Kayak Race – 1,000 miles down
the Yukon River.
Teams are required to carry Spot devices
and use them to report their position on a
regular basis. Teams are also required to
stop for 6 hours each night, verified by Spot
telemetry. The winning team is expected to
reach the Alaska Pipeline in just under a week.
You can watch the race on the web at
http://yukon1000/resultsx.
html?race=09y1k. This race is open to tandem
canoes and kayaks, voyageur canoes, and
teams of two solo canoes or kayaks travelling
together. Teams must have previous wilderness
and canoe racing experience. The entry fee for
this race is $250CN or $212.50US per person.
For more information visit
http://yukon1000.com/, or email
mailto:[email protected] or phone
1-867-668-4630.
Explore. Learn. Share.
The oldest kayaking resource on the web is just getting started. Visit www.wavelengthmagazine.com
46
Wavelength Magazine
SPRING 2009
Exploring BC this summer?
We'll help you get where you want to be.
Discover Wavelength's
new recreation map series.
The Desolation Sound/
Discovery Islands Recreation
Map and Trip Planner
$9.95
The North Coast Trail
and North Vancouver Island
$8.00
Don't forget
The Wild Coast resources:
The Clayoquot Sound
Recreation Map and
Trip Planner
$9.95
Three volumes of information
covering every nook and
cranny of the BC coast.
All maps full color,
double-sided, 22x36
on heavy stock
Plus two atlases for the
BC south coast and
West Vancouver Island.
www.thewildcoast.ca
The Broken Group Islands and
Barkley Sound Recreation Map
and Trip Planner
$9.95
Order online or find a store: www.wavelengthmagazine.com/maps.html
or call to order by phone: 1-866-984-6437
WaveLength
Your complete source
for paddling information.
Online and in print.