E46 Install Guide Standard/Xenon/BiXenon

Transcription

© Üm•nitza inc. MMII-III
Daylight Demon Eyes™
{A Registered Tradmark of Apexcone}
INTRODUCTION
This step-by-step guide is designed to be used in
together with other available documentation including: üm•nitza Video Tutorials, üm•nitza Customer
Success Stories and the üm•nitza DDE (Daylight
Demon Eyes) FAQ.
This Install Doc’s purpose is to walk you through
assembly steps to install Daylight Demon Eyes™ into
the headlamp of a BMW E46.
The installation is rather intuitive and you should be
able to complete both headlamps in approximately 2
hours including wiring.
TOOLS REQUIRED
1. 1/4” or 3/8” Socket Wrench
2. Metric sockets 8mm and 10mm
3. 7/8” Wood-type spade Drill Bit
4. Electric Drill
5. Slip joint or Channel Lock Type Pliers
6. Small Straight-Edge Screwdriver
7. Small Philips Screwdriver
8. Single Edge Razor Blade/Utility Knife
9. Scissors
10. Clear 2-part Epoxy glue (90 second variety preferred) or Optional Clear Silicone Sealant
11. Extending Magent ($5 kind)
12. Cigar Cutter (standard plastic)
13. 8’ of 24/26g Wire [not pictured]
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KEY SECTIONS:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Contents
Headlight Removal
Fiber Routing/Ring Installation
Light Box Installation
Wiring
Headlight Installation
Tips and Clues
HEADLIGHTS ADDRESSED
1.
2.
3.
4.
E46 Standard/Xenon
E46 Bi-Xenon
E46 with Cold Weather Package
Note on Auto Leveling
0
CONTENTS
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
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4 Gen IV Rings w/ Standard or Bi-Xenon Clips
8 Proprietary Fiber Cables (24” EACH)
2 Proprietary Light Boxes (Unassembled)
2 Lamps
2 Lighting Power Adapters
2 High Temperature Vinyl Sheaths
2 Bushings (Optional)
4 Butt Splices
4 Wiring Connectors
Miscellaneous Tie Wraps and Other Small Parts
1
HEADLIGHTS ADDRESSED
1.
2.
3.
4.
E46 Standard/Xenon
E46 Bi-Xenon
E46 with Cold Weather Package
Notes
Standard BOSCH
Bi-Xenon BOSCH
BiXenon With Cold Weather Package
BiXenon With Cold Weather Package Facelift
1. Does NOT interfere with Auto Leveling feature
of Bi-Xenon Headlights.
2. 3 Different BOSCH headlights under one part
number. Fitting designed for “middle” of all
three
E4 6 I n s t a l l G u i d e S t a n d a r d / X e n o n / B i X e n o n
HEADLIGHT REMOVAL
Remove 4 8mm bolts to remove headlight. For the two
“shiny” metallic looking bolts, one bolt is located towards
the inside of the grill (for each headlight), and one bolt
located behind the headlight. See pictures below.
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There are 7 tabs holding the outer lens cover to the
headlamp.
Lift each one to release the front lens cover, pull it free
and set aside.
After removing the headlamp, pull the weather strip
trim straight out at each connector and remove it. See
Picture Below.
The beauty ring is held at all four corners. Pull straight
out using light pressure with a flat-blade screw driver
and set aside on a towel. This ring may require trimming
in the future depending on fit and headlight type.
2
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HEADLIGHT REMOVAL (cont.)
If you have Bi-Xenons on your E46 M3 (2002 to present),
you will have an HID Ballast in the direction of the driver’s
side shock tower (seen in the picture below). To remove
this ballast, the plastic cover is held in place by some
plastic tabs. Firmly grasp the cover and pull up on it.
Once detached, there is one bolt holding the frame that
the HID ballast resides in. Unhook the two wiring harness
connectors, and carefully remove the ballast as you
remove the headlight. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DETACH THE
BALLAST FROM THE HEADLIGHT.
The Washer System pulls out with relatively minimal pressure.
The following are key step by step procedures for how to
remove the washer nozzles.
1) Pull lower headlight trim out until first nozzle
2) Reach behind the trim piece to pull the nozzle out a
fraction of an inch
3) Grab nozzle and pull out of trim piece
4) Twist nozzle trim piece off by turning in the direction
away from the grill/center of the car
If you have the Cold Weather Package, additional steps
will be required to remove the assembly. Below and
right are pictures of the trim and how it looks when it has
the headlight washer parts shown below removed.
5) Once the trim is removed, grasp the washer spray
nozzle firmly, and twist away from the center of the
car (counter clockwise on passenger side, clockwise
on driver’s side).
*Please Note - some fluid, even all fluid from the
washer reservoir may spill out. This is normal.
Headlight Washer Pieces - do not “mix” them.
3
Fiber Routing/Ring Installation
You will need to drill a 7/8” hole in the back of the
headlamp to route the fiber optics out to the remote
light box. The light box is remote to allow it to be positioned to clear Cold Air Intakes and Superchargers, etc.
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4 holes drilled. When drilling be sure to use an extra
sharp drill bit and press lightly while the drill is set to high
speed. This will prevent you from drilling through anything behind the headlights.
Fiber routing as it looks before “clean-up”.
Speaker wire cover shown not included in kit. Headlights
If you have chosen to drill the 7/8” hole to route the
fiber through, please use the attached bushing to protect the fiber from damage around the sharp edges
of the hole with this bushing and check to ensure that
there are no wires in the location where you intend to
drill the hole.
used for demonstration are Bi-Xenons w/ Auto Leveling
from a 2002 E46 M3.
Optionally, the current method of choice is to run the
fiber through individually drilled holes that are exactly
17/64th” in diameter. See pictures below and on the
for size
and
routing
details.
4
Fiber Routing/Ring Installation (cont.)
Clips come in 2 different designs and 3 different attachments. Using the pictures below, please identify which
parts you have and confirm that they are a match for
your headlight style.
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When placing the rings onto the trim pieces (bevel) of
the headlight, be sure to press firmly down on the ring
as the clip slides over the lip of the headlight reflective
piece. If the reflective piece is too thick you may either
dremel out a small (10mil) section of the reflective element, or use a side to side rocking motion to position
the clip.
BiXenon Clip
Standard/Halogen/Non-BiXenon Clip
Below is a picture of the rings as the fiber is routed into
them and lit up.
Both clip styles on one ring indicates that you have a
Bi-Xenon application. When you have two Bi-Xenon
clips on your ring, that Dual Bi-Xenon Clip ring goes
onto the headlight’s LOW BEAM side. The “staggered”
ring that has both the Bi-Xenon Clip and Standard
clip on it should be placed on the INSIDE. That is, the
smaller ring should be on the inside towards the center
of the car.
Both the picture above and below show the drivers and
passenger’s side installations, respectively. To ensure
proper fit, please route the fiber through the holes first,
insert them into the rings, then attach the rings to the
bevel.
5
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Light Box Installation (THIS IS ONLY FOR
GENERATION IV KITS)
Installing your lightbox may be performed at any time
during the install pre-wiring. It is esssential to follow
some key steps to ensure proper fitment and brightness.
First, open the box in which the light bulbs are stored.
Find the connector with the two little holes in them and
insert the light bulb into those two openings - shown
below.
The push bracket can be moved into the above position either by finger pressure of with a screw driver. The
The next step is to begin assembling the box. The easiest and quickest was to do the assembly is to make sure
you line up all the necessary parts, also note that when
doing preliminary assebly, do not tighten the screws,
as that will prevent you from being able to complete
installation properly.
position above is the ideal angle.
Please note the way the lamp brackets slots in under
the pushed up lamp holding bracket.
See picture below for the first step.
There is a metal tab that is in front of the bracket shown
above. That metal tab is used to ensure the light bulbs
rests securely inside the light box. The pictures on the
next page shows the full detail.
The lamps base is
rectangular. The
width is longer
than the height.
The widest section
should slot between
the bracket’s opening. This ensures
that the bracket
further secures the
lamp to prevent
any unwanted
lamp movements
and changnes of
focus.
6
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LIGHT BOX INSTALLATION (Gen IV & V) (cont.) LIGHT BOX SAMPLE LOCATIONS (Gen IV & V) (cont.)
The next step is to tie wrap
the fibers together before
they ener the barrel. This
step is shown in the pictures
starting at left and proceeding below.
Please note the proximity of
the fibers to the end of the
barrel. The picture at the
Once the light box is completed, you can now examine
locations for its placement. Wherever it is placed, make
sure you have that area completely clean and dry.
The placement of the passenger side light box will not
change whether you have Generation IV or Generation
V.
Drivers Side - Best Place Near Shock Tower
top is the Generation
IV install, while the picture at right is the new
Generation V fiber
connector.
The bottom picture
shows the tie wrap to
the barrel. Note that
in this picture that the
For E46 M3
Passenger Side - This Differs for Generation IV and V
bent tab is used to hold the top of the lamp in place.
See opposite page for mounting details for Generation V
7
LIGHT BOX SAMPLE LOCATIONS (cont.)
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Standard E46 Install Gen V driver’s side install
E46 Passenger - Custom Mounting Bracket Not Included.
Standard E46 Install
Standard E46 Passenger Install Gen V
8
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These wire tap ins have two
barrel openings. One opening is a “straight-through”
which is what attaches to
the the existing wire.
LIGHT BOX WIRING (Generation IV)
Now that you’ve found the correct location for your light
box, it’s time to look at the wiring options available.
Below are several different wiring alternatives for the E46
- under no circumstances should you EVER wire the light
boxes to the E46’s Turn Signals/Parking Lights. We will
detail them in progressively more difficult steps.
The other opening is short
on one end, and long on
the other. You begin to tap
the wire by placing the wire
that you braided into that
long opening next to the
exiting wire and crimping
down the metal tab with a
pair of pliers.
First, find two different color wires of the same guage
and wrap them together tightly. The best method for
doing this is using your drill, inserting both wires into the
drill, and having someone hold the two ends apart on
the other side. Then, by turning the drill clockwise, you
can make the wires wrap around each other tightly.
One will want to begin by locating your power and
ground “tap in” locations. The quiests and easiest is the
E46’s fog lights - on both the M3 and the 323/325/328/
330 cars.
9
Your next step will be to run the wire that
you just tapped (the braided one) back
to the lamps two wire leads.
To connect
the plugs,
you’ll use the
supplied “banana” plugs
that look like
this:
Final connection should look like this:
Since the light bulbs have no polarity, all one has to do
is splice into the wires, one doesn’t need to worry about
which wire is positive or negative.
To ensure an appropriate connection, please use the
supplied
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10
Light Box Wiring (Generation V)
Above and below is information about how to install a
Generation V
kit. It requires no
pre-assembly but
requires a different technique.
The relay (Marked
“A”) contains 4
connections. In
order, they are
A power (yellow)
which connects
to the battery terminal, ground (black) which connects to
a non-painted metallic surface on the body (usually an
existing bolt with a ground already on it), and 2 2-pair wires
used to connect to the bulbs.
Since the bulbs have no polarity, the
2-pair wires that run inside the sheath
can be connected to either side of the
lamp (B), it is a good idea to connect
and then reconnect these leads to each
other to ensure a proper conducting
environment.
Below right is another location mounting point (for those that
don’t want to drill into the body of the car). While this makes
for a less than clean installation, it does eliminate the need to
make additional drill holes into the car. Another drawback
to this install is the
length required
to reach teh
positive terminal
stretches the wire
and may lead to
faulty power later
with wear and
friction.
Upon installing
the relay, the next job is to run the wiring under or in the
cable tray that sits above the engine. This tray is particularly small. You’ll have two options. Remove the sheathing
B
as it enters the tray,
then put the sheathing
back onto the wires
as they exit the tray.
Or, simply tie wrap the
whole sheath to the
bottom of the tray as
shown above and on
the left.
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WIRING EXAMPLES
These are a set of examples of how to wire up the
Daylight Demon Eyes. These are just ideas and are significantly more work (with greater reward).
This is an example of wiring to the direct power source
so that whenever you turn the ignition to the “on” position, the DDEs will turn on.
11
requires two wires - positive and negative) acts as a trigger (for Generation V’s wiring harness and relay) or as a
positive/power connection (for Generation IV).
IT is useful to have a tool, such as the one pictured, or a
multimeter to find out which wire goes with which switch
and decide on the “trigger” of your choosings
GENERATION V POINTS
The blue wire that comes
out of the long 2-pair wiring
sheath (that is closest to the
passenger side on left hand
drive models) is used as a
trigger wire.
When the blue wire is connected to a “trigger” - in this
case the accessory power - it
sends an electrical current
back to the relay signaling
the relay to close the circuit.
When the relay has received
this “close circuit” charge,
it effectively completes the
circuit that allows the power
from the battery to be distributed to the two light boxes.
For Generation V and even Generation IV, you can choose a wire to splice
into based on your preferences. Above
you see the picture of the “tester” that
was used to determine which “hot” wire
was desired for the optimal connection
point. Keep in mind, this connection
point is entirely up to the customer.
Shown above and at left are possible
connection points. Above, the wiring is
spliced into the “accessory power” wire
that remains “hot” for 10 seconds after
the engine is turned off and the ignition
key is removed.
At right, the arrows point to wires that
are simply turned on and off with the
ignition but do not remain on after key
removal.
So far, those are the only two points that
have been explored, with most customesr choosing those. In either case,
the splicing into those (for Generation
V it’s the blue wire, while Generation IV
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WIRING EXAMPLES (cont.)
In this example, we chose the red wire with the yellow stripe because it was the one that allowed the DDEs to remain on as part of the “accessory” power for 10 seconds after the key was removed from the ignition.
Make sure you have a tester, similar to the one in the picture, that will allow the proper location of the wire which
will yeild the desired result. For Generation V, this is the location of the splice for the blue wire that comes out of
the longer wiring loom.
At the left is a guide for how to run the wire to the ECU. Note the way it runs into the wire tray located above the
engine. This tray
has several
snaps that need
to be removed.
There are MANY other ways to wire the system, these include relays, switches, alternative power sources, etc. The
purpose of this guide is not to show you all of those. The purpose is to provide the most popular and easy to install
options.
12
HEADLIGHT RE-INSTALL
Final step to complete the install. When replacing your
headlight, make sure that all the “guides” line up properly. The movement of the headlight will seem difficult
at first, but with careful maneuvering, the headlight will
fall “naturally” into the groove for placement.
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barrel.
10. Upon completing the cut, the fibers will appear
dull or “unfinished.” The fiber should look like it’s
“glazed” and clean. See picture below for details.
To accomplish this it’s necessary to use a razor blade,
exacto knife, or the preferred method: a cigar cutter.
The best way to do it is to maintain alighnment with the
middle section of the back of the light where the rear
screw attaches.
Some Key Tips
1. When screwing the inside grill
and rear bolts, use an extending magnet like the one shown
on the right.
2. Do not attempt to force the
bolts into the openings, if they
do not easily screw in, then you
ahve an alignment issue.
3. In order to insure proper headlight aiming (exactly
as it was prior to headlight removal), ensure that the
bolts are screwed onto the exact same “markings”
that they left at the time of their removal.
4. You may need to unscrew the bolt next to the grill
prior to complete installation to ensure that your
lower trim piece is more easily re-installed.
5. The lower trim piece, under the headlight, is remarkably sturdy, and will withstand significant force to
replace. While not “unbreakable” it is capable of
withstanding a firm pressure to reseat the clamps.
6. The three pronged final clip of the lower trim piece
that inserts into the headlight slot closest to the grill
is a delicate piece. Ensure that it’s 3 prongs are
all positioned inside the slot, otherwise, one of the
prongs will break off. This in and of itself is not bad,
but may cause alignment issues in the future.
7. If all the trim piece clips are in place, you can give
the trim piece a firm, but not aggressive push to
“seat” the clamps.
11. Once the fiber is cut, make sure the bulb is not
turned on yet, insert the fiber all the way into the
barrel until it touches the lamp. At this point, firmly
grasp the fiber just in front of the barrel, and tie wrap
it firmly THIS IS NOT NECESSARY FOR GENERATION V.
12. Upon completing that tie-wrap, remove the fiber
1/2” from it’s fully inserted position inside the barrel.
Slide the sheath over the fiber, onto the barrel at this
point, and tie wrap the sheath onto the barrel. This
will prevent any fiber burning or charring.
13. Finally, you’re ready to test the application. See next
page for results.
GENERATION V TIPS
14. When connecting the wires to the light boxes, connect and reconnect them once or twice. This insures
that any manufacturing oil or residue is “rubbed” off
and will lead to better conductivity.
15. When running the wire loom across the engine bay,
the wiring tray above the engine may not contain
sufficient room for the whole sheath to fit into it. In
this case, you can remove the undertray and drill a
hole into it. This hole will serve as a tie wrap point to
hold the wiring loom to the wiring tray.
8. Because at this point the fibers are “dangling”
behind the headlight, they have been in contact
16. It may be required to drill or cut away little openings
with a variety of engine bay parts. While it is good
in the rubber seals that cover the two firewalls that
to keep your engine bay clean, it may not be so at
protect the steering system openings (on opposite
time of installation. This is NOT an issue with the fiber
sides of the car) from the engine. These holes will
as you will be trimming it anyway. Moreover, the
not affect the sealing properties and should be used
fiber is covered with a teflon sheath, so it’s unlikely to
as “wireways” or “cable right of ways” for the wiring
be damaged.
to run through the engine inconspicuously.
9. When cutting the fiber, it is advised to use something
extremely sharp and perform the cut quickly. It’s a
good idea to have the vinyl sheath around the fibers
at this time to ensure that the fiber and sheath are
OTHER TIPS COMING SOON
cut to the same distance. The cut should do three
things: a) trim excess fiber that is not necessary b)
trim the fiber strands to the same length regardless
of radius of bend of the outer or inner strands and c)
allow for the proper placement of the fibers into the
13
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EXAMPLES
Thanks to Cabby, John V, Malladawg, MacFly, and Kevin Tang for contributing the following pictures:
The End
f
14

E46 Install Guide Standard/Xenon/BiXenon

Transcription

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Table of Contents E46 DRIVER INFORMATION