Chameleon Care and Husbandry
Transcription
Chameleon Care and Husbandry
VCA WEST LOS ANGELES ANIMAL HOSPITAL AVIAN AND EXOTICS PET CARE LIBRARY There are 150 species of chameleon and nearly half of those are found in Madagascar. Body size varies from approximately 1.3 to 27 inches. Due to specialized pigment cells, some chameleon species can change color. This color change can reflect courtship or territorial displays, defense (camouflage), or aid in thermoregulation in some species. Their unique eye structure enables them to focus on objects independently of each other, as they can rotate their eyes independently of one another. The most common chameleons kept as pets are the Veiled, Panther, and Jackson’s Chameleons. From top left, clockwise: Pygmy leaf chameleon; Meller's chameleon Giant One-horned chameleon; Panther chameleon; Four-horned chameleon; Panther chameleon; Mt. Meru Jackson’s chameleon Chameleon Care and Husbandry Housing/Enclosure Ideal housing for adult chameleons includes plastic-coated, wire mesh walls (½” x ½” mesh) with wood or metal framing. It is not recommended to house chameleons in glass aquariums because the ventilation is inadequate, and solitary animals may become stressed if their reflections are visible in the glass. The cage bottom should not contain any substrate, as feeding behaviors of chameleons predisposes them to ingesting substrate with prey items. This can lead to gastrointestinal impactions, which can result in death. The floor of the enclosure can be lined with butcher’s paper, newspaper, indoor/outdoor carpeting, or Astroturf if desired. Several plants and climbing substrates (like natural branches) should be provided in the enclosure. Chameleons are arboreal lizards, meaning they spend much of their time in trees/plants. Lighting/Heat/Humidity Chameleons require a basking area and a non-basking area with a temperature gradient between the two. Ideal temperatures for each region vary by species; the ideal ranges for the three most common pet chameleon species are listed in the table on the next page. A example of color change in a 4-year-old Panther chameleon. To achieve a temperature gradient, two temperature gauges should be placed in the enclosure, one near the basking area and one in the non-basking area. The basking area should include a broad-spectrum UV heating lamp (such as a mercury vapor bulb) situated approximately 12” away from where the chameleon would bask. Keep in mind that broad-spectrum UV lighting bulbs are only effective for 4-6 months. It is very important to have a UV meter in place. The bulb will continue to give off light and heat, but will not emit UV. Also make sure there is no glass or plastic between the bulb and the chameleon, as these can prohibit the transmission of UV light. Continued on page 2 1900 S. Sepulveda Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90025 | Ph 310.473.2951 | vcawlaspecialty.com | Page 2 Chameleon Care and Husbandry Lighting/Heat/Humidity (continued) Ideal basking and non-basking temperatures for common species of pet chameleons are as follows: Species Basking Area Temperature Non-Basking Area Temperature Night time Temperature Veiled 90-95ºF 70-85ºF 60-65ºF Panther 90-95ºF 75-90ºF 65-70ºF Jackson’s 82-85ºF 70-80ºF 70-75ºF Chameleons require humidity between 40-60%. A humidity gauge should be placed in the enclosure to ensure the humidity is maintained. Open-air cages like the wire-mesh enclosures recommended for chameleons can be challenging to keep humid, but frequent misting (or placement of an automatic misting system), live plants, and placement of moistened sorghum mosses can help. Using an automatic/greenhouse misting system is also an effective way to increase the humidity in the enclosure. Diet/Water Requirements Feeding and hydrating captive chameleons is a challenging task, and they are prone to suffering from dietary insufficiencies and chronic dehydration. Chameleons are insectivores, and they eat a wide variety of insects in the wild. Adult chameleons can be fed three to five times weekly, whereas juveniles should be fed daily. You can offer your chameleon crickets, mealworms, superworms, waxworms, and periodically offer wild insects like grasshoppers, butterflies, or fruit flies (never feed fireflies – they are toxic). Crickets and other insects should be purchased from a pet store or bait store, and should be ‘gut loaded’ for maximized nutritional value (see separate handout). Gut-loaded insects should be dusted with multivitamin powder (including calcium) once per week. A juvenile Panther chameleon (Furcifer pardalis) captures a cricket. Its unique tongue structure enables the chameleon to hit prey at approximately 30 thousands of a second — too fast for the human eye to follow. In the wild, chameleons obtain water by drinking dewdrops or raindrops that collect on leaves and other surfaces. The best way to mimic this and encourage your chameleon to drink is to heavily mist the plants in the enclosure multiple times per day. Alternatively, an automatic misting system can be used. Chameleons don’t generally recognize standing water in dishes as a source for drinking. You can try placing a bubbling system (like an aquarium air stone) in a water dish, or providing constantly flowing water as in a commercially available mini waterfall system. Veterinary Care Because chameleons are difficult to keep healthy, veterinary care is extremely important for them. Yearly examinations and post-purchase examinations are recommended to make sure they do not have preexisting conditions. Veterinary care can help identify internal parasites, metabolic bone disease, infections or reproductive problems. It is normal for chameleons to shed regularly to replace outer skin layers, especially during growth phases. Juveniles, such as the one in the photo (right), will shed every few weeks because they are growing rapidly. Adults shed approximately every 4 months to replace their outer skin layers. It can take weeks for the whole process to complete. It is important to maintain proper humidity levels in your chameleon’s enclosure to help ensure problem-free skin shedding. Demonstrating independent eye movement, a baby Veiled chameleon sheds his skin. If you have any questions or concerns about your pet lizard or would like to schedule an appointment for your pet, please call VCA West Los Angeles Animal Hospital at 310-473-2951.
Similar documents
Spiny Tail Lizard - VCA Animal Hospitals
one side of the cage. This should be least 12” away from where the lizard would bask. Two temperature gauges should be placed in the enclosure, one near the basking area and one in the non-basking ...
More information