InStRUCtIOn MAnUAL
Transcription
InStRUCtIOn MAnUAL
Instruction Manual Model: Jana, Natural Level 3 | Base Colour: True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme – Level 4 Cherry Chocolate (4MG) | Highlight Colour: Blazing Highlighting & Color System – Chestnut • The reflection of a translucent with the coverage of an opaque opaque colour translucent colour opalescent colour • Low ammonia permanent and demi-permanent haircolour system • Provides beautiful colour selection and expert gray coverage • Mixes easily to a beautiful, creamy consistency • Self-Tour — taking the colorist to the next level ® • PBX helps protect the colour molecule and the True Integrity of hair while providing deeper penetration of colour for radiant, shiny results ® • Nutrient-rich botanical blend — orange flower, orange oil, panthenol, vitamin E, sunflower and aloe for beautiful, rich tones and silky hair • Inventory options — stock all tubes for easy colour selection or stock selected colours for reduced inventory and mixing options • All ranges of haircolour are calibrated at every level for accuracy in mixing and are true to level, true to shade TABLE of CONTENTS True Integrity® Opalescent Colour Creme 5Technology 6Inventory Options and Components Colour Identification System 7 8 9 10 Colour Identification System Colour Wheel Colour Creme Series, Levels and Bases Colour Swatches Pure Oxi Creme Developers ® 12 Pure Oxi Creme Developers 13 Developer Selection Chart – Mixing Ratio Guide Scruples’ Self-Tour® of Haircolour 14 15 16 Self-Tour Defined – Characteristics – Principles of Light and Dark Shades Face Shapes and Colour Placement Skin Tone and Eye Colour – Personality – Hair Analysis Procedure Model: Karen, Natural Level 7 | Base Colour: True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme – Level 7 Brilliant Copper (7CC) 17 Colour Procedure 18 Gray Coverage 20Intensifiers 21Pastel Toners and Sheer Coverage Options 22 Ultra Light Blondes 23 Repigmentation Procedure THe Technology Scruples Protective Barrier Complex (PBX®) is a blend of essential ingredients that help protect the colour molecule and provide deeper penetration of colour for radiant results. Included in the complex are ingredients that moisturize and strengthen hair, providing environmental protection and preventing colour from fading while adding incredible shine. PBX ensures the True Integrity of hair. PBX® surrounds and protects the colour molecule. PBX® delivers the colour molecule deep into hair with precise depth and coverage, ensuring haircolour longevity. Scruples’ nutrient-rich botanical blend beautifully conditions hair with healthy, shiny results. Scruples’ nutrient-rich botanical blend includes a combination of pure botanical extracts and vitamins that enhance the condition, shine and brilliance of hair: ◊ Orange flower extract and orange oil – condition and add sheen ◊ Panthenol (pro-vitamin B) – helps renew and repair dehydrated, damaged hair ◊ Vitamin E (antioxidant) – helps stop the oxidation process, reduces colour fading, and strengthens and conditions hair ◊ Sunflower – provides ultraviolet (UV) protection and soothes the scalp ◊ Aloe – moisturizes and helps heal the cuticle layer 5 6 Inventory Options TRue INTEGRITY COMPLETE Inventory all 65 shades available: • Selection includes 11 series of 59 shades plus 2 Ultra Light Blonde shades and 4 Intensifiers • Colour selection is easy with no mixing required TRue INTEGRITY Mixing A reduced inventory option: • The salon inventories 42 of the 65 shades available • Option of carrying 1A, 4 Intensifiers and 2 Ultra Light Blonde shades • Formulas for 22 additional shades provided • Mixing option always delivers true to level, true to shade results Whether you choose to inventory all shades or select shades for mixing options, True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme is calibrated at every level for accuracy when mixing between shades within a series. All series colours are intermixable for unlimited haircolour creativity. COMPONENTS • The True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Swatch Book showcases the vast array of haircolour series and shades available • The True Integrity Instruction Manual provides the most complete and detailed instructions on how to use True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme • The True Integrity Performance (TIP) Guide is a conveniently sized tool that has condensed information on the use of True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme • The True Integrity Quick Reference Wall Chart displays printed colour swatches of the 11 series, 4 Intensifiers, 4 Pastel Toner formulas and 3 Ultra Light Blonde haircolour shades colour identification system GOLD Primary Shade Reflection Example: Mocha 5GV VIOLET Secondary Shade Reflection LEVEL 5 International Level System • The Colour Identification System is used to determine the level of a colour and the primary and secondary shades in the haircolour series •The International Level System identifies the level by using a number to represent the depth of a shade ranging from levels 1 – 10 • The Shade System identifies the shade by using a letter for easy identification; if a shade has more than one letter, the first letter represents the primary shade reflected and the second letter represents the secondary shade reflected 7 8 Colour wheel COLOUR WHEEL The Colour Wheel identifies shades by using a letter for easy haircolour selection; this provides a visual of the haircolour shade within the theory of a colour wheel. • Corrective colour: select a haircolour shade directly across the colour wheel from the shade you want to neutralize (e.g. selecting a shade that contains copper or red neutralizes hair that is ash or green) • Haircolour enhancement: enhance a client’s haircolour by selecting a haircolour shade that compliments or contrasts — To compliment, select a haircolour shade that is 1 – 2 shades to the right or left of the client’s desired haircolour on the colour wheel — To contrast, select a haircolour shade that is directly across from the client’s desired haircolour or that is 1 – 2 shades to the left or right of the contrasting shade on the colour wheel Colour Creme Series, Levels and Bases True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme has 5 natural series, 6 fashion series, 4 Intensifiers and 2 Ultra Light Blonde shades for a total of 65 fabulous shade selections. Custom blend a formula by mixing from 2 or more different series or by adding an Intensifier. Fashion Natural True Integrity OPALESCENT COLOUR CREME CHART Series Levels Base Neutral 1N, 2N, 3N, 4N, 5N, 6N, 7N, 8N, 9N, 10N N = Blue/Yellow/Red Neutral Warm 4NW, 5NW, 6NW, 7NW, 8NW, 9NW NW = Blue/Yellow/Yellow/Red Ash 1A, 5A, 6A, 7A, 8A, 9A, 10A 1A = Blue; 5A – 10A = Green Gold 4G, 5G, 6G, 7G, 8G, 9G, 10G G = Yellow Beige 6AG, 7AG, 8AG, 9AG AG = Green/Yellow Mocha 5GV, 6GV, 7GV, 8GV GV = Yellow/Violet Cherry Chocolate 4MG, 5MG, 6MG, 7MG, 8MG MG = Red Violet/Yellow Copper 4C, 5C, 6C, 7C, 8C C = Orange Brilliant Copper 6CC, 7CC, 8CC CC = Orange/Orange Radiant Red 4RR, 5RR, 6RR, 7RR, 8RR RR = Red/Red Merlot 3RM, 4RM, 5RM RM = Red/Red Violet Ultra Light Blonde UL-N, UL-A UL-N = Blue/Yellow/Red UL-A = Blue/Violet Intensifier Yellow, Red, Red Violet, Graphite Y = Yellow R = Red RV = Red Violet G = Blue Green 9 10 true integrity colour swatches 6AG Dark Ash Gold Blonde 7AG Medium Ash Gold Blonde 5GV Golden Violet Brown 6GV Dark Gold Violet Blonde 1 /2 5GV + 1/2 7GV true integrity colour swatches Red Violet Graphite 11 12 P ure O xi ® Creme Developers Pure Oxi Creme Developers are fully stabilized to provide long-lasting potency and ensure optimal haircolour results. Pure Oxi Creme Developers mix easily with True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme for a smooth, creamy consistency. There are 5 creme developer strengths available: 10C, 20C, 30C, 40C and Demi-Permanent. Scruples Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer contains a revolutionary pH adjuster that neutralizes the ammonia content in the haircolour and transforms the mixture into a deposit-only haircolour. The colour lasts 4 – 6 weeks and gradually fades from the hair. It is ideal for blending gray or creating natural results when introducing haircolour to clients. When colour balancing the ends during the last 5 – 10 minutes of the processing cycle, remix the formula 1 level lighter with Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer for maximum tonal deposit. When using Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer, select a shade 1 level lighter than the desired level. The haircolour mixture becomes a deposit-only colour and will process 1 level darker than the desired shade. Pure Oxi AMMONIA CONTENT True Integrity Colour Creme Levels Ammonia Content 1 2 3–6 7 – 10 Ultra Light Blondes Intensifiers 1.05 1.15 1.5 2 3 1 Ammonia Content mixed with 10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume Developer .42 .46 .6 .8 1.2 .4 Ammonia Content mixed with Demi-Permanent Developer .13 .14 .18 .24 ––– .12 P ure O xi ® Creme Developers Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart Developer Selection Demi-Permanent (1.9%) 10 Volume (3%) 20 Volume (6%) 30 Volume (9%) 40 Volume (12%) 40 Volume (12%) Desired Results natural results and blending gray tone on tone or darker and gray coverage 1 – 2 levels of lift 2 – 3 levels of lift 3 – 4 levels of lift Ultra Light Blondes Processing Time 20 – 30 minutes 30 minutes 35 minutes 40 minutes 45 – 50 minutes 30 – 45 minutes All developers can process with heat. Using heat reduces processing time and provides deeper haircolour deposit. A strand test is recommended. Mixing ratio guide (1 : 1.5) True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme : Pure Oxi Creme Developers OUNCES GRAMS 1 Part True Integrity 1.5 Parts Pure Oxi 1 Part True Integrity 1.5 Parts Pure Oxi /4 oz 1 /2 oz 3 /4 oz 1 oz 1 1/2 oz 2 oz /8 oz /4 oz 1 1/8 oz 1 1/2 oz 2 1/4 oz 3 oz 8g 15 g 22 g 30 g 45 g 60 g 12 g 22 g 34 g 45 g 68 g 90 g 1 3 3 13 14 S elf -T our ® of Haircolour S elf -Tour of Haircolour ® Self: a person, identity, personality, quality or characteristic Tour: a journey, to explore, a path or discovery Self-Tour® is a journey the artist takes with the client to explore client identity, personality and key characteristics that pertain to creating the perfect colour service. The customization of haircolour is a path that only the artist can explore with their client. The areas discovered through the Self-Tour® process include: • Face shape • Skin tone and eye colour •Personality • Hair analysis Principles of Light and Dark Shades Identifying the face shape helps determine colour placement and the effects it will create. Keep in mind the principles of light and dark shades: • Light shades extend or maximize, drawing the eye to an area • Dark shades recede or minimize, diminishing focus on an area S elf -T our ® of Haircolour Face Shape as it relates to Colour Placement Colour can visually adjust and change face shape. Oval • All combinations of light and dark shade placement Round • Lighter shades in the fringe and crown add height • Lighter shades below the jaw add length • Darker shades on the sides narrow the face Triangle–Up • Lighter shades on the fringe and temple areas add width • Darker shades on the sides from the temple to the perimeter narrow the face Triangle–Down • Lighter shades on the crown add height • Darker shades on the fringe and temple narrow width • Lighter shades on the sides from the temple to the perimeter widen the face Square • Lighter shades on the fringe and crown add height and length • Darker shades on the sides narrow width Rectangle • Lighter shades on the sides add width • Darker shades on the fringe, crown and jaw line soften the length of the face 15 16 S elf -T our ® of Haircolour Skin Tone and Eye Colour Self-Tour® includes assessing the skin tone and eye colour of the client. Categorizing the skin tone and eye colour as warm, cool or neutral provides clues to the True Integrity series that best suits the client. Skin Tone and Eye Colour Series Options Warm Neutral Warm, Gold, Mocha, Copper, Brilliant Copper, Cherry Chocolate Cool Neutral, Ash, Beige, Mocha, Cherry Chocolate, Radiant Red, Merlot Neutral all series The 3 principles of haircolour selection will determine the series and shade level: •The haircolour series and shade should compliment the skin tone •The haircolour level should contrast the skin tone; select one or more levels lighter or darker than the skin •The haircolour can contrast or compliment the eye colour NOTE: extremely light or dark haircolour on fine hair can exaggerate sparse or thin hair. Client Personality The client’s personality will not determine the haircolour selection but rather the haircolour placement. The haircolour technique itself has a personality. • Understated — monochromatic haircolour selection with subtle, blended application • Overstated — multiple contrasting colours with bold haircolour techniques • Somewhere in-between — haircolour selection within the recommended series and a contrasting colour with distinct haircolour application Hair Analysis The characteristics of hair density (thin or thick), physical texture (curly or smooth), chemical texture (porosity) and current style affect the haircolour selection: • Use haircolour to add texture, dimension and contour to the cut • Combinations of light and dark shades create movement and dimension • Use haircolour to emphasize facial features Colour Procedure True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Procedure 1. Self-Tour: reveal the client’s personal characteristics by observing their face shape, skin tone, eye colour and personality as well as analyzing their hair. From the Self-Tour discovery, recommend the series (warm, cool or neutral; page 16) and level (lightness/darkness) that best suits the client. The True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Swatch Book provides the client with a beautiful visual of the series and level options recommended. 2. Determine the client’s natural level and percentage of gray: utilize the True Integrity Performance (TIP) Guide. Refer to the Gray Coverage Procedure (page 18) if the hair is 25 – 100% gray. 3. Select the desired series and shade level: refer to the True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Swatch Book or Colour Swatches (page 10 and 11). 4. Select the volume of developer: refer to the Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart to determine desired result. Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart Developer Selection Desired Results Processing Time Demi-Permanent (1.9%) natural results and blending gray 20 – 30 minutes 10 Volume (3%) tone on tone or darker and gray coverage* 30 minutes 20 Volume (6%) 1 – 2 levels of lift 35 minutes 30 Volume (9%) 2 – 3 levels of lift 40 minutes 40 Volume (12%) 3 – 4 levels of lift 45 – 50 minutes 40 Volume (12%) Ultra Light Blondes 30 – 45 minutes *Always use Pure Oxi 10 Volume Creme Developer for superior gray coverage when no lift is desired. Use Pure Oxi 20, 30 or 40 Volume Creme Developer if lift is desired. Gray hair at levels 8, 9 and 10 should process with heat for 30 minutes with a 5-minute cool down for optimal haircolour deposit. All developers can process with heat. Using heat reduces processing time and provides deeper haircolour deposit. A strand test is recommended. 5. Mixing Ratio: 1 : 1.5 (1 part Colour Creme to 1.5 parts Pure Oxi Creme Developer). Measure 1 oz/30 g Colour Creme and 1.5 oz/45 g Pure Oxi Creme Developer. Refer to the Mixing Ratio Guide (page 13). 6. Apply: using a bowl and brush, apply to unwashed, dry hair. To ensure thorough saturation, apply a generous amount of the haircolour mixture. Use a virgin or retouch application procedure. 7. Processing: refer to the Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart for processing times. Gray hair at levels 8, 9 and 10 should process with heat for 30 minutes with a 5-minute cool down for optimal haircolour deposit. Levels 7 and darker can process with or without heat. All developers can be processed with heat. Processing with heat provides a deeper deposit of colour and reduces processing time. A strand test is recommended. 8. Colour balance the ends: as needed during the last 5 – 10 minutes of the processing cycle. If the original haircolour mixture uses Pure Oxi 20, 30 or 40 Volume Creme Developer, remix the formula with Pure Oxi 10 Volume Creme or Demi-Permanent Creme Developer (select shade 1 level lighter) for maximum tonal deposit. 9. Removal: shampoo twice with White Tea Sulfate Free Restorative Shampoo. Apply Scruples NO H2O2 (No Peroxide) to adjust the hair’s pH, remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, and seal in condition and shine. Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and rinse. Massage hair with White Tea Restorative Conditioner from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse. 17 18 Gray Coverage Gray Coverage Procedure 1. Self-Tour: from the Self-Tour discovery, recommend the series (warm, cool or neutral; page 16) and level that best suits the client. 2. Determine the client’s percentage of gray Percentage of Gray Desired Shade Addition of N, NW or G 0 – 25% gray 100% desired shade ––– 25 – 100% gray N, NW or G ––– 25 – 100% gray 75% desired shade 25% N, NW or G at the same level GRAY HAIR at levels 8, 9 and 10 75% desired shade 25% N, NW or G at level 7* *Gray hair at levels 8, 9 and 10 requires additional level 7 N, NW or G to provide complete gray coverage. Process with heat for 30 minutes with a 5-minute cool down for optimal haircolour deposit. 3. Neutral, Neutral Warm or Gold adjustment results: • Add N to a shade that is cool or if no additional warmth is desired • Add NW to a shade when a slight amount of warmth is desired • Add G to a shade when gold will enhance the selected colour Series N (cool) NW (warm) G (gold) Neutral X X X Neutral Warm ––– X X Ash X ––– ––– Gold X X ––– Beige X ––– ––– Mocha X X ––– Cherry Chocolate X X X Copper ––– X X Brilliant Copper ––– X X Radiant Red X X ––– Merlot X X ––– Gray Coverage GRAY COVERAGE MIXING PROPORTIONS 75% Desired Shade 25% N, NW or G 75% 25% Total 75% 25% Total 75% /8 oz /8 oz 1 /2 oz 1 /2 oz 1 /4 oz 3 /4 oz 3 /4 oz 3 12 g 1 4g 16 g 16 g 6g 22 g 22 g /4 oz 8g Total 1 oz 30 g 75% 1 1 /8 oz 34 g /8 oz 12 g Total 1 /2 oz 46 g 75% 1 1 /2 oz 44 g 25% 25% 1 3 1 25% 1 /2 oz 16 g Total 2 oz 60 g 4. Gray coverge mixing proportions: if adjusting the desired shade is necessary, measure 75% of the desired shade and 25% of the N, NW or G shade at the same level as the desired haircolour shade. 5. Mixing ratio: 1 : 1.5 (1 part Colour Creme to 1.5 parts Pure Oxi Creme Developer). Measure 0.75 oz/22 g desired shade : 0.25 oz/8 g N or NW : 1.5 oz/45 g Pure Oxi Creme Developer. Refer to the Mixing Ratio Guide (page 13). 6. Developer selection: always use Pure Oxi 10 Volume Creme Developer for gray coverage when the hair is more than 25% gray or if the desired shade is the same natural level or darker. When gray coverage requires lift use Pure Oxi 20, 30 or 40 Volume Creme Developer. Refer to Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart (page 17). 7. Apply to unwashed, dry hair: use a virgin or retouch application procedure. Apply a generous amount of haircolour mixture to ensure thorough saturation. 8. Processing: refer to the Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart (page 17) for recommended processing times. NOTE: for resistant gray hair, process with heat to provide deeper haircolour deposit and maximum gray coverage. 9. Colour balancing gray coverage: refresh the ends as needed during the last 5 – 10 minutes of the processing cycle. If the haircolour formula was mixed with Pure Oxi 20, 30 or 40 Volume Creme Developer, remix the formula with Pure Oxi 10 Volume or Demi-Permanent Creme Developer (select shade 1 level lighter) for maximum tonal deposit. NOTE: formulas that have additional N, NW or G require remixing the desired formula without N, NW or G. If the formula with the additional shade is applied to the ends, it may produce drab results on hair that already contains permanent haircolour. 10. Removal: shampoo twice with White Tea Sulfate Free Restorative Shampoo. Apply Scruples NO H2O2 (No Peroxide) to adjust the hair’s pH, remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, and seal in condition and shine. Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and rinse. Massage hair with White Tea Restorative Conditioner from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse. 19 20 Intensifiers INTENSIFIERS True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Intensifiers are used to enhance selected series or correct undesirable tones in hair. Intensifiers should never exceed 10 – 25% of a haircolour formula. The chart below indicates which Intensifier is best suited for each series. Use Yellow to intensify gold tones and add brightness, Red to intensify orange and red tones, Red Violet to intensify red and red violet tones and Graphite to cancel unwanted red, orange and gold tones in hair. Adding an Intensifier to a formula does not require additional developer. Simply mix the colour creme and selected developer using a 1 : 1.5 mixing ratio; then add the selected Intensifier. INTENSIFIER CHART Intensifier Enhance Neutralize Yellow up to 25% of haircolour formula Neutral, Neutral Warm, Gold, Mocha, Copper and Brilliant Copper --- Red up to 25% of haircolour formula Mocha, Cherry Chocolate, Copper, Brilliant Copper, Radiant Red and Merlot --- Red Violet up to 25% of haircolour formula Mocha, Cherry Chocolate, Radiant Red and Merlot --- --- Neutral, Ash and Beige levels 1 – 7 Graphite • levels 1 – 5 up to 25% of haircolour formula • levels 6 – 7 up to 10% of haircolour formula (not recommended for levels 8 or higher) NOTE: Intensifiers should not exceed 25% of a haircolour formula (i.e. 1 oz/30 g Colour Creme : 1.5 oz/45 g Pure Oxi Creme Developer : 0.25 oz/15 g Intensifier). True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Intensifiers are added to a formula to create colour intensity and should NOT be used as 100% of a haircolour formula. Model: Marie, Natural Level 4 | Base Colour: True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme – Level 5 Radiant Red (5RR) + Red Violet Intensifier Pastel Toners and Sheer Coverage Options 21 PASTEL TONERS True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme offers formulas to create Pastel Toners. The selection includes 4 shades: Neutral, Ash, Gold and Mocha. The Pastel Toner formulas require a 1 : 4 mixing ratio (1 part Colour Creme : 4 parts Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer). Measure 1/2 oz/15 g Colour Creme : 2 oz/60 g Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer. This unique mixing ratio creates a toner with a translucent effect on prelightenend hair. The hair has a pastel blonde tone with incredible shine and silky condition. Apply to prelightened, damp hair. Process 5 – 20 minutes; a test strand is recommended. SHEER COVERAGE OPTIONS MIXING RATIO COVERAGE CHART Mixing Ratio Coverage Dye Load Mixing ratios can be adjusted with increased amounts of demi-permanent 1 : 1.5 100% Maximum creme developer to vary the amount of coverage achieved. When the 1:2 75% Intermediate mixing ratio of developer increases beyond the recommended 1.5 parts, 1:3 50% Medium the dye load becomes more sheer. Using a 1 : 1.5 mixing ratio provides 1:4 25% Minimum maximum dye load for complete coverage. By increasing the amount of Use Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer ONLY demi-permanent creme developer used, the dye load is sheered from 100% coverage to 25% coverage. See the Mixing Ratio Coverage Chart (right). Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer is used for sheer coverage options because it won’t create underlying tone in the selected haircolour. Example: a client who is a natural level 4 desires a golden tone in the hair. Use a 1 : 3 mixing ratio for a moderate amount of haircolour deposit. Measure 1/2 oz/16 g 4G and 1 1/2 oz /46 g Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer. The amount of colour deposited on the hair will be 50% more sheer and will add a gold cast to the hair. 22 20 ULTRA LIGHT BLONDES Ultra light blondes Procedure Model: AJ, Natural Level 7 | Base Colour: True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme – Ultra Light Neutral + Low Light: Blazing Low Lights – Brown Sugar 1. Self-Tour: from the Self-Tour discovery, recommend the series (neutral, neutral-ash or ash) that best suits the client. 2. Determine client’s natural level and percentage of gray: utilize the True Integrity Performance (TIP) Guide. If the hair is less than 50% gray and is a level 4 or lighter, Ultra Light Blondes are recommended. Natural levels 4 and 5 will attain 2 – 3 levels of lift. Natural levels 6 or lighter will attain 4 – 5 levels of lift. Ultra Light Blondes are not recommended for hair that is 50% or more gray. Ultra Light Blondes will not lift or lighten previously deposited permanent haircolour. 3. Select the desired Ultra Light Blonde shade: refer to the True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Ultra Light Blonde swatches. 4. Volume of developer: use only Pure Oxi 40 Volume Creme Developer. Refer to the Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart (page 17). 5. Mixing ratio: 1 : 2 for maximum lift (1 part Colour Creme : 2 parts Pure Oxi 40 Volume Creme Developer). Measure 1 oz/30 g Ultra Light Blonde Colour Creme : 2 oz/60 g Pure Oxi 40 Volume Creme Developer. Use a 1 : 1.5 mixing ratio for maximum tonal deposit (1 part Colour Creme : 1.5 parts Pure Oxi 40 Volume Creme Developer). Measure 1 oz/30 g True Integrity Ultra Light Blonde Colour Creme : 1.5 oz/45 g Pure Oxi 40 Volume Creme Developer. 6. Apply: using a bowl and brush, apply to unwashed, dry hair. To ensure thorough saturation, apply a generous amount of haircolour mixture. Use a virgin or retouch application method. 7. Process: 30 – 45 minutes at room temperature. Ultra Light Blondes can process with heat. Using heat reduces the processing time; a strand test is recommended. 8. Colour balance the ends: as needed during the last 5 – 10 minutes of the processing cycle. When colour balancing the ends, select a Pastel Toner formula that best replicates the Ultra Light Blonde shade. NOTE: colour balancing the ends with an Ultra Light Blonde shade is not recommended; the concentration of pigment results in an over-deposit and an off-tone shade. 9. Removal: shampoo twice with White Tea Sulfate Free Restorative Shampoo. Apply Scruples NO H2O2 (No Peroxide) to adjust the hair’s pH, remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, condition and seal in shine. Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and rinse. Massage White Tea Restorative Conditioner from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse. Repigmentation PRocedure REPIGMENTATION PROCEDURE Repigmentation is the process of replacing underlying tone missing in hair that has been lightened. If the desired haircolour level is 3 or more levels darker than the current colourtreated hair, follow the repigmentation procedure. 1. Select the repigmentation formula at the same level as the desired haircolour shade. 2. Mix the selected formula using a 1 : 2 mixing ratio (1 oz/30 g Colour Creme : 2 oz/60 g Pure Oxi Demi–Permanent Creme Developer). If the hair is excessively porous use a 1 : 3 mixing ratio. 3. Apply the haircolour mixture to colourtreated, dry, unwashed hair. 4. Process: 10 – 15 minutes, checking frequently. 5. Shampoo hair: once to remove haircolour. Towel–blot gently and dry hair. 6. Mixing ratio for desired haircolour shade: 1 : 1.5 (1 part Colour Creme : 1.5 parts Pure Oxi Creme Developer). 7. Apply desired haircolour shade: apply a generous amount of haircolour mixture to ensure thorough saturation. 8. Processing: 15 – 30 minutes, checking frequently. 9. Removal: shampoo once with White Tea Sulfate Free Restorative Shampoo. Apply Scruples NO H2O2 (No Peroxide) to adjust the hair’s pH, remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, and seal in condition and shine. Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and rinse. Massage hair with White Tea Restorative Conditioner from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse. REPIGMENTATION FORMULA CHART Desired Colour Level Replacement of Underlying Tone Repigmentation Formula 10, 9 and 8 Lightest–Light Blondes Yellow 9G 7 Medium Blonde Yellow-Orange 50% 8G + 50% 8C 6 Dark Blonde Orange 75% 6C + 25% 7G 5 Brown Red-Orange 6C 4 Medium Brown Red 5C 3 Dark Brown Violet-Red 4RR 2 Darkest Brown Violet 75% 2N + 25% 4RR 1 Black Black-Violet 75% 1N + 25% 4RR NOTE: perform a strand test to determine proper colour selection and timing. 23 Cover Model: Stephanie, Natural Level 4 ALL HAIRCOLOUR USED: True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme | Base Colour: Level 4 Merlot (4RM) Highlight Colour: Level 7 Brilliant Copper (7CC) | Low Light Blend: Level 2 Neutral (2N) + Level 4 Copper (4C) Styled with cocktail of Enforce Extra Firm Sculpting Glaze + Dual Design Gel/Wax Scruples Inc., Dist. | 8231 214th Street West | Minneapolis, MN 55044-9009 office 1.800.457.0016 | technical assistance 1.888.Scruples (727.8753) | www.scrupleshaircare.com printed in USA 728900-1 709