InStRUCtIOn MAnUAL

Transcription

InStRUCtIOn MAnUAL
Instruction Manual
Model: Jana, Natural Level 3 | Base Colour: True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme – Level 4 Cherry Chocolate (4MG) | Highlight Colour: Blazing Highlighting & Color System – Chestnut
• The reflection of a translucent with the coverage of an opaque
opaque colour
translucent colour
opalescent colour
• Low ammonia permanent and demi-permanent haircolour system
• Provides beautiful colour selection and expert gray coverage
• Mixes easily to a beautiful, creamy consistency
• Self-Tour — taking the colorist to the next level
®
• PBX helps protect the colour molecule and the True Integrity of hair while providing deeper penetration
of colour for radiant, shiny results
®
• Nutrient-rich botanical blend — orange flower, orange oil, panthenol, vitamin E, sunflower and aloe
for beautiful, rich tones and silky hair
• Inventory options — stock all tubes for easy colour selection or stock selected colours for reduced
inventory and mixing options
• All ranges of haircolour are calibrated at every level for accuracy in mixing and are true to level, true to shade
TABLE of CONTENTS
True Integrity® Opalescent Colour Creme
5Technology
6Inventory Options and Components
Colour Identification System
7
8
9
10
Colour Identification System
Colour Wheel
Colour Creme Series, Levels and Bases
Colour Swatches
Pure Oxi Creme Developers
®
12 Pure Oxi Creme Developers
13 Developer Selection Chart
– Mixing Ratio Guide
Scruples’ Self-Tour® of Haircolour
14
15
16
Self-Tour Defined
– Characteristics
– Principles of Light and Dark Shades
Face Shapes and Colour Placement
Skin Tone and Eye Colour
– Personality
– Hair Analysis
Procedure
Model: Karen, Natural Level 7 | Base Colour: True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme – Level 7 Brilliant Copper (7CC)
17 Colour Procedure
18 Gray Coverage
20Intensifiers
21Pastel Toners and Sheer Coverage Options
22 Ultra Light Blondes
23 Repigmentation Procedure
THe Technology
Scruples Protective Barrier Complex (PBX®) is a blend of essential ingredients that help protect the colour molecule and
provide deeper penetration of colour for radiant results. Included in the complex are ingredients that moisturize and strengthen
hair, providing environmental protection and preventing colour from fading while adding incredible shine. PBX ensures the True
Integrity of hair.
PBX® surrounds and protects the colour molecule.
PBX® delivers the colour molecule deep into hair with precise depth and
coverage, ensuring haircolour longevity.
Scruples’ nutrient-rich botanical blend beautifully conditions hair with
healthy, shiny results.
Scruples’ nutrient-rich botanical blend includes a combination of pure botanical
extracts and vitamins that enhance the condition, shine and brilliance of hair:
◊ Orange flower extract and orange oil – condition and add sheen
◊ Panthenol (pro-vitamin B) – helps renew and repair dehydrated,
damaged hair
◊ Vitamin E (antioxidant) – helps stop the oxidation process, reduces colour
fading, and strengthens and conditions hair
◊ Sunflower – provides ultraviolet (UV) protection and soothes the scalp
◊ Aloe – moisturizes and helps heal the cuticle layer
5
6
Inventory Options
TRue INTEGRITY COMPLETE
Inventory all 65 shades available:
• Selection includes 11 series of 59 shades plus 2 Ultra Light Blonde shades and 4 Intensifiers
• Colour selection is easy with no mixing required
TRue INTEGRITY Mixing
A reduced inventory option:
• The salon inventories 42 of the 65 shades available
• Option of carrying 1A, 4 Intensifiers and 2 Ultra Light Blonde shades
• Formulas for 22 additional shades provided
• Mixing option always delivers true to level, true to shade results
Whether you choose to inventory all shades or select shades for mixing options, True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme is calibrated at every
level for accuracy when mixing between shades within a series. All series colours are intermixable for unlimited haircolour creativity.
COMPONENTS
• The True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Swatch Book showcases the vast array of haircolour series and shades available
• The True Integrity Instruction Manual provides the most complete and detailed instructions on how to use True Integrity Opalescent
Colour Creme
• The True Integrity Performance (TIP) Guide is a conveniently sized tool that has condensed information on the use of True Integrity
Opalescent Colour Creme
• The True Integrity Quick Reference Wall Chart displays printed colour swatches of the 11 series, 4 Intensifiers, 4 Pastel Toner
formulas and 3 Ultra Light Blonde haircolour shades
colour identification system
GOLD
Primary
Shade Reflection
Example: Mocha 5GV
VIOLET
Secondary Shade Reflection
LEVEL 5
International Level System
• The Colour Identification System is used to determine the level of a colour and the
primary and secondary shades in the haircolour series
•The International Level System identifies the level by using a number to represent the depth of a shade ranging from levels 1 – 10
• The Shade System identifies the shade by using a letter for easy identification;
if a shade has more than one letter, the first letter represents the primary shade
reflected and the second letter represents the secondary shade reflected
7
8
Colour wheel
COLOUR WHEEL
The Colour Wheel identifies shades by using a letter for easy haircolour selection; this provides a visual of the haircolour shade within
the theory of a colour wheel.
• Corrective colour: select a haircolour shade directly across the colour wheel from the shade you want to neutralize
(e.g. selecting a shade that contains copper or red neutralizes hair that is ash or green)
• Haircolour enhancement: enhance a client’s haircolour by selecting a haircolour shade that compliments or contrasts — To compliment, select a haircolour shade that is 1 – 2 shades to the right or left of the client’s desired haircolour on the colour wheel
— To contrast, select a haircolour shade that is directly across from the client’s desired haircolour or that is 1 – 2 shades
to the left or right of the contrasting shade on the colour wheel
Colour Creme Series, Levels and Bases
True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme has 5 natural series, 6 fashion series, 4 Intensifiers and 2 Ultra Light Blonde shades for a
total of 65 fabulous shade selections. Custom blend a formula by mixing from 2 or more different series or by adding an Intensifier.
Fashion Natural
True Integrity OPALESCENT COLOUR CREME CHART
Series
Levels
Base
Neutral
1N, 2N, 3N, 4N, 5N, 6N, 7N, 8N, 9N, 10N
N = Blue/Yellow/Red
Neutral Warm
4NW, 5NW, 6NW, 7NW, 8NW, 9NW
NW = Blue/Yellow/Yellow/Red
Ash
1A, 5A, 6A, 7A, 8A, 9A, 10A
1A = Blue; 5A – 10A = Green
Gold
4G, 5G, 6G, 7G, 8G, 9G, 10G
G = Yellow
Beige
6AG, 7AG, 8AG, 9AG
AG = Green/Yellow
Mocha
5GV, 6GV, 7GV, 8GV
GV = Yellow/Violet
Cherry Chocolate
4MG, 5MG, 6MG, 7MG, 8MG
MG = Red Violet/Yellow
Copper
4C, 5C, 6C, 7C, 8C
C = Orange
Brilliant Copper
6CC, 7CC, 8CC
CC = Orange/Orange
Radiant Red
4RR, 5RR, 6RR, 7RR, 8RR
RR = Red/Red
Merlot
3RM, 4RM, 5RM
RM = Red/Red Violet
Ultra Light Blonde
UL-N, UL-A
UL-N = Blue/Yellow/Red
UL-A = Blue/Violet
Intensifier
Yellow, Red, Red Violet, Graphite
Y = Yellow R = Red
RV = Red Violet G = Blue Green
9
10
true integrity colour swatches
6AG
Dark Ash
Gold Blonde
7AG
Medium Ash
Gold Blonde
5GV
Golden
Violet Brown
6GV
Dark Gold
Violet Blonde
1
/2 5GV + 1/2 7GV
true integrity colour swatches
Red Violet
Graphite
11
12
P ure O xi ® Creme Developers
Pure Oxi Creme Developers are fully stabilized to provide long-lasting potency and ensure optimal haircolour results. Pure Oxi
Creme Developers mix easily with True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme for a smooth, creamy consistency.
There are 5 creme developer strengths available: 10C, 20C, 30C, 40C and Demi-Permanent.
Scruples Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer contains a revolutionary pH adjuster that neutralizes the ammonia content
in the haircolour and transforms the mixture into a deposit-only haircolour. The colour lasts 4 – 6 weeks and gradually fades from
the hair. It is ideal for blending gray or creating natural results when introducing haircolour to clients. When colour balancing the
ends during the last 5 – 10 minutes of the processing cycle, remix the formula 1 level lighter with Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme
Developer for maximum tonal deposit.
When using Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer, select a shade 1 level lighter than the desired level.
The haircolour mixture becomes a deposit-only colour and will process 1 level darker than the desired shade.
Pure Oxi AMMONIA CONTENT
True Integrity
Colour Creme Levels
Ammonia Content
1
2
3–6
7 – 10
Ultra Light Blondes
Intensifiers
1.05
1.15
1.5
2
3
1
Ammonia Content mixed
with 10, 20, 30 or 40
Volume Developer
.42
.46
.6
.8
1.2
.4
Ammonia Content
mixed with
Demi-Permanent Developer
.13
.14
.18
.24
–––
.12
P ure O xi ® Creme Developers
Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart
Developer Selection
Demi-Permanent (1.9%)
10 Volume (3%)
20 Volume (6%)
30 Volume (9%)
40 Volume (12%)
40 Volume (12%)
Desired Results
natural results and blending gray
tone on tone or darker
and gray coverage
1 – 2 levels of lift
2 – 3 levels of lift
3 – 4 levels of lift
Ultra Light Blondes
Processing Time
20 – 30 minutes
30 minutes
35 minutes
40 minutes
45 – 50 minutes
30 – 45 minutes
All developers can process with heat. Using heat reduces processing time and provides deeper haircolour deposit. A strand test is recommended.
Mixing ratio guide (1 : 1.5)
True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme : Pure Oxi Creme Developers
OUNCES
GRAMS
1 Part
True Integrity
1.5 Parts
Pure Oxi
1 Part
True Integrity
1.5 Parts
Pure Oxi
/4 oz
1
/2 oz
3
/4 oz
1 oz
1 1/2 oz
2 oz
/8 oz
/4 oz
1 1/8 oz
1 1/2 oz
2 1/4 oz
3 oz
8g
15 g
22 g
30 g
45 g
60 g
12 g
22 g
34 g
45 g
68 g
90 g
1
3
3
13
14
S elf -T our ® of Haircolour
S elf -Tour of Haircolour
®
Self: a person, identity, personality, quality or characteristic
Tour: a journey, to explore, a path or discovery
Self-Tour® is a journey the artist takes with the client to explore client identity, personality and key characteristics that pertain to
creating the perfect colour service. The customization of haircolour is a path that only the artist can explore with their client.
The areas discovered through the Self-Tour® process include:
• Face shape
• Skin tone and eye colour
•Personality
• Hair analysis
Principles of Light and Dark Shades
Identifying the face shape helps determine colour placement and the effects it will create. Keep in mind the principles of light and
dark shades:
• Light shades extend or maximize, drawing the eye to an area
• Dark shades recede or minimize, diminishing focus on an area
S elf -T our ® of Haircolour
Face Shape as it relates to Colour Placement
Colour can visually adjust and change face shape.
Oval
• All combinations of light and dark shade placement
Round
• Lighter shades in the fringe and crown add height
• Lighter shades below the jaw add length
• Darker shades on the sides narrow the face
Triangle–Up
• Lighter shades on the fringe and temple areas add width
• Darker shades on the sides from the temple to the perimeter narrow the face
Triangle–Down
• Lighter shades on the crown add height
• Darker shades on the fringe and temple narrow width
• Lighter shades on the sides from the temple to the perimeter widen the face
Square
• Lighter shades on the fringe and crown add height and length
• Darker shades on the sides narrow width
Rectangle
• Lighter shades on the sides add width
• Darker shades on the fringe, crown and jaw line soften the length of the face
15
16
S elf -T our ® of Haircolour
Skin Tone and Eye Colour
Self-Tour® includes assessing the skin tone and eye colour of the client. Categorizing the skin tone and eye colour as warm, cool or
neutral provides clues to the True Integrity series that best suits the client.
Skin Tone and Eye Colour
Series Options
Warm
Neutral Warm, Gold, Mocha, Copper, Brilliant Copper, Cherry Chocolate
Cool
Neutral, Ash, Beige, Mocha, Cherry Chocolate, Radiant Red, Merlot
Neutral
all series
The 3 principles of haircolour selection will determine the series and shade level:
•The haircolour series and shade should compliment the skin tone
•The haircolour level should contrast the skin tone; select one or more levels lighter or darker than the skin
•The haircolour can contrast or compliment the eye colour
NOTE: extremely light or dark haircolour on fine hair can exaggerate sparse or thin hair.
Client Personality
The client’s personality will not determine the haircolour selection but rather the haircolour placement. The haircolour technique
itself has a personality.
• Understated — monochromatic haircolour selection with subtle, blended application
• Overstated — multiple contrasting colours with bold haircolour techniques
• Somewhere in-between — haircolour selection within the recommended series and a contrasting colour with
distinct haircolour application
Hair Analysis
The characteristics of hair density (thin or thick), physical texture (curly or smooth), chemical texture (porosity) and current style
affect the haircolour selection:
• Use haircolour to add texture, dimension and contour to the cut
• Combinations of light and dark shades create movement and dimension
• Use haircolour to emphasize facial features
Colour Procedure
True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Procedure
1. Self-Tour: reveal the client’s personal characteristics by observing their face shape, skin tone, eye colour and personality as well as analyzing
their hair. From the Self-Tour discovery, recommend the series (warm, cool or neutral; page 16) and level (lightness/darkness) that best suits
the client. The True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Swatch Book provides the client with a beautiful visual of the series and level options
recommended.
2. Determine the client’s natural level and percentage of gray: utilize the True Integrity Performance (TIP) Guide. Refer to the Gray Coverage
Procedure (page 18) if the hair is 25 – 100% gray.
3. Select the desired series and shade level: refer to the True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Swatch Book or Colour Swatches (page 10 and 11).
4. Select the volume of developer: refer to the Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart to determine desired result.
Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart
Developer Selection
Desired Results
Processing Time
Demi-Permanent (1.9%)
natural results and blending gray
20 – 30 minutes
10 Volume (3%)
tone on tone or darker and gray coverage*
30 minutes
20 Volume (6%)
1 – 2 levels of lift
35 minutes
30 Volume (9%)
2 – 3 levels of lift
40 minutes
40 Volume (12%)
3 – 4 levels of lift
45 – 50 minutes
40 Volume (12%)
Ultra Light Blondes
30 – 45 minutes
*Always use Pure Oxi 10 Volume Creme Developer for superior gray coverage when no lift is desired. Use Pure Oxi 20, 30 or 40
Volume Creme Developer if lift is desired.
Gray hair at levels 8, 9 and 10 should process with heat for 30 minutes with a 5-minute cool down for optimal haircolour deposit.
All developers can process with heat. Using heat reduces processing time and provides deeper haircolour deposit. A strand test is recommended.
5. Mixing Ratio: 1 : 1.5 (1 part Colour Creme to 1.5 parts Pure Oxi Creme Developer). Measure 1 oz/30 g Colour Creme and 1.5 oz/45 g Pure Oxi
Creme Developer. Refer to the Mixing Ratio Guide (page 13).
6. Apply: using a bowl and brush, apply to unwashed, dry hair. To ensure thorough saturation, apply a generous amount of the haircolour mixture.
Use a virgin or retouch application procedure.
7. Processing: refer to the Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart for processing times. Gray hair at levels 8, 9 and 10 should process with heat for
30 minutes with a 5-minute cool down for optimal haircolour deposit. Levels 7 and darker can process with or without heat. All developers can
be processed with heat. Processing with heat provides a deeper deposit of colour and reduces processing time. A strand test is recommended.
8. Colour balance the ends: as needed during the last 5 – 10 minutes of the processing cycle. If the original haircolour mixture uses Pure Oxi 20,
30 or 40 Volume Creme Developer, remix the formula with Pure Oxi 10 Volume Creme or Demi-Permanent Creme Developer (select shade 1
level lighter) for maximum tonal deposit.
9. Removal: shampoo twice with White Tea Sulfate Free Restorative Shampoo. Apply Scruples NO H2O2 (No Peroxide) to adjust the hair’s pH,
remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, and seal in condition and shine. Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and rinse. Massage hair with White Tea
Restorative Conditioner from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse.
17
18
Gray Coverage
Gray Coverage Procedure
1. Self-Tour: from the Self-Tour discovery, recommend the series (warm, cool or neutral; page 16) and level that best suits the client.
2. Determine the client’s percentage of gray
Percentage of Gray
Desired Shade
Addition of N, NW or G
0 – 25% gray
100% desired shade
–––
25 – 100% gray
N, NW or G
–––
25 – 100% gray
75% desired shade
25% N, NW or G at the same level
GRAY HAIR at levels 8, 9 and 10
75% desired shade
25% N, NW or G at level 7*
*Gray hair at levels 8, 9 and 10 requires additional level 7 N, NW or G to provide complete gray coverage. Process with heat for
30 minutes with a 5-minute cool down for optimal haircolour deposit.
3. Neutral, Neutral Warm or Gold adjustment results:
• Add N to a shade that is cool or if no additional warmth is desired
• Add NW to a shade when a slight amount of warmth is desired
• Add G to a shade when gold will enhance the selected colour
Series
N (cool)
NW (warm)
G (gold)
Neutral
X
X
X
Neutral Warm
–––
X
X
Ash
X
–––
–––
Gold
X
X
–––
Beige
X
–––
–––
Mocha
X
X
–––
Cherry Chocolate
X
X
X
Copper
–––
X
X
Brilliant Copper
–––
X
X
Radiant Red
X
X
–––
Merlot
X
X
–––
Gray Coverage
GRAY COVERAGE MIXING PROPORTIONS
75% Desired Shade
25% N, NW or G
75%
25%
Total
75%
25%
Total
75%
/8 oz
/8 oz
1
/2 oz
1
/2 oz
1
/4 oz
3
/4 oz
3
/4 oz
3
12 g
1
4g
16 g
16 g
6g
22 g
22 g
/4 oz
8g
Total
1 oz
30 g
75%
1
1 /8 oz
34 g
/8 oz
12 g
Total
1 /2 oz
46 g
75%
1
1 /2 oz
44 g
25%
25%
1
3
1
25%
1
/2 oz
16 g
Total
2 oz
60 g
4. Gray coverge mixing proportions: if adjusting the desired shade is
necessary, measure 75% of the desired shade and 25% of the N, NW
or G shade at the same level as the desired haircolour shade.
5. Mixing ratio: 1 : 1.5 (1 part Colour Creme to 1.5 parts Pure Oxi Creme
Developer). Measure 0.75 oz/22 g desired shade : 0.25 oz/8 g N
or NW : 1.5 oz/45 g Pure Oxi Creme Developer. Refer to the Mixing
Ratio Guide (page 13). 6. Developer selection: always use Pure Oxi 10 Volume Creme Developer
for gray coverage when the hair is more than 25% gray or if the desired
shade is the same natural level or darker. When gray coverage requires lift
use Pure Oxi 20, 30 or 40 Volume Creme Developer. Refer to Pure Oxi
Creme Developer Chart (page 17).
7. Apply to unwashed, dry hair: use a virgin or retouch application
procedure. Apply a generous amount of haircolour mixture to ensure
thorough saturation.
8. Processing: refer to the Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart (page 17)
for recommended processing times. NOTE: for resistant gray hair, process with heat to provide deeper haircolour
deposit and maximum gray coverage.
9. Colour balancing gray coverage: refresh the ends as needed during the last 5 – 10 minutes of the processing cycle. If the haircolour
formula was mixed with Pure Oxi 20, 30 or 40 Volume Creme Developer, remix the formula with Pure Oxi 10 Volume or
Demi-Permanent Creme Developer (select shade 1 level lighter) for maximum tonal deposit.
NOTE: formulas that have additional N, NW or G require remixing the desired formula without N, NW or G. If the formula with
the additional shade is applied to the ends, it may produce drab results on hair that already contains permanent haircolour.
10. Removal: shampoo twice with White Tea Sulfate Free Restorative Shampoo. Apply Scruples NO H2O2 (No Peroxide) to
adjust the hair’s pH, remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, and seal in condition and shine. Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and
rinse. Massage hair with White Tea Restorative Conditioner from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse.
19
20
Intensifiers
INTENSIFIERS
True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Intensifiers are used to
enhance selected series or correct undesirable tones in hair. Intensifiers
should never exceed 10 – 25% of a haircolour formula. The chart below
indicates which Intensifier is best suited for each series. Use Yellow to
intensify gold tones and add brightness, Red to intensify orange and red
tones, Red Violet to intensify red and red violet tones and Graphite to
cancel unwanted red, orange and gold tones in hair. Adding an Intensifier
to a formula does not require additional developer. Simply mix the colour
creme and selected developer using a 1 : 1.5 mixing ratio; then add the
selected Intensifier.
INTENSIFIER CHART
Intensifier
Enhance
Neutralize
Yellow up to 25%
of haircolour formula
Neutral, Neutral Warm,
Gold, Mocha, Copper
and Brilliant Copper
---
Red up to 25%
of haircolour formula
Mocha, Cherry Chocolate,
Copper, Brilliant Copper,
Radiant Red and Merlot
---
Red Violet up to 25%
of haircolour formula
Mocha, Cherry Chocolate,
Radiant Red and Merlot
---
---
Neutral, Ash
and Beige
levels 1 – 7
Graphite
• levels 1 – 5 up to 25%
of haircolour formula
• levels 6 – 7 up to 10%
of haircolour formula
(not recommended for
levels 8 or higher)
NOTE: Intensifiers should not exceed 25% of a haircolour formula (i.e. 1 oz/30 g
Colour Creme : 1.5 oz/45 g Pure Oxi Creme Developer : 0.25 oz/15 g Intensifier).
True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme Intensifiers are added to a formula to create
colour intensity and should NOT be used as 100% of a haircolour formula.
Model: Marie, Natural Level 4 | Base Colour: True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme –
Level 5 Radiant Red (5RR) + Red Violet Intensifier
Pastel Toners and Sheer Coverage Options 21
PASTEL TONERS
True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme offers formulas to create Pastel Toners. The selection includes 4 shades: Neutral,
Ash, Gold and Mocha.
The Pastel Toner formulas require a 1 : 4 mixing ratio (1 part Colour Creme : 4 parts Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer).
Measure 1/2 oz/15 g Colour Creme : 2 oz/60 g Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer. This unique mixing ratio creates a toner
with a translucent effect on prelightenend hair. The hair has a pastel blonde tone with incredible shine and silky condition. Apply to
prelightened, damp hair. Process 5 – 20 minutes; a test strand is recommended.
SHEER COVERAGE OPTIONS
MIXING RATIO COVERAGE CHART
Mixing Ratio
Coverage
Dye Load
Mixing ratios can be adjusted with increased amounts of demi-permanent
1 : 1.5
100%
Maximum
creme developer to vary the amount of coverage achieved. When the
1:2
75%
Intermediate
mixing ratio of developer increases beyond the recommended 1.5 parts,
1:3
50%
Medium
the dye load becomes more sheer. Using a 1 : 1.5 mixing ratio provides
1:4
25%
Minimum
maximum dye load for complete coverage. By increasing the amount of
Use Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer ONLY
demi-permanent creme developer used, the dye load is sheered from
100% coverage to 25% coverage. See the Mixing Ratio Coverage Chart (right). Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer is
used for sheer coverage options because it won’t create underlying tone in the selected haircolour.
Example: a client who is a natural level 4 desires a golden tone in the hair. Use a 1 : 3 mixing ratio for a moderate amount of
haircolour deposit. Measure 1/2 oz/16 g 4G and 1 1/2 oz /46 g Pure Oxi Demi-Permanent Creme Developer. The amount of colour
deposited on the hair will be 50% more sheer and will add a gold cast to the hair.
22
20
ULTRA LIGHT BLONDES
Ultra light blondes Procedure
Model: AJ, Natural Level 7 | Base Colour: True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme –
Ultra Light Neutral + Low Light: Blazing Low Lights – Brown Sugar
1. Self-Tour: from the Self-Tour discovery, recommend the series (neutral,
neutral-ash or ash) that best suits the client.
2. Determine client’s natural level and percentage of gray: utilize the True
Integrity Performance (TIP) Guide. If the hair is less than 50% gray and
is a level 4 or lighter, Ultra Light Blondes are recommended. Natural levels
4 and 5 will attain 2 – 3 levels of lift. Natural levels 6 or lighter will attain
4 – 5 levels of lift. Ultra Light Blondes are not recommended for hair that
is 50% or more gray. Ultra Light Blondes will not lift or lighten previously
deposited permanent haircolour.
3. Select the desired Ultra Light Blonde shade: refer to the True Integrity
Opalescent Colour Creme Ultra Light Blonde swatches.
4. Volume of developer: use only Pure Oxi 40 Volume Creme Developer.
Refer to the Pure Oxi Creme Developer Chart (page 17).
5. Mixing ratio: 1 : 2 for maximum lift (1 part Colour Creme : 2 parts Pure
Oxi 40 Volume Creme Developer). Measure 1 oz/30 g Ultra Light Blonde
Colour Creme : 2 oz/60 g Pure Oxi 40 Volume Creme Developer.
Use a 1 : 1.5 mixing ratio for maximum tonal deposit (1 part Colour Creme
: 1.5 parts Pure Oxi 40 Volume Creme Developer). Measure 1 oz/30 g
True Integrity Ultra Light Blonde Colour Creme : 1.5 oz/45 g Pure Oxi
40 Volume Creme Developer.
6. Apply: using a bowl and brush, apply to unwashed, dry hair. To ensure
thorough saturation, apply a generous amount of haircolour mixture. Use a
virgin or retouch application method.
7. Process: 30 – 45 minutes at room temperature. Ultra Light Blondes can
process with heat. Using heat reduces the processing time; a strand test is
recommended.
8. Colour balance the ends: as needed during the last 5 – 10 minutes of
the processing cycle. When colour balancing the ends, select a Pastel Toner
formula that best replicates the Ultra Light Blonde shade.
NOTE: colour balancing the ends with an Ultra Light Blonde shade is not
recommended; the concentration of pigment results in an over-deposit and
an off-tone shade.
9. Removal: shampoo twice with White Tea Sulfate Free Restorative
Shampoo. Apply Scruples NO H2O2 (No Peroxide) to adjust the hair’s pH,
remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, condition and seal in shine. Leave
on 3 – 5 minutes and rinse. Massage White Tea Restorative Conditioner
from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse.
Repigmentation PRocedure
REPIGMENTATION PROCEDURE
Repigmentation is the process of replacing underlying tone missing in hair that has been lightened. If the desired haircolour level is
3 or more levels darker than the current colourtreated hair, follow the repigmentation procedure.
1. Select the repigmentation formula at the same level as the desired haircolour shade.
2. Mix the selected formula using a 1 : 2 mixing ratio (1 oz/30 g Colour Creme : 2 oz/60 g Pure Oxi Demi–Permanent Creme
Developer). If the hair is excessively porous use a 1 : 3 mixing ratio.
3. Apply the haircolour mixture to colourtreated, dry, unwashed hair.
4. Process: 10 – 15 minutes, checking frequently.
5. Shampoo hair: once to remove haircolour. Towel–blot gently and dry hair.
6. Mixing ratio for desired haircolour shade: 1 : 1.5 (1 part Colour Creme : 1.5 parts Pure Oxi Creme Developer).
7. Apply desired haircolour shade: apply a generous amount of haircolour mixture to ensure thorough saturation.
8. Processing: 15 – 30 minutes, checking frequently.
9. Removal: shampoo once with White Tea Sulfate Free Restorative Shampoo. Apply Scruples NO H2O2 (No Peroxide) to
adjust the hair’s pH, remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, and seal in condition and shine. Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and
rinse. Massage hair with White Tea Restorative Conditioner from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse.
REPIGMENTATION FORMULA CHART
Desired Colour Level
Replacement of Underlying Tone
Repigmentation Formula
10, 9 and 8 Lightest–Light Blondes
Yellow
9G
7 Medium Blonde
Yellow-Orange
50% 8G + 50% 8C
6 Dark Blonde
Orange
75% 6C + 25% 7G
5 Brown
Red-Orange
6C
4 Medium Brown
Red
5C
3 Dark Brown
Violet-Red
4RR
2 Darkest Brown
Violet
75% 2N + 25% 4RR
1 Black
Black-Violet
75% 1N + 25% 4RR
NOTE: perform a strand test to determine proper colour selection and timing.
23
Cover Model: Stephanie, Natural Level 4
ALL HAIRCOLOUR USED: True Integrity Opalescent Colour Creme | Base Colour: Level 4 Merlot (4RM)
Highlight Colour: Level 7 Brilliant Copper (7CC) | Low Light Blend: Level 2 Neutral (2N) + Level 4 Copper (4C)
Styled with cocktail of Enforce Extra Firm Sculpting Glaze + Dual Design Gel/Wax
Scruples Inc., Dist. | 8231 214th Street West | Minneapolis, MN 55044-9009
office 1.800.457.0016 | technical assistance 1.888.Scruples (727.8753) | www.scrupleshaircare.com
printed in USA 728900-1 709