Loire and Normandy

Loire and Normandy
The magnificent Loire, one of the last undeveloped rivers of Western Europe,
passes slowly through this region, alongside elegant châteaux and through lush
countryside. On the banks of the Loire’s many beautiful tributaries, there are
secluded spots for relaxing swims and picnics.
164236
Chenonceau
Loire and Normandy
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LAVAL LAVAL
6
a11
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d-309
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Sablé Sablé
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LE MANS
LE MANS
a11
c db c a b172 a 172
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a 166b a c bd c
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ORLÉANS
ORLÉANS
d-917
ANGERS
ANGERS
a-10
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20km 20km
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BLOIS BLOIS
-11
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167
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LochesLoches
a 169 a 169
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ChinonChinon
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Romarantin
Romarantin
-Lanthenay
-Lanthenay
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d-7 Azay Azay
1 -le-Rideau
1 -le-Rideau
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d-960 d-960
CHOLET
CHOLET
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Doué-la-Fontaine
171Doué-la-Fontaine
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Chenonceaux
Chenonceaux
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SaumurSaumur
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Chalonnes
Chalonnes
-sur-Loire
-sur-Loire
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TOURSTOURS
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b c d b a d168 ae 168 e
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Chambord
Chambord a
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LavardinLavardin
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Château-du-Loir
Château-du-Loir
a-28
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Vendôme
Vendôme
Loire and Normandy
164 chenonceau
Few people realise that it’s possible to swim in the river pool upstream
of this exquisite château spanning the river Cher. Admire its architecture
from the water as the sun sets.
165 étang de monperché
A large, dark lake set in the wooded wonderland of the Sologne, on one of
the Loire’s extensive cycleways.
Châtellerault
Châtellerault
166c lavardin
168c château d’ussé
One of the prettiest villages on the Loir, with a superb
open-air restaurant by the river.
You can swim in the Indre near this fairytale castle, but a
more exciting swim is from the sandy banks leading down
to the wild Loire.
167 pont romain
CHÂTEAUROUX
CHÂTEAUROUX
Not quite the Pont du Gard, but this ivy-clad, romantic
ruin down a track is a real find. Beautiful river pools and
an island, too.
173b clécy
A popular weir, with a café, on the river Orne. You can hire
pedalos form the canoe centre upstream.
166
L’Isle Vert
166c
Cher & Loir
164 chenonceau
165 étang de monperché
166 l’isle verte
Magnificent swim on Cher under famous
château. River island with ruin upstream.
Large secluded lake with jetty for jumps
in heart of forest. Dark, peaty water.
Pretty island park for deep, long swims.
From Chisseaux at D40 road bridge
,,
From Thoury (5km E of Château de
,,
(by ! Le Moulin Fort) follow L bank
footpath downstream 700m to wooded
river bays above château. Further
swimming upstream on R bank by island
with ruined castle. Also town beach at
historic Montrichard.
Chambord) take D22 dir Dhuizon. After
2.2km turn R on forest track (also GR de
Pays de Châteaux) and park at end after
3km. Lake is 200m S (across gate, R then
L). Also accessible from Neuvy (Rue de
Thoury).
in Couture-sur-Loir (D10) follow sign to
river. Park and cross wooden bridge.
Montrichard). Park at swimming pool by
town bridges and walk 200m upstream
to find sandy beaches and grassy banks
or continue to weir (47.2711, 1.3783).
Riverside ! Les Cochards 1km E off D17,
and further wonderful wild beaches to
explore on tracks to L to Couffy
(47.2611, 1.4169).
watery Sologne. Turn off D60 1.1km S
of Bauzy (S of Neuvy) on to minor road
(Terres de la Grille/CR22 cycle route)
and find lake on left after 2.3.km
(47.5111, 1.6094).
lat long: 47.3247, 1.0731
walk in: 10 mins, easy
It looked like the Zambezi: the sun low in the sky, sandy
islands glowing golden across the great Loire and flocks of
birds roosting in the high elephant grass. I camped out and
took an evening swim, diving into the warm water from the
sandy bank. Floating out into the gentle flow, I gazed back
towards the edge and half expected a crocodile to slide out of
the undergrowth. In fact, I was just by Château d’Ussé 168c.
The Loire, at the heart of this rich, historic region, has
never been developed for hydroelectric power or used as
a navigation route for transporting goods. By the time it
reaches Orléans on its long journey from the Massif Central,
it has grown from a rivière to a substantial fleuve. There are
plenty of shallows for safe paddling, but with up to a kilometre
between the river banks in the Loire’s broadest sections, it’s
wise to exercise caution. The soft, shifting riverbed can
165b
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Loire and Normandy
a St-Aignan 20km upstream (D17 from
b Chatillon-sur-Cher Pleasant riverside
swims, by bridge off D976 (47.2694,
1.4881) and also at Chabris, 12km
upstream (47.2608, 1.6531).
lat long: 47.5867, 1.6011
walk in: 3 mins, moderate
a Etang de L’Oie Warm, shallow lake in
b Montlivault Riverside beach on
Loire with sandy shallows and islands
opposite Château de Menars. 5km
W of Chambord, off D951, 2.3km S of
Montlivault. Parking on track parallel to
road, next to river (47.6336, 1.4139).
lat long: 47.7581, 0.6964
walk in: 1 min, easy
20km E of A28/J26. From cemetery
,,
a Artins 5km E of Couture on D10.
Pleasant park and picnic area with rope
swing, by bridge at Vieux Bourg
(47.7553, 0.7425).
b Troo Grassy riverbank path leads
upstream from bridge beneath trees
(D917). Or 500m further E find café R
Guinguette des Îles (E 06 79 04 54 45)
on manicured islands (47.7742, 0.8014).
c Lavardin E of Troo with hilltop ruin
and delightful riverside restaurant
R Relais d’A ntan. Grassy bays on
opposite bank (47.7436, 0.8869).
d Pont du Breuil, 1km W of Thoré-
la-Rochette (D82). Grassy area with
pontoon by bridge. Or turn L, then 500m
to terrain communal river access.
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165 étang de monperché
Once home to the king’s fish
165a etang de l’oie
One of many lakes in the
watery Sologne region
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Loire and Normandy
167
167
make for unpredictable channels and flows, yet if you are a
confident swimmer it can be exciting to ride with the currents.
For gentler swims, head for the places with river beaches
where local families regularly bathe (165b, 170b).
Many of France’s most famous châteaux cluster along the
region’s smaller rivers – the tributaries of the Loire. The Cher
flows among vineyards and orchards and is the setting for one
of the Loire Valley’s most exquisite châteaux, Chenonceau 64.
Its perfect line of white Renaissance arches spans the river
and provides a stunning and memorable backdrop for anyone
who swims here. You can access the large river pool from the
wooded bay just upstream, adjacent to the picturesque ruins
of an old mill, le Moulin Fort. Upstream to the east are several
other delightful swimming locations, such as the sandy
riverside beaches at St-Aignan 164a and quiet riverbanks of
Chatillon-sur-Cher 164b.
168
The Loire Valley’s grandest château, Chambord, lies further
north. It was built by the notoriously extravagant François I,
who intended diverting the Loire – a full five kilometres away
– to flow in front of his new country residence. Fortunately, he
was persuaded that redirecting the tiny Cosson would suit his
purposes. You can swim in royal fishing lakes, such as Étang
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Loire and Normandy
168c
The wild Loire at Île St-Martin
Indre & Indrois
167 pont romain
168 azay-le-rideau
Enchanting ivy-covered ruins of Roman
bridge with small island and pools in
secluded location.
Pleasant sandy beach by R café and
car park, just downstream of fairytale,
island château.
5km N of Loches (D25), just beyond
,,
9km W of A 85/J 9. Hire canoes £ to
,,
explore streams around château. Also
swimming around island from riverside
! Le Sabot (E 02 47 45 42 72) on N bank.
lat long: 47.1658, 0.9919
walk in: 3 mins, moderate
L’Isle Auger, bridge is signed on L. Park
at end of lane and follow track 100m to
river. More pools downstream of ruins
and island.
a St-Jean-St-Germain is 5km S of
Loches. Grassy picnic area by road
bridge and beaches beneath weir.
Deeper longer section upstream
(47.0858, 1.0383). See also Swim 69.
b Veigne 10km S of Tours off D17.
Popular riverside area with deep water
for jumps, plus lido for kids (47.28917,
0.73444).
c Pont du Ruan large old mill pool
complex where kids swim (47.2633,
0.5761). Restaurant R La Maison de
Meunier. Also track to upstream
riverside 1km to N (D17).
lat long: 47.2594, 0.4640
walk in: 1 min, easy
a Marnay is 7km downstream (W on
D120). Pretty, tucked-away pools on
Indre sub-stream. At Marnay turn L (D7)
and find track on R after 200m. Follow
for 400m to find small sandy pools on L
(47.2858, 0.3872).
b Pont de Grenon Quiet picnic area /
beach with playground. Turn N off D7
1km W of Rivarennes, dir Rupuanne
(47.2725, 0.3381).
c Château d’Ussé
Swim possible from
car park, but we camped on riverbank at
Île St-Martin (1.2km N on D16) and swam
in the Loire (47.2620, 0.2876).
d Bréhémont is 8km upstream. You
can hire souped-up pedalos £ from
Les Aquacycles (E 08 99 23 60 16) to
explore the Loire (47.2960, 0.3555).
e Villandry is 12km further upstream,
just on the Cher. Follow road N past
football pitch to stone cross then down
to beach and island. On Loire cycle route
(47.3444, 0.5094).
169 montrésor, indrois
lat long: 47.1544, 1.2025
walk in: 20 mins, easy
Charming riverside walk with deep
lily-fringed pool at Pont du Jardinier.
Stunning village and Monet-like gardens.
Outdoor theatre performances in
summer.
In Vallé de l’Indrois, 17km E of Loches
,,
(D760). Park near bridge and follow
Balcons de l’Indrois, past Le Belier
Hydraulique and L’Ilse, to Pont du
Jardinier at upstream end of village.
a Étang du Pas-aux-Ânes Shallow
forest lake with red sandy beaches. 8km
W of Montrésor (D760) then L before D9
and on L after 800m (47.1329, 1.1138)
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168c île st-martin
The Loire here is llike
a great African river
170b downstream from
candes-st-martin
Shifting sand bars and
beaches
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Loire and Normandy
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172d
170b Candes-St-Martin
171
de Montperché 165 in the surrounding Fôret de Boulogne, and
there are several others in the wooded, watery landscape of
the Sologne 165a.
171a
Upstream of bridge
To the northeast, the river Loir (no ‘e’) winds northwards
through charming Lavardin 166c, with its ruined medieval
castle, and past the troglodyte dwellings of Troo 166b. This
small tributary of the Loire was once a navigation route
and the whole of the stretch we explored is deep with no
unpredictable currents – ideal for tranquil swims in sunwarmed water with views of bright poppy fields and orchards.
Heading south, make time to visit Azay-le-Rideau 168, a
romantic, turreted château set on an island in the river Indres.
The adventurous may want to swim across and explore the
castle’s streams and moats from the campsite opposite, or
you might prefer to take a canoe up its ancient water courses.
There are many other attractive beaches tucked away nearby
168b or you can swim by the picture-book Château d’Ussé
168c. From here, it’s easy to join the Loire à Vélo cycle path at
nearby Villandry 168e, which has magnificent gardens.
Upstream on the Indre, near Loches, there are pleasant family
beaches and picnic areas around a large river pool with a
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Loire and Normandy
Vienne, Louet & Sarthe
170 île du pont
171 st-aubin-de-luigne
172 parcé-sur-sarthe
Small island in river Vienne with steep
sand banks and rope swing, 12km
upstream of Chinon.
Deep swimming in pretty village on
Layon, a small tributary of the Loire.
Famous for its punts (barques).
Quiet riverside area with pebble beach
at edge of sleepy village on the Sarthe.
Head W from L’Île-Bouchard on D8 via
,,
10km SW of Angers and 5km W of
,,
St-Gilles. After 3km, before Panzoult
junction, find black sign Le Pont and
track L to river. Wade over to island to
find sand banks and swing on far side
above deep section of river.
A87/J24. Park in village centre and follow
riverside path beyond campsite. For £
punt hire E 02 41 78 52 98.
D57). At S end of village (Rue du Cap
André Sauvage) take track L by recycling
bins and dead end sign.
lat long: 47.1275, 0.3928
walk in: 5 mins, moderate
a Chezelet
is 2.2km further
downstream off D8, with track to picnic
tables and shallow pebble beach (47.1367,
0.3664). Le Puy beach is 1.8km further
downstream.
b Candes-St-Martin Popular pebble
beach at confluence of Vienne and
Loire (15km W of Chinon). Open site with
splendid views across to town (47.2125,
0.0775). Park immediately after bridge
(D7) and take track on L 5mins down to
beach. You can also swim upstream,
4km further at Rassay (D751).
lat long: 47.3263, -0.6702
walk in: 5 mins, easy
a Rochefort-sur-Louet Pleasant village
beach (D751) next to bridge by riverside
! St-Offrange (47.3593, -0.6556). Or
turn R down road Le Port and find river
access from field with plane trees, after
swimming pool 200m. Popular stretch
of river for canoeing.
b Montreuil-Bellay Deep river section
above weir. Access from picnic area
Isle aux Moines, by car park in front of
chateau (47.1336, -0.1567).
lat long: 47.8378, -0.1956
walk in: 1 min, easy
50km NW of Angers (A11/J10 then
,,
a Avoise is 3km N on D57. Riverside path
and open stretch of river behind the !
campsite (47.8658, -0.2091).
b Asnières-sur-Vègre Attractive village
on Sarthe tributary, 4km NW (D57).
Paddling beneath old bridge by ancient
church, plus deeper section above weir
(47.8894, -0.2340).
c Juigné-sur-Sarthe Continue 6km on
D22 and turn L into L’Écluse 300m after
village. Pontoon with steps below weir/
lock (47.8584, -0.2899).
d Solesmes
800m further along (D22)
turn L before bridge into picnic area/
parking, and follow path 200m (47.8546,
-0.2988).
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174a
Aquainville
173b
174
weir 167a. If you prefer seclusion, seek out the ivy-clad ruins
of the Pont Romain, set in an island glade between deep pools,
like a scene from Midsummer Night’s Dream 167. Follow the
Indrois, another tributary, and discover one of France’s most
beautiful villages, Montrésor. Its gardens and lily ponds are
straight out of a Monet painting 169. On summer weekends,
the river and village are softly illuminated by solar lamps for
the ‘Nuits Solaires’ entertainment.
In this region of rivers, another main tributary, the Vienne, has
created a long sand- and pebble-beach at Candes-St-Martin
170b where it joins the Loire. On the Sarthe’s upper reaches,
around the monastery of Solesmes 172d, you can experience
the deep peace of rural France. There are several picturesque
medieval villages, such as Asnières-sur-Vègre 172b, to explore
or grassy river banks for day-dreaming after a dip.
173a
In this part of the region, the patchwork of small fields, water
meadows and woodlands is reminiscent of the Normandy
countryside. From higher land to the northeast around
Alençon, the Orne 173 and Touques 174 offer deeper water
and tranquil pools as they meander through sleepy villages.
Stop off and stock up with mouth-watering local cheeses and
charcuterie for lazy lunches and picnics on the grassy banks.
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Loire and Normandy
Cascade du Vey
Normandy
173 putanges-pont-écrepin
d Chappelle Ste-Anne is 5km
175 étang de mousuette
Beach and grassy banks on Lac de
Rabodanges (upper Orne) with Palm
Beach café bar R.
e Le Val de Maizet Downstream 1km on
Very secluded lake in Perche Forest.
Warm water and sandy banks.
lat long: 48.7844, -0.2854
walk in: 2 mins, easy
20km W of Argentan (A88/J13)
,,
Swimming adjacent to Pont de Ste-Croix
on D872.
a Pont-d’Ouilly is 15km downstream.
downstream from Thury on quiet
riverside track 1km N from Grimbosq
(D257, 49.0646, -0.4466).
opposite bank (via Trois-Monts, D212).
Grassy banks above weir, just beyond
old railway bridge (49.0667, -0.4407).
Café R with pedalos for hire £ 2km
downstream at Pont-du-Coudray (D41).
Quiet grassy banks 1km downstream
of village (D167) by gîte, le Moulin Neuf
(48.8790, -0.4134).
174 camembert
D562. Popular weir and R café area at
Moulin du Vey (48.9136, -0.4751). 1km
upstream, beneath railway viaduct, is
another fun weir by the £ canoe club.
Pretty rural lake set in lush field. From
Camembert (Vimoutiers D979) signed La
Vallée d’Orval and Le Chouquet.
b Clécy is 10km downstream via D1/
c Thury-Harcourt on D562 has
swimming above weir near kayak club
(48.9870, -0.4832). Also above weir at
Caumont-sur-Orne (D562).
lat long: 48.9018, 0.1604
walk in: 2 mins, moderate
a Auquainville Pretty pool on Touques
stream, N of Vimoutiers (D16/D64)
beneath bridge on D64 (49.0566,
0.2523).
lat long: 48.6216, 0.6747
walk in: 10 mins, moderate
Find forest track R off D918, 2.5 km
,,
S of Randonnai. Continue 500m then L
through woods 200m. Also try Étang de
Fortibert on opposite side of road 500m
(48.6274, 0.6902)
a Étang Neuf Small swimming lake, L
off D930, 1km S of Abbaye de la Trappe
(48.6260, 0.5941).
176 roches de ham
lat long: 49.0230, -1.0548
walk in: 5 mins, easy
Lush banks of Vire beneath high cliffs.
A84/J39 N of Tessy-sur-Vire.Turn R
,,
off D551, 500m S of Condé-sur-Vire, and
R again via le Moulin de Vire. Continue
1.5km to river bridge and follow river
upstream.
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