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DOWNLOADABLE
ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS
®
http://www.woodonline.com
Gardener's
Delight
Potting
Bench
Clad in house siding,
our bench makes an
attractive (and useful)
addition to a patio or
deck. Shelves above
and a capacious cabinet below hold plenty
of supplies–and a
roomy green counter provides space to
exercise your green
thumb.
DP-00164
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2001
Page 1 of 6
Page 2 of 6
21/2" deck
screws
A
holes,
countersunk
5/32"
K
24"
F
C
11/4" deck screws
O
P
H
G
5/32" hole,
countersunk
I
Q
E
D
N
W
X
U
S
7/64" pilot hole
1/2" deep
K
11/4" deck screws
M
V
J
EXPLODED
VIEW
Mount box
31/2" from top
and flush with
outside edge
of door.
A
Mount batten U 5" from bottom
and flush with outside edge of door.
B
O
holes, countersunk on back side
11/4" deck screws
5/32"
T
21/2"
31/2"
R
U
T
B
1" galvanized
brad
L
1"
5/8"
21/2" deck screws
233/4"
33"
11/2"
L
21/2" deck
screw
S
E
R
K
D
DOOR STOP
DETAIL
J
C
S braces
‡"
2"
3"
C
Qty.
Matl.
TFinished
W Size
L Matl. Qty.
Part
Parts forTone twin-size
bed
W
L
Legs
SIDE FRAMES
A* headboard
legs 1fi"
‡"
2‹"
A back legs
3fi" 40"
72" OC 26
B* footboard legs
‡"
2‹"
31"
O
6
B front legs
1fi"
3fi"
36" C 2
Headboard and footboard
C rails
rails
1fi"
3fi" 40"
24" OC 42
C top
‡"
7"
D top rails
cleats
‡"
15fi" OC 22
D bottom
‡"
7"‡" 40"
E footboard
panels fi"
E side cleats
‡" 13fi"
‡" 11fi"
22‹" OPC 42
F headboard panels fi" 13fi" 20fi" OP 2
F side panels
fl"
17"
23" S 2
G* footboard edging ‹"
fi" 11fi" O
4
BOTTOM
AND
BACK
H* headboard edging ‹"
fi" 20fi" O
4
†
G bottom
‡" 22‡"
31fi"
EP
fi"
fi"
3"
O 14
I spacers
fi"
fi"
J† spacers
H back
fl"
30" 4fi"
27" OS 18
K cleats
‡"
‡" 36fi" O
2
I back cleats
‡"
‡"
26" C 2
Post caps
COUNTER
L bases
‹" AND
1fl"SHELVES
1fl" O
4
J counter
‡" 2‹"
23‡" 2‹"
33" LO
EP 14
M caps
1"
K counterpins
N alignment
‹" diam.
1fl" OD 4
sides
‡"
3fi"
25" C 2
O cap dowels
fi" diam.
2‡" OD 4
L counter
Bedrails
and mattress ‹"
platform ‡"
molding
33"
P 1
P bedrails
‡"
6"
73"
M top shelves
‡"
5fi"
31" OC 3 2
Q cleats
‡"
3"
70"
O
2
N btm. shelf
‡"
2‡"
31" C 1
R mattress platform ‡" 38fi" 74›" OP 1
O top & btm.
shelf backs
‡"
5fi"
30" C 2
*Parts
initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
P middle
shelf
backsmake a‡"total of3fi"
30" (I) and
C 242
†For bunk beds,
12 spacers
Q back
spacers
(J). This is enough for both beds and includes
splash(I) and eight
‡"spacers
1‡"(J) for 30"
C 1
four spacers
the guardrails.
R door stop
‡"
2"
30" C 1
list
FINISHED SIZE
Part
T
WSize L
Finished
W partsL
TBunk bed
Guardrails and bed-joining
dowels
DOORS
Matl. Qty.
Qty.
FINISHED SIZE
materials
Bill of Materials
Matl.
materials list
bedTS joining
doors dowels fl" fi"14Œ"
diam. 29‡"
3‡" S OD2
UT* outside
battens legs
‡" ‡" 3fi"
2‹" 14"
16‡" C O 2
U* inside legs
‡"
2‹" 13‡" O
BOXES
V long rails
‡"
2‹" 71‹" O
V backs
‡"
3fi" 12fi" C 2
W short rails
‡"
2‹" 56‹" O
W ends
‡"
3fi"
3‹" C 4
X long panels
fi" 29¤" 6‹" OP
XY short
frontspanels
‡"fi" 3fi"
21fl" 14"6‹" C OP2
6‹" C O 2
YZ* edging
bottoms
‡" ‹" 2fi"fi" 12fi"
Ladder
Materials Key: C–choice (cedar, redwood, cypress, or
AA sides
58‡"
O
pressure-treated
stock), ‡"
S–siding3fi"
(we used
T-111 siding),
plywood,
BB* EP-exterior
steps
‡" P–pine
3Ø"or fir.14"
O
CC spacer
‡"2fi"deck
3" screws,
15"2pairofO4"
Supplies:
1‹"deckscrews,
tee
2×6"
DD hinges
catch (Stanley SP909),
‡"
5" hasp
15"(Stanley
O
CD930), 1" brads, clear exterior finish.
4
8
4
2
2
2
2
8
2
4
1
1
Buying
Guide
Materials
Key: O–oak, OP–oak plywood,
Hardware
kit.
pair of
4" tee hinges
LO–laminated2oak,
OD–oak
dowel.with a black steel
finish (Stanley SP909), 2×6" hasp with a steel black
Supplies: #8×fl", #8ׇ", #8×1‹", and #8×1fi" flathead
finish (Stanley CD930). Miller Hardware Inc., 1300
wood screws; white glue; ‹" hardboard.
M.L. King Jr. Parkway, Des Moines, IA 50314 or call
Blades and Bits:
Dado blade,
bit, flush515/283-1724
for current
priceschamfer
and to order.
trim bit, ‹" round-over bit, fi" round-over bit,
›" plug cutter.
Buying Guide
No-mortise bedrail fittings. Set of four (2 sets needed
for bunk beds), no. 142496. Order from Woodcraft, call
800/225-1153 or go to www.woodcraft.com.
2
Page 3 of 6
3/4"
1/2"
3 1 /2 "
dado
deep
2 3 /4 "
31/2" dado
3/4" deep
3 1 /2 "
11/4" deck screws
31 / 2 "
17"
C
31/2"
BACK LEG
(Inside face shown)
3 1 /2 "
A
31/2"-wide
half-lap joints
3/4" deep
23"
B
SIDE
FRAME
23"
17"
R=31/2"
7"
3/4"
3/4"
1/2"
dadoes
deep
7"3
/4"
31 /2 "
3 1 /2 "
6"
3 1 /2 "
7"
C
3/4"
3/4"
1/2"
31 / 2 "
31/2" dado
3/4" deep
6"
5/32"
hole,
countersunk
on back side
NOTE: The joint dimensions specified in this project are based on
the common milled dimensions
of softwood lumber. If your lumber varies from the dimensions
stated in the Bill of Materials,
you’ll need to adjust the size of
the joints.
C in the configuration shown on
the Side Frame drawing. (We used
Titebond II, a weatherproof glue,
to assemble all joints in this project.) Drill countersunk pilot holes,
and drive screws to reinforce the
half-lap joints.
Start with the
2x4 side frames
Now, add the side panels
1 Cut the back legs (A), the front
legs (B), and the rails (C) to the
lengths listed in the Bill of Materials
from 2×4 stock. Using the Back
Leg and Side Frame drawings for
reference, mark and then cut the
half-lap joints and shelf dadoes on
these pieces.
2 Mark and cut the 3fi" radius on
the top end of the back legs (A).
3 Glue and clamp parts A, B, and
1 Rip and crosscut the top cleats
(D) and the side cleats (E) to
size. Glue and screw the cleats
around the top and sides of the
opening in the side frames.
2 Cut the side panels (F) from
fl"-thick T-111 siding for a snug
fit into the side frame assemblies.
(T-111 is a rough-sawn exteriorgrade plywood that features vertical grooves machined into its
surface.) Plan your cuts so that the
dadoes
deep
91/4"
31/2" dado
3/4" deep
23/4"
3/4"
31/2"
A
23"
31/2" dado
3/4" deep
31/2"
6"
31/2"
Page 4 of 6
Page 5 of 6
11/4" deck
screws
F
E
D
I
CARCASE
27/8"
223/4"
G
3/4"
311/2"
Half-laps
11/4" deck
screws
H
30"
Place I 1/4" from top
edge of H .
holes,
countersunk
5/32"
B
C
A
Inside face of D
and E are flush
with inside face of
A , B , and C .
6"
27"
D
E
F
11/4" deck screws
5/32" holes, countersunk
3/8" from bottom end
C
B
C
I
A
grooves in the siding are centered
edge-to-edge in the side panels (F).
Drill four countersunk ¸" holes
along the top and bottom edges of
the side panels where shown on
the Carcase drawing.
3 Place one side frame assembly on
your workbench, with the outside
facing up. Referring to the Carcase
drawing, glue the side panel (F)
into position, and drive screws
through the holes along
the
top edge of the side panel (F) into
the top cleat (D). Repeat
this
process with the other side frame
assembly.
Next, make the
bottom and back
1 Cut the bottom (G) and back (H)
to size. Cut a notch in each corner
of the bottom (G), where shown
on the Carcase drawing. Next, drill
and countersink ¸" holes along the
ends of the bottom (G).
2 Cut the back cleats (I) to size.
Drill equally spaced mounting
holes in adjacent surfaces of the
back cleats, where shown on the
Carcase drawing. Then, glue and
screw the cleats to the back.
3 Lay one side assembly (A–F) on
the floor, with the inner surface
facing upward. Glue and screw
the bottom (G) in position. Next,
glue and screw the back assembly
(H/I) to the side assembly and bottom (G). Position the other side
assembly, and fasten the bottom
(G) and the back assembly (H/I) to
it with glue and screws. Stand the
assembly upright.
Build and attach
the counter next
1 Cut the counter (J) to size. Next,
cut notches in the back corners,
where shown on the Exploded
View drawing. Test-fit the counter
(J), noting that its rear edge is supported on the ends of the back
cleats (I), making the front edge
slightly lower for drainage.
2 Cut the counter sides (K) to size
and shape. Drill countersunk holes
in the counter sides (K).
3 Cut the counter molding (L) to
size, and attach it to the front edge
of the counter (J). Set the brads
slightly below the surface of the
counter molding (L). If you want
to paint the counter, now is the
time to do it.
4 Set the counter assembly (J/
L) into position, then attach the
counter sides (K) to it and the back
legs (A).
And now for the shelves
1 Cut the top shelves (M), bottom
shelf (N), top/bottom shelf backs
(O), middle shelf backs (P), and
the backsplash (Q) to size.
2 Glue the shelves (M, N) into
their dadoes in the back legs (A),
and lightly clamp the back legs (A)
to keep the joints snug.
3 Glue and screw the top shelf
back (O) in place, attaching it to
the top shelf (M) and the back
legs (A). Glue and screw O to the
bottom shelf (N) and the back legs
(A). Repeat the drilling and gluing
procedure to attach the middle
shelf backs (P).
4 Slip the backsplash (Q) into
position, and drive screws into it
through the bottom shelf (N) and
the counter (J).
Add the hardware,
then the finish
1 Hang the doors by attaching
them with hinges to the front
surface of the legs (B). Be certain
that you choose hardware with a
rustproof finish. We used Stanley
SP909 (78-5300) 4" tee hinges and
a Stanley CD930 (75-5300) latching hasp. See the Buying Guide for
a mail-order source.
2 Remove the hardware, then apply
a clear exterior finish. Replace the
hinges, and add a hasp to keep the
doors closed.¿
Produced by Marlen Kemmet
Project Design: Dave Ash
Illustrations: Lorna Johnson
Graphic Design: Jamie Downing
Photograph: Hetherington Photography
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2001
Now, construct and
attach the doors
1 Cut the door stop (R) and the
braces (S) to size. Drill countersunk holes, then assemble the
parts with glue and screws.
2 Screw the door stop and brace
assembly (R/S) to the front legs
(B) and to the bottom side of the
plywood counter (J).
3 Cut the doors (T) and battens (U)
to size. Glue and screw the battens
(U) to the back side of the doors
(T) 5" from the bottom and flush
with the outside edge.
4 Rip and crosscut the box backs
(V), box ends (W), box fronts (X),
and box bottoms (Y) to size.
5 Assemble the boxes, and screw
them in place, positioning your
screws so that they do not align
with the grooves in the doors.
The purchase of these plans does not transfer
any copyright or other ownership interest in the
plans, the design, or the finished project to the
buyer. Buyer may neither reproduce the plans
for sale nor offer for sale any copies of the
finished project.
Page 6 of 6
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