Urban Backpacking in Argentina

Transcription

Argentina
Urban Backpacking in South America
“Life is a Journey not a Guided Tour”
10/12/2009
WCH Consulting
Wayne Hewlett
Life is a Journey not a Guided Tour
WCH Consulting
Table of Contents
Contents
Highlights................................................................................................................................. 3
Facts: ........................................................................................................................................ 3
Personal Perspective ................................................................................................................. 3
Transportation: ......................................................................................................................... 3
Getting there: ........................................................................................................................ 3
Places to See............................................................................................................................. 5
Buenos Aires ............................................................................................................................ 5
Buenos Aires Neighborhoods ............................................................................................... 5
Getting Around Buenos Aires ............................................................................................... 5
Recoleta ................................................................................................................................... 5
Things to See and Do in Recoleta ......................................................................................... 6
Dining in Recoleta ................................................................................................................ 9
Accommodations in Recoleta: ............................................................................................ 10
Things to See and Do in City Center ................................................................................... 10
Things to See and Do in Puerto Madero .............................................................................. 11
Things to See and Do in Palermo ........................................................................................ 11
Things to See and Do in San Telmo .................................................................................... 12
Iguazu Falls ............................................................................................................................ 13
Getting To Iguazu Falls. ..................................................................................................... 15
Staying in Puerto Iguazu ..................................................................................................... 15
Puerto Iguazu...................................................................................................................... 15
Dining in Puerto Iguazu ...................................................................................................... 16
Mendoza................................................................................................................................. 16
Getting There...................................................................................................................... 16
Staying in Mendoza ............................................................................................................ 16
Dining in Mendoza ............................................................................................................. 17
Attractions in Mendoza ....................................................................................................... 17
Puente Del Inca – Aconcaqua ................................................................................................. 17
Getting to Puente Del Inca .................................................................................................. 18
San Carlos de Bariloche.......................................................................................................... 18
Attractions .......................................................................................................................... 19
Cerro Campanario .............................................................................................................. 19
LLAO-LLAO ..................................................................................................................... 19
Lodging .............................................................................................................................. 19
Getting to Bariloche ............................................................................................................ 20
El Bolson................................................................................................................................ 20
Lodging .............................................................................................................................. 20
Attractions .......................................................................................................................... 20
Other Argentine Attractions .................................................................................................... 21
Hyperlink References: ............................................................................................................ 21
Footnotes:............................................................................................................................... 21
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Argentina
Highlights
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Buenos Aires. Capital with strong European influence. .
Iguazu Falls: one of world’s largest waterfalls.
Mendoza: Argentina’s world famous wine region
Aconaqua: Highest mountain in South America
Bariloche: Glacial lakes in Patagonia in a German inspired city
El Bolson: Microbreweries, mountain biking in this hippy haven.
Facts:
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8th largest country in the world. Only Russia, Canada, US, China, Brazil, Australia and
India are larger.
Money U$1 = 3.2 Argentine pesos
Argentina means “land of silver”
The Spanish first arrived around 1516, and Argentina gained independence in 1816. San
Martin was the liberator.
Tipping: 10% in restaurants and hotels. Just round up for a tip in a taxi
Visa not needed for North Americans. Passports only
Personal Perspective
Argentina is so large and there are so many sites to see that you could spend 4 months alone here
and not see it all. You will have to pick and choose what to see and where to go. Personally, if I
had to do it again, I would spend less time in Buenos Aires. I spent 5 weeks there. I would spend
more time in southern Argentina, Calafate, Puerto Madryn and Ushuaia.
It is easy to travel here. The bus system is cheap and well developed. If your budget is large, mix
in some air flight to save time. Hostels are not just for youth. Ask for a private room with
private bath and it is the same as a hotel only 1/3 the cost.
You will have to adjust to Argentine time. Things are just not as efficient here. As I said, there is
no easy button here. It is difficult to get change for subways in BsAs (Buenos Aires) so you
horde it when you can. You have to wait in lines for many common things. Places are not open
when they should be. People try to be helpful and don’t know so give you wrong information
instead of saying “I don’t know” . ATMs are out of money in the morning and evenings. Queue
up at noon. But overall, it is a great place to visit. It is safe and easy to travel and explore.
Transportation:
Getting there:
By Airplane:
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Two airports. EZE is the primary airport. It will cost about $100 pesos (U$35) for a taxi to
Buenos Aires proper. New departure tax recently implemented also. You’ll need another U$50
to depart.
By Ferry:
Buquebus Ferry terminal is located in Retiro. Ferry service to Montevideo and Colonia del
Sacramento. Immigration and passport control is done at the departing site.
Colonia del Sacramento to Buenos Aires is about a 1 hour trip and then 2 hour bus ride to
Montevideo. In contrast, it is about a 3 hour ferry ride to Montevideo from Buenos Aires and
more expensive.
Long Distance Bus:
Omnibus station is located in Retiro. Border Crossing at Brazil or Uruguay. Have to get off bus
and go through border crossings. Not an issue. It’s standard procedure for them.
Note: Don’t lose your entrance stub or it will cost you $30US.
Check www. google.com.ar for local web searches. Enter omnibus and city name and you will
find the website for the city’s bus station. Note, not all cities bus terminals are on the web.
Ida and Vuelta are two way tickets.
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Places to See
Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is the Paris of South America. The capital of Argentina has a population of
approximately 13 million. It has it all. It is graced with European architecture, diverse
neighborhoods, abundant social life, plentiful museums and things to see and do.
It also has its problems; cracked sidewalks, poor air quality, panhandlers, crazy traffic,
congestion, inflation.
Buenos Aires Neighborhoods
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Recoleta is the rich old neighborhood noted for its cemetery of all things.
City Center
Puerto Madero is the new development around the old harbor.
San Telmo is noted for the tango.
Palermo is noted for its parks, statues, embassies and sporting complexes.
You will need a full day to explore each barrio and it will be a long tiring day.
Getting Around Buenos Aires
Subway
Subway or Subte will cost 90 centavos or 30 cents. It is no different than the MBTA in Boston;
crowded, hot, dirty and stinky. It is easy to use. For a city that stays up all night, the subways
close at 10pm while restaurants don’t even open until 8pm
Taxi’s: Plentiful. Make sure have number over wheel well. There has been trouble in BA with
un-registered taxi’s
City Buses: Cheap but confusing. 80 page manual for routes and routes don’t necessary circle
back to where you picked it up. Need to pay for the zone you are in or going to. Buses stop only
long enough to get on. It’s more like an amusement park ride. Keep your receipt. The receipt
police might check to see if you have yours. Best way is to have someone show you how to use
city buses..
Walk. Much of the city is walk-able and it doesn’t take long to orient yourself or do a mixture of
walking and the above.
Recoleta
The area of Recoleta was populated as a result of a yellow fever epidemic in 1871. The richest
families retired from their residences in the south towards the northern sector or Recoleta.
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Torcuato de Alvear, an Argentine statesman, diplomat and later president of the Republic (1922–
28) who constructed the Alvear Avenue, which was quickly filled with sumptuous palaces. Using
the ground of the excavations of Puerto Madero they were able to fill up the lowlands, building
parks and greens and transforming the swamps in the most elegant zone of the city. Recoleta has
been called the Paris of the Americas, many Fin de Siècle French-style palaces and villas were
built in the area
Things to See and Do in Recoleta
La Recoleta Cemetery is a famous cemetery. The layout of the cemetery was designed by the
French engineer Próspero Catelin, and was remodeled in 1881, while Torcuato de Alvear was
mayor of the city, by the Italian architect Juan Antonio Buschiazzo
The Cemetery includes graves of some of the most influential and important Argentineans,
including several presidents, scientists, and wealthy characters. Internationally, Eva Perón is the
best-known person buried in this cemetery.
The entrance to the cemetery is through neo-classical gates with tall Greek columns. The
cemetery contains many elaborate marble mausoleums, decorated with statues, in a wide variety
of architectural styles. The entire cemetery is laid out in sections like city blocks, with wide treelined main walkways branching into sidewalks filled with mausoleums.
Most of the mausoleums are in fine shape and well-maintained while many have fallen into
disrepair. Several can be found with broken glass, littered with rubbish, and on occasion you
might find a mausoleum being used as a janitorial supply closet, with cleaning and maintenance
products stored on top of coffins.
Each mausoleum bears the family name etched into the facade; brass or bronze plaques are added
to the front for particular family members. La Recoleta is one of those cemeteries where the
tradition of engraving a death date but no birth date has been maintained.1
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Tomb of Evita
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Iglesia de Nuetra Senora de Pilar is the church at the entrance to the cemetery. It hosts cultural
events and a museum inside it. On the grounds, local artist craft fares are held every weekend.
You can find interesting artisan work here. Don’t forget to negotiate or you will get special
America pricing and it won’t be in your favor.
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Plaza Alvear is a very expensive hotel on Avenida Alvear. It is advertised as one of the top 10
hotels in the world. Don’t expect to stay there on a backpackers budget. On Sunday high tea is
served. Expect white glove service.
Palais de Glace museum is an interesting museum in Recoleta and is diagonally across from the
cemetery and Iglesia de Nuetra Senora de Pilar.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes has one of Latin America’s most important art collections. It is
well worth it. You could easily spend one entire day here.
Malba Museum of Modern Art This museum is located on Liberator Avenue. It might actually be
in Palermo but it isn’t a far walk from Recoleta and you will walk by Floralis Genérica at United
Nations Park. Its metal petals open and closed based on sunlight.
Recoleta is very easy walk-able and very safe anytime of the day. Stroll down Avenue Avenida
and look at some of the estates. Tour high end shopping malls. Check out the furniture gallery at
the Basilica de Pilar. Check out the parks along Liberator and if you feel like you need to get
back to your American cultural roots check out the bookstore in the Recoleta Galleria and then go
to the movies. The cinema, Village Cines, have American movies in English and subtitled in
Spanish. There release is slightly behind American time in terms of release. And be aware that
when you buy a movie ticker there, you pick the seat you want when you purchase the ticket. It
will be printed on your receipt. And you are not allowed in the cinema until 10 minutes before
show time. And one last thing, if you are missing America, there is a McDonald’s in the Galleria.
It offers free internet access. It is always crowded and it offers European coffee. In the evening,
there are street performers at the Galleria. It’s the happening place in Recoleta.
Dining in Recoleta
I never found anyplace that was special. Restaurants are expensive and don’t open until 8. The
best places that I would recommend are:
The Tea Connection. It is a chain found around BsAs. I wish they had them in the US. Teas and
Sandwiches are available at a reasonable price Plus free internet. Located at the corner of
Uriburu and Pacheo de Melo.
Pura Vida on Calle Uriburu 1489. Food and juice bar. Staff is great. They tried to teach me
Spanish and I helped them with their English
Volta. Deadly ice cream. Some of the best. But ordering can be a hassle since they only speak
Spanish. Located throughout the city but the one in Recoleta is at Callao and Pacheco de Melo.
If you are a vegetarian, then BaAs is challenging. This is the land of beef and Malbec wines.
Also with the European conditions, you can find very good Italian and French food, by the way,
all the restaurants are non-smoking.
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Accommodations in Recoleta:
Any accommodation in Buenos Aires is going to be expensive. We stayed at Apart Recoleta.
Great location but old and needs some updating. Cost about $75 per night and the internet never
worked reliably.
We found an apartment through Craigslist being sublet by an American. It was expensive at
$1000 per month or about $35/day. It looked better than it was.
I would advised against using www.apartmentsba.com . Some people have had good luck with
them but I had trouble with them and I have talked to others who had issues also. You must put a
down payment on the apartment before seeing it and if you decline they keep a percentage of it
unless you are very good at debate, very patient and very consistent.
I heard two positive recommendations for Reynolds Propiedades from fellow Americans.
Things to See and Do in City Center
Oblisico Main icon of the city built in 1936 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the first
founding of the city. Located in the Republic Square, Use this to orient yourself.
Casa Rosada. Argentina’s equivalent to the white house but pink
Teatro Colon. Was closed last year for repairs. Magnificent and luxurious building
Tango Show. Nightly shows available although it is possible to see couples tangoing in the
parks throughout the city.
Palacio del Congresio. Argentina’s congressional building. It could use a good sandblasting to
clean it up.
Avenida Florida Pedestrian avenue with street performers, leather salesmans, aggressive
beggars, chain stores, pickpockets, etc.
Plaza de Mayo. In this plaza is Casa Rosada, Mayo pyramid and city hall are located here. You
might see protest going on. You can still see protesters over Falkland war missing soldiers here.
Avenida de Mayo the avenue is often compared with those of Madrid, Barcelona and Paris due
of its sophisticated buildings of Art Nouveau, Neoclassic and eclectic styles
Soccer or Futbol. Tangol located on Avenida Florida can arrange tickets and transportation to a
soccer match. If you are adventuresome, go to a Boca vs River Plate match. BTW, it’s cheaper
if you pay with cash and not credit card.
Galerias Pacifico is a high end shopping mall. There is security at the doors so you won’t find
beggars in this mall.
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Things to See and Do in Puerto Madero
From its inception, the city of Buenos Aires had a problem accommodating large cargo ships. The
shallow river did not allow for direct docking, so ships remained far from the shore and unloaded
passengers and merchandise onto barges and ferries for transport to the pier.
In 1882 the national government contracted local businessman Eduardo Madero to be in charge of
the construction of a new port which would solve these disadvantages. Madero's project, designed
by British engineer Sir John Hawkshaw, was chosen from among numerous others.
Construction began in 1887 and was completed in 1897, although the installed fittings had been
partially operative since some years before. Important amounts of money were spent in this
construction and it was an engineering landmark of the time. Ten years after completion,
however, the appearance of larger cargo ships made Puerto Madero obsolete.
The New Port of Buenos Aires was completed in 1926, making the existing Madero docks
superfluous.
In the 1990s, local and foreign investment led to a massive regeneration effort, recycling and
refurbishing the west side warehouses into elegant houses, offices, lofts, private universities,
luxurious hotels and restaurants that conform to a gallery of options for this new district in a city
that grew up turning its back to the river. Led by the 1999 opening of the Buenos Aires Hilton,
luxurious hotels, state-of-the-art multiplex cinemas, theatres, cultural centres, and office and
corporate buildings are located mostly in the east side1
It looks like the Boston waterfront or Oakland. New buildings and skyscrapers surrounding
American chain restaurants in the old warehouses. It doesn’t have the feel of real Buenos Aires to
me.
Puente de la Mujer Bridge or Woman’s Bridge. It was designed by Santiago Calatrava and is
similar to his Puente del Alamillo and Sundial Bridge at Turtle Bay, but with a forward, rather
than a reverse angled cantilever, as is seen in those bridges.
Pier at Puerto Madero. You’ll find many good restaurants are pubs allow the harbor, You’ll
also find many American chain restaurants like Hooters.
BuequeBus and Onmibus is nearby. It’s not a tourist destination but find out where it is since
you will be using them.
Reserva Ecologica Costernera along the Rio Plate waterfront. It’s popular with runners and
mountain bikers.
Things to See and Do in Palermo
Japanese Garden. If you need a break from traffic and want to rest in a beautiful garden, check
the Japanese Garden out.
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Parque 3 de Febrero and Rosedal. Central Park is to New York and Parque de Febrero is to
Buenos Aires. People run, ride and roller blade around the closed streets, bands perform. You
can rent paddle boats. Families just hang out.
Museo Evita. The Argentines love Evita.
Planetario is BsAs Planetarium
Palermo Viejo has nice boutique stores and restaurants. I would stay in Palermo again if I was to
stay in Buenos Aires.
Things to See and Do in San Telmo
Plaza Dorrego. On Sunday, its famous antiques fair is held. You’ll see, street performers,
bands, local artisan. Plaza Dorrego is located on Defensa Ave which is closed to automobiles on
Sunday and packed with people.
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Iguazu Falls
Taller
and more massive than Niagara Falls, Iguazu Falls is one of South America’s top tourist
attractions. With 275 cascades over 2 miles with a drop of 269 feet, Iguazu Falls is an amazing
natural wonder that shouldn’t be missed.
Devil’s
Falls is the highlight of the Iguazu. It is a horseshoe shape falls that a boardwalk takes you right
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up to. Take note of the sparrows that will fly into the falls and nest on the cliffs behind the water.
Iguazu Falls is a national park. It is very accessible. Guide services are offered for a cost. Unless
you really want to understand the geography and geology of the park, then I wouldn’t use them.
Just looking at the waterfalls is amazing,
While walking around the park also take note of the wildlife. I saw
coatis,
toucans,
snakes and many, many butterflies.
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There is a train you
will need to take to get to the start of a long boardwalk to Devil’s Falls. Thousands and thousands
of butterflies flew along the train.
Getting To Iguazu Falls.
It is about a 20 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires to Puerto Iguazu. The bus will depart in the
evening. Long distance bus rides are overnight events. The bus station is Puerto Iguazu is in the
center of the town. Have your passport ready. There might be military checkpoints along the
way. You might be asked to present you passport. You don’t need to say anything during the
inspection. They are looking for illegals from Peru or Paraguay attempting to get into Argentina
illegally in order to work low wage jobs.
To get to the park, there is a bus shuttle that will pick you at various points in the city and hotels
in the city. It is cheap and reliable. The park is located more than 10 miles outside the town. The
shuttle buses are regular. Since this is a major tourist attraction, it is efficient.
Staying in Puerto Iguazu
I stayed at Out of Africa. It is within walking distance to the bus station. It is reasonably priced
and clean. The bus stop for the shuttle is located at the end of the street.
Puerto Iguazu
Purto Iguazu is a small town in the rain forest. The roads are covered with orange, irony dirt.
Restaurants, bars, bars, stores and ATMs are available. Nobody goes to Iguazu for the town. You
just put up with it. With that said, the city is safe and easily accessible. Other attractions include a
trip to the Brazilian side of the falls. However, 90% of the park is in Argentina. Expect to pay
about $200 for passport and transportation for two. Shopping excursions to Paraguay. My rule
was that if it doesn’t fit in the backpack then don’t buy it and most of it is just trinkets. You can
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also walk to the end of the main road in Puerto Iguazu to a small park to overlook the confluence
of two rivers and three countries. Brazil is straight ahead to the right and Paraquay to the left.
Dining in Puerto Iguazu
It is not noted for its cuisine but there are a few decent restaurant and bars in the city. Some are
major tourist attractions with outdoor seating and bands. Unfortunately, the food wasn’t very
good there. If you are sitting in some of the local establishments, you might notice beggars and
stray dogs. The city seems to have a problem with stray dogs. Some are in horrific shape and
nobody seems to care.
Mendoza
In my opinion, Mendoza is one of the best cities that I saw while in Argentina. It is a very
attractive city in the heart of Argentina’s wine country. In 1861, Mendoza suffered a severe
earthquake that killed nearly 6000 residents. The city was rebuilt in a grid pattern with many
parks (future evacuation centers for another earthquake) and low buildings and wide sidewalks.
Wine country is nearby and so is Mount Aconaqua, the highest mountain in South America. The
city has a sense of wealth and pride to it.
In 2008, National Geographic listed Mendoza as one of the top 10 historic destinations of the
World. I think that is an exaggeration but it is a very nice city.
Getting There
24 hour bus ride to Mendoza from Puerto Iguazu. The bus station is hectic. People will be at the
station offering places to stay although this is technically against the law.
Staying in Mendoza
There are many options available from very expensive hotels, casinos, hostels and home stays. It
is best to have something picked out before hand or at least an idea of where you want to stay.
After 24 hours on a bus and being greeted with noise, confusion and hawkers at the bus station, it
can be disorienting. There is a tourist both that can help you out in the bus station if you haven’t
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chosen anything in advance. Hostels also have themes here. There are specific hotels for hiking
and adventuring in Aconcagua park. I managed to negotiate a deal at the Hotel Continental. It is
in a great location and is a outstanding hotel but normal vacation expensive. After a few days, I
moved to Hotel Zamora, a Lonely Planet Hotel recommendation. It was old and needed some
repair but 1/3 cheaper at about $30 per day.
Dining in Mendoza
There are many fine dining options in Mendoza offering many fine Argentine wines. A good
vegetarian option is the Green Apple. It is located at Colon 458, San Martin. The buffet
selections are small but the food is really good. Unfortunately the buffet options don’t change
often so you can get burnt out of it quickly.
You can also fine Irish pubs in Mendoza and great ice cream shops. It is a college town so it has
everything.
Attractions in Mendoza
The biggest attraction is wine country. My recommendations are not to buy the $10 fancy map of
wine country with details of the local vineyards. This isn’t Napa. Also do not take the bike tour
of wine country. This isn’t Sonoma either. Also don’t bother taking the bus to the hot springs
outside the city. It’s Argentina’s version of water world.
There are tourist agencies that specialize in vineyard tours throughout the city. Negotiate for the
best price. A van will pick you up and safely take you to a number of fine vineyards.
I took the city bus to a local city and rented a bike to explore wine country. The bikes are in bad
shape. People had problems often and had to call back to have someone come for to replace or
repair it. The road starts out with a bike lane but then quickly becomes a narrow road. You are
told which roads to ride on. Otherwise your bike might be stolen. Some vineyards weren’t open
on Saturday. It’s hot and dusty. You couldn’t see that many vineyards on bikes and many people
including me had problems coming up with exact change for the bus ride back home. Others, that
I talked to agreed. Don’t bother exploring the wine county by bike.
You can easily spend 2 or 3 days just exploring Mendoza and its parks.
Puente Del Inca – Aconcaqua
Aconcaqua is the highest mountain in South America at 22,841 feet. It is possible to climb it up
the normal route without crampons, ice axes and ropes. The mountain is located about 35 miles
outside Mendoza in a remote region in a national park close to the border with Chile. Passes to
climb it can be obtained in Mendoza at the tourist office off Sarmiento Avenue. You can rent
equipment at many mountain shops across Mendoza also. Typically, it will take 3 weeks to climb
it.
The closest city to the Aconcaqua is Puente Del Inca. There are a few hostels there to support the
climbers. The best on to stay at is Hosteria Puente del Inca. It even has a decent restaurant, well
decent for being so far away from development. It is more expensive than normal.
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Puente Del Inca is a small tourist city due to the proximity of Aconcaqua and to the Inca arch, a
natural arch over a river. The city is very small. You can stand in one spot, rotate 360^ and see
everything. It’s spread out and on a plain. There is a crafts market in the city selling trinkets,
ponchos, hats, etc. There is also a defunct train station in the city. The train no longer runs
between Chile and Argentina. It closed during a financial crisis under President Memem when he
sold or closed national assets.
When approaching Puente Del Inca, you will notice a cemetery on the left. If you fail in climbing
Aconcaqua, then that is where you end up. You will also notice packs or mules. These are for the
mule trains to bring supplies to the climbers.
When I think of National Park, I think of Yosemite or Yellowstone. Once again this is Argentina.
There is no official entrance to the park. The closest thing is a military checkpoint that you have
to go through on the road at a military base. The path to get to the normal route for Aconcaqua is
a few kilometers outside of Puente del Inca and not marked. Down the path is the ranger station
where you must show your permit.
Getting to Puente Del Inca
Upsala bus line has a route to Puente Del Inca. It will cost about U$15 roundtrip. It can be found
at gate 55 in the Mendoza bus station. It is also possible to take a tour of the Andes and
surrounding attractions from Mendoza. Prices vary and most hotels or hostels have details
available. It is a full day trip but there are many stops and the guides will present history and
geographical information at each stop. Some of the stops include ski resorts, a famous bridge
that San Martin used on his route to free Chile from the Spanish, the Chilean border and some
interesting geological sites. I would recommend this over the one day stop to Puente Del Inca
unless you are really interested in climbing Aconcagua.
San Carlos de Bariloche
San Carlos de Bariloche, or as it is commonly referred to as just Bariloche, is a German inspired
city in Patagonia in the Andes. It is to Lake Tahoe as Mendoza is to Napa Valley. It is
surrounded by a National Park. It is Argentina’s Aspen because the rich Argentines take their
winter vacation there and ski the Catadral ski resort. Bariloche is at altitude and surrounded by
beautiful glacial lake
Due to the German influence there are many chocolate shops on the main street. Many offer free
chocolate samples. You might get confused that this is in the Alps due to the architecture. You’ll
even see plenty of St Bernard dogs and of course to get your picture with one, it will cost you.
The attractions are outside the city but it is serviced with a very efficient bus system. You don’t
even need correct change for the buses. It must be due to German efficiency. Get a city map and
bus map at the tourist booth. The buses are easy to use.
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Attractions
Cerro Campanario
Take a bus to Campanario. It is a major tourist attraction. You can’t miss it. There will be a
large sign out in front and probably some buses parked there. For a fee, you can take a ski lift to
the top where there is a building with guest services. You can also walk up a fairly step path to
the top. I hiked to the top checking out the views as they unveiled themselves. It will only take
about 20 to 30 minutes to get to the top depending on your physical conditioning.
The view from the top is amazing. You will have 360 degree panoramic view of mountains and
many azure blue glacial lakes. In the distance you will be able to find Bariloche. It doesn’t cost
to take the lift down.
LLAO-LLAO
Llao-llao is another national park. It has the most beautiful scenery that I have seen in all my
travels. The Hotel Llao LLao is a beautiful hotel and resort. If you have the money, then this is
the place to stay. Put it on your places to check out when in full vacation/splurge mode. There is
a beautiful golf course on the grounds. There is also a glacial lake for swimming, water skiing or
boating. You can’t explore the grounds unless you are a guest but just walking from the stop, past
the golf course and you will get the feeling of grandeur that it presents.
At the base of the driveway, turn left and follows the road for about a mile. One the right will be
a well groomed trail with a trailhead sign. Follow this path to Cerro Llao Llao. It’s marked out
for the guest. Climb to the top of the trail and enjoy more scenic Patagonia views.
It is possible to continue walking the road for another 3 or four miles to pick up another bus stop.
It is a big loop, too big too walk; OK to cycle though. There are more scenic stops and a hotel on
another lake that you can stop at for refreshments.
Other adventures, hiking, sailing, are offered in the tourist companies in the town. I used the time
to explore the city, do some hiking and relaxing by lakes.
Lodging
The city is a rich tourist city so accommodations are more expensive. Lonely Planet suggested
the International but it was worn out and not worth the value I changed to the New Andino hotel
which is new and very nice. It will cost about $150 pesos a night. One option that I check out but
wasn’t able to book was the Hostel 1004, so named because it resides on the 10th floor of a high
rise building. It has a great location and absolutely beautiful view. It is very popular so you will
need to book in advance. The ages of the guest ranged from young to old. It was a vibrant
community. It has a very well stocked kitchen
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Getting to Bariloche
The bus station is located just outside town. You could walk it once you are oriented with the city
but take a taxi. Plus after a long distance bus ride, approximately 24 hours from Mendoza, you
might not be up to orienting yourself and finding your hotel. A taxi is easy and cheap. If you do
decide to walk, stay along the lake and walk towards the town. You’ll run into Bariloche,
actually, you’ll be one block away from their main street if you stick along the lake.
The scenery from Mendoza to Bariloche is unremarkable; mostly dry flatlands until you start
approaching Bariloche. The bus will make stops in remote areas where you can purchase food or
drink. The bus will stop for about 15 minutes, enough to stretch your legs and get some food. I
bought some great coffee in nowhere Patagonia. The place looked more like a ghost town.
Maybe after 15 hours in a bus, my perspectives change and yours might too.
El Bolson
El Bolson is noted for its microbreweries and for being a hippy haven. Many American and
foreign hippies just settled here. It is also noted for white water rafting and mountain biking. I
had high hopes for the city, no pun intended. It is a small city based in the Andes with beautiful
mountain streams and bucolic farms surrounding it. The city itself is small. It has a decent
downtown with restaurants, bars, a large grocery store and even a bowling alley except it wasn’t
open when I was there.
One would think that the microbreweries would be located downtown but they are down dirt
roads slightly away from the town. That was disappointing.
On Wednesday, a artisan market is held in the town square. It is possible to purchase some nice
woodcarvings, artwork, jewelry and clothes.
Lodging
I stayed in a hostel, one I wouldn’t recommend. The keepers were nice but it was smoky and run
down. The name of the place is La Posada del Buscador. Behind the bus station and one block
away is the town common. There is a tourist booth there with a book listing all lodging options
with pictures and prices. Many places are located outside the city along the river or streams.
There are drawbacks to everything. Those are better lodging options but you will need to get a
ride or take a taxi to town.
Attractions
Hiking, cycling and river sports.
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Other Argentine Attractions
It is generally a clockwise or counter clock wise route around Argentina. If I had enough time I
would have continued south to Calafate, Puerto Madryn and Ushiaia and then worked my way up
the Chile coast.
El Chalten and the Fitzroy Range for trekking and hiking. El Chalten has no ATMs. Be advised.
Go to Calafate to see Petite Glacier.
Go to Puerto Madryn to see the ecological reserve with its penguins and wild life.
Ushuaia since it is the southernmost city in the world and a jump off point for the Antarctica but
be aware that any Antarctica trip is very expensive.
Argentina is the eight largest country in the world. There is much to see there. You are only
limited by time and money. Send a postcard ( but expect to wait in the post office for many
minutes and to pay an exorbitant fee for postage and have it take almost a month to arrive in the
state  )
Hyperlink References:
Buquebus http://www.buquebus.com/cache/HomeARG.html Ferry service from BsAs
Omnibus http://www.tebasa.com.ar/ Long distance bus service from BsAs
Plaza Alvear http://www.alvearpalace.com/v3/index.php Elegant hotel in BsAs
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes http://www.mnba.org.ar/
Malba Museum of Modern Arts http://www.malba.org.ar/web/home.php
Village Cines http://www.villagecines.com/village_recoleta/ cinema in Recoleta
The Tea Connection http://www.teaconnection.com.ar/ Good teas and sandwiches.
Pura Vida http://www.puravidabuenosaires.com/ fast food, health food
Un Altra Volta www.unaltravolta.com.ar/ Ice Cream
Apart Recoleta http://www.apartrecoleta.com.ar/ hotel in Recoleta. A little old and worn
Tangol http://www.tangol.com/esp/buenos_aires.aspx?Country=AR Soccer tickets and more
Plaza Dorrego http://www.buenostours.com/plaza-dorrego Antiques, artisans, street bands
Hostel 1004 http://www.lamoradahostel.com/1004_english.html Great hostel in Bariloche
Hotel Llao Llao http://www.llaollao.com/ing/ Elegant hotel in Bariloche, Patagonia
Footnotes:
1 Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Madero
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Urban Backpacking in Argentina

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