future 12
Transcription
future 12
FUTURE Pr THE PERFECTIONIST IAN GOODCHILD P THE PRESIDENT ERIK HALFACRE Vp THE VICEPRESIDENT DANIELLE INGWER Te Ss THE EXPERIMENTER THE SMOOTH SELLER BELLE BROOKE BARER BRIANA COLLINS 12 Ga THE GEMSTONE ARTIST JOHN DYER Dm THE DREAMER ELICHAI FOWLER BY E IL E E N M c C L E L L A N D ELEMENTS A GENERATION OF RISING YOUNG STARS is poised to lead the jewelry industry into the next phase of its existence. The careers of a dozen of them, ages 24 through 31, who represent a cross section of the business, are celebrated on the following pages. Tp Ti Dd En Bl THE PARTNER THE INNOVATOR THE DIAMOND DEALER THE ENTREPRENEUR THE BLOGGER RUSSELL KWIAT MEGAN THORNE MARIO MACIAS SHEA LEECH MICHAEL SCHECHTER WHATEVER INDUSTRY NICHE THEY OCCUPY, they are increasingly called upon to navigate a changing retail environment influenced by the Internet, and they tend to seek each other out in an effort to share and learn. The jewelry industry is a fragmented momand-pop kind of industry with a certain way of thinking about business,” says Russell Kwiat, a 30-year-old partner with Kwiat. “We need to adapt to a changing environment and a modern environment. My generation is living and breathing the Internet and socialnetworking sites. So certainly we can be more aligned and attuned to the new customer.” There is a sense that the industry overall is becoming less secretive and more collaborative, due in part to the changing notions of privacy associated with social networking. Mario Macias, 30, founder of the 188-member Young Jewelers Association and a diamond dealer with Atlantic Diamonds, sees barriers crashing all around him. “The old-school mentality is you just don’t talk to anybody,” Macias says. “We do share a lot of information, and I think the industry’s better for it.” Megan Thorne, 29, a designer in Fort Worth, TX, has found support among her peers. “It’s better for all of us whenever someone grows and does better.” People launching their careers or their businesses are likely to want to learn from one another, she says. “The newer your company, the more collaborative you are, the more you are hoping to connect with other people.” Michael Schechter, 30, director of digital marketing for his family business, Honora in New York, is a board member of Gen-Next Jewelers. One goal of the networking group, he says, is to bridge the conversational gap between man70 APRIL 2010 ufacturers and retailers. “There are a lot of challenges facing our industry,” Schechter says. “The more open conversations we have, the better off we’re going to be. It would be ridiculous to say it’s only for people of a certain age or at a certain position. It’s open to anyone who wants to have a conversation about the direction of the industry.” Kwiat of New York, a founding member of Gen-Next Jewelers, says he hopes the group can work together to shape the industry. “I’d like Gen-Next to become the conversational medium for the new generation of people who will run or be influential in the businesses, the best thinkers in our industry. We can be the voice of the industry,” Kwiat says. The Young Jewelers Association, organized as a local group by Chicagobased Macias, has gone global due to the ease of Internet communication. “We keep in touch through Facebook and we pick each other’s brains,” Macias says. “Officially, the age cap is 35, but we take anyone willing to think in a different manner.” “We do share a lot of information, and I think the industry’s better for it.” — Mario Macias Macias says because young jewelers often work for someone else, it may be difficult to meet other “worker bees” without such a group. “The YJA provides an atmosphere where you can do face-to-face social networking, fostering new friendships and business partners for the future,” Macias says. Erik Halfacre, 30-year-old president of Traditional Jewelers in Newport Beach and Malibu, CA, says that he and his contemporaries who grew up in family businesses have long sought out one another at industry events, creating an informal support group. “We may see each other four or five or six times a year and can cement deeprooted friendships and build those relationships into business relationships, too,” he says. “It’s nice to have a sounding board. We all deal with the same end consumer, so it’s important to know the wholesale side, too.” For designers, a changing environment has already had an impact. “I’m the worst when it comes to new ways of communicating; when it comes to Twitter and all that stuff, I am probably like an 80-year-old woman,” Thorne says. “But I notice that many jewelers are growing their brands that way, getting customers still in their teens.” Having young leadership is no guarantee a business will be immersed in Internet sales and marketing. The usual obstacles still exist. Halfacre says his company is “putting a toe in the water” of nontraditional marketing. He knows more needs to be done, but it requires a strategy and a time commitment. “It’s something you can’t fake, so if you are going to do it, you have to do it right,” he says. In addition, few people in traditional brick-and-mortar stores, no matter their age, want to risk what has been a successful business model in favor of e-commerce. “The challenge for the jewelry industry,” Halfacre says, “is to find a happy medium.” That is one theme Gen-Next Jewelers frequently discusses. “We are trying to figure it out,” Schechter says. “How do we keep the relationships we have but make sure that our industry doesn’t get left behind?” THE EXPERIMENTER JEWELRY DESIGNER BELLE BROOKE BARER, 31, of LA, says her career has been shaped as much by failure as success. Her first trade show — The San Francisco Gift Fair — for example, she describes as disastrous. Te THE EXPERIMENTER 1 B EL LE B RO O K E BAR E R, 31 2008 Best New Designer at JANY, studied photography in college, began selling jewelry at farmers markets TODD PRITCHETT JDVVC – CREATIVE VISUAL SOLUTIONS “I did everything completely wrong,” she says. “On the second day, I was in the aisle taking apart and rearranging my booth, which was really bad etiquette. I was freaking out. It was horrible. But it was a great learning experience. The things that have been the most meaningful for me, in terms of character-building and challenging myself, have been all of the failures.” There have been notable successes, too. In 2007 she won a businessdevelopment grant that gave her a shot of confidence and publicity. In 2008 she was named best new designer of the year at JANY. Jewelry was always a hobby. While studying photography in college, she made and sold jewelry at a farmers market. After college, she reconsidered her career, quitting a photography job to make jewelry full-time and then returning to school for professional training. She worked as a goldsmith before launching her own business, Belle Brooke Designs, in Los Angeles. Photography continues to exert an influence. “When I began designing the collections, I wanted something that had all the characteristics I liked in photography — contrast, form and strong lines. I wanted to add a threedimensional element. I think my jewelry has all of those elements I liked about classical black and white photography.” She is also inspired by early 20thcentury industrial objects and factories — ideally rusting or falling apart. And by textbook-depictions of microorganisms. “A lot of things we build and make are modeled on nature,” she says. Barer’s latest collection has an art-deco look that features large, colorful stones and marquise and pear-shaped semi-precious cabochons. She wants to keep the business small and personal. “I strongly, strongly believe in manufacturing in America, in keeping jobs here. I don’t think I’ll ever outsource to China, and if I do, I should be shot.” “Instead of just carrying major brands, people who are opening up stores or looking to expand are moving toward young designers.” 72 APRIL 2010 BRIANA COLLINS, 25, has been a million-dollar sales star at Collins Family Jewelers in San Diego, CA, since she graduated from college three years ago. “I was lucky to be born into something that I truly love doing,” says Collins, who worked briefly in a pizza place before her dad hired her on at age 16. At that age, she says — exaggerating just a little — she didn’t know the Ss THE SMOOTH SELLER 2 B R I A NA CO LL I N S, 25 Million-dollar seller, hired in family’s store at 16, previous experience at a pizza parlour CARESSE MUIR, MUIR IMAGES PHOTOGRAPHY THE SMOOTH SELLER difference between a wedding band and a watchband. These days she’s buying and selling. Selling makes buying easier, she says. “I know what people are asking for and I’m really true to myself and true to our store. We love trying new lines, but I won’t try it if it’s not something that’s a good fit for us. I want to minimize costs and streamline inventory, focus on core lines that are easy for us to convey to a customer and move. I feel like I’ve really trimmed the fat.” When it comes to sales, she prefers an informal, conversational style to a formula. She enjoys exceeding customers’ expectations about her youth as well as the jewelry business. JOHN DYER, 31, has exhibited an entrepreneurial spirit ever since he sold donuts as a street vendor in Brazil, where he lived as a homeschooled teenager with his missionary family. “It helped me get comfortable dealing with people because donuts were not a known product in Brazil,” Dyer says. “I had to create a market for them. That was a very helpful maturing process.” When the family returned to the States, his father, David, helped 16-yearold John, who was fascinated by the compact beauty of gemstones, pursue his interest as a career. “My dad didn’t have a job after coming back from the mission field,” Dyer explains. “We got some gems on memo from a guy and tried 74 APRIL 2010 But while she likes to try new things she respects important traditions, such as writing every thank-you note by hand. Some of Collins’ clients visit several times a month. Her secret? “I treat every single person like they are my friend. Many of them have never been treated like that before in a retail setting. When you open your heart up to them, they trust you and come to you for everything. At my college graduation party, my customers outnumbered my family members.” THE GEMSTONE ARTIST to sell them without a great deal of success. So we decided to go overseas and buy them ourselves in an effort to get them at a better price.” A trip to Zambia turned into a misadventure. Jealous African gem dealers accused them of buying stolen goods and tried to have them arrested. Fortunately, they had obtained official permission to be there and to buy gems. Ga THE GEMSTONE ARTIST 3 JOHN DYE R, 3 1 Has awards from AGTA & IdarOberstein, sold donuts on the street in Brazil, was almost arrested in Zambia LYDIA DYER Finding that few cut gems were available in Zambia, though, the Dyers had to buy rough, ranging in quality from good to fake. “Going to Zambia wasn’t superlucrative, but it got me into cutting because we had these rough gemstones which we had no idea how to sell as rough,” he says. “By the grace of God that’s what got us into cutting, which has become our real forte and niche in the market.” Dyer, who is completely self-taught, has been winning annual AGTA Cutting Edge awards since 2002. In 2009, he also added a trophy from Idar-Oberstein, Germany, to his collection. “I like the challenge — buying the best rough I can, examining it and coming up with the best possible use of each piece. It’s a design challenge.” WHEN ELICHAI FOWLER, 31, spent time in Israel between high school and college, he had a revelation. THE DREAMER “Something strange happened to me,” he says. “When I tried to sleep at night I would close my eyes and start to see images of jewelry and gems I had never seen before. The only way to eliminate it was to get up and sketch what I had seen. To me it was almost like a sign or a confirmation.” It confirmed his decision to study metalsmithing at the University of Bozeman. In high school, he had done some welding and ironwork with his dad, which produced a sword and some knives, “weapons, like a typical teenager would do.” While in college, he also studied engraving. “I carved wood as a child and engraving is like carving metal. That was the most exciting class I ever took.” In 2005 he started Paradise Ring Works of Livingston, MT, which is primarily retail. In 2009 alone, that business grew 47 percent. “I have a real passion for quality and craftsmanship. I spend very little on advertising and my business has almost doubled every year since I started. It’s word of mouth, a focus on customer service and heirloom-quality craftsmanship.” Eli has noticed a revival of interest in craftsmanship and quality. “My goal is to make unique jewelry designed so well that it will be passed down and valued and enjoyed after I’m gone. Working as an appraiser, Dm 4 THE DREAMER E LICHAI FOWLE R, 3 1 Business grew 47% in 2009, wants to revive heirloomquality craftsmanship EUBANK PHOTOGRAPHY I’ve seen so many pieces that come in and are melted down. It’s the craftsmanship pieces that don’t get melted down. Those are the pieces that people love and want to hang on to. I want to build pieces that last, that are built to be worn through a lifetime.” “My goal is to make unique jewelry designed so well that it will be passed down and valued and enjoyed after I’m gone.” 76 APRIL 2010 IAN GOODCHILD, 24, began his career as a bench jeweler six years ago, when he walked in off the street into Joel McFadden Designs in Red Bank, NJ, to see if McFadden had any job openings — and then asked what was involved in the work. “I had sort of a rough idea,” says Goodchild, whose primary motivation was to escape restaurant work. THE PERFECTIONIST Goodchild worked part-time until he got to the point where he “wasn’t going to start wrecking stuff,” as he puts it. McFadden, sensing potential, sent Goodchild to the New Approach School for Jewelers, where he learned the basics from Blaine Lewis. Everything else, McFadden taught Goodchild — or Goodchild learned on his own. He has become known throughout the industry as a platinum expert. Goodchild grew up on a farm, where he had used welding torches and had done steel-fabrication work. “Joel found out I liked running a torch and was good at it. I kept at it and within a year or two I had more experience than everyone else there. It takes a lot of patience. You have to be able to sit there and chase the little imperfections until they go away. A lot of people have issues Pr THE PERFECTIONIST IAN GOODCHILD, 24 Got his start at 18, motivation then: to escape restaurant work, motivation now: perfection TERRI BLAIR 78 APRIL 2010 5 “It takes a lot of patience. A lot of people have issues with that.” with that. They want to call it good enough and just stop there.” Goodchild says his occupation suits his style, since he usually has enough time to make it perfect. “But there are aggravating moments when something goes wrong and you swear at the piece until it behaves itself. And some stuff can get a little tedious. Over Christmas, we built an Asscher-cut necklace with 116 tiny little platinum links that all had to be finished. It took about four weeks but it was very impressive. Most of my friends have desk jobs or join the Army or whatever. To actually be able to make things is becoming a lost art.” THE PRESIDENT ERIK HALFACRE, 30, president of Traditional Jewelers in Newport Beach and Malibu, CA, practically was born in the family store. “People tell me they remember seeing me in the baby swing,” says Halfacre, whose parents and extended family founded the business. P THE PRESIDENT ERIK H A L FAC RE, 30 Worked his way from baby swing to president’s office, steered family’s store through the recession COURTESY OF TRADITIONAL JEWELERS 6 At age 16, he was asked to deliver a $50,000 necklace to a customer in Santa Barbara. Worried about driving three hours with a new driver’s license and a piece that valuable, he took two puddle-jumper planes and a cab instead. But he didn’t always work in the business. “I was leery of coming into the business at such a young age, so my first “When I came in here it was at the bottom of the pickle barrel, and I worked my way up.” job out of college was doing internships at other places,” he recalls. “So it wasn’t just ‘Here’s the owner’s son; hand him the keys.’ When I came in here it was at the bottom of the pickle barrel, so to speak, and I worked my way up.” Nearly three years ago, Erik’s dad, Marion, died suddenly at age 58. Erik worked with his family to get through that tough time, soon exacerbated by what he characterizes as the worst economy in the history of time. “To go through these rough waters and come through them is my proudest moment in the business. I got married the year my father passed and experienced the birth of my first child. There’s been a lot of growing up I’ve had to do to earn trust.” To navigate the recession, Halfacre has gone more aggressively after the bridal market than in years past. He’s also streamlined inventory. “I most enjoy the interaction with people. To be in sales, to do what we do, is a people business. I want to be out on the floor and be the extrovert that I am, not sit in a cubicle somewhere and crunch numbers.” DANIELLE INGWER, 31, VP of marketing and technology for Leo Ingwer, enjoys her job most when she thinks of the celebrations and happy occasions that come from her behind-the-scenes efforts. THE VICE PRESIDENT Leo Ingwer sells finished diamond jewelry to the trade as well as under the Leo Ingwer name. Leo, Danielle’s grandfather, began the company as a small midtown shop in 1939. “Occasionally I’ll work in our showroom where our customers bring in their customers, or I help my own friends who are getting engaged. That, to me, is the best part of my job, but that’s a bonus, it’s not my everyday job.” The nutsand-bolts part is devising a workflow system that will add interactivity to the company’s recently redesigned website, for which she was also project manager. She is one of six family members in the business, including her father, who has worked in the business nearly 40 years. “I wanted to go to college and create my own path. So I studied fashion design and designed dresses Vp THE VICE PRESIDENT 7 DANIE LLE INGWE R, 3 1 Treasurer of NYC WJA, studied fashion design, plays guitar, can’t sing. DON KOZUSKO, DK PHOTOIMAGING INC. 82 82 APRIL APRIL 20102010 in the garment district. But shortly after my grandfather passed away, I realized that working with my family was more of an opportunity than I originally thought. It was the best thing I ever did.” What’s next for Ingwer? “In the broad sense, I want to continue my grandfather’s name and legacy in the manner befitting his memory while also working with other family members to continue the business, to grow it and to hand it down to another generation of Ingwers. In the short term, I try to reach as many retailers as possible, and help them to understand their customers.” Ingwer is treasurer of the New York City metro chapter of the Women’s Jewelry Association, she loves playing tennis and baking, and recently began learning to play the guitar. “It’s like learning a different language,” she says. “My first song was Hey Jude. Now I’m learning Stand By Me. But I cannot sing.” Russell Kwiat, 30, hit the road after college. But it wasn’t to backpack across Europe. He became a road warrior for Kwiat, his family business. THE PARTNER Tp THE PARTNER RUSSE LL KWIAT, 30 Founding member of Gen-Next Jewelers, studied history, started in jewelry as a traveling salesman FRED MARCUS PHOTOGRAPHY 84 84 APRIL APRIL 20102010 8 “I got out on the road and started calling on accounts and began really understanding the retail side of things,” Kwiat recalls. “It brought a whole new perspective. A lot of it was being managed from the office and decisions were being made by people who had only a broad understanding of retail. “ Kwiat had a much better understanding of the business when he returned to settle down in New York. He was well equipped to put together a stronger distribution network as a result. Looking back even now, he thinks, it would be tough to live that lifestyle. “I didn’t have much responsibility in the office. I’m married now and I wasn’t at the time.” These days, as a partner, he primarily handles sales and wholesale distribution. Joining the family business was always a possibility, but he pursued a liberal-arts education, studying history at the University of Pennsylvania, while considering law school. “I didn’t really receive too much pressure from the family. One of the summers, my senior year in high school, I worked here full-time and started playing with the diamonds, holding them, and I fell in love with diamonds. When I actually began to touch and feel the product, that’s when I said to myself, ‘This is what I want to do.’” Kwiat is one of five family members in the fourth generation of the business and a founding member of Gen-Next Jewelers. He’s also active in Court Appointed Special Advocates, a charity sponsored by Jewelers for Children, which shepherds kids through the foster system and helps them find permanent homes. Ti THE INNOVATOR MEGAN THORNE, 29, of Fort Worth, TX, a former lingerie designer, surprised herself when she took a metalworking class and felt comfortable using the tools. “I will be the first person to sew a finger to the sewing machine, but I can handle a torch,” she says. Thorne studied fashion design in college and then worked for a company in Florida owned by two women who were about 30 years old. It made her realize where she wanted to be “I started my bridal line specifically because my friends are starting to get married.” THE INNOVATOR 9 M EGAN T H O R N E, 2 9 at their age. Deciding fashion was overcrowded with young, creative people, she began looking toward jewelry, her true love. “I thought I should do something that I thought wasn’t as competitive,” she says, with a laugh. “It was a good career move, but maybe a naïve one, thinking it wouldn’t be saturated with great designers.” Thorne believes designers coming to jewelry from other careers are in a good position to be innovative. “I’m not tied to any historical way of doing things,” she says. Inspiration comes from fabrics. “I have an obscene amount of fabric in my little sewing room. I collect books on antique laces. I also look to architecture, metalwork and those kinds of things.” Thorne says her age allows her to have intimate insight into the Former lingerie designer, jewelry inspiration comes from fabrics NATHALIE SCHWARZ needs of a specific jewelry market. “I started my bridal line specifically because my friends are starting to get married. The need wasn’t abstract or driven by a business plan or model. It was actual. Girls my age are getting engaged. I feel especially plugged into the desires of that demographic because I am essentially designing for myself and my friends.” Thorne enjoys developing an open dialogue with the retailers who carry her designs. “I’m not so interested in having a million accounts,” she says. “I hand make all the pieces and I plan to keep everything produced right here in Texas.” THE DIAMOND DEALER THE STAKES WERE HIGH FOR MARIO MACIAS, 30, a diamond dealer for Atlantic Diamond Co. He recently put all of his expertise to the ultimate test when he designed an engagement ring for his bride, Jenelle Klemz. “The ring shopping was nervewracking because I’ve heard so many stories about what my clients go through; here I was knowing all I did about diamonds and I didn’t want to be that picky guy dissecting things, but I couldn’t have a run-of-the-mill ring, either, because I’m in the industry,” he recalls. 86 APRIL 2010 He chose a fancy yellow diamond and designed a detailed, engraved platinum setting with a floral motif to show it off. “I told a friend of mine that this is my Picasso, this is my Eiffel Tower.” Macias developed an interest in diamonds when he sold jewelry for a friend who had invested in a pawnshop. “I had a tremen- Dd THE DIAMOND DEALER MARIO MACIAS, 3 0 Founded the Young Jewelers Association, trains in jujitsu RUSS HADZIABDIC 10 dous thirst to learn more about diamonds,” he says. After a year, he attended the GIA and graduated with a GG. In 2005, Macias went to work for Atlantic, and in 2006, he founded the Young Jewelers Association. “We try to network and be social in a non-selling environment, so people’s guards are down. You never know where your next job might come from or when you might need a source for a rare pink diamond.” In his spare time, Macias is training in Brazilian jujitsu, to get in shape for his April 17 wedding in Mexico. And the ring? “Jenelle loves it. She gets compliments all the time.” APRIL 2010 87 SHEA LEECH, 30, owner of J Shea Jewelers in Abilene, TX, first broke into business as a teenager selling gel-filled insoles in the mall. He called his kiosk Shea’s Hydro Feet. THE ENTREPRENEUR En THE ENTREPRENEUR 11 SHEA LE ECH, 3 0 Former owner of Shea’s Hydro Feet, started jewelry store at age 19, grew 20% in 2009, is on track to retire at 48 PAULA GILMORE PHOTOGRAPHY That effort funded the next, in which the youth pastor and community-college student sold religious jewelry. When mall rent shot up as the holidays approached, he did his own market research for a permanent location, staking out local strip centers and counting cars. With a $730 deposit, at age 19, he claimed his retail space, then bought 27 cases from a mall store that was remodeling. No bank would give him a loan, but he had cash enough to fill 10 cases and opened the store within days of closing the kiosk, after his mom and stepdad helped him repaint. Three hundred people attended the grand opening. In 2004, he repainted, added lights and crown molding, got married and began thinking about CAD/CAM. “My age had always been a deterrent until then. I thought I was young enough to learn this. It turned out, though, that my wife is the whiz at CAD/CAM. I’m a salesman more than anything.” In 2005, he bought Gemvision’s Matrix and created a local niche for himself. Leech has competitors in Abilene but he sets himself apart with CAD/ CAM, promotes his own brand and advertises honesty with a lifetime service agreement and handwritten thank-you cards. In 2009, he experienced 20 percent growth. He is on track to retire at 48. “If you’re willing to work, mountains can move. I credit my faith, but you can’t just sit back and say, ‘God help me.’” “I thought I was young enough to learn CAD/ CAM. It turned out, though, my wife is the whiz.” 88 APRIL 2010 THE BLOGGER FOR MICHAEL SCHECHTER, 30, of Honora in New York City, the jewelry industry is one big family. And although he was born into it, he knew by age 12, it was where he belonged. “I watched my grandfather and my father, and I wanted to be a part of that,” he says. “I do love how tightknit our industry is. The same people my father came up with acted as mentors to me. It’s an industry of family businesses. We, as an industry, are a giant family business, in some respects.” Officially, he joined the business at 19 after graduating from the GIA. “I started in operations, learning the soup to nuts of how product moves,” he says. Now, as director of digital marketing, he oversees the company’s Web presence, from honora.com to e-mail marketing and social networking. He has nearly 4,000 followers on Twitter and is active on Facebook. “Who we are as a company is expressed by what we do on the Web,” he says. “It’s a real pleasure to oversee that and connect with the people who are passionate about our pearls,” he says. He creates goodwill by thanking everyone who mentions the company on Facebook or Twitter. Honora got its feet wet in the world of online promotion by starting a blog that included information about freshwater pearls, Honora’s designer and how he chooses color combinations, and even how to find the perfect earring look — essentially, anything customers might be interested in (not “buy this now!” content). “It doesn’t have to be about your brand always,” he says. “It’s about building community and having fun.” To reach young consumers, Schechter says, it’s important to “fish where they fish.” In other words, become more familiar with the technologies and how they buy. Make sure the demographic is represented in your staff, too. And above all, talk to them. “Guessing what they want rather than talking to them about what they want doesn’t work. We want to evolve our products to meet their needs.” Bl THE BLOGGER 12 M I CH AE L SC HEC HT ER , 3 0 Board member of Gen-Next Jewelers, joined Honora at 19, has 4,000 Twitter followers DAMIEN SANDONE