Lucire May 2004

Looking
abroad
Kiwi designers
think globally
may 2004
The circuit
Autumn–
winter ’04–5
from Dunedin,
New York,
Barcelona,
Montréal, Lisboa
On the
inside
Claws out! It’s
New York
Fashion Week
Brent
Lawler
The hairstylist on
top of the World
How suite
it
is
California pampering
Jennifer
Siebel
Helping the
world in
Hollywood
Being global
05
nz$9·45 incl gst
www.lucire.com
issn 1175-7515
http://lucire.com
1
9 771175 575100
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lu c ir e m ay 2004
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5
FASHION NOW
Bags of difference
F
unky bags are the ticket for this
month. We can go seasons without a decent bag story at Lucire,
because designers just aren’t
interested in them or consumers
are quite happy choosing between the
Hermès Kelly (for those without cellphone)
or Hermès Birkin (for those with a cellphone
and wanting to show off a copy of Lucire poking out), but then all of a sudden we’re detecting something in the air. It began last year with
Alek Wek and her 1933 line of handbags and
a line inspired by the late Jerry Garcia of the
Grateful Dead from Vetrina Arte. It’s as though
the old classics go far—not to mention some
of the new classics from Prada, the Lady Dior
and the Tom Ford-resurrected Gucci bag—but
now it’s time for something to go with our
twenty-first-century lifestyles.
There’s a little bit more to this. In 2004,
we’ve detected another trend: the move from
being sexy to being sensual. The world probably had had enough when a Gucci advertisement showed pubic hair in the shape of the
brand’s G and catwalk fashions have been
more about details and subtlety than screaming, ‘Look at me.’
But we still want to be looked at. So to cover
all bases, some designers have seized upon
the idea of letting the bag or handbag do the
talking. Even when a handbag screams, ‘Look
at me,’ it’s never as overbearing or overwhelming as a dress doing the same.
One of the most distinctive ranges has been
from self-taught Croatian designer Daniel
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Habjanic. He creates all his own templates
from his own designs. The wooden ornaments
are hand-made. But if that didn’t make Habjanic’s work distinctive enough, there’s one more
aspect that will please the earth-conscious:
they are made out of recycled paper.
Based in Zagreb, 35-year-old Habjanic began making his bags two years ago when his
wife wanted a bag to go with her new dress.
Showing that ingenious solutions aren’t the
province of farmers armed with number-eight
wire, Habjanic set to work.
These were initially gifts and were sold at his
toy shop, toy marketing being a family business.
This isn’t a case of simple papier mâché:
there is gluing and knitting as well. As Habjanic
told Lucire, ‘Each paper thread is rolled up
manually and all wood details are hand-made.
[The] thread [is] made from paper refuse. I produce it all by myself, without any assistance.’
He even has a line in aluminium, also made
from refuse metal parts.
In Croatia, his designs have already received
acclaim, in the local edition of Glamour and at
Zagreb Fashion Week. He almost made it in
the us, too, at a New York accessories’ show,
but for a problem at customs: officials didn’t
believe they were made of paper and had
them promptly sent back.
Habjanic’s inspiration comes from nature
and rock ’n’ roll—regardless of the material,
they are among the funkiest we’ve seen.
Funky could be an adjective levelled at June
Nevin, the designer behind the new Molly N
range publicly launched by tv celebrity Hilary
top: From the Molly N range: the Nippon
(top left) and the Osaka (centre). Hair: L’Oréal
Professionnel A.Head Glue Structurizing Hair
Gel; Pli Thermo-fixing Spray Thick Hair; Air Fix
Instant Fixing Spray. On the face: Estée Lauder
Lucidity Transluscent Powder in Translucent;
L’Oréal Paris Wear Infinite Eye Shadow in Smoky
Eyes and Forest; Blush Delice in Sugar Plum;
Idéal Balance Quickstick Balancing Foundation
in Soft Ivory; Clinique High Impact Mascara
in black; Yves Saint Laurent Touche d’Éclat;
Nutrimetics Glossy Shine Lip Laquer in Sienna
Magic. Clothes by Juno. top right: A closeup of Lisa Ann Tardrew’s new bag, showing
the one-season-only butterfly design. above:
Funky and eco-aware, Daniel Habjanic’s
recycled paper handbags.
lu c ir e m ay 2004
MOLLY N PHOTOGRAPHS: JACK YAN; STYLED BY SIMONE KNOL; MAKE-UP BY EDWARD HODGES; MODELLED BY
INGRID KENNEDY. PRODUCT-ONLY PHOTOS COURTESY THE DESIGNERS
Jack Yan on the trend toward more expressive handbags
www.panos.com
http://lucire.com
35
FASHION NOW
right: Detail from
the Lisa Ann Tardrew
overnight bag,
showing the season’s
Cable Bay Blue.
below: The designer
and the overnight bag.
below right: Lisa
Tardrew.
Timmins in Auckland, New Zea- Lisa Tardrew: full interview Italian leather we’ve seen.
land in February.
With a mission of creating
www.lucire.com/lp.html (coming in May)
Molly N had hitherto been
‘Thoughtful designs for thinking
a shoe range only, designed
women,’ Nevin’s Japanese-inLisa Ann Tardrew
for the woman who wanted
spired collection for autumn–
www.latardrew.com
something more casual but
winter has wonderful details
still stylish. She had found
such as a magnetic strip at the
J. Garcia range from Vetrina
her niche understanding that
top of her Bonsi design, so that
Arte
Kiwi lifestyle is quite different
the bag closes properly. The fit
www.lucire.com/2003a/
0415ll0.htm
from the Europeans’. Similarly,
is astonishingly good, with the
antipodean handbags must
magnetism ensuring a quick
Alek Wek 1933 range
be more practical as well as
close in case a man’s hands
www.lucire.com/2003a/
comfortable to wear, with easy
come too near—after all, the
0630ll0.htm
access and viewing into the
handbag is one preserve where
bag. And consequently, these
the male must not venture.
aren’t in recycled paper, but some of the best
We nicknamed her Nippon clutch bag ‘the
Mondrian bag’ when we did our shoot here:
the solid colours and geometry of the pattern
reminded us of the artist’s work.
Her Tokyo features a prominent red dot—or
is it a rising sun?—while the cute Osaka, which
sold Lucire when researching this story, blends
the dotty idea with red, turquoise and white
stripes, saying emphatically that funky is very
2004. Now try imagining that on a dress. It
works in the handbag context.
Similarly, Auckland-based Australian
émigrée Lisa Tardrew has come up with a
self-named Lisa Ann Tardrew range, with
quality as the aim.
Tardrew came to New Zealand two years
ago and fell in love with the country, identifying with the nation and the Māori culture. Prior
to that she had been at Young & Rubicam in
Melbourne and later had her own business
selling imported handbags to major Australian
retailers including Lisa Ho and Grace Brothers.
In keeping with the season’s quieter designs, Tardrew has opted to keep her work
subtle. The overall shapes of her day satchel
and overnight bag are trusted. But in this luxury
niche—the day satchel goes for nz$950 plus
gst and the overnight bag for nz$1,900 plus
gst—it’s unwise to shout or go too pop-art.
Tardrew’s hallmark is her monarch butterfly motif. The bags—and a nz$150 leather
cuff—have a seasonal butterfly pattern which
will never be repeated once 200 of each design has been made.
This season, it’s Cable Bay Blue, named for
a beach in Northland, New Zealand, a place
which Tardrew finds especially inspiring.
The butterflies set the designs apart, so they
do shout more than if Tardrew had picked a
less interesting leather. Therefore, someone
who is like Tardrew—stylish, creative and confident—won’t need to rely on clothing to make
a statement when all the talking can be done
by a Lisa Ann Tardrew day satchel or overnight
bag. And they’d be saying, ‘Look at me, but if
you’re not a genuine person, forget it.’ Believe
me, we men notice. •
Zippo’s Italian job
The Italians, who have been making some of the best bags, are
well aware of the power of brands and how each is positioning itself
in certain lifestyles. Zippo was one of the more unexpected ones
that we saw at our offices this month.
The Bradford, Pa. cigarette lighter company felt its brand was so
valuable that it bought a Vicenza-based company, ddm Italia, which
had been marketing a line of handbags, belts and wallets under the
Zippo name (left).
As of April, ddm became Zippo Fashion Italia, which means that Zippo is now officially a
Euro-fashion company. When you think about its trendy, triangular lighter, it’s been involved
in the fashion business for a long time.
Meanwhile, Dooney & Bourke has been selling its ‘It bags’ for two seasons. The teenage-directed line was launched with Mischa Barton of The OC as its signature face, and
now it’s Peyton List from cbs’s As the World Turns (above right). Our view: they’re too nice
for just the Teen Vogue brigade. Check out www.dooney.com.—Jack Yan
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lu c ir e m ay 2004
CLOSE-UP: COURTESY LISA ANN TARDREW; JACK YAN; ZIPPO MFG. CO.; DOONEY & BOURKE/ATELIER
World view
www.panos.com
http://lucire.com
37
FASHION THE SCENE
Earth-bound
The world’s fashion trends are returning to more natural
tones. We see it globally, so staying with the earthy shades
of Mother Nature is a good bet for the month ahead
compiled by Kathryn O’Sullivan
with Stevie Wilson and Lucire staff
T
here are plenty of suggestions
on the catwalks and in the news that
we need to be aware of Mother Earth.
There’s Earth Day in late April, not to
mention plenty of alerts issued by places
such as the United Nations Environment
Programme and Conservation International. For instance, the average extinction rate
is now some 1,000–10,000 times faster than
the rate that prevailed over the past 60 million
years.
It’s how we’re seeing some of the following
season’s trends around the world.
If you happen to be Down Under, one side of
this look—the earth–desert look—should be
hitting the stores now.
The great irony is that these wintry shades
often go with fur. Some of the big names—Julien Macdonald, Fendi and Lawrence Steele
among them—decided to aim for a more
affluent clientèle as the western economy improves. Still, we managed to find some pleasing solutions from Trelise Cooper, Zambesi
and numerous antipodeans, not to mention
some sexy looks from La Fer and sandals from
Gianni Bini.
Zambesi wasn’t named for
anything African—it was just
a good name. However, this
season sees this Circus
skirt in Cougar that has a
taste of the Dark Continent—
not to mention a taste of
luxury. This caught our eye on
the racks at Zambesi, going at
nz$240.
This winter On the catwalk this season—get ahead with
our selection by hedging your bets carefully. Camel shades at
Bill Blass, with Michael Volbracht’s début collection (top);
Rafael Lopez at London Fashion Week with fox-tail detail
(above left); a tastefully infused riding theme at Alvin Valley
(above right).
For those venturing northward to warmer climes, the
earthy look still resonates. La Fer has this Go Fish
triangle and hipster set with a fish buckle which we found
at us$102 at Canyon Beachwear.
Also at Zambesi was
this Steeplechase
skirt in Tobacco
(nz$270) that we could
easily complement with
the same brand’s Easy
Rider jacket (see next
page).
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lu c ir e m ay 2004
The Zambesi Débutante top in
Bronze (nz$340) and the Easy Rider
jacket from the same label in Cherokee (nz$1,925) in Italian lambskin—
both are among the must-haves for
the southern winter and pair well with
other items for the season.
The Starfish Persian silk halter
in Teddy Boy is a fun, cheerful
addition to the autumn–winter
’04 look at nz$298. We also
spotted a stunning Laurie
Foon Dandy Dress in
Cameo at the same store from
the same designers. Laurie
Foon is the more upmarket
signature line, but we were
pleasantly surprised to see it go
for nz$348. Visit www.starfish.
co.nz.
Fur sure Also spotted:
Julien Macdonald at London
Fashion Week and Lawrence
Steele at Moda di Milano, taking
similar directions colour-wise for
winter.
OPPOSITE PAGE: KATHRYN O’SULLIVAN; BILL BLASS BY CHERYL GORSKI/CHERYL GORSKI PHOTOGRAPHY FOR
LUCIRE; SAGA FURS OF SCANDINAVIA; ALVIN VALLEY; LA FER. THIS PAGE: KATHRYN O’SULLIVAN; SAGA FURS OF
SCANDINAVIA; TRELISE COOPER BY MICHAEL NG/LNZFW; LA FER; LABELS OR RESPECTIVE PR COMPANIES.
Every now and then,
the James Bond theme
creeps in to collections. That was true
at Barcelona’s Jota
Mas Ge, which based
its autumn–winter ’04
eveningwear on Diamonds Are Forever, the
movie, not the book.
For spring, La Fer has
called this halter the
Bond Girl and the hipster has a suede belt to
complement it (us$108
at Canyon Beachwear).
Gianni Bini’s Amy sandals are a
mid-priced, contemporary design from
Dillard’s. Fun and chunky, they suit the
structured look for the season.
The perfect complement to the
season: a citrine ring from Jewelry by Rosalina. The candy
colours have strong appeal, and
we’ll be covering it in an online
spring jewellery special in Lucire,
online. Available at Neiman–Marcus Bal Harbour.
Christian Tse is inspired by real life
when he creates his designs, yet his
design style is architectural. These
platinum mesh earrings mightn’t have
the shades we’re discussing, but
they do have a look that suggests a
tribute to ancient cultures. More in
our spring jewellery special, but if
you need retail information, call (free in
the us) 1 888 688-1988.
http://lucire.com
Easily one of the standout autumn–winter 2004
collections at the last
L’Oréal New Zealand Fashion Week, Trelise Cooper’s Powerful Women
of Myths and Legends
collection—one based
around icons, goddesses
and historical women and
we called it her best yet
last October—showcased
several of our favourite
coats. These are in-store
now in Australia and New
Zealand and heading to
the us. We spotted a
great selection of Trelise
Cooper designs at Unity
Collection. Visit www.
trelisecooper.com for
more info.
Lucire jewellery special
Stevie Wilson’s spring 2004 jewellery
special coming in May: check out www.
lucire.com/lp.shtml for details
39
FASHION THE SCENE
A dash of pink
There’s something about pink (right through to
purple) this season, too, regardless of where you are.
In the stores, particularly in the us, be prepared to see
plenty of it for spring–summer
compiled by Kathryn O’Sullivan and Lucire staff
W
e noticed a lot of pinks
when we were covering the spring–summer
2004 shows last September, on both coasts
of the United States and
in Montréal as well. The
commercial theory is that there is a segment
that wishes to feel feminine (the part that loves
Nanette Lepore) or feminine and fun (those
who love Betsey Johnson). Montréal editor
Susan Kelly has seen it in the stars for a while
(see p. 99), and it’s certainly exemplied at
Eduardo Lucero (above), Tree (top right)
and Oscar de la Renta (above right).
These items are all on sale across the us.
If you can’t count on Andrea Moore—designer and new Mum—to deliver something
in her trademark reds, then what’s the world
come to? One of the eye-catching items from
the Wellington, New Zealand designer is this
Rumba dress with pink tulle and cotton
embroidery, at nz$450.
40
Kate Sylvester’s
Audrey cardigan with
a zip front is an ideal
autumn–winter purchase.
In China Blue, this cardy
suits the season’s trend
perfectly: soft form, soft
feel and a soft colour. Spotted at Unity Collection for
nz$375.
Going well with the style
of the season is the Nat
King Cole skirt from
Trelise Cooper, shown
here in a shade called
Tarmac. At Unity Collection,
nz$555.
lu c ir e m ay 2004
EDUARDO LUCERO: JENNIFER BRADWELL; TREE: JOAQUIN CUNANAN; OSCAR DE LA RENTA: CHERYL GORSKI/
CHERYL GORSKI PHOTOGRAPHY FOR LUCIRE. H&M: ENRIQUE BADULESCU. COPYRIGHT ©2004 BY HENNES &
MAURITZ AB. USED WITH PERMISSION. KATE SYLVESTER AND TRELISE COOPER: KATHRYN O’SULLIVAN
The story behind the latest Hennes & Mauritz designs is in the online edition of Lucire, but essentially, the
wisdom behind chief designer Margareta van den Bosch
is that of flirty and feminine. The emphasis is on functionality as well, hence conservative cuts but more vibrant
patterns. An overwhelming shade: blue, regardless of
whether one chooses from the Hawaiian-inspired or Pop
art-inspired (yes, it’s in swimwear, too) ranges. Van den
Bosch’s verdict: these are ‘happy colours’. Visit www.
hm.com. Stockists worldwide.
Water, water
everywhere
It’s another
natural shade
that’s in regardless
of hemisphere:
aquas. Whether
it’s swimwear or
winter woollens,
blues and
turquoises are
very much of the
season
compiled
by Kathryn
O’Sullivan
with
Stevie Wilson
and Lucire staff
The Parakeet from Stuart
Weitzman is part of the revered designer’s spring–summer line. This is the brand that
almost causes as much conversation as Manolo Blahnik.
It’s clear why these were so
highly regarded at the Oscars
(see our report this issue). Visit
his site at www.stuartweitzma
n.com for more.
The Lauren top in China Blue from
New Zealand’s Kate Sylvester is
ideal for early- to mid-autumn weather.
Instead of those repetitive floral prints
that tile as though one were wearing
wallpaper, the Lauren Top features
something far more tasteful: a single,
central design. At Unity Collection for
nz$375.
H&M: ENRIQUE BADULESCU; KATHRYN O’SULLIVAN; CATWALK: RICHARD SPIEGEL/LUCIRE; LABELS AND
RESPECTIVE PR COMPANIES
Lloyd Klein put together a
spring–summer collection, in
stores now, that reflect the
aquatic mood for the season.
His 1930s-inspired designs
with an emphasis on detail
were balanced with flowing
fabrics. Visit www.lloydklein.
com for stockist information.
One of the most stunning jewellery pieces
this month is this platinum mesh necklace from Pasadena, Calif.-based Christian Tse, part of Stevie Wilson’s jewellery
special in the online edition of Lucire in May.
We noticed hints of iolite in the mesh. At a
shade under us$10,000, there’s no doubting the presence of this necklace, from a
designer much favoured by the Hollywood
celebrity set. In the us, call 1 888 688-1988.
http://lucire.com
Andrea Moore’s autumn–winter
2004 collection features this blue
wool, navy velvet trim Cameo
cardigan, with a soft design. At
Andrea Moore for nz$295. Stockists in Australia and New Zealand.
One of the new releases from Bendon Lingerie this month is Yvette in Coral Blue.
This set features a delustred satin fabrication
with a pretty baroque print and is available in
an underwire bra, contour bra, bikini and Gstring. Underwire bra nz$34·95, contour bra
nz$34·95, bikini nz$19·95, thong nz$19·95.
Available at Bendon Lingerie stores, Bendon
on Broadway, Bendon Lingerie at Botany
Downs and selected department stores in
Australia and New Zealand.
Yellow Box is definitely in the aquatic
mood with its Neptune heel. We normally
think of very functional (and not always stylish) and slightly kid-like shoes when we think
of the Yellow Box brand, but the Neptune
shows that the company is more than capable of offering up style. There’s a hint of retrofuturism to this design which will go with
many of the clothing we’ve selected here.
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lu c ir e m ay 2004
OFFICIAL MEDIA PARTNER
If the city looks this good,
then the fashion
must be amazing.
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DZLUC1
yours in the new piccolo
lu c ir e m ay 2004