Bettina Rheims Scooter LaForge Michael Schmidt Claudia Summers
Transcription
Bettina Rheims Scooter LaForge Michael Schmidt Claudia Summers
OMEN o N 12 FALL 2014 Bettina Rheims Scooter LaForge Michael Schmidt Claudia Summers Christina Oxenberg Jenna Torres Luis Pedro de Castro Duncan Hannah Marcus Leatherdale 12 Omen Magazine Omen is a visual online magazine, an international showcase for multimedium creativity. Paying homage to the strikingly visual in art, photography, fashion and design, Omen also presents literature, music, hybrid and interstitial forms. The magazine aspires to explore and expose a vast array of artistically forceful and thought-provoking work, much of which is off the commercial radar, and that often eludes simple and hierarchal classification. Whether the artists are up-and-coming, widely recognized, or decidedly underground, Omen focuses on the distinctive creativity of their work, the unifying context being the power of art to inspire. To this end, the magazine curates and juxtaposes a heterogeneous collection from sources and contributors around the globe for a community that transcends geographic parameters. Uniting the Omen audience is its enthusiasm for that which, however renegade or variant in form, might be considered “beautiful.” Marcus Leatherdale – Art Editor / AD Jorge Serio – Fashion editor James Caldwell – Graphic editor Correspondents Jorge Socarras – NYC Art Writer Art Correspondents Alexandra C Anderson – NYC Martin Belk – London Paul Bridgewater – NYC Walt Cessna – NYC Bunny Oliver – LA Andrea Splisgar – Berlin Fashion Correspondents Kim Johnson – NYC Jonathan Daniel Pryce – London Michael Schmidt – LA Rebecca Weinberg – NYC Cover Happy Skull Scooter LaForge Literary correspondents Christina Oxenberg – NYC Claudia Summers – NYC www.theomenmag.com © 2010-2014 theOMENmag. All Rights Reserved. 1 OMEN OMEN 2 Editor’s Note photo: Pedro Matos I am very excited to present the Twelfth Issue of Omen. After some months of rethinking and redesigning the magazine, I feel confident that the final result has been worth the wait and work. For our previous followers, the new look of Omen should prove more pleasing overall, and the new format much friendlier, as the magazine is now viewable on tablets and other compatible devices. New visitors I hope will find the content of Omen 12 captivating enough to impel your anticipating future issues. To this end, I have the pleasure of introducing and thanking Omen’s new Graphic Editor James Caldwell, who has spearheaded the visual renaissance of Omen, and is committed to propelling it forward in a manner that optimally displays our featured artists. Contents 5 25 39 67 77 83 85 99 127 151 Bettina Rheims Scooter LaForge Michael Schmidt Claudia Summers Christina Oxenberg Jenna Torres Luis Pedro de Castro Duncan Hannah Marcus Leatherdale All artists online Since the first issue launched in 2010, Omen has presented a kaleidoscopic array of work from over a hundred diverse artists spanning the visual arts, written word, and music. If there’s one thing their work has shared in common it is the capacity to draw the viewer/reader/listener into their own vision. This then is what I would posit as the Omen mission: a continuous reaching for that which makes us see beyond ourselves. Omen 12 bodes well for this promise with a fantastic international lineup. I am also pleased to welcome new contributor Alexandra C. Anderson, who joins us as a New York City Art Correspondent as well as Claudia Summers’ new short story series. I am especially grateful to our ongoing contributors for their patience during the interim preceding the new issue. My many thanks to all who have participated in the realization of Omen 12, and to you who read this for completing its realization. I look forward to our continuing journey through future issues. Marcus Leatherdale 3 OMEN OMEN 4 Héroïnes Bettina Rheims 5 OMEN OMEN 6 Written on the Skin by Catherine Millet According to Willem de Kooning, « flesh is what oil painting was invented for ». Now, while photography inherited many of the functions once performed by painting (bearing witness to history, registering the physiognomy of each new generation, satisfying curiosty about the exotic and the picturesque, etc.), there is one that it seems to have neglected, namely, the representation of flesh as we see it, in its enveloppe of skin. And yet photography is considered the great medium for rendering surface and appearance. Not that is has failed to take a close interest in nude bodies. But, to the best of my knowledge, it has yet to approach the surface of the human body a doggedly as the aggressive appetence of De Kooning or the patient pictorial sedimentations of Lucian Freud. Apart from the occasional spray of freckles or a vague scar seen here or there, photography nearly always unifies skins, smoothes bodies, as if the grain of the skin was fated to be absorbed in the grain of the photograph. Except that now Bettina rheims has decided to go beyond this limitation of her medium and to compete with painting in what is its very raison d’être. For these portraits of the women she calls her Héroïnes – models from previous sessions or people she met – she photographs women who moved her : beautiful, bedecked, moving, and with their skin. Which means : with all those little blotches you sometimes get on the surface, even when young, with all the irregularities of the complexion, those beauty spots that are not always so beautiful and those little spots, the granularity, the down, the hair on the forearms and legs, the blue, sometimes slightly swollen veins and the eye’s rings, the wrinkles, when they have them, the roughness of a heel, a scar, the trace of a scratch or what looks like the fine groove left by the elastic of the panties. None of these imperfections is 7 OMEN really offputting, even when underscored by make-up. For these are ordinary flaws and if the beholder notices them it is because the bodies on which they appear belong to women who are usually idealised. Rheim’s heroines are actresses, models and dancers She decided not to call them « icons », a word she finds too hackneyed, but that is really what they are, according to our current aesthetic criteria : « icons of beauty ». Their finery is on a par with the presence of their epidermis in all its uneven reality. Tulle, voile satin, lace and pleats, beads and sequins all bespeak expensive dresses, haute couture dresses, but as if these dresses wer taken from a trunk found in an attic. They are crumpled, somewhat tired, seemingly thrown on any old how – but in fact in keeping with their artful reinterpretation by Jean Colonna – and this makes some of these « héroïnes » look like young girls caught dressing up in mother’s clothes. The dress worn by Rona Hartner is tightened around her bust with a strip of sticking plaster, just like the one tied into an elegant bow around her waist. Eva Ionesco’s shoulder straps are maintained with sailor-tape that shines as much as her oily skin. But even in these situations, these beauties, displayed without flattery, or who, when veiled, seem more got up than really dressed up, still have sufficient grace in their gestures and expressions, sufficient sophistication in their postures (the poses of Irina Lazareanu and Natasa Vojnovic recall the Virgin at Golgotha), in their choice of accessories and even in the way in which their hair is tousled, to offer a marked contrast with the setting. This simply comprises a concrete wall and floor crudely daubed with grey and a big stone that serves as a primitive pedestal for the model or, when she nestles up against it or kisses it, as an impassive partner. Rheims explains this setting by referring to a photograph of Giacometti’s studio. She also says that she found the set-up used for this series of portraits in ancient representation of Melancholy – « a woman alone, sitting OMEN 8 on a cork ». To pursue this line of thought, what was it that Giacometti built up in his Spartan studio, if not figures continuously done and undone, simultaneously shaped and worn by the artist’s fingers ? And what is preying on the minds of those beautiful allegories of Melancholy, if not the uncertainty that hangs over human existence ? And something of this doubt that lives in the gaze of all these heroines – compounded with gravity in one case, slipping towards sadness in another, or expressing expectation or questioning (only one of them is smiling) – is communicated to the person contemplating them. The viewer is disoriented. Having fairly quickly if more or less clearly recognised theses creatures as symbols of beauty, he will be annoyed at letting imself be distracted by the scores of littles flaws that compromise their perfection – all the more so because, if he concentrates on this finely detailed mode of vision, he will lose sight of the body as a sculptural whole. This effect is reinforced by the make-up, which, rather than underscoring the features, tends to « blur » them. The vision, like that of an overly red knee, of an incongruous bandage on the toes or fingers, or of ill-fitting clothing, inspire unease here when such things would hardly have been noticed on a more banal figure. In fact, a more provocative style of presentation – which the artist chaining the bodies to the roch, say, or disfiguring the models – would have been easier to interpret in terms, say, of a dramatic conflict between Beauty and Evil that would strike pity or fear into viewer. But these images never edge towards the tragic or the morbid, nor slip into anything perverse or trashy. On the contrary they manage quite remarkably to sustain an extreme and utterly new kind of tension between idealism and prosaicism. Seeing them, we are inclined to picture these women in their finery as the kind of fantasy figures they could easily have been, and at the same time we are drawn in by the stunning precision with which, for the first time perharps, they are bodied forth before us. 9 OMEN Are we alwas aware of what it is that a portrait demands from the artist’s relations to his model, of this factor that no doubt contributes as much to the quality of the photos as the relation between director and actor does to a performance of film ? So, all praise here to the artist who managed to earn the trust of her models, and get them to reveal themselves, and to the models who let down their defences, let themselves be stripped of the codes of representation that usually protect them. These women, most of whom are professionally used to putting on different identities, here resume their own in front of Rheim’s lens. Moreover – and this is what is so touching – they resume that identity no in order to affirm their own carnal seduction but, on the contrary, to expose the fragility of that flesh and even – dare I say it ? – it’s fatal subjection to processes of corruption, however benign at this stage. The relation between the artist and her models result in photographic works, each of wich bears a title – the name of the model concerned. Speaking of a photograph of a woman taken by David Octavius Hill in the 1840’s, Walter Benjamin observes that there is in the subject’s face « something that can never be reduced to silence, and that insistently calls on us the name of the person who lived there, who is still real there, and who will never entirely be absorbed into art ». But what if the art of the photographer was, precisely, to make the irreducible « something » visible ? OMEN 10 11 OMEN OMEN 12 13 OMEN OMEN 14 15 OMEN OMEN 16 17 OMEN OMEN 18 19 OMEN OMEN 20 21 OMEN OMEN 22 23 OMEN OMEN 24 Collection Scooter LaForge By Walt Cessna Scooter LaForge is the rare artist whose appeal ranges from the trend seeking streets to the lofty echilons of fine art. His neo-surrealist/cartoon abstract paintings have earned him the respect of esteemed collectors worldwide while his wildly popular line of custom silk screened & hand painted tee-shirts are worn by a wide and varied range of all age hipsters willing to worship at the house of LaForge working it on the runway known as life. Recent collaborations with David Dalrymple, Klye Brincefield of StudMuffin NYC for CONVERSE and a long running exclusive with the legendary Patricia Field all provide several options for lovers of the ever growing LaForge brand. AWESOME!!! Favorite Food: Sushi Favorite Cartoon: Space Ghost Favorite Treat: Watermelon Favorite Place: The Forest Favorite Time of day: 8am Favorite Movie: Desperately Seeking Susan Favorite Destination: Tahiti w Gazelle Favorite Ice Cream: Peanut Butter Cup Favorite Cause: HUMAN AND ANIMAL RIGHTS Favorite Color: Beige Represented by Munch Gallery – NYC 25 OMEN OMEN 26 27 OMEN OMEN 28 29 OMEN OMEN 30 31 OMEN OMEN 32 33 OMEN OMEN 34 35 OMEN OMEN 36 37 OMEN OMEN 38 Collection Michael Schmidt by Walt Cessna All Photos courtesy of the Michael Schmidt Collection 39 OMEN OMEN 40 Michael Schmidt is truly one of the last rock stars of American fashion and one of the few designers who actually hand crafts each of his incredible designs. Invoking the legacy of 60’s legend Paco Rabane, Schmidt’s first styles were painstakingly made by hand assembling soda can pop tabs into short, shimmering mini dresses. It completely fits that he started around the same time Stephen Sprouse was coming to notoriety. Like Sprouse, Schmidt absorbed everything he could from the worlds of rock n roll and nightlife, which in turn inspired his aesthetic. Schmidt is a designer who may stay true to his roots, but consistently evolves into new mediums, techniques and embellishment. The young man who turned soda can tabs and safety pins into couture is the older, wiser man who creates the first 3D dress and debuts it on the ultimate visual icon Dita Von Teese. Schmidt has dressed all the major stars, but remains the same laid back, grungy yet glam guy that I first met in the Michael Todd Room at The Palladium zipping around on a skateboard. The ladies on his arm have always been an inspiration, from Lisa E. (Edelstein) in the 80’s to Dita now, Schmidt has always been a designer smart enough to realize that it takes a fierce diva to carry off his usually one of a kind designs. Unlike some of his contemporaries, he prefers to atelier to the red carpet and for the most part lets his creations take center stage. Likely one of the reasons that 30 years into his design career he has never wavered from his personal style nor made trendy attempts at main stream design. When you see Debby Harry rocking one of his delicate yet dangerous designs you are immediately struck by the perfect marriage between a powerful performer and an equally strong visual. His creations work best on women who embrace their personal style, who wear leather like silk, chain mail like chiffon and 3D dresses as if they were an everyday thing. The words simple and basic traded for intricate and beyonder, Schmidt takes his sweet time and pays lavish attention with each piece, ensuring that a masterpiece of design is in the making. And inherently, he continuously succeeds. 41 OMEN What was your very first fashion inspiration or moment? Watching TV as a kid in the 70’s, I loved Bob Mackie’s creations for Cher. She would make her entrance in a simple wrap and then fling it off with a flourish to expose some insane beaded fantasy, and I would lose it every time. Together Bob and Cher perfected the art of the Reveal. I don’t understand why more drag entertainers don’t use that classic burlesque trick. How did your nightclub life in the 80’s inspire your designs? Clubs like Boy Bar, Danceteria, Area and Palladium were the hothouses when I arrived in NYC and dressing up was how we distinguished ourselves. We had no money, of course, so we had to be inventive and I learned to make materials from things you wouldn’t typically associate with clothing. Then of course I had my own club in the 90’s called SqueezeBox!, and that crowd provided inspiration for a lot of the designers and photographers of that period. From soda can tabs to 3D you have been ahead of your time, where might you go next? 4D! Which do you find more inspiring; street style, the runway, both? Street style is always the best fashion show. An individual’s presentation is an exposition of their unique life experience, a chronicle of their life. A designer’s collection, on the other hand, is a limited set of linear ideas which must remain true to their brand. I don’t pay a great deal of attention to runway presentations because I don’t work seasonally, unless I’m collaborating with a designer. The entertainment industry isn’t bound by the same strictures as the fashion industry. OMEN 42 photo: Albert Watson 43 OMEN photo: Albert Watson OMEN 44 45 OMEN OMEN 46 47 OMEN OMEN 48 49 OMEN OMEN 50 51 OMEN OMEN 52 photo: Scott Nathan 53 OMEN OMEN 54 photo: Bob Gruen 55 OMEN OMEN 56 57 OMEN OMEN 58 59 OMEN OMEN 60 photo: Mark Seliger 61 OMEN photo: David Lachapelle OMEN 62 photo: David Lachapelle 63 OMEN OMEN 64 photo: Alix Malka photo: Steven LaNassa 65 OMEN OMEN 66 Burden Of Memories Claudia Summers photo: Marcus Leatherdale 67 OMEN OMEN 68 The air was thick with murk that Juliette couldn’t push through; it seemed impenetrable. Juliette sat down with her coffee and lit a cigarette. She’d overslept and was now late for work. She didn’t care. It had been a late night shooting dope and coke. She sipped the black coffee. Blue and dark purple morning glories crawled up her window and blew gently in the wind. Delicate petals trembled, soaking up the sun, but the light streaming in hurt her eyes and gave the flowers an acid intensity. Outside, she heard a couple fighting. The male’s harsh, deep voice punched through the window. Juliette crossed the room to close the heavy curtains. She sat back down and dragged on her cigarette. Juliette knew the slave would wait for her in the dungeon. Simple humiliation and degradation was her bread and butter. Smiling, she imagined him exquisitely tortured, wondering if she would bother to show. Prostrate, his knees pressed hard into the wooden floor; eventually, he would shift his legs and knees trying to find a modicum of comfort. But his history would shackle him. He would not dare stand. The cool air would cause his naked body to shiver and his penis to shrink; the longer he waited, the greater his discomfort and anticipation would grow. Pain he would offer her as devotion. Juliette laughed. That dance would never be enough. That was the joke. It was never enough. She dragged deep on her cigarette and thought of striking him: perfect, precise words and a well placed whipped red welt across his back. Blue smoke curled and folded in on itself and then faded to nothing. Juliette’s hand slightly shook as she stubbed out the cigarette. She took a last sip of coffee. Soon, she had to get straight. She called Paula to say she’d be at the dungeon soon. Juliette added, “I want the slave naked and kneeling when I arrive. He’ll wait.” Paula told her she already had several other bookings for the day, and that David had just booked an appointment for late in the afternoon. Harsh yellow light from the bare bulb in the kitchen ceiling struck Juliette’s eyes as she hung up the phone. A glass of water was drawn from the faucet and she went back into her bedroom. From the nightstand she pulled out a spoon, a needle, and glassine envelopes of 69 OMEN heroin. She fixed it, cooked it, and tied off. A vein was found, and she watched the blood flower in the needle. Time slowed and there was nothing but the blood languidly swirling. Everything became quiet, and as the stillness beckoned, she injected the heroin. Her heartbeat slowed, and then entranced to ancient music, her molecules and blood sang a song she had never found on her own. An endless night illuminated with the points of thousands of stars filled her eyes. She didn’t move for a few minutes. She only lived for this moment. *** For thirty minutes, the slave had been naked and kneeling in the dungeon when Juliette arrived. He was a regular. Juliette went to the closet and flipped through her outfits, pulling out a black latex corset dress. She powdered the inside of it so it would move smoothly over her body. She slipped into it and yelled into the next room, “Paula, come lace me up.” She fell into the crimson upholstered chair and closed her eyes. Slow, deep conscious breath fanned the dope artifice; warm tendrils radiated from her belly, wrapped around liver, heart, spine, and reached deep into her brain. She felt enveloped, connected, and didn’t want to move. Reluctantly, her heavy eyelids slowly lifted, deadened blue irises gazed at the cattle prod hung on the red wall in front of her. She breathed deeply and slowly exhaled. She had to get ready. A pair of sheer black silk stockings was draped over the table at her side. She put the stockings on and attached them to the garter. She leaned over the side of the chair and searched through the rows of shoes and boots Juliette extracted her favorite steel-tip black stilettos. “He has been waiting for over thirty minutes at this point,” Paula said as she came through the door. “I don’t care,” Juliette said. OMEN 70 “Stand up. Turn around if you want me to lace you up.” “Besides,” Juliette said as she stood and turned, “He’s lucky I’m coming in this early. I should have had you collect his money at the door and not even allowed him into the dungeon. He’s pathetic. I know I could get away with that at least once.” “You probably could have,” Paula laughed. “There, you’re laced.” Juliette leaned her hand against the crimson chair and slipped the six-inch stilettos on. It was hard to adjust the latex; she pulled wrinkles out and released them with a snap. The black, sleek rubber fused like a second skin. Her hands ran over the smooth latex; fractured by seams, it cleaved to her body. The latex felt good. She stood tall and smiled at Paula, “I’m ready.” When Juliette entered the dungeon, the white slave was prostrate, forehead pressed into the cold wooden floor. Corpulent flesh pooled around his body, trembling slightly from excitement and from the length of prostration, but he did not move. Trained well, he knew better than to move or talk, unless told to. But his breath betrayed him. Wet, thick phlegm rattled in his chest. Revulsion curled in her belly as she walked around him. “To hear you breathe disgusts me.” He whimpered, “I’m sorry, Mistress Juliette.” She stopped midstride. Viscerally, she could feel his breath in her belly. It felt hot and malignant. Time folded—memories rushed forward, and then pushed her back. The moment fractured, sharp and distinct: In the hot back seat of a blue car his fingers grope and violate her. Mouth against her ears, his hot tongue licking and burrowing, her father whispers, “No one will believe you.” Lavender lilacs press against the car window. The wind shimmers the pastel, delicate buds. He hooks his thumb into the top of her pants. Her hand grabs the edge of the seat and her 71 OMEN nails dig deep into the torn blue vinyl. His oily breath slides over her skin. Soundlessly, her throat tightens. Her eyes slide to the window. A branch scraps across the window dragging the pale violet blooms. His thumb drags across her groin as he pulls her pants down and moans low. She can almost smell the lilacs through the closed window. Juliette heard an almost imperceptible moan from the slave as he struggled to maintain his obedient pose. She whipped around and her vision narrowed on him with laser precision. A man was on the floor. He wanted something from her. She wanted to hurt him. His neediness repulsed her. Her spine stretched in micro increments and a nebula formed from rage exploded. “Did I give you permission to make a sound? Lay your palm out flat. Now.” She stepped closer. She breathed the gases and fumes and raised her foot; with exaggerated care she rested it, dead center, in the palm of his hand. “Not one whimper.” With deliberate slowness, she twisted the steel tip of the stiletto heel into his palm, and feeling his pleasure travel up her leg, she dug in deeper. *** The day was long. Already, she’d seen five clients. Juliette kicked off her shoes, sunk deep into the crimson chair, and folded her long legs underneath her. She had a few minutes before David, her next client, arrived. She was tired and starting to feel dope sick. Juliette’s thin arms dangled off the red velvet arm of the chair, her fingers curled with the fragility of an orchid. Underneath the deteriorated arm makeup, blue shadows trailed along veins. Blood moved like shimmery electrical current through her. Restless, Juliette quickly stood up. Her eyes desperately circled the room. It felt like a prison. She needed heroin. After David, she could leave. *** Paula led him into the dungeon and left. David stood for a few minutes gathering his thoughts and feelings, and then undressed. With military precision, he OMEN 72 folded his clothes and carefully placed them on the dressing table, straight and contained. David remembered the first time he saw Juliette. He was afraid to reveal his naked body; he was tired of incorrect assumptions and stupid questions. None of the women he had met before Juliette had understood what he was looking for. There was literal understanding, but he had discovered that wasn’t enough. He wasn’t looking for a dominatrix. The day he met her, Juliette wouldn’t talk to him until he was naked and kneeling. David knew that submission was part of the game. He hadn’t had high hopes for the next hour. She had walked into the room and sat down on the ornate chair. She was carefully contained. She asked him a few questions about what he was looking for and then stood, silently looking down at him. “Stand up,” she had said. Slowly, Juliette circled him. The air sharpened. She moved with economy of movement. Her breath was even. He heard the whisper of leather and the soft drag of her heel on the floor. Juliette’s eyes traveled over David’s raised dark red scars; they ran parallel and perpendicular. His entire body was covered. She noted that his little finger on the right hand curved permanently like a broken branch. As she closed the circumference around him, she murmured, low and under her breath, “Hieroglyphic … was it written by man or … ” David knew she didn’t want an answer. Juliette hadn’t even known she had spoken out loud. She faced him. Her light blue eyes searched and probed. He felt nailed to the floor, and for the briefest of moments, so brief he questioned whether it happened, he saw his reflection in her eyes. the head of the table and gazed down at him. His scars mocked her. Once, she had dreamed she was covered in them. The healed wounds had come alive, constricting and choking her; she awoke trying to scream, but no sound came out. Juliette picked up the rope and began binding his hands together. Each loop of the rope was hypnotic. She felt herself sinking into the moment. She walked over to the other end of the table and gently picked up his feet. She bound the ankles together, then pulled the legs tight and straight and secured them to the O-ring under the table. Her concentration was complete. She was aware that each movement she made was more than what it was. She blindfolded him, filled his ears with plugs and gagged him. She did it impersonally. Each action of imprisonment was slow and deliberate. Juliette breathed deeply and looked down at David. She picked up a corner of the latex and watched as a piece of dust floated. Her head turned and she watched as the air slowly thickened. She looked at her hand. She didn’t recognize it. The hand wasn’t hers. It was just an instrument repeating history. She wrapped the latex tightly around him and then secured it. David was totally bound and constricted in a dark cocoon. There was no movement; as always, he was still. She backed away and sat down for a few minutes. It was part of the ritual. He believed she left the room at this time, but she never did. She didn’t understand it, but she could feel the presence of something that comforted her when she sat with him; somehow, she could feel shadows of light. It was her secret. Finally, she stood up and walked back over to the table. She picked up the bamboo cane and raised her arm. *** Juliette now entered the dungeon. The candles were the only light in the room. The flames twisted and the walls beat like a womb. Juliette was silent; she never spoke during David’s hour. It was a precise ritual replicated religiously. Centered in the dungeon was the bondage table, the edges of a dusty, black latex sheet hanging off it. David already lay naked and supine. Juliette walked around to 73 OMEN David, wrapped tight in ropes and latex, blindfolded, gagged, hearing muted, starts dropping into a void. All he can hear is the rhythm of his blood; he knows there are voices in the darkness, but for now they are silent. The stickiness and heat underneath the latex start choking him and he is grateful he cannot scream. The edges of his scars feel sharp and he feels sweat pooling. Within the cocoon, he smells the earth of the hot green jungle, the stained wooden cages, the metallic blood, the decaying wounds, the fear-saturated air and OMEN 74 all of the shit, piss, and rage of the Hanoi Hilton. He tries to breathe quietly and push the memories away. Blood pumping and pounding in his ears forces him to take a panicked breath. The specter of Joe rushes within inches of his face, their lips touch and he tastes the salt of Joe’s dead eyes. David tries to lick away the taste on his lips, but remembers he’s gagged. Joe came back to New York, but he had died in Vietnam, even before he was a prisoner. Out of the darkness, David sees the smooth silk stocking legs of his mother disappear down a cracked sidewalk. David wants to cry. He sinks deeper into the ropes and latex; suddenly he is turning in a circle, his face lifts to catch falling snowflakes. He can feel their cold outline. His skin warms the ice and they melt in rivulets running down his cheeks. His head turns to look at the winter horizon and his eyelash brushes against the mud he lies in. Inches from his face, his hand rest dirty and bloody. An insect sucks on the blood of a wound. His fingers twisted and broken, he marvels at the cycle of life. sky that barely illuminated the monsters in the dark, he shot her. As she fell into the dark river, the coconut flew through the air and rolled until it landed at his feet. He saw the soft, brown eyes of his baby sister. He had been her big brother hero. The dead Vietnamese child’s hair fanned and drifted gently in the dark water, framing half a face haloed by the dying orange light. The other half was gone. Pete had pulled him away from the river. They never talked about it. Pete died in the Hilton. That day there was just silence in the prison as David smelled the sweet, thick perfume of orchids. The sun and humidity burned the perfume and by the afternoon he smelled Pete’s body. Pete had died quietly and alone in his cage. Laughter rolled across the jungle and Pete’s hand rested heavy on his shoulder as he led him away from the river. David absorbed the chaos. He quit fighting the pain. Juliette struck hard across his heart and he welcomed it. Juliette whipped the bamboo cane down hard against David’s torso. Lost in memories, David involuntarily jackknifed; his shoulders burned as he twisted and his joints and spine stretched. The latex stretched tighter across his face and body and he felt its heat and wetness; a hand pushed him down, trying to drown him. He braced himself. After watching David trying to escape the pain, Juliette walked around the table and looked down at his bound feet. She felt his tight binding on her ankles. The rope burned her skin and cut deep. She reached out and gently traced the soles of his feet with her finger. He couldn’t feel it through the latex, but she felt it in her foot. It felt like a ghost. She involuntarily took a step back. A warm wind caresses David’s feet and he remembers the clear blue night a guard covered his bloody feet with grass. The guard thought he was asleep. Under the cover of darkness, kindness was risked. Juliette raised her arm and brought the cane down where she had just touched. Within the cocoon David fought the pain and remembered it was the same guard who had beat him that day. Juliette felt a shift in David and stopped in mid-strike. The struggle in the cocoon ceased. The outer shell thinned and became translucent. She stepped closer and watched white wings strain against the cocoon and its bindings. When she leaned in closer, the ropes began to disintegrate and the wings gently unfurled breaking through the shell. She could feel something trying to lift her, but she was too heavy. Juliette shut her eyes, shook her head and took a breath. When she opened her eyes, David wrapped in latex and ropes lay in front of her. She lay down the cane. Published in Metropolitan Review – Fall 2014 The blows beat down with no rhythm. A scream pierced his mind and the smell of fear and death rushed in. She fell in the river. It was just a coconut. She was just a kid. He thought it was a grenade. He shot her. Against an orange twilight 75 OMEN OMEN 76 When in Doubt… Double the Dosage Christina Oxenberg 77 OMEN OMEN 78 Mating by Christina Oxenberg She was holding two filled plastic cups of beer. She stared at him as if in a trance. With her narrow face, and her wide dark almond eyes, long lashes casting shadows, her eyelids were half closed, as if perhaps she was deep in thought. While it’s true the mates did get lucky after the disastrous July 4th fireworks cruise, the collateral damage from that night was a girl named Nelly. Pirate Bob looked around for an escape route. Saturday night, exactly one week later Nelly was primped and awaiting. Nelly was on the early side to arrive at the bar. She knocked back some shots and then bought herself a beer, and a second one, and took up her position. She was waiting for him. The mates, Boat Boys, you’ll spot them in the evenings, traveling in pods. Surging into bars or looping around town in bicycle gangs, hunting for the choicest place to perch, in pursuit of fun. The band was taking a break when Pirate Bob and his buddies arrived. Somehow Nelly missed him as he got himself a drink and sauntered outside, to linger on the sidewalk, in an optimal position from where he could leisurely catch up with whomever meanwhile dragnet the incoming krill. This being around midnight, in Key West, the clock had struck play time. Pirate Bob was lighting a cigarette when Nelly first saw him. With a beer in each hand she made her way over to him, the man of her dreams. Exhaling a stream of gray smoke it was too late when Pirate Bob’s vision crystallized on the blonde in front of him. As the smoke cleared he saw she was tall, slim, and her long blonde hair cascaded in wavy clumps. And then he realized he knew her, and he froze. 79 OMEN “Svor you,” Nelly said, and pressed one of her beer cups against him, her tanned arm pecking forward, the beer sloshing to the edge. The liquid splashed onto his shirt. “No thanks Nelly.” “Thish svor you,” she said, again ramming the spare beer at him, so that much of it tipped onto his shorts. She stared dreamily as meanwhile the object of her affection was gingerly taking steps away, so she followed, and her every thrust was met with a rupture in the matrix. She was grappling, lost in quicksand. She saw a man who to her was perfection. Ever since their one night together she had daydreamed of him, endlessly. She had married him, raised their kids. Once more she pressed the beer on him, most of what was left in it spilled on his feet. “Can I call you a cab?” Pirate Bob said. But she shook her head and with a couple of practiced spins Pirate Bob vanished into the crowd. Later he explained, “Nelly’s a good girl, but she is road kill.” OMEN 80 Short Break by Christina Oxenberg One night I went hunting for some place to dance. First stop was Virgilio’s, a small club in a narrow alley. Half indoors and with a star-tickler of a kapok tree in the half outdoors side, Virgilio’s is a local’s choice. Plus, Alex the bartender is always at the ready with my favorite bottled water. But the band was taking a break, so I paid for my water and split. I stopped in at the fabled Green Parrot, a low slung clapboard structure with rafters hung with beads and bras. The music, while fiercely performed by a methfueled violinist, was impossible to dance to. The song finished and the fiddler said, “I’m gonna take a short break. Don’t go nowhere.” I went next door to Bobalu’s, a bar like a gas station spilling onto the sidewalk, a flapping tarp overhead, a four piece band of lumpy men with straggly hair belting out a marvelous beat. Bobalu’s dance floor is a sloping patch of cement and one wrong step can jettison one, but I gave it a go. At the end of the song the band said, “We’re going to take a short break, we’ll be back in a few days.” I set off down Duval, to the wild end, where stagnant diesel and cigar fumes never dissipate and the lurching crowd seldom disperses. At the corner of Caroline sits a building of three stories, making it a skyscraper. Ground floor is The Bull, second floor is The Whistle, and under the stars is the top floor, with the Garden of Eden. This place is ‘clothing optional’. I climbed the stairs and a glance through the entrance revealed titties wobbling and wieners hanging out; meanwhile my bottle of water was confiscated. 81 OMEN The Garden of Eden is an uncovered roof surrounded by a low wall and potted plants, and crowded with dancing bodies. Some clad, some not, many in half-way stages. Two men with blonde afros and dark glasses struggled out of clothes, and then naked, except for bandanas and sunglasses they spun around, helicoptering their tootsie rolls. A big girl in nothing but pink leggings impossibly circumnavigating an ass jutting behind her like the flatbed of a pickup truck, twisted to the techno, entertaining an enormous fellow who watched her, languidly leaning against a potted plant. A torrential rain descended and everyone was kicked out. The rain was mostly over as I wended to my car. I passed a man with a sack of beer and his friend with a bowler hat and a guitar in a bag on his back. Sack o’ Beer said, “I noticed you earlier at Bobalu’s, you were dancing up a storm. Have a beer.” Bowler Hat unzipped his guitar and serenaded with songs he claimed he’d composed the day before; they were lovely. Soon we had quite a gathering of others also winding down from the upsurge of the night, and in no particular hurry to go home. Sack o’ Beer offered a hand, “Shall we?” We danced Purchase Christina’s books on Amazon: Christina Oxenberg on Amazon OMEN 82 A Woman’s Touch Jenna Torres Music Links www.youtube.com/watch?v=acFeOC8UERE www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wzs_Skc_op8 83 OMEN OMEN 84 We Are Ecosexuals Luis Pedro de Castro “WE ARE THE ECOSEXUALS. The Earth is our lover. We are madly, passionately, and fiercly in love. We are grateful for this relationship each and every day. In order to create a more mutual and sustainable relationship with the Earth. we collaborate with nature. We treat the Earth with kindness, respect and affection.” – ECOSEX MANIFESTO “In Barcelona we married the rocks. We married the rocks because rocks are the sexy, strong beings that structure the Earth. The Silver Wedding to the Rocks is where Fluxus, meets Punk, meets Post Porn, meets Love Art Lab. We would also like to thank all of the wonderful performers who performed for the wedding all of the collaborators and photographers were fabulous and we could not have had the wedding without you.” Annie Sprinkle & Beth Stephens 85 OMEN OMEN 86 Luis Pedro de Castro was born in Guimarães, Portugal in 1981. While studying photography in Barcelona, he dedicated himself to the portrayal of gender fluid interpretations in post porn theory and performance. He began manipulating his photographs using digital software to achieve an aesthetic inspired by Renaissance painting and as a way to create visual consistency from photos taken with multiple cameras that he borrows from friends. “In life when we look at sexuality as a dirty deviant behavior, it’s a reflection on our own cultural and emotional barriers. As we keep growing and evolving we realize those constructs are flawed and preconceived. It’s an opportunity that allows us to enhance our lives with more than carnal delight, and transcend from pornography to the divine. Most of my pictures are a combination of sexuality and raw colors mixed with a total lack of respect for photography rules, meaning that the pictures I take correspond to an intimate, chaotic, and in my perspective, more natural look at individuals. “ Luis Pedro de Castro (aka) Strangelfreak 87 OMEN OMEN 88 89 OMEN OMEN 90 91 OMEN OMEN 92 93 OMEN OMEN 94 95 OMEN OMEN 96 97 OMEN OMEN 98 Collection Duncan Hannah 99 OMEN OMEN 100 Duncan Hannah by Jorge Socarras The American art scene of the 1970s was dominated by pop, photorealism, minimalism and conceptualism, e.g., Warhol silkscreens, Chuck Close portraits, Lichtenstein still lifes, Joseph Kosuth word pieces. Representational painting was largely skewed, hyperrealized, or eschewed altogether. Amid these currents, young artist Duncan Hannah pressed on with his own defiantly unfashionable painterly vision. He painted images that were unassuming enough – a nude, a country scene, a ship - rendering them with a subtly idealized, quietly anachronistic air that might make the most iconoclastic conceptualist look twice. Hannah’s wasn’t merely “old-school” representationalism per se; it was a reflection on what that vanishing world entailed, what it conjured to mind. At a point when art was so selfconsciously concerned with being “contemporary,” Hannah’s work resisted facile categorization. possibility. Their ostensible simplicity and innocence belie the painter’s deft hand and discipline. Hannah is an artist who has logically and methodically worked out his romanticism, creating a world that invites the viewer to recall it, however fictitiously. Myself, fortunate enough to be acquainted with the artist in the real world, I took advantage of addressing him directly. Forty years later, Duncan Hannah’s vast body of work continues to gracefully elude. Still more easily likened to Edward Hopper or Henry Lamb than to many of his contemporaries, he has persisted in his signature style through the decades, with the perhaps surprising result that Hannah’s works, by virtue of their temporal eccentricity, have achieved their own classic, onestyle-fits-all timelessness. Much of his oeuvre has a strong Anglophile bent, depicting scenes and figures in an idyllic British past between the great wars. (Indeed a viewer might never guess that the artist is a Minneapolisborn, longtime New Yorker.) Ultimately, however, whether rooted in decades past or the elusive present, Hannah’s painted images belong to the realm of time imagined, if not regained. An English estate, a semi-clad nymph, a 20th century celebrity, a sports car on a country road, the vestiges of a smalltown cinema – all remain forever out of reach, still shimmering with innate 101 OMEN OMEN 102 Q&A JS: You’ve tenaciously pursued your artistic vision since you were a young painter. Did you have a sense at the time that if you persisted, you would succeed in establishing yourself, or was it more a matter of creative compulsion? DH: I graduated from Parsons in 1975, when the Soho scene was dominated by conceptualism, minimalism, etc. The magazines were proclaiming that painting was dead - bad timing for me. There were a few guiding lights in the galleries: Hockney, Kitaj, Rivers, etc. I already had a well of passions that would not be ignored, and was turned on by the process of painting pictures, so I waved my ragged banner and persevered, not knowing what the outcome would be. JS: You have an affinity for the painters of the Camden Town Group. What drew you as a young painter to a relatively obscure painting movement rather than to the iconic artists of the 70s? DH: There was a Sickert music hall painting in the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis that I loved growing up. I always kept my eye on him, even though he died in 1942. That brand of painterly representation, informed by French post-impressionism, seemed to me the best of all worlds. Juicy paint, modern life, full-bodied color, a whiff of the sinister - like a more exotic Ashcan School. JS: How did your peers view your work back then? DH: The early 80s was a time of anything-goes pluralism. To be a young painter with an eccentric repertoire was seen through the all-pervasive lens 103 OMEN OMEN 104 of irony, so I caught a wave produced by the New York, Italian and German Neo-Expressionists. The fact that my paintings were slightly crude fit in with the Do-It-Yourself aesthetic of the time. JS: Regarding the Anglophile element to your work, did that aesthetic current precede your painting and inform it, or did the two perhaps evolve mutually? DH: Growing up with Sherlock Holmes, the Beatles, British cinema, the general explosion of Swinging London definitely shaped my sensibility, so when I began to cobble myself into an artist, these ingredients naturally predominated. JS: David Hockney once gave you some artistic advice. Did you immediately consider the value of what he suggested, and did you put it to practice? DH: Yes. When I got out of art school in 1975, Hockney came over for a studio visit. He suggested I get rid of my gimmicks, and trust that my personality and subliminal intent would shine through. I needn’t put things “in quotes.” He also said that if I worked hard enough, I would discover my true self naturally, rather than picking something that would align myself with the zeitgeist. I took it to heart, and set about, through trial and error, what the perimeters of my oeuvre might be. JS: The first half of the last century fostered a great surge of artistic bohemianism. Does the fact that many of your paintings evoke that period say something about your own bohemian predilections? DH: I’ve always been smitten by the romanticism of La Vie Boheme. When the current of international art began to deal with Picasso and company in the mid-century, there was a fantastic tributary of figurative painting going 105 OMEN OMEN 106 on in England, Italy and Germany. I chose the lesser-known artists as my forefathers. The road less travelled. More intimate, more human. JS: Even the abstract expressionists had figurative origins. Have you ever been compelled to experiment in a more abstract direction, or perhaps had abstract episodes? DH: I love many of the abstract expressionists, and emulated them in a rather middling fashion when I was at Bard in the early 70s. Later I wondered if I might morph into something nonrepresentational as I developed, as Matisse and Mondrian did, but my muse hasn’t lead me there yet. I am working on a series of oils done from my collages at the moment, which are perhaps 75% abstract. This may be the doorway I need. JS: There’s such wide diversity in your subject matter. Yet, whether it’s a nude or a car, you manage to unite them aesthetically. Is there a conscious consistency in how you approach your subjects, or is it a question of your style inevitably revealing itself? DH: After I’ve selected the source materiel, the rest of the process is about creating a painting that’s well crafted, in harmony, so that the chords that are rung ring true. I even paint them upside down, to emphasize the painterly qualities rather than the illustrational content. Each painting must show how one feels about painting itself, about color, about execution. I think it is this that ties my body of work together, regardless of the promiscuous subject matter. JS: Some people might see your work as nostalgic? Do you see it as such, and if not, what differentiates your treatment of time and idealization from the purely nostalgic? 107 OMEN OMEN 108 DH: I dislike the word nostalgia. It feels soft. It gives the viewer permission to dismiss the work as irrelevant - whereas writers and filmmakers often use the past as subject matter. The past is another world ripe for exploration. As Faulkner said, “The past is never dead; it’s not even past.” JS: You’ve painted many female nudes and semi-nudes, as well as young women playing peek-a-boo with the viewer. However classical, glamorous, or playful, they are most consistently beautiful, perhaps unattainable. Is there a Pygmalion factor to how you depict women? DH: Beauty is a subjective thing. I’ve found the quest for beauty is complex. What is it that instills desire in oneself? What are the elements that create a visual poetry? What speaks to you in that lyrical way? The painting of the nude is a noble tradition, easy to do poorly, difficult to do well. JS: There’s often a sense of innate narrative in your work, of a story on the brink of unfolding. How do you imbue otherwise static images with this sense? DH: I think about an implied narrative a lot. How to provoke a viewer’s imagination, so it becomes a kind of collaboration. If you give too much information, it can inhibit what the viewer brings to it. To transcend a simple genre painting to something with the atmosphere of mystery is an ineffable thing. If one succeeds, there is a timelessness to it. For me, too much contemporary art is engaging only for a couple of minutes, due to its overly specific nature. Better to leave it open to interpretation. More life that way. More generous. JS: You collect and paint vintage Penguin book volumes – I believe you’ve even invented a few titles. This is arguably your biggest leap in subject 109 OMEN OMEN 110 matter, and in some ways your most minimalist and pop work. Why and how did you decide to approach this as subject matter? DH: I love book jackets, and Penguin classics reign supreme. I painted one for my own amusement; it felt right, so over the years I painted perhaps a hundred more, giving TLC to the the grimy creases, the dog ears, the coffee stains, the foxing. I suppose they have to do with the arc of time. JS: You have been exhibiting since 1981, are in numerous collections, and are a 2011 Guggenheim Fellowship recipient. Where do you go from here? DH: The business of being an artist is not a sprint, but rather an endurance run. One goes in and out of style. It’s important to try to pay as little attention to that as possible, and remember why one was impelled to become an artist in the first place. Not to get sidetracked into the competitive nature of the increasingly bizarre circus that is today’s art world. I trust that my work will lead me where I need to go. 111 OMEN OMEN 112 113 OMEN OMEN 114 115 OMEN OMEN 116 117 OMEN OMEN 118 119 OMEN OMEN 120 121 OMEN OMEN 122 123 OMEN OMEN 124 125 OMEN OMEN 126 Adivasi Marcus Leatherdale Adivasi: Photographs of Tribal India by John Wood, Photographic historian and critic That Marcus Leatherdale’s photographic portrait of tribal India is of the greatest possible documentary importance is unquestionable, but it should be equally obvious that it is great art. Leatherdale’s photographs are transformed through his craft and vision from social documents into objects of aesthetic contemplation, in other words, into art. Occasionally one encounters an individual with naïve notions about the distinction between art and documentation. In the hands of an artist there is no distinction; in the hands of an artist they are perfectly integrated. Represented by Bernarducci.Meisel.Gallery – NYC 127 OMEN OMEN 128 129 OMEN OMEN 130 131 OMEN OMEN 132 133 OMEN OMEN 134 135 OMEN OMEN 136 137 OMEN OMEN 138 139 OMEN OMEN 140 141 OMEN OMEN 142 143 OMEN OMEN 144 145 OMEN OMEN 146 147 OMEN OMEN 148 149 OMEN OMEN 150 Artists Bettina Rheims www.bettinarheims.com Scooter Laforge www.scooterlaforge.com Michael Schmidt www.michaelschmidtstudios.com Claudia Summers [email protected] Christina Oxenberg www.wooldomination.com Jenna Torres www.jennatorres.com Luis Pedro de Castro www.strangefreak.blogspot.com Annie Sprinkle www.anniesprinkle.org Duncan Hannah www.duncanhannah.blogspot.com Marcus Leatherdale www.marcusleatherdale.com 151 OMEN