Turning the table

Turning
the table
Shape shifter: The picnic
table splits into two
benches
twobenches
(opposite) to suit your space
and seating needs.
62
APRIL/MAY 2002
COT TAGE LIFE
...from eating to seating. These convertible
benches will knock guests off their feet
Last summer, my wife, Lynn, and I
dropped in on cousin Kathleen and her
husband, Ross, at their Wahwashkesh
Lake cottage. After the customary welcome refreshments and sharing of family
news and gossip, Ross and I naturally started talking cottage stuff. I
noted that he had recently replaced the deck on the side of the cottage.
This required closer observation, so we abandoned the women and our
lawn chairs and climbed the steps for the requisite inspection. Ross said
he was considering installing a bench along the railing side of the deck
and wanted to know what I thought. Since this bench/table project was
already under construction back at my place, I suggested it might be a
suitable alternative. Like stationary benches, our bench/tables provide
extra deck seating space, but they can be moved around. The added
bonus is that they can also be quickly converted to half picnic tables or
combined to form a full one. This eliminates the need for the traditional, but cumbersome wood picnic table or a plastic or aluminum
patio set that always seems to take up too much space. The multi-purpose
Cottage Life benches are the hands (and bottoms) down way to go.
1. Refer to the Materials List (p. 68) and Illust. 4
(pp. 66–67), to cut out the main parts. If you do not have a really good sabre/jig
saw, or access to a band saw, you might want to mitre the corners instead of cutting the curves. It is virtually impossible to keep the blade perpendicular with a
standard sabre/jig saw in 11⁄ 2" lumber so save yourself the aggravation.
2. The table legs require a 11 ⁄ 2" x 31 ⁄ 2" notch for the back brace (Illust. 4). I
accomplished this with a dado blade on my radial arm saw. However, the same
can be achieved with a circular saw (or a handsaw, for that matter) and a sharp
chisel: Make several passes 11 ⁄ 2" deep and then remove the remaining material
with the chisel. The bottom outside corners of all four legs for each bench are
trimmed to reduce the possibility of splitting when the table is tipped (Illust. 4).
Drill a 3 ⁄ 8" hole, centred, 31 ⁄ 2" from the top of each table leg. >>
FRAMING/LEGS
B Y WAY N E L E N N O X
P H OTO G R A P H Y BY J . M I C H A E L L A FO N D
T E C H N I C A L I L L U S T R A T I O N S B Y T E R R Y D O VA S T O N A N D B A R B D I P I E T R O
COT TAGE LIFE
APRIL/MAY 2 0 0 2
63
3. For this project, I opted to
fashion 31⁄2"-wide half-lap joints
in the bench end brackets to
increase the frame’s rigidity and
strength. Remember to make
two pairs of opposing brackets
(Illust. 4, p. 66). Again, the
circular saw and chisel method
can be used to make the
notches if you don’t have something better. Drill the eight
clearance holes in each bracket.
I rummaged around in my
rather sorry collection of bits and
found only a 9 ⁄ 64" – adequate
enough for #8 screws! For
looks, you can router the outside perimeter of each bracket
Back-up surface:
(Illust. 3, p. 65). I like my trusty
The bench backrest swings
old 1⁄2" roundover bit because it
up to form half-tables.
produces such a pleasing profile.
4. Sand the bench legs, table
legs, and the bench end brackets. Attach
the legs to the bench end brackets with
17"
#8 x 2" deck screws (the brassy-looking
kind) and Type II carpenter’s glue
(Illust. 1). The advantage of Type II glue
is its water resistance. However, it runs
more and tends to ooze out of the joints
longer than ordinary wood glue so you’ll
131⁄2"
need to be extra careful when wiping it up.
5. Drill the 3 ⁄ 8" holes in the table end
29"
brackets where shown (Illust. 4, p. 66).
Router the outside and inside perimeters,
except along the top edges, of the four
clearance holes
table end and two table centre brackets.
for leg braces
121⁄4"
TABLETOP
1. Select the six best
2" x 6" x 711 ⁄ 2" boards for the tabletops.
Illustration 1
Round the outside corners of the four
outside boards as in Illust. 2. To enable
compression nuts. Make it a good snug
the two benches to fit together to form a
I then had to remove the innermost
fit (no Herc, you don’t need to crush the
large table, the table legs must be offset
boards to router them.) Ensure that the
cedar!). Carefully stand the benches
(see photo, p. 62). For Bench A, the
frames are square, and screw the boards to
upright, and swing the tabletop/bench
clearance holes for the table end bracket
the bench end brackets using #8 x 3" deck
backs up into the tabletop position.
are located 4 1 ⁄ 2" from the ends of the
screws, leaving about 1⁄ 2" between boards.
BENCHES
1. Select the six bench
tabletop; for Bench B, they are drilled
3. Router the outside edges of the bench
boards (four 2" x 4" x 711 ⁄ 2" and two
6 1 ⁄ 2" from the end. The holes for the
centre brackets and the leg braces before
centre brackets do not need to be offset
2" x 6" x 711 ⁄ 2"). Round the outside cor- assembly. I screwed the brackets in from
ners of the four 2" x 4"s.
(Illust. 2). Sand the table boards and the
underneath; countersink the holes a
2. Drill the clearance holes for the bench good 1 ⁄ 2" because you will only be using
six table brackets. Check for square, and
end brackets in the bench boards. Again, #8 x 2" deck screws. Drill the clearance
screw the boards to the brackets using
holes in the bench legs (Illust. 1) and
because the frames are offset, the clear#8 x 3" deck screws. Leave about a 3⁄8" gap
between each board to achieve the 17"
attach the bench leg braces to the centre
ance holes for Bench A and Bench B are
overall width for each table (Illust. 1).
bench boards and to the legs with #8 x 3"
different (Illust. 2). While you’re at it,
2. Turn the assembled tabletop pieces
drill the clearance holes for the bench leg deck screws. Sand.
BACK BR ACES
The back braces
upside down. Attach the table leg assem- braces as well. Router the top perimeter
(Illust. 4, p. 67) measure 633 ⁄ 4" for
bly to the inside of the table end brackets of each board before assembly. (I, natuBench A and 593 ⁄ 4" for Bench B. Each
with 3 ⁄ 8" x 4" carriage bolts, washers, and rally, made the mistake of assembly first;
64
APRIL/MAY 2002
COT TAGE LIFE
Illustration 2
711⁄2"
61⁄2"
35 ⁄ "
34
41⁄2"
Bench
5 1 ⁄2 "
Bench
A
A
Bench
Bench
TABLETOP
B
B
5 1 ⁄2 "
round outside
corners
5 1 ⁄2 "
3 1 ⁄2 "
BENCH
51⁄2"
3 1 ⁄2 "
101⁄2"
13"
Bench A
(for Bench B , 121⁄2" and 15")
5 3 ⁄8 "
7 3 ⁄8 "
carriage bolt
table end
bracket
router outside
perimeter of
end brackets only
bench leg brace
Illustration 3
brace extends about 11 ⁄ 2" beyond the
table legs. Notches (see inset detail,
p. 67) on the extensions act as stops for
the tabletops when they are tipped up,
and the extensions themselves stop the
bench backs when they’re tipped down.
The measurements given for the notches
are starting points. Begin conservatively
and whittle away a bit at a time, checking for fit as you go. I made the initial
cuts with a backsaw, but then I had to
make several fittings, adjusting the
angles with a rasp and a very sharp chisel
to get them just right; be patient. Once
you’re satisfied, check for square, sand,
then glue and screw the braces to the
table legs using two #8 x 3" deck screws
at each end.
1. When
the bench back is tilted down, it needs to
be secured; it must also be locked when
it is in the table position. Illust. 5 and 6
(p. 67) show details of the locking mechanism that satisfies both requirements (a
eureka moment at five in the morning).
The stop block (Illust. 5) has been
routered to match the profile of the table
centre bracket. Install it on the back
brace directly below the centre bracket
with glue and two #8 x 3" deck screws.
2. Make a 1⁄ 2" notch in the bottom of the
stop block with a round file or a surform
tool. Taper the leading edge of the notch
to create a flat surface that is roughly level
with the tabletop. (The notch on the top
for the bench position is added later.)
LOCKING MECHANISM
3. The swingarm assemblies consist of
1
3
4" x 1 ⁄ 2" x 12 ⁄ 4" sides, rounded at the
ends, and joined by three 1⁄ 2" x 21⁄ 2" dowels, two on the bottom and one on top.
The dowels nest in 1 ⁄ 2" pockets drilled
7 ⁄ " deep (a forstner-type bit is ideal for
16
this job, as is a drill press). Drill a small
clearance hole through the centre of each
pocket. This allows excess glue to escape
from the pocket during assembly, and is
the guide for the pilot holes that you will
need to drill for the #6 x 1" screws. Temporarily assemble the swingarm by securing both sides to the two bottom dowels
only. Ours were approximately 71⁄ 16" and
87 ⁄ 8" down from the top of the arm.
4. With the bench back in the tabletop
position (clamped to hold it in place, if
3⁄
COT TAGE LIFE
APRIL/MAY 2 0 0 2
65
necessary), position the swingarm so
that the top of the middle dowel you
just installed fits snugly into the notch
you cut in the bottom of the stop block
(left-hand photo, opposite). Then slide
the open upper end of the assembly
over the table centre bracket. Use a
small nail or awl to mark the position
where the upper dowel will pass
through the table centre bracket (that
little hole you drilled will help. The
position indicated in Illust. 6 is approximate). Drill a 1 ⁄ 2" hole through the
table centre bracket (if you are using a
drill press, you will have to remove the
bracket from the table). Slide the top
dowel piece through the hole in the
bracket, sanding the hole slightly, if
necessary, to get a nice fit.
5. Leaving the upper dowel in place,
pull the swingarm apart, sand, add glue
to the pockets, and reassemble. Screw
the swingarm sides to the dowel pieces
with #6 x 1" screws. Use a rasp or surform to adjust the fit of the middle
dowel against the notch in the bottom
of each stop block (Illust. 6).
6. With the swingarm in place, drill a
centred hole through it and the stop
block for the pin. (Precise placement
isn’t important: The pin is not loadbearing; it functions simply to hold the
swingarm in place.) I made the pins
from 3 ⁄ 8" x 8" eye bolts. Cut the
threaded portion off and taper the
ends with a flat file to remove sharp
edges and to make for a smoother fit.
Though the threaded part measures
3 ⁄ " in diameter, the smooth shank is
8
slightly smaller; start with a 21 ⁄ 64" hole.
If that is too tight, then move up to
11 ⁄ ", and so on.
32
7. Pull the pin and slide the swingarm
out. Tip the tabletop into its bench
position. Carefully cut a new notch in
the top of the stop block until the bottom dowel can be seated securely (this
will prevent the bench back from moving). The notch must be deep enough
so that you can drill a second hole
through the bottom of the swingarms
for the pin (right-hand photo, opposite).
8. Run a 12" length of open-link light
chain through the eye of the pin,
spread a link and hook it back on itself,
then close the link. Screw the other
end of the chain to the back brace with
a #6 x 1" screw. >>
66
APRIL/MAY 2002
COT TAGE LIFE
29"
11⁄2"
3
⁄4"
101⁄2"
clearance holes
R13⁄4"
31⁄2"
half-lap joint
115⁄8"
31⁄2"
22.5°
17.5°
BENCH END BRACKET (x2)
(left side shown; for right bracket create an opposing, mirror-view piece x2)
16"
⁄ " hole
38
31⁄2"
35⁄8"
51⁄2"
8"
TABLE END BRACKET (x4)
121⁄2"
11⁄2"
BENCH CENTRE BRACKET (x2)
45°
R13⁄4"
31⁄2"
3 1 ⁄2 "
⁄ " hole
38
notch for back brace
17.5°
11⁄2"
211⁄4"
30"
31⁄2"
BENCH LEG
(x4)
16 ⁄8"
3
31⁄2"
legs
trimmed
TABLE LEG
(x4)
22.5°
16"
BACK
BRACE DETAIL
31⁄2"
⁄"
14
31⁄2"
R13⁄4"
31⁄2"
TABLE CENTRE BRACKET (x2)
45°
23⁄4"
21⁄4"
11"
31⁄2"
BENCH LEG BRACE (x4)
A 633⁄4"
B 593⁄4"
BACK BRACE (x1 of each)
Illustration 4
LOCKING MECHANISM
Illustration 6
stop block
11⁄2"
The swingarm locks the tabletop (left)
and the bench (right) in position .
55⁄8"
71⁄16"
123⁄4"
table centre
bracket
8 7 ⁄8 "
3"
111⁄8"
back brace
15⁄8"
pin hole for
bench position
(approx.)
R13⁄4"
pin hole for
table position
dowel
31⁄2"
1"(approx.)
11⁄2"
R1⁄2"
STOP
BLOCK (x2)
3
⁄4"
31⁄8"
Illustration 5
COT TAGE LIFE
these
measurements
are all
approximate
APRIL/MAY 2 0 02
67
TABLE LATCH MECHANISM
Illustration 7
11⁄2"
Illustration 8
1"
#8 x 2" deck screws
taper edge
5 3 ⁄4 "
2"
33⁄4"
1 1 ⁄2 "
3
5 3 ⁄4 "
3"
A
⁄4 "
TABLE CATCH (x2)
3"
B
1⁄"
14
1 1 ⁄2 "
11"
A
⁄"
12
1 1 ⁄2 "
dowel
1⁄"
TABLE LATCH (x2)
Materials List (for two benches)
Part
Cutting list
Tabletop boards
2" x 6" x 71 1 ⁄ 2"
2
Centre bench boards
2" x 6" x 71 1 ⁄ 2"
2
Tabletop boards
2" x 6" x 71 1 ⁄ 2"
4
Table end brackets
2" x 6" x 16"
4
Back brace – Bench A
2" x 4" x 63 3 ⁄ 4"
1
Back brace – Bench B
2" x 4" x 59 3 ⁄ 4"
1
Table centre brackets
2" x 4" x 16"
2
Qty
Table legs
2" x 4" x 30"
4
Outside bench boards
2" x 4" x 71 1 ⁄ 2"
4
Bench legs
2 " x 4 " x 1 6 3 ⁄ 8"
4
Bench end brackets
2" x 4" x 29"
4
Bench leg braces
2" x 4" x 11"
4
Bench centre brackets
2" x 4" x 12 1 ⁄ 2"
2
Stop blocks
2" x 3" x 4"
2
Swingarms
3⁄
4"
Table latches
1⁄
1
2" x 1 ⁄ 2" x 11"
Table catches
1⁄
2"
x 11⁄ 2" x 12 3⁄ 4"
x 1 1 ⁄ 2" x 8 3⁄ 4"
4
2
2
*All lumber is premium western red cedar
Hardware
Deck screws
#8 x 2"
1 lb
Deck screws
#8 x 3"
1 lb
Wood screws
#6 x 1"
14
Wood screws and washers
#12 x 1 1 ⁄ 2"
2
Eye bolts
3⁄
2
8" x 8"
Finishing nails
1"
Carriage bolts with washers
3⁄
8"
4
x 4"
4
x 2'
1
and compression nuts
Light open-link chain
1'
Hardwood dowel
1⁄
2"
Varathane Natural Oil Finish
Type II carpenter’s glue
68
B
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APRIL/MAY 2002
COT TAGE LIFE
2
2L
Material
2" x 6" x 12' (x2)
2" x 6" x 8' (x4)
2" x 4" x 14' (x1)
2" x 4" x 10' (x6)
ripped from
2" x 4" offcuts
9. Swing the tabletop back up and
lock it into position. Router the outside perimeter only of the tabletops
(Illust. 2, p. 65). I free-handed this
operation, trying to be careful not to
run into the gaps, but a cedar shim or a
piece of 3⁄ 8" scrap plywood wedged into
the gap – flush to the top and end –
will prevent the router bit from wandering into this space. Sand.
TABLE LATCHES A simple latch
ensures that when the benches are combined to form a single picnic table, the
tabletop surfaces stay together (Illust. 7
and 8, above). It is nowhere near as
inspired as the tabletop lock, but it
works. Rip 1 ⁄ 2"-thick strips of 2" x 4"
for the latches and the catches. A 1 3⁄ 4"
piece of dowel is recessed into the
swinging latch arm. The illustrations
show how these are assembled. Tack
the catches together with 1" finishing
nails. Use a #12 x 11 ⁄ 2" screw for the
latch because it will resist turning.
(Note that the two tables should be
separated before you move them.)
FINISH I finished the tables with two
coats of Varathane Natural Oil Finish.
This product provides protection from
the elements and preserves the cedar’s
terrific appearance. It is also really easy
to apply – ain’t that a bonus! L
Long-time contributor Wayne Lennox
also created the adjustable dock tray
in the July/Aug. ’01 issue and the oftreplicated outhouse in July/Aug. ’99.