The Breguet Collections 2011-2012

Transcription

The Breguet Collections 2011-2012
Contents
Passion finds its echo
A passion for invention and innovation
A passion shared
Passion from the age of reason
Tradition
Classique
Classique Grandes Complications
Marine
Héritage
Reine de Naples
High Jewellery
Type XX - XXI
Type XXII
A dictionary of passion
// 3
A word from Marc A. Hayek
Breguet evokes a genuine fascination through its capacity for innovation. Its inventions have left an indelible imprint on
watchmaking history and the developments currently being achieved within the Manufacture make Breguet an undeniable reference
in its field. This philosophy is entirely in tune with my vision of fine watchmaking: its ability to push the boundaries of horological
construction, blending aesthetics with mechanical constraints, makes it a full-fledged art in its own right.
Breguet is not only a brand embodying watchmaking excellence, but also a part of our cultural heritage, brimming with history
and emotions. The timepieces emerging from the Manufacture Breguet are works of art rendered unique by the artisans’ hand, and
endowed with genuine soul. Technology dedicated to serving Art is our watchword, and creating technical masterpieces is our daily
challenge. A mere stylistic exercise? Far from it: our technical accomplishments are intended to provide tangible improvements to the
performances of the watch, its precision and its daily use, the sole purpose being to satisfy the person who has acquired it.
Right from the start, Breguet had woven close ties with science and astronomy, placing the brand at the heart of European
intellectual development. My grandfather and I have made a priority of Research & Development. Today more than ever, engineers
and watchmakers play a pioneering role, working notably on fields such as magnetism, high frequency and the properties of new
materials – like silicon and Liquidmetal ® – resulting in major breakthroughs for the entire watch industry. Breguet takes pride in
offering exceptional models.
It is this singular alchemist’s blend of hand-craftsmanship expertise and cutting-edge technologies that I invite you to explore
through our collections.
Marc A. Hayek
President and CEO of Montres Breguet SA
4 // P A S S I O N F I N D S I T S E C H O
Breguet, from rebirth to continuity.
In 1999, Nicolas G. Hayek took over one of the most pre-
Recruitment of the best-qualified watchmakers was reinforced, as
cious names in fine watchmaking which was lying somewhat
was training and the passing on of time-honoured skills by artisans
dormant at the time. Driven by a genuine passion, he infused
excelling in their respective arts and crafts.
peerless vitality into a brand endowed with an exceptional herit-
age and know-how that are recognised by its most prestigious
of-the-art testing machinery as well as in research and
Substantial and regular investments were made in state-
peers. But the creative and visionary genius that was Nicolas
development. Nicolas G. Hayek attached great importance to
G. Hayek also revived the cultural and emotional dimension of
research and would initiate work on new materials such as the
the brand and restored it to its noble pedigree.
application of silicon in watchmaking, for components such as
A new chapter in Breguet history began, studded with fab-
the escapement, as well as whole new movement projects. Under
ulous projects, daring challenges and guided by the watchword
his leadership, Breguet developed and registered more than 77
of unveiling the finest treasures emerging from an encounter
new patents, and also built a new movement each year, several
between art, beauty and technology.
of which were truly revolutionary, such as the double tourbillon.
Now able to draw upon the industrial and commercial
This innovative capacity made Breguet a reference in the field
strength of the Swatch Group, the brand had all the material and
of Haute Horlogerie, alongside its existing unique status as an
technical resources it would need to perpetuate the art of fine
integral part of the European cultural heritage.
watchmaking and to create exceptional models in order to meet
the expectations of brand devotees and connoisseurs.
museums to welcome the brand’s legendary timepieces. These
Signs of renewal soon appeared. The brand was first of all
initiatives were of course fervently supported by Breguet.
equipped with a manufacturing facility on a par with its ambitions.
Exhibitions in the Hermitage in St. Petersburg, or in the Louvre
It is this unique position that inspired the most prestigious
// 5
in Paris, are just two of these exceptional events that have
delighted connoisseurs and aficionados, as well as Nicolas
G. Hayek, who loved to view culture as synonymous with
sharing. This same desire also led the Manufacture Breguet
to take up magnificent challenges, including that of reproducing the legendary Marie-Antoinette watch that had vanished without trace.
This challenge was all the more daring in that the Breguet
master-watchmakers and engineers had only a handful of
archives and technical descriptions, and had to make use of
the techniques prevailing at the time of its making.
This love of art and beauty led Nicolas G. Hayek toward
the principle of preserving humanity’s historical and cultural
heritage well beyond the watchmaking world through various
prestigious patronage activities with a powerful emotional con-
tent. The most iconic of all, to mention but one, is undoubtedly
and exceptional achievements that Nicolas G. Hayek loved to
the restoration of the Petit Trianon, an authentic tribute paid by
share. Following his untimely death on June 28th 2010, Marc
Breguet to Queen Marie-Antoinette, a sincere admirer and loyal
A. Hayek has taken up the reins of the brand. The spirit remains
customer of the brand.
and the story continues…
It was this universe mingling art, culture, understatement
Breguet within the Swatch Group.
uphold the prestige of its name, ensure the exclusiveness of its
products and make them available in selected shops.
Not only has the Breguet company seen its turnover grow
dramatically since it joined the Group, even if its output of
watches has remained limited, but its international distribution
now benefits from much increased energy and improved effi
Since its acquisition by the Swatch Group in September
ciency. Breguet has established its essential role in the luxury-
1999, the Breguet company has enjoyed the substantial sup-
watch sector by opening its own prestigious boutiques in the
port of the world’s largest watch manufacturer. The company
world’s major destinations, including Geneva, Zurich, Gstaad,
has harnessed the Group’s resources in product development,
Paris, Cannes, London, Vienna, Moscow, Ekaterinburg, New
manufacturing, marketing and distribution to bring Breguet
York, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Miami, Dubai, Singapore,
watchmaking to demanding and sophisticated clients.
Shanghai, Beijing, Ningbo, Hong Kong, Macao, Taipei, Tokyo
and Seoul.
The Group is committed to preserving the company’s
watchmaking traditions. Breguet, like the Group’s other com
panies, maintains its separate identity and will continue to
ments have been allocated to the expansion of the Breguet
Manufacturing has received equal attention. Large invest-
// 7
workshops and to provide them with modern manufacturing
systems and the latest tools. The recruitment of highly qualified
master watchmakers will help Breguet meet the growing
demand for its watches. Creation, that reliable yardstick of a brand’s vigour,
remains a priority. Breguet’s watchmakers are hard at work
conceiving and building novel designs that interpret the
brand’s styling heritage in original ways as well as devising
original mechanisms for the Breguet time-pieces of tomorrow.
Today more than ever, Breguet thus upholds its reputation as
the supplier of timepieces to people with discriminating tastes
and an eye for the exceptional.
The watches presented in this catalogue express Breguet’s
vision of a future where its legacy provides for the development
of tomorrow’s technologies.
The Breguet Boutique in Hong Kong.
Watchmaking at Breguet.
Breguet’s archives, kept in Switzerland and in Paris,
techniques. The constant modernisation of their equipment
record the developments that have sustained Breguet watch-
reveals the motivation of the craftsmen who build the Breguet
making for more than two centuries. The firm is committed
watch : pride in their work.
to remaining ahead of its time with a flow of inventions and
improvements.
brought to his art, craftsmen work daily to perfect the time-
pieces that earn Breguet its position as the architect of fine
Today Breguet watches are made in the Vallée de Joux,
Driven by the same enthusiasm that A.- L. Breguet
the centre of advanced mechanical horology. The Breguet work
horology.
shops bring together extraordinary resources to handle the
essential aspects of watchmaking. The concentration of special-
man and machine live in harmony. Like musicians in an orches-
ised knowledge and technology covers movement construction,
tra, Breguet’s watchmakers tune their instruments to the fre-
parts manufacture and watch assembly to ensure an authentic
quencies and themes A.-L. Breguet composed centuries ago.
product of supreme quality.
Equipped with watchmaking tools that A.- L. Breguet could
measuring apparatus, the men and women who build Breguet
scarcely imagine, his successors in the Breguet workshops
watches still depend on the traditional tools that can only
combine avant-garde processes with closely guarded traditional
come to life in the practiced hands of a craftsman. And watch-
Their workshops provide the technical environment where
Although equipped with the latest optical aids and
// 9
makers still keep their old bow-lathes in the bottom drawer of
their workbenches, hoping they’ll find a pivot that needs an
expert’s attention.
Watch production is divided into a dozen very different
workshops. In one, massive presses exert tremendous forces to
cut tiny metal components. In another, removed as far as possible from all sources of vibration, numerically controlled transfer
machines mill complex shapes in metal to tolerances of a few
microns. Concentration is palpable in the dust-free atmosphere
of the assembly and casing-up workshops.
The silence is intensified by the faint hiss of a burner or
the whisper of a file as a watchmaker works some play into a
too-precise component.
Manufacture Breguet at L’Orient, Vallée de Joux, Switzerland.
All of the hundreds of operations that go into the orchestration of a Breguet watch need deft hands, experienced eyes and
an ear for the melody of time.
Manufacture Breguet’s unrivaled combination of horological tradition and
sophisticated technology generates impeccable beauty and quality in time.
The nature of their work allows craftsmen to leave their
individual imprint – in the gleam of a chamfered edge, the
pattern of circular graining or in the delicacy of engine-turning.
Each feature expresses the quiet pride of expertise in
superior performance. In a magnified world, tiny components
are progressively made true, and their surfaces finished for
unforgiving inspection, before they are combined into the
mechanism of astounding complexity that gives a Breguet
watch its life.
// 11
Breguet watchmakers regard exactitude as the sacred
duty of their art. Behind individual methods lies a common
commitment to achieving the highest standard of workmanship
through constant refinement. Applying techniques that pre-date
machines, they work quickly and precisely to create instruments
in harmony with the most demanding score of all, the silent
music of time. Breguet’s approach to watchmaking preserves
the individuality of each watch in a world of standard products.
A.- L. Breguet never made two watches exactly alike, and
there is no reason for the firm that he founded to break from
that tradition. Besides, collectors of Breguet watches would
never allow it.
Artistic craft or the art of craftsmanship, the know-how of the artisans – such as the guilloché-work or
engine-turning specialists pictured here – in the Manufacture Breguet remains one of the brand’s key assets.
The Marie-Antoinette “Grande Complication” pocket watch number 1160.
Said to have been fascinated by Breguet’s watches,
museum in Jerusalem and finally recovered in December 2007,
Marie-Antoinette acquired over the years a number of his time-
this undisputed masterpiece of horology experienced a fate so
pieces, notably a perpétuelle fitted with a self-winding device.
mysterious and bizarre that it became something of an obsession.
In 1783, a mysterious admirer of hers ordered from Breguet, as
In 2004, Nicolas G. Hayek challenged Breguet’s watchmakers to
a gift for the Queen, a watch that was to be as spectacular as
build an exact replica of this breathtaking pocket watch.
possible, incorporating the fullest range of horological expertise
known at the time. The order stipulated that wherever possible
of ancient documents proved a real challenge for the firm’s
gold should replace other metals and that auxiliary mecha-
technicians and watchmakers. The original technical drawings
nisms, i.e. complications, should be as numerous and varied
in the Breguet Museum archives and the material available in
as possible. No time or financial limits were imposed.
such rich sources of cultural information as the Musée des Arts
Recreating so many complications solely with the help
Long a purveyor to the French court, Breguet thus had a
et Métiers, both in Paris, provided the only available informa-
free hand. Alas, the Queen never got to admire her present, watch
tion and guidance regarding the watch’s every function and
number 160, known as the “Marie-Antoinette” in her honour. It
styling detail. Comparing the projected watch with contem-
was only finished in 1827, 34 years after her death, 4 years after
porary timepieces, in particularly the Duc de Praslin’s watch,
Breguet’s and 44 years after he’d accepted the order.
revealed novel aspects of the design and workshop techniques
For two centuries now, both this timepiece’s extreme
of the period. The research uncovered skills which had partly
intricacy and its fabulous destiny have fascinated watchmakers
disappeared, enabling Breguet to produce a timepiece faithful
and haunted the imagination of collectors. Stolen in 1983 from a
in every way to its fabled ancestor.
// 13
A work of art in its own right, the new Marie-Antoinette
to its special escapement with natural lift, a cylindrical balance
perpétuelle, or self-winding, watch features a minute repeater
spring in gold and a bimetallic balance. A double pare-chute
that on command strikes hours, quarters and minutes as well
shock-protection device protects the balance-wheel staff and the
as a full perpetual calendar showing the date, the day and the
oscillating weight arbors against blows and jarring.
month at two, six and eight o’clock respectively. At ten o’clock,
In April 2008, after four long years of research and
an equation-of-time display expresses the difference between
reconstruction, the new Marie-Antoinette timepiece was proud-
civil and solar time. At centre, jumping hours and a minute hand
ly placed in its impressive presentation case, carved from the
accompany a large independent seconds hand, the forerunner to
wood of the very Versailles oak tree under which the Queen
the chronograph hand, while a subdial for the running seconds is
once used to rest. situated at six o’clock. A 48-hour power-reserve indicator and a
bimetallic thermometer are positioned side by side.
The watch’s self-winding movement ( called perpétuelle
in Breguet’s day ) comprises 823 parts and components, all
finished with exceptional care. Plates, bridges and bars, every
moving part of the motion-work, calendar and repeater mechanisms are made of wood-polished pink gold. Screws are of blued
and polished steel. All friction points, sinks and bearings are
fitted with sapphires. The watch’s sophisticated design extends
Following a long dry spell and a violent storm, the Domaine
de Versailles had to have the once-mighty oak cut down, presenting its wood to Nicolas G. Hayek as a birthday gift.
16 // A P A S S I O N F O R I N V E N T I O N A N D I N N O V A T I O N
Pivotal inventions from 1775 to the present.
If Breguet holds a special place in our cultural heritage,
workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in
it is because its founder, A.- L. Breguet ( 1747-1823 ), set the
an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder
standard by which all fine watchmaking has since been judged.
escapements that he perfected.
Today, his heirs at Breguet still make each watch as a model of
supreme horological art.
A.-L. Breguet took refuge in Switzerland from the excesses
of the French Revolution. He returned to Paris overflowing with
A.- L. Breguet was born in Neuchâtel, but it was in Paris that
the ideas that produced the Breguet balance spring, his first
he spent most of his productive life. No aspect of watchmaking
carriage clock (sold to Bonaparte), the sympathique clock and
escaped his study, and his inventions were as fundamental to
its dependent watch, the tact watch, and finally the tourbillon,
horology as they were varied. His career started with a series of
patented in 1801.
breakthroughs : the development of the successful self-winding
Breguet became the indispensable watchmaker to the
perpétuelle watches, the introduction of gongs for repeating
scientific, military, financial and diplomatic élites of the age.
watches and the first shock-protection for balance pivots.
His timepieces ruled the courts of Europe. For his most dis-
Louis XVI and his Queen, Marie-Antoinette, were early
tinguished clients, Breguet designed his most remarkable
enthusiasts of Breguet’s watchmaking. Each watch from his
pieces, anticipating the wristwatch by two centuries for
// 17
Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810. Honours saluted his
enormous contribution to horology. Appointed to the Board of
Longitude and as chronometer-maker to the navy, he entered
the Academy of Sciences and received the Legion of Honour
from the hands of Louis XVIII.
When he died in 1823, all mourned the architect of the
greatest revolution in the science and art of time-keeping.
Today more than ever, its capacity to innovate reflects a
brand’s vitality. Breguet’s creativity and ingenuity have not
dwindled over time, but have on the contrary steadily increased :
witness the fact that since 1999, under the impetus of Nicolas
G. Hayek and the current management of Marc A. Hayek, the
list of patents registered during this recent period is now considerably longer than that of the founder’s inventions.
The Breguet workshops on Quai de l’Horloge in Paris, in 1775.
A selection of Breguet inventions and innovations,
from 1775 to the present day.
1780 Development of the perpétuelle,
or automatic watch
1792 Development and production of the mechanism for
the Chappe optical telegraph
1783 Invention of the gong
spring for the minute repeater
1795 First description of the sympathique clocks
Development of the perpetual date calendar
The Breguet balance spring
1786 The Breguet dial, engine-turned by hand
The ruby cylinder
1789 The ratchet key known as the “Breguet key”
1798 Patent of the constant force escapement ( March 9 )
Escapement working without oil
1790 Invention of the pare-chute
( timepiece shock absorbers )
Design of the famous
Breguet hands and numerals
1796 The single-hand watch known as the “subscription” watch
Invention of the musical chronometer, the clockwork
mechanism that acts as a metronome
1799 The tact watch
// 19
1801 Patent of the Tourbillon Regulator (June 26 )
1810 Development and production of the first wristwatch, ordered by the Queen of Naples
1812 Appearance of dials with off-centred chapter ring
1990 The sympathique wristwatch and its clock
Double power reserve
1991 Timepiece with a running equation-of-time,
perpetual equation-of-time wristwatch
1815 Fine-tuning of the double-barrelled
marine chronometer
1994 Perpetual calendar mechanism, in-line
perpetual calendar wristwatch
1819 Ocular of an astronomical telescope
1996 Timepiece movement equipped with
a perpetual calendar mechanism
1820 Invention of the montre à double seconde or observation chronometer, forerunner of the modern chronograph
1997 Patent of the in-line perpetual
calendar wristwatch
1830 First watch with keyless winding
1998 The world’s smallest self-winding
chronograph movement
1938 Start and reset mechanism of a movement
with direct-drive seconds hand
1939 Patent of the sidereal time-keeper ( February 28 )
1950 Chronograph reset mechanism
Chronograph minute counter ( 2 patents )
2002 5 patents registered, including :
Moon-phase mechanism ( Reine de Naples )
Patent for a mechanism to lock the alarm function,
column-wheel system ( Réveil du Tsar )
Gong for a timepiece striking mechanism
(minute repeater)
Tourbillon timepiece movement equipped with a
shock-protection device ( Tradition Tourbillon )
Balance for timepiece movement, titanium balance
( Tradition Tourbillon Fusée )
Watch equipped with at least two regulating systems
( Double Tourbillon )
Shock-protection device for balance pivot ( Tradition )
A musical module for a watch movement
(Réveil Musical)
Timepiece comprising a power-reserve display
device ( Tradition Tourbillon )
Gong for a striking or alarm mechanism
( minute repeater )
Balance sping with “overcoil” terminal curve
in silicon ( Tradition Tourbillon )
Timepiece comprising a high-frequency mechanical movement ( Type XXII )
Striking watch equipped with an acoustic
membrane ( Réveil Musical)
A musical module for a watch (Réveil Musical )
A balance-spring with two spiral springs
Magnetic governor for the transmission wheel(s)
of the movement or Strike ( Réveil Musical )
A total of 96 patents registered since 2002
The first magnetic strike governor in watchmaking
history equipping the model 7800 “Réveil Musical”.
The advent of silicon at Breguet.
In the watchmaking field, the properties of silicon also
prove mechanically useful for certain movement parts such as
the balance spring. The production method for silicon components, deep reactive ion etching ( DRIE ), makes it possible to
create extremely complex shapes while ensuring extreme precision, such as those required to optimise the flat balance spring.
In January 2006, Nicolas G. Hayek officially announced
The balance spring is a central component of the movement and
the result of several years of research that was to lead to a
represents the beating heart of the watch. It is also the most
technological innovation of capital importance to the entire
sensitive part if one is seeking to improve the precision of time
Swiss watch industry : the advent of silicon and its applications
measurement. Coiled in a spiral shape and coupled with the
in manufacturing a certain number of components. One of
balance, its regular oscillations impart a certain cadence to the
the advantages of silicon is that this material does not react
movement and regulate the measurement of time. It is usually
to magnetic fields. Moreover, its density which is three times
made from a metal alloy and is subject to disturbances relating
lower than that of steel or brass facilitates the making of lighter
to shocks, magnetic fields, and the earth’s gravity. The flat
parts with lower inertia, while the material itself remains extre-
balance spring, which is extremely slender, may be made from
mely solid and highly resistant to corrosion and to wear.
silicon with a degree of precision verging on perfection in terms
// 23
of the shape of its curves, thereby considerably enhancing the
results. Breguet naturally therefore owed it to itself to develop
movement’s isochronism.
a silicon version of the “Breguet balance spring” with its
Research on silicon began as early as 2006, with the
famous overcoil or terminal curve invented in 1795 by the
first applications in Breguet modules. The new Classique 5177
brand founder. Breguet had conceived the ingenious idea
watch was equipped with an escape-wheel and a lever in
of raising the end of the flat balance spring and bending
silicon, while the Classique 5197 and 5837 watches featured
it slightly towards the balance-staff, thereby ensuring a
a silicon version for three components : the escape-wheel, the
concentric development and thus enhancing the precision of
lever and the flat balance spring.
the watch. Putting a curve into a sliver of silicon in order to
Silicon and its use for the flat balance spring led to
give this part its third dimension was a major feat in the watch
some spectacular feats. By way of example, the ultra-thin
industry. Silicon is not malleable like metal and forming this
reference 502.3 movement equipped with this component
bend rising up from the coil required a complete rethinking
and housed within the 5157 model represents a major accom-
of the production process. Breguet rose to the challenge and
plishment combining slenderness ( 2.4 mm ) with exceptional
the results of the research and development were unveiled
performances.
in 2010 in an exceptional model : the Tradition 7047 with a
tourbillon and a fusée and chain type transmission, equipped
The use of silicon balance springs in various move-
ments over the past four years has shown totally convincing
with a world-first “silicon Breguet balance spring”.
High-frequency silicon.
way in which the seconds hand moves is visibly modified: since
the increase in frequency influences the duration of the tiny
The watchmakers of the Manufacture Breguet have
jumps made by the hand, the latter appears to be gently sliding
worked on other properties of silicon which imply that parts
around the dial. This softer motion is combined with higher
may be accurately machined and are distinctly lighter. This led
resolution and a more accurate display. Each second being
them to develop the Type XXII 10 Hz with silicon balance spring,
divided into 20 fractions makes it possible to measure time by
lever and escape-wheel, which became the first and only
this same unit, meaning to the nearest 20th of a second.
series-made mechanical chronograph with a frequency raised
to 10 Hz or 72,000 vibrations per hour, capable of marking off
frequency above all enhances the rate precision and stability of
20ths of a second.
the watch by improving the performance of the balance-wheel.
This increase in the frequency of the oscillator also led to
This work undertaken on high frequency thereby offers the
a real improvement in the operation of the chronograph. The
prospect of new applications beyond the realm of chronographs.
In addition to the display characteristics, the increase in
// 25
From silicon to the first magnetic components.
Developing solutions to withstand the detrimental effects of
the governor, guaranteeing the constancy of the tempo, was
the external magnetic fields present in the environment has ope-
already a challenge in itself. Nonetheless, the company watch-
ned up whole new vistas for the Breguet Research & Development
makers, who were not only concerned with overcoming the
team. The use of balance springs and escape-wheels in silicon,
disadvantages of the classic friction-based strike-governor sys-
boasting anti-magnetic properties, as well as a better understan-
tem, but also with enhancing its performance, achieved the feat
ding of the way in which magnetic fields affect the inside of the
of creating an innovative system equipped with magnets and
movement, served to envisage the use of magnets inside the
working on the principle of eddy currents (Foucault currents).
watch mechanism in order to improve its performances.
This magnetic governor thereby does away with issues of wear,
noise and the need for a large supply of energy, while ensuring
The first results were applied to the heart of the 7800
“Réveil Musical” model, a striking watch equipped with the first
increased precision.
magnetic governor in watchmaking history. Incorporating within
a wristwatch mechanism a music-box mechanism as well as
magnetic components opens up exciting new prospects.
Hitherto considered horological heresy, the introduction of
Awards
2002 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix
Ladies’ Watch Prize
Reine de Naples 8908
Public Prize
Réveil du Tsar 5707
Watch of the Year
Public Prize
Classique 5207
World Photo Press WWW Awards
Grand Prix in the Prestige category
Classique Chronograph 5238
2004 World Photo Press WWW Awards
Grand Prix in the Prestige Category
Classique Tourbillon Regulator 5307
Special Jury Prize
Tradition 7027
p. 212 p. 100
2006 World Photo Press WWW Awards
Grand Prix in the Prestige category
Tradition 7027
p. 57
p. 84
Chronos Awards
Best Concept Watch
Tradition 7037
p. 62
p. 112
Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix
Public Prize
Classique 5177
p. 79
p. 136
Chronos Awards
Best Ladies’ Watch
Reine de Naples 8928
p. 57 Watch of the Year
Jury Prize
Tradition 7027
2007 Best Watch of the Year
Prestige category
Tradition 7027
p. 57
p. 228
p. 57
// 27
Relojes & Estilograficas
Watches Days
Public Prize Men’s Watch - First Prize
Best Spanish Watch
Tradition Tourbillon 7047PT
Marine Tourbillon Chronograph 5837p. 181 Official Prize of La Revue des Montres
Grand Prix Laurent Jalou
Tourbillon Messidor 5335
2009 Robb Report China
Best of the Best complicated watch category
Double Tourbillon 5347
Relojes & Estilograficas
Ladies’ Watch Prize
Le Petit Trianon
Goldene Unruh 2010 / Uhren Magazin
Tradition 7027BB/G9
2010 Robb Report China
Best of the Best jewellery watch category
Crazy Flower
Watch magazine itTIME
Best Jewellery Watch 2010
Crazy Flower
p. 68
p. 129
Watches Days
Public Prize Ladies’ Watch - Third Prize
Reine de Naples Sonnerie 8978
p. 211
p. 145
Premio Argo
Technical category
Type XXII 3880ST
p. 259
2011 Goldene Unruh 2011 / Uhren Magazin
Tradition Tourbillon 7047PT
p. 243
p. 68
p. 59 Revolution
Technical achievement
Classique Hora Mundi 5717
p.117
p. 239
Watches Days
1st Prize for Men’s Watches
Classique Hora Mundi 5717
p.117
Watch of the Year
Jury “Coup de Coeur” special prize for the overall work
of the Breguet brand during the past twelve years
p. 239
28 // A P A S S I O N S H A R E D
Breguet archives.
A.-L. Breguet took pains to register the production and
Breguet registers, contributing to the history of its prestigious
sales of the company he founded in 1775. Each timepiece
timepieces. Today still, the company registers, constituting
was thus recorded under its individual number with a short
the core of the company archives in the Breguet Museum,
description, the date of sale and the name of the purchaser.
are a valuable source of information for watch experts and
Since that time the company has made it a point of honour
to keep up a tradition it holds dear and which underlines the
importance that it accords to each of its clients.
historians.
Opening the registers is like delving into history. In them
are the famous names that have marked their era, from Queen
A case in point is Breguet’s first 2003 institutional
Marie-Antoinette, Napoleon Bonaparte and many others, to
advertising campaign. Designed to alert brand enthusiasts
those in the news today. Discretion, however, prevents the
throughout the world to the importance of keeping this tradi-
company from revealing the names of living owners.
tion alive, its message immediately generated sharp interest.
Hundreds of family names continue to be added every year to
By acquiring a Breguet watch, each client enters into a
privileged relationship with many generations of time.
// 29
That is why Breguet invites all those acquiring the brand’s
models to record their names in the company registers,
there by perpetuating this time-honoured tradition as well as
enhancing its clients’ sense of belonging to an exclusive
circle of passionate enthusiasts.
Distinguished Breguet’s patrons.
The great and the good of every age have recognised in a Breguet watch expressions of high human ideals – creativeness, beauty,
impartiality. The watch owned by the world’s most prominent individuals holds equal fascination for their literary contemporaries.
For the most fashionable writers of every era, it’s a Breguet, rather than a watch, that comes into the story. The firm’s famed
archives record every Breguet watch sold since 1787. For its advertising campaign, Breguet selected a few of their owners who
warrant the attention of history.
// 33
A selection of Breguet’s distinguished patrons.
Duc d’Orléans (1780 )
Prince Orloff (1810 )
Queen Victoria (1838 )
Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France (1782 )
Prince Poniatowski (1811)
Duc de Morny (1841)
Louis XVI, King of France (1783 )
Prince Ferdinand of Spain (1812 )
Gioachino Rossini (1843)
Charles-Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord (1787)
Prince Charles of Spain (1812 )
Horace Vernet (1855 )
Marquise de Condorcet (1792 )
Baron Hottinguer (1812 )
Comte de Paris (1863 )
Empress Joséphine of France (1798 )
The Florence Observatory (1812 )
Empress Isabelle du Brésil (1871)
Napoleon Bonaparte (1798 )
Empress Marie-Louise of France (1813)
Sir Winston Churchill (1901)
General Charles Victor Emmanuel Leclerc (1801)
Michel Ney, Marshal of France (1813)
King Fuad I of Egypt (1924 )
The Prince of Wales (1803 )
General Davidoff (1814 )
Maharadjah of Kapurthala (1924 )
Giovanni Paisiello (1804 )
The Duke of Wellington (1814)
Arthur Rubinstein (1930 )
The Prince of Wurtemberg (1805 )
Baron Rothschild (1815 )
Sergei Rachmaninov (1931)
Sélim III, Sultan of the Ottoman Empire (1806 )
The Duke of Marlborough (1818)
Ettore Bugatti (1932 )
Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples (1807)
The Duke of Norfolk (1821)
Prince George of Greece (1934 )
Tsar Alexander I of Russia (1809 )
Louis XVIII, King of France (1821)
The Duke of Windsor (1950 )
George III, King of England (1810 )
Count Axel von Fersen (1835 )
General Napoleon Bonaparte
In April 1798, a few weeks before he left for Egypt, General
Bonaparte acquired three important timepieces from Breguet : a
repeating watch, a repeating carriage clock with a calendar, and
a self-winding perpétuelle repeating watch. The future emperor’s
family soon became Breguet’s clients.
// 35
Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France
In October 1782, A.- L. Breguet “invented, perfected and
completed” watch number 2 10/82 for Queen Marie-Antoinette.
It was a self-winding perpétuelle repeater with a date indication.
The queen recognised the work of a master, and the following
year Breguet received an astonishing request from an officer of
the Queen’s Guard : to make for her a watch incorporating all the
known horological complications and inventions.
Time and cost were apparently no object. It indeed took a
long time for the watch to catch up with A.-L. Breguet’s flow of
invention, for watch number 160 was only completed after the
queen’s death.
Gioachino Rossini
The illustrious Gioachino Rossini once owned Breguet
watch number 4604, a simple, modestly sized design displaying
the date. It featured an engine-turned gold case, an off-centred
silver dial and a lever escapement. This high-quality timepiece
was initially purchased by the banker Schickler in 1828 for 3,600
French francs. By the 1830s, the watch had passed to a certain
Mr Church. It was then owned by Rossini, who had it serviced in
1843. After the composer’s death, in 1868, his widow continued
to have the piece serviced by Breguet.
// 37
Sir Winston Churchill
Sir Winston Churchill was a regular client at Breguet, some-
times, as in 1928, to buy a watch, but more often to have the
watch he wore all his life attended to. Breguet number 765, an
exceptional minute repeater with split-seconds chronograph, was
bought by his grandfather, the Duke of Marlborough, in 1890.
The watch and the pen: literary passions.
A number of literary figures have paid tribute to the art of Breguet in their writings, among them : Stendhal, Pushkin, Prosper
Mérimée, Balzac, Alexandre Dumas, Henry Murger, Victor Hugo, and, more recently, John Fowles, Patrick O’Brian and Jiro Asada.
Stendhal
(1783-1842 )
“ Breguet makes a watch which for twenty years never goes wrong,
while the pitiful machine by which we live runs amiss and produces pain at least once a week.
”
Rome, Naples and Florence (1817)
Pushkin
(1799-1837 )
“ A dandy on the boulevards (...), strolling at leisure
until his Breguet, ever vigilant, reminds him it is midday.
”
Eugene Onegin (1825-1833 )
Prosper Mérimée
(1803-1870 )
“ The traveller regrets taking so much money with him. He looks at his Breguet watch — perhaps it’s for the last time.
He would have been happier if it were hanging safely from his mantelpiece in Paris.
”
Lettre d’Espagne (1830 )
Balzac
(1799-1850 )
“ He drew out the most delicious thin watch that Breguet had ever made. Fancy, it is eleven o’clock, I was up early.”
Eugénie Grandet (1833 )
Alexandre Dumas
(1802-1870 )
“ Danglars’ watch, a masterpiece by Breguet which he had rewound with care before
setting out the previous day, chimed half past five in the morning.
Henry Murger
”
The Count of Monte Cristo (1845 )
(1822-1861)
“ Rodolphe found Mademoiselle Laure at the trysting place.
Good, said he, for punctuality she is a feminine Breguet.
”
“Scenes of Bohemian Life” (1848), the work that inspired Puccini for his opera “La Bohème”
// 41
Victor Hugo
(1802-1885 )
“ At times the heart plays tricks and lets us down. The vigilant are right.
For God ( the mighty Breguet ) gave us faith, and seeing it was good, improved it with a watchful eye.
”
Chansons des Rues et des Bois (1865 )
John Fowles
( 1926 - 2005 )
“ He takes out his watch, a Breguet, (…) an instrument from the bench of the greatest of watchmakers.”
The French Lieutenant’s Woman (1969 )
Patrick O’Brian
(1914-2000 )
“ They were both indeed Breguet watches, wonderfully accurate, wonderfully resistant (…).” Blue at the Mizzen (1999 )
Jiro Asada
“ My watch that you see here is a jewel made by a great craftsman called Breguet.
It seems that it was once treasured by King Louis and Queen Marie-Antoinette.
It’s a real masterpiece, of unequalled precision.
”
Tooi Tsutsuoto (2002 )
Breguet constructed
his first travelling clock in 1796.
Fitting with a calendar and a repeater, this small clock, glazed on four sides and numbered 178, was bought by General
Napoleon Bonaparte in 1798. A.-L. Breguet went on to design more sophisticated models in neo-classical or astonishingly modern
styles, adding grand and small strike, perpetual calendar, moon-phases and alarm indicator. Today still, the Breguet collection
includes a travelling clock, fitted with both a hand-wound chronograph movement and a thermometer.
// 43
6190AG/12
Classique silver clock
with thermometer calibrated
in both Celsius and
Fahrenheit. Hand-wound
chronograph movement.
Centre minute totaliser
and seconds. Dial in silvered
925 silver, hand-engraved
on a rose engine.
44 // P A S S I O N F R O M T H E A G E O F R E A S O N
The Breguet style.
Breguet watches are unmistakable for their perfectly rational styling where lines are clean and functions clear. To create the
style that time cannot age, A.-L. Breguet turned to the classical rules of proportion and order. As in all precious objects, it is the
sum of detail that gives a watch its particular presence. Today Breguet watches carry the pedigree of an original design in sharp,
blued-steel hands and the crisp engine-turning of the dial.
// 45
A single number
Watch enthusiasts agree that each Breguet watch represents an exceptional standard of horological art that deserves to be
identified for posterity. Since Breguet’s early days, the manufacturing numbers of its watches have enabled collectors to confirm
their origin and provenance. In keeping with tradition, the unique production number assigned to each Breguet watch will testify
to the talent and the care of its manufacture for generations to come.
The secret signature
Their very success soon made Breguet’s watches a tempting target for counterfeiters. In 1795, Breguet came up with a
countermeasure : the secret signature. Etched into the dial, the signature is all but invisible unless the dial is examined in oblique
light. Still a token of authenticity today, the secret signature has remained a feature of most Breguet dials down to the present.
Engine-turned dials
Around 1786, Breguet began fitting his watches with engine-turned silver or gold dials of his own design. The craft of carving
recurring patterns in metal is rare today, but it remains one of the details that identify Breguet watches. Manually engine-turned,
their dials are celebrated for the fineness of their patterns, reflecting the regularity of the movements within.
An engine-turned dial is indisputably a true work of art. Smooth to start with, the solid gold dial plate is first worked with
a hand graver to outline and hollow out the areas of the dial reserved for such indications as the power reserve, the phases of
the moon, the subdial for the seconds and others, depending on the model. Engine-turning as such can now begin, resulting in a
finely textured, glareproofed matt surface. Not only do the decorative patterns selected – clou de Paris hobnailing, pavé de Paris
cobbling, sunburst, barleycorn, waves, crossweave, checkerboard, flame and many more – make the dial far easier to read, they
also contribute greatly to its unique character.
Today still, Breguet craftsmen continue to use engine-turning lathes designed and built over a century ago. With a precision
of a tenth of a millimeter, they engrave intricate patterns reflecting their uncommon virtuosity. From start to finish, engine-turning
depends essentially on the craftsman’s sharp eye and steady hand, of which the lathe is but an extension.
Once the dial plate has been meticulously engine-turned by hand, it is silver coated using techniques developed over two
centuries ago : powdered silver is delicately brushed on the plate with circular or linear movements, depending on the type of
satin-like finish desired.
// 47
Today, the same kind of engine-turned guilloché work engraved on gold Breguet dials is also executed on delicate and brittle
plates of mother-of-pearl – a truly impressive achievement in its own right.
Breguet numerals
Some Breguet watches display the distinctive numerals that A.- L. Breguet designed. Although he himself was no calligraphist,
Breguet’s Arabic numerals show his flair for combining function with elegance. Still used today, particularly on watches with enamel
dials, Breguet numerals first appeared before the French Revolution when they shared the dial with tiny stars to mark the minutes
and stylised fleur-de-lys at five-minute intervals. By 1790 they had assumed their definitive form. Caseband fluting
The fluting ( fine grooves enhanced with double beading ) on the caseband of Breguet’s watches is another of the discreet
decorative details that constitute what has become known as the Breguet style. In common with many period Breguet timepieces,
most of its modern wristwatches have fluted casebands - one of the features that set them apart from other watches. The fluted
pattern is cold-rolled into the caseband then finished by hand on a mechanical workpiece-holder.
// 49
Breguet hands
Breguet watches have featured its founder’s celebrated hollow, eccentric “moon” tip watch hands for over two centuries now.
Designed around 1783, his slim, sleek hands proved an instant success and the expression “Breguet hands” soon became a common
watchmaker’s term. Simple and easy-to-read, they are found on most Breguet timepieces and have been widely imitated by others.
Lugs
Although essential only to wristwatches, the lugs that link the strap to the case bear all the hallmarks of authentic Breguet
styling. Screw-pins, rather than the more usual sprung bars, hold the strap between the horns, a solution that is not only better
looking but also more secure. The lugs have to be welded onto the caseband as much for the technical reasons of rigidity and
strength as for aesthetic consistency. Equally exacting is the drilling of the hole for the winding stem. Only absolute precision
ensures a watertight case.
Writing instruments and cufflinks.
A sense of presence and refinement.
Conveying an ultimate touch of elegance and refinement, the writing instruments and cufflinks reflect the brand signature
features, such as the famous fluted pattern. The writing instruments crafted in silver pay tribute to literature and to the authors who
have honoured Breguet. Whether the cufflinks reveal something of the celebrated engine-turned or white grand feu enamelled dials,
reinterpret the Clou de Paris hobnail design, feature the Breguet initial or a miniature oscillating weight, all salute the splendour
of the brand’s timepieces and the skill of its watchmaking artisans.
// 51
Fountain pen, ref. WI01AG03F.
Roller pen, ref. WI02AG03F. Ballpoint pen / mechanical pencil, ref. WI03AG03F.
Complete set, ref. WIS1AG03F.
18-carat white gold. Middle section set with diamonds,
dial engine-turned by hand, ref. 9905.BB.GU.D.
Available exclusively from Breguet boutiques.
18-carat yellow gold with Clou de Paris
hobnail motif, ref. 9901.BA.CP.
// 53
18-carat pink gold and chocolate-brown enamel
with Breguet “B ”, ref. 9903.BR.EC .
18-carat pink gold with moon-phase display on grand
feu enamelled background, réf. 9905.BR.7787.
18-carat white gold and onyx,
with oscillating weight, ref. 9907.BB.OX.
Hand chamfering. Hand chamfering or bevelling is a meticulous and delicate finish that calls
for a blend of know-how and dexterity. The operation consists of rounding off the sharp edges
of watch parts using a succession of different files and then a buff composed of a lath of wood
covered with emery paper. The chamfer achieved is polished with a burnisher, a small tool generally
made of ground steel coated with diamantine polishing powder. The outline of the parts is thus
accentuated by creating a luminous shimmering effect.
56 // T R A D I T I O N
The Tradition collection by Breguet.
An invitation to journey through time and beyond time.
The Tradition collection pays a vibrant tribute to the memory of Breguet. Inspired by the legendary souscription watches of
Breguet, Tradition timepieces suggest both a return to the brand’s origins and a vision of its future. Aptly reconciling established and
avant-garde styling, their dial face accommodates horological complications in trim, aesthetically sweeping compositions. True to the
rules of flawless craftsmanship instituted two centuries ago, even their most modest parts receive a sand-blasted surface finish,
meticulously applied by hand. Masterly expressions of time’s elusive complexity, Tradition timepieces deftly capture its innermost spirit.
// 57
7027BA/11/9V6
Tradition wristwatch in 18-carat
yellow gold. Hand-wound
movement with power reserve
indicated above and underneath.
Off-centred silvered gold dial,
hand-engraved on a rose engine.
Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant
to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white
gold with silvered movement.
Diameter : 37 mm.
58 // T R A D I T I O N
7027BR/R9/9V6
Tradition wristwatch in
18-carat rose gold. Hand-wound
Off-centred black dial in gold,
hand-engraved on a rose
engine. Sapphire caseback.
Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ).
Diameter : 37 mm.
7027BR/G9/9V6
Diameter : 37 mm.
// 59
7027BB/G9/9V6
18-carat white gold. Hand-wound
Diameter : 37 mm.
62 // T R A D I T I O N
7037BA/11/9V6
18-carat yellow gold. Selfwinding movement with
retrograding seconds hand.
Diameter : 38 mm.
7037BB/11/9V6
18-carat white gold. Selfwinding movement with
retrograding seconds hand.
Diameter : 38 mm.
// 63
7057BB/11/9W6
Tradition wristwatch
in 18-carat white gold.
Hand-wound movement with
power reserve indicated on
the dial and on the back.
Diameter : 40 mm.
64 // T R A D I T I O N
7057BR/G9/9W6
in 18-carat rose gold.
Off-centred black gold dial,
Also in white gold with
slate grey movement.
Diameter : 40 mm.
// 65
7057BR/R9/9W6
Off-centred black gold dial,
Diameter : 40 mm.
68 // T R A D I T I O N G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
7047PT/11/9ZU
Tradition “Grande Complication”
wristwatch in platinum, with
fusee tourbillon. Balance spring
in silicon. Hand-wound movement
with power reserve displayed
on the barrel drum. Offcentred silvered gold dial,
Diameter : 41 mm.
// 69
7047BA/11/9ZU
Tradition “Grande Complication”
wristwatch in 18-carat yellow
gold, with fusee tourbillon. Balance
spring in silicon. Hand-wound
displayed on the barrel drum.
Off-centred silvered gold
dial, hand-engraved on a
rose engine. Sapphire caseback.
Diameter : 41 mm.
Engine turning an oscillating weight. The engine-turning lathe, or rose engine, is
a time-honoured instrument enabling the artisan to engrave tiny tenth of a millimetre
motifs in gold using a traditional technique. The comb ination of straight and circular
lines creates intricate yet elegantly restrained patterns.
72 // C L A S S I Q U E
The Classique wristwatches exemplify
the watchmaking ideals of precision, clarity and elegant lines.
Whether extra-thin models with manually wound or automatic movements or complicated watches, they are all true to the technical
principles, the artistry and the traditional values of the Breguet watch. Classique wristwatches capture the essence of Breguet’s original
features. In some models, the precious materials of former times and fired enamel dials with Arabic numerals will delight Breguet enthusiasts.
// 73
5157BB/11/9V6
Extra-thin Classique
wristwatch in 18-carat
white gold. Self-winding
movement. Balance spring
in silicon. Silvered gold dial,
Also in yellow gold.
Diameter : 38 mm.
76 // C L A S S I Q U E
5907BA/12/984
Classique wristwatch in
18-carat yellow gold.
seconds subdial. Silvered gold
dial, hand-engraved on a rose
Also in white or rose gold.
Diameter : 34 mm.
5920BA/15/984
date and seconds subdial.
Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine.
Also in white or rose gold.
Diameter : 34 mm.
// 77
5930BA/12/986
date. Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine.
Also in white gold.
Diameter : 35.50 mm.
78 // C L A S S I Q U E
5967BA/11/9W6
Extra-thin Classique
wristwatch in 18-carat
yellow gold. Hand-wound
movement. Silvered gold
Also in white gold.
Diameter : 41 mm.
// 79
5177BR/12/9V6
Classique wristwatch
Self-winding movement with
date. Lever and escape wheel
in silicon. Balance spring with
Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold
Also in yellow or white gold.
Diameter : 38 mm.
80 // C L A S S I Q U E
5177BB/29/9V6
in 18-carat white gold. Selfwinding movement with date.
Lever and escape wheel in
silicon. Balance spring with
Breguet overcoil. White
grand feu enamel dial. Breguet
Arabic numerals. Secret
signature. Sapphire caseback.
Also in yellow or rose gold.
Diameter : 38 mm.
// 81
5178BR/29/9V6 D000
18-carat rose gold. Bezel
set with 84 diamonds, approx.
0.634 ct. Self-winding movement
with date. Lever and escape wheel
in silicon. Balance spring with
Breguet overcoil. White grand feu
enamel dial. Breguet Arabic numerals.
Secret signature. Sapphire caseback.
Diameter : 38 mm.
82 // C L A S S I Q U E
5140BA/12/9W6
seconds subdial. Balance
spring in silicon. Silvered
gold dial, hand-engraved
on a rose engine. Waterresistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ).
Diameter : 40 mm.
5140BA/29/9W6
in 18-carat yellow gold.
spring in silicon. White
grand feu enamel dial. Breguet
Arabic numerals. Secret signature.
Also in white gold.
Diameter : 40 mm.
// 83
5140BB/12/9W6
18-carat white gold. Selfwinding movement with
spring in silicon. Silvered
on a rose engine. Waterresistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ).
Diameter : 40 mm.
84 // C L A S S I Q U E
5207BB/12/9V6
Self-winding movement.
Retrograding seconds subdial
and power-reserve indicator.
Off-centred chapter ring. Silvered
gold dial, hand-engraved on a
Diameter : 39 mm.
// 85
5207BB/12/BV0
Water-resistant to 3 bar
( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold.
Diameter : 39 mm.
5207BA/12/9V6
Available with yellow gold
bracelet, ref. 5207BA/12/AV0.
in 18-carat yellow gold.
Diameter : 39 mm.
86 // C L A S S I Q U E
5197BA/15/986
18-carat yellow gold. Selfwinding movement with date.
Lever, escape wheel and balance
spring in silicon. Silvered gold
( 30 m ). Also in white gold.
// 87
8067BA/52/964
bracelet, ref. 8067BA/52/AC0. Classique wristwatch in
18-carat yellow gold.
Natural mother-of-pearl dial,
( 30 m ). Also in white gold.
Diameter : 30 mm.
// 89
8068BB/52/964 DD00
18-carat white gold. Bezel and
lugs set with 64 diamonds,
approx. 1.09 cts . Selfwinding movement. Natural
mother-of-pearl dial,
Diameter : 30 mm.
8068BB/52/BCO DD00
18-carat white gold. Bezel
and lugs set with 64 diamonds,
approx. 1.09 cts . Selfwinding movement. Natural
mother-of-pearl dial,
Diameter : 30 mm.
90 // C L A S S I Q U E
8788
7787BR/29/9V6
Also Available: 36 mm diameter,
ref. 8787BR/29/986. Classique wristwatch in 18-carat
rose gold. Self-winding movement
with power-reserve indicator and
phases and age of the moon. White
grand feu enamel dial with Breguet
Arabic numerals and secret
Diameter : 39 mm.
// 91
7787BB/12/9V6
Also Available: 36 mm diameter, bezel and lugs set with diamonds,
ref. 8788BB/12/986 DD00 and 8788BR/12/986 DD00. Classique wristwatch in 18-carat
white gold. Self-winding movement
with power-reserve indicator and
phases and age of the moon.
Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved
on a rose engine. Sapphire
caseback. Water-resistant to
3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in rose gold.
Diameter : 39 mm.
// 93
8788BR/29/986 DD00
Also Available: 39 mm diameter, bezel and lugs
set with diamonds, ref. 7788BR/29/9V6 DD00. Classique wristwatch in 18-carat
rose gold. Bezel and lugs set with
96 diamonds, approx. 0.768ct.
power-reserve indicator and phases
and age of the moon. White
grand feu enamel dial with Breguet
Arabic numerals and secret
Diameter : 36 mm.
94 // C L A S S I Q U E
Watch No.5, started in 1787 but only finished in March 1794 by A.-L. Breguet for Count
Journiac St. Méard. This watch was acquired by Nicolas G. Hayek for the Breguet Museum
for the highest price ever paid at a public auction for an antique watch by Breguet.
This watch inspired the reference 3137 wristwatch of today.
// 95
3137BA/11/986
date, power-reserve indicator
and phases and age of the
moon. Balance spring in
silicon. Silvered gold dial,
Also in white gold.
96 // C L A S S I Q U E
7137BA/11/9V6
bracelet, ref. 7137BA/11/AV0. Classique wristwatch in
18-carat yellow gold. Selfwinding extra-thin movement
with date, power-reserve indicator
and phases and age of the
moon. Balance spring in
silicon. Silvered gold dial,
Also in white gold.
Diameter : 39 mm.
// 97
A watch only comes to life in a master watchmaker’s expert hands. Drawing on his professional skills and experience, he assembles, fits and adjusts every component of the movement
before encasing it and fitting on the dial.
// 99
7337BR/1E/9V6
Available with rose gold
bracelet, ref. 7337BR/1E/RV0.
18-carat rose gold. Selfwinding movement showing
the date, the day and the phases
and age of the moon. Balance
spring in silicon. Seconds
subdial. Off-centred chapter ring.
on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback.
Diameter : 39 mm.
100 // C L A S S I Q U E
5707BA/12/9V6
bracelet, ref. 5707BA/12/AV0. Le Réveil du Tsar. Classique
alarm wristwatch in 18-carat
yellow gold. Self-winding
movement with seconds subdial
and date. Second time-zone
indicator. Alarm time and alarm
power-reserve indicators. Alarm
on/off indicator. Silvered gold
Diameter : 39 mm.
// 101
5707BB/12/9V6
Available with white gold
bracelet, ref. 5707BB/12/BV0. Le Réveil du Tsar. Classique
alarm wristwatch in 18-carat
white gold. Self-winding
movement with seconds subdial
and date. Second time-zone
indicator. Alarm time and alarm
power-reserve indicators.
Alarm on/off indicator. Silvered
Diameter : 39 mm.
4
1
2
5
6
7
3
// 103
The seven engraved patterns
on the dial of the Réveil du Tsar.
1
Clou de Paris on the main dial
2
Satiné circulaire on the hour circle
3
Sauté piqué (or liseré ) on the minute circle
4
Pointes de diamant (or Pavé de Paris ) on the subdial at the “3”
5
Vieux panier on the upper half of subdial at the “9”
6
Décor flammé on the lower half of subdial at the “9”
7
Grain d’orge circulaire on the small seconds subdial at the “6” (and on the rotor )
104 // C L A S S I Q U E
The Réveil Musical watch by Breguet.
An encounter between Music and the Art of Watchmaking.
The Classique “Réveil Musical” watch plays a crystal-clear tune, “The Thieving Magpie” overture by Rossini, either on demand
or at the time set by the alarm function. Based on the 777 self-winding movement incorporating an escapement as well as a
Breguet balance spring both made in silicon, this technical masterpiece houses a patented musical mechanism. A disc carrying the
pins replaces the traditional music-box cylinder and alternately acts on the 15 metal teeth of the comb. A metallic glass membrane,
engine-turned by hand, placed beneath the movement and serving to amplify the frequencies required to emit the tune, sets the
finishing touch to this exceptional mechanism. The back of the gold case protecting the membrane in Liquidmetal ® is drilled with
several openings designed to ensure optimal sound transmission. To enhance listening pleasure, the model is equipped with the
first magnetic strike governor in watchmaking history. This patented system, equipped with magnets isolated within a cage,
manages to eliminate background noise as well as the characteristic wear typical of classic strike-governors.
Further expressing the inimitable Breguet flair for details, the presentation box is crafted from resonance wood. Resonance
spruce is the main type of wood chosen by luthiers as the vibrating membrane on stringed instruments. This wood, found in the
Risoud forest of the Joux Valley which is home to the Manufacture Breguet, remarkably amplifies the tune of the Réveil Musical.
7800BA/11/9YV
Réveil Musical. Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold.
Self-winding movement. Rotating dial hand-engraved on a
rose engine and rhodium coated. Silvered gold chapter ring.
Alarm on/off and autonomy indicators. Water-resistant to
3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Diameter : 48 mm.
108 // C L A S S I Q U E
5947BA/12/9V6
Classique split-seconds chronograph in 18-carat yellow gold.
seconds subdial. 30-minute
totaliser. Split-seconds pushpiece
in the crown. Compensating
balance spring with Breguet
overcoil. Silvered gold dial,
Also in white gold.
Diameter : 39 mm.
// 109
5247BR/12/9V6
bracelet, ref. 5247BR/12/RV0. Classique chronograph
seconds subdial and 30-minute
totaliser. Tachometric scale
indication. Silvered gold dial,
Also in white gold.
Diameter : 39 mm.
// 111
5247BR/29/9V6
bracelet, ref. 5247BR/29/RV0. Classique chronograph
seconds subdial and 30-minute
totaliser. Tachometric scale
indication. White grand feu
enamel dial. Breguet Arabic
numerals. Secret signature.
Sapphire caseback. Waterresistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ).
Also in white gold.
Diameter : 39 mm.
112 // C L A S S I Q U E
5238BB/10/9V6 DD00
Classique openworked
chronograph in 18-carat white
gold. Hand-wound movement
with seconds subdial. 30-minute
totaliser. Bezel, lugs and caseband paved with 96 baguette-cut
diamonds, approx. 13cts.
Diameter : 40.30 m m.
// 113
Gold, platinum, precious stones, mother-of-pearl.
Breguet makes a point of selecting only the finest
and noblest metals and materials
for its exceptional timepieces.
114 // C L A S S I Q U E
7717BA/1E/986
Classique wristwatch in 18-carat
yellow gold. Self-winding movement with perpetual calendar
showing, on one line, the day,
date, month and leap years,
with instant year jump. Patented
mechanism. Silvered gold dial,
Also in white gold.
// 115
5327BA/1E/9V6
Classique wristwatch in 18-carat
yellow gold. Self-winding extra-thin
movement engraved by hand, with
perpetual calendar showing the day,
date, month, leap years and the
phases and age of the moon.
Balance spring in silicon. Powerreserve indicator. Silvered gold dial,
to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white
or rose gold and in platinum.
Diameter : 39 mm.
116 // C L A S S I Q U E
Hora Mundi.
A new generation of time-zone watches.
From first glance, Hora Mundi is an invitation to journey across oceans and continents. Europe-Africa, Asia-Oceania or
America : three parts of the world are respectively depicted on three different models.
This set of three dials for a time-zone watch featuring understated indications conceals a single and extremely ingenious
mechanism. The fact that the display of the local time zone and of any other selected time zone is provided by the same hands
implies instant time change in order for the watch to be truly functional. This technical feat is accomplished by means of a
mechanical memory system featuring two heart-shaped cams. Another challenge it embodies lies in ensuring that the date and
the day/night indication are instantly aligned with the time displayed.
The Classique Hora Mundi is thus the first mechanical instant-jump time-zone watch with a mechanical memory providing
synchronised displays of the date, day/night indication and city.
// 117
5717PT/EU/9ZU
Available with America dial, ref. 5717PT/US/9ZU,
or Asia-Oceania dial, ref. 5717PT/AS/9ZU. Classique wristwatch in platinum.
Instant-jump time-zone display
with synchronised date, day/night
indication and city. Gold dial depicting
the continents of Europe and Africa,
hand-engraved on a rose engine
with “wave” motif coated with
translucent lacquer. Sapphire
Diameter : 43 mm.
118 // C L A S S I Q U E
5717PT/US/9ZU
Classique wristwatch in platinum.
indication and city. Gold dial
depicting the American continent,
Diameter : 43 mm.
5717BR/AS/9ZU
Available with Europe-Africa dial, ref. 5717PT/EU/9ZU,
or Asia-Oceania dial, ref. 5717PT/AS/9ZU. Available with Europe-Africa dial, ref. 5717BR/EU/9ZU,
or America dial, ref. 5717BR/US/9ZU. Classique wristwatch in 18-carat
rose gold. Self-winding movement.
indication and city. Gold dial depicting
the continents of Asia and Oceania,
3 bar (30m). Also in platinum.
Diameter : 43 mm.
Chasing a movement. Using one of the many scorpers or gravers that he
himself fashions on a grinding-wheel according to the motif to be executed,
the artisan engraves the drawings freehand. Gifted with artistic flair and
exemplary dexterity, he contributes to the unique nature of each part.
122 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
The Classiques “Grandes Complications”.
Art in the superlative.
Breguet’s “Grandes Complications” salute the centuries-old meeting of peerless watchmaking and mechanical mastery. Even
today, watchmakers approach this area of watchmaking with few illusions as to the magnitude of the challenge. Building a “Grande
Complication” wristwatch confronts them with a maze of technical difficulties challenging both their skill and their powers of invention.
Thinking and working in four dimensions, generations of Breguet watchmakers have driven their art to new heights, turning out minute
repeaters, perpetual calendar watches and tourbillon designs. Several patents have honoured their innovative spirit and their brilliant
research in these fields.
// 123
3357BR/12/986
Classique “Grande Complication”
wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold,
with tourbillon. Hand-wound
movement, engraved by hand.
Running seconds on the
tourbillon shaft. Compensating
Diameter : 35 mm.
3358BB/52/986 DD00
wristwatch in 18-carat white
gold, with tourbillon. Hand-wound
movement. Running seconds on
the tourbillon shaft. Compensating
overcoil. Bezel and lugs set with
74 diamonds, approx. 1.33 cts .
Natural mother-of-pearl
dial, hand-engraved on a
rose engine. Breguet Arabic
numerals. Sapphire caseback.
Diameter : 35 mm.
// 125
3355PT/00/PA0
openworked wristwatch in
platinum, with tourbillon. Handwound movement, engraved by
hand. Running seconds on the
overcoil. Chapter ring and seconds
semi-circle in silvered gold,
Diameter : 35 mm.
3355PT/00/986
platinum, with tourbillon. Handwound movement, engraved by
hand. Running seconds on the
overcoil. Chapter ring and seconds
semi-circle in silvered gold,
Diameter : 35 mm.
// 127
The tourbillon is a device formely used to
eliminate the effe cts of gravity on the rate of a watch.
A watch balance will go fast or slow depending on the position
Although progress has given watchmakers more conventional
of the watch. Breguet addressed the problem by rotating the
means of obtaining accuracy in wristwatches, the tourbillon
entire balance and escapement around their common axis once
retains its fascination by reason of the complexity of its action
a minute. This constant rotation averages out all the positional
and the sheer genius of its concept. For many, the tourbillon
errors. A.-L. Breguet received a patent from France’s Ministry of
embodies the scientific thinking of the Age of Reason.
the Interior for a new regulating device known as the tourbillon
Breguet’s tourbillon survives today because its complexity
on June 26, 1801. The document was dated according to the
offers unlimited scope for refinement and improvement. In
Republican calendar of the time, 7 Messidor, Year 9.
the space of a wristwatch, balancing the forces and inertias
The tourbillon was perhaps too technically sophisticated for
generated by rotating and oscillating mechanisms becomes
everyday use; only 35 were sold between 1805 and A.-L. Breguet’s
even more exacting. The critical element is the construction of
death in 1823. But it came into its own in the hands of his succes-
the lightweight yet strong carriage that rotates the movement’s
sors, who acknowledged it as horology’s most ingenious invention.
regulating organ.
The original drawing of the tourbillon in the patent
awarded to its inventor, A.- L. Breguet, by France’s Ministry of the Interior on June 26, 1801 ( 7 Messidor Year 9 ).
// 129
5335BR/42/9W6
Available with rose gold bracelet,
ref. 5335BR/42/RW0. Tourbillon Messidor. Classique
“Grande Complication” openworked wristwatch in 18-carat
rose gold. Hand-wound movement.
Running seconds on the tourbillon
shaft. Invisible tourbillon bridge.
Compensating balance spring with
Breguet overcoil. Water-resistant
to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in platinum.
Diameter : 40 mm.
5357PT/12/9V6
tourbillon. Hand-wound
Running seconds on the
Diameter : 39 mm.
Available with platinum
bracelet, ref. 5357PT/12/PV0.
// 133
5357BA/1B/9V6
bracelet, ref. 5357BA/1B/AV0. Classique “Grande Complication”
”B”-shaped running seconds on
Also in platinum.
Diameter : 39 mm.
5359BB/6B/9V6 DD0D
in 18-carat white gold, with
tourbillon. Hand-wound movement.
shaft. Compensating balance spring
with Breguet overcoil. Bezel, lugs
and caseband paved with 134
baguette-cut diamonds, approx.
10.37 cts . Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine and paved
with 356 diamonds, approx. 0.50ct .
5307BA/12/9V6
bracelet, ref. 5307BA/12/AV0. Classique “Grande Complication”
gold, with tourbillon. Self-winding
Off-centred chapter ring. Centre
minutes hand. Running seconds on
balance spring with Breguet overcoil.
Diameter : 39 mm.
// 137
5307PT/12/9V6
Available with platinum bracelet,
ref. 5307PT/12/PV0. Classique “Grande Complication”
tourbillon. Self-winding movement,
engraved by hand. Off-centred
chapter ring. Centre minutes hand.
with Breguet overcoil. Silvered
gold dial, hand-engraved on
a rose engine. Sapphire caseback.
Diameter : 39 mm.
// 139
5317BA/12/9V6
wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold,
with tourbillon. Self-winding
movement engraved by hand.
5-day power-reserve indicator.
with Breguet overcoil. Silvered
Also in pink gold and in platinum.
Diameter : 39 mm.
3755PR/1E/9V6
platinum, with tourbillon. Pinkgilded hand-wound movement
engraved by hand. Perpetual
calendar showing the day, date,
month and leap years. Running
seconds on the tourbillon
shaft. Compensating balance
spring with Breguet overcoil.
Diameter : 39 mm.
// 141
3757BA/1E/9V6
Perpetual calendar showing the day,
date, month and leap years. Running
seconds on the tourbillon shaft.
Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold dial,
Diameter : 39 mm.
3657BA/12/9V6
Power-reserve indicator and 24-hour
time display. Running seconds on
3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in platinum.
Diameter : 39 mm.
1801BB/12/2W6
on a rose engine. Engineturned gold cover, inscribed
“Tourbillon”. Sapphire caseback.
1801BR/12/2W6
wristwatch in 18-carat rose
gold, with tourbillon. Handwound movement, engraved
by hand. Small seconds on the
on a rose engine. Engineturned gold cover, inscribed
“Tourbillon”. Sapphire caseback.
// 143
1808BR/92/9W6 DD00
Small seconds on the tourbillon
Black rhodium gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine.
Gold cover, inscribed “Tourbillon”
and set with 706 diamonds,
approx. 4.70 cts. Sapphire caseback.
The Breguet Twin Rotating Tourbillon Watch.
Technically and aesthetically innovative, it comes equipped with twin rotating tourbillon carriages powered by a hand-wound
mechanical movement. Working independently one from the other, the tourbillons are coupled via differential gears. These transmit the
tourbillons’ mean rate to the rotating centre plate. The time of day is shown by an hour hand mounted on the mechanism bearing
the pair of tourbillons and a standard minute hand at centre. Protected by a sapphire crystal, the back of this exceptional timepiece
reveals the fascinating beauty of its movement, itself engraved with a representation of the solar system.
// 145
5347PT/11/9ZU
wristwatch in platinum with twin
rotating tourbillons. Two independent tourbillons affixed by a
bridge to a centre plate making
a complete rotation in 12 hours.
Balance springs with Breguet
overcoil. Manually engraved
hand-wound movement. Silvered
gold chapter ring. Centre plate
Also in rose gold.
Diameter : 44 mm.
5347BR/11/9ZU
with twin rotating tourbillons. Two
independent tourbillons affixed by a
bridge to a centre plate making a
complete rotation in 12 hours. Balance
springs with Breguet overcoil. Manually
engraved hand-wound movement.
Silvered gold chapter ring. Centre
plate hand-engraved on a rose engine.
Diameter : 44 mm.
// 149
5349PT/11/9ZU DD0D
wristwatch in platinum, with twin
rotating tourbillons. Two independent
tourbillons affixed by a bridge to
a centre plate making a complete
rotation in 12 hours. Balance
springs with Breguet overcoil.
Manually engraved hand-wound
movement. Bezel, lugs and caseband
paved with 107 baguette-cut
diamonds, approx. 30.30 cts. Silvered
gold chapter ring and centre plate
paved with 310 diamonds, approx.
1.62 cts. Sapphire caseback.
Diameter : 50 mm.
The equation of time.
From time immemorial, the Sun has served as the basis of
16 minutes behind true solar time, as is the case on November 3;
time measurement. Nonetheless, the visible orbit of the Sun –
or up to 14 minutes ahead of it, as is the case on February 12.
the true solar time shown on sundials – is irregular.
The two values are exactly matched on just four days a year.
Thanks to improvements in horological accuracy, watches
A.-L. Breguet made some remarkable watches indicating the
and clocks have now become the foundation of our timekeeping
equation of time, but Breguet has since refined the complication.
system and true solar time has been replaced by mean solar
The firm’s horologists have devised and patented a perpetual equa-
time in which all days are equal. The equation of time is the
tion of time mechanism, combined with a perpetual calendar. Both
difference between these two times. Mean solar tune runs up to
are designed to function without correction for over two centuries.
// 151
February 12
~ +14 minutes
April 16
Representation of mean solar time
Representation of true solar time
June 14
Sun
December 25
November 3
~ -16 minutes
September 1
This non-scientific diagram provides a conventional illustration of the
difference between mean solar time ( in which all days have an equal
24-hour duration ) and true solar time ( according to which days have
a variable duration ranging from 23 hours and 44 minutes to 24 hours
and 24 minutes ). The term “equation of time” refers to the difference
between mean solar time and true solar time, and an “equation of time
watch” means a timepiece capable of displaying this difference.
The characteristic equation of time cam reflecting the
representation of true solar time ( illustration on page 151 ).
// 153
3477BR/1E/986
wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold.
Self-winding movement with perpetual
equation of time, power-reserve
indicator and perpetual calendar
showing the day, date, month and
leap years. Patented mechanism.
Also in yellow gold or platinum.
The minute repeater : the sound of time.
The leading horologists of the late 17th century vied to create a chiming watch that would allow the time to be known on
demand in the dark. Around 1680 they produced the first repeating watches. Since then, a number of watchmakers have contributed
to the development of the repeater, improving its accuracy from the nearest quarter-hour to the nearest minute. A.-L. Breguet was
responsible for a decisive invention in the development of the repeater. Replacing the bells of the early repeaters with strip-steel gongs
curved around the movement, he greatly reduced the size of the repeating watch while retaining a good quality of sound.
A.-L. Breguet’s gongs are still essential to repeaters, while metallurgical advances have considerably improved their sound.
Building a minute repeater is the job of an experienced watchmaker. Along with a musical ear, it demands great manual dexterity.
The slightest mistake can ruin hours of work.
// 155
7637BB/12/9ZU
minute repeater wristwatch in
Subdial for the seconds. 24-hour
display with day and night sectors.
caseback. Also in rose gold.
Diameter : 42 mm.
5447BB/1E/9V6
movement, engraved by hand
with perpetual calendar showing
the day, date, month, leap
years and phases and age of
the moon. Silvered gold dial,
Sapphire caseback.
Diameter : 40 mm.
// 159
5447BR/1E/9V6
movement, engraved by hand
with perpetual calendar showing
the day, date, month, leap
years and phases and age of
the moon. Silvered gold dial,
Diameter : 40 mm.
7639BB/6D/9XV DD0D
Bezel, caseband, repeating-slide
and lugs set with 160 baguettecut diamonds, approx. 10.82 cts.
Dial paved with 392 baguette-cut
diamonds, approx. 6.73 cts,
silvered gold chapter ring with
12 diamond hour-markers, approx. 0.017ct. Sapphire caseback.
// 163
1907BA/12
pocket watch in 18-carat yellow
gold, with grand strike and
tourbillon. Manually engraved
hand-wound movement
with 2-way rotating crown.
Off-centred chapter ring. Centre
minute hand. Silvered gold dial,
Sapphire caseback.
Engine-turning a case-back. Expressing a keen sense of detail, the caseback is engraved by an artisan who handles the engine-turning lathe with great
sensitivity: the operation is performed by the craftsman’s hand, of which the
instrument is but an extension.
166 // M A R I N E
The Marine Collection.
Breguet, chronometer maker to the French Royal Navy.
Marine watches are based on the traditional Breguet values, while interpreting them in a contemporary way in order to
create sporty timepieces. The Marine watches possess all the qualities laid down by A.-L. Breguet as chronometer maker to the
French Navy. A reinforced case and a protected crown make the Marine watches safe in action, while their workmanship and
styling show that elegance always outranks fashion.
// 167
5817ST/92/5V8
Available with steel bracelet,
ref. 5817ST/92/SV0.
Marine wristwatch in steel.
large date and centre seconds
hand. Black rhodium gold dial,
Screw-locked crown. Waterresistant to 10 bar (100m).
Diameter: 39mm.
168 // M A R I N E
5817ST/12/5V8
Self-winding movement
with large date and centre
seconds hand. Silvered gold
dial, hand-engraved on
a rose engine. Sapphire
caseback. Screw-locked crown.
Diameter : 39 mm.
5817ST/12/SV0
Self-winding movement
seconds hand. Silvered gold
dial, hand-engraved on
a rose engine. Sapphire
Diameter : 39 mm.
// 169
5817BA/12/9V8
bracelet, ref. 5817BA/12/AV0.
Marine wristwatch in
18-carat yellow gold. Selfwinding movement with large
date and centre seconds hand.
Diameter : 39 mm.
170 // M A R I N E
5817BR/Z2/RV0
Marine wristwatch in 18-carat
seconds hand. Black rhodium
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100m).
Diameter: 39mm.
// 171
5817BR/Z2/5V8
seconds hand. Black rhodium
Diameter : 39 mm.
172 // M A R I N E
5827BB/12/5ZU
Marine chronograph in 18-carat
with date and seconds subdial.
15-minute sector. Centre chronograph
minutes and seconds. Silvered
Diameter : 42 mm.
// 173
5827BB/12/BZ0
15-minute sector. Centre
chronograph minutes and seconds.
Diameter : 42 mm.
174 // M A R I N E
5827BR/Z2/5ZU
ref. 5827BR/Z2/RZ0.
15-minute sector. Centre chronograph minutes and seconds. Black
rhodium gold dial, hand-engraved
Diameter : 42 mm.
176 // M A R I N E
5847BB/92/BZ0
5847BR/32/5ZV
Marine Royale alarm
gold. Self-winding movement
with date. Alarm power-reserve
indicator. Self-winding alarm on/off
indicator. Pink-gilded gold dial,
Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown.
Diameter : 45 mm.
ref. 5847BR/32/RZ0.
Available with rubber strap, ref. 5847BB/92/5ZV.
Available with silvered dial, ref. 5847BB/12/BZ0.
Marine Royale alarm
indicator. Self-winding alarm
on/off indicator. Black rhodium gold
dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine.
Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown.
Water-resistant to 30 bar (300 m ).
Diameter : 45 mm.
// 177
5847BR/Z2/5ZV
ref. 5847BR/Z2/RZ0.
Marine Royale alarm
on/off indicator. Dial in slate
grey rhodium-plated gold, handengraved on a rose engine. Sapphire
Diameter : 45 mm.
178 // M A R I N E
5847BB/12/5ZV
Available with white gold bracelet, ref. 5847BB/12/BZ0.
Available with black dial, ref. 5847BB/92/5ZV.
Marine Royale alarm
on/off indicator. Silvered
Diameter : 45 mm.
180 // M A R I N E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
In 1795, Breguet bent the outer coil of a balance spring
towards the balance-staff to form a carefully calculated curve.
Thanks to their “Breguet overcoil”, balance springs could
now develop concentrically, thereby improving timekeeping precision.
// 181
5837BR/92/5ZU
ref. 5837BR/92/RZ0.
Marine chronograph “Grande
Complication” in 18-carat rose
gold, with tourbillon. Handwound movement. Balance
spring, lever and escape wheel
in silicon. Tourbillon carriage in
titanium. Running seconds on
the tourbillon shaft. 30-minute
and 12-hour totalisers. Black
rhodium dial, hand-engraved on a
Diameter : 42 mm.
184 // M A R I N E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
5837PT/U2/5ZU
Complication” in platinum, with
tourbillon. Hand-wound movement.
Balance spring, escape wheel and
lever in silicon. Tourbillon carriage
in titanium. Running seconds
on the tourbillon shaft. 30-minute
and 12-hour totalisers. Dial in
silvered platinum-coated gold,
Sapphire caseback. Waterresistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ).
Diameter : 42 mm.
// 185
5839BB/6D/9ZU DD0D
Complication” in 18-carat white gold,
with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement.
Balance spring, escape wheel and
lever in silicon. Tourbillon carriage
in titanium. Running seconds on the
tourbillon shaft. 30-minute and 12-hour
totalisers. Bezel, caseband, lugs, crown
and pushpieces paved with 186 baguettecut diamonds, approx. 11.77cts. Silvered
gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose
engine and set with 132 diamonds,
approx. 0.35 ct. Sapphire caseback.
Diameter : 43 mm.
186 // M A R I N E
5829BR/8R/9ZU DD0D
Available with a 15-minute sector paved with
baguette-cut diamonds, ref. 5829BR/8D/9ZU DD0D.
with date and small seconds. Centre
Bezel, lugs and caseband paved
with 158 baguette-cut diamonds,
approx. 10.45 cts . 15-minute
sector paved with 55 baguette-cut
rubies, approx. 1.12 cts. Natural
mother-of-pearl dial, hand-engraved
Diameter : 42 mm.
// 187
5829BB/8D/9ZU DD0D
Available with a 15-minute sector paved with
baguette-cut sapphires, ref. 5829BB/8S/9ZU DD0D.
with date and small seconds. Centre
Bezel, lugs and caseband paved
approx. 10.45 cts . 15-minute
sector paved with 55 baguette-cut
diamonds, approx. 0.85 ct. Natural
mother-of-pearl dial, hand-engraved
Diameter : 42 mm.
188 // M A R I N E
8818BB/59/564 DD00
white gold. Bezel and lugs set
with 58 diamonds, approx. 1.25 cts.
Self-winding movement. Natural
mother-of-pearl dial, handengraved on a rose engine and
set with 10 diamonds, approx.
0.025 ct. Sapphire caseback.
Diameter : 30 mm.
// 189
8818BB/59/864 DD0D
white gold. Bezel and lugs set
with 58 diamonds, approx. 1.25 cts.
Self-winding movement. Natural
mother-of-pearl dial, handengraved on a rose engine and
set with 10 diamonds, approx. 0.025 ct. Sapphire caseback.
Diameter : 30 mm.
192 // M A R I N E
A masterpiece in miniature.
The smallest self-winding chronograph movement in the world.
Women have demanded and inspired some of Breguet’s most spectacular achievements from the firm’s earliest days. The
Marie-Antoinette watch, for example, is one of the most important ( and sought-after ) timepieces in the history of horology. Noteworthy
also is the first wristwatch, a Breguet invention for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples. It is thus for ladies’ watch that Breguet has
stretched technical limits to create the smallest self-winding chronograph of its class. Full chronograph functions, governed precisely
by a column-wheel and a self-winding movement with a date and running seconds interact in a 10 1/2 line calibre barely 6 mm thick.
In a lady’s watchcase, the chronograph is transformed into a tiny, but perfect, mechanical jewel.
// 193
ACTUAL
8827BR/52/586
with date calendar and subdial
for the seconds. 30-minute
and 12-hour totalisers. Natural
mother-of-pearl dial, handengraved on a rose engine.
194 // M A R I N E
8828BB/5D/586 DD00
for the seconds. 30-minute and
12-hour totalisers. Natural motherof-pearl dial, hand-engraved
on a rose engine and set with
7 diamonds, approx. 0.0105 ct.
Bezel and lugs set with 74
diamonds, approx. 1.16 cts.
Diameter : 34.60mm.
8828BR/5D/586 DD00
12-hour totalisers. Natural motherof-pearl dial, hand-engraved
on a rose engine and set with
7 diamonds, approx. 0.0105 ct.
Diameter : 34.60mm.
Straightening. At the crossroads between finishing and decoration, straightening
serves to create a satin-brushed effect on the parts, thus contributing to the play
on aesthetic contrasts within the movement. The steel parts are held securely in
their bases and hand-worked on emery paper.
198 // H É R I T A G E
Héritage collection.
The curve that challenges technical mastery.
A Breguet watch does not need its conventional round case to be recognised for what it is. The Héritage models show that even
in a curved tonneau case, a Breguet remains unmistakably a Breguet. Adapting late 18 th century styling concepts to the shapes of
the 21st century demands a great deal from design engineers, casemakers and dialmakers. But the perfect curves of the case and
the delicately engine-turned dial set off the caseband fluting and exquisitely designed lugs to their best advantage.
// 199
3660BB/12/984
Héritage wristwatch in
18-carat white gold. Curved
tonneau-shaped case. Selfwinding movement with running
seconds. Curved silvered gold
engine. Water-resistant to
Dimensions : 35x 29.60 mm.
200 // H É R I T A G E
3661BR/12/984 DD00
18-carat rose gold. Curved
tonneau-shaped case. Self-winding
movement with running seconds.
diamonds, approx. 1.869 ct.
Curved silvered gold dial,
Also in white gold.
Dimensions : 35 x 29.60 mm.
// 201
5480BB/12/996
Available with white gold bracelet,
ref. 5480BB/12/BB0.
tonneau-shaped case. Selfwinding movement with large
date and running seconds.
Curved silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine.
Also in yellow or rose gold.
Dimensions : 40.40 x 34 mm.
202 // H É R I T A G E
5460BA/12/996
Available with yellow gold bracelet,
ref. 5460BA/12/AB0.
Héritage chronograph in
18-carat yellow gold. Curved
tonneau-shaped case. Self-winding
movement with running seconds
and date. 30-minute and 12-hour
totalisers. Curved silvered gold dial,
Also in white gold.
Dimensions : 37.50 x 31.60 mm.
// 203
5469BB/62/996 DD0D
5460BB/12/BB0
tonneau-shaped case. Selfwinding movement with
running seconds and date.
30-minute and 12-hour totalisers.
Curved silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine.
Available with leather strap,
ref. 5460BB/12/996.
tonneau-shaped case. Selfwinding movement with
date and running seconds.
30-minute and 12-hour totalisers.
Bezel, lugs and caseband set
approx. 11.28 cts. Curved
silvered gold dial, hand-engraved
on a rose engine and paved with
84 diamonds, approx. 0.283ct.
Dimensions : 40.40 x 34 mm.
206 // H É R I T A G E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
5497BR/12/9V6
Héritage “Grande Complication”
Small seconds on the tourbillon
Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine.
Partial sapphire caseback.
Dimensions : 42 x 35 mm.
ref. 5497BR/12/RB0.
// 207
5497PT/12/9V6
Available with platinum bracelet,
ref. 5497PT/12/PB0.
Héritage “Grande Complication”
wristwatch in platinum,
movement, engraved by hand. Small
seconds on the tourbillon shaft.
Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold dial,
Dimensions : 42 x 35 mm.
Engraving an oscillating weight. Hand engraving is an art
form that highlights the aesthetic beauty of the component and
also endows it with unique character.
210 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
Reine de Naples Collection.
Breguet created the first wristwatch for a queen.
Breguet creations have consistently attracted and fascinated women, including famous patrons such as Marie-Antoinette, Queen of
France, the Marquise de Condorcet, and the Empress Josephine of France. The list of Breguet’s fervent female admirers also includes
Caroline Murat, to whom he delivered in 2012 – two hundred years ago already – a model that was truly unprecedented at the time:
the first wristwatch. Its oval shape was not less exceptional. The description meticulously recorded in the company archives hints at
the refined and ingenious nature of this model: “oblong-shaped minute repeater watch (...), the said watch being fitted with a wristlet
made of hair intertwined with gold thread”.
The models in the Reine de Naples line, anthems of praise to femininity, are inspired by this legendary creation: resolutely
modern, refined and suffused with an exquisitely poetic touch.
// 211
8978BB/58/974 D00D
Reine de Naples “Grande Complication”
wristwatch in 18-carat white gold with
hour strike. Bezel set with 30 diamonds
weighing approx. 2.93 cts. Alarm on/off
indicator set with one diamond, approx.
0.0095 ct. Self-winding movement
engraved by hand. White natural motherof-pearl dial. Off-centred chapter ring with
Breguet Arabic numerals. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ).
212 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S
8908BB/52/864 D00D
ref. 8908BB/52/J20 D000.
Reine de Naples wristwatch
in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and
dial flange set with 128 diamonds
weighing approx. 0.83 ct. Self-winding
movement with running seconds.
Power-reserve and moon-phase
indicators. Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine and
partly in white natural mother-of-pearl.
to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold.
// 215
8908BB/V2/864 D00D
in 18-carat white gold. Bezel
and dial flange set with 128
diamonds weighing approx. 0.83 ct. Self-winding movement
with running seconds. Powerreserve and moon-phase
indicators. Silvered gold dial,
engine and partly in blue
natural mother-of-pearl.
Sapphire caseback.
8908BA/V2/864 D00D
Available with white gold bracelet
ref. 8908BB/V2/J20 D000.
Available with yellow gold bracelet,
ref. 8908BA/V2/J20 D000.
in 18-carat yellow gold. Bezel
and dial flange set with 128
diamonds weighing approx. 0.83 ct. Self-winding movement
with running seconds. Powerreserve and moon-phase
indicators. Silvered gold dial,
engine and partly in blue
natural mother-of-pearl.
Sapphire caseback.
8909BB/VD/J29 DDDD
Reine de Naples wristwatch in
18-carat white gold. Bezel and caseband paved with 86 baguette-cut
diamonds, weighing approx. 6.85 cts.
Self-winding movement. Power-reserve
and moon-phase indicators. Silvered
gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose
engine paved with 67 diamonds,
approx. 0.168 ct, and partly in blue
natural mother-of-pearl. Bracelet set
with 650 diamonds, approx. 3.661 cts,
151 baguette-cut diamonds, approx.
5.538 cts, and 11 diamonds,
8909BB/VD/864 D00D
caseband paved with 89 baguette-cut
and moon-phase indicators.
on a rose engine paved with
67 diamonds, approx. 0.168 ct,
and partly in blue natural motherof-pearl. Sapphire caseback.
// 217
8909BB/VD/J29 DDD0
caseband paved with 86 baguette-cut
and moon-phase indicators. Silvered gold
dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine
paved with 67 diamonds, approx. 0.168 ct,
and partly in blue natural mother-of-pearl.
Bracelet set with 650 diamonds, approx.
3.661 cts, 151 baguette-cut diamonds,
approx. 5.538 cts, and 11 sapphire cabochons,
8909BB/5D/J21 RRRR
Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat
white gold. Bezel and caseband set with
48 baguette-cut rubies, approx. 4.31cts and
38 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 2.80 cts.
Self-winding movement. Power-reserve and
moon-phase indicators. Silvered gold dial,
hand-engraved on a rose engine and paved
with 67 diamonds, approx. 0.168 ct,
and partly in white natural motherof-pearl. Bracelet set with 371 diamonds,
approx. 1.949 cts and 11 oval rubies,
// 221
Polishing gives the case its inimitable sheen
without altering its original proportions.
A painstaking manual process, perfect polishing demands an experienced eye and hand.
8918BB/58/J39 D00D
Available with a white gold bracelet set
with diamonds, ref. 8918BB/58/J31 D0DD.
movement. Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine and partly
in white natural mother-of-pearl.
Breguet Arabic numerals. Pearcut diamond, approx. 0.09 ct,
at 6 o’clock. Sapphire caseback.
// 223
8918BB/58/864 D00D
Breguet Arabic numerals. Pear-cut
diamond, approx. 0.09 ct,
Dimensions : 36.50 x 28.45 mm
8918BR/58/864 D00D
ref. 8918BB/58/J20 D000.
ref. 8918BR/58/J20 D000.
in 18-carat rose gold. Bezel and
Breguet Arabic numerals. Pear-cut
diamond, approx. 0.09 ct,
Dimensions : 36.50 x 28.45 mm
8939BB/6D/864 DD0D
caseband set with 91 baguette-cut
Self-winding movement. Chapter
ring paved with 42 baguette-cut
and hour markers in natural
mother-of-pearl. Silvered gold dial,
Pear-cut diamond, approx. 0.09 ct,
8939BB/6D/J61 DDDD
diamonds, approx. 2.77 cts, and hour
markers in natural mother-of-pearl.
on a rose engine. Pear-cut diamond,
approx. 0.09 ct, at 6 o’clock.
Bracelet paved with 320 diamonds,
approx.14.05 cts. Sapphire caseback.
// 225
8939BB/6D/J49 DD0D
and hour markers in natural
mother-of-pearl. Silvered gold dial,
Pear-cut diamond, approx. 0.09 ct,
at 6 o’clock. Bracelet with pink
Akoya pearls. Sapphire caseback.
// 227
Reine de Naples ring in 18-carat white gold paved with 118 brilliant-cut
diamonds ( approx. 0.82 cts ), 168 baguette-cut diamonds ( approx. 7.29 cts )
and set with a blue sapphire ( approx. 7.75 cts ), ref. GJE07BB05.9130.
8928BB/51/844 DD0D
ref. 8928BB/51/J20 DD00.
in 18-carat white gold. Bezel,
dial flange and lug set with
139 diamonds totalling approx. 1.32 cts. Self-winding movement.
White natural mother-of-pearl
dial. Off-centred chapter ring
with Roman numerals. Sapphire
3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold.
// 229
8928BB/8D/844 DD0D
dial flange and lug set with 139
diamonds totalling approx. 1.32 cts.
Self-winding movement. Silvered
gold dial paved with 211 diamonds,
approx. 0.63 ct. Off-centred chapter
ring in natural mother-of-pearl
with Breguet numerals. Sapphire
8928BB/8D/J20 DD00
dial flange and lug set with 139
diamonds totalling approx. 1.32 cts.
Self-winding movement. Silvered
gold dial paved with 211 diamonds,
approx. 0.63 ct. Off-centred chapter
ring in natural mother-of-pearl
with Breguet numerals. Sapphire
// 231
8928BA/51/J20 DD00
Available with satin strap,
ref. 8928BA/51/844 DD0D.
in 18-carat yellow gold. Bezel,
dial flange and lug set with
139 diamonds totalling approx. 1.32 cts. Self-winding movement.
White natural mother-of-pearl
dial. Off-centred chapter ring
with Roman numerals. Sapphire
3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold.
232 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S A C I E R
When steel reinterprets the most
emblematic exclusively feminine Breguet models.
In response to the demands of today’s woman, it sheds the classic visual characteristics of the Reine de Naples collection to
opt for the elegance of an oversized dial adorned with geometrical-patterned and undulating calligraphy-style raised numerals. The
sparkle of diamonds gives way to the shimmering gleam of the sturdy metal embracing the exquisite mother-of-pearl... The magic
weaves its spell, giving rise to a resolutely contemporary and daringly contrasted model.
// 233
8967ST/58/986
Also with blue natural mother-of-pearl
dial, ref. 8967ST/V8/986.
in steel. Self-winding movement.
Balance spring and escapement
in silicon. White natural
mother-of-pearl dial with
Breguet Arabic numerals.
Sapphire caseback.
Reine de Naples Cammea.
Breguet honours the hand-crafted cameo carving tradition.
The Reine de Naples Cammea features an unusual encounter between two arts: haute horlogerie and cameo carving, of which
the international capital, Torre del Greco, is located in the region of Naples. The cameo dial is a true miniature sculpted in genuine
shell. Off-centred at 6 o’clock, the hour and minute hands seem to make themselves as discreet as possible so as to let the cameo
fully express its resplendent beauty. Using a simple steel stylus, the craftsman carves the different layers of shell material to a depth
of no more than two millimetres, achieving a sculpture of uncommon fineness. His art consists in carefully examining and selecting
the shell’s various hues, its stratification, its perspectives and shadings as well as its overall transparency.
// 235
8958BB/51/974 D00D
in 18-carat white gold. Bezel
set with 40 diamonds, approx. 2.42 cts. Self-winding movement.
Dial made out of seashell,
crafted as a cameo. Waterresistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ).
238 // H I G H J E W E L L E R Y
In salute to the contemporary woman.
An homage to her sensibility and a celebration of her elegance.
From the very first, Breguet’s timepieces have captured the inner grace and harmony that cast women in the exalted role of
poet’s muse, inspiring artists and enthralling writers. Down the centuries, the spellbinding beauty, refinement and cultural
significance of its designs have never failed to appeal to discerning women everywhere. Aesthetic excellence and superlative
technical construction have thus earned watches by Breguet a fabled role in the life of history’s most illustrious women, including
Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France, and Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples.
// 239
GJE25BB20.8989DB1
Crazy Flower. Wristwatch in
18-carat white gold. Caseband
set with 116 mobile and independent baguette-cut diamonds,
totalling 34.57 cts. Dial flange set
with 66 diamonds, approx. 0.13 ct.
Inward-sloping dial paved with 206
diamonds totalling approx. 0.80 ct.
Off-centred chapter ring set
approx. 0.46 ct. Self-winding
movement. Sapphire caseback.
GJE26BB20.8589DB1
Petite Fleur. Wristwatch in 18-carat
white gold. Caseband set with 43
mobile and independent baguette-cut
diamonds, totalling approx. 12.60 cts.
Dial flange set with 48 diamonds,
approx. 0.10 ct. Dial paved with 141
diamonds, approx. 0.52 ct. Self-winding
movement. Sapphire caseback.
Diameter: 17mm.
// 241
GJE20BB20.8924D01
Les Jardins du Petit Trianon Les Glycines. Wristwatch in 18-carat
white gold. Bezel, dial flange, caseband
and lug paved with 284 diamonds
totalling approx. 3.81 cts. Bow motif
set with 6 pear-shaped diamonds
weighing approx. 1.42ct and paved
with 71 diamonds representing approx. 4.17 cts. Self-winding movement.
Dial in silvered gold and white natural
mother-of-pearl. Sapphire caseback.
// 243
GJE23BB20.8924D01
Le Petit Trianon. Wristwatch in
18-carat white gold. Bezel, caseband, dial flange and lugs paved with
294 diamonds, approx. 3.22 cts,
2 princess-cut diamonds, approx. 0.815 ct and one emerald-cut diamond,
approx. 2.01 cts. Silvered gold dial paved
with 211 diamonds, approx. 0.63 ct.
Off-centred chapter ring in natural
mother-of-pearl with Breguet Arabic
numerals. Sapphire caseback.
GJE15BB20.8924M01
Rêve de Plume. Reine de Naples
gold paved with 940 diamonds,
approx. 19.91 cts. Self-winding
movement. Dial in silvered gold
and white natural mother-ofpearl. Sapphire caseback.
// 245
GJE15BB20.8924DJ1
Plumes. Reine de Naples
gold paved with 341 yellow
diamonds totalling approx. 10.87cts and 1,395 diamonds
weighing approx. 33.83 cts.
Dial in silvered gold and
white natural mother-of-pearl.
Sapphire caseback. A choice of
versions is available on request.
Chamfering on a lathe. This finish is performed by hand on a lathe equipped with various
grinding wheels, and requires considerable dexterity: since a substantial amount of matter
is removed, any mistakes would be hard to correct. The ultimate stage of this finish consists
of polishing the chamfered part with a rubber block that gives the chamfer its full radiance.
248 // T Y P E X X - T Y P E X X I
An uncompromising look.
The Type XX and Type XXI Breguet chronographs.
Designed in the 1950s for the French naval air arm, the Type XX returns to the Breguet collection in a civilian version fitted with
a self-winding movement. Its chronograph, however, retains the flyback function needed for flying search patterns. Its uncompromising
looks and strong construction have made the Type XX popular among those seeking an original and technical sports watch. Breguet
makes Type XX watches in two versions : the Aéronavale and the Transatlantique, with date indication. Its Type XXI design features
a flyback minute totaliser at centre and a 24-hour time display.
// 249
3800ST/92/9W6
Type XX Aéronavale flyback
chronograph in steel. Selfwinding movement, subdial
12-hour totalisers. Graduated
turning bezel. Luminous hands
and numerals. Screw-locked crown.
Diameter : 39 mm.
3800ST/92/SW9
Type XX Aéronavale flyback
chronograph in steel. Selfwinding movement, subdial
12-hour totalisers. Graduated turning
bezel. Luminous hands and
numerals. Screw-locked crown.
Diameter : 39 mm.
250 // T Y P E X X T R A N S A T L A N T I Q U E
3820ST/H2/9W6
Type XX Transatlantique
flyback chronograph in steel.
Self-winding movement with date
and subdial for the seconds.
30-minute and 12-hour
totalisers. Graduated turning
Diameter : 39 mm.
// 251
3820ST/H2/SW9
Type XX Transatlantique
flyback chronograph in steel.
30-minute and 12-hour
totalisers. Graduated turning
Diameter : 39 mm.
252 // T Y P E X X I
3810ST/92/9ZU
Type XXI flyback chronograph
in steel with elapsed-minute
register on a centre hand.
Day/night indicator and 12-hour
totaliser. Graduated turning
Diameter : 42 mm.
// 253
3810ST/92/SZ9
in steel with elapsed minute
register on a centre hand.
Diameter : 42 mm.
3810BR/92/9ZU
in 18-carat rose gold with elapsed
minute register on a centre hand.
Diameter : 42 mm.
254 // T Y P E X X I
3810TI/H2/TZ9
Type XXI flyback chronograph in
titanium with elapsed minute register
on a centre hand. Self-winding
movement with date and subdial
for the seconds. Day/night indicator
and 12-hour totaliser. Graduated
turning bezel. Luminous hands and
hour-markers. Screw-locked crown.
Diameter : 42 mm.
// 255
3810TI/H2/3ZU
Type XXI flyback chronograph in
titanium with elapsed minute register
on a centre hand. Self-winding
movement with date and subdial
for the seconds. Day/night indicator
and 12-hour totaliser. Graduated
turning bezel. Luminous hands and
hour-markers. Screw-locked crown.
Diameter : 42 mm.
258 // T Y P E X X I I
World First at 10Hz.
When the Type XXII redefines the notion of precision.
The Breguet Type XXII chronograph offers an aesthetic reinterpretation of the legendary Type XX, but above all embodies a
high-precision achievement. This creation is equipped with the first and only series-made mechanical chronograph movement with a
silicon escapement and balance spring boasting a frequency raised to 10 Hz, meaning 72,000 vibrations per hour. This extremely high
frequency endows the Type XXII with exceptional accuracy and rating efficiency, thus enabling it to mark off 1/20ths of a second. The
seconds hand performs a complete rotation in 30 seconds. This technical feat is made possible by the use of silicon, which serves to
lighten the weight of the mobile escapement components and to reduce the lubrication constraints linked to such high frequencies.
// 259
3880ST/H2/3XV
Type XXII flyback chronograph in steel
with seconds hands on a 30-second
basis at the centre. Half-minute
totaliser at the centre. High-frequency
escapement in silicon (10Hz ). Breguet
balance wheel in silicon with timing
screws and balance spring in silicon.
Self-winding movement with date and
small seconds on a 30-second basis.
24-hour indicator and second timezone indicator. Two-way rotating and
graduated bezel. Luminous hands
Diameter : 44mm.
260 // T Y P E X X I I
3880ST/H2/SX0
Type XXII flyback chronograph in steel
with seconds hands on a 30-second
basis at the centre. Half-minute
totaliser at the centre. High-frequency
escapement in silicon (10Hz ). Breguet
balance wheel in silicon with timing
screws and balance spring in silicon.
Self-winding movement with date and
small seconds on a 30-second basis.
24-hour indicator and second timezone indicator. Two-way rotating and
graduated bezel. Luminous hands
Diameter : 44 mm.
262 // A D I C T I O N A R Y O F P A S S I O N
Glossary.
• Breguet spring. The spiral hairspring on which the balance swings on itself. As it expands and contracts, its coils tend to cluster alternately
at either of its extremities. This constant shift in its centre of gravity negatively affects the rate of the balance. In 1795, A.-L. Breguet solved the
problem by upraising the spring’s last coil and reducing its curvature. Called the “Breguet overcoil”, it forced the spring to develop concentrically,
reducing the wear on the balance pivot, thus improving the movement’s precision. Breguet springs are still widely used in the finest wristwatches.
Breguet further contributed to balance spring performance with a temperature-compensating device featuring a bimetallic blade.
• Calibre. Since the early 18th century, the calibre of a movement has denoted the position and size of its different components, notably the
wheel train and the barrel. Today, the term is used more generally to refer to the shape of the movement, its origins or its maker.
• Chronograph. A watch that both measures and displays elapsed times and shows conventional time. The chronograph mechanism, driven
by the movement of the watch, controls a centre seconds hand that can be started and stopped to time an event. A subsidiary dial records the
elapsed minutes. Two pushpieces in the caseband serve to operate and return the chronograph to zero.
• Chronometer. A precision watch with a movement that has been rated by an observatory or official testing laboratory. The standard procedure
involves measuring the performance of the movement at different temperatures and in different positions for 15 consecutive days. Movements that
meet the standard are issued a chronometer certificate. In Switzerland, these are issued by the COSC, the official chronometer-testing organisation.
• Escapement. The device at the heart of virtually all time-keeping mechanisms. It provides the impulses to maintain the oscillations of the
balance wheel or pendulum, which in turn governs the rate at which the escapement lets the wheels and the hands of the watch revolve. The
main escapement used by A.- L. Breguet were, in turn . 1. the lever escapement, still universally used. The lever divides into two pallets
// 263
which lock and unlock the escape-wheel teeth. The action is governed by the balance engaging the other end of the lever. The escape teeth
sliding on the inclined pallets lift the lever to impulse the balance. 2. the ruby cylinder, which Breguet perfected. The teeth of the escape wheel
engage the inside and outside of a vertical hollow cylinder swinging on the balance-staff. The impulse is given by the inclined teeth of the escape
wheel on the lip of the ruby cylinder. A.- L. Breguet experimented with a various of escapements, developing his own designs – a natural-lift,
oil-free escapement in 1789, and a constant-force escapement in 1795.
• Flyback ( retour en vol ). A chronograph which restarts the instant it is brought back to zero. It is particularly useful for pilots. Actioning
the lower pushpiece only, they can time each successive leg of a search pattern, for example. Without this feature, they would have to use
two pushpieces to stop, return to zero and restart the chronograph while starting a new leg.
•Fusee-chain transmission. The fusee-chain transmission system improves rate regularity by guaranteeing constant torque to the movement whatever the degree of wind of its mainspring ( a mechanical watch mainspring’s torque generally varies in step with its degree of wind ).
The cone-shaped fusee contains differential gears that transmit continuous force to the movement. When its mainsprings are fully wound
( i.e. with the chain wound all the way to the top of the fusee ) and traction strength is high, the chain linking the barrel to the fusee coils
itself around the narrowest part of the fusee. On the contrary, when the mainsprings are partially slack and their torque is weaker, the chain
will coil around the broadest part of the fusee.
• Grand strike. Strikes hours and quarter-hours automatically ; on request, can also be made to repeat hours, quarter hours and minutes
by actioning a slide-bolt.
264 // A D I C T I O N A R Y O F P A S S I O N
• Minute repeater. A watch that strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on gongs. The repeater is activated by a slide in the caseband.
• Pare-chute ( shock absorber ). The old term for a device to prevent the delicate pivots of the balance wheel snapping under shock.
A.-L. Breguet’s solution was to hold the pivot point in a concave cap-jewel held on a blade spring. A violent blow caused the pivot point
to slide in the hollow of the jewel, displacing it on its spring. The reduced shock could then be taken on the thicker shoulder of the balance staff. Also
known as a sprung-balance suspension, A.-L. Breguet’s invention is the ancestor of modern shock proofing for watches, such as the Incabloc system.
• Pendule sympathique (clock and watch combination ). Conceived by A.- L. Breguet in 1795 and unveiled at France’s National Exhibition
of 1798, it consists of a pocket watch that sets and adjusts itself by a clock. The watch fits in a cradle on the clock. At 12 o’clock, the clock
releases a mechanism inside the watch which sets the watch to the same time. The watch determines the amount of error and adjusts its rate
faster or slower accordingly. A.-L. Breguet went on to develop even more ingenious versions that set and wound the watch hourly or daily. In the
latest development, dating from 1991, the clock sets and winds a wristwatch.
• Perpetual calendar. Showing the date, the day and the month, a watch or clock calendar is described as perpetual when it can automatically
adjust for short and long months as well as for leap years.
• Perpétuelle ( self-winding ) watches. The name given by A.- L. Breguet to watches that are automatically wound in the pocket while
the wearer is walking or riding. A sprung weight on a pivoting arm jumps up and down to wind the mainspring. The modern self-winding
wristwatch has a spinning weight.
• Power-reserve ( up-down ) indicator. An indication of the state of wind of the mainspring. A hand on the dial points to the number of hours
// 265
the movement will go before it runs down. A.- L. Breguet fitted his first perpétuelle self-winding watches from 1780 with this device, showing a
maximum of 60 hours’ power reserve on a sector on the dial. The power-reserve indicator is still used in certain types of watches.
• Repeating gong. For chiming watches, A.- L. Breguet replaced the bulky bells with resonant steel bars curved around the movement.
His development of the gong, dating from 1783, revolutionised the design of repeating watches, allowing them to be made much thinner.
• Split-seconds chronograph. A chronograph with two centre seconds hands. The extra hand runs concurrently with the main chronograph
hand but can be stopped independently then made to catch up with the running chronograph. The split-seconds mechanism thus records the
successive times of events that start together. The modern chronograph has its origins in the “observatory chronometer with twin seconds”
devised by A.- L. Breguet in 1820. It could record intermediary times or the duration of two concurrent events.
• Strike governor. A device ensuring a regular tempo for chiming watches.
• Tachometric scale. Dial divisions enabling speeds to be read in kilometres per hour or in another unit.
• Tact watch. An invention of A.-L. Breguet enabling the time to be felt on a watch. A hand on the back or front of the case can be moved until
it blocks. Its position – and thus the time – can be felt against hour-markers studding the case.
• Tourbillon. A.-L. Breguet was granted a patent for his best known invention on June 26, 1801 ( 7 Messidor, Year 9 of the French Republican
calendar ). The tourbillon compensates for differences in rate caused by a watch adopting different positions. The principle is to mount the
balance and escapement in a rotating carriage. They revolve about their common axis, going through all positions to average out the errors.
Tourbillon carriages or platforms usually rotate once a minute, but four-minute or six-minute tourbillons are also found.
Breguet Boutiques
Switzerland
USA
China
Hong Kong S.A.R
40, Rue du Rhône
1204 GENEVA
711 5th Avenue
NY 10022 NEW YORK
31, Bahnhofstrasse
8001 ZURICH
779 Madison Avenue
NY 10021 NEW YORK
Shanghai Swatch Art Center Co.Ltd
Peace Hotel
Bund 19 (n°23, East Nanjing Road)
200002 SHANGHAI
Shop G05 & Shop 205
1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Road
Tsimshatsui, Kowloon
HONG KONG
1, Bahnhofstrasse
3780 GSTAAD
France
6, Place Vendôme
75001 PARIS
26, La Croisette
06400 CANNES
Austria
Kohlmarkt 4
1010 VIENNA
United Kingdom
10A, New Bond Street
W1S 3SP LONDON
Russia
3, Red Square
109 012 MOSCOW
Lenin Avenue 25
620014 EKATERINBURG
280 North Rodeo Drive
CA 90210 BEVERLY HILLS
Bellagio Las Vegas
3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South
NV 89109 LAS VEGAS
Bal Harbour Shops
9700 Collins Avenue Space #145
FL 33154 BAL HARBOUR
United Arab Emirates
Mall of the Emirates / Level 1
Fashion Dome
DUBAI
Dubai Mall
DUBAI
Singapore
# B1-119 The Shoppes
at Marina Bay Sands
2 Bay Front Avenue
018972 SINGAPORE
Ningbo Heyi Avenue Shopping
Center, Shop 1048A, Zone C
No. 66, Heyi Road
315000 NINGBO
Beijing Scitech Plaza
22, Jianguomenwai Avenue
100004 BEIJING
Park Life
N°111-113 Beijing Park Life
N°2 Jian Guo Men Wai Street
Chao Yung District
100004 BEIJING
GFL Grand Hyatt Beijing
N°1 East Chang An Avenue
Dong Cheng District
100004 BEIJING
Macao
Shop 2011, Level 3
Grand Canal Shoppes
The Venetian Macao
Taiwan
Grand Formosa Regent Taipei
4F, No. 41, Chung Shan North Rd
Sec. 2
TAIPEI 104
Korea
Hyundai Main
2F, Hyundai Dept. Store
Apgujeong Main Branch
429 Apgujeong-dong
Gangnam-gu
135-724 SEOUL
Galleria Main
B1F, Galleria Luxury Hall
515 Apgujeong-dong
Gangnam-gu
135-902 SEOUL
Japan
Nicolas G. Hayek Center
7-9-18 Ginza
Chuo-ku
104-8188 TOKYO

The Breguet Collections 2011-2012

Transcription

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