Saint Malo > Cherbourg
Transcription
Saint Malo > Cherbourg
LE PETIT TOUR DE MANCHE ROADBOOK Saint-Malo > Cherbourg 10 days / 9 nights © Marc LEROUGE Oct. 2014 © Marc LEROUGE ETAPE 2 ROSCOFF BIKE INFORMATION > MORLAIX THE “ACCUEIL VÉLO” (CYCLISTS WELCOME) LABEL Accueil Vélo is a national brand providing reception and high-quality services to cyclists along cycle routes. The Accueil Vélo label covers accommodation, Tourist Offices, bike rental and repair companies and tourist sites. These are marked with the brand’s pictogram in this guide. Accredited services must be within 5 km of a cycle route and meet certain criteria: ÉDITO The different services and providers featured in this roadbook have been chosen with the prime objective of making the practical arrangements for your holiday as simple and efficient as possible. In no way does it provide a comprehensive list. As a priority, it aims to meet the expectations of a defined target clientele for European tour operators with the following profile: individuals and groups of individuals aged 41 to over 60, for a one-week holiday, looking mostly to discover heritage, history and nature, accommodation in 2 and 3-star hotels, half-board or bed and breakfast, average distance of 30 to 50 km per day, easy to moderate difficulty. The stages chosen comprise one route suggestion, several others are possible. © Marc LEROUGE - Provide reception facilities for cycle tourists: welcome treats, useful information and advice (tours, weather forecast, other Accueil Vélo services), a suitable breakfast. - Offer the following services: luggage transfer, laundry washing and drying, bike and accessory rental, bike washing facilities. - Offer the following facilities and equipment: secure bike storage area, repair kit. BIKE RENTAL Rental companies offering rentals and touring services (equipment, assistance) Locvelo - François Briane – Bayeux / www.locvelo.fr Abicyclette - Rennes / www.abicyclette.net Arz Location (small groups) - Theix / www.arz-locations.fr Les Vélos Bleus - Saint-Malo / www.velos-bleus.fr LOCAL BIKE TOUR COMPANIES Incoming tour operators offering turnkey holidays for this route Abicyclette - Rennes /+33 (0)2 30 96 18 22 / www.abicyclette.net Compagnie des sentiers maritimes - Rennes / +33 (0)2 99 78 83 70 / www.sentiersmaritimes.com France Randonnée - Rennes / +33 (0)2 99 67 42 21 / www.france-randonnee.fr Normandie Rando - Le Mesnil-Germain/ +33 (0)9 66 94 88 11 / www.cycletours.com Visit Ouest - Le Rheu / +33 (0)2 99 14 95 47 / www.visit-ouest.com MAPS AND GUIDES Two guidebooks for the Petit Tour de Manche are available in French and in English Baytree Press: www.cycle-guides.co.uk Itinérance à Vélo - « Tour de Manche »: www.cartovelo.com (to be published in spring 2014). BIKE TRANSPORT ON TRAIN There is no charge for carrying bikes on TER regional trains: bikes are suspended or placed in a dedicated space. The departure and arrival towns on the route have been chosen to allow return by TER to the tour departure point. Taking a bike with you on TGV high-speed trains is more complicated: you need to book in advance and pay a fee. Bikes must be carried in a protective cover, too. Restrictions also apply in peak periods. For additional information, consult www.velo.sncf.com Timetable and fares on websites www.ter-sncf.com/bretagne and www.voyages-sncf.com. 2 © Marc LEROUGE ETAPE 2 ROSCOFF OVERVIEW > OF THE TRIP MORLAIX The Petit Tour de Manche from Saint-Malo to Cherbourg is probably one of the most eclectic bike rides possible on a dedicated route. There’s a variety of diverse landscapes, as your bike-ride progresses, you’ll encounter a wealth of coastal and inland scenery: the jagged, rocky Breton coast, the gentle Mont Saint-Michel Bay, peaceful green Normandy farmland, the Cotentin marshes and unique Cherbourg, facing the sea. There’s even a variety of cultures, with the combination of two multi-faceted regions covered on a single route. There’s a diverse range of heritage, too, carrying you off into the packed history of a region that has long been strategic – from the Middle Ages through to the Second World War. This entrancing, all-round holiday is accessible to all without any major difficulties. It’s ideal for cyclists who want to discover seaward horizons and remarkable coastal sites, along with the rolling green countryside, hidden treasures and peaceful charms of the meadowlands, forests and rivers of inland Normandy. And to cap it all, there’s the tasty gastronomy of seafood and farmhouse fare to delight you. For more information about the entire Tour de Manche route, visit www.tourdemanche.com HIGHLIGHTS Saint-Malo walled town History, heritage, window-shopping and beaches at the foot of the city walls. A number of tours are available from the tourist information centre or as downloads, for you to explore as you please. Mont Saint-Michel Bay You can never tire of the vista of Mont Saint-Michel rising up above the bay. Every time you see this fine Gothic abbey atop its rocky isle, there’s a new surge of emotion. Vire Valley The Vire is a winding river, cuttings its way through the rocky flint that lies beneath the soil. A towpath follows the river bends practically all the way from Vire to Saint-Lô, providing an easy cycle route to make the most of the exquisite landscapes, alternating between gentle hills and spectacular gorges. Cotentin and Bessin Regional Natural park This marshland park extends over some 150,000 hectares. The rural area features preserved farmland, flood plains, moorland and coast, offering an amazing diversity of plant and animal wildlife for you to explore at your leisure as you travel along the lanes. Cherbourg harbour Cherbourg-Octeville boasts the largest artificial harbour in Europe – one of the greatest building exploits of the eighteenth century, extending over 1,500 hectares. The central dyke was begun in 1783 and completed in 1853. In 1860, on the orders of Napoleon III, three forts were built. MAJOR EVENTS MAY Garden month - Cherbourg: guided tours of the city’s parks and gardens. www.ville-cherbourg.fr JUNE Etonnants Voyageur - Saint-Malo: book and film festival. www.etonnants-voyageurs.com JULY Les Virevoltes Festival - Vire: street performances and music groups. www.lesvirevoltes.org Entre ciel et mer: living arts and plastic arts festival right in the centre of Mont Saint-Michel. www.festival.mtstmichel.free.fr AUGUST Jazz en baie: jazz festival in Mont Saint-Michel Bay. www.jazzenbaie.com SEPTEMBER Au son d’euh lo - Tessy-sur-Vire: music and cultural festival. www.ausondeuhlo.com OCTOBER Quai des Bulles - Saint-Malo: cartoon festival. www.quaidesbulles.com Les Bordées de Cancale: a major event for lovers of traditional sea shanties. www.lesbordees.fr Mange Ta Soupe festival - Carentan: culinary workshops, competitions and local fare. www.mangetasoupe.eu Route du Rock - Saint-Malo. www.laroutedurock.com USEFUL INFORMATION Electricity: 220V AC Emergency numbers - European: 112 / Ambulance: 15 / Police: 17 / Fire service: 18 Note that most shops in France close between 12 noon and 2pm and close for the day at 7pm. It’s also rare to find restaurants that serve meals before 7pm. 3 © Marc LEROUGE ETAPE 2 ROSCOFF > MAP MORLAIX LE PETIT TOUR DE MANCHE from Saint-Malo to Cherbourg © France Vélo Tourisme You can view the detailed map and all Gpx files for the route on the website www.tourdemanche.com 4 Vire Saint-Lô Carentan Bricquebec Cherbourg Day 6 Day 7 Day 8 Day 9 www.tourdemanche.com Day 10 Cherbourg Bricquebec Carentan Saint-Lô Vire (23 km) (28 km) (30 km) (4 km) (20 km) (8 km) (26 km) (5 km) (20 km) (35 km) (38 km) (45 km) (22 km) (7 km) OFF ROAD, TRAFFIC FREE + 250 + 248 + 239 + 669 + 290 + 379 + 50 + 211 D+ * Difficulty : Easy : virtually flat route without frequent dangerous section. Intermediate : route with hilly sections or frequent dangerous sections. Expert : route with difficult hilly sections or very frequent dangerous sections. 28 52 48 65 42 65 30 33 ROADS EASY INTER. EXPERT 55 % total overall ascent. Mortain Day 5 Mortain Mont Saint-Michel Le Vivier-sur-Mer Saint-Malo KM DIFFICULTY * ROSCOFF SUMMARY > TABLE MORLAIX Off road, traffic free D+ : Mont Saint-Michel Le Vivier-sur-Mer Day 3 Day 4 Saint-Malo Day 2 Day 1 STAGES TYPE OF ROUTE ETAPE 2 Total distance Difficulty 363 km Easy Intermediate You can view the detailed map and all Gpx files for the route on the website 5 STAGE 1 © Pierre TORSET ETAPE 2 ROSCOFF DEPARTURE: > SAINT-MALO MORLAIX HIGHLIGHTS Aleth walled city and Solidor tower: listed historic monuments. Petit Bé fort and Fort National: accessible on foot at low tide, are in an outstanding location with unforgettable 360-degree views. www.petit-be.com Travel back through time at the City History Museum. www.ville-saint-malo.fr Saint-Malo is the ideal arrival port for cyclists. With its great reputation, outstanding character and landscapes, diversity of interest points, easy access and appropriate facilities, it extends inland the spirit of freedom it has always upheld on the seven seas. The ramparts of this stone vessel on the mouth of the Rance rise proudly up above the beaches and port. Saint-Malo was founded on the Alet peninsula in the first century BC. In the twelfth century, the Gallo-Roman port made way for a city built on an island. In the sixteenth century, Jacques Cartier left to explore Canada, and fishing fleets sailed off to Newfoundland. Shipowners worked the trade routes and made the city wealthy. They became prosperous within the walls, extended by the disciples of Vauban. In the eighteenth century, the privateers Duguay-Trouin and Surcouf further reinforced the prestige of Saint-Malo. GETTING THERE Car: Paris/Saint-Malo: 450 km. Storm the vessel! Come aboard the Etoile du Roy and the Demeure de Corsaire. www.etoile-du-roy.com www.demeure-de-corsaire.com Train: Paris/Saint-Malo: direct TGV high-speed train in 3 hours or TGV to Rennes with connecting 1-hour TER journey to Saint-Malo. Rennes/Saint-Malo: direct TER in 1 hour. Nantes/Saint-Malo: direct TER in 2 hours or via Rennes in 2 hours 30 minutes. Air: Paris, Rennes or Nantes airport, then train to Saint-Malo. The Grand Aquarium de Saint-Malo. www.aquarium-st-malo.com Ferry: Crossings from Poole and Weymouth on Condor Ferries and Portsmouth on Condor Ferries and Brittany Ferries. Car parks: nearby intra-muros : 1,800 places, free from November to March. STAGING POINT: SAINT-MALO Accommodation 3* hotel - Escale Océania Chaussée du sillon Saint-Malo +33 (0)2 99 40 36 36 www.oceaniahotels.com 3* hôtel and restaurant Ambassadeur Chaussée du sillon Saint-Malo +33 (0)2 99 40 26 26 www.hotel-ambassadeurssaintmalo.com 2* hotel - La Rance Quai Sébastopol - Quartier Saint Servan/Solidor Saint-Malo +33 (0)2 99 81 78 63 www.larancehotel.com 2* hotel - Brit Hôtel Le Surcouf Avenue du Révérend Père Umbricht – Saint-Malo +33 (0)2 99 56 30 19 www.surcoufhotel.com Markets Restaurants L’Âtre (fish/seafood) Esplanade du Commandant Menguy - Quartier SaintServan /Solidor – Saint-Malo +33 (0)2 99 81 68 39 www.restaurant-latre.com La Brigantine (crêperie) Rue de Dinan – Saint-Malo +33 (0)2 99 56 82 82 www.labrigantine.fr in the Walled Town and Saint-Servan (Place Bouvet) On Tuesdays and Fridays. L’Entre Deux Verres (regional and eclectic cuisine) Le Bulot (cuisine with fresh Rue Grands Degrés fish and market produce) Saint-Malo Quai Sébastopole - Quartier Saint- +33 (0)2 99 40 18 91 Servan / Solidor - Saint-Malo www.restaurant-lentredeu+33 (0)2 99 81 07 11 xverres.com www.lebulot.com MORE INFORMATION Saint-Malo Tourist Board: +33 (0)8 25 13 52 00 / www.saint-malotourisme.com 6 STAGE 2 © Simon BOURCIER ETAPE 2 SAINT-MALO LE VIVIER-SUR-MER ROSCOFF 33>km 95% roads MORLAIX Difficulty: easy to expert D+ 211 metres HIGHLIGHTS Cancale: the prime gourmet stoppingplace on your route. Maison de la Baie Visitor centre – Le Vivier-sur-Mer: explore the natural and human heritage of Mont SaintMichel Bay. www.maison-baie.com Leave the Corsaire city heading north-east towards Cancale. As you ride along the coast, you’ll see the carved rocks at Rothéneuf: a strange world that is the unique, amazing work of a hermit monk in the late nineteenth century. The route then leaves the busy coastal road, taking a quieter alternative through the countryside via the village of Saint-Coulomb. After Cancale - an essential gourmet stopover during your holiday – the coast changes in aspect as Mont Saint-Michel Bay appears, forming the backdrop for your journey. On clear days, the Mont can already be seen on the horizon – and you’ll continue heading towards it for the next two days! You’ll leave behind the more difficult hilly route for a gentle, flat coast path. The huge beaches are the ideal place for gourmet tasting featuring oysters and shellfish. LOGISTICS - LUGGAGE TRANSFER Action Taxi – Saint-Malo +33 (0)2 99 82 55 64 Taxi Stéphane Lezenes – Saint-Malo Allo taxis Malouins – Saint-Malo +33 (0)6 99 65 35 35 +33 (0)2 99 81 30 30 Lemaitre Christophe – Saint-Malo +33 (0)2 23 18 11 81 ON YOUR WAY Halfway along the route, Cancale is clearly the ideal place to stop for lunch. There are lots of food shops in the town centre, a market on Sundays and an oyster market at the sea port (daily!) where you can buy food for a picnic. We can also heartily recommend a meal in one of the restaurants in this regional gourmet capital, with oysters, shrimps, whelks, cockles, fish, abalones – or crepe pancakes with a difference. Mechanics Restaurants A contre courant (seafood cuisine) Place du calvaire – Cancale +33 (0)2 99 89 61 61 www.acontrecourant.net L’ormeau (local seasonal fare) Quai Thomas – Cancale +33 (0)2 99 89 60 16 www.restaurant-ormeau-cancale.fr Crêperie Breizh Café Quai Thomas – Cancale +33 (0)2 99 89 56 46 www.breizhcafe.com Les 2 roues de Cancale – Cancale +33 (0)2 99 89 80 16 STAGING POINT: LE VIVIER-SUR-MER Le Vivier-sur-Mer is one of the principal mussel-farming centres in Mont Saint-Michel Bay. It’s the ideal place to stop and explore the natural and human heritage of the bay. The maison de la Baie visitor centre organises themed excursions to visit the mussel farms and marshes, or go birdwatching. Market: summer market in Cherrueix, Thursdays 5pm to 8pm in the village centre. Accommodation 3* hotel and restaurant Beau Rivage Rue de la mairie - Le Vivier-sur-Mer +33 (0)2 99 48 90 65 www.logis-beaurivage.com Restaurants 2* hotel and restaurant Le Bretagne Rond point du centre – Le Vivier-sur-Mer +33 (0)2 99 80 82 87 www.hotel-restaurant-le-bretagne.com Hotel and restaurant - de la Baie Rue du bord de mer – Saint-Benoitdes-Ondes (6 km du Vivier-sur-Mer) +33 (0)2 99 58 77 59 www.hoteldelabaie.eu The accommodations suggested also have good restaurants, so high-quality halfboard is available. MORE INFORMATION Cancale Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 99 89 63 72 / www.cancale-tourisme.fr Saint-Coulomb Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 99 89 00 21 / www.saintcoulomb.com Pays de Dol Tourist Board - Dol-de-Bretagne / +33 (0)2 99 48 15 37 / www.pays-de-dol.com 7 STAGE 3 © Pierre TORSET LE VIVIER-SUR-MER ETAPE 2 LE MONT ROSCOFF SAINT-MICHEL > 31 km MORLAIX 20% off road, traffic free Difficulty: easy D+ 50 metres HIGHLIGHTS Local fare centre - Cherrueix. www.lamaisonduterroir.fr Polder visitor centre - Roz-sur-Couesnon www.cc-baie-mont-st-michel.fr Le Mont Saint-Michel (spur route) Tour of Mont Saint-Michel abbey. www.mont-saint-michel.monuments-nationaux.fr A very scenic stage, with the highlight of the day being the arrival at Mont SaintMichel, before going on to explore this outstanding site. The short distance and lack of any real difficulties along the route mean you should have plenty of time to visit the village and abbey in the afternoon. Today’s route continues along the broad sandy bay, home to the highest tides in continental Europe. The exceptional tidal range is a boon for land-sailing and speedsailing enthusiasts. Along the way, Cherrueix has an international reputation among lovers of these sports. From Saint-Benoit-des-Ondes, ride along the greenway of the dike Sainte-Anne to reach the Couesnon River. For the last few kilometres, ride along the banks of the river to reach the Mont Saint-Michel. Guided walk across the sands around Mont Saint-Michel. www.pays-baie-mont-saint-michel.fr LOGISTICS - LUGGAGE TRANSFER Voyages Amard – Pontorson +33 (0)2 33 48 24 09 Taxi Saint-Benoit – Hirel +33 (0)2 99 80 82 53 ON YOUR WAY The goal today is to reach Mont Saint-Michel for lunch. If you choose to picnic, it’s best to buy your food from the shops at Vivier-sur-Mer before leaving, or at Cherrueix on the way. The many restaurants at Mont Saint-Michel also offer you the possibility of a unique gourmet experience in this outstanding setting. Mechanics Restaurants Crêperie La Sirène Grande Rue – Mont Saint-Michel +33 (0)2 33 60 08 60 Crêperie La cloche Grande Rue – Mont Saint-Michel +33 (0)2 33 60 15 65 Restaurant la Ferme Saint-Michel (local gastronomy) La caserne – Mont Saint-Michel +33 (0)2 33 58 46 79 Cycles Romé – Dol-de-Bretagne +33 (0)2 99 80 96 26 STAGING POINT: LE MONT SAINT-MICHEL Aptly named the « Wonder of the West », Mont Saint-Michel is surrounded by a magnificent bay. The sight is breath-taking. Mont SaintMichel Bay is a UNESCO world cultural and natural heritage site. In 708AD, the Bishop of Avranches is said to have founded a sanctuary on mont Tombe, after the archangel Michael appeared there on three successive occasions. The church was consecrated in 709AD, and has attracted pilgrims and other inquisitive visitors from all over the world ever since. Mont Saint-Michel has the unique feature of being built on a rocky islet. It is home to many architectural masterpieces including the abbey itself, which is well worth a visit. Market: on Thursday in Pontorson, accessible via a traffic free spur route (10 km from Mont Saint-Michel). Accommodation 3* hotel and restaurant - Le Relais du Roy Route du Mont Saint-Michel Le Mont Saint-Michel +33 (0)2 33 60 14 25 www.le-relais-du-roy.com 2* hotel - Formule verte Route du Mont Saint-Michel Le Mont Saint-Michel +33 (0)2 33 60 14 13 www.le-mont-saint-michel.com 2* hotel - Vert Route du Mont Saint-Michel Le Mont Saint-Michel +33 (0)2 33 60 09 33 www.le-mont-saint-michel.com Hotel and restaurant - les 4 Salines Rue des 4 salines Roz-sur-Couesnon (12 km from Mont) +33 (0)2 99 80 23 80 www.hotel-les-4-salines.com MORE INFORMATION Mont Saint-Michel Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 60 14 30 / www.ot-montsaintmichel.com Pays de Dol area Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 99 48 15 37 / www.pays-de-dol.com 8 STAGE 4 © Pierre TORSET LE MONT2 ETAPE SAINT-MICHEL ROSCOFF MORTAIN > 65 km MORLAIX 70% off road, traffic free Difficulty: easy to intermediate D+ 379 metres HIGHLIGHTS The treasures of Avranches (spur route): medieval castle keep, NotreDame-des-Champs Church, SaintGervais basilica and the plant gardens offering unique views of Mont SaintMichel. Waterfalls walk - Mortain (route map available free of charge from the Tourist Board). Today’s route leaves Mont Saint-Michel and the coast to take narrow lanes and greenways through inland Normandy. After about twenty kilometres featuring the last good views of Mont Saint-Michel, the route follows an easy greenway from the banks of the Sélune towards to Mortain. There are some beautiful places to stop along the way. One is Ducey, a charming, flower-decked port where scows used to land, borne up by the tide. Due to its history as a strategic trading post, the town has retained the imposing Montgommery family chateau and old port – both dating back to the twelfth century. Saint-Hilaire-du-Harcouët, a fortified settlement at the borders of Brittany, Cotentin and the Loire region, was founded and fortified by one of William the Conqueror’s comrades-in-arms.At the end of the journey Mortain rises up on the hillside at the heart of the green Normandy farmland. The enchanting Cance waterfalls and their steep surrounding hills are typical of the scenery, revealing the wilder side of Armorican Normandy. The Montgommery castle - Ducey. LOGISTICS - LUGGAGE TRANSFER Voyages Amard – Pontorson +33 (0)2 33 48 24 09 Taxi Saint-Benoit – Hirel +33 (0)2 99 80 82 53 ON YOUR WAY Ducey (25 km from the start) and Saint-Hilaire-du-Harcouët (45 km) are great places to explore – and also good places to go food shopping. There’s a market in Ducey on Tuesday mornings on the main street, and on Wednesday mornings in Saint-Hilaire-du-Harcouët town centre. There are a few good restaurants along the way if you want to stop for a sit-down meal, for instance in Ducey. STAGING POINT: MORTAIN Mortain lies at the border of the Mont Saint-Michel Bay area and the Normandy-Maine Regional Natural Park. It boasts two remarkable natural beauty spots – pleasant places to explore after this long section of over 60 km. The waters of the Grande Cascade, the most beautiful waterfall in western France, gather to form a 25-metre cascade in a majestic, rocky setting. The water in the Petite Cascade, a natural, secluded spot in the town centre, falls onto the steps of a huge natural staircase cut into the rock. This site, laden with a history and memories, will fire your imagination. Market : on Saturday mornings in the town centre. Restaurant Taxi Babeth – Mortain +33 (0)2 33 79 00 01 Mechanics Cap Loisirs Location – Parigny l’Auberge de la Sélune Rue Saint-Germain – Ducey +33 (0)2 33 49 15 17 +33 (0)2 33 48 53 62 Bouticycle Michel prieur - Le Neuf www.selune.com +33 (0)2 33 59 45 72 Accommodation 3* hotel and restaurant de la Poste Place des arcades – Mortain +33 (0)2 33 59 00 05 www.hoteldelaposte.fr Restaurants Les Cascades (regional and traditional cuisine) 16 Rue du Bassin - Mortain +33 (0)2 33 79 05 79 Hotel and restaurant Auberge les Closeaux Les Closeaux – Romagny +33 (0)2 33 61 41 45 chezphil.over-blog.fr MORE INFORMATION Avranches Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 58 00 22 / www.ville-avranches.fr Ducey Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 60 21 53 / www.ducey-tourisme.com Saint-Hilaire-du-Harcouët Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 79 38 88 / www.st-hilaire.fr Mortain Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 59 19 74 / www.mortain-tourisme.fr 9 STAGE 5 © Simon BOURCIER ETAPE MORTAIN2 Mont VIRE Saint ROSCOFF Michel 42>km > free 90%MORLAIX off road, traffic Mortain Difficulty: easy D+ 290 metres HIGHLIGHTS Dathée lake (a few kilometres off the route before you arrive in Vire): 10-hectare bird reserve managed by the Normandy Ornithological Group, with 86 bird species (ducks, coots, grebes, snipes and more) to be observed. Today’s route continues along the pleasant, easy-to-ride greenway, entering the Bocage Normand farmland towards Vire, your next stopover. Situated halfway between Caen and Mont Saint-Michel in south-western Calvados, this secluded region features a succession of gentle green hills and pastureland that will enchant you with its bucolic charm. For nature-lovers, the attraction of the Bocage Normand is first and foremost the variety of landscapes, alternating between valleys lined with country hedges and remarkable forests. For gourmets, the Bocage Normand offers an opportunity to try out the very best in Normandy gastronomy. Your stopover in Vire will give you the chance to make the very most of it! LOGISTICS - LUGGAGE TRANSFER Clock gate - Vire: the main entrance to the city, was built in the thirteenth century. Ateliers Guy Degrenne - Vire: offers a guided tour of a cutlery manufacturing workshop. Normandy gastronomy: the Manche département has an almost infinite range of fine, quality local fare. Taxi babeth – Mortain / +33 (0)2 33 79 00 01 / +33 (0)6 85 42 73 70 ON YOUR WAY If you want to picnic in the countryside or on the banks of Dathée lake (a few kilometres off the route), do your shopping before leaving Mortain or halfway along the route in Sourdeval (market on Tuesday mornings and shops). There are a number of restaurants in the village centre in Sourdeval for a quick, inexpensive lunch stop. Mechanics Bouticycle Michel Prieur Mortain - Le Neuf +33 (0)2 33 59 45 72 Cycles du Bocage Vaudry / Vire +33 (0)2 31 67 99 04 STAGING POINT: VIRE Situated on the right bank of the river of the same name, Vire was no doubt first fortified during the reign of Charlemagne. These fortifications were replaced in the twelfth century by imposing stone ramparts, turning the town into one of the strongholds that defended the duchy against Brittany. There are a few remains from the Middle Ages, in particular the clock gate, which is well worth a visit. Until the end of the fourteenth century, the city made the most of natural energy from the river: mills, furriers, tanners, paperworks, textiles and cloth manufacturing were burgeoning industries. The town is a pleasant stopover on the Petit Tour de Manche, combining history with culinary pleasures – including Vire andouille sausage, the local speciality. Market: on Friday mornings (featuring many local farmers’ stalls). Accommodation 3* hotel and restaurant Logis Hôtel de France Rue d’Aignaux – Vire +33 (0)2 31 68 00 35 www.hoteldefrancevire.com 3*hôtel - Saint Pierre Avenue du Général Leclerc Vire +33 (0)2 31 68 05 82 www.hotelsaintpierrevire.fr Restaurants Hôtel Moderne Place de la gare Vire +33 (0)2 31 68 01 39 www.hotel-moderne-vire.fr Au vrai Normand (regional cuisine) Rue Armand Gasté – Vire +33 (0)2 31 67 90 99 www.auvrainormand.com Le Manoir de la Pommeraie (regional cuisine) Route de Flers – Vire +33 (0)2 31 68 07 71 www.restaurant-pommeraie-vire.co MORE INFORMATION Mortainais Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 79 35 61 / www.mortain-tourisme.fr Bocage Normand Tourist Board – Vire / +33 (0)2 31 77 16 14 / www.bocage-normand.com 10 STAGE 6 © A LAMOUREUX ETAPE VIRE 2 SAINT-LÔ ROSCOFF 65>km 55%MORLAIX off road, traffic free Difficulty: easy to intermediate D+ 669 metres HIGHLIGHTS Souleuvre Viaduct: the route passes close to this old railway viaduct, which stands on five granite pillars. One of the lesser-known works of Gustave Eiffel, it is now a popular place for bungee jumping. The Centre de Création Contemporaine Usine Utopik - Tessysur-Vire: is a meeting and discussion venue that supports and promotes plastic arts and contemporary writing. www.usine-utopik.com Les Roches de Ham - after Tessysur-Vire: watch out for the signposts to this rocky outcrop, which stands some one hundred metres high. It offers breath-taking views of the surrounding countryside. After a few kilometres of greenway, today begins with a ride along narrow country lanes as you continue your journey through the bocage Normand and Vire valley towards La Ferrière-Harang and then Pont-Farcy. Here the climb is more pronounced, but the Normandy hills provide some excellent viewpoints that are well worth the effort. Leaving Pont-Farcy you rejoin the flat greenway, leading through a number of country villages and charming hamlets, including the medieval town of Tessy-sur-Vire. After Condé-sur–Vire, the trail crosses the most picturesque part of the valley to Saint-Lô, surrounded by peaceful meadows, sheep, horses and hedges full of wild flowers. LOGISTICS - LUGGAGE TRANSFER Taxi Ambulances du Centre – Vire +33 (0)2 31 68 02 44 Taxis du Bocage – Vire +33 (0)2 31 68 01 97 ON YOUR WAY Today’s route features a number of places to stop along the way to buy food, particularly Pont-Farcy (after 33 km), Tessy-sur-Vire (after 40 km) and Condé-sur-Vire (after 52 km). There is also a market in Condé every Wednesday morning. In addition, there are some good restaurants in these towns, where you can stop for lunch. National Stud Farm - Saint-lô. www.haras-nationaux.fr Restaurants Le Coq Hardi (traditional cuisine using local fare) Le Bourg - Pont-Farcy +33 (0)2 31 68 86 03 STAGING POINT: SAINT-LÔ Saint-Lô is situated on the river Vire. It was destroyed by bombing in 1944 and is now a new town in which concrete successfully blends in with older remains such as the city walls, which date back to the Middle Ages. Saint-Lô has been dubbed the « Horse capital » thanks to the prestige of its national stud farm and sporting events including the « Normandie Horse Show ». Saint-Lô also boasts a fully-fledged cultural scene with a library, Fine Arts museum, theatre and cinema. Offering all the services touring cyclists may need, Saint-Lô is a pleasant stopover on your route. NB: Saint-Lô has an SNCF railway station with regional train services to Saint-Malo via Pontorson. It can also serve as an arrival-point instead of Cherbourg for those seeking a shorter stay. Market: on Tuesday, rue Alsace Lorraine. On Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, place du Général de Gaulle. Mechanics Le Crêp’uscule (crêperie) Rue des Catelleries Condé-sur-Vire +33 (0)2 33 56 47 93 Accommodation Cycles Bocage Vaudry / Vire +33 (0)2 31 67 99 04 Restaurants 3* hotel Best Hotel Boulevard de Strasbourg – Saint-Lô +33 (0)2 33 57 57 57 www.besthotel.fr Le Pêché Mignon (normandy cuisine) Rue Marechal Juin - Saint-Lô +33 (0)2 33 72 23 77 2* hotel and restaurant - Brithotel Lunotel Rue de la Liberté - Saint-Lô +33 (0)2 33 56 56 56 hotel-saint-lo.brithotel.fr Le Goût Sauvage (natural food and wine) Rue de Villedieu – Saint-Lô +33 (0)2 33 72 24 76 Hotel and restaurant - La Crémaillère L’Escale (buffet and grills) Rue de la Chancellerie - Saint-Lô Promenade des Alluvions - Saint-Lô +33 (0)2 33 57 14 68 +33 (0)2 33 05 51 51 www.lacremaillere-stlo.com MORE INFORMATION Bocage Normand Tourist Board – Vire / +33 (0)2 31 77 16 14 / www.bocage-normand.com Canton de Torigni-Sur-Vire Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 77 42 22 / www.ot-torigni.fr Tessy-sur-Vire tourist information point / +33 (0)2 33 56 23 70 /www.tessy-sur-vire.com Saint-Lô tourist region / +33 (0)2 33 72 56 73 / www.tourisme-pays-saintlo.com 11 STAGE 7 © Marc LEROUGE ETAPE SAINT-LÔ2 CARENTAN ROSCOFF 48>km 40%MORLAIX off road, traffic free Difficulté: easy D+ 239 metres HIGHLIGHTS Claies de Vire Observatory La Meauffe: a centre for the study of migrating fish (shads, sea trout, Atlantic salmon, etc.). www.aappma-saint-lo.com Leaving Saint-Lô, the route follows the very pleasant winding towpath along the Vire canal to Saint-Fromond. You then switch to narrow country lanes on towards Saint-Jean-de-Daye. Here, we leave the Bocage Normand and its stud farms to enter the Cotentin and Bessin marshland regional natural Park. The network of channels and canals is typical of the area, where the seasonal water levels have a major influence. Narrow country lanes lead through this marshland with no major difficulty. Port des Planques and the Maison des Ormes lock house Montmartin-en-Graignes: embody the marshland waterways heritage. LOGISTICS - LUGGAGE TRANSFER Flambard et fils taxi - Saint-Lô +33 (0)6 07 97 71 45 Taxi du pays Saint Lois - Saint-Lô +33 (0)2 33 57 57 29 ON YOUR WAY After cycling along the towpath where there are no real possibilities for buying food, Saint-Jean-de-Daye (past the half-way point) is the obvious lunch stop on your route today, with all the food shops you’re likely to need, the market in the town centre every Friday and a couple of restaurant options. Mechanics Restaurants Auberge chez Hubert (traditional) Rue Saint-Jean - Saint-Jean-de-Daye +33 (0)2 33 05 64 54 Accro vélo – Saint-Lô +33 (0)2 33 75 67 30 Cycles 14 - Saint-Lô +33 (0)2 33 57 54 91 Au p’tit trot (traditional) Rue de la Libération - Saint-Jean-de-Daye +33 (0)2 33 55 48 00 STAGING POINT: CARENTAN Carentan, the « Capital of the Marshlands », boasts a wealth of natural heritage. These marshes are a nature reserve dedicated to the management and conservation of biodiversity. The town also has a number of old churches. During your stopover, you’ll be able to explore the medieval arcades, Notre-Dame Romanesque church, the Gothic-style church, the seventeenth-century town hall and the wash house and fountains. Carentan is linked to Veys Bay by a sea channel and has a marina. In the Middle Ages, a harbour was built close to the city walls at “quay-au-vin”, in the bed of the river Gouffres, which flowed into the Taute. A goods trade (salted meats, cereals, poultry, wine, salt and rush bundles to fuel the manor ovens) was operated by the scows that sailed the marshland waterways. Market: on Monday, place Valnoble. Restaurants Accommodation Kyriad 3* hotel Rue du mesnil – Saint-hilaire Petitville – Carentan +33 (0)2 33 71 92 88 www.hotelcarentan.com 2* hotel - Vauban Rue Sebline – Carentan +33 (0)2 33 71 00 20 Logis Auberge Normande hotel Boulevard de Verdun – Carentan +33 (0)2 33 42 28 28 www.aubergenormande.com Le Pere Alta (traditional cuisine / foie gras) Quai Caligny – Carentan +33 (0)2 33 71 26 54 MORE INFORMATION Marais du Cotentin et du Bessin Regional Natural Park – Saint-Côme-du-Mont / +33 (0)2 33 71 65 30 / www.parc-cotentin-bessin.fr Marais de Carentan Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 71 23 50 / www.ot-carentan.fr 12 STAGE 8 © Marc LEROUGE ETAPE 2 CARENTAN BRICQUEBEC ROSCOFF 52>km 100%MORLAIX off road, traffic free Difficulté: easy D+ 248 metres HIGHLIGHTS A spur route starting at Carentan leads to the Normandy landing beaches (Arromanches and Port en Bessin): along a dedicated trail. The « Landing beaches – Mont Saint-Michel » cycle route invites you to explore historic and cultural heritage as you cycle along greenways and quiet country lanes. www.bocage-normand.com The Mont Castre site - Lithaire: allows visitors to find out all about the region’s history through the ruins of old Lithaire and its neolithic site. The « au grès du temps » gardens - Lithaire: nestle in the Cotentin marshland, where the temperate climate is ideal for the growth of a host of different plants. Covering some 4,000 m², the site is home to an unusual blend of art, glass and nature. www.augresdutemps.jimdo.com A pleasant stage, leaving Carentan towards the small picturesque village of Bricquebec. All the ingredients for a fine day of exploration are there: a route along a greenway – a safe, disused railway line with no difficulties, allowing you to fully enjoy the natural environment, featuring lush pastoral scenes, hedge-lined fields, forests, far-stretching marshlands and outstanding animal wildlife (keep your binoculars to hand!). To complete the picture, there is some great heritage to explore in the villages along the route, such as the castle keep at La Haye-du-Puits and the chateaus at Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte and Bricquebec. LOGISTICS - LUGGAGE TRANSFER Allo Taxi – Carentan +33 (0)2 33 42 21 44 Achard Cérald – Carentan +33 (0)2 33 71 50 50 ON YOUR WAY There are lots of places to picnic in the countryside along the way. One good option is to do your shopping in Carentan before leaving. If you want to combine your lunch break with site-seeing, La Haye-du-Puits, at the half-way point (22 km) and Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte somewhat further on (40 km) are two possible stopping places during the day’s ride. You’ll find lots of food shops, town centre markets on Wednesdays in La Haye-du-Puits and Saturdays in Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte, and a good range of restaurants. Restaurants Restaurant Pom’cannelle Rue du Général Leclerc La Haye-du-Puits +33 (0)2 33 46 45 57 www.restaurantpomcannelle.fr Auberge du Vieux Château Avenue Division Leclerc Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte +33 (0)2 33 41 60 15 www.auberge-vieux-chateau.fr Mechanics Saint Louis – Carentan +33 (0)2 33 42 30 28 Sport 50 – Carentan +33 (0)2 33 71 19 77 STAGING POINT: BRICQUEBEC This town is thought to date back to the time of the Vikings. The current town lies on a shale plateau overlooking a narrow valley with a stream that the Vikings called the Brekkubekk (slope beck). At that time this place was a major crossroads. Bricquebec is a ‘Ville d’Art et d’Histoire’, with very fine heritage to be explored during your stopover. The castle, the finest example of Bricquebec heritage, dates back to the twelfth century. It was the home of the Bricquebec lords from the Viking era right up until the French Revolution. Other places to visit include the old Notre-Dame church and La Trappe abbey. Market: on Monday in the town centre. Accommodation 3* hotel and restaurant Hostellerie du château Cours du château – Bricquebec +33 (0)2 33 52 24 49 www.lhostellerie-bricquebec.com 2* hotel and restaurant Auberge du Vieux Château Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte (13 km avant Bricquebec) +33 (0)2 33 41 60 15 www.auberge-vieux-chateau.fr Hotel and restaurant Vallée de la Douve L’étang Bernard (6 km de Bricquebec) +33 (0)2 33 94 52 70 www.hotelvalleedeladouve.com Restaurants For your dinner, the three accommodation options selected have good restaurants that we recommend. The other few possible alternatives in Bricquebec will not be as practical from a logistics point of view. MORE INFORMATION La Haye-du-Puits Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 46 01 42 / www.ot-lahayedupuits.com Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 21 50 44 / www.ville-saint-sauveur-le-vicomte.fr Bricquebec Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 52 21 65 / www.officedutourisme-bricquebec.com 13 STAGE 9 © Marc LEROUGE ETAPE 2 BRICQUEBEC CHERBOURG ROSCOFF 28>km 15%MORLAIX off road, traffic free Difficulty: easy D+ 250 metres HIGHLIGHTS Boat trips and water sports Cherbourg harbour. www.cherbourgtourisme.com For the final stage of your route, you’ll leave the greenway and finish your journey to Cherbourg on quiet roads without any particular difficulty. You pass through the quaint village of Brix and pedal from farm to hamlet, along quiet roads, surrounded by high hedgerows enclosing meadows, fields and orchards. Just a little further and you’ll ride into Cherbourg, whose many different facets are well worth exploring. The cité de la mer: an attraction dedicated to the deep sea world, including the Redoutable, the largest submarine open to visits in the world. www.citedelamer.com Close to Cherbourg: there’s Ravalet chateau and gardens in Tourlaville, a superb blue shale Renaissance chateau with landscaped gardens that boast the « Jardin Remarquable » label, and a round greenhouse listed as a historic monument. www.ville-cherbourg.fr LOGISTICS - LUGGAGE TRANSFER Cherbourg-Octeville Taxi – Cherbourg +33 (0)2 33 53 36 38 Taxi Seizeur – Cherbourg +33 (0)2 33 22 24 23 ON YOUR WAY Today you have two alternatives. The first is to do the entire Mechanics route in the morning and arrive at Cherbourg in time for lunch, then make the most of the afternoon to visit the many different La passion du 2 roues - Brix sites available in the city. The short distance without any real +33 (0)2 33 52 31 06 difficulties on the route makes this a perfectly feasible option. The alternative is to buy food before leaving Bricquebec or in Brix, after about ten kilometres, and have a last picnic in the countryside before entering Cherbourg during the afternoon. STAGING POINT: CHERBOURG Cherbourg port is located within the largest artificial harbour in Europe, an amazing seventeenth and eighteenth-century architectural achievement spanning 1,500 hectares. There are four ports arranged within Cherbourg’s three breakwaters: a marina, a commercial port, a fishing port and a naval port. With everything from La Cité de la Mer to Sainte-Trinité basilica and the Liberation museum, there’s a very wide range of walks and places to visit. You can also see the Italian-style theatre, churches, museums – as well as the outstanding botanical, seafaring, scientific and adventure heritage. Caressed by the Gulf Stream, Cherbourg has an ocean climate. The tradition dates back to the sailors who brought back unknown, exotic plant species from distant lands. This continued in the early twentieth century with Emmanuel Liais and Dr Favier, who vied with each other in their ambition, building two parks which are renowned among botanists the world over. Market: there’s a wide range of markets at Cherbourg. The main ones are on Thursdays and Saturdays, place Centrale and on Sundays, avenue de Normandie. Hébergements 2* hotel Napoléon Place de la République Cherbourg +33 (0)2 33 93 32 32 www.napoleon-cherbourg.com 2* hotel Le Louvre Rue de la Paix - Cherbourg +33 (0)2 33 53 02 28 www.hotel-le-louvre-cherbourg.com 2* hotel de la Gare Rue Jean Jaurès Cherbourg +33 (0)2 33 43 06 81 Hotel Moderna Rue de la Marine - Cherbourg +33 (0)2 33 43 05 30 www.hotel-moderna.com Restaurants Café de Paris (seafood cuisine) Quai de Caligny - Cherbourg +33 (0)2 33 43 12 36 www.restaurantcafedeparis.com Le Vauban (local cuisine) Quai de Caligny - Cherbourg +33 (0)2 33 43 10 11 www.levauban-cherbourg.fr L’imprévu (gastronomy) Grande Rue - Cherbourg +33 (0)2 33 04 53 90 www.restaurantlimprevu.free.fr Le Pily (gastronomy) Grande Rue - Cherbourg +33 (0)2 33 10 19 29 www.restaurant-le-pily.com MORE INFORMATION Brix Tourist Board – Valognes / +33 (0)2 33 40 11 55 / ww.ot-cotentin-bocage-valognais.fr Cherbourg Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 93 52 02 / www.cherbourgtourisme.com 14 STAGE 10 © Marc LEROUGE ETAPE 2 ROSCOFF ARRIVAL: > CHERBOURG MORLAIX Cherbourg station is in the city centre, close to the commercial port. It has good connections for your return journey to your departure point in Saint-Malo, with or without bikes, or transfer to major cities, stations and airports for your return journey (Paris and Caen). RETURN TRANSPORT TO SAINT-MALO with or without bikes Train: Cherbourg – Saint-Malo: return possible by 3-4 1/2 TER train journey from Cherbourg (with changes). Taxi: Cherbourg-Octeville Taxi / +33 (0)2 33 53 36 38 Taxi Seizeur / +33 (0)2 33 22 24 23 AIRPORT AND STATION TRANSFERS Car: Cherbourg / Paris: 350 km. Train: Cherbourg / Paris: direct 3 1/2 hour TER train journey. Cherbourg / Caen: direct 1 1/2 hour TER train journey to Caen. Air: Paris and Caen airports accessible by train or train + taxi from Cherbourg. Ferry: Crossings from Cherbourg to Poole and Portsmouth in England with Brittany Ferries. MORE INFORMATION Cherbourg Tourist Board / +33 (0)2 33 93 52 02 www.cherbourgtourisme.com © Marc LEROUGE 15