città dei cento orizzonti
Transcription
città dei cento orizzonti
ASOLO Città dei cento orizzonti 1 ASOLO Città dei cento orizzonti Defined by Giosuè Carducci the City of a Hundred Horizons, Asolo is one of the most picturesque old town centres in Italy. Contained within the ancient walls that branch off from the 12th century fortress, in every corner it preserves testimonies of its thousandyear old history. A fascinating place on the rolling Asolan hills, Asolo was a destination for poets and writers, artists and travellers that found inspiration and harmony here. Among them the English poet Robert Browning, the Divine theatre actress Eleonora Duse, the composer Gian Francesco Malipiero, the English writer and traveller Freya Stark. A visit to Asolo allows you to combine the pleasure for history and culture with that of dining. In taverns, restaurants, cafes and wine bars that overlook the characteristic arcades and squares you can enjoy delicious dishes prepared with the finest local produce and linked to the Venetian culinary tradition, such as the delicious Cicchetti. All accompanied by a glass of sparkling Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG, the excellence of our land. 2 Page 6 About Page 18 Old Town Page 54 Accomodations Page 63 Eat & Drink Page 88 Itineraries Page 118 Sport Page 120 Shopping Page 126 Tourism Services Page 132 SOS 4 SOS 5 About Comune di Asolo CAR PARKS Piazza Brugnoli car park in the old town centre How to get there: it is the main square of the old town centre. Times: always open with ZTL- Limited Traffic Zone access restrictions. Price: “scratch and park” card system purchasable at newsstands and bars in the centre. Piazza G. D’Annunzio, 1- 31011 Asolo +3904235245 Tourism office +390423524675 [email protected] Culture office +390423524637 [email protected] www.asolo.it Population: 9.068 inhabitants (31/08/2013 - Istat); Surface: 25,37 km²; Density: 352,07 ab./km²; Altitude: 74-379 m.s.l.m.” How to get there BY CAR: From the east: Toll booth Treviso Nord, via Montebelluna/Toll booth Treviso Sud, via Castelfranco From the south: Toll booth Padova, via Castelfranco, Nuova Strada del Santo From the west: Toll booth Vicenza Nord, exit Valdastico, via Cittadella /Castelfranco and Toll booth Dueville, via Bassano The old town centre is accessible by car, except for Saturday evenings and Sundays and holidays, when the ZTL applies. Ca’ Vescovo car park How to get there: along the Schiavonesca Marosticana highway (Montebelluna – Bassano del Grappa connection) in front of the “Scarpa” factory. Distance from the old town centre: approximately 2 km (it is recommended to take the shuttle for the ascent, which runs every 30 minutes. Times: Always open Price: Free ZTL timetable (Limited Traffic Zone): Access to the old town centre, to non-residents, is forbidden at the following times: -from 1 October to 30 April: every Saturday from 9:30 pm to 2:00 am of the following day – every Sunday and public holiday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. -from q May to 30 September: every Saturday from 9:30 pm to 2:00 am of the following day – every Sunday and holidays from 10:00 am to 10:00 pm. The Forestuzzo car park How to get there: from the Schiavonesca Marosticana highway(Montebelluna – Bassano del Grappa connection) go up towards the old town centre along Via Forestuzzo (reference: coming from Bassano go left after the Shell petrol station, coming from Montebelluna go right after the “Scarpa” factory). After about 1.5 km it is signposted on the right (reference: service area in front of the entrance of the former hospital, now the ULSS 8 – Local Health and social Care Services) GPS: TV002 N45,7963667 E11,9137833 Distance from the old town centre: approximately 6 7 About 400 metres uphill (with moderate incline) with shuttle bus stop Times: Always open Price: Free the “Cipressina” covered car park How to get there: from the Schiavonesca Marosticana highway(Montebelluna – Bassano del Grappa connection) go up towards the old town centre along Via Forestuzzo (reference: coming from Bassano go left after the Shell petrol station, coming from Montebelluna go right after the “Scarpa” factory). After about 2 km it is signposted on the right (reference: after 200 metres from the beginning of the one-way road and wide bend to the left). Distance from the old town centre: approximately 150 metres uphill (pavement along the access road). Times: Always open with parking meter Parking area and motorhome parking Equipped communal area with fee, open all year. Facility with 13/15 gridded paved pitches, water, small well, lighting, electricity, barbeque and picnic area, shaded. Located inside the Forestuzzo (P2) car park, at approximately 400 metres from the old town centre, with shuttle bus stop. Call Mr Attilio Pastro at n. 340 7733042. BY PLANE MARCO POLO VENEZIA www.veniceairport.it +390412606111 To reach Asolo, the MOM company has continuous connections with the railway and bus stations of Treviso. For the timetable see the following website: http://www.mobilitadimarca.it/aeroporto-bus For the timetable see the following website: http://www.mobilitadimarca.it/extraurbano Lines 161 and 162 Treviso- Montebelluna-Bassano CANOVA TREVISO www.trevisoairport.it +390422315111 To reach Asolo, the ACTT company – line n. 6, has continuous connections with the railway and bus stations of Treviso. From the Treviso bus station, take the bus for Asolo, Ca’ Vescovo bus stop. For the timetable see the following website: http://www.mobilitadimarca.it/extraurbano Lines 161 and 162 Treviso- Montebelluna-Bassano BY TRAIN Nearest railway stations: Montebelluna, 15 km Castelfranco Veneto, 16 km Bassano del Grappa, 16 km Cornuda, 8 km Montebelluna from the Montebelluna station, take line 162 (12b.LM) http://www.mobilitadimarca.it/extraurbano Castelfranco Veneto From the Castelfranco Veneto railway station go to the via Padgora 1 bus station, take line 204 (4CTM) http://www.mobilitadimarca.it/extraurbano Bassano del Grappa From the Bassano del Grappa railway station, take line 162 (12b.LM ) or line 207 (7CTM) http://www.mobilitadimarca.it/extraurbano From the Treviso bus station, take the bus for Asolo, Ca’ Vescovo bus stop. FOR THE OLD TOWN CENTRE OF ASOLO From the Ca’ Vescovo bus stop, in the MontebellunaBassano direction, a shuttle bus runs approximately 8 9 About every 30 minutes to reach the old town centre. Timetable at the bus stop or on internet at www.asolo.it, in the Plan your trip section. Tel. +39368282232 Information Point Piazza Garibaldi 73, 31011 Asolo +390423529046 [email protected] Opening time. Monday: Closed Tuesday: 9.30-12.30 Wednesday: 9.30-12.30 Thursday: 9.30-12.30 / 15.00-18.00 Friday: 9.30-12.30 / 15.00-18.00 Saturday: 9.30-12.30 / 15.00-18.00 Sunday: 9.30-12.30 / 15.00-18.00 province of Treviso Via Cal di Breda 116, 31100 Treviso +390422656000 www.visittreviso.it of great value; those who prefer nature can devote to the discovery of the three rivers of the province - the Sile, Piave and Livenza - and the many sports you can practice, cycling, paragliding; lovers of pleasures of the palate, ultimately, will not be dissatisfied with culinary excellence, first and foremost the Radicchio Rosso di Treviso and the famous Prosecco. This and much more make the province of Treviso the home of good eating and living better. Veneto Region Palazzo Balbi, Dorsoduro, 3901 30123 Venezia +390412792111 www.veneto.to The Veneto Region was established by Act May 22, 1971, n. 340. Articulation n.1 of the Regional Statute: The Veneto Region is an autonomous one, in the unity of the Italian Republic, according to the principles and limits of the Constitution, and gives this Statute. The Region is made up of people from the communities and the provinces of Belluno, Padua, Rovigo, Treviso, Venice, Verona and Vicenza. The capital is Venice. Located a few kilometers from Venice, the province of Treviso is a unique combination of landscapes, art, history, nature, good food and hospitality, the traveler could fall in love with it and it could stay in the heart of those who walks the scenarios. Scenarios that are constantly changing, passing by the harmony of the plains to the mountains of the Treviso Prealps, with the soft hills of Prosecco, the woods Montello and Cansiglio, through cities large and small, making the territory of the March “Gioiosa et Amorosa”, a mosaic of beauty to be discovered. Art and history lovers will find signs of ancient civilizations, medieval villages, stunning modern architecture and museums 10 11 About ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Francobollo 2005 The Marca Trevigiana area has had its own postage stamp beginning May 26, 2005 Asolo was selected to represent it with a beautiful view of the city set in the green hills surrounding it next to the two monuments that are symbolic of Asolan history: the Civic Tower and the famous medieval fortress. The postage stamp showing Asolo is part of the ‘Tourism 2005 series’ together with two other Italian locations: so, for northern Italy, Asolo; for central Italy, Rocchetta a Volturno; and, for southern Italy, Amalfi. Bandiera Arancione dal 2005 In 2005 Asolo received the Orange Flag, the mark of environmental tourist excellence for inland areas awarded by Touring Club Italiano. It is given to localities that meet the criteria concerning the development of quality tourism: optimising cultural heritage, conservation of the environment, culture of hospitality, access to and usability of resources, the quality of hotels and similar establishments, restaurants, and typical produce and products are just some of the key elements for obtaining the recognition. Città veneta della Cultura 2003 The Regional Council of the Veneto awarded the Municipality of Asolo First Prize and the designation of “Veneto city of culture -year 2003” for the variety and 12 the complexity of its programme of cultural events offered as part of a long-term programme involving different forms of expression, with the participation of the whole area. Borghi più Belli d’Italia dal 2002 Since 2002, Asolo has been part of “The most beautiful villages in Italy” club. The awarding of the Anci mark attests not only to the great artistic, historical, and traditional heritage in the municipality but also recognises the fulfilment of a number of structural characteristics, such as the architectural harmony of the urban fabric and the quality of its public and private building heritage, and general characteristics regarding how nice it is to live in the village in terms of activities and services to its citizens. Città dell’Esagono dal 1999 Asolo is part of the “Esagono”, an ambitious project for the promotion of tourism involving Asolo, Bassano del Grappa, Castelfranco, Cittadella, Marostica and Possagno. These six cities with a strong historical and artistic traditions are proposed as a single wider “territory” made up of walled cities, museums, works of art, handicrafts, typical produce and natural landscapes on an irregular line where the plain of Veneto meets the foothills of the mountains. Città del Vino dal 1997 Asolo is part of the “Città del Vino” (Wine Cities) association thanks to its wine production (with relative 13 About output with DOC designation Montello e Colli Asolani) and its commitment to favouring an economic and social development that respects the environment and local identities. Città Murate del Veneto dal 1995 The Municipality of Asolo is a member of the Regional association for the conservation and optimisation of the walled towns and cities in the Veneto Region. Soci di Arteven dal 1994 Titolo di Città Conferment of the Coat of Arms, the Standard and the entry in the “Heraldic Book of Non-profit making organisations” - year 1931. Città Slow Cittaslow: Asolo is part of the “Cittaslow” association. The aim of the association was and is to broaden the philosophy of Slow Food to the local towns and city governments, applying the concepts of wine and food to the practice of everyday life. Cittaslow is a new model that is no longer centred on continued growth but on the quality of the life in the city: the environment, historical, artistic and cultural heritage, the protection of the value of typical products, services, but above all of the issues of the identities of the cities, the relationship with workers and citizens, the reception and hospitality. www.cittaslow.org The regional association for the promotion and spread of theatre and culture throughout the communities in the Veneto offers a theatre bill of prose that involves professional companies in the Veneto region. The activities consist of a large circuit of shows over the area, especially through the creation of festivals in cities and villages alike. Moreover it organizes themed seminars, publications and activities of promotion and education of the public. 14 15 Old Town HISTORY Its great location and wonderful climate made Asolo a population centre right from prehistoric times and later a principal settlement for the Veneto people. Acelum, the Asolo of Roman times, went through a period of great expansion: the town that also became municipium, developed mainly between the first century BC and the first century AD. Archaeological remains and findings - housed in a special section of the City Museum- document the present of a spa, an aqueduct, a forum and a theatre testifying to the importance of Asolo in Roman times. A very ancient centre of Christianity as far back as the sixth century, the city had a bishop and was the centre of the diocese until 969 when it became enfeoffed to the bishopric of Treviso. At different times between the XIth and XIVth centuries it knew the hegemony of various powerful families (Tempesta, Ezzelini, da Camino, Scaligeri, Carraresi) and finally fell under the sway of Venice. From the end of the fourteenth century with the Venetian denomination, the centre entered a period of great splendour. In 1489 Venice bestowed upon Caterina Cornaro, former Queen of Cyprus, the Seigniory of Asolo. She created a magnificent Renaissance court of artists, men of letters and poets and left an indelible imprint in the art and in the very ideal of the city. Through Venice, Asolo received far-reaching urban reorganisation and its big brother bound it to itself and its aristocracy inextricably until the fall of the Venetian Republic. “Asolo is Venice and Venice is Asolo” goes the saying to underline the similarity of the atmosphere that is demonstrated in the architecture and in the spirit of the towns. The year 1797 saw the entrance of Napoleon. In the nineteenth century under the dominion of Austria, Asolo was involved in the reforms of the civil institutions and by a programme of public works, such as the revamping of the Duse Theatre. It finally became part of the Kingdom of Italy in 1866. A curious testimony to the events in Asolo’s history during the XIXth century is the old clock with an enormous pendulum hidden behind the counter in a wine shop in via Browning, not far from the Teatro dei Rinnovati. The events of the city’s history are noted down here starting from the beginning of the nineteenth century. 16 17 Old Town 1) Chiesa di San Gottardo 2) Casa Malipiero 3) Fontanella Zen 4) Villa Freya 5) Cattedrale 6) Palazzo della Ragione 7) Museo Civico 8) Fontana Maggiore 9) Mura 10) Rocca 11) Convento S.S. Pietro e Paolo 12) Piazza Brugnoli 13) Acquedotto Romano “La Bot” 14) Villa Scotti-Pasini 18 15) Casa Gotica 16) Castello 17) Teatro Duse 18) Palazzo Beltramini 19) Casa Duse 20) Case Anseatiche, Costruzioni dell’architetto Pittore Mario De Maria (Marius Pictor) 21) Chiesa di S. Caterina 22) Casa Longobarda 23) Villa degli Armeni e “Fresco” 24) S. Anna e Cimitero con tombe di Eleonora Duse e Freya Stark 25) “Maglio” 19 Old Town What to see 1) Chiesa di San Gottardo - Church ChurchThe presence of a Friars Minor Conventual monastery is documented in a land sale contract dated 1254; the church was dedicated to San Michele Archangel, then known as Sant’Angelo. It is known by the name San Gottardo because, in the first half of the fifteenth century, an altar and a brotherhood of flagellants dedicated to the saint were institured. It became the best known monastery in Asolo and used to offer hospitality to leading personalities. It was also the venue of a school for Asolo’s finest families. It boasted a very extensive library that was broken up following a Venetian Decree of 1769 suppressing religious orders. The state of abandon into which the monastery fell led to a decision to knock it down between 1820 and 1830 conserving only the church that passed under the administration of the cathedral. Inside, the oldest antique decorative work dates back to the middle of the 1300s and a further cycle of frescos were superimposed over it a century later. Now deconsecrated, the church is periodically the setting of high-profile chambre music concerts organised by Asolo Musica. 2) Casa Malipiero - Historical Building Standing on the Foresto Vecchio near the Church of San Gottardo is the house where composer Gianfrancesco Malipiero (Venice 1882-Asolo 1973) lived for nearly fifty years. It is characterised by small rooms furnished with severe furniture made of dark wood. Striking are the collections of butterflies and insects as well as the antiques the composer loved to collect. Today the building is the Headquarters of the Foundation bearing the Master’s name with the aim of preserving his memory. Behind the house one can walk along a path to the cave where Malipiero wanted to be buried. 3) Fontanella Zen - Monument The small cistern for the collection of water situated at the southern entrance to the city, near the Castelfranco gate, was built by the Zen family in 1571 following an agreement between them and the Town Council. The family had in fact asked the town council to bring water from the collection point in the square to their mansion on the Foresto Vecchio. The town council consented to the construction of the pipe only against the precise pledge by the Zen family to build the mountain for the benefit of the wayfarers arriving in the village after a long climb. lts water also supplied the collection tanks used by washerwomen and as troughs for horses, situated just outside the Ceci (now 20 21 Old Town Casrelfranco) gate. The recently restored fountain is still used as a stop for refreshment for those tackling Asolo’s steep climbs. travels. The park, that continues behind the house, was occupied in Roman times by the Roman theatre complex discovered in 1879 and following years by Pacifico Scomazzetto; in the 90s it was excavated by the University of Padua. 4) Villa Freya - Villa Near the Castelfranco gate stands the house and grounds that belonged to Freya Stark, the great English writer and traveller (Paris 1893 Asolo 1993) who chose Asolo as a home for recouping her energies after her tiring journeys of exploration in the Middle East. Set into the front door is a ceramic tile in eastern style with an Arabic inscription. The interiors are simple but cosy, only a few of the rooms being furnished in a slightly extravagant style. The grounds were once transformed into a botanic garden to accommodate the essences collected on Stark’s 5) Cattedrale - Church The first documented mention of the complex dates back to 969 when the ecclesia in honore Bearae Virgins Mariae constructa is mentioned. In 1584, according to the description of a pastoral visit, the church must have assumed the structure that can still be seen. In 1606 following the collapse of the roof, the apse and the main altar were reconstructed in addition to the cover. It was during the course of that century that the structure lost the signs of its medieval layout. In the middle of the eighteenth century, architect Massari was commissioned to reorder the inside. The Cathedral has a main nave and two side naves with stone columns. Next to the main altar two angels by Giuseppe Bernardi are to be seen; the baptismal font dated 1491 shows the coat-of-arms of Queen Cornaro who commissioned architect Francesco Graziolo. Then there are two major altar pieces by Lorenzo Lotto and Jacopo Da Ponce. The external 22 23 Old Town is the result of the work completed in 1889 to the design of Pietro Saccardo who juxtaposed the visible face with the old facade. against the Parthians” while the northwards-facing section has a frieze resplendent with scrolls and festoons of vegetation. The entire groundfloor is occupied by the portico (Loggia) where justice was administered during the Venetian period. Memorial stones and epigraphs are set into the internal walls. Situated on the top floor you will find the Sala della Ragione, once the Museum’s exhibition hall and now used for cultural gatherings and temporary exhibitions. 6) Palazzo della Ragione - Historical Building The mansion, an integral part of the building occupied by the Town Museum was built during the fifteenth century. The eastwards-facing facade, looking onto the square is decorated with a fresco painted in 1588 the subject of which is the “The defeat of Crassus 7) Museo Civico - Museum In addition to the Palazzo del Vescovado, the current Town Museum also occupies the Loggia della Ragione building built to house the representatives of the Town Council and the Magnificent Community of Asolo and was decorated with frescos around the middle of the sixteenth century. The first nucleus of the museum’s collections was formed at the beginning of the nineteenth century thanks to donations from Bartolomeo Fietta and, above all , from Domenico Manera and Giovan Battista Sartori Canova. At 24 25 Old Town the end of the century, the museum was officially instituted, established in the then municipal hall of the Loggia della Ragione, and it was gradually expanded in part as the result of bequests from Andrea Manera and Pacifico Scomazzetto. From the early twentieth century, donations became more and more frequent and considerably increased the artistic and historical items in the institute. Recent rearrangements house the Archaeological Section (Ground Floor), the Art Gallery (first floor), the Caterina Cornaro section, the Treasure of the Cathedral and the Eleonora Duse and Freya Stark section (second floor). Historical Archive. At the end of the fifteenth century, the Asolo community demonstrated a particolar awareness of its deeds and documents as a source that would also be useful to generations to come; from that period it therefore had “a conserving machine” realising the importance of written documentation and the requirement that it is not tampered with, falsified or lost. The history of the Historical Archive over the nineteenth century is interwoven with that of the Museum that was about to come into being. A number of important manuscripts relative to Asolan history and personalities were therefore included among the museum’s archaeological collections until they were significantly grouped together starting from 1921. In the 1970s, the then Museum Director Corrado Fabris saw to a general rearrangement that enabled academics to use the archive. Since 1981, all the documentation in the Historical Archive (from the fifteenth to the first half of the nineteenth century) was transferred to the museum centre. Restoration operations followed which involved maps, incunabula, the codes of the Treviso statutes etc. The archive is sub-divided into three sections: old regime (1411-1796), AustroFrench era (1797-1814) and eighteenth and nineteenth century (1815-1920). Opening time: Saturday and Sunday 10.00-19.00 Price: 5 € full, 4 € reduced www.facebook.com/MuseoCivicoDiAsolo 26 8) Fontana Maggiore - Monument The fountain, situated in the square of the same name, is the spititual centre of the town, is important as a tangible sign of the solution of age-old and recurrent issues experienced by the inhabitants of Asolo in their quest for a water supply, a fact that indissolubly links the fountain with the historical town of Asolo. From time immemorial until the first thirty years of the twentieth century, the Fontana Maggiore was the main system of water collection in the centre of town thanks to the supply by the underground aqueducts of the “Bot”. The form of the fountain visible today dates back to 1575 when it was restored under the Podesta Giovanni Pisani. The bequest of the winged lion by sculto Antonio Dal Zotto, on the other hand, dates to 1918. The fountain was recently given a thorough overhaul and cleaning restoring it to working order. 9) Mura - Monument The building of the medieval town’s defences along the lines of the system of fortification still partly in existence, was completed in the fourteenth century, 27 Old Town when Asolo became the object of bitter, continuous struggles between the noble families of Verona, Padua and Venice. Probably the city had already had a number of towers and isolated defence works for a long time before that, but the first definite wallbuilding activities were recorded in 1318 when a so called dry wall was first built along some stretches of the perimeter of the town. Decisive for the definitive form of the wall was the Paduan dominion of Asolo in 1381 and 1388. It was then that work began to “murare burgum Asili” or wall Asolo by Francesco da Carrara without however finishing the work before the final coming of the Venetians who completed the city fortification. The circuit of the walls was not limited to including the entire tightly settled area and the castle complex, but it extended as far as the fortress at the top of Mount Ricco, that thus became a physical part of the town and its privileged point of strategic value, both as a watch tower and for defensive purposes. The circuit of the walls stretched 1360 metres with 24 towers at strategic points and several gates and doors, not all of the same time, where the roads leading into and out of the town passed through. The openings are the Castelfranco gate (also called Loreggia), 28 the Dieda gate, demolished in 1812 for the construction of the Foresto nuovo (also called S. Gervasio), the S. Martino gate, now bricked up and partially visible in the garden of the De Lord villa (outside the wall) or in the garden of the “Casa Rossa” (inside the wall), the Colmarion gate (also called the Bot gate), the S. Caterina gate (also called the Foresto, di Belvedere) and the Sottocastello gate. In modern and contemporary times some stretches collapsed and were demolished . To date there is absolutely no evidence to support the hypothesis, several times advanced and maintained even though unfounded, of the existence of walls in Roman times. 10) Rocca - Rocca Built at the summit of Mount Ricco that overlooks the centre of Asolo, the mighty edifice in irregular polygon style of the fortress (average height 15 metres and a width of 2.5 metres for the north and west sides and 3.5 metres for the other sides) dates back to a period spanning the middle-end of twelfth century to the beginning of the thirteenth century, as has been established by archaeological findings in excavations conducted by the University of Padova. This is the period in which the ancient settlement acquired greater importance and therefore built itself a more imposing defensive structure. The construction of the fortress entailed the destruction on the one hand of the residential area - formerly productive, on the other of a number of graves from the necropolis in the area. Traces of the initial habitation of the fortification (thirteenth century) are rather weak, but more evident are those linked to the successive eras of domination by the municipality of Treviso (1261-1339), Venice (1339-1381), Carrara (1379 1388) and Venice again (1388-1796). Between the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries there was the construction of a cistern-well for the collection of rainwater (still visible) and the arrangement of the southeastern area with the construction of a bread oven. For the entire length of time 29 Old Town between the sertlement and 1510, the year in which records declare the fortress was used for warlike purposes for the last rime, it housed a garrison of soldiers. The fortification started to fall into decay right back as early as the sixteenth century. In 1650 there was even an attempt to sell the Fortress by Venice for the, not very high, price of 320 ducats. The operation was suspended and avoided at the eleventh hour by the fervent desire of the Asolan community which loved that building which, having already become by age-old tradition an unimpeachable part of town life is still to be admired today, almost guards and acts as custodian of the little village lying at its feet. From the buttresses of the fortress that underwent massive work to restore them in the 1980’s and 90’s it is today possible to enjoy a bird’s eyeview and a 3600 view of the horizon from the Po plain to the entire arc of the surrounding mountains. On clear days and with good light one can clearly make out the lagoon of Venice. Opening time: Saturday and Sunday 10.00-19.00 (april-october) 10.00-17.00 (november-march) Price: 2€; free for children under 6 became the Headquarters of the city schools, which it continued to be until the new scholastic building was built near the hospital. The church and annexed monastery took the name S. Luigi for a while after the conversion of the complex into a school and young people’s meeting point. It was recently given back its original name. Today, the complex is home to prestigious master’s courses organised by CIMBA (Consortium Institute of Management and Business Analysis), a consortium of thirty-seven American Universities. 11) Convento S.S. Pietro e Paolo - Historical Building The Benedictine monastery complex found against the city wall at the foot of the hill the fortress stands on, was occupied by monks from 1634 to 1807. After that, it was converted into a boarding school and 12) Piazza Brugnoli - Square The existence of Roman hot baths at Asolo was known as long ago as 1715 when a Roman inscription was discovered having been put to new use as the base of a window. It commemorated a certain Publius Acilius, curator rei publicae originally from Rome (a sort of Prefectural Commissioner today), who restored the public baths damaged in a fire. A few clues to the probable location of the baths have been gathered around today’s piazza Brugnoli: Roman walls, remains of conduits, various objects as well as the discovery back in 1642, of a mosaic floor. This public building was not however precisely identified until 1876- 1877 when an old district of houses was entirely razed on the site of the square today (the so-called Alocco district) to make way for the building of the Cattle Market. On this occasion Pacifico Scomazzetto, selftaught archaeologist and one of Asolo’s principal “ancient” historians, managed to bring to light and reveal the foundations of parts of the bathing system, (the remainder is still buried in the garden of villa Scotti, now Pasini), and to recuperate various materials. Features that can be recognised of the baths complex, dating from between the first and fourth centuries A.D., include a large calidarium (the place where hor baths were taken) with a floor standing on small brick columns for the passage of hot air underneath that heated the water baths, another room with a floor on small 30 31 Old Town columns, perhaps the tepidarium (where tepid baths were taken), two large baths, a room with a black and white mosaic floor, two rooms used as a praefurnium, a place for combustion and the production of hot air. A direct link with the Roman aqueduct called the Bot led to these rooms. Between 1964-65 and in 1993, while the square was being resurfaced, small-scale excavations were made that substantially confirmed the discoveries of Scomazzetto. 13) Acquedotto Romano “La Bot” - Monument The aqueduct, the function of which is linked to the Roman baths ensuring them a water supply, stretched for some 600-700 meters from the water inlet at the “Tintina” spring (on the Northern slope of Mount Ricco) down as far as the town square where the baths were situated. From the source to around the medieval gate known as “Pusterla del Colmarion” the water was taken by a system of lead pipes some of which were discovered in the 1800s by academic Pacifico Scomazzetto. From this point where it converged with another ancient source, the aqueduct ran in an underground tunnel approximately 157 metres long dug into Mount Ricco. The water had to be d istr ibuted to the baths directly with piping, found at various times in the past, in the final stretch of the water works where it currently comes out in Piazza Brugnoli. The underground Roman passage (on average 50 centimetres wide and between 1 and 2 metres high) present at least four different cladding techniques depending on the different geological make up of the ground as it was encountered. The original water system can be dated to the first century A.D. In perhaps medieval times the Roman aqueduct became part of a more complex water system thanks to the construction on the northern stretch of a superimposed tunnel that traced the oldest route, the so called “Cava” (pit) or the “Cava delle Monache” (Monks’ pit) (owing to the vicinity of the S. Luigi or S. Pietro Monastery) The beginning of works to restore the Bot began in the early 1800s. It was not, however, until 1918 that architect Leon Gurekian measured and analysed the Bot in the form of a historical document and, with the report by the “Commission for the protection of the Monuments and the Landscapes of the Asolo Area” (Commissione per la protezione dei Monumenri e dei Paesaggi dell’Asolano) in 1922, it obtained the protection of monument status in 1923. From that date the “Bot” once more fell into oblivion; the “pit” was used as depository - wine cellars and, during the last world war, as an airraid shelter. Only in the last ten years have the waterworks been the subject of a specific study and a complete graphical reconstruction. Opening time: Saturday and Sunday 10.00-19.00 Price: Free Entry 14) Villa Scotti-Pasini - Villa From the slopes of Mount Ricco, the Villa dominates the area of the squares in the town centre. The first villa layout seems to date back to the seventeenth century, while various extensions and tights of way were made in subsequent centuries. The first nucleus of the villa was built when small buildings were 32 33 Old Town grouped during the seventeen hundreds, while the addition of the wings that give the structure its current appearance came later. 15) Casa Gotica - Historical Building Between 1988 and 1990 the Veneto Archaeological Department conducted largescale excavations around the building known as “Casa Gotica” or Gothic House. Through these it has been possible to document the uninterrupted habitation of Asolo from the late bronze age - early iron age (X-IX century B.C.) down through the medieval period to the modern age. The materials that have come to light refer to a settlement of the ancient tribe of Veneto people. It is probable that already with this first residential area, originally rather sloping and uneven, was levelled and terraced for the precise purpose of providing an area that could be accessed and transited easily. For the middle and late iron age (VI-II centuryB.C.) finds attesting to the influx of the Retic people restify to the role Asolo played in ancient times as a hinge between two cultural worlds. Again in the Roman era the area was earmarked for housing. In fact, the remains of a house have come to light that can be dated to between 1st and 3rd centuries A.D., with a water drainage channel, as well as the remains of a later house (2nd to 5th century A.D.), with large ourdoor area and an external brickwork sewage channel. 34 16) Castello - Castel The castle, together with the fortress one of the symbols of the Asolan countryside, seems to date back to the l0th century although there is no definite information indicating the origins of the complex in 1242 it was home to Ezzelino da Romano and, from 1339, it became the seat of the podesta of Venice. At the end of the fourteenth century it became one with the city walls, construction that begun during the brief dominion of the Carraresi. Three of the four towers once characterising it still remain: the Civic or Bell tower, the Reata tower acting as a gaol and the Carro tower, nowadays part of the adjacent residence called La Torricella. In 1489 it became the residence of Caterina Cornaro, and Pietro Bembo set his “Gli Asolani “ dialogues in this palace and its gardens. After Caterina’s death it was readapted to administrative functions and extensively restored. The French were stationed here in 1797 and, the next year, the 35 Old Town great “Pretoria Hall”, where Venetian podesta once administered justice, was converted into a theatre. The western side of the castle was knocked down in 1816. Today the majestic clock tower is visible from all over town. 17) Teatro Duse - Theater The theatre has been housed in the castle since 1798, first as created by Antonio Locatelli, a simple wooden structure and then rebuilt to the design of architect Marrignago in 1857. The new theatre had three orders of boxes and was embell is hed with figurative reliefs by the Aster brothers and paintings by De Marchi. In 1930 the theatre was knocked down and the wooden profile dismantled and sold to antique dealer Loewi in Venice who resold it to the State of Florida in 1949. Today it can be seen at the Ringling Museum in Sarasora (Florida U. S.A.). The only testimony to the old theatre remaining in Asolo is the crystal chandelier that now lights the Council Chamber at the Town Hall. The new theatre, built to the design of architect Forlati, was inaugurated in 1932 and named for Eleonora Duse. During the Nineties, the castle complex and the clock tower underwent radical revamping that, among other things, restored the theatre in a form reminiscent of the origin al structure. For the last few years it has been the venue of large-scale and well-appreciated plays and other performances. 18) Palazzo Beltramini - Historical Building The mansion known as Beltramini, the name of a family who arrived in Asolo from Lombardy in the second half of the fifteenth century and soon became one of the most famous in the city, took on a new architectural appearance during the eighteenth century. In fact, in this period the mansion in piazza D’Annunzio was restored and structured in its present form by the famous architect Giorgio Massari, again on the commission of the Beltramini family. A special and in36 genious solution was adepte for the architectural decoration of the facade inserted in the limited space of the square: the result was a three-order facade with arcade with ashlar-work columns laid out in such a way that they can be seen from the end of via Cornaro. The inside is refined too; the noble hall occupies two stories and is crowned with an elegant curved balcony. The mansion first became the property of the Pasini family and then of the Nerudas before passing into the hands of the municipality which made it the town hall. 19) Casa Duse - Historical Building If you walk along via Canova, when you get to the Santa Caterina gate which closes off the long view of the road you find Casa Duse. This mansion, in the sixteenth century already residence of Francesco Nursio Timideo da Verona, personal secretary of Queen Cornaro, is situated on the medieval walled perimeter. It was rented and restored by the star with the intention of retiring there. The availability of the house was the 37 Old Town dow sill. And I have an altar”. It was only after the “adversary” pulled out of the negotiations that Eleanora Ouse regained possession of the building that was later acquired by the daughter of the famous actress. subject of an event that testifies to the romantic and passionate soul of Eleanora Ouse. In dispute with a Venetian family, the actress initially gave up the residence when she discovered why her “adversary” wanted it: wife of a soldier who fell at Grappa, she wanted to keep alive his dear memory by looking out of the windows of that building with its enchanting view of that tragic spot. The famous words of the actress are significant: “When in the morning I open the shutters of my room, Mount Grappa is framed in the window. Then I put two vases of flowers on the win- 20) Case Anseatiche - Historical Building The two curious constructions (Casa de Maria and Casa Pusinich) are clearly architectural “loans” from Nordic European culture that, with a considerable film-set like effect, make these little buildings real cameos in the context in which they are situated. The two small villas were constructed in the years 1914-15 by painter Mario de Maria, better known as “Marius Pictor”. He chose Asolo to live in and it was here that he decided to be buried: it was his friend D’Annunzio who dictated the epigraph on the commemorative plaque placed on the front of his house in 1924 and it is still visible today. It must not however be forgotten that one of the two houses was the residence of poet and man of letters Guido Pusinich. 21) Chiesa di S. Caterina - Church Its construction is linked to the birth and development of the Battuti Brotherhood whose presence dates back to the early 1300s. The foundation of the hospital situated alongside the church also dates back to 38 39 Old Town At the western end of via Santa Caterina, stands a house with unusual architectural form and a finely sculpted facade. It is the house of architect and sculptor Francesco Graziolo, who came to Asolo during th e reign of Queen Cornaro , as her personal architect, and died here in 1536. It takes the name Longobarda because, in the engraving found on the architrave of the second order, the architect is called longobardus. It must have been the site of his workshop on the facade of which he exhibited a number of his works. the brotherhood. The building has a smooth hut-like facade with central oculus with a single room. The interior was decorated between the fourteenth and fifteenth century with a first cycle of frescos. At the beginning of the 1500s, it underwent a restoration that changed its appearance considerably in addition to creating new paintings inside that can still be seen today (episodes from the life of St. Catherine and scenes from Christ’s passion). The hospital continued to function until the beginning of the 1900s when the new town hospital was built. 22) Casa Longobarda - Historical Building 40 23) Villa degli Armeni e “Fresco” - Historical Building It is situated to the west of the town centre at the summit of the Messano hill. It is one of the most famous monuments in the Asolo area and consists of two distinct but intimately connected bodies: the so-called “Fresco”, consisting of a spectacular facade pointing northwards and clearly seen from the S. Caterina district, and the actual villa on the southern slope of the hill. The two parts are connected by a tunnel running through the top of Mount Messano. The complex was constructed by a Venetian family, the Surians, in 1558 and became the properry of the Contarinis by inheritance. Then it passed at the beginning of the 1800s into the hands of various noble Venetian families: the Bragadinis, the Soranzos and the Pasqualinis to be finally transferred to the Arme41 Old Town nian boarding school on the island of San Lazzaro of the lagoon of Venice and recently return to private property. Worthy of note while the villa was under construction were the frescos with biblical scenes, the work of Brescian artist Lattanzio Gambara, that still adorn the southern face. 24) S. Anna e tomba E. Duse e F. Stark - Monument The Monastery of the Capucine monks with annexed church was built with the permission of Sixtus V in 1587 and survived until 1769. After becoming municipal property it was fitted out as a lazzarette, barracks and home for the needy. The belvedere of the monastery became a burial place after the Napoleonic Saint Cloud edict ordering cemeteries to be moved outside the town and, after that, illustrious personalities from Asolan life (E. Duse, Freya Stark, Manara Valgimigli etc.) came to rest forever in this hermitage sleeping in the quiet greenery After a century and a half of alternating activity and semi abandonment, the old monastery was finally able to return to its original and more suitable purpose: in 1928 the Capucine monks returned there and it took on the name of Sant’Anna from an altar existing in the church. 42 25) Maglio - Historical Building The complex is situated in Pagnano, at the foot of the Asolan Hills, and consists of a forge, a service building behind and a dwelling. The date of “1468” and the sign with an anvil were found in the oldest part next to a Gothic window. The forge used from medieval times up to 1979 for the working of metal, harnessed the driving force supplied by a derivation of the Muson stream. The use of the complex changed during the eighteenth century when it was used for clothes fulling works. Around a century later , in 1770, activities linked to iron working were resumed. In 1989 the complex was bought by the Asolo Town Council, restored and put to work for cultural purposes. Piazza Garibaldi - Square Heart of the city can be considered the central Piazza Garibaldi, with the sixteenth-century fountain topped by the winged lion of St. Marco. From here you can easily reach the main monuments of Asolo. 43 Old Town Traditions and Events EVENTS Antique Market Every second Sunday of the month (except July and August) since 1976, the antique market has taken place. Furniture, jewellery, silverware, prints and books, modern art and general objects, are exposed along the streets of the old town centre. References for the antique market From Monday to Friday: dr.ssa Antonella Bagatella Tel. 0423 524675 Email: [email protected] 44 Palio dei 100 Orizzonti Events Introduced for the first time in 1992, the Palio dei 100 Orizzonti, was inspired by the arrival of Queen Caterina Cornaro in Asolo, rising for 1,800 meters in the Foresto Vecchio back in October 1489. This event therefore wants to evoke in a popular form this important moment for the city of Asolo. The “Palio dei 100 Orizzonti” sees 9 crews, composed of young guys driving a Roman chariot with a handmaiden on board, representing the municipalities of Altivole, Asolo, Castelcucco, Fonte, Maser, Monfumo, Possagno, Riese PioX and San Zenone degli Ezzelini. The HISTORICAL PROCESSION is enriched by figures in period dress. http://www.paliodiasolo.com/ 45 Old Town Personalities Eleonora Duse (1916) taken from the homonymous novel by Grazia Deledda. She returned in 1921, presenting her new repertoire with pieces by Ibsen and D’Annunzio (The lady of the sea, La città morta / The Dead City, The Ghosts), by Marco Praga (La porta chiusa / The Closed Door) and by Tommaso Gallarati Scotti (Così sia). In 1923, though in poor health, she started a new tour in the United Stated, and passed away in Pittsburgh in April 1924. GIANFRANCESCO MALIPIERO ELEONORA DUSE was born in 1858 in Vigevano into a family of wandering artists, Vincenzo (stage name Alessandro) Duse, originally from Chioggia, and Angelica Cappelletto. She started treading on the boards at a tender age with her parents, and proved her talent in 1873 when she played Juliet at the Arena of Verona. She joined various companies, and then founded one with famous Giacinta Pezzana, with whom in 1877 she successfully staged Emile Zola’s drama Thérèse Raquin in Naples. From 1880 to 1887 she performed with Cesare Rossi’s Compagnia Città di Torino, gladly playing Dumas’s characters (Princess of Baghdad, Lady of the Camellias, Wedding Visit and Claude’s wife). She soon separated from her husband, actor Tebaldo Marchetti (stage name Tebaldo Checchi) from whom she had a daughter, Enrichetta. Between 1885 and 1904 she experienced two great passions, which enormously impacted on her artistic life as well: Arrigo Boito, poet and Verdi’s librettist, and Gabriele D’Annunzio, who basically started his theatre production because of Eleonora Duse (Sogno di un mattino di Primavera / The Dream of a Spring Morning, Gioconda, Gloria, La Città Morta / The Dead City, Francesca da Rimini). In 1909, at the age of 51, she suddenly left the stage, but this did not prevent her from working on her only film, Cenere / Ashes Musician GIANFRANCESCO MALIPIERO was born in Venice on 18th March 1882. He did his studies in Paris and Berlin, where he came into contact with the contemporary expressions of music and assimilated the influences of Debussy, Ravel, Stravinsky. He spent his life in Rome and the Veneto, teaching in several institutes. In 1939 he became the director of the Conservatoire of Venice.He discovered Asolo in 1910. Attracted by the beauty of the place and in search for a shelter from the city fuss, he stayed there until his death. His strong tie to the town is attested by one of his writings in which he mentions Asolo: La pietra del bando, printed in 1945 and later reprinted in 1990. A prolific composer, his works include Poemi Asolani, Torneo notturno (1931), I capricci di Callot (1942) and Uno di dieci (1970).From 1925 to his death he held the office of Honorary Inspector of Superintendence for Monuments, which allowed him to deal with the protection of the environment and cultural heritage in 46 47 Old Town Asolo.He died in Treviso in 1973 and was buried in a grave designed by himself, located at the bottom of his house garden in via Foresto Vecchio. FREYA STARK Explorer and writer FREYA STARK was born in Paris in 1893. Her parents, both English, brought her up in France, England and Italy. As a child she lived in Asolo for a long time, then in 1911 she went to study at Bedford College, but the tragic fortunes of the war took her back to Italy, where she helped as a Red Cross nurse on the Carso area. Being charmed by faraway lands, she started learning Arabic in 1927 and went on frequent journeys to the Near and Middle East. She got in touch with the Royal Geographical Society, which in 1933 awarded her the Back memorial Prize for her cartographic contributions and trips to Luristan. In the following years she collected literary successes, collaborations with the British government, the BBC and the Royal Asia Society. During the second world war she was in Yemen, at the age of 76 she left for Persia and then for Afghanistan and Iraq. In 1972, thanks to her reckless life, she received the title of honour “Dame Freya Stark” by the Queen of England. She went to Nepal on her last expedition at 88, and then settled down in her house in Asolo, where she died in 1993 at the age of a hundred. 48 Caterina Cornaro CATERINA CORNARO was born in 1454 in San Cassiano, a Venetian palace overlooking the Grand Canal; her parents were the noble knight Marco Cornaro and Fiorenza Crespo. The Cornaro (or Corner) family achieved dogado (dukedom) in 1365 with eighty-year old Marco, and became rich and powerful thanks to the fruitful trade with the Levant, in particular with Cyprus. In this island, the various family branches owned large landholdings and plantations and had set up ties – also at economic level – with the ruling house of Lusignano (of the royal house of Borgogna), who in 1192 replaced the Templar Knights in the island government. Both Caterina’s uncle Andrea, and her father Marco were habitual visitors, and financiers, of the Nicosia court: thanks to Venetian support, James II Lusignan, named “The Bastard”, had come to the throne. The same Andrea had lent great amounts of money to the king so that he could face the Turkish threat. Moreover, it seems that it was uncle Andrea who suggested to the king the marriage with his niece Caterina, envisaging the advantage of a marital bond with a daughter of Venice. Caterina married the king of Cyprus by proxy in a lavish ceremony in Venice (1468), and was then “adopted” by the city; she joined her husband on the island only in 1472, where she was crowned “Queen of Cyprus, Jerusalem and Armenia”. Upon death of James II in 1473 and of her young son James III in 1474, Caterina Cornaro governed Cyprus until 1489, when because of Venetian ambitions she 49 Old Town was forced to surrender her kingdom to the Serenissima, obtaining in exchange the domination of the land of Asolo. Here the queen dwelt in the Castle fortress, which had become the rendezvous for artists and illustrious people (Pietro Bembo set the conversations of love of Asolani at the Asolo court). Between 1491 and 1493 she had a country villa built up and decorated in Altivole, at the foot of the hills of Asolo, which Bembo named Barco. The queen spent the last part of her life between Asolo and the palaces of Venice, and passed away in 1510 in San Cassiano palace. Roberto Browning Pietro Bembo PIETRO BEMBO (1470-1547), born into a Venetian noble family, was started by his father in humanistic studies, which he completed in Messina at Lascaris Greek school. Back in Venice, he participated in Aldo Manuzio’s editorial-cultural programme. He held important public offices and became in 1530 official historian of the Venetian Republic; in 1539 he was made cardinal.Being a cousin of Caterina Cornaro, he came to Asolo in 1495 for the wedding of the Queen’s damsel. His stay in town inspired the setting for Asolani (1505), dialogues in three volumes alternating prose and verses, in which he brings forward the idea of a spiritual love, contemplative desire for beauty. Yet his fame is linked to the Prose della volgar lingua (1525), a work that affirmed the exemplarity of fourteenth-century authors (mostly Tetrarca and Boccaccio) and gave origin to the language question. 50 ROBERT BROWNING, (London 1812-Venice 1889), already author of verses Pauline (1833) and Paracelsus (1835) as well as of the historical tragedy Strafford (1837), visited Italy for the first time in 1838 to study on spot the setting for his poem called Sordello. Afterwards he went to Trieste, Venice, Treviso, Bassano, Asolo, Vicenza, Padua and his first stay in Asolo inspired the dramatic tetralogy Pippa Passes (1841). During his second journey to Italy in 1844 he went to Naples, Rome and Livorno where he probably drew inspiration for the patriotic poems The Italian in England and The Englishman in Italy (1845) and for The Patriot (1849). At the end of 1846 the poet was back in Italy, first in Pisa, then in Florence where he spent fifteen years beside his wife, English poetess Elisabeth Barrett. In 1861 his spouse died and he returned to England with his young son Pen, but was back in Italy on several occasions from 1878 on the lake Como, in Fiera di Primiero and mostly in Asolo and Venice, the places of his early inspiration. In December 1889 his last poem was published, Asolando, dedicated to his friend from Asolo Caterina Bronson. He passed away shortly after that in Venice on the 12th of December 1889 in Rezzonico palace, which had been bought by his son a few years earlier. 51 Accomodations Old Town HOTEL Albergo Al Sole Via Collegio 33, 31011 Asolo +390423951332, +390423951007 [email protected] www.albergoalsole.com ***** Nestled in the heart of the medieval village of Asolo, this timeless Hotel has a warm atmosphere and is surrounded by rich art and culture, including Palladian Villas and the temple of Antonio Canova. An ideal starting point for walks and excursions to vineyards and wineries that give charm to the landscape. A popular destination for cyclists from all over the world for its spectacular natural scene ryand paths around the city its surroundings. Hotel Villa Cipriani Via Canova 298, 31011 Asolo +390423523411, +390423952095 [email protected] http://www.villaciprianiasolo.com/it/ **** A Renaissance villa with a unique perfumed Italian garden surrounded by an enchanting mix of art, history and nature: Villa Cipriani is all and much more! Located in the heart of the picturesque town of Asolo. The elegant Villa used to be the private home of the famous 19th century English poet Robert Browning; 52 nowadays the hotel offers 31 lovely rooms (2 single and 29 double). A stay in the romantic Hotel Villa Cipriani offers enchanting views of the landscaped garden or still a gorgeous panoramic view on the gentle hills of Asolo , The two Grand Deluxe rooms have a large outside terrace. The bedrooms are all furnished with genuine antiques and finished in exquisite examples of traditional Italian craftsmanship such as terracotta, marble and watercolors. The Hotel Villa Cipriani also offers room service, 24-hour front desk, service, concierge, business secretarial staff, business center, currency exchange, porterage, laundry, 24-hour valet parking, car rental, maid, shoe shine, wake-up and doorman services. Hotel Duse Via Browning 190, 31011 Asolo +39042355241 [email protected] www.hotelduse.com *** Situated directly on the romantic central square with the cathedral and adjacent castle, under gothic arcades and between the characteristic small streets, stands the Hotel Duse. Ancient building entirely renewed, to the inside presents a simple style but attentive to the details giving to the Hosts a warm atmosphere. Century old walls conceal 14 comfortable rooms furnished in a charming style, fully equipped with air conditioning/heating, minibar, tv-sat, direct 53 Outside the city walls phone and dial-up internet connection socket. Other facilities: courtesy-service, hairdryer, shave-set, theeth-set, possibilities to rent a bike, personalized tours around the area. Hotel Asolo Via Castellana 9, 31011 Asolo +390423952963 [email protected] www.hotel-asolo.com *** The Hotel Asolo offers various rooms by type, all elegantly furnished with colors and solutions designed to make every room a small autonomous universe. Thirty-two rooms with private bathroom, hairdryer, wi-fi, mini bar, safe, LCD TV, private telephone. The hotel Asolo has a geothermal system which makes it an environmentally friendly structure. 54 Accomodations Farmhouse/Housing units Al Morer Via Risorgimento 10, 31011 Asolo +39042355060 [email protected] www.almorer.it “AL MORER” appears as the ideal place for a happy break: surrounded by a landscape that allows the space on the plain of Treviso and characterized by the presence of trees Mulberry, has kept with the recent restoration works, the original architectural features. holiday house Villa Flangini Via Foresto di Pagnano 2, 31011 Asolo +39042355622 [email protected] http://www.villaflangini.it Congress, conferences, holidays, climatic stays for individuals, groups, families, and in religious structure. 55 Outside the city walls Housing units Casa Pietro Bembo Via Santa Caterina 23, 31011 Asolo +39335207028 [email protected] Toffolo Bruno Via Marconi 137, 31011 Asolo +390423952748 Accomodations Ca’ Cinel Via Mestre 9, 31011 Asolo +390423952401, +393355449091 [email protected] www.cacinel.it/www.Cacinel.it/Home_it.html At the foot of the hills of Asolo, circndata by 25 acres of countryside, Ca ‘Cinel is a true example of a 1600 building that preserves the original structure. AFFITTACAMERE DI 3^ CAT. “APPARTAMENTO BELTRAMINI” Asolo - Via Contrada Canova 330/b Tel. 0423 529045 [email protected] Bed & Breakfast Al Lauro Via Lauro 4, 31011 Villa d’Asolo +390423564440, +393337551696 [email protected] www.beballauro.com/IT/index.html The B & B is set in the Veneto countryside. On the ground floor is the breakfast room with TV and minibar. Upstairs there are three bedrooms with bathroom. Casasolana Via Sottocastello 18, 31011 Asolo +39042355754 [email protected] www.casasolana.it Casasolana is located in a hilly area along the scenic route that leads to the Castle of Queen Cornaro, just 800 m from the city center. It is a typical Venetian farmhouse of the nineteenth century, surrounded by a beautiful park of 7000 square meters., Recently reno56 57 Outside the city walls Accomodations vated with simple but refined taste. The three rooms available for guests, all with own facilities, are each dedicated to a female character who was a major influence in the history of Asolo if: Caterina Cornaro, Eleonora Duse, Freya Stark. On the ground floor, surrounded by large windows, there is a common room where breakfast is served. Casa Pagnano Via Vallorgana 22, 31011 Pagnano +390423529276, +393293932570 [email protected] www.casapagnano.com Casa Pagnano (Pagnano House) is surrounded by Asolo hills green and beauty and it dates back to 1400. Pencil and watercolour drawthe building cadastral map, an Eighteenth Century rare and precious document, today kept in Asolo Historical Archives. It is ideal for those who aim at spending a peaceful and relaxing holiday, the B&B has two elegant bedroomswith independent entrance, including private facilities, TV and air-conditioning. They have been recently restored and furnished in a warm and cosy style, the rooms have a small equipped kitchen for breakfast. Do’ None Via Calò 26, 31011 Pagnano +39042355682, +393296370479 www.donone.it 58 “DO ‘NONE” is located in Asolo, a few kilometers from the Palladian Villas Canova Plaster Casts Gallery and Museum. Two studios with double bed and sofa bed, bathroom and kitchen, satellite TV and free WiFi. air conditioning Europa di Toffolo Bruno Via Vallorgana 6, 31011 Pagnano +390423529254 Bed & Breakfast di Gallina Tommaso Via S. Colomba 4, 31011 Asolo +393496086346, +393284230962 [email protected] Larry’s House Via Marco Ricci 1/B, 31011 Casella d’Asolo +393209365948 [email protected] “Larry’s House” is located at the foot of Asolo in 5 minutes from the city center. The structure offer an independent apartment with sloping ceilings with exposed beams, living room kitchen, bathroom with shower and heated towel rail, double bedroom and possible bedroom with two single beds. The apartment has a washing machine and outdoor parking. 59 Outside the city walls Le Gemelle Via Bernardi 8, 31011 Pagnano +390423950819, +393406601349 Pleris Via Bernardi 26, 31011 Pagnano +390423952181 [email protected] www.bedandbreakfast-pleris.it From the garden, a splendid vista over the hills and the town of Asolo “Perla della Marca Trevigiana”, will capture one’s eyes. The town of Asolo is easily reached also by way of trails suitable both for hiking and bicycle riding. The kitchen, spacious and comfortable, is ready to offer delicious breakfast in a relaxing atmosphere. The rooms are confortable, the furniture harmoniousely matches the ambience. Each room has a television. On the first floor there’s a single/double room with private bathroom. On the second floor, a double room and a single one share the same bathroom. The double has a rich library. Peace and quiet are interrupted only by the twittering of birds as the vehicular transit in the “Borgo” is restricted to residents. Accomodations Villa Vega Via Foresto di Pagnano 3, 31011 Asolo +39042355026, +393475436622 [email protected] www.villavega.it The hills of Asolo, city of a hundred horizons, full of houses and magnificent villas, set among the green nature, dominate the fertile plain underneath. Villa Vega, a beautiful building in the liberty style of the end of the 1800s, looks on to the south-west face of a hill. The area is rich in sun and wonderful landscape, including the silent “Monte Grappa” and its long history. Barone d’Asolo Country House Via Gasparona 11, 31011 Pagnano +390423529005 [email protected] www.baroneasolo.it 60 61 Eat & Drink Outside the city walls Old Town Immersed in a beautiful park, a lake of water lilies and lotus flowers, paths through woods and orchards, the country House Barone d’Asolo will welcome you with its distinctive peace and tranquillity and become the perfect place for your relaxing stay. RESTAURANTS Al Bacaro Restaurant/Tavern Via Robert Browning 165, 31011 Asolo +39042355150 € ASOLO BED AND BREAKFAST Asolo - Via Risorgimento 4 cell 345 4870191 - 334 7667921 fax 0423 952029 [email protected] www.bedandbreakfastasolo.it Asolo’s centenarian tavern (but the first host was from Puglia) with a cuisine dedicated to traditional Veneto’s and local recipies. Specialities: meat, Veneto’s specialities, pot pie, nerves, snails, Vicenza’s saled codfish, tripes. Everage price (drinks excluded): 25€. Closed on Wednesday. Bristot Restaurant Via P. Bembo 85, 31011 Asolo +390423529592 [email protected] www.ristorantebistrotasolo.com €€ 62 63 Eat & Drink Old Town Summer terrace. Creative cuisine with seafood and meat specialities. Asparagus and mushrooms, chicory, herbs, pâté, bread and olive oil from Asolo’s hills. Fish and crustaceans, raw, carpaccio and a good wine list, local desserts. Open during the evening from 18:00. Everageprice (drinks excluded): 30-40€. Closed on Sunday. Cornaro Restaurant/Pizzeria Via Regina Cornaro 214, 31011 Asolo +390423950361 € Via Canova 288, 31011 Asolo +39042355288 https://www.facebook.com/pages/Gala-Asolo/455369967860646 € In the centre of Asolo, this restaurant is furnished with care and good taste. Vast choice of Veneto’s typical wines and traditional cuisine. Hostaria Ca’ Derton Restaurant/Tavern Piazza G. D’annunzio 11, 31011 Asolo +39042355218 [email protected] €€ If you feel like tasting a really good Neapolitan pizza, the best thing to do is visit the Cornaro Pizzeria. Excellent pice/quality ratio and stainless service. Gala di Susanna Quagliotto Restaurant/Wine Bar 64 Cosy restaurant that offers the traditional Veneto’s cuisine with a hint of innovation and creativity. Traditional tasting menu: 35€. Good wine list. The attached wine shop offers the same cuisine in an informal atmosphere and with cheaper prices. Closed on Wednesday. Everage price (drinks excluded): 45€. 65 Eat & Drink Old Town Hotel Villa Cipriani Restaurant Via Canova 298, 31011 Asolo +390423523411 [email protected] www.villacipriani.it €€€€ products, such as “morlacco” cheese, are from the owner’s farm. La Terrazza - presso albergo Al Sole Restaurant Via Collegio 33, 31011 Asolo +390423951332 [email protected] www.albergoalsole.com €€€€ This restaurant, which achieved prestigious rewards, is part of the hotel of the same name and offers Veneto’s regional specialities transforming them with Mediterranean and international cuisine. The menu is seasonale and and the daily list varies according to the availability of the local products. There’s a breathtaking view on Asolo’s valley. La Corte del Re Restaurant/Tavern Via Dante 24, 31011 Asolo € This small tavern is situated in Asolo’s main square. The area for the outdoor lunch is near the main car park ( near the great palace). The tavern offers many local specialities, such as porchetta and cold cuts and interesting beers wines and grappa. Many 66 Al Sole hotel’s terrace, meeting place of the international clientela, is a real outdoor sitting room that overlooks Asolo’s historical center. Innovative cuisine, which at the same time is able to enhance the traditional product, that are accurately selected. The menu is made with high quality raw products, from fresh seafood to meat, to vegetarian dishes. The chef is Enrico Villanova. 67 Eat & Drink Old Town Pane, Vino e San Daniele Restaurant Via Browning 183, 31011 Asolo +390423951375 € Very good quality of the food and nice atmosphere. Homemade first courses, cold cuts, San Daniele’s ham, Friuli’s specialities, salads, Friuli’s wines. Homemade cuisine. Everage price (drinks excluded): 1520€. Closed on Tuesday and on Thursday evening. TappoBar Bar/Restaurant Via Roma 55, 31011 Asolo +390423952201 [email protected] www.tappobar.it €€ Beer house/Sandwich bar Epoca Beer house/Sandwich bar Via Roma 50, 31011 Asolo +390423950100 € Typical and welcoming sandwich bar. Kind and courteous staff. Fast food (hamburgers) but also more demanding dishes (spaghetti with ragù). PASTICCERIE / GELATERIE Gelateria Browning Via Browning 159, 31011 Asolo +300423951375 Ice-cream parlour appreciated by tourists and citizens. Restaurant in the town’s centre, divided into two rooms, one for the café and the other for the restaurant. The rooms are nice and well-finished. 68 69 Eat & Drink Old Town BAR / CAFÈ Al Castello Piazza Duse 227, 31011 Asolo +390423952158 Caffè Commercio Via R. Cornaro 210, 31011 Asolo +390423952290 Located in the historical center, the “Caffè Commercio” is open from 7.00 am to 01.00am. It offers breakfast, small plates and quick meals. Great selection of beers and prosecco by glass. Closed on Mondays. Al Municipio Piazza G. D’Annunzio 8, 31011 Asolo Caffè Centrale Via Roma 72, 31011 Asolo +390423952141 [email protected] www.caffecentrale.com The Cafè is located in the center of Asolo. It’s well furnished, clean and it offers drinks, cocktails and homemade ice cream. 70 Winebar Enoteca alle Ore Via Browning 186, 31011 Asolo Elegant restaurant, well-finished in every detail... very good treatment. Excellent for an aperitif. 71 Outside the city walls RESTAURANTS Al Bersagliere Restaurant/Tavern Via San Martino 31, 31011 Asolo +390423952744 € Old tavern founded in the late 19th century by Giovan Battista Stona, Bersagliere during the First World War. Nowadays the tavern is run by his granddaughter Marisa with her husband Gianni. Welcoming atmosphere (both in the Summer and in the Winter) that offers simple cold cuts, local cheese and local wine. Everage rice (drinks excluded): 25€. Al Via Lauro Restaurant/Pizzeria Via Lauro 23, 31011 Asolo +390423564112 € You can taste different types of dishes and it is also a pizzeria, Closed on Tuesday and Wednesday morning. Da Vanore Restaurant/Tavern Piazza G. D’annunzio 5, 31011 Asolo +390423952279 €€ 72 Eat & Drink Picturesque place surrounded by green, cosy and wecoming, nice and simple people, very good chargrilled, rustic and savory cuisine. There are ofter musicians on Friday evening. Good wine collection with more than 150 types of wine. Everage price (drinks excluded): 35-40€. Closed on Monday. Ferro e Fuoco Restaurant/Pizzeria Via Ponte di Pagnano 1, 31011 Asolo +393398035597 € Pizzeria Ferro e Fuoco welcomes you with warmth and sympathy. At lunchtime it also offers dishes as a restaurant. It has a Summer dehors. La Tavernetta Restaurant/Tavern Via Schiavonesca Marosticana 45, 31011 Asolo +390423952273 http://www.ristorantelatavernettatv.com €€ Typical and welcoming restaurant near the historical centre. The cuisine joins traditional products and creativity, from the first course with homemade pasta to grilled specialities and Veneto’s traditional’s dishes. Homemade desserts. 73 Outside the city walls La Trave Restaurant Via Contrada Bernardi 15, 31011 Asolo +390423952256 € Old and rustic trattoria with local and seasonal specialities (spring herbs, mushrooms, risotto, “sopa coada”, snails, salted codfish). Everage price (drinks excluded): 28/30€. Closed on Monday. Locanda Baggio Restaurant/Inn Via Bassane 1, 31011 Asolo +390423529648 www.locandabaggio.it €€€ Intimate and cosy restaurant, characterised by the typical and traditional cuisine. Very good wine collection with a selection of local, national and international wines. Everage price (drinks excluded): 40/50€. Closing: Monday and Tuesday at lunchtime. Mexican Grill Restaurant Via Croce d’Oro 1, 31011 Asolo +390423564075 € 74 Eat & Drink Esotic atmosphere and cuisine for this restaurant where it’s possible to taste Mexican’s traditional cuisine. Momà Restaurant/Disco Via E. Fermi 32, 31011 Asolo +390423952467 [email protected] http://www.moma-asolo.it € The exclusivity and the taste for life are the distinctive characteristics of the MoMA’. We’re in Asolo, but we could be in Paris, NYC, Barcelona, London. The restaurant has an international and cosmopolitan soul. Closed on Tuesday and on Saturday at lunchtime. Osteria di Via Tuna Restaurant/Tavern/Pizzeria Via Tuna 2, 31011 Asolo +390423952310 [email protected] www.osteriaviatuna.it € 75 Outside the city walls Eat & Drink For the admirers of Friuli’s cuisine, who, in Asolo, don’t want to give up on the typical Veneto’s dishes, there’s trattoria Ciarnie. Venetian’s liver, “pèasta e fasioi” (pasta with beans), hare with sauce, roast with cornmeal mush and cheese. Everage price (drinks excluded): 25/30€. closed on Monday even ing and on Tuesday. Tavern, pizzeria and restaurant that offers the typical local cuisine, revised with simplicity and innovation. Wine list that has a special consideration for Asolo’s wines. It’s also a water shop with a vast choice of types of water from all over the world. Everage price (drinks excluded): 15-30€. Closed on Tuesday evening. Ponte Peron Restaurant/Trattoria Via Vallorgana 14, 31011 Asolo +390423952268 [email protected] http://www.ponteperon.it/www1/ €€ Trattoria Ponte Peron, founded in 1950, situated in the Asolo’s hills near the town of the 100 horizons, takes its name from the bridge that crossed the creek of the same name. The atmosphere of these place and the family-run business are the perfect frame for the typical cuisine. Homemade pasta, char-grilled meat, mushrooms and homemade desserts. Everage price (drinks excluded): 30/35€. Closed on Tuesday evening and on Wednesday. Villa Flangini Restaurant Via Foresto di Pagnano 2, 31011 Asolo +39042355622 [email protected] http://www.villaflangini.it €€ Villa Flanfini is a historical aristocratic dwelling, from the 18th century, situated 500 metres far from Asolo’s historical centre, surrounded by a big park and a wood crossed by several paths where you can have a walk. The villa has two main rooms: the dining room that can contain up to 70 people and the fireplace room which can receive more than 100 guests. Villa Razzolini Loredan Restaurant Via Schiavonesca Marosticana 11, 31011 Asolo +390423951088 http://www.villarazzolini.it €€€ Trattoria Ciarnie i di Canciani Daniele Restaurant/Trattoria Via dei Torretto 2, 31011 Asolo +390423952237 [email protected] www.trattoriaciarniei.com € 76 77 Eat & Drink Outside the city walls At the foot of Asolo’s rocca, surrounded by a big park, the majestic Veneto’s villa of the 17th century, hosts a restaurant. The refined cuisine respects the territory with offers of seasonal products. The seasonal menu enhances the products with “bisi de Borso”, seasonal mushrooms, white asparagus, Grappa’s typical cheese, artichokes. During the Winter there are recipies made with Bassano’s broccoli and Treviso’s and Castelfranco’s chicory. Seafood cuisine at every time of the year. Everage price (drinks excluded): 25-55€. PIZZERIE Ai quattro gatti Pizzeria Via Giorgione 2, 31011 Asolo +390423951108 [email protected] http://www.pizzeriaaiquattrogatti.com € Pizzeria Rock Pizzeria Via Tuna 19, 31011 Asolo +390423951041 € PizzeriaPizza Rock is a pizzeria with a very good staff, proud to offer their own products. Farmhouse Agriturismo da Gino Farmhouse Via Loreggia 22, 31011 Asolo +390423529467 http://www.agriturismodagino.it € The owner Gino, helped by his wife and sons, restored an old stable and a barn to obtain a rustic and welcoming restaurant where you can enjoy the traditional local dishes. Everage price (drinks excluded): 25€. Open on Thursday night only only with booking, on Friday evening, Saturday evening, Sunday and holidays. Pizzeria and restaurant Ai 4 Gatti, run by Cristiana adn Fabio, in Casekka d’Asolo, near Treviso, offers pizza with take-away service, first courses, aperitives. Pizzas are made using first rate ingredients. Conditioned rooms, summer garden and car park. 78 79 Outside the city walls Pastisseries / GELATERIE Asolo Dolce s.a.s. Via E. Fermi 21, 31011 Asolo +3904235221, +390423522111 AsoloDolce. 25 years of business for this pastry shop specialized in puff pastry. Quality lunch and aperitives. Eat & Drink Cappelletto Franco Via Dante 24, 31011 Asolo Centro Bar Via Chiesa 6, 31011 Asolo +390423952321 Coffeehouse Via Schiavonesca Marosticana 8, 31011 Asolo Cafè, ice-cream parlour, food service. Country Pub s.a.s. Via G. Verdi 4, 31011 Asolo Dissegna Manuela Via D’Annunzio 8, 31011 Asolo +390423529462 Il Gelato s.n.c. Via Schiavonesca Marosticana 6, 31011 Asolo +390423950203 Ice creams and specialities. BAR / CAFÈ Bar Jolly Via Cavin dei Cavai 47A, 31011 Asolo +39042355840 Bar Posta Via Tiziano 35, 31011 Asolo Hollywood Bar Via E. Fermi 14, 31011 Asolo Papagayo s.n.c. Via Bassanese 13, 31011 Asolo Rossetto Maria Via Giorgione 58, 31011 Asolo Barracuda Bar/Cafè/Music Bar Via Cavin dei Cavai 47, 31011 Asolo Barracuda. At the foot of Asolo’s hills, a new sensational vintage cafè with a rock soul where you can find beer and very good wine. 80 81 Eat & Drink Food and Wine The flavours of local produce, the flavour of fine food, the workshops of the craftspeople who together with taverns and cafes face onto arcades and squares are part of the inviting climate that one perceives walking through the streets of the village. It is the leisurely rhythm of living as an “Asolan”. Perhaps the atmosphere of Asolo would not be the same if you could not stop off at a wine bar or without the aromas and pleasures of the table coming from fine food and wine of ancient tradition. Restaurants and trattorias, like everything in Asolo, are in great demand. Here you can savour dishes from a simple, wholesome culinary tradition, linked to the changing of the seasons and the influence of Venice: from “sarde in saor” sauce to “bigoli in salsa”, mushroom soup, pasta and beans, Treviso or Castelfranco radicchio (a kind of red lettuce), pumpkin and white asparagus from Bassano. One can try the typical “cicchetti”, fine wines or fanciful specialities such as ice-cream in elderberry-based liqueur or “Tintoretto”, a variant of the Bellini cocktail with the flavour of pomegranate. When you are seated at the little tables of the cafes, it is not hard to imagine the famous personalities who have stayed in 82 83 Eat & Drink the city over the last two centuries from poets or musicians, such as Robert Browning or Gian Francesco Malipiero to celebrities like Marcello Mastroianni and Catherine Deneuve, or Yoko Ono to name but a few. In Asolo it is still possible to find wood baked bread and in the speciality boutiques you are spoilt for choice in front of the dazzling array of local salami and cold cooked meats, wines, grappas, oils, jams and delicious sweets. The typical produce of this area can be defined as niche products impossible to find elsewhere; they are distinguished by the care taken over organic cultivation to preserve ancient traditions and particular local production such as pearl white corn, cheeses such as Morlacco and Bastardo, the Biso (pea) of Borso del Grappa, dwarf beans of Levada, the Monfumo apples, oil production in the foothills of Mount Grappa that has its northern most appendix in the region, Maser cherries and Grappa honey. Vigorous reds and important whites such as Merlot, Cabernet, Prosecco, Chardonnay, Pinot, Incrocio Manzoni are the first class wines of the area that are served on Asolan tables or that can be sampled in the wine bars. Asolo is an important centre for “Montello e Colli Asolani” doc production, and the best local selections have also won many awards. Part of the national circuit of Città Del Vino (Wine Cities), every year in August with the “Calici di Stelle” (Wineglasses under the stars), as in other Italian cities the best wines of the territory and typical local produce are celebrated with tastings. The wine area The climate of the area of DOC Montello - Asolo Hills is typical of the temperate area, the result of the original integration between factors such as latitude, proximity to the Mediterranean and local climate factors that act as modulators. The progression of the hills must be pointed out among these, which generate a wide range of effects due to exposure, to sunshine 84 and daytime heating of the slopes; to the nocturnal accumulation of cold air, especially close to the slopes of Monte Grappa, and the effects of breeze regimes coming from the Po Valley and the Piave Valley. It is characterized by hot but not muggy summers, and relatively cold winters, while the rainfall is spread fairly evenly throughout the year. It covers an area of approximately 20.000 hectares, mostly hilly, but which also includes large portions of flat land joined to the hills. The area of Valcavasia highlights the characteristics of the pre-alpine slopes. Within the hilly environment there are marl limestones, marls, argillites, siltstones, sandstones and conglomerates formed in the Tertiary alternate and are greatly deformed by tectonic movements. The lithological alternation also finds an immediate visual comparison in the form of elevations. More compact structures have created a steeper and more rugged landscape (Asolo Hills) while more malleable substrates (marl and clay) have generated over time gentler shapes in correspondence to Montello. The area of Montello, with its flattened shape, the result of an original and unique evolutionary framework, shows the presence of terraces and karst phenomena. Here the typical Bordolesi and Renane varieties, fol85 Eat & Drink lowing the Napoleonic domination took root, giving great qualitative returns: Merlot, Cabernet and the various types of Pinot and Chardonnay are very widespread DOC wines. Alongside these Glera for the production of Prosecco is certainly the most extensive vine variety and is the largest generator of revenue for the wine industry. It is also very important to remember the recovery operation in progress of the Recantina vine and, subordinately the Bianchetta vine Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG and Montello Superiore DOCG are situated at the top for quality production. These are only some of the products of this corner of Veneto, full of history and tradition that boasts wines that are at the top of the most important international competitions. DOCG Colli Asolani – Prosecco “Spumante Superiore” Colour: golden yellow, sparkly. Effervescence: fine and persistent. Bouquet: pleasant and characteristically fruity. Taste: dry or sweet, bodied, pleasantly fruity, characteristic. Prosecco Asolo Asolo Prosecco DOCG Colour: straw yellow, more or less intense. Bouquet: vinous, characteristic, slightly fruity in the medium-sweet type. Taste: pleasantly slightly bitter dry and light bodied, slightly fruity medium-sweet. DOCG Colli Asolani – Prosecco “sparkling” Colour: straw yellow more or less intense, sparkly. Effervescence: evident forming of bubbles. In the type with re-fermentation in the bottle, the foam is mild and evanescent. Bouquet: pleasant and characteristically fruity. In the type with re-fermentation in the bottle hints of bread crust and yeast are added. Taste: dry or sweet, fresh, sparkling and fruity. In the type with re-fermentation in the bottle hints of bread crust and yeast are added. 86 87 Itineraries The first steps of the walk in the town of Asolo must have the monument, the symbol of the square, as the starting point: so we will start from the centre of the old town centre, from the Fontana Maggiore (8). Until a few years ago still powered by the ancient Roman aqueduct, the fountain has always been a meeting point in the daily lives of the people of Asolo and reminder of the history of the town: the central part has its origin in a column of who knows which majestic palace of the ancient Roman municipium of Aceleum and the lion of St. Mark, which, sitting as a sign of peace, protects the coat of arms of Asolo, is a reconstruction of the 1800 work of Antonio del Zotto to reintegrate the original one destroyed in 1797 on the arrival of the French troops of Napoleon. This date, 1797, put an end to the Podesteria (admin- 88 89 ITINERARY 1 Asolo, love at first sight Short itinerary (1.5 – 2 hours) Fontana Maggiore (8), Cathedral (5), Cappella del Cristo, Civic Museum (7), Palazzo della Ragione (6), Castle (16), Duse Theatre (17), Villa Contarini said of the Armenians (23), Palazzo Beltramini (18), Porta di Santo Spirito, the Duse house (19), Gothic House (15), Piazza Brugnoli (12), Villa Pasini Scotti (14), Rocca (10), Bot (13) Itineraries istrative organization) of Asolo, cutting the umbilical cord that had tied the town for more than four hundred years, since 1388, to the Republic of Venice. This detachment was unbearable for many Asolans and they organized a plan down to the minimum detail to make an attempt on the life of Napoleon, exactly in the old café that is still present at the side of the fountain today named Caffè Centrale. The subversive action was never put into practice because informers reported the assailants that were soon imprisoned, convicted and executed. But let’s go back to the fountain and follow the gaze of the lion to start to asolare through the streets of the centre. We turn down via Robert Browning, English poet of the late nineteenth century, who with the term “asolando” wanted to describe the habit which he also had of walking aimlessly with equanimity, taking in the beauty of the town. We will resist the temptation to carry on to the end of the road, protected by arcades, and cross over the road to walk along the side of the Cathedral (5). If we just turn toward the arcades we can admire the wonderful facades of the Cesana, Polo and Martinelli palaces, whose frescoes are now just a pale impression. On the base of one of the pillars, a plaque recalls the terrible Santa Costanza earthquake that devastated the Asolan territory on 25 February in 1695. We carry on and immediately find on our left the entrance to a minute chapel, called the Cappella del Cristo, a place of intimate devotion for the people of Asola. Here an eighteenth century wooden crucifix of strong emotional impact is preserved, a work by Giuseppe Bernardi known as Torretto, the first teacher of Antonio Canova. Right in front we can enter into the Cathedral by the ancient fifteenth century porch that has an Agnus Dei medallion, perhaps in memory of bishop Agnello, who in the late sixth century administered the Diocese of Asolo, then dismissed in969 even if today Asolo has a bishop, only in a titular manner. The Cathedral, dedicated to St Mary of the Assumption, preserves works of great historical and artistic importance such as the altar pieces of Lorenzo Lotto and Jacopo da Ponte in the left aisle or the sixteenth century baptismal font in the Cappella del Santissimo in the right aisle, a gift from Caterina Cornaro to the town. Coming out of the main entrances the building which stands in front of us was once the Bishop’s Palace and now houses the sections of the Civic Museum (7), a place that room after room revives the centuries-old history of Asolo from archaeological findings to exquisite paintings, to the memory of the women that made the name of the town international: Caterina Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus, Armenia and Jerusalem, the Divine Eleonora Duse and the eccentric English traveller Freya Stark. The Museum can be reached by going up the short stairway that leads to Piazza Garibaldi. On the corner is IAT (Tourist Information Office) where we can find material to find out more about Asolo and all the area. Coming out of the office we find the Palazzo della Ragione on the left (6), place of public administration during the Venetian Podesteria, recognizable also from a distance for the large fresco of the Defeat of Crassus against the Parthians. The building is divided with the Sala della Ragione upstairs where a precious marble of Canova is preserved representing Paris and a Canovian school cenotaph, besides the frame frescoed with all the crests of the Podesta surrounding the one of Caterina Cornaro; downstairs the Loggia del Capitano opens out, part of it covering the piazza of Asolo to protect the citizens from the sun and bad weather and that has commemorative stones, frescoes, memories of ancient buildings and places of Asolo, abandoned or destroyed over the centuries, among which to tombstones with Hebrew writing from the ancient cemetery of the Jewish community. Going up along Via Cornaro we get closer to the rock spur that supports the castle but let’s first enjoy the few steps, looking up and admiring the surviving traces of frescoes on the facades and near the end of the road we recognize the rayed holy wafer, symbol of the 90 91 Itineraries Blessed Bernardino da Feltre, founder of the Monte di Pieta of Asolo. After the short climb, we take the cobblestone road that goes up to the left and we enter through the big main door into the area of the Castle of Caterina Cornaro (16). Inside the building, evidently modified during the last century is the Duse Theatre (17), which was once the throne and reception room. Walking in the outdoor area from a small terrace under the archway of the medieval walls that protect the Castle the roofs of Asolo can be admired, which really resemble Venice; climbing the steep steps of the Reata Tower, the observation point for the Queen’s guards and prison for her enemies, other beautiful views of the city of a hundred horizons can be seen, just as they can from the short scenic walk that looks toward the south or from the Belvedere della Specola (observatory viewpoint) to the north which offers the eye a view over the palaces that wind along Via Santa Caterina and in the distance gives the best view of the massif of Monte Grappa. On the hill to the left rise the outlines of the fresco of Villa Contarini said of the Armenians (23) and the particular cupola of the oratory. We continue our walk and at the end of the cobblestone road of the Castle we are facing Piazza D’Annunzio, once used as a seed market. The building with massive white columns is Palazzo Beltramini (18), the Town Hall, refined by Giorgio Massari in the eighteenth century with a strange asymmetrical cut of the facade to make the perspective of the square larger than it is. Above an arch of the palace in front of us there is still a plaque of the Monte di Pietà, established at the end of the fifteenth century to compete against the moneylending business of the Jewish families, who had their homes along Via Belvedere and in Contrada Canova, exactly to the north and east of where we are now. On the facade of the palace, north of the square and at the intersection of four balconies the faded image of the face of the Duce, covered by a helmet brings back less glorious moments in the history of Asolo and of Italy. We go down along the silent Via Canova as far as the Porta di Santo Spirito or Santa Caterina (Gate of Holy Spirit or of St. Catherine), fourteenth century access to the town walls. Casa Duse (19) the two-tone red and white building that is against the arch and on which a commemorative stone was affixed, written by Gabriele D’Annunzio, that recalls when the “Divine” lived in Asolo. The room in which Eleonora Duse used to live is the room just above the arch. We go back up Via Canova passing under the arcades on whose beams swallows generally nest to give birth to their little ones that will then leave in the autumn. Along the road we can also see one of the most prestigious handicraft products of Asolo: the School of Ancient Embroidery, which, with its refined products, has decorated the homes of noble Italian and foreign families. Leaving Piazza D’Annunzio on the right we go straight along Via Dante, that just at the beginning of it on the left, has the ancient sixteenth century gate of the Colbertaldo family residence. At the end of the road we look up to the right to the old Gothic House (15) where a striking Venetian gothic three-mullioned-window has alchemical symbols in the capitals of the columns, part of the mystical atmosphere of the town. Let’s stop in the shade of the horse chestnut trees in Piazza Brugnoli (12) to admire the wonderful Villa Scotti Pasini (14) dominated on the summit of Monte Ricco by one of the faces of the Rocca (10). We go down along Via Roma, imagining the splendour of the Roman baths whose remains lie beneath the porphyry surface of Piazza Brugnoli and whose waters were provided by natural springs of the hills channelled into the Bot (13). In front of us we can see once again the Fontana Maggiore, the departure and arrival point of our itinerary. 92 93 Itineraries ITINERARY 2 In the embrace of the walls of Asolo Half-day itinerary (3 hours) Fontana Maggiore (8), Walls (9), Dieda Tower, VillaPalazzo Fietta – Serena, Villa Freya (4), Portello di Castelfranco, La Mura house, Fontanella Zen (3), Cathedral (5), Cappella del Cristo, Civic Museum (7), Palazzo della Ragione (6), Castle (16), Duse Theatre (17), Villa degli Armeni (23), Palazzo Beltramini (18), Porta di Santo Spirito, The Duse house (19), Gothic House (15), Porta del Colmarion, Monastery of Saints Peter and Paul (11), Villa Scotti Pasini (14), Piazza Brugnoli (12), Rocca (10), Bot (13). The first steps of the walk in the town of Asolo must have the monument, the symbol of the square, as the starting point: so we will start from the centre of the old town centre, from the Fontana Maggiore (8). Until a few years ago still powered by the ancient Roman aqueduct, the fountain has always been a meeting point in the daily lives of the people of Asolo and reminder of the history of the town: the central part has its origin in a column of who knows which majestic palace of the ancient Roman municipium of Aceleum and the lion of St. Mark, which, sitting as a sign of peace, protects the coat of arms of Asolo, is a reconstruction of the 1800 work of Antonio del Zotto to reintegrate the original one destroyed in 1797 on the arrival of the French troops of Napoleon. This date, 1797, put an end to the Podesteria (administrative organization) of Asolo, cutting the umbilical cord that had tied the town for more than four hundred years, since 1388, to the Republic of Venice. This detachment was unbearable for many Asolans and they organized a plan down to the minimum detail to make an attempt on the life of Napoleon, exactly in the old café that is still present at the side of the 94 fountain today named Caffè Centrale. The subversive action was never put into practice because informers reported the assailants that were soon imprisoned, convicted and executed. But let’s go back to the fountain and follow the gaze of the lion to start to asolare through the streets of the centre. We take the steep ascent of Via Bembo, named after the cardinal who composed, between the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, Gli Asolani, dialogues about love set in the Asolan court of Caterina Cornaro. The route of the picturesque little road follows the medieval town walls (9) of Asolo for a stretch; here the recent restorations of the walls allow us to recognize the points were boards were inserted to support the bretèches, or the wooden walkways that ran along the walls. On the left we pass by the tower-house of Sant’Andrea, for centuries a strategic lookout over the accesses from the south and west, and then we go down the stairs that lead us to the point where until the end of the nineteenth century was the main entrance to the city: Dieda Tower, fatal place of imprisonment of the Blessed Arnaldo da Limena who, in the mid thirteenth century dared to oppose the tyranny of Ezzelino da Romano. Via Marconi begins here and encloses the eighteenth century Villa Fietta Serena in the corner of the curve, an admirable Asolan work by the Venetian Giorgio Massari. Continuing under the arcades on the left side of the road we finally find the main entrance of Villa Freya (4), Asolan home of the English explorer and writer Freya Stark; in the lush garden of the villa, in opening hours or on reservation, it is possible to admire the remains of the Roman theatre of Asolo (I century A.D.). Beyond the gate of Villa Freya, the short descent to the left leads us to the Portello di Castelfranco, the most recent of the access gates to the walled town, opened toward the end of the fifteenth century to allow access into Asolo from the south. The ancient La Mura house is built into the wall here, where at the end of the nineteenth century, the poet Robert Browning, cup of tea in his hand, 95 Itineraries wrote Asolando, from the verb asolare, that is, “have fun outdoors”. Close to La Mura, the sixteenth century Fontanella Zen (3) indeed marks the beginning of Via Browning, with its frescoes and shaded arcades that give shelter to taverns, small shops and stores, harbingers of irresistible scents and colours of the culinary and craft tradition. Going along the arcades looking upwards, we can come across fragments of ancient frescoes and, when the season is right, a multitude of lively and populous swallow nests. Before coming out into the main square let’s be tempted by curiosity and abandon Via Browning to cross the road and walk alongside the Cathedral (5). If we just turn toward the arcades we can admire the wonderful facades of the Cesana, Polo and Martinelli palaces, whose frescoes are now just a pale impression. On the base of one of the pillars, a plaque recalls the ter- rible Santa Costanza earthquake that devastated the Asolan territory on 25 February in 1695. We carry on and immediately find on our left the entrance to a minute chapel, called the Cappella del Cristo, a place of intimate devotion for the people of Asola. Here an eighteenth century wooden crucifix of strong emotional impact is preserved, a work by Giuseppe Bernardi known as Torretto, the first teacher of Antonio Canova. Right in front we can enter into the Cathedral by the ancient fifteenth century porch that has an Agnus Dei medallion, perhaps in memory of bishop Agnello, who in the late sixth century administered the Diocese of Asolo, then dismissed in969 even if today Asolo has a bishop, only in a titular manner. The Cathedral, dedicated to St Mary of the Assumption, preserves works of great historical and artistic importance such as the altar pieces of Lorenzo Lotto and Jacopo da Ponte in the left aisle or the sixteenth century baptismal font in the Cappella del Santissimo in the right aisle, a gift from Caterina Cornaro to the town. Coming out of the main entrances the building which stands in front of us was once the Bishop’s Palace and now houses the sections of the Civic Museum (7), a place that room after room revives the centuries-old history of Asolo from archaeological findings to exquisite paintings, to the memory of the women that made the name of the town international: Caterina Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus, Armenia and Jerusalem, the Divine Eleonora Duse and the eccentric English traveller Freya Stark. The Museum can be reached by going up the short stairway that leads to Piazza Garibaldi. On the corner is IAT (Tourist Information Office) where we can find material to find out more about Asolo and all the area. Coming out of the office we find the Palazzo della Ragione on the left (6), place of public administration during the Venetian Podesteria, recognizable also from a distance for the large fresco of the Defeat of Crassus against the Parthians. The building is divided with the Sala della Ragione upstairs where a precious marble of Canova 96 97 Itineraries is preserved representing Paris and a Canovian school cenotaph, besides the frame frescoed with all the crests of the Podesta surrounding the one of Caterina Cornaro; downstairs the Loggia del Capitano opens out, part of it covering the piazza of Asolo to protect the citizens from the sun and bad weather and that has commemorative stones, frescoes, memories of ancient buildings and places of Asolo, abandoned or destroyed over the centuries, among which to tombstones with Hebrew writing from the ancient cemetery of the Jewish community. Going up along Via Cornaro we get closer to the rock spur that supports the castle but let’s first enjoy the few steps, looking up and admiring the surviving traces of frescoes on the facades and near the end of the road we recognize the rayed holy wafer, symbol of the Blessed Bernardino da Feltre, founder of the Monte di Pieta of Asolo. After the short climb, we take the cobblestone road that goes up to the left and we enter through the big main door into the area of the Castle of Caterina Cornaro (16). Inside the building, evidently modified during the last century is the Duse Theatre (17), which was once the throne and reception room. Walking in the outdoor area from a small terrace under the archway of the medieval walls that protect the Castle the roofs of Asolo can be admired, which really resemble Venice; climbing the steep steps of the Reata Tower, the observation point for the Queen’s guards and prison for her enemies, other beautiful views of the city of a hundred horizons can be seen, just as they can from the short scenic walk that looks toward the south or from the Belvedere della Specola (observatory viewpoint) to the north which offers the eye a view over the palaces that wind along Via Santa Caterina and in the distance gives the best view of the massif of Monte Grappa. On the hill to the left rise the outlines of the fresco of Villa Contarini said of the Armenians (23) and the particular cupola of the oratory. We continue our walk and at the end of the cobblestone road of the Castle we are facing Piazza D’Annunzio, once used as a seed market. The building with massive white columns is Palazzo Beltramini (18), the Town Hall, refined by Giorgio Massari in the eighteenth century with a strange asymmetrical cut of the facade to make the perspective of the square larger than it is. Above an arch of the palace in front of us there is still a plaque of the Monte di Pietà, established at the end of the fifteenth century to compete against the moneylending business of the Jewish families, who had their homes along Via Belvedere and in Contrada Canova, exactly to the north and east of where we are now. On the facade of the palace, north of the square and at the intersection of four balconies the faded image of the face of the Duce, covered by a helmet brings back less glorious moments in the history of Asolo and of Italy. We go down along the silent Via Canova as far as the Porta di Santo Spirito or Santa Caterina (Gate of Holy Spirit or of St. Catherine), fourteenth century access to the town walls. Casa Duse (19) the two-tone red and white building that is against the arch and on which a commemorative stone was affixed, written by Gabriele D’Annunzio, that recalls when the “Divine” lived in Asolo. The room in which Eleonora Duse used to live is the room just above the arch. We go back up Via Canova passing under the arcades on whose beams swallows generally nest to give birth to their little ones that will then leave in the autumn. Along the road we can also see one of the most prestigious handicraft products of Asolo: the School of Ancient Embroidery, which, with its refined products, has decorated the homes of noble Italian and foreign families. Leaving Piazza D’Annunzio on the right we go straight along Via Dante, that just at the beginning of it on the left, has the ancient sixteenth century gate of the Colbertaldo family residence. At the end of the road we look up to the right to the old Gothic House (15) where a striking Venetian gothic three-mullioned-window has alchemical symbols 98 99 Itineraries in the capitals of the columns, part of the mystical atmosphere of the town. We leave behind the Gothic House to go along the ascent of Via Collegio that leads us to the historic hotel Albergo al Sole, refined place of hospitality and haven for illustrious guests that enlivened Asolo in in the twentieth century, where it is still possible to stay in the blue room with view over the centre of the town, which was occupied for a long time by the Divine Eleonora Duse. We continue to go up along Via Collegio, which runs along the left side of the hotel: at the end of the climb we find the Porta del Colmarion, which has maintained its medieval character more than the other gates; the grooves where the portcullis slid are still visible on the monument along with some elements of the consecutive closure with a hinged door. Going up a little on the right of the gate, we find the seventeenth century complex of the Monastery of Saints Peter and Paul (11), occupied until the early nineteenth century by the Benedictine monks, then the location of the council school, named after San Luigi by the population. We go down toward the central square along the stretch of Via Collegio that runs along the other side of the Albergo al Sole and which gives us a beautiful view of Villa Scotti Pasini (14) and its hanging garden. Going down the short stairway we reach the square and in the shade of the horse chestnut trees in Piazza Brugnoli (12) we can stop once more to admire the wonderful Villa Pasini, dominated on the summit of Monte Ricco by one of the faces of the Rocca (10). We go down along Via Roma, imagining the splendour of the Roman baths whose remains lie beneath the porphyry surface of Piazza Brugnoli and whose waters were provided by natural springs of the hills channelled into the Bot (13). In front of us we can see once again the Fontana Maggiore, the departure and arrival point of our itinerary. 100 101 Itineraries ITINERARY 3 Asolare for a whole day Long itinerary Fontana Maggiore (8), Cathedral (5), Cappella del Cristo, Civic Museum (7), Palazzo della Ragione (6), Castle (16), Duse Theatre (17), Villa Contarini said of the Armenians (23), Palazzo Beltramini (18), Porta di Santo Spirito, the Duse house (19), Hanseatic Houses (20), Church Santa Caterina d’Alessandria (21), Palazzo Pasquali, Villa De Mattia, Casa Longobarda (22), Oasis of Sant’Anna (24), Gothic House (15), Piazza Brugnoli (12), Villa Scotti Pasini (14), Bot (13), Porta del Colmarion, Monastery of Saints Peter and Paul (11), Town walls (9), Rocca (10), Church of San Gottardo (1), Casa Malipiero (2), Villa Freya (4), Portello di Castelfranco, La Mura house, Fontanella Zen (3). The first steps of the walk in the town of Asolo must have the monument, the symbol of the square, as the starting point: so we will start from the centre of the old town centre, from the Fontana Maggiore (8). Until a few years ago still powered by the ancient Roman aqueduct, the fountain has always been a meeting point in the daily lives of the people of Asolo and reminder of the history of the town: the central part has its origin in a column of who knows which majestic palace of the ancient Roman municipium of Aceleum and the lion of St. Mark, which, sitting as a sign of peace, protects the coat of arms of Asolo, is a reconstruction of the 1800 work of Antonio del Zotto to reintegrate the original one destroyed in 1797 on the arrival of the French troops of Napoleon. This date, 1797, put an end to the Podesteria (administrative organization) of Asolo, cutting the umbilical cord that had tied the town for more than four hundred years, since 1388, to the Republic of Venice. This detachment was unbearable for many Asolans and they 102 organized a plan down to the minimum detail to make an attempt on the life of Napoleon, exactly in the old café that is still present at the side of the fountain today named Caffè Centrale. The subversive action was never put into practice because informers reported the assailants that were soon imprisoned, convicted and executed. But let’s go back to the fountain and follow the gaze of the lion to start to asolare through the streets of the centre. We turn down via Robert Browning, English poet of the late nineteenth century, who with the term “asolando” wanted to describe the habit which he also had of walking aimlessly with equanimity, taking in the beauty of the town. We will resist the temptation to carry on to the end of the road, protected by arcades, and cross over the road to walk along the side of the Cathedral (5). If we just turn toward the arcades we can admire the wonderful facades of the Cesana, Polo and Martinelli palaces, whose frescoes are now just a pale impression. On the base of one of the pillars, a plaque recalls the terrible Santa Costanza earthquake that devastated the Asolan territory on 25 February in 1695. We carry on and immediately find on our left the entrance to a minute chapel, called the Cappella del Cristo, a place of intimate devotion for the people of Asola. Here an eighteenth century wooden crucifix of strong emotional impact is preserved, a work by Giuseppe Bernardi known as Torretto, the first teacher of Antonio Canova. Right in front we can enter into the Cathedral by the ancient fifteenth century porch that has an Agnus Dei medallion, perhaps in memory of bishop Agnello, who in the late sixth century administered the Diocese of Asolo, then dismissed in969 even if today Asolo has a bishop, only in a titular manner. The Cathedral, dedicated to St Mary of the Assumption, preserves works of great historical and artistic importance such as the altar pieces of Lorenzo Lotto and Jacopo da Ponte in the left aisle or the sixteenth century baptismal font in the Cappella del Santissimo in the right aisle, a gift from Caterina Cornaro to the town. Co103 Itineraries ming out of the main entrances the building which stands in front of us was once the Bishop’s Palace and now houses the sections of the Civic Museum (7), a place that room after room revives the centuries-old history of Asolo from archaeological findings to exquisite paintings, to the memory of the women that made the name of the town international: Caterina Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus, Armenia and Jerusalem, the Divine Eleonora Duse and the eccentric English traveller Freya Stark. The Museum can be reached by going up the short stairway that leads to Piazza Garibaldi. On the corner is IAT (Tourist Information Office) where we can find material to find out more about Asolo and all the area. Coming out of the office we find the Palazzo della Ragione on the left (6), place of public administration during the Venetian Podesteria, recognizable also from a distance for the large fresco of the Defeat of Crassus against the Parthians. The building is divided with the Sala della Ragione upstairs where a precious marble of Canova is preserved representing Paris and a Canovian school cenotaph, besides the frame frescoed with all the crests of the Podesta surrounding the one of Caterina Cornaro; downstairs the Loggia del Capitano opens out, part of it covering the piazza of Asolo to protect the citizens from the sun and bad weather and that has commemorative stones, frescoes, memories of ancient buildings and places of Asolo, abandoned or destroyed over the centuries, among which to tombstones with Hebrew writing from the ancient cemetery of the Jewish community. Going up along Via Cornaro we get closer to the rock spur that supports the castle but let’s first enjoy the few steps, looking up and admiring the surviving traces of frescoes on the facades and near the end of the road we recognize the rayed holy wafer, symbol of the Blessed Bernardino da Feltre, founder of the Monte di Pieta of Asolo. After the short climb, we take the cobblestone road that goes up to the left and we enter through the big main door into the area of the Castle of Caterina Cornaro (16). Inside the building, evidently modified during the last century is the Duse Theatre (17), which was once the throne and reception room. Walking in the outdoor area from a small terrace under the archway of the medieval walls that protect the Castle the roofs of Asolo can be admired, which really resemble Venice; climbing the steep steps of the Reata Tower, the observation point for the Queen’s guards and prison for her enemies, other beautiful views of the city of a hundred horizons can be seen, just as they can from the short scenic walk that looks toward the south or from the Belvedere della Specola (observatory viewpoint) to the north which offers the eye a view over the palaces that wind along Via Santa Caterina and in the distance gives the best view of the massif of Monte Grappa. On the hill to the left rise the outlines of the fresco of Villa Contarini said of the Armenians (23) and the particular cupola of the oratory. We continue our walk and at the end of the cobblestone road of the Castle we are facing Piazza D’Annunzio, once used as a seed market. The buil- 104 105 Itineraries ding with massive white columns is Palazzo Beltramini (18), the Town Hall, refined by Giorgio Massari in the eighteenth century with a strange asymmetrical cut of the facade to make the perspective of the square larger than it is. Above an arch of the palace in front of us there is still a plaque of the Monte di Pietà, established at the end of the fifteenth century to compete against the moneylending business of the Jewish families, who had their homes along Via Belvedere and in Contrada Canova, exactly to the north and east of where we are now. On the facade of the palace, north of the square and at the intersection of four balconies the faded image of the face of the Duce, covered by a helmet brings back less glorious moments in the history of Asolo and of Italy. We go down along the silent Via Canova as far as the Porta di Santo Spirito or Santa Caterina (Gate of Holy Spirit or of St. Catherine), fourteenth century access to the town walls. Casa Duse (19) the two-tone red and white building that is against the arch and on which a commemorative stone was affixed, written by Gabriele D’Annunzio, that recalls when the “Divine” lived in Asolo. The room in which Eleonora Duse used to live is the room just above the arch. This “little village of lace and poetry”, as praised by the Divine, shows an intriguing mystical side, beyond the Porta di Santa Caterina, by the image of the Saint who once decorated the capital, or Gate of the Holy Spirit, for the bas-relief dove that dominates the window of the room of the actress. Along the road that goes down outside the walls, after a curious glance at the splendid garden of the sixteenth century Villa Cipriani, period residence that for some time was the property of Lord Guinness and hosted the Queen Mother of England, the Greek tycoon Onassis and stars of music and the theatre, such as Maria Callas, Mastroianni and Catherine Deneuve, our attention will be captured by the vertical “Rembrandt’s Dream”, those Hanseatic Houses (20) of the artist Marius Pictor who wanted to experi- ment here, together with the “Casa dei Tre Oci” (house with three eyes) to the Giudecca of Venezia, his enigmatic pictorial architecture, in the case of Asolo, erected in honour of Holland. A little further on, the eccentricity of the Nordic homes, immortalized by the verses of his friend D’Annunzio, make the graceful simplicity of a home in characteristic Asolan style, adorned with the typical balcony and mullioned window of the lagoon city stand out. Once we turn the corner, the town of Santa Caterina welcomes us, fulcrum in the sixteenth century of the diffusion of heretical ideas from Northern Europe, hosting the fourteenth-century Church of Santa Caterina d’Alessandria (21), erected by the Confraternity of the Flagellants, and decorated inside with frescoes depicting the life of the saint, on the right wall, and the passion of Christ, on the left wall. Going out, protected by the mantle of Our Lady of Mercy on the facade of the old hospital, we continue our walk along the road, flanked on the left by the white Palazzo Pasquali, restored by Massari and where a commemorative stone recalls the arrival and brief stay in Asolo, of perhaps one night, of Napoleon. Our view suddenly widens pleasantly by the well maintained statues and plants of the Italian style monumental garden of the sixteenth century Villa De Mattia that elegantly reigns on the right of the road. From here, the view of the Villa Contarini said of the Armenians (23), embraced by the tall cypresses on Colle Messano, is really incredible and invites us to continue the walk to see it close up. It is inevitable, before going up Via S. Anna, to be struck by the unexpected tufa facade of Casa Longobarda (22), artistically “sculpted” house that belonged to Francesco Graziolo, considered by many to be the personal architect and sculptor of Caterina Cornaro, who wished to decorate it with particular scenes and symbolic elements. Taking the road that goes up to the crossroads, we go towards the Oasis of Sant’Anna (24), still the refuge of a few Capuchin friars. The cemetery houses the simple 106 107 Itineraries tombs of Eleonora Duse and Freya Stark, buried together with the English photographer friend Herbert Young, and allows us to admire Monte Grappa to the north, a mountain, sacred to the homeland, battle site during the First World War. We go back along the road towards the old town centre and go back up Via Canova passing under the arcades on whose beams swallows generally nest to give birth to their little ones that will then leave in the autumn. Along the road we can also see one of the most prestigious handicraft products of Asolo: the School of Ancient Embroidery, which, with its refined products, has decorated the homes of noble Italian and foreign families. Leaving Piazza D’Annunzio on the right we go straight along Via Dante, that just at the beginning of it on the left, has the ancient sixteenth century gate of the Colbertaldo family residence. At the end of the road we look up to the right to the old Gothic House (15) where a striking Venetian gothic three-mullioned-window has alchemical symbols in the capitals of the columns, part of the mystical atmosphere of the town. Let’s stop in the shade of the horse chestnut trees in Piaz- 108 za Brugnoli (12) to admire the wonderful Villa Scotti Pasini (14) and imagining the splendour of the Roman baths whose remains lie beneath the porphyry surface of the square, whose waters were provided by natural springs of the hills channelled into the Bot (13). Taking the clearly visible steps in front of us we continue the walk along the ascent of Via Collegio that leads us to the historic hotel Albergo al Sole, refined place of hospitality and haven for illustrious guests that enlivened Asolo in in the twentieth century, where it is still possible to stay in the blue room with view over the centre of the town, which was occupied for a long time by the Divine Eleonora Duse. We continue to go up along Via Collegio, which runs along the left side of the hotel: at the end of the climb we find the Porta del Colmarion, which has maintained its medieval character more than the other gates; the grooves where the portcullis slid are still visible on the monument along with some elements of the consecutive closure with a hinged door. Going up 109 Itineraries a little on the right of the gate, we find the seventeenth century complex of the Monastery of Saints Peter and Paul (11), occupied until the early nineteenth century by the Benedictine monks, then the location of the council school, named after San Luigi by the population. Just past the Porta del Colmarion, going up the first of about 280 steps that flank the town walls (9), before coming out among the olive branches, on our left we can glimpse the Monte dei Frati, where the Monastery of San Girolamo once stood and where now only remain the white capitals of the Stations of the Cross. Olive groves and vineyards cover the rolling Asolan hills, that from the Rocca of Asolo go as far as the Rocca of Cornuda, producing the renowned Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG and the DOP Veneto Extra-virgin olive oil, products that absolutely deserve to be tasted in the welcoming taverns and restaurants in the old town centre or directly in the cellars spread around nearby. Let’s enjoy the view from the walls of the Rocca (10) and, if you are staying for a few days more in the town, remember to venture along the various nature trails that from here cross the Asolan woods. We now continue our itinerary again towards the centre, no more along the steps but choosing a slightly longer path, Via Rocca, a pathway that goes down to the San Martino one, turning right. We skirt the wall of Villa De Lord, called the Galero, established in the seventeenth century by the noble Rubini family and which offers a view of its little oratory. Once we arrive at Foresto Nuovo, we get a glimpse on the left the steps that go down in the direction of the bell tower of the Franciscan Church of San Gottardo (1), where every 5 May, day of the miracle worker, the oil brought by families to cure joint pain is still blessed. Once out of the churchyard, another stairway takes us down, this time to the most ancient road in Asolo, the Foresto Vecchio: a road that covers the millennial layers of the history of the town, an access to the wooden Paleoveneti houses for the Roman monuments, medieval buildings and for the Venetian splendour. An irreverent phrase on the facade of one of the houses along the road makes us smile and reminds us how the soul of the town, hidden in the ancient atmosphere of the roads and arcades, is still vital today, with the characters that live there. So imagine how life must be in the Villa Zen, built in the sixteenth century and restored by Massari two centuries later, very often enlivened by the colours and the call of the enchanting peacocks. Now let’s go back, called by the notes of the musician and composer Gian Francesco Malipiero, who chose 110 111 Itineraries Asolo as his long abode, secluded and quiet corner for his artistic inspiration. A philosophical Latin motto and a friendly owl walled into the facade welcome us in Casa Malipiero (2), whose park houses, besides the grave of the imaginative artist, even those of his beloved cats. We continue along the road, a glance at the fresco under the porch of the house of the sacri- stan and here we are in front of the Dieda Tower, fatal place of imprisonment of the Blessed Arnaldo da Limena who, in the mid thirteenth century dared to oppose the tyranny of Ezzelino da Romano. Where there was once the entrance gate to the little town, we see some steps: we follow them through the ancient hamlet of Via Bembo until we reach the restored medieval walls and then return back to reach the access road to the town which will lead us to the English Villa Freya (4), Asolan home of the English explorer and writer Freya Stark; in the lush garden of the villa, in opening hours or on reservation, it is possible to admire the remains of the Roman theatre of Asolo (I century A.D.) Beyond the gate of Villa Freya, the short descent to the left leads us to the Portello di Castelfranco, the most recent of the access gates to the walled town, opened toward the end of the fifteenth century to allow access into Asolo from the south. The ancient La Mura house is built into the wall here, where at the end of the nineteenth century, the poet Robert Browning, cup of tea in his hand, wrote Asolando, from the verb asolare, that is, “have fun outdoors”. Close to La Mura, the sixteenth century Fontanella Zen (3)) indeed marks the beginning of Via Browning, with its frescoes and shaded arcades that give shelter to taverns, small shops and stores, harbingers of irresistible scents and colours of the culinary and craft tradition. Going along the arcades looking upwards, we can come across fragments of ancient frescoes and, when the season is right, a multitude of lively and populous swallow nests. At the end of the road we return to the midpoint of the old town centre of Asolo and find once more the Fontana Maggiore, departure and arrival point of our itinerary. 112 113 Itineraries THE Paths 114 115 Itineraries THE Paths SENTIERO DELLA ROCCA The path originates from the church of San Martino, among rows of Scots Pine, Spruce, Olives, Poplars blacks, blacks Carpini and manna-ash. The man’s hand blends the natural environment still intact, which is supporting the scenario of these sites charm. Each house is well maintained and manicured gardens in a wise, gratify the look of the hiker. The trail leads to the east and then, immediately, in continuous curve, first north and then west. These forested areas are still well preserved. The vegetation is intricate, lush, enhanced at every step of interesting species. In spring blooms follow each other and are quite showy. A broom intensely colors of yellow-orange color the borders of the path, while the Hawthorn gives his white robe with the Lantana and the Balloon May. Following the boundary wall of the park, you will come across the entrance to the street of San Martino, which is the classic walk of Asolo. The course, always flat, in 2.5 km leads to the Fornét fork, where the road climbs a bit looking out on the landscape of the hills and valleys of Monfumo, Castles and the Alpine foothills. During the walk, all in the sun, so pleasant in the winter, you pass the church of San Carlo, which is part of Villa Rubini, you meet the road that goes to the Fortress, and later the Church of San Martino with its bell tower. From here, wanting to do a variant, you can go down the road that leads under the Church to meet the Foresto Nuovo in Breda Valleyfrom which you can go back in the city. Continuing our walk over San Martino, after the old inn of Bersagliere, you enter the Valley of FORNET towards the fork, passing close to the source of the Water of Regina. The water of this spring, which now provides a part of the aqueduct of Maser and Asolo, was collected and channeled at the time of Caterina Cornaro to feed the fountains of Barco. The Bembo speaks of a source that flows from the mountains. 116 117 ACCESS: public car park via Foresto Nuovo or from underground car park via Cipressina. DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL ASCENT:about 50 meters LENGTH: about 3 km TIME: 1.30 minutes MOUNTAIN BIKE: Yes sport Golf Club Asolo 31034 Cavaso del Tomba - Treviso Via dei Borghi, 1 390423942211 [email protected] http://golf.ictmail.it/ Asolo Golf Club is located in the municipality of Cavaso del Tomba, about 12 km from the center of Asolo. Set at the foot of the hills of Asolo the course covers three routes: red (3.136 metres), green (3.137 metres) and yellow (3.077 metres). The routes that differ in conformation and difficulty ensure a serious challenge for each golfer. Free flight Borso del Grappa Free flight: Hang gliding – Paragliding in the municipal district of Borso del Grappa (15 km from the old town centre of Asolo) International Free Flight Centre. One of the most popular places in Europe for those who practice these sports. Launch area: Campo Croce. Landing area: Semonzo. 118 119 sHOPPING OLD TOWN Toffolo DONNA Via G. Marconi, 135 - 31011 Asolo +390423952748 Clothing Boutique 181 Bambini 0/16 anni Via R. Browning - 310011 Asolo +390423951163 www.boutique181.it Boutique 181 Uomo - Donna Via R. Browning, 181 - 310011 Asolo +390423950270 www.boutique181.it Eleonora Asolo Via Pietro Bembo, 81 - 31011 Asolo +393356823310, +393487944913 [email protected] LA FEMME Via R. Browning 161 - 31011 Asolo +390423529632 La Rocca Asolana Via Regina Cornaro, 218 - 31011 Asolo +390423952255 Le Damini 1980 Piazza G. D’Annunzio, 6 - 31011 Asolo +390423520234, +390423951355 Marta Stradiotto Via Dante, 21 - 31011 Asolo +390423529490 www.martastradiotto.it Pot Pourrì Via Regina Cornaro, 223B - 31011 Asolo +390423529374 120 Toffolo Uomo Via R. Browning, 169 - 31011 Asolo +390423951024 YORICK Boutique Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, 73 - 31011 Asolo +390423950678 Zabeo Cashmere Piazza Garibaldi, 59 - 31011 Asolo +393462202876 [email protected] Accessories LA BOTTEGA Piazza Garibaldi - 31011 Asolo +390499336505 www.giannisegata.it Leatherwear LA BUFANDA Via R. Browning, 176 - 310011 Asolo +39042355311 Accessories La Stanza s.n.c. Via G. D’Annunzio - 31011 Asolo Footwear Moda’s srl Via R. Browning, 187 - 310011 Asolo +390423529562 Leatherwear 121 sHOPPING OLD TOWN Minimarket Delizie Asolane Via Dante - 31011 Asolo +390423952016 Minimarket Florist Fioreria La Rocca Via Marconi - 31011 Asolo -39042355538 PANAZZOLO DI FELTRACCO LUCIO Via R. Browning, 171 - 31011 Asolo +390423952160 Fruits & Vegetables SPECIALITà GASTRONOMICHE ENNIO Via R. Browning,151 - 31011 Asolo +390423529109 Minimarket Antiques Asolo Kilim Via Marconi, 132 - 31011 Asolo +39042355435 Cecchetto Prior Via R. Browning, 155 - 31011 Asolo +390423952654 Galleria Asolana Via R. Browning, 163 - 31011 Asolo +39042355320 Il Pozzo Antichità Via Roma, 58 - 31011 Asolo +39042355251 La Grange Via Belvedere, 231 - 31011 Asolo +390423952139 122 Jewellery Canova 325 Via G. Garibaldi, 75 - 31011 Asolo +39042355428 Damini Orafi in Asolo Via R. Browning, 180 - 31011 Asolo +39042355723 Rosso s.a.s. Via Giorgione, 58 - 31011 Asolo +39042355544 Tabacco shop Tabaccheria Asolo Via Regina Cornaro, 212 - 31011 Asolo +390423529811 VARie Anima e Cuore di Panizzolo Ilenia Via Dante, 13A - 31011 Asolo Herbalist’s 123 sHOPPING OLD TOWN ATELIER F. RAZ Via R. Browning, 175 - 31011 Asolo Ceramist Berdusco Daniele Sartoria Via Regina Cornaro - 31011 Asolo -390423952303 Couture CERAMICHE LA BÒT Via R. Browning, 166 - 31011 Asolo +39042355430 www.ceramichelabot.it Handicrafts DE LAZZARI ERNESTO Via R. Browning, 179 - 31011 Asolo +390423952073 Fixtures FRANCESCHINI FRANCA Via Regina Cornaro, 211 - 31011 Asolo +390423950060 Haberdashery Irma Paulon - Atelier Via Pietro Bembo, 89 - 31011 Asolo +393406402443 www.irmapaulon.com Artist 124 125 Tourism Services Information Point Saturday evenings and Sundays and holidays, when the ZTL applies. How to get there ZTL timetable (Limited Traffic Zone): Access to the old town centre, to non-residents, is forbidden at the following times: -from 1 October to 30 April: every Saturday from 9:30 pm to 2:00 am of the following day – every Sunday and public holiday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. -from q May to 30 September: every Saturday from 9:30 pm to 2:00 am of the following day – every Sunday and holidays from 10:00 am to 10:00 pm. CAR PARKS Piazza Brugnoli car park in the old town centre How to get there: it is the main square of the old town centre. Times: always open with ZTL- Limited Traffic Zone access restrictions. Price: “scratch and park” card system purchasable at newsstands and bars in the centre. The old town centre is accessible by car, except for Ca’ Vescovo car park How to get there: along the Schiavonesca Marosticana highway (Montebelluna – Bassano del Grappa connection) in front of the “Scarpa” factory. Distance from the old town centre: approximately 2 km (it is recommended to take the shuttle for the ascent, which runs every 30 minutes. Times: Always open Price: Free 126 127 Piazza Garibaldi 73, 31011 Asolo +390423529046 [email protected] Opening time. Monday: Closed Tuesday: 9.30-12.30 Wednesday: 9.30-12.30 Thursday: 9.30-12.30 / 15.00-18.00 Friday: 9.30-12.30 / 15.00-18.00 Saturday: 9.30-12.30 / 15.00-18.00 Sunday: 9.30-12.30 / 15.00-18.00 Bus and car rental with driver Autoservizi De Zen Michele Sas Asolo - Via del Capitello 4 - cell. 368 282232 e-mail:[email protected] Pegasus Tours Snc di Aroldo Dal Bello & C. - Asolo - Via Foresto di Pagnano 19 tel +39 0423 952086 fax +39 0423 529388 e-mail: [email protected] BY CAR: From the east: Toll booth Treviso Nord, via Montebelluna/Toll booth Treviso Sud, via Castelfranco From the south: Toll booth Padova, via Castelfranco, Nuova Strada del Santo From the west: Toll booth Vicenza Nord, exit Valdastico, via Cittadella /Castelfranco and Toll booth Dueville, via Bassano Tourism Services The Forestuzzo car park How to get there: from the Schiavonesca Marosticana highway(Montebelluna – Bassano del Grappa connection) go up towards the old town centre along Via Forestuzzo (reference: coming from Bassano go left after the Shell petrol station, coming from Montebelluna go right after the “Scarpa” factory). After about 1.5 km it is signposted on the right (reference: service area in front of the entrance of the former hospital, now the ULSS 8 – Local Health and social Care Services) GPS: TV002 N45,7963667 E11,9137833 Distance from the old town centre: approximately 400 metres uphill (with moderate incline) with shuttle bus stop Times: Always open Price: Free the “Cipressina” covered car park How to get there: from the Schiavonesca Marosticana highway(Montebelluna – Bassano del Grappa connection) go up towards the old town centre along Via Forestuzzo (reference: coming from Bassano go left after the Shell petrol station, coming from Montebelluna go right after the “Scarpa” factory). After about 2 km it is signposted on the right (reference: after 200 metres from the beginning of the one-way road and wide bend to the left). Distance from the old town centre: approximately 150 metres uphill (pavement along the access road). Times: Always open with parking meter Parking area and motorhome parking Equipped communal area with fee, open all year. Facility with 13/15 gridded paved pitches, water, small well, lighting, electricity, barbeque and picnic area, shaded. Located inside the Forestuzzo (P2) car park, at approximately 400 metres from the old town centre, with shuttle bus stop. Call Mr Attilio Pastro at n. 340 7733042. 128 BY PLANE MARCO POLO VENEZIA www.veniceairport.it +390412606111 To reach Asolo, the MOM company has continuous connections with the railway and bus stations of Treviso. For the timetable see the following website: http://www.mobilitadimarca.it/aeroporto-bus From the Treviso bus station, take the bus for Asolo, Ca’ Vescovo bus stop. For the timetable see the following website: http://www.mobilitadimarca.it/extraurbano Lines 161 and 162 Treviso- Montebelluna-Bassano CANOVA TREVISO www.trevisoairport.it +390422315111 To reach Asolo, the ACTT company – line n. 6, has continuous connections with the railway and bus stations of Treviso. From the Treviso bus station, take the bus for Asolo, Ca’ Vescovo bus stop. For the timetable see the following website: http://www.mobilitadimarca.it/extraurbano Lines 161 and 162 Treviso- Montebelluna-Bassano BY TRAIN Nearest railway stations: Montebelluna, 15 km Castelfranco Veneto, 16 km Bassano del Grappa, 16 km Cornuda, 8 km Montebelluna from the Montebelluna station, take line 162 (12b.LM) http://www.mobilitadimarca.it/extraurbano 129 Tourism Services Castelfranco Veneto From the Castelfranco Veneto railway station go to the via Padgora 1 bus station, take line 204 (4CTM) http://www.mobilitadimarca.it/extraurbano Bassano del Grappa From the Bassano del Grappa railway station, take line 162 (12b.LM ) or line 207 (7CTM) http://www.mobilitadimarca.it/extraurbano FOR THE OLD TOWN CENTRE OF ASOLO From the Ca’ Vescovo bus stop, in the MontebellunaBassano direction, a shuttle bus runs approximately every 30 minutes to reach the old town centre. Timetable at the bus stop or on internet at www.asolo.it, in the Plan your trip section. Tel. +39368282232 Service Station REPSOL Casella d’Asolo, Via Schiavonesca Marosticana 46 IP Casella d’Asolo, Viale Tiziano 34 ESSO Casella d’Asolo, Via Montello 25 OIL ITALIA Pagnano d’Asolo, Via Vallorgana 1 IP Asolo, località Casonetto, Via Bassane 2 130 Bank services Unicredit Banca Spa Via Regina Cornaro, 220 - 31011Asolo +3904231850001 Veneto Banca S.C.P.A. Via Dante, 29 - 31011 Asolo +390423950450 Banca Popolare di Verona Società Cooperativa Via Dei Tartari, 31 - 31011 Casella d’Asolo +390423952980 Banca Popolare di Vicenza SCpA Via Tiziano Ang. Foresto Nuovo, 150 31011 Casella d’Asolo +390423950860 Credito Trevigiano Banca di Credito Cooperativo Via Manin, 2A - 31011 Casella d’Asolo +390423950831 Intesa Sanpaolo Spa Viale Tiziano, 1/A - 31011 Casella d’Asolo +390423529244 Unicredit Banca Spa Via Dei Tartari, 3 - 31011 Casella d’Asolo +3904231850005 Veneto Banca S.C.P.A. Via Giorgione, 7/A - 31011 Casella d’Asolo +390423529855 131 Tourism Services CASTELFRANCO VENETO Hospital Via Ospedale, 18 - 31033 Castelfranco Veneto +39118, +390423497892 CIVILE MONTEBELLUNA Hospital Via Togliatti, 1- 31044 Montebelluna +3904236111 Duty Doctors Local Police Via Cavin Dei Cavai, 27 - 31011 Asolo +390423950044 [email protected] Morning opening time: Monday 11.30 - 13.00 / Friday 11.30 - 13.00 Afternoon opening time: Wednesday 16.30 - 18.00 The Service of continuous assistance on holidays and at night respects the following times: Weekdays - from 20.00 to 8.00 Days before holidays - from 10.00 to 20.00 Holidays - from 8.00 to 20.00 Carabinieri The Headquarters where you can turn are: CRESPANO DEL GRAPPA - TEL.0423 935777 Via Montegrappa 17 - Presso sede Distretto CASTELFRANCO V.TO - TEL. 0423 732753 - Via Ospedale 12 - Presso Centro Anziani Sartor MONTEBELLUNA - TEL. 0423 601570 - Via Ospedale,54 - Presso Ospedale Vecchio VALDOBBIADENE - TEL. 0423 977301 - Via Roma 38 - Presso sede Distretto Via Giorgione - 31011 Casella D’Asolo +39115, +390423952222 Pharmacies Bonotto dr. Massimo Piazza Garibaldi, 79 - 31011 Asolo +39042355136 Farmacia All’Angelo di Dr. Tonini Sergio Via Dei Tartari, 1 - 31010 Casella D’Asolo +390423529382 Via Santa Caterina, 280 - 31011 Asolo +39112, +390423952012 [email protected] Firefighters Post office Post office asolo Via Browning, 172 - 31011 Asolo +390423950334 Post office casella D’asolo Viale Tiziano, 27 - 31011 Casella D’Asolo +39899022956 Veterinary Avanzi Vets Via M. Ricci, 8 - 31011 Asolo +390423950113 132 SOS 133 Comune di Asolo Assessorato al Commercio www.asolo.it 134