10 great walks in our favorite cities
Transcription
10 great walks in our favorite cities
10 GREAT WALKS IN OUR FAVORITE CITIES THERE’S NO BETTER WAY TO EXPLORE A CITY than wandering its streets and alleys, from terracotta-hued palaces, picturesque squares, and baroque architectural showstoppers in Rome, to the modern glass towers, 19th-century limestone mansions, and secret, pocket-size parks of Manhattan. We’ve gathered 10 fabulous walks in our favorite cities in the United States and Europe, so put on your comfy shoes and hit the streets. 400 meters W. Wacker Drive S. Water Street Lake Street Clark St. James R. Thompson Center END CLARK River Chicago Union Station The Great Fire of 1871 could have been the death of Chicago, but instead it proved to be a grand rebirth, as renowned architects rebuilt the city’s skyline. Today it’s Chicago’s most aweinspiring attribute. Start with the Willis Tower, a 1,454-foot giant that was the world’s tallest building when completed in 1973. Next, head to South LaSalle St. and the Rookery Building. This 12-story stunner, completed in 1888 ADAMS L Jackson Blvd. JACKSON Monadnock Building L L LIBRARY Van Buren Street LASALLE 224 S. Michigan Ave. Auditorium Theatre LaSalle St. Station Harrison St. in 1889 that still hosts performances. Double back to Jackson and Dearborn to see the geometric, 4.6-acre Federal Center, completed in the early 1970s by Mies van der Rohe. Don’t miss the graceful slopes of Chase Tower, built in 1969 as the First National Bank of Chicago Building. The Sullivan Center, at State and Madison streets, has elaborate cast-iron ornamentation over its entryway and a vertical, threepart “Chicago Window.” The Reliance Building (now the Hotel Burnham) on Van Buren Station Columbus Drive 2 to 4 hours, depending on stops Adams Street Congress Plaza Congress Pkwy. 100E TIMING: Chicago Board of Trade Millennium Park MONROE Michigan Ave. 100 W. Randolph St. Dwight D. Eisenhower Expwy. 500W END: by Daniel Burnham and John Welborn Root, is the oldest standing high-rise in town. On Jackson, check out the 45-story Art Deco Chicago Board of Trade, designed by Holabird and Root in 1930. Also on Jackson Blvd. is Burnham and Root’s 17-story Monadnock Building. Built in 1891, it’s the last and tallest skyscraper built with masonry load-bearing walls. The nearby 224 S. Michigan Ave. was also built by Burnham in 1904. On Congress Parkway see Louis Sullivan and Dankmar Adler’s Auditorium Theatre, a grand theater completed Sullivan Center (Carson Pirie Scott) L S. Wacker Drive CHICAGO DOWNTOWN SKYLINE L MADISON Madison Street L Monroe Street Federal Center Rookery Adams St. QUINCY L STA RT Quincy St. Randolph St. Station Washington Blvd. Dearborn Street Canal Street image caption Willis Tower RANDOLPH WASHINGTON State Street LaSalle St. Chase Tower Lake Street Macy’s FPO map L Reliance Building/ [walking tour] Hotel Burnham Monroe St. Wacker Dr. and Adams St. L WASHINGTON Wells Street Madison Street Franklin Street Citicorp Center Washington Blvd. L STATE Randolph Street Richard J. Daley Center FPO image START: L Columbus Drive 0 Wabash Ave. 1/4 mile Dearborn Street 0 L HARRISON State St. is the first-ever glass-and-steel skyscraper. On the northeast corner of State and Washington is Macy’s, designed by Burnham in 1907 and most famous for the multistory atriums inside, one domed with a Tiffany mosaic. Finally, walk west on Randolph St. to reach the 648-foot Richard J. Daley Center at Clark St.. Across Randolph is Helmut Jahn’s dome-shape James R. Thompson Center. BEST WALKING TOURS IN AMERICA / 3 St Ph An ilip Fir dr ew St t ee ee Str Str st . t Se co ph Morris House Italianate Mansion Robinson House Six th Str ee t lis e Str ee Brevard House t Musson House Se co Co um Carroll House nd Str Commander’s Palace t ton Av en A walk through the Garden District, just a 20-minute streetcar ride from the French Quarter, provides a unique look at life in New Orleans, past and present. Start at The Rink, a small shopping complex, and walk east on Prytania to see Colonel Short’s Villa (1448 Fourth St.) with its ornate cornstalk fence. The Briggs-Staub House (2605 Prytania St.) is one of the few Gothic Revival houses in the city. ue 45 minutes (without stops inside) t ee ing TIMING: Payne House t et sh 1416-1498 Washington Ave. The Lonsdale House (2521 Prytania St.) was a Catholic chapel for more than 70 years. The Maddox House (2507 Prytania St.) is an example of the five-bay Greek Revival expansion. The Women’s Guild of the New Orleans Opera Association House (2504 Prytania St.) has a distinctive octagonal turret. The Bradish-Johnson House (2343 Prytania St.) is regal, while the relatively modest raised TobyWestfeldt House (2340 Prytania St.), is an example of a Creole colonial home. Morris House (1331 First St.) and the Carroll House (1315 First m ee tre t Wa ee END: Washington Ave. and Prytania St. 100m Ca tr pS hS Str START: 0 ee Str tn t ird es ee urt nth Ch Str ut Fo ve END Th Se 500ft t e Colonel Short’s Villa 0 e Str Women’s Guild of the New Orleans Opera Association House et Nolan House NEW ORLEANS GARDEN DISTRICT HOUSES nu Pry ia tan START Lafayette Cemetery No.1 ve Briggs-Staub House image caption nA t ue Maddox House Lonsdale House The Rink so ee en FPO map [walking tour] Toby-Westfeldt House Bradish-Johnson House e Str Av ar v u en ilip ton Ch A les ue Ph ing St a en ni t ck et sh S h tC rle v sA yta ee ee t tre Pr tr aS Ja ee hS eie t Str Str urt nd ee ine t ird ee se Str Jo nd Th Fo Wa FPO image ro Ca tr tS St.) are decorated with “iron lace,” exemplifying the romantic Italianate style. Brevard House (1239 First St.) has an ornate cast-iron gate that extends the length of the block. A block farther on the right is the Payne House (1134 First St.), where Confederate president Jefferson Davis died. Actor John Goodman lives in the Italianate Mansion at 2425 Coliseum St.. The white-columned Robinson House (1413 Third St.) was the first Ma ga z S ine tre et Co ns ta e nc Str ee t house in New Orleans with indoor plumbing. Check out the intricate ironwork at Musson House (1415 Third St.). The white-columned Nolan House, at 2707 Coliseum is where the film The Curious Case of Benjamin Button was set. The Commander’s Palace (1403 Washington Ave.), is a great stop for lunch. End the tour with a visit to the white-walled Lafayette Cemetery No. 1, arguably the most beautiful cemetery in New Orleans. BEST WALKING TOURS IN AMERICA / 4 E. 60th St. CENTRAL PARK N,Q,R Central Park South A,B,C,D,1 F W. 57th St. W. 50th St. N,Q,R W. 49th St. W. 47th St. Grand Central Terminal W. 45th St. B,D,F,M W. 42nd St. E. 43rd St. 4,5,6,7,S E. 42nd St. Bryant Park First Ave. Second Ave. Third Ave. Lexington Ave. 1/4 mi Park Ave. 0 E. 40th St. Madison Ave. 0 E. 41st St. STA RT Fifth Ave. Sixth Ave. Midtown is a mind-boggling patch work of styles that coalesce into one of the world’s great urban landscapes. Begin with a taste of early 20th-century neoclassicism at the New York Public Library, and walk along East 42nd St. to the Beaux-Arts Grand Central Terminal, two brilliantly designed public spaces as beautiful as they are functional. Art Deco is perhaps Midtown’s most distinctive style, with y 1½ to 2 hours dwa TIMING: B ro a W. 38th St. Seventh Ave. W. 39th St. E. 44th St. Chrysler Building 7 New York Public Library W. 40th St. Eighth Ave. 45 Rockefeller Plaza N,Q,R,S 1,2,3,7 W. 41st St. W. 37th St. END: E. 47th St. E. 45th St. W. 43rd St. the Chrysler Building considered one of the great masterpieces. Double back and head north on Park Ave. to check out such Jazz Age landmarks as the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel. Just past that is the Byzantine dome of St. Bartholomew’s Church and two blocks north of that is the bronze-andglass Seagram Building, designed by modernist innovator Mies van der Rohe. Pop into the flagship Louis Vuitton—Moët Hennessy Tower, an arched glass skyscraper that’s both conspicuous and elegant. The Trump Tower’s ostentatious atrium flaunts E. 48th St. E. 46th St. A,C,E 5th Ave. at 42nd St. E. 49th St. Waldorf Astoria Hotel W. 44th St. START: E. 51st St. W. 46th St. image caption NEW YORK MIDTOWN ARCHITECTURE E. 52nd St. 6 E. 50th St. Radio City Music Hall B,D,F,M E. 53rd St. St. Bartholomew’s Church Rockefeller Center END W. 48th St. E. 55th St. E. 54th St. E,M Seagram Building E. 56th St. First Ave. 1 Second Ave. C,E E,M Third Ave. W. 51st St. FPO map [walking tour] Lexington Ave. W. 52nd St. Trump Tower Park Ave. W. 55th St. Avenue of the Americas W. 53rd St. Nos. Nos. 13-15 9-11 Madison Ave. W. 56th St. B,D,E E. 58th St. E. 57th St. Fifth Ave. dway FPO image Seventh Ave. B ro a Eighth Ave. W. 54th St. E. 59th St. Louis Vuitton– Moët Hennessy Tower W. 58th St. N,Q,R N,Q,R,4,5,6 1/4 km unbridled luxury, with expensive boutiques and brass accents. with oriel windows, heavy carvings, and sweeping, paired staircases. When you reach 54th St., turn right. The two remaining 19th-century mansions at Nos. 9–11 and Nos. 13–15 West 54th St. are in sharp contrast to Midtown architecture. Nos. 9–11 are inspired by Colonial American architecture; note the small iron balconies, splayed lintels, and paneled keystones. Nos. 13–15 are a grand, Renaissance-inspired structure Finally, head south on 6th Ave. for a landmark piece of Art Deco architecture, Radio City Music Hall, with its distinctive pink-and-blue neon sign. Loop around through Rockefeller Center, and finish by taking in the plaza there with its stark lines and the crowning statue of Prometheus. BEST WALKING TOURS IN AMERICA / 5 a Beaux-Arts building modeled after a Roman bath; it dominates the northwest corner of Capitol Hill and is easily accessible on the Metro Red Line. Next door, the Smithsonian National Postal Museum will delight philatelists. w a re Dela na lS t re et 1/2 mi 0 0 1/2 km C Street D Street Following Delaware Ave. south, you V i rg i n i a Av enu come right up to the massive U.S. e has so many books, recordings, maps, Capitol, which sits majestically at the manuscripts, and photographs that it east end of the Mall. Tours leave from actually takes three buildings to get the the Capitol Visitor Center, which is job done. Inside the Jefferson Building, located underneath the building. In you can view the Great Hall, peek front of the Capitol, on the south side, into the Main Reading Room, and is the United States Botanic Garden, wander through changing exhibitions the oldest botanic garden in North related to the library’s holdings. Follow America. Walk east on Independence Pennsylvania Ave. south between 2nd Ave., then north on 1st St., where the and 6th streets. Take a break with the Jefferson Building of the Library of locals at any of the cozy restaurants, Congress and the U.S. Supreme Court sit side by side. The Library of Congress bars, and coffee shops that line this 2nd Avenue 8th Street 7th Street chu set ts A Capitol South Pe n e ve n ue Independence Avenue nsy l va nia No Av e nu e Seward Square rth Eastern Market Ca 8th Street 7th Street 6th Street Street uthw 1st St Ca ssa nu E Capitol Street est Drive Independence Avenue U.S. Botanic Garden Ma ue ry Av e Constitution Avenue Jefferson Building of the Library of Congress A nue So Stanton Park 5th Street Av e ve n Ma d lan 3rd Street United States Capitol A and D Street A Street 2nd Street nd ryla ryl U.S. Supreme Court e 1st Street 3rd Street Washington, D.C., is a walking city, especially around the Mall, where America’s most famous monuments are clustered. Start at Union Station, Ma nue 1 hour if you skip the Capitol Tour enu Reflecting Pool Ma Av e n ue a Av y Av e TIMING: A S Capitol Street va n i na ue c 3rd Street 1st Street 3rd Street nsyl a isi n ve ssa E Street FPO map husetts Ave nu e [walking tour] C Street D Street Jerse Eastern Market Ma New END: STA RT Constitution Avenue e s t D r i ve rthw No image caption Union Station nue Pe n START: y Av e 2nd Street Jerse u Lo WASHINGTON, D.C. CAPITOL HILL MONUMENTS N Capitol Street New FPO image F Street 5th Street Union Station 6th Street UNION STATION F Street E Stree t G Street 4th Street Smithsonian National ve n Postal ue Museum 3rd Street ts A 2nd Street set 1st Street chu t. ssa 1st S Ma ina ro l Av e . END block. The Eastern Market on the corner of 7th and C streets is the perfect ending for this walk; it’s the city’s oldest market and a community fixture since 1873. Grab your picnic supplies here or a handmade keepsake from a local artist. The market is open from Tuesday to Sunday and really buzzes on weekends. BEST WALKING TOURS IN AMERICA / 6 y St re et et et G re en St re B atte ry St FPO map [walking tour] et U n io n St re re et M o n tg o m er Ke ar ny St re 1398 Grant Ave. . END et So no m a n ue re et G re en St re Va re nn es G ra n t Ave et U n io n St re Ja sp er Sto ck to n St Washington Square s Sa n so m e St Po w el l St . Fl ib er t Step Vallejo Stairs Va lle jo St . et Ro m olo Va lle jo St re Caffe Trieste 1010 Montgomery St. B ro ad w ay Beat Museum Language of Birds City Lights Bookstore B ro ad w ay START Pa ci fi c Ave Vesuvio Pa ci fi c Ave SAN FRANCISCO NORTH BEACH BEATNIK WALK START: END: 261 Columbus Ave. Corner of Grant Ave. and Green St. 45 minutes, depending on how long you linger TIMING: Home to American bohemia and birthplace of the Beat Movement, North Beach still crackles with the energy of the revolutionary artists who electrified a generation here in the sixties. Start at City Lights, the era’s epicenter of progressive thought and the country’s most daring publisher. Outside, neighboring Jack Ja et ck so n St re lu m Ja ck so n St bu sA ve nu eet in g to n S tr It firmly places the Beat Generation in history; their rejection of the status quo was an artistic reaction against 1950s Cold War conformism. They were deeply influential in the antiestablishment counterculture of the ‘60s as well. Head around the corner to No. 1010 Montgomery; this is where Allen Ginsberg wrote Howl. Continue up Montgomery, turn left, and walk up the Vallejo stairs and Portsmouth Square re et e 0 Wa sh Kerouac Alley is inlaid with the words of Kerouac, Maya Angelou, and Confucius. At Vesuvio, an art-splashed saloon, order a drink and soak up the neighborhood’s vibe. Walk up to Broadway and take in the public art on the corner: Language of Birds is a flock of illuminated books that appear to have just taken flight. Notice the words and phrases embedded in the plaza floor that could have just fallen from the pages. The Beat Museum on Broadway is a quirky collection of photos, books, music, and artifacts. n ue Co Jo h n S t. n ue 0 100 M 250 ft onward to the venerable Caffe Trieste, a favorite perch of Kerouac, Ginsberg, and Charles Bukowski. Head north up Grant to No. 1398, where the Co-Existence Bagel Shop (now long closed) served as the living room of the Beat Generation in the days when cops arrested kids for wearing sandals. End the walk by browsing Grant Ave.’s excellent boutiques, and pick up some edgy couture or vintage botanical prints. BEST WALKING TOURS IN AMERICA / 7 ir év Elz ne vign re n e Se e Tu R. d R. d ul ts Po n ux De e es to i s R. d Po n ul t S ly Qu d ar rn sy s é Ru e sS t-B e ois eP Qu ai Sa os R. d sF de n A rè Pa int R. ché Qu ’A rc a i h e vé de l e l e tte ai Jussieu R He nr in t-b C ue uv iI V er na rd ier Jardin des Plantes R. Lacépède Place Monge 0 0 400 ft 400 m i ta l de R . C lo t i l e R. bau e Lo R. d ’A rc R. d ues J a cq int Sa R. d e la C i té R. d e onn Sorb R. Sa ra n La ve o le s alai uP l che e la R. d R . Va ègu ier R. D R. S rd S aint -Mi le va n se R. e ta rd d R. To ur nefo rt on e Al pho om Plac END Ru e Ro ll in Hôp b e n to n e l’ Dau Bou le va south from Lutetia (the Roman name for Paris) to Italy. The upper half is dotted with restaurants and bars that cater to tourists and students; the lower half is a lively morning market Tuesday through Sunday. If the sun’s shining, finish the walk by visiting the Gallo-Roman Arènes de Lutèce, a Roman amphitheater that was almost completely destroyed by barbarians in AD 280. rd d Ru e M o n g e R. Hen M l ly S u a rd de ulev Bo une R . Li n n e Lh de éth Po n R. Arènes Ju ss de Lutèce ie u es nge ra p a R . M o u ff R. l’Est eB Bd. Sully Morland E v is R. Mo Place de l'Estrapade R . d e R . D e s c a r te s Panthéon Q. d 5e Eglise St-Etienne Cardinal du-Mont Lemoine R . C lo Qu a e G i des eor ges Cé les Ro m t i n s pid Qua ou i d ’A njo IN e is jas Vo i e R. de Co nd é Pont-Marie i de SE ng dic R. Cu Saint-Paul R La Sorbonne 3e Ru es Mo Mé t Qua l e va r d S a i n t -G e r m a i n R. de Experience the counterculture and creativity of the Left Bank, along with stunning achitecture, 2nd-century Gallo-Roman ruins, and the city’s oldest street. Start at the Pont Neuf for excellent views off the western tip of the Ile de la Cité, and then explore the island’s magnificent architectural heritage, including the Conciergerie, Sainte-Chapelle, and Notre-Dame. There’s much to see at É co l o MaubertMutualité Bo u s VE ce R. 1½ hours sas TIMING: des ell Quartier Latin this awe-inspiring cathedral, like the Place Ernest rose window above the main portal,No Denis t re Dam which dates from the 13th century. e d ereconstructed ruins of 2nd-century s Ch amp s Gallo-Roman steam baths. At the The three windows below it contain summit of the hill above the Sorbonne some of France’s finest examples of university is the imposing Panthéon, 12th-century stained-glass artistry. The a monument to (and mausoleum of) brave can climb the spiral staircase French heroes. Don’t miss the exquisite to the towers for a gargoyle’s-eye Eglise St-Etienne-du-Mont next door, view of the city. Detour through where the relics of the city’s patron neighboring Ile St-Louis and explore Saint Geneviève are displayed. the boutiques, cafés, and restaurants Follow the Rue Descartes to the Rue before heading into the medieval Mouffetard, a winding cobblestone labyrinth of the Quartier Latin. Its street that is one of the city’s oldest most valuable treasures are preserved and was once a Roman road leading in the Musée de Cluny, including the ’A s 49 rue Monge Rue Auguste Comte n te ier Q ed END: Pont Neuf u f f lo N la C E orse os Ru START: R. So Da R. Musée de Cluny Ru e R. d u Ro i Ru e de R de Sici i v o l i le Ru e Fr. M i ro n Bou R. S rbo ain FPO map n t Lo uis en [walking tour] Ile St-Louis l’lle b Cluny-laSorbonne ain ine a c in e u SEI sR RI Prin R. R n dec pido Hôtel de Ville ria de u u r le PARIS STROLL THE LEFT BANK Place André Honnorat 6e Mé to Cité Po m i c to rs nsie image caption R. F le u Mo on Jardin du Luxembourg Germ de ie ux c. l’É ice R. R . d e To u rn R . S t- S u lp re r ia de R. Saint- Ve r ua rd Odéon an rg e s ER Qua i de Bd s D R. Av. V RIV .d v re die le va e la oli Ma Quai rc h d e éN euf Q. S t-M i c h e Cathédrale l Notre-Dame R. S Qu t-Sé ai ve r i de n Mo n te SaintMichel s Arts Geo oge Conciergerie Ile de la Cité Sainte-Chapelle R . S t - A n d ré d e omé Bou l’Horl rie nc C Saint-Germaindes-Prés ud sO in Quai de de rma én d e l ’A FPO image t-Ge Gu Ru e Sain R. a ég Vo i e ai R. Vi scon ti Co Pont Neuf nt i STA RT R. d Riv Châtelet Qu e za r i n R. Ma in e R. de Se Ru e de s B ea ux A rt s de Bou Quai e laq u ais hin i Ma aup Qua de R. d Ru e BEST WALKING TOURS IN EUROPE / 8 b es af t ll Gua ad full day of exploring This regal runaround packs more into a day than most cities can offer in a week. Hit Westminster Abbey early to avoid the crowds, then cut through St. James’s Park to catch the Changing of the Guard at 11:30 am at Buckingham Palace. (If the palace doors are open, enjoy a peek at royal life.) Take a quick detour to the Tudor delights of St. James’s Palace, old st Ca le Storey ’s Gate STA RT St. James’s Park ay e F ra n c e Ln . dw St. Pe t t y Vi c ia to r Str ee t Westminster Abbey We stm inster Br. Houses of Parliament WEST M I N ST ER National Gallery. At the southern point of the square is a statue of Charles I on a horse. Charles II had it placed here in 1667, near the spot where his father was executed in 1649. After lunch, choose from the canvases of the National Gallery (there are more than 2,300 works, from Michelangelo, Leonardo, Turner, Monet, van Gogh, Picasso, and more). Or check out who’s who at the National Portrait Gallery. If your energy is starting to flag, head over to the crypt of St. Martin-in-the-Fields for a little brass rubbing; it’s a fun way to create your own keepsake. Finish with a stately stroll down Whitehall—past Downing St., Horse Guards Parade, and Banqueting House—to the Houses of Parliament, where you have the option of pre-booking a tour or trying to get in to see a debate. BEST WALKING TOURS IN EUROPE / 9 t TIMING: A of Parliament haunt of Charles I, before a promenade d down the Mall past the Regency glory of Carlton House Terrace and through Admiralty Arch to Trafalgar Square. This is the official center of London, dominated by the 170-foot Nelson’s Column and its enormous bronze lions. The lampposts on the south side, heading down Whitehall, are topped with ships—they all face Portsmouth, home of the British navy. Check out the statue of George Washington, a gift from the state of Virginia in 1921, on the lawn at the north side by the Gat Parliament Square Westminster Sou END: Houses Abbey am . en START: Westminster sen a ce gh EN D rg e St . St Pa l kin B ro a B uc e Wa l k G re at G e o St . S t . M a rg a r e t Buckingham Palace Gardens ll Pl Pa r l i a m e n t S t r e e t Do w ni ng St . Buckingham Palace LONDON WESTMINSTER’S ROYAL HERITAGE te h a nd Banqueting House Downing Street Ki ng Ch ar le s B i rd c a g Whi berla R IV E R rd s R o e Embankment hum a H o r s e g u rd s A v e . St. James's Park Con stitutio n Hill B re s Nort rse Th ll Ma Pl. Ho Green Park oy TH AM ES t Th a eM St. James's Palace image caption v Sa kment Co ee illy d Trafalgar Square re FPO map Admiralty Arch ua Sq all lM [walking tour] Pa l Carlton House Terrace an Emban t e n. Charing Cross ll Str gS arl et te h a es Kin t re e Ch nL St. Martin– In–the–Fields Whi Jam ST. J AM ES’ S e e aid Vi c t o r i a St uit nd Sh Jam t re df St. St. St. S s II k o cng i s t to n v Ta t te r S E xe St d et nt nS s's St. or ark ge St. Green Park my et t re National Gallery d. ym Re et St. H Str ss R Ha et y y dill M C ro et re t re Pic d ca c National Portrait Gallery St rS Pi ill ca ring t re r le ve o rd on St d ca Cha dS Piccadilly Circus Pic Jer Curz r ert Ru p t . S ow St. use we Be Leicester Square ta lli St eR on ma Do FPO image e Br . St en t rie We nt vil dB be ff S ta ns Ln ege Sa Ol Al sho Glas Lisl e St tt i Vic . Va ldi na Piazza Parlamento Vi a d d.C Vi a Via d.Roto nda t e f. d . C a c c o .S Via Caetani V. d. Tempio V. d . c ito Piazza Venezia Vi a d u na 0 ri Po r t i co d’O elf ini 200 M 500 ft via been inspired by a tabee’s stinger. Follow the crowds to Piazza Navona, Rome’s most celebrated 17th-century example of Baroque exuberance, with Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers dead center. Either grab a caffè table and watch the world go by here, in front of 17thcentury Sant’Agnese in Agone, or head on to the enchanting Piazza della Pace, where Santa Maria della Pace sits on a tiny piazzina; the scene is one of Rome’s most attractive streetscapes. t BEST WALKING TOURS IN EUROPE / 10 o la nu A re Vi a d e i F .D V. d 0 V P ro i a d . g re sso ri na tt i Pe Vi a G HET T O N h e O s c u re Vi a ne ro he sc Ma V.d . Via di Torre Argent ina lo Vi a d . Gal i es rn Fa ei V. d V. Monterone V. d.T. Val le e cc S o ra G. V Ce rri ga V i a d . Pa r i o ne V. d Vi c . Pa Can . d ce ce . lli V. d .T. Pa ce hio Via d. Fili ppi ni La r ell Vi a d t t o e A rc h From Piazza della Rotonda take Via Giustiniani to San Luigi dei Francesi to see Caravaggio’s moving cycle of paintings depicting the life of Saint Matthew. These include the three most famous canvases, The Calling of Saint Matthew, The Inspiration of Saint Matthew, and The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew. Next, head to the Baroque Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza. Be sure to look up at the lantern of Sant’Ivo: a swirling spiral shape like whipped cream that is said to have chi li pec . Vi a S l l o e M a rc Sta . An na P le b is Il Gesù Vi a d e l le B o tte g i Piazza d. Monte di V. deg Pietá li S o el ri . d va to V t. d er ei ons C Va l l a ti AREA SACRA V ia d . s ta l l i nar le I I Vi a I V Vi a A Lg bo to V. S STA RT a tta ve iub V. d . r b ie r i Piazza Fontana di Trevi e t t .M u ra Vi a d e tt i ingh Vi a M i lta .Um d a Vi ei Vi a d i Sabin ella G ol e iG Via B a Piazza Grazioli v C el sa was added later, sometime during the Baroque period. Outside is another remarkable sculpture, the Elephant and Obelisk by Bernini, father of the Baroque. The Egyptian obelisk sitting atop the elephant was discovered during nearby excavations in the mid-1600s and the final work was unveiled in 1667. Straight ahead lies the Pantheon, one of the wonders of the ancient Roman world. The building’s dome remains the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome, and the oculus, at its apex, is the only source of light besides the entrance. de o ol Pa S. la di ego a.R re Vi c P .d. n ro a ve a Vi a di in Vi V. M . te d . Fa r i n a al e Te Piazza Farnese i ia b Te um es Campo de’ Fiori h ia va r iul ei rn Via del Sudario v d e’ C G V. Fi Fa ari nue P ig n a e sù e td The Navona and Campo districts are the Rome of your dreams, full of terracotta-hued palaces, picturesque squares, and one architectural showstopper after another. Begin at the super-opulent Il Gesù, the church that introduced the Baroque style to 17thcentury Rome. Head toward Piazza della Minerva and Santa Maria sopra Minerva, home to Michelangelo’s marble Risen Christ statue. The lioncloth Lg Around 1½ hours ina ell Ema a V. d e ll Via dei Cos tari o ns i M TIMING: lla pp orio Piazza della Minerva Via d e l G d V. Santa Maria della Pace de C o r s o Vi t t v ita M a r ia hi END: Il Gesù t. .Ca a V. C a r e Vi a d cc START: Ca n V. i V. d Via di Pie tra i to n Pantheon Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva Piazza St.Eustachio o to te r Sant’ Ivo alla Sapienza v M e lo n e Ve grin C A MP O r ra Lg Sant’ Agnese in Agone rso hi image caption Pe l l e el Co nc ri Vi a d Ba r ta Piazza Navona le n a Vi a Ca V. di Tor Mellina Piazza Pietra V. Aqu iro i stin FPO map V. d e i Pa [walking tour] V. Seminario V.d . Sa lva to re ia io i co Via de Pozzo d.Co rnacchie Vi a Gi us tin ia ni e cc h ch Santa Maria della Pace ce Cor so del Rin asc ime nto G.V ec Vi a d e l ROME HISTORIC CHURCHES & PIAZZAS lF el Va c V.d. Sta . M.d . Ani ma Vi a d de San Luigi dei Francesi na V Vi a END di Madda i co FPO image Vi a dano Piazza Colonna Piazza di Montecitorio Via del Copp elle o V. D o g . Vi a d a Ve t r i n an Gior V. d. U.d.Vica rio Via Piazza Piazza S.Salvatore Lancellotti in Lauro N AV O N A Via dei Coronari P V. V. M . dati i Sol V. d e rd e l l i na a a V. Z L g t . To r d i N o n e l Tr d.C Via de ll’O rso re f e Via Po P Vi a rzio ri o anz . V. S ta V .B ia M zio l Via d e llo C a n ce e ve re Fiume T ar .Ma L l lo te Po n e r t o b Um L g t . C a s te M gt. Vi a The Eixample district is packed with Barcelona’s best architectural examples of the Catalan Art Nouveau. Starting in the Plaça de Catalunya, walk up Passeig de Gràcia until you reach the corner of Consell de Cent. Here is the Manzana de la Discòrdia (the Block of Discord), where the three great figures of Barcelona’s late-19th-century mbla La Ra Sant P e re BA R R I GÒT I C l de re r C. de Padilla C. de Lepant Av in d gu Marina a M id er bes ia na Glòries C. d’Avila e Ri C. de Pamlona C. d Plaça de les Glòties Catalanes C. d’Alaba C. de Sardenya C. de Nàpols C. de Sicilia C. C. de Marina Monumental C. d’Ali Bei Arc de Triomf C. del Dos de Maig C. de Cartagena Plaça de Gaudí Tetuán Parc de l’Estacio del Nord to the undulating stone façade and twisted iron balconies. Do take time to see the roof, the Gaudí museum, and the early-20th-century apartment. Just around the corner, on Avinguda Diagonal, is Puig i Cadafalch’s Palau Baró de Quadras; it’s just two minutes from the architect’s Nordic castle fantasy, the Casa de les Punxes. From here it’s only a 10-minute stroll to Passeig de Sant Joan and yet another Puig i Cadafalch masterpiece, Casa C. del Rosseló C. de Lepant a de Hospital S A GR A D A de Sant Pau FA M Í LI A C. de Còrsega ats amor els Fn d . C da Dia C. del Consell de Cent gon al C. de Marina Ro n d C. de la Indústria Gran Via de les Corts C. de Sardenya C. d’Ausiás Marc Urquinaona ngu C. de la Diputació C. de Sicllia START Plaça De Catalunya Av i C. del consell de Cent C. de Nàpols C. de Casp i ta t Catalunya C. de Roger Plaça de Tetuán Passeig de Saint Joan i ve rs de Flor Passeig de Saint Joan Passeig de Saint Joan C. de Ballèn C. del Bruc C. de Roger C. de la Diputació C. de d’Aragó END Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família C. de València C. de Roger de Flor C. de C. de Balmes Passeig de Gràcia Girona Car TIMING: All day with a tour of Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família a Un lai Hospital de Sant Pau Moderniste movement—Lluis Domènech i Montaner, Josep Puig i Cadafalch, and Antoni Gaudí—went head to head with three radically different buildings: Casa Lleó Morera, Casa Amatller, and Casa Batlló. The Casa Montaner i Simó— Fundació Tàpies, with its wire sculpture Núvol i cadira (Cloud and Chair) by Antoni Tàpies, is just west, around the corner on Carrer d’Aragó. Swing by Casa Domènech i Estapà on Carrer de Valencia for a more conservative take on the Art Nouveau movement. Gaudí’s Casa Milà was controversial thanks C. de Valènci de Llúria Passeig de Gràcia Catalunya RAVAL C. de Mallorca Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes Pe END: Plaça de Catalunya Manzana De La Discòrdia de START: E I X A MPLE C. BARCELONA EIXAMPLE’S ART NOUVEAU C. d’Aragó Ro n d Plaça de la Casa Macaya Sagrada C. de Mallorca Família Casa Montaner I Simó–fundació Tàpies Universitat Plaça de la Universitat Verdaguer Passeig de Saint Joan Passeig de Saint Joan C. de València image caption Pass eig de Gràc ia Casa Domènech I Estapà Casa Milà 500 m Hospital De Sant Pau C. de Sant Antoni Maria Clare Sagrada i a gCasa De Les Punxes ona Família Verdaguer l Carrer de Provença C. de Ballèn C. de Provença aD Diagonal Pau Claris C. d’Aribau C. de Rosselió 500 ft 0 C. de Sa nt Llu is C. de Te ro l C. de Ra m on y Joanic Ca jal Tra ve ss e ra d e G rà c ia C. de Gràc ia C. de Girona C. de Còrsega c FPO map C. de Còrsega Palau Baró De Quadras A [walking tour] vin C. del Rosseló g u d C. del Rosseló Pass eig de Gràc ia Rambla de Catalunya C. d’Enric FPO image C. de Cristófer Gràc ia C. de Balmes C. de Tuset Tra ve ss era de C. Sa nt M ar 0 C. de l’O r C . M oza rt C. Fs co C. Ma rti nez deGi ne r la Ro sa Co nó C . d e l To rre n t d e l’ O ll a C. d’Ar iba u Alfons X C. de la Forj a C . de M ar ià C ub i C. de Tánger C. de Sancho de Avila S A N T MA RT I Macaya. By this time you’re only three blocks from Gaudí’s Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família (set aside half the day for this masterpiece). Finish off the tour with a stroll over to Domènech i Montaner’s Hospital de Sant Pau, another Moderniste monument and a World Heritage Site. Tours are offered in English daily. BEST WALKING TOURS IN EUROPE / 11 e ra st de er ro ald Gr eif Kn ip sw e ss Str . le e r Al ra s s aue To r s t se nzl ra s P re Inv ali st den Volkspark Friedrichshain 2 b Lands Keep walking along Bethaniendamm and you’ll come to a colorful ramshackle wooden structure. This ue rP lat z FRIEDR ICHSHAIN chnri Hei Wa lde ma rtst r. se ha niend am vegetable plot S ch le s isc END he St ra ss e Ada lbe rstr . East Side Gallery . str A cobblestone path traces the course of the former border between East and West Berlin and illuminates the effects the Wall had on the city: it cut through streets, neighborhoods, and even buildings. Start at Potsdamer Platz, the heart of New Berlin, where the two halves of the formerly divided city have grown together and where a tiny stretch of the Berlin Wall still stands. Walk south along Stresemanstrasse ala en Half a day Str hl TIMING: ra s t r. t r. ns Mühlenstrasse r. Gitschiner Strasse Park am Gleisdreieck KR EUZBERG KREUZBERG is where a Turkish immigrant named Osman Kalin planted vegetables in the shadow of the Wall. Little did he know that this piece of land actually belonged to East Berlin but the Wall had missed it. His family still grows onions and cabbages on the plot. Even the most bizarre circumstances were normal in Cold War Berlin—and some of these oddities have survived the change of times. End the walk by crossing the Spree River at the Schilling Bridge. Turn right to walk ass str t ra sse ier ans nn Urb Pa .5 km e .5 mi 0 0 from Potsdamer Platz, and then head east along Niederkirchnerstrasse two blocks to the Checkpoint Charlie Museum. Continue east to the modest column engraved “He only wanted freedom,” in German, at Zimmerstrasse 15, commemorating Peter Fechter, an 18-year-old who was shot and killed while trying to escape to the West. Next wander to Engelbecken Pond and take in the views. tst Engelbecken Pond Bet s t r. r. an END: Potsdamer Platz nst elms em START: ark Mü ian n st es Wi l h Str BERLIN CITY CENTER BERLIN WALL TRAIL 5 lzm S t r. t r. ast n te image caption Ho ne- ns Seb r Stras se Leipziger Le ipz ige r. Krau se ns tr. Ko st Platz mm ob Sc hü tze ns tr. k an Ja da Zim me rst r. Nie de rki rch ne rst r. Ko ch str. e t l Checkpoint Zimmerstr. 15 A Charlie Walldeckpark column O ra Museum nie le e 5 An START 1 ne Potsdamer Platz r Al Hei POTSDAMER PLATZ Ma rkg rafe nst r. Ch ar lo tte ns tr. Fr ie dr ic hs tr. Tiergarten tz FPO map 1 MITTE [walking tour] Sc Str. de s 17 . Ju ni pla m Lu ise ns tra ss e FPO image ß h lo e rg e parallel to the river. Fast-forward on Mühlenstrasse to the famous East Side Gallery, where artists from all over the world decorated the 4,000-some-foot remaining stretch of wall with colorful murals. Unfortunately, a section was demolished to construct a riverside condo, and the future of this iconic piece of the wall remains unclear. BEST WALKING TOURS IN EUROPE / 12 Copyright © 2016 by Fodor’s Travel, a division of Random House LLC PHOTO CREDITS Cover, Massimo Colombo/iStockphoto. Washington D.C., idesignimages/iStockphoto. Barcelona, Ingenui/iStockphoto. Intro, Alberto Marangoni/iStockphoto. San Francisco, nito/Shutterstock. Berlin, Halie Cousineau/Fodor’s Travel. Chicago, Andrey Bayda/Shutterstock. Paris, S-F/Shutterstock. Back cover, kapitaen/iStockphoto. New Orleans, Ggoodrow/Dreamstime.com. London, Ronnybas/Dreamstime.com. New York City, Marc Venema/iStockphoto. Rome, Ross Brinkerhoff/Fodor’s Travel.