Coastal morphology of Rarotonga, Cook Islands
Transcription
Coastal morphology of Rarotonga, Cook Islands
CCOP/SOPAC Technical Report 65 October 1990 COASTAL MORPHOLOGY OF RAROTONGA, COOK ISLANDS by Bruce M Richmond Techsec Prepared for: South Pacific Applied Geoscience Commission (SOPAC) Training Programme; Coastal and Nearshore Programme, Cook Islands Project: CK.4 [3] TABLE OF CONTENTS Page SUMMARY ..................................................................................................................... 5 INTRODUCTION ......................................................................................................... ISLAND GEOLOGY .......................................................................................... 6 6 COASTAL MAPPING WORKSHOP - RESULTS Coastal Morphology Map of Rarotonga ........................................................... 6 Coastal Cross Sections and Beach Profiles ....................................................... 9 COASTAL MORPHOLOGY - DISCUSSION Coastal Plain ................................................................................................ Beaches Storm ............................................................................................. Ridge ............................................................................. 9 13 13 Inland Depression (Swamps) ............................................................. 30 Stream Channels .............................................................................. Fringing Reef .......................................................................................... 30 30 Reef Flat .................................................................................... 31 Reef Crest ..................................................................................... 31 Reef Passages Motu (Islets) .......................................................................... .................................................................................... 31 32 OBSERVATIONS OF COASTAL PROCESSES - DISCUSSION ............................ PRELIMINARY GEOHAZARD ASSESSMENT ............................................. 32 CONCLUSIONS ......................................................................................................... 36 ............................................................................................................ 37 Student-prepared descriptions for sediment samples ...................... 39 REFERENCES APPENDIX [TR65 - Richmond] 33 [4] LIST OF FIGURES Figure 1 Coastal morphology map of Rarotonga ......................................................... Page 7-8 2 Student-prepared coastal cross sections of Rarotonga ................................... 10-11 3 Student-prepared Rarotonga beach profiles .................................................. 12 4 Location of photographs shown in Plates ............................................... 14 5 Zones of potential geohazards of the Rarotonga coast .............................. 34 LIST OF PLATES Plate la Steep cobble beach face of the north coast near Pue ............................. 15 1b Eastern shoreline north of Ngatangiia .................................................. 16 1c Sand beach with small erosional backbeach scarp ....................................... 17 1d 2a 2b Wide sandy beach of west coast near Kavera ..................................... Sand and gravel mining operation at the mouth of Avana Stream ............... Southern coast east of Turoa Stream ........................................................ 18 3a Unconsolidated sandy gravel of storm ridge exposed at a construction site . 21 3b Unconsolidated sands of storm ridge near Arorangi on the west coast ...... 22 4 Remnants of a small flood delta on the reef flat .................................... 23 5a 5b Narrow reef flat north of Matavera Stream on the east coast .............. Wide reef flat near Aroa along the southwest coast ................................ 24 25 5c Storm-derived gravel bank near the International Airport ....................... 26 6a High-level reef limestone exposed along the north coast of Motutapu ..... 27 6b Close-up of coral colony in growth position ............................................. 28 6c Gravel and sand shoreline of southeast Motutapu ................................... 29 [TR65 - Richmond] 19 20 [5] SUMMARY Rarotonga is a steep-sided volcanic island with maximum elevation of about 650 m and encircled by Quaternary coastal landforms and deposits. The coastal zone can be divided into: (1) a coastal plain composed of storm ridges, beaches, and swampy inland depressions which are dissected by stream channels and flood plains, and (2) a fringing reef made up of a reef flat, reef crest, and six deep (as much as 20 m) passages; several small islets (motu) are developed on the reef flats. Storm ridge morphology, sediments, and elevation above the reef flat can be related to exposure. The highest storm ridges (as much as 7 m above sea level) occur along the north coast, the area most exposed to direct storm surges associated with tropical cyclones. The coarsest sediment (gravel) is distributed along the northeast coast where the narrowest reef flats exist. Except near the mouths of the larger streams, where terriginous detritus may predominate, most of the sediments of the beaches and reef flats are derived from adjacent reefs. Several potential geohazards of the Rarotonga coastal zone were identified during the study. These include overwash events of the coastal plain during storm surges associated with tropical cyclones, flooding of low-lying coastal areas during high intensity rainfalls, and shoreline erosion both natural and man-induced. [TR65 - Richmond] [6] INTRODUCTION This report presents (1) data collected during the fourth CCOP/SOPAC-USGS Coastal Mapping Workshop, (2) additional information based on subsequent visits by the author and, (3) other published data. This study provides information pertinent to part of SOPAC Work Programme project CK.4: "Study of sediments and sedimentary processes of beach, lagoon and adjacent offshore areas of Rarotonga, and other islands to assist with coastal management problems." The Workshop was held in Rarotonga, Cook Islands, from 15 to 17 July 1986. Twenty-one students representing eight member countries attended the workshop. Student exercises during the workshop included (1) mapping geological features of the coastal plain and fringing reef using aerial photographs, existing maps, and field inspections; (2) surveying cross-sections from the reef to the base of the alluvial fans and coastal terraces; (3) sediment sampling and description, interpretation of the sediment characteristics; (4) measuring beach profiles and probing of the beach to determine sediment thickness. ISLAND GEOLOGY Rarotonga is a relatively young volcanic island surrounded by a fringing reef. Basalts and phonolites from uppermost cone lavas have K-Ar ages between 1.8 and 1.2 m.y. (Dalrymple et al, 1975). The island rises 4000 m from the seabed and has a maximum elevation above sea level of about 650 m. The oval-shaped island is about 12 km long by 6.5 km wide with nearly 36 km of shoreline. Three major landform types occur: (1) a highly dissected and densely forested rugged volcanic interior; (2) a surrounding apron of terraces and alluvial fans; (3) a coastal plain and fringing reef of Quaternary deposits forming a near-continuous girdle around the island. COASTAL MAPPING WORKSHOP - RESULTS Coastal Morphology Map of Rarotonga A map (two sheets) showing the coastal morphology of Rarotonga is presented in Figure 1. The map (two sheets) is also available at a scale of 1:10,000 from the SOPAC Technical Secretariat, Suva, Fiji. This map is based on previously published information combined with the results of the Coastal [TR65 - Richmond] [7] Figure la. Coastal morphology of Rarotonga, sheet 1 of 2. [TR65 - Richmond] [8] Figure 1b. Coastal morphology of Rarotonga, sheet 2 of 2. [TR65 - Richmond] [9] Mapping Workshop. Features of the alluvial terraces, coastal plain, fringing reef, and offshore bathymetry are displayed on the map. The geology and morphology of the coastal zone are related to the soil type. The Muri soils are formed on the Holocene storm and beach ridges which encircle the island; the Vaikai and Ngatangiia soils form in swamps and depressions; the Avana, Takuvaine, Rutaki, and Matavera soils are developed from flood plain materials; and the Pouara and Nikao soils are terrace products (Leslie, 1980). Offshore bathymetry was taken from "Rarotonga Nearshore Bathymetry" - a CCOP/SOPAC-NZOI Miscellaneous Series Chart (Utanga and Lewis, 1981). Features of the reef flats and shorelines were interpreted from New Zealand Lands and Survey Department 1962 vertical aerial photographs. Additional shoreline and reef flat features are based on student field observations. Coastal Cross Sections and Beach Profiles The students, as members of teams, were required to produce a coastal cross section from the reef crest or as far seaward as was practicable, through the reef flat and coastal plain to the base of the alluvial deposits. The cross sections (Figures 2a and 2b) display the surficial geology and sample locations. The samples are described in the Appendix. Associated with the cross sections are beach profiles. The thickness of the beach sediment was determined by probing with an iron bar until bedrock (beachrock or limestone) was reached. The profiles are shown in Figure 3 (no probe data were collected along the E series cross sections). COASTAL MORPHOLOGY - DISCUSSION Coastal Plain The coastal plain of Rarotonga is composed of beaches, a prominent storm ridge and a swampy inland depression, all of which are dissected by occasional stream channels. It is bounded on its landward margin by alluvial fans and terraces and its seaward margin by a fringing reef. When viewed from the air or by sea it forms a conspicuous low-relief landform bordering the island; vertical relief is less than 10 m. [TR65 - Richmond] [13] Beaches The beaches of Rarotonga, which encircle almost the entire island, are composed predominantly of detrital carbonate sand and gravel with smaller amounts of terriginous sediment which may be locally important. In general the beaches are sandier along the south and west coasts, and contain more gravel along the north and east coasts (Appendix). Plate 1 (see Figure 4 for location of plates of photographs) illustrates beach variations around Rarotonga. Beach slope and grain sue tend to be inversely related to the width of the adjacent fringing reef - steep, gravel beaches where the reef is narrow (for example, the northeast coast) and flatter, sandier beaches next to the wider reef areas (for example, the south and west coasts). The majority of the beach sediments are composed of bioclastic carbonates primarily from corals, Halimeda, molluscs, echinoderms and calcareous algae. Usually only minor amounts of volcanic material occurs, but when present in larger proportions the sediment has a distinct "salt-and-pepper" appearance. Volcanic sediment comprises most of the material at the month of the Avana Stream (Plate 2a). Beachrock occurs at numerous localities around the island and typically its texture and composition mimics the nearby unconsolidated beach sediments. Beachrock forms intertidally at depth within the sediment column - its occurrence at the surface indicates overlying sediment has been removed. Beach sand mining over the last 20 years or so may have contributed to an increase in beachrock exposures. Much of the shoreline is armoured by artificial structures to prevent further erosion (Plate 2b). Storm Ridge A large ridge is a dominant feature of the coastal plain. It is composed mainly of unconsolidated carbonate sand and gravel (Plate 3; Aroa Sands of Wood and Hay, 1970). It varies in height from several metres on the south coast to about 7 m along the northeast and northwest coasts. The overall form is one of a single large ridge with occasional superimposed smaller ridges, although much of the original surface topography has been modified by human activity. The unconsolidated sediments of the ridge are indicative of their recent deposition, presumably under storm conditions. The variation in ridge elevation gives an indication of wave run-up height during storms and tropical cyclones. The higher ridges occur in areas most prone to tropical cyclone associated storm surge. Clast size of the ridge sediments are related to width of the adjacent reef flat. Gravel is the dominant material along the north and northeast coasts where the reef flat is narrow (< 100 m) and sand predominates elsewhere. [TR65 - Richmond] [30] Wood and Hay (1970) report a raised reef underlying portions of the Aroa Sands (storm ridge) along the north coast, however, this was not observed during the present study. Underlying in-situ reef implies either island uplift or reef formation under a relative higher sea level position. Inland Depression (Swamps) Between the storm ridge and the base of the alluvial fans is a flat-bottomed depression as much as several hundred metres wide and generally less than 1 metre deep. Mostly swamp-like in character, the depressions contain finer sediment than the adjacent ridges and are the sites of much taro cultivation (hence the common name of taro swamp). Many of the smaller streams draining the interior terminate at the depressions without a direct channel continning to the ocean. The storm ridge has created a barrier which impounds stream discharge resulting in inland swamp areas. Freshwater in the swamps may be responsible for dissolution of carbonate material thereby increasing swamp size. Stream Channels The larger streams, such as the Takuvaine, Avana, and Avatiu, maintain direct channels to the sea. They are typically bordered by narrow flood plains. Extensive, well-developed estuaries arc absent, however near the mouth of the Avana Stream some estuarine-like muds are present. The streams are ephemeral in character; most of the time exhibiting low flows which are punctuated by high discharge/rapid flooding events. Considering the island is mostly volcanic it is somewhat surprising volcanic sediment does not make up a larger proportion of beach material. This is due in part to stream discharge bypassing the fringing reef during floods - terriginous material is transported directly to deeper water via the reef passages. Small flood deltas may form on inner reef flats at the mouths of small streams (Plate 4). Flood deltas form by the rapid deposition of sediments during floods. Flow expansion as streams reach the reef flats causes them to deposit their sediment load. This material is later reworked commonly leaving behind a gravel lag deposit. Sand-size sediment is transported alongshore and added to the beaches. Fringing Reef The fringing reef varies from less than 30 m wide in the northeast to nearly 900 m in the vicinity of Taakoka Motu. Composed of a reef flat, reef crest, and reef front terrace, the fringing reef is continuous except for a few narrow passages (Avatiu, Avarua, Ngatangiia, Avaavaroa, Papua and [TR65 - Richmond] [31] Rutaki). Except near the passages, the fringing reef is shallow, ranging in depth between a few tens of centimetres to about 1.5 m at low water and is therefore a true fringing reef. Reef Flat The reef flat is a low-relief surface extending from the beach to the reef crest (Plate 5). It usually has a broad, shallow, shore-parallel channel or moat. Sediment cover is sporadic, generally thin, and tends to be greater on the inner reef flat areas. Most of the sediment is skeletal carbonates from corals, Halimeda, calcareous red algae, molluscs, and echinoderms of sand and gravel size. Fine sediment is quickly removed from the reef flat by waves and currents. There is sparse coverage by live corals and occasional Porites microatolls. At Muri Lagoon near Ngatangiia Passage there are dense colonies of free-living, spherical, massive, and branching rhodoliths (calcareous red algae) and coralliths (corals, Scoffin et al, 1985). The reef flat can be broadly subdivided into outer and inner zones. The outer reef flat is composed mostly of coral rubble, scattered small coral colonies and coralline algae typically overlying a pavement-like surface. The inner reef flat typically contains more sand-size sediment and in deeper areas seagrass and other marine flora occur. Reef Crest The reef crest is slightly elevated above the reef flat and typically is a substrate of encrusting corals and bioclasts bound primarily by encrusting coralline algae. Because of its position as the highest part of the reef it receives most of the incoming wave energy. Sediment cover is very sparse and is restricted to small pockets of poorly sorted coarse material. Shallow borings (less than 3 m) through the reef crest on the north coast (Yonekura et al, 1984) show a vertical stratigraphy composed of interbedded algal pavement, rigid framework of coral heads, and reef rubble. Seaward of the reef crest depth increases rapidly to a depth between 17 and 20 m to the reef front terrace which extends out to sea for 200 m to 600 m, (Lewis et al, 1980). Reef Passages The reef passages around the island are narrow (3-60 m) steep-sided, flat-bottomed channels. Their position along the coast can be related to seaward extensions of antecedant terrestrial drainage systems. Depths range from a few metres near the shore to 10-20 m opposite the reef crest. Outside the reef the single channel branches into numerous intertwining grooves developed within a broad trough. According to Lewis et al, (1980) sediment type and channel configuration vary between the [TR65 - Richmond] [32] south and north coasts. The Avarua and Avatiu Passages (north coast) are floored by sand rich in rounded coral and basalt pebbles, and are somewhat wider and shallower than the southern passages, which are floored by a more immature Halimeda-rich sand plus coral pebbles. Whereas all the other channels essentially flow directly across the reef flat, the channel at Ngatangiia meanders from its origins near the mouth of Avana Stream. Sediment, consisting of basaltic sand and gravel and reefal carbonates, is perched near the rim of the channel. Infilling of the channel has been dramatic since the turn of the century (Kirk, 1980), primarily due to the clearing of land within the Avana watershed. Motu (Islets) Several motu are developed on the reef flats, most notably along the southeast comer of the island. Three of the motu (Motutapu, Oneroa, and Koromiri) are composed of detrital reefal carbonates while the other motu (Taakoka) is volcanic in origin. High-level reefal limestone (Plate 6) is exposed on the northern portion of Motutapu and across Ngatangiia Harbour. Rising as much as 3 m above sea level the limestone was probably formed during the last interglacial (Stoddart, 1972). The motu typically are fronted by coral rubble on their seaward borders and broad sandy calcareous beaches on their lagoon margins. A small motu (Motutoa) occurs on the north coast reef flat near the Rarotonga International Airport. OBSERVATIONS OF COASTAL PROCESSES - DISCUSSION Wave processes dominate sediment transport within the fringing reef. Wave set-up at the reef crest increases water level in the lagoon. Wave-generated currents flow alongshore until they reach topographic lows (passages) and develop into a seaward return flow. The passages therefore are ebb dominant during most tidal stages. Lineations of coral and sediment on the reef flat define transport pathways during storms. The lineations trend normal to the reef crest for most of their distance, veering more parallel to the coast near the shoreline. Under these transport conditions, sediment (primarily reef-derived) can be expected to move landward and then be redistributed alongshore by short-period waves generated within the shallow lagoons. Once sediment reaches the head of a passage it is transported offshore and lost from the nearshore reef system. The direction and strength of the nearshore currents varies with changes in the wave climate. Nearshore current studies near Ngatangiia passage (Kirk, 1980) under "typical" southeast (non-storm) tradewind conditions indicated a dominant northward flow with velocities sufficient to regularly transport sand and intermittently transport gravel. The extensive colonies of coralliths and rhodoliths in this area indicate reasonably strong currents. [TR65 - Richmond] [33] Sediment movement during tropical cyclones is often significant, both in terms of volume and transport distance (Cowan and Utanga, 1987). The gravel-covered storm ridge along the north and east shore demonstrate the ability of these storms to move boulder-size coral blocks several hundred metres to heights as great as 7 m above present sea level. Tropical cyclones with sustained winds of 80 knots can be expected to occur every 20 years (Carter, 1984), with the strongest winds usually attacking the north coast. The coastal plain storm ridges are constructional features built by successive storm overwash. Schofield (1970) described them as prograding with the oldest deposits along their landward margin. Field evidence (for example, buried multiple landward-dipping soil horizons; e.g. Plate 3b) suggests a substantial component of vertical accretion occurs during overwash events. Sediments of the ridges are similar to the sediment type of the adjacent beach - the probable source in addition to the reef flats. In summary, the ridges have grown laterally and vertically during the Holocene primarily during low-frequency 'catastrophic' events in which reef and beach sediments are deposited inland. Deposits formed entirely by wind action are rare or absent - perhaps the only aeolian deposits are on the broad low-lying coastal plain near the Rarotongan Hotel on the southwest corner of the island. The area is a cuspate headland probably built by sediment transported from east to west along the south coast and from sediment moving south along the west coast. Fine sand inland could be wind-blown. In summary sediment transport in the coastal zone is influenced by several parameters including: (1) southeast tradewind conditions which impart a general east to west transport direction, (2) wave set-up at the reef crest promotes a landward gravity-driven circulation, (3) seaward return flow at reef passages which can lead to significant local reversals of the 'normal' east to west transport and (4) variations from tradewind conditions, especially during westerlies and cyclones, when transport reversals and sediment redistribution occur. PRELIMINARY GEOHAZARD ASSESSMENT Geohazards in the Rarotonga coastal zone include shoreline erosion, overwash events of the storm ridge during cyclones, and flooding of low-lying areas during intense rains. The distribution of potential geohazards are shown in Figure 5. This preliminary map is based on relationships between the local geology and coastal processes involved in the formation of the deposits. [TR65 - Richmond] [35] Based on observations made in 1926, Marshall (1930) noted "...for almost the complete circuit of Rarotonga the coast was a dazzling white sandy beach...". He also mentioned a short section of coast near Matavera where the beach was formed of cobbles and coral rock. Erosion of the shoreline and subsequent engineering attempts to protect the shore has modified the coast since Marshall's observations. Sand mining has occurred intermittently along the coastline of Rarotonga, particularly at stream months along the south coast. Much of the present southern shoreline is armoured to protect roads and buildings (Figure 1). Poorly designed engineering structures (for example, vertical seawalls) may be further contributing to coastal erosion (Byrne, 1984) by increasing scour and preventing deposition. Shorelines mapped as unstable or eroding in Figure 5 exhibited beachrock, undermined coastal vegetation, beach scarps, and coastal protection works. Moderately stable shorelines are fronted by wide "healthy" beaches or shorelines not showing signs of erosion. Beaches act as a buffer between the land and sea - retreating during storms and building out in times of fair weather. An interruption of the local sediment budget reduces the effectiveness of beaches to protect the coast. The entire coastal plain of Rarotonga is potentially subject to overwash during storm surge associated with tropical cyclones. The higher/coarser ridges are probably indicative of more intense overwash events. Height of the ridges is related to the effects of succesive overwash; the higher ridges are formed by more frequent and higher storm surges. The gravel ridges are a function of source material and attest to the power of the storm surges. The overwash prone areas are subdivided into either a sand or gravel phase in Figure 5. Flood plain deposits are formed by stream overflow during high intensity rainfall. Short period extreme rainstorms are very important as they are the primary cause of severe soil erosion and high surface runoff. A 50 year return period rainfall for Rarotonga can be expected to provide 328 mm in a 24 hour period (Thompson, 1986). During such a rainstorm inland erosion would be high, stream channels are likely to overflow, and large volumes of sediment would be deposited on the flood plains and transported to the coast. If a severe rainstorm coincides with high storm surges major flooding of low-lying coastal areas could result. The flood prone areas shown in Figure 5 are based on the flood plain and swamp deposits shown in Figure 1. [TR65 - Richmond] [36] CONCLUSIONS 1. In a relatively short period of time (weeks) using aerial photographs, field observations, and published information it is possible to prepare coastal maps that are useful to geologists, engineers, and planners. Information mapped during the workshop included coastal morphology and sedimentology, shoreline stability, sand and gavel deposits, and observations regarding nearshore processes. 2. The coastal zone of Rarotonga consists of a coastal plain and fringing reef. The coastal plain is made up of swampy inland depressions, storm ridges as much as 7 m above sea level, beaches composed of sand with lesser amounts of gravel, and stream channels and their associated flood plains. The fringing reef is made up of a low-relief reef flat, slightly-elevated reef crest, and reef passages as much as 20 m deep. 3. Most of the sediments of the fringing reef, beaches, and storm ridges are carbonate material. Volcanic derived sediments form a minor component except near the larger stream months. 4. Potential sand and gravel resources are limited to the coastal plain and reef passages. The reef flats are covered by a patchy distribution of thin sediment veneers. However, the reef flat pavement is a potential source of armour for shoreline revetments and may be underlain by unconsolidated sediment. 5. Extensive areas of the Rarotonga shoreline, particularly along the southern coast, are armoured to prevent further coastal erosion. Causes of the erosion include previous sand mining of the foreshore and coastal engineering structures which disrupt longshore sediment transport and enhance scouring of the foreshore. 6. Nearshore circulation is primarily a wave-driven phenomena and varies with changes in wave climate and the passage of storm fronts. In general, wave set-up at the reef crest creates a shoreward flowing current. Water is returned seaward mostly through the deep passages which are ebb dominiant features. 7. Coastal plain storm ridge height and sediment size can be related to exposure; the highest ridges occur from the northwest to the northeast where storm surge is usually greatest and the coarsest ridges occur along the northeast coast where the fringing reef is narrowest. 8. Geohazards of the coastal zone include storm surge overwash of the coastal plain, flooding associated with high intensity rainfalls, and coastal erosion both natural and man-induced. [TR65 - Richmond] [37] REFERENCES Byrne, R.V. 1984. Assessment of coastal management, Rarotonga, Cook Islands. CCOP/SOPAC Cruise Report 102: 45 pages. Carter, R. 1984. Baseline study for coastal management coastal engineering study at Ngatangiia Harbour and Muri Bay, Rarotonga, Cook Islands. CCOP/SOPAC Cruise Report 100: 16 pages. Cowan, G. and Utanga, A. 1987. The effects of Cyclone Sally on Rarotonga. Paper presented at CCOP/SOPAC Coastal Processes Workshop, Lae, Papua New Guinea, 1-7 October, 1987. Dalrymple, G.B.; Jarrard, R.D. and Clague, D.A. 1975. K-Ar ages of some volcanic rocks from the Cook and Austral Islands. Geologic Society of America, Bulletin 86: 1463-1467. Kirk, R.M. 1980. Sedimentation in Ngatangiia Harbour and Muri Lagoon, Rarotonga, Cook Islands. Unpublished report to South Pacific Commission and the Government of the Cook Islands. Leslie, D.M. 1980. Soil Map of Rarotonga, Cook Islands Scale 1:10,000. New Zealand Soil Bureau, Map 163. Lewis, K.B.; Utanga, A.T.; Hill, P.J.; and Kingan, S.G. 1980. The origin of channel-fill sands and gravels on an algal-dominated reef terrace, Rarotonga, Cook Islands. South Pacific Marine Geological Notes 2(1): 1-23. Marshall, P. 1930. Geology of Rarotonga and Atiu. Bernice P. Bishop Museum, Bulletin 72: 75 pages. Schofield, J.C. 1970. Notes on Late Quaternary sea levels, Fiji and Rarotonga. New Zealand Journal Geology & Geophysics 13: 199-206. Sciffin, T.P.; Stoddart, D.R.; Tudhope, A.W.; and Woodroffe, C. 1985. Rhodoliths and coralliths of Muri Lagoon, Rarotonga, Cook Islands. Coral Reefs 4: 71-80. Stoddart, D.R. 1972. Reef Islands of Rarotonga. Atoll Research Bulletin 160: 1-7. Thompson, C. 1986. The climate and weather of the southern Cook Islands. New Zealand Meteorological Service, Miscellaneous Publication 188(2): 69 pages. Utanga, A.T. and Lewis, K.B. 1981. Rarotonga Nearshore Bathymetry 1:20,000. CCOP/SOPAC Miscellaneous Chart series 1 (also New Zealand Oceanographic Institute, Chart Miscellaneous series 56). Wood, B.L. and Hay, R.F. 1970. Geology of the Cook Islands. New Zealand Geological Survey, Bulletin N.S. 82: 103 pages. Yonekura, N.; Matsushima, Y.; Maeda, Y.; and Kayanne, H. 1984. Holocene sea-level changes in the southern Cook Islands. Report of the HIPAC Project : 113-133. [TR65 - Richmond] [39] APPENDIX Student-prepared Descriptions for Sediment Samples Collected in the Rarotonga Coastal Zone SAMPLE A1-1 LOCATION GRAIN SIZE SORTING REMARKS reef crest coarse Sand and gravel very poorly Algae encrusted coral fragments 2 reef flat coarse sand and granules poorly Carbonate sand from broad trough 3 inner reef flat coarse sand and gravel very poorly 4 beach coarse sand well Some basalt grains 5 coastal plain coarse sand well 25m from beach 6 coastal plain corase sand well 250m inland reef crest coarse sand and gravel very poorly Coral gravel 2 reef flat very coarse sand poorly Shallow trough 3 inner reef flat medium sand very poorly Mixture of volcanic and carbonate 4 beach medium sand poorly Some basalt grains 5 coastal plain medium-fine sand well 25m from beach Harbour dredgings fine sand well Dark coloured Harbour dredgings coarse sand and gravel poorly Volcanics/carbonate mixture Coastal swamp mud well Brown soil A2-1 A3-1 3 B1-1 Poorly Carbonate sand with halimeda reef crest medium sand pebbles 2 reef flat medium sand Poorly 10% volcanics 3 beach medium sand well 20%volcanics 4 coastal plain silt well [TR65 - Richmond] Some volcanics brown soil [40] SAMPLE B2-1 LOCATION GRAIN SIZE SORTING reef crest fine coarse sand 2 reef flat fine sand 3 beach fine sand well volcanic/carbonate mixture 4 coastal plain silty sand well brown soil w/coral gravel reef crest fine - very coarse sand poorly some coral gravel 2 reef flat fine sand well some volcanics 3 Beach medium sand well 20% volcanics 4 coastal plain medium sand well volcanic/carbonate mixture mid-channel med-coarse sand moderately thin sediment cover 6 channel margin fine-coarse sand poorly thin sediment cover 7 reef flat fine-very coarse sand poorly thin sediment cover beach med-coarse sand moderately minor gravel of coral and molluscs 3 coastal plain medium sand poorly near beach 15 edge of swamp silty coarse sand poorly brown soil 16 edge of swamp muddy sand moderately soil and organics 17 coastal plain coarse sand poorly near landward limit (-1) mid-channel very coarse sand poorly some coral gravel (-2) reef flat med sand moderately some shell gravel (-3) beach gravelly sand poorly some shell and halimeda (-4) beach gravelly sand poorly some coral and halimeda (-5) mid islet gravelly sand poorly coral, gravel (-11) reef crest gravelly sand poorly rich in coral and urchin spines B3-1 C1-5 C2-1,2 poorly REMARKS well [TR65 - Richmond] some coral gravel somevolcanics [41] SAMPLE C3-1,2 LOCATION SORTING GRAIN SIZE REMARKS beach fine-coarse sand moderately rich in halimeda, some coral 3 coastal plain med-coarse sand well pale gray 4 coastal plain fine-coarse sand poorly dark gray 5 coastal plain fine sand well some coral gravel D3-1 beach fine sand well carbonate/volcanic mixture 2 beach fine sand well " 3 beach medium sand moderately " " 4 beach coarse sand well " " 5 beach fine sand-pebble poorly " " 6 reef flat fine sand-pebble very poorly all carbonate 7 reef crest fine sand-pebble very poorly all carbonate D2-1 beach fine sand very well slight volcanics 2 beach fine sand very well slight volcanics 3 beach very fine sand very well trace volcanics 4 beach medium sand moderately tracevolcanics 5 reef flat coarse sand poorly all carbonate coarse sand poorly all carbonate 6 D1-1 beach fine sand very well 2 beach fine sand well carbonate 3 beach fine sand well carbonate [TR65 - Richmond] " slight volcanics " [42] SAMPLE LOCATION E1-1 reef crest sandy gravel very poorly red-algae encrusted coral gravel 2 reef flat gravelly coarse sand poorly some coral and shells 3 beach (scarp) very coarse sand moderately 4 beach coarse sand well some halimeda and volcanics 5 coastal plain fine sand very well near beach 6 coastal plain fine sand very well dark soil 7 coastal plain fine sand well dark soil 8 coastal plain fine sand very well dark soil reef crest sandy gravel very poorly red-algae encrusted coral gravel 2 reef flat gravelly sand very poorly some coral gravel 3 beach very coarse sand poorly some coral fragments 4 coastal plain fine sand well dark soil reef crest sandy gravel very poorly mostly coral and shell fragments 2 reef flat sandy gravel very poorly coral and shell gravel 3 reef flat very coarse sand poorly minor coral and shell material 4 beach (scarp) very coarse sand poorly some halimeda 5 beach coarse sand moderately carbonate sand 6 coastal plain fine sand well near beach 7 coastal plain fine sand well dark soil E2-1 E3-1 GRAIN SIZE SORTING [TR65 - Richmond] REMARKS abundant halimeda