Moore Fixture Blocks - streffp-chs

1"- 2" - 3" BLOCKS HAVE (4 total) TAPPED 1/4" X 20 in 1" thick face alone
AND (2) TAPPED HOLES 3/8" X 16 IN 1" THICKNESS AS SHOWN. BLOCKS
ALSO HAVE (6) DRILLED 25/64" HOLES WITH (8) 9/16" COUNTER-BORES
FOR 3/8" SHCS, AS SHOWN. I ALSO HAVE A SET OF 4 TOOLMAKER MADE
BLOCKS ON ALMOST IDENTICAL TO THESE!~ MADE OF HARDENED
AND PRECISION GROUND TOOL STEEL BLOCKS MEASURES 1.005"
THICK x 2.005" WIDE X 3.0005" TALL.
NEXT ARE (4) BLOCKS THAT MEASURE 1"+ (1.005") THICK X 11/4"+ (1.255") TALL AND ARE 1-1/2" (1.500") LONG. EACH HAS
(5) TAPPED 1/4" X 20 HOLES WITH DRILLED HOLES 17/64" AND
COUNTER-BORES OF 13/32" FOR 1/4" SOCKET HEAD
CAPSCREWS.
NEXT ARE (6) BLOCKS THAT MEASURE 7/8"+ (.885") THICK X
1-1/4"+ (1.255") TALL X 1-1/2" (1.500") LONG. SAME DRILL AND
TAP PATTERN AS THE 4 ABOVE!!!
(4) 2" (2.000") THICK X 2" (2.000") WIDE X 2" (2.000")
LONG. YOU GET 4 ALL PRECISION GROUND WITH
PRECISION GROUND CHAMFERS ALSO! ALL 4 ARE IN
GOOD USED CONDITION AS SHOWN. BLOCKS HAVE (1) THRU DRILLED
7/8" HOLES. BLOCKS ALSO HAVE (24 TOTAL) TAPPED #10 X 32 HOLES.
ALL 4 HAVE VERY MINOR MARKS AND STAINS FROM USE AS SHOWN.
ALL HAVE GREEN PAINT AS SHOWN? WHILE USED THESE STILL HAVE
LOTS OF LIFE LEFT
DOG LEG WITH A 3/8" X 1" STEM SHANK. FEDERAL DOVETAIL
CLAMP IS ALSO INCLUDED AS SHOWN. OVERALL LENGTH WHEN
STRAIGHT IS 3-3/4" LONG. VERY NICE FOR "SWINGING" HOLES OR
"SWINGING CENTER" WITH A GOOD TEST INDICATOR. I ALSO USED A
MITUTOYO TEST INDICATOR
GRIND CUBES BLOCKS OR PARALLELS (2) 2" WIDE X 2" TALL X 8" LONG WITH (50)
TAPPED 3/8" X 16 HOLES IN EACH AS SHOWN!!!! THESE FURTHER HAVE (28) DRILLED
17/32" WITH 3/4" COUNTER-BORES! MADE OF HARDENED TOOL STEEL AND
PRECISION GROUND TOOL STEEL
WHEEL DRESSER SINE SLIDE DIAMOND DRESSER ON A 2" CENTER
DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ROLLS. AMERICAN TOOLMAKER MADE.
COMES WITH NEW (1) 3/8" SINGLE POINT DIAMOND IN NEW
CONDITION. TOOL COMES WITH (3) TOTAL DIAMONDS ONE IS A USED
NORTON BC3-6 ALL 3/8" SHANK DIAMETER. LOCKING
DEVICE WORKS VERY WELL TO LOCK THE ANGLE. NO RUST ON
THIS BEAUTIFULL TOOL!!!!!! TOOL HAS "SINE X 2.0" + .300" =
ANGLE" AND OTHER STACK DIMENSIONS STAMPED INTO RECESSES
AS SHOWN. ALSO STAMPED INTO RECESS ON END IS FORMER
OWNERS NAME.
THIS IS USED ON SURFACE GRINDERS WITH MAGNETIC CHUCKS TO
DRESS BOTTOMS AND SIDES OF GRINDING WHEELS AT A
PRECISEANGLE FOR PRECISE GRINDING APPLICATIONS WHEN
USED WITH MAGNETIC CHUCK ON CORRECT MACHINE. BASE
(1) MEASURES 3.010" WIDE x 3.090" LONG AND IS 2-1/16" TALL OVER
THE SLIDE. SLIDE MOVEMENT IS APPX. 1" TO 1-1/2" APPX OF
TRAVEL. MOORE TOOL ALSO OFFERS A SIMILAR UNIT AT $3000
EACH
MOORE TOOLS #3070-A EDGE FINDERS IN EXCELLENT USED
CONDITION.
THIS EDGE FINDER MOORE EDGE FINDER INDICATES
LESS THAN A .0001" EVERYWHERE AND IS PERFECT.
CERTAINLY AN ORIGINAL MOORE
Item # 3070-A Edgefinder, Inch
$5,100.00
Edgefinder, Inch
Size and location of holes and length and width of parts can be determined
precisely with the edge finder using inherent accuracy of Moore Jig Borer and Jig
Grinder lead screws for measuring and an indicator as a comparator.
Slot dimension : 0.400"
BLOCK MEASURES 2.9675" TALL X 3.460" WIDE X 5.953" LONG. GRIND
CUBE OR BLOCK HAS (15 ) TAPPED 1/4" X20 HOLES IN TOP PLATE AS
SHOWN. TOP PLATE THEN HAS (12 TOTAL) TAPPED 1/4" X 20 HOLES IN
SIDES AND ENDS SO TOTAL TAPPED 1/4" X 20 HOLES IS 27
The Wiggler
By Mike Rehmus
The Wiggler is a pointer that can be accurately and easily located on the centerline of the longitudinal
axis of the spindle to which is attached.
Wigglers are used to indicate the axis of the spindle to which they are temporarily attached. In
practice, with the spindle turning at about 1000 rpm, the probe is centered (described later) and
then the user visually centers the workpiece under the spindle (or the reverse).
By carefully observing the relationship of the probe and the workpiece, the user can center the
workpiece within one or two thousandths of an inch.
Wigglers usually come in a small kit with a body and four or five probes, each of which have a
ball on one end that fits into a collet on the body. The collet can be tightened, adjusting the
socket/ball fit so that the tool will work properly.
One of the probes is bent, with a relatively large ball on the end. This probe is to hold a dial
indicator.
To use, pick a probe with an end appropriate to the indication required. If you want to pick up a
scribed center mark on the workpiece, you would use the pointed probe.
Once you have the probe snapped into the body, tighten the collet until a fair amount of friction
is felt. Do not lock the robe in the body.
Next mount the body in the spindle and center the probe with your fingers. Then start the spindle
at about 1000 rpm (with your hands away from the business end of the Wiggler). You will
probably observe that the probe is now spinning nearly horizontal (the collet is too loose) or it is
spinning in a near-perfect and small circle along the spindle axis. Using an object like a pencil
(ideal), press the pencil on the side of the probe down near the business end. Press in towards the
spindle axis and you will observe several phenomena:
The probe will move to absolute center of the spindle.
2. It will be hard to move the probe off center with the pencil.
or
3. If the socket was too loose, the probe is now emulating a helicopter blade. If so, stop the
spindle and tighten the collet more, reset the probe in the vertical position, start the spindle again.
Repeat the previous alignment procedure.
Now that the probe is running aligned with the spindle, you can use it to align the workpiece or
spindle to the proper location.
In practice, when aligning a center point, I find it useful to observe the sharp probe/workpiece
relationship with a magnifying glass and from at least two locations 90 degrees apart. Sometimes
I try to look at the relationship every 45 degrees or so. Done carefully, you can achieve an
alignment within one or two thousandths of an inch.
The Wiggler has a couple of probes with balls on the end. These are used just like you would an
edge-finder except these are not self-resetting. That is, when you touch the workpiece with these
probles, them start emulating a helicopter blade. Still, they are quite useful and if you have a
Wiggler, you don't need to also purchase an Edge Finder too. The smaller ball, at 0.100"
diameter can get into smaller places than the other 0.200" ball.
When using the bent probe to hold an indicator, the socket has to be locked rigid.
Mill-Spec Dominos
by George M. Carlson
Home Metal Shop Club - Houston, TX
This is a great gift idea for those metal workers out there that would like to make something for a friend
who does not have a need for a steam engines, dial indicator holder, or a brass hammer.
I live in Texas where playing Dominos in the back of the feed store is quite popular. I made
several sets and packaged them in nice wooden boxes for Christmas presents a few years back.
See the Details (70K)
This shows a few of the dominos sitting on the compound of my lathe. They are made of 6061T651 Aluminum Alloy. Do not use 2024 or 7075, they do not anodize very well. I purchased the
material in 1 / 2 by 1" bar stock. The Domino blanks were sawed 2" long on a table saw with a
cut-off box. My saw did a good job, and it was not necessary to clean-up the ends on the mill. A
little WD-40 helps the saw do it's job without clogging. A twelve foot bar will make two sets
plus spares.
Next, edges of the blanks are softened on the belt sander. Ends are dressed and grained, as well
as the sides. Again, a little WD-40 on the sanding belt prevents the belt from "burning" the
aluminum. The blanks should be nice and shiny with smooth even graining.
Wrap the blanks up carefully to prevent scratching and take them to an anodizer. Anodizing is
generally not the sort of thing you would want to do at home. Tell the anodizer what you are up
to. The shop I went to anodized eight sets for free, after I told him I would give him one of the
finished sets. Black is the best color, but almost any color is available. Once the blanks are
anodized, cut the line across the middle using a slitting saw or other suitable cutter. I used a gear
cutter because it left the groove with a small radius at the bottom. A narrow kerf blade in the
table saw would work well.
See the Details (53K)
The jig for cutting the dots is shown in the second photo. This jig is not necessary, but it makes
the production of multiple sets much easier and error free.
Two type 601 De-Sta-Co clamps are used to hold the Domino blank against the delrin stops.
Note the use of nylon screws as bumpers in the clamps. The fourteen holes drilled in the fixture
are used to index the fourteen possible dot locations on the top of the Domino. It is necessary to
load the Domino blank into the fixture just one time, making it less likely for the Domino to get
scratched during production. To use the fixture, a plate, with a pin that fits the holes in the jig, is
clamped in the milling machine or drill press. The index pin is carefully lined-up with the
machine spindle. The dots are cut with a .250" diameter ball end mill to a depth of .100". See
photo 3. It is a good idea to use a lubricant such as Tapmatic for Aluminum. This will help
produce a bright dot and lesson the chance of producing a burr.
Wash the Dominos in dish washing soap and dry thoroughly. It is a good idea to treat the
finished Dominos to a light coat of wax. To do this, thin a small amount of paste wax with
mineral spirits. Apply liberally and wipe off excess. After the wax has dried, buff the Dominos
with a soft cloth.
A beautiful set of Dominos such as these need to be kept in a nice container. For the sets I gave
as gifts, I made boxes from Teak with an inlaid figure in the lid. The inlay? The silhouette of the
state of Texas.
See the Details (63K)