Sept Oct Dennis 08 Blitz

Before
Inside
Inside this
this issue:
issue:
Long Term Opel Ownership 1990-2008
Vintage Car Insurance
Tech: Body Panel Replacement
Tech: How to Build a Targa
Tech: Plug Welding & Fiberglass Epoxy
Volume 28, Issue 5
Sept/Oct 2008
Welcome to the Opel Motorsport Club
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ON THE COVER:
Face: Targa GT ’Reborn’
Upper right: Before!
Letter From The Historian
Inspiration: any influence to create thought or action.
Webster’s Dictionary
My Story of Inspiration
When I first began with Opels in the early 1980s my inspiration was seeing and being seen at the local cruise strip. I did
more than my fair share of Street -Racing and was into just having some plain ol’ fun with my hot -rod 1974 Manta. In 1990 I
attended my first OMC event held at the Laguna Seca raceway in Monterey, CA. While at the event my inspiration drastically
changed. I spied a super clean silver 1969 GT with red interior GT, then owned by OMC founder Rick Graham. Right then
and there I decided to build a first-class GT of my own. I had recently purchased an extremely abused and worn out ‘73 GT to
do a quick fix and sell on, so it became the candidate. The restoration process took me until 1994 to finish when I debuted my
GT at that years OMC Picnic. Over the next 6 years I took my GT to every OMC event I could. Life was good.
Then it happened. In 2000, while Caravanning down to the 20th anniversary OMC picnic, with only a few miles left to
travel, my GT was rear ended by another OMC club member. Enter... Opel-Depression. My ‘73 Manta restoration project was
on instant hold. My enjoyment of anything Opel-related, plummeted. There, in my garage, the GT sat alone, dented and
twisted. The sheet metal of upper deck lid was twisted and torn, the tail lamp panel was punched in, a couple lamps were
busted and the right rear fender was buckled.
Over the next 5 years I struggled my way through setbacks which further slowed repairs. I found a NOS tail lamp panel, paid
for it, only to have the seller back out of the sale. My friend sold his body shop and with it went my favorite painter. I located
two reproduction tail lamp and upper deck panels in Germany. However, they took over one year to arrive. Then before the
reproduction panels arrived I located another NOS tail lamp panel. I subsequently sold the reproduction pieces. Luckily I was
also able to find a broken and rusted rear trim strip on a GT in a local wrecking yard. It was repairable, but required some
serious welding magic. Lastly I located a NOS brake lamp lens, lens housing and a new back up light lens.
What finally brought me out of Opel-Depression was the 25th anniversary OMC Picnic. The decision was made, I had to get
back on track and fix the GT. I spent the better part of spring and early summer ‘05, cutting, welding and rebuilding the GT
body. During my re-restoration I did run into one major setback. Hidden under the paint on the top rear of the passenger
door was small defect that would soon rear its ugly head! Unfortunately, it did not appear until ‘after’ the GT came back from
paint, the first time! Now what? With the OMC picnic less than 2 months away I had little choice but to disassemble the GT a
second time, repair the passenger door and send her off to paint a second time.
After paint, the second time, I spent hundreds of hours reassembling the body. I upgraded the rear drum brakes to disk,
re-polished numerous aluminum items, replaced non-critical bolts with stainless steel fasteners, powder coated small engine
and EFI brackets and restored a cracked 2.4L valve cover that I had purchased in Germany. I almost didn’t make it. I finished
repairing an electrical gremlin the GT the night before making the 400 mile trip down for the OMC picnic.
Since then I have again been able to enjoy my GT on a few fun runs and have attended a number of local car shows. The
most recent show I attended was the Altamont Cruisers car show in Livermore, CA. Next year I am planning on making the
14+ hour drive from CA to WA to attend the Opel-Nationals in Tacoma, WA. Hopefully the weather next year will be as
perfect as it was this year.
I hope that my little story has motivated a few of you to rekindle your Opel projects. As of this writing, I’m again working on
my ‘73 Manta. I have still have a long way to go,... but I know I’ll get there.
Dennis G.
In this issue you will find a Tech Article on repairing just this type of common accident damage.
Dented and
Twisted.
Summer of
2000.
“I Think
I Can Fix
That!”
(Movie quote
from
‘Doc Hollywood’)
1973 Opel GT - Targa
One member’s Ups and Downs of vintage Opel ownership!
Restoration of any vintage car has never been easy, however some automobiles are more of a challenge to bring back to life
than others. Many of our readership has seen my GT at previous OMC events, however few know of its history. This GT
started life in a class 5 condition. Most Opel owners, viewing my GT, after I purchased it might have quoted from Beowulf
and said, “Abandon all hope... Ye who enter here”, but to quote Paul Harvey, “and now you know,... the rest of the story”.
Back in 1990 when I obtained my 73 GT I had no intention of keeping it. A long time friend owed me $200 so I took his GT
as payment in full. All I wanted was to fix the problems and sell it fast. At the time I already owned a restored ‘74 Manta and
a restored ‘72 Kadett: What did I want with an Opel GT? Heresy! Heresy, I can hear some of your say… “Why would you not
want a GT?” Well, my first car was a 74 Manta rallye, my second car was a 74 Manta, I had worked on many friends Mantas
and knew them inside and out. Couple my familiarity with the Opel Manta to the fact that the first GT I ever laid eyes on was
cut 6 inches shorter in the back, had a piece of plywood for a tail light panel with Ford Pinto tail lights and you might understand why I was not impressed with the Opel GT.
However this battered and neglected GT began to grow on me.
Later that year I learned of OMC and attended their Picnic at
Laguna Sega raceway. I attended with both my Manta and Kadett
(driven by my friend), when I spied a beautiful silver 1969 GT with
red interior, then owned by OMC president Rick Graham. During
this event I also met Gil of Opel GT Source. So now I had a source
for GT parts. Up to then I had purchased all my parts from either
Economy Imports in San Jose, CA or at our local Pick-n-Pull.
Below: Rick Graham’s silver and red 1969 GT
Right Top:
My GT
with my
1972
Kadett.
Right:
My GT
1990 with
my 1974
Manta in
the drive
way.
Spring 1990
That OMC event and the Opel GT Source catalog got me to thinking: Why not build a custom GT out of the one I have? So I
decided to restore the GT rather than sell it. I had a long road to hoe, as this GT had numerous body damages. The damage
list included: Bent front driver and passenger fenders, can opened drivers door and quarter panel, badly dented roof above
the drivers door, a bent tail lamp panel with cracks around the bumper mounts, bent upper deck lid, bent passenger rear
quarter panel and bent hood. The only sheet metal that was unscathed was the nose panel, passenger door and floor pan. The
body had virtually no rust except, the belly pan right below the non-existent battery tray. Considering this GT had only
98,000 mile on the clock, and that it was stored for many years, it was an amazing amount of damage.
The engine, transmission and interior were all in poor condition. By then I should have realized that I was in way over my
head and should have contemplated finding a better GT. But, I was in my early 20’s and just did not think that way. Since
then I have spoken with number of Opel owners and they all told me that they would have parted-out and scrapped the GT. I
however went into the restoration with the intent of replacing and restoring everything. Subsequently this GT became the
perfect candidate for the ‘guilt-free’ body modifications.
The first order of business was to completely strip down the body. As this was the days before digital cameras, I took very
few photographs during the restoration process. A deficiency that I am remedying with my current ‘73 Manta project.
Note: For the first time restorer I recommend to ‘Bag-and-Tag’ every nut and bolt during disassembly. That and take hundreds of digital photographs. You never know when the photos will come in handy, in the future!
A.
G.
D.
H.
E.
B.
C.
Above: Back from Welding
F.
PHOTO ESSAY
Above are some of the photos taken during the panel replacement process. Pictures A. D. & F. illustrate removing damaged
sheet metal. Pictures B. & E. illustrates the typical donor panel. Picture C. & G. shows the panels riveted into place prior to
welding. Picture H. depicts the side marker delete panel I made. The last picture, (bottom right) was taken right after the
donor panels were welded in at my friend’s body shop.
With the teardown well underway, I special ordered the Lenk Targa kit through Opel GT Source (OGTS). Once the car was
stripped I obtained donor sheet metal from two different wrecked GTs and began cutting out my damaged panels. I also went
and purchased a special air-powered step-flange hammer so I could ‘flush-fit’ the panels. Once fitted the panels were riveted
in place for later welding. The next task was to fit the Targa frame reinforcements to both the interior and underbody of the
GT. My dad used his Lincoln Arc welder to fuse the heavy steel to the unitized body structure of the GT. He also welded the
upper window frames to the roof. pillars. Once the reinforcements and doors were welded, the door window frames were cut
open at the base. At this point, I towed my GT down to my friend’s body shop and they welded the fenders, quarter panels
and tail lamp panel into the body and filled the rivet holes. A few days later the GT was towed back to my home.
The next task was to install a ground effect kit and targa roof from OGTS. The next step was to install the air dam, side
skirts, rear skirts and rear wing. To fit the fiberglass I temporarily mounted them with duct tape to the body, so I could
position the fiberglass. I visually aligned the pieces by standing back 20 - 30 feet and adjusted the pieces as necessary. Once
satisfied I drilled numerous 1/8” guide and mounting holes {every4 - 6 inches} through both the fiberglass and the body.
Afterwards I removed the body kit and stripped the paint everywhere were the fiberglass was to touch. Using Marine Epoxy I
glued the fiberglass onto the body using the previously drilled holes as my guide and riveted them in place to cure. After a few
days cure-time I removed the rivets and filled the holes with more epoxy.
Next I installed the targa roof. (See pg. 16-20) Note: Some have asked me if my Targa flexes much. Actually with all of the
reinforcements to the chassis the body is quite stiff and flexes very little. The body flexes less than some GTs that I have
raised up on my 4 post shop lift. I am well pleased with the results.
Note: Some may question
why I removed the rivets, or
used epoxy. Two reasons.
1. Marine epoxy creates an
extremely strong bond & isn’t
hydroscopic, which means
future rust is ruled out.
2. Removing the rivets and
sealing the holes removes
both the moisture path for
rust, and removes the chance
for an electrolytic reaction
between the rivet and the
sheet metal. I once purchased
a red 74 Manta in which moisture via the rivets had caused
paint discoloration.
The above pictures show the fiberglass panels fitted and bonded in place. Looking very closely at the top middle picture you
may see the small holes drilled for the rear wing depicted in the lower left picture.
Body work is not one of my strong suits. Smoothing all of the weld seams, feather edging in the fiberglass and Targa roof
was a challenge. My goal was to make the transition from the fiberglass to the body flow seamlessly into the GTs lines. One
added personal touch was to make eight steel caps to seal the cuts made at the door openings. These caps were difficult to
make and weld in place without burning holes. All this was done in keeping with the seamless factory appearance goal.
During this time I was working in my friends driveway and progress
was slow. For those of you who are currently in this phase of
restoration you know exactly how ‘automotive depression’ can creep
in. The body is almost done, but is still in primer and looks quite ugly.
Herein lies the builders greatest challenge. Having successfully body
worked two previous Opels I found that seamlessly melding the
complex curves of the GT body with the fiberglass was a huge
challenge. Perhaps the problem was that I was working in my friends
driveway, or perhaps I was nearing project burn-out. In either case I
decided to called upon my friend’s body shop services once again.
I learned that having talented friends in the automotive industry does pay off. Sending my
GT off to the body shop to double check my work before paint was the best decision I made
to bolster my morale. As previously mentioned I was close to project burn-out just before
the ‘paint payoff’. It took 3 long months before the body shop could work my project into
their schedule, but seeing my GT after the red paint was applied, made it all worth while.
The GT in
primer just
before
heading off
to the body
shop. You
may notice
I reopened
the rear
windows.
While the GT was at the body shop, I set aside garage space at home and began
working on the 2.4L and 5 speed. I also took this time to have a number of items
chromed, such as the bumpers, door handles, cowl screen wiper arms and motor
cover, water and alternator pulleys, along with various other engine components.
On my days off I visited various upholstery shops to pick the interior color. After
going through many upholstery sample books I decided on Hampton, ‘Bone’ and
purchased 10 yards of material. This may sound like a lot of yardage, but I ended up
needing every last inch. Upholstering the Fiero seats used up 3 yards alone! I had
the dash recovered, custom door and quarter panels made, along with new visors.
While my GT was being painted I went and ordered all of the rubbers and
suspension pieces that I might need. Upon its return the real work began. I
rebuilt both the front and rear suspensions with new ball joints, tie rods,
and polyurethane bushings. I also installed front and rear lowering springs.
The rear differential received all new bearings and seals.
The shocks were replaced with red Konis and OGTS front
and rear sway bars. After assembling the suspension it
was time to install the engine and transmission.
At the time I was laid-off from work and did not have
access to a shop lift, so I improvised. I assembled the
engine to the transmission, with both cross members,
and placed everything on a plywood board. The front of
the GT lifted high on my tallest jack stands and the
entire assembly was slipped under the belly pan.
Living in earthquake country, I quickly lowered the front of the GT back down to a safe height and slowly lifted the engine
up from the bottom using 2x4 blocks of wood and a floor jack. I accomplished this by adding one block of wood, at a time,
under each corner of the cross members until I could bolt them in place. Somehow,... I did this without scratching the paint.
Oil cooler behind air dam duct
Living in California also means dealing with 100-115 degree summer temperatures.
As such, the 2.4L needed more cooling than the stock radiator could provide. I
purchased a German autobahn radiator with a pressurize remote located tank. I
also purchased a new five blade fan supplemented by a 16 inch thermostatically
controlled pusher fan, which handles stop-n-go traffic nicely. Note: On my first
long drive I did noticed the need for additional oil cooling when oil temps went
over the 250 degree mark in heavy traffic. I subsequently installed a remote oil
filter and a thermostatically controlled oil cooler. Fresh air to the cooler is ducted
via the passenger side vent in the front air dam. The engine received a 2.0L fuel
injection system grafted onto a 2.2L intake manifold and throttle body. The spent
exhaust gasses travel down a 2.0 English exhaust manifold and dump into a
custom 2 inch exhaust with a Dynaflow muffler and Anza oval exhaust tips.
Left to Right: Autobahn radiator, remote
oil filter and pressurized coolant tank.
B
L
I
T
Z
-
F
A
C
T
S
Text & Photos:
Dennis G.
Original: 1973 1.9L 4 speed Yellow w/ Black interior * Engine: 2.4L, with 2.2 EFI manifold and 2.0L computer, 2.0L Opel
electronic ignition distributor and Opel ignition wire router, K&N air filter, HD radiator with expansion tank, Stacked oil cooler
with remote thermostat and remote oil filter. * Exhaust: 2.0L English manifold with 2” exhaust, Dynomax muffler and oval
Anza exhaust tips * Transmission: Getrag 5 speed with 9” Opel Clutch * Brakes: Front Big Brakes with Cross Drilled rotors
and EBC Kevlar pads, Straus rear disk brakes with proportioning valve, Stainless steel brake hoses * Suspension Front:
OGTS Intermediate front spring, Polyurethane bushings, 1 in. sway bar with Koni Red shocks * Suspension Rear: stock
rear springs, OGTS 3/4 in. rear sway bar, Koni Red shocks, HD Torque Tube with Manta-B Damper * Wheels: HRE 501
15 x 8 ET12 * Tires: 205-50/15 front & 225-50/15 rear Yokahama AVS * Body: Lenk Targa roof conversion, OGTS RS01/B
air dam, LT05 side skirts; LT12 rear skirts and GT04 Winter Tuning rear wing, Englemann sport mirrors * Electrical: 65 Amp
Opel internal regulated alternator, 1975 Manta efi fuel pump and Derale 16 in. pusher fan with custom shroud, Bosch Driving
Lights * Interior: Fiero seats, custom upholstered dash, door panels, center console and rear deck, 75 Manta 3 point seat
belts, White colored gauges with supplemental Oil Temperature & Volt Meter gauge * Stereo: Sony X’plod XR-C7350X head
unit, Sony CDX-838 10 disk Changer and Boston Acoustic 6x9s * Miscellaneous: Group 47 Battery, Alpine 8049 alarm with
proximity sensor, 1992 Acura Integra dome lamp, Custom oversize spare tire shelf, Isuzu space saver spare tire.
With the suspension and engine bolted-in, I focused in the exterior, interior and electrical work. I installed Hella H4 head
lights and all new lamps and lenses. Installed the freshly chromed bumpers and door handles. Had the dash pad recovered,
installed the rebuilt white face gauges and replaced the clock with a volt/oil temperature gauge. Installed new carpet, had the
door and quarter upholstered. Upholstered and installed a set of Fiero seats and added a set of Manta seat belts. The newly
repaired dash received a Sony head ,a Sony 10 disk CD changer was placed next to the spare tire and Boston Acoustic 6x9s
speakers were added to the back deck. Lastly I installed and wired the fuel injection and ignition system, hooked up the new
radiator system & fans, installed an Opel Omega 65Amp internally regulated alternator and fired her up!
With the GT up and running, a few small finishing touches were still needed. The upholstery shop needed my GT to make the
spare tire flap and kick panels, due to the complexity of the stitch pattern I designed. Luckily the ‘94 OMC Picnic was 3
months away and there was plenty of time, or so I thought. While at the upholsterer’s one of their employees decided to take
my GT out for a ‘hot-lap’ and crash it into curb. My body shop was able to fix the body damage in time for the OMC Picnic,
however receiving restitution from the upholstery shop was much more difficult. They claimed no knowledge! No responsibility! And almost didn’t pay for the damages. One word of advice always have your restored Opel ‘professionally appraised’
and get collector car insurance before driving your bay on the street. This small bit of advice paid off for me in 2000.
Over the years past 14 years I have logged over 11 thousand miles on my GT, taken her to numerous car shows, went on sight
seeing drives and loaned her to Opel for three weeks in 2007 for the launch of the New GT. There have been numerous ups
and downs (see page 3, ‘Letter from the Historian’) however I still enjoy driving and owning my 1973 Targa GT.
As mentioned before Opel ownership, just like ownership of any automobile, has its share of Ups and Downs.
With a regular car the Ups might be: The day you drive it off the showroom floor, or perhaps the day you mailed your last
monthly payment? The low points would be equally obvious, such as: The rainy night flat tire, or the transmission went out
and you need a towed home.
With our Opels the experiences are similar and yet unique. You may have happy memories from building your Opel or your
first drive with your spouse or girl friend on that sunny spring day. Perhaps its going to a car show and seeing old friends? I
too share all those same experiences. One of those high points was when my GT was used to carry Mr. Erhard Schell
(designer of the original GT) and Mr. Friedhelm Engler (designer current GT and Saturn Sky ) at the launch of the Opel GT in
Palm Springs, CA. And of course one of the lowest points was when my GT was rear ended.
The only words of wisdom I have is enjoy and share those good experiences with your family and friends. The low points,
well, send me or your fellow Opel owners an email, talk to us, we’ll understand and we’ll do our best to listen and hopefully
be able to make things better. And,… “Never give up on Your Dream”!
Palm Springs Feb. 2007 in front of
the xxxxx hotel. Two classic and
two new GTs.
Worst-Case
Scenario
Think it can’t happen to you?
Think again. Make sure your Opel
is properly insured with these tips.
Rear Ended, My 73 GT in 2000
You really have to feel pity for “the
other guy”. He’s the one you always hear
about, and bad luck seems to be his
constant companion. Maybe his car was
stolen, wrecked in a crash, or burnt to a
cinder in a fire.
It happened to me in 1992 and Friday
August 11th. in 2000, the times that I
became, ‘The Other Guy’. The first time
it was my 72 Kadett the second time it
was my 73 GT. In both cases it was an
inattentive driver. I was just happy that
the guy had insurance, and that I wasn’t
taking an ambulance ride. And, if it
could happen to me, it could happen to
you.
In 1992 I had a difficult time with a “no
name” insurance which took months to
resolve. In the second case it was clear
sailing to get my payout. In both cases I
was zero percent at fault. The estimates
for repair was $1800 the first time and
$3000 the second. However with the
Kadett the insurance company offered
$500 I keep the car and $800 if they
kept it. I chuckled. Insurance companies
are not used to dealing with classics—
they generally deal with wrecked Toyota
Camrys. Because of this, their labor
rates are based on “production shops”
and not shops that repair classic cars.
They wanted to pay $48 an hour for
repair, but our local shop charges $75
an hour. Again, since I wasn’t at fault,
and in good position to negotiate my
losses. It took several hours to compile
all of my receipts for previous paint
work, for restoration parts and my
maintenance list. It also required a trip
down to the insurance adjuster for an
inspection. In the end I was able to
prove this was not some neglected Opel
Kadett, and received the full settlement
amount. I’m glad I kept all my receipts.
Keep all the Receipts!
Don’t be afraid to argue your case with
the insurance company. Be firm, be
polite and don’t loose your temper, it
normally makes the likelihood you
getting the settlement you want remote.
If you feel you’re in the right, there’s
always small claims court as the very
last resort.
Whose at Fault?
There are two factors that determine
how well things will work out for you
after an accident: Fault and Insurance.
If the accident is your fault, then the
quality of your company comes into
play. If it’s the fault of another party,
then their insurance matters most.
Unfortunately, even if you are at no
fault in the accident, you can still get
hurt in the pocket if the other person is
uninsured or under-insured. In this
case, your insurance company can help
if you have uninsured motorist
coverage. When purchasing insurance
Rear Ended, My 72 Kadett in 1990
for your Opel assume that you will need
it. Buy it like you know that an accident
will be your fault, and the other
motorist is uninsured. Going cheap on
auto insurance is bad investment.
‘Stated’ vs. “Agreed” Valve
The most important part of your
insurance is whether your car is covered
under a ‘stated’ or ‘agreed’ value policy,
and it’s critical that you know what your
current policy is. Most insured are in a
cleverly worded stated-value plan and
mistakenly believe they have an
agreed-value policy.
McKeel Hagerty, CEO Hagerty
Insurance says, “Both stated-value and
agreed-value policies can cover a
collector car for its full value, but
because stated-value policies are only
required to pay up to that amount at the
time of a total loss, there is wiggle room
for the insurance company. Only
agreed-value policies guaranty that a
collector will be fully paid in the event of
a loss. This is why we only sell
agreed -value policies.” The afore
mentioned wiggle room is where you
can really get screwed. According to
Chuck Wasoski of Grundy Worldwide,
“In a stated-value policy, the insurance
company will pay the lesser of the stated
value, or the actual cash value. With the
agreed-value policy, the insurance
company would either pay the totals
Protecting Against Theft
It has been said that the best defense is a strong
offense, and this holds true when protecting
your automotive investment. Having your daily
driver swiped is bad enough. Having your Opel
stolen is worse. I will admit, it is rather remote
that your Opel would be stolen, however I have
spoken with those of you, to whom, this has
happened.
In most cases, the insurance company will want
to wait a certain amount of time (sometimes
several months) to see if your car is recovered.
On top of that, if you only have documentation
like receipts and pictures to argue what your
Opel is worth it could still be an uphill battle.
Having a current appraisal or an agreed-value
policy will really help in this regard, but it is no
guaranty. Take the time to make your Opel a
less tempting target. While no single thing will
make you 100% safe, there are a few tricks that
may convince crooks to move on to an easier
target.
STOLEN
A beautiful sunny day, winter 2000, driving up the California coast.
Little did you know that this was one of the last pictures you would
ever take of your Opel before it was stolen.
“When buying insurance for your Opel, assume you’ll use it.”
agreed to amount, or the cost to repair
the auto (not exceeding the agreed to
amount).” As you can see from the
stated -value plan, the insurance
company can always exercise the ‘Or’
option, and opt to pay you based on the
actual cash value of the car at the time
of collision. This obviously isn’t the
same as the value you stated - it’s what
they think the car is worth. After all,
they never agreed with you about the
value of your Opel in the first place, they
merely wrote you a policy for what you
stated it was worth. Get the picture?
Many of you do not have either of these
policies, and just add their Opel to the
policy covering the daily drivers. In this
situation, the insurance company is
most likely going to pay based on Blue
Book value. Good luck convincing them
to cover your fresh painted 2.4L GT with
that Getrag you installed last summer.
To them, it’s just another old-car with
little value.
So what’s the solution? Go with an
agreed-value policy, or roll the dice.
now offer agreed-value policies and try
to convince collectors that a multiple
policy discount is the way to go, they are
really not in this business, and their
claims handling would prove it. The big
companies are great at regular cars, but
classic cars need special attention.”
At Grundy, Wasoski echoed this idea.
“The advantages with a specialty
company will basically come down to
cost. Collector rates could be as much as
75 percent less than standard car
insurance companies. If a claim occurs,
a collector car insurance company has
more experience with how to handle the
claim properly.”
Almost all of the specialty insurance
companies have some restrictions. In
general, we found that as restrictions
decrease, costs increase - and quickly.
It’s also important to note that racing
modifications are a touchy area. Some
companies will not insure if you have a
roll cage. Some will make you sign a
statement that you won’t race the car.
Again it’s critical that you ask questions
specific to the way you use your Opel.
Only go with companies that
have an A or A+ rating.
Hagerty: “We are definitely more
cautious about certain types of racing
modifications. We have a fairly strict
racing restriction in the policy, so we are
Limits On Use
not too concerned about racing itself
One way specialty insurance companies when people are open about it, because
can charge you lower rates is by putting we simply do not cover any racing
rules into place that limit the chances losses.”
for a claim. Many companies place
Grundy allows for liberal pleasure
restrictions on how many miles you can
cruising, and will cover your drive to the
drive your car each year; while other
track - but don’t expect them to cover
companies like Hagerty and Grundy,
you in the staging lanes at the drag
don’t have actual mileage limitations ,
strip. Grundy did not exclude cars that
they have limits on use. And both want
have nitrous but they don’t like roll
Specialty Insurance
to know that this isn’t your primary
bars. Here a signed statement that you
Classic cars are all the rage, and many means of transportation, and that it’s
will not race the car was mandatory.
traditional insurance companies are mostly used as a hobby vehicle. Both
getting into the collector coverage game. also want your ride stored in an Heacock Classic insurance does it a
This may not be a bad thing, except that enclosed garage, and neither will cover bit different. With this company, you
buy your policy based on use.
their appraisal and claims departments you at the race track.
are usually geared toward normal cars,
“Only agreed-value policies guarantee that a
not one -of-a-kind customs, like that
Steinmetz fendered Manta or Targa GT.
collector will be fully paid in the event of a loss.”
According to Hagerty, “While several of
McKeel Hagerty, Hagerty Insurance
the general auto insurance companies
For example policies where you drive
less than 1,000, 3,000 or 5,000 miles
per year. According to their underwriting manager, Gary Gandy,
“We are less concerned with racing style
modifications than we are with the way
the car is used. We won’t cover a
stripped race car with license plates, be
we have no problem with modifying a
street car.”
Want to take your wife for a spur of the
moment cruise up the coast? Not a
problem. Just don’t drive it to Home
Depot for a load of lumber. Remember,
ask plenty of questions when shopping
for insurance. For example, find out if
your car is covered if parked overnight
at a hotel. Also ask if they give discounts
for security systems like alarms and
GPS tracking devises.
Appraisals
The amount for which you need to
insure your Opel for is determined by its
value. Many specialty companies don’t
require you to get an official appraisal;
instead, they rely on what the owner
feels their car is worth.
Hagerty; “We work very closely with
owners to make sure they feel
completely covered before we issue a
policy. When someone has no idea what
their car is worth, we often suggest a
value range. Because classic and custom
cars are unique by nature, we
sometimes have the owners complete a
worksheet to help us understand what
the car actually is, and how much went
into it. Only on rare occasions do we
require an appraisal from a certified
appraiser.”
Even if an appraisal is not required,
having your Opel appraised can serve as
proof of its value in case of loss. It’s also
a good idea to keep detailed records
with pictures and receipts. And make
sure you keep that information in a safe
place where your wife can’t find it.
The Bottom Line
Do your research. Besides the big
companies, there are a few smaller
companies providing specialty car
insurance.
“Collector rates could be as much as 75 percent
less than standard car insurance companies”
- Chuck Wasoski, Grundy Worldwide
THE GPS SNITCH
Protecting your Opel can be as
expensive as an alarm system, or as
low tech as a cleverly hidden kill
switch. Sadly, neither will protect
you from a professional with a flat
bed tow truck, but every little bit
helps.
Another option is to install a GPS
tracking device. A brand new one I
like a lot is called the GPS Snitch,
sold through MuscleRodz. It can be
hidden anywhere, and is programmable to call your cell phone if your
car is tampered with. Once notified,
you can go online to see exactly
where your car is, and, if necessary,
notify the police. - Or take matters
into your own hands, if you prefer. -
SOURCES:
GPS Snitch
1215 13th Street S.E., #110
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
T2G 3J4
www.gps-snitch.com/
MUSCLERODZ
405-735-8405
www.musclerodz.com
One last word of advice from
Hagerty;
“People often get too fixated on covering
the car, and forget to get enough
liability and uninsured motorist
coverage. This coverage should be as
high as your daily driver.” I also suggest
you study the benefits each policy
offers. For example, Grundy and
Hagerty both offer roadside assistance
for an extra fee, whereas Heacock
Classic includes this at no additional
charge. Basically do your homework, a
cheaper policy isn’t necessarily a better
deal if it offers less protection or fewer
benefits.
SOURCES:
GRUNDY WORLDWIDE
800-338-4005
www.grundy.com
Hagerty
800-922-4050
www.hagerty.com
HEACOCK CLASSIC
COLLECTOR CAR INSURANCE
800-678-5173
www.heacockclassic.com
Dude, Where’s MY Car!
Need to find your car if it becomes stolen? Is your
teenager taking your car for a spin, while you’re at
work or on vacation? - Remember ‘Ferris Bueller’s
Day Off’ - or - Is your spouse being unfaithful?
Track your car from the internet at any time. You can
program your GPS Snitch to call your cell phone or
email you at the first sign of trouble.
Opel Panel Removal and Replacement
Scared of body work or welding? Time to put on those gloves and welding helmet!
Every car owner, at some point in time, will need to have some type of body work performed. Regardless if you will be doing
the work yourself, or have a shop do the work, knowing what’s involved will give you peace of mind.
One of the biggest auto body tasks is the removal and replacement of damaged body panels, straightening of the surrounding
body work and welding in a donor panel. Having a good welder, such as a Miller Power Mig 180c, with shielded gas will most
definitely be a great plus to the newbie welder. However, all of the panel work shown of the next few pages was done with a
no-name brand wire feed welder using 0.35 flux core wire. Not the most high tech welder, however it was effective.
Although I have been welding for more than 10 years now, I am by no means an expert. Much of the original welding, on my
Targa, was performed by my father who actually stick-welded all of the frame reinforcements. His skill with that high
powered Lincoln arc welder was impressive to watch. Note: The stick-welding method will generally cause more sheet metal
burn-through and damage than you can imagine, much less be able repair.
Since then I have taught myself on an inexpensive wire feed welder. Only recently have I begun to use a professional wire
feed welder which makes welding thin automotive sheet metal much, much easier. So I say, no more excuses for not learning
how to weld. If I was able to learn,... So can you!
The first step in panel replacement
is to locate a suitable donor panel,
before you remove any body panels
from your Opel.
In my case, I was able to locate an
original NOS Opel tail lamp panel
after 2 years of searching. You can
also obtain new fiberglass tail lamp
panels, good used donor panels, or
in some cases locate a reproduction or original panel.
Note: If the panel is to be reused,
a spot weld drill is best used to
remove that panel one spot weld at
a time. Below is a typical spot weld
drill, and is readily available.
The process begins with the removal of all of the lights, trim, bumpers and glass from the surrounding work area. Afterwards
a spot weld drill is used to remove the damaged sheet metal one spot weld at a time. Locate the spot welds by finding the tell
tale depressions in the sheet metal. Center punch those spot weld depressions and begin to drill, periodically checking your
drill depth. Patience will reward you with a cut that is just deep enough to go through just one layer of metal. Once drilled
locate and find the spot weld to just right or left of your first drill. Repeat until you have found and drilled every spot weld.
Once all of the spot welds have been drilled out, slightly bend the outer sheet metal lip to remove the tail panel. Once the
panel is removed you will often find that stress-bends in the surrounding sheet metal will have relaxed significantly. In my
case, the warp in the right rear quarter panel, just below the pop-out window, disappeared requiring no body work. The warp
in the upper deck panel, near the filler neck, was reduced by 50%.
{See Areas Circled above in yellow.}
With the panel removed, if any of the surrounding sheet metal was bent this
is the time to straighten it. The tools of the trade (shown to the right) will
help you to perform most basic body repairs.
Note: If you wish to learn more on how-to get the best results using these
body tools, there are DVD’s on the subject as well as an excellent book
entitled, ‘The Key to Metal Bumping’ available from Eastwood.
You will also want to check the bumper supports for any deformation.
Straighten and align these as necessary. Any tears in the sheet metal should
also be welded at this time. {My GT had a 1 inch tear in the bend just right
of the filler neck.}
Left: Once you have repaired any warps,
bends or tears in the surrounding sheet metal
your work should look much like this.
Note: Any exposed metal should be primed.
Any metal that will be spot welded should
receive a coating of weld-able primer, such
as; Eastwood’s Bloxide or Copperweld weld
thru primer. These products are designed to
eliminate the corrosion that usually forms
between two pieces of metal.
Next install and align the donor panel into
place using a multitude of fasteners. I used a
combination of clamps and rivets. You may
also use ‘blind rivets’ or even screws. The
main point is to make sure the panels do not
move or warp during the welding process.
Above: Blind rivets also
known as ‘Clecos’ and ‘Side
Clecos’. Commonly seen at
higher end fabrication shops
as well as in Nascar. They are
readily available though
through Eastwood.
At this point your donor panel should be fitted and ready for welding. But before you
fire up the welder I suggest you step back about 20 to 30 feet and verify, with your eye,
that every thing is aligned perfectly... just to be 100% sure.
Trust your eyes. Your eye will notice any misalignment, and if you can see a problem rest assured so will everyone else.
You will also want to protect and cover all surrounding body work with either welding
blankets or other suitable non-flammable material. Also protect the surrounding glass
from any sparks. In my case I cover the entire car. I also recommend having a source
of water and a fire extinguisher near by. Always better to be safe than sorry.
The factory used spot welds to fuse the panels together, however most do-it-yourselfers as well as many body shops do not
have a spot welder. The next best method to use is called ‘plug-welding’.
In this type of welding the outer layer of sheet metal is drilled with a 5/16 inch size hole and the weld is started on the inner
panel and is fused to the outer panel. This not only creates an extremely strong bond (actually stronger than spot welding)
but it also closely duplicates the appearance of an actual spot weld.
Tech: Take your time to weld slowly. Do not spend too much time in any one area. Vary your spot welds from one area to
another, keeping heat build up to a minimum. The extra time spent here will not only reward you with a warp free panel, but
will also minimize heat damage to the surrounding paint.
When you have finish welding your
tail lamp panel in place, your weld
should be nice and clean requiring
minimal clean up with a hand held
grinder.
Left: Note randomness of the plug
welds in the tail lamp panel. This
randomness is due to the fact that
the factory spot welds were done by
hand verses machine. The factory
welds will dictated where you
needed to weld.
Editor’s Note: The Opel GT body
was actually hand built by the coach
builder Chausson in Genevilliers,
France. In the photo below you can
actually see three workers hand
lifting the front and rear skins onto
the body, prior to welding.
If your GT has no fiberglass ground effects then
after a little bit of sanding and coat of primer your
GT will be ready to send to paint.
If however your GT has any fiberglass that was
damaged in the accident it will need to be
addressed. If the fiberglass is severely damaged a
new piece will need to be ordered. If the damaged
was minor such as some separation or cracking
then this is easily repaired. Fortunately my GTs
fiberglass was only damaged during the panel
removal process and required a minor amount of
fiberglass epoxy to repair the damage.
Tech: I recommend a product called Marine Tex
to handle any epoxy work. For regular cracks I
recommend standard fiberglass cloth and a good
quality resin from a reputable manufacture such
as Evercoat.
You may also have received some damage to the trim strip on the back panel. When I originally built my GT this piece was
already missing and I had the fastener holes filled. During my long search for the tail panel I was able to locate a trim strip
that was been broken in half. Unfortunately, I was able to welded this delicate piece back together. (sorry no pictures.)
The donor trim strip had two problems: 1. rust pitting at the tips & 2. the two broken halves had been brazed together.
To weld this very thin piece of trim back together you will need to cut a thin strip of sheet metal. This piece will be trimmed to
fit snuggly inside of the fastener channel on the trim strip. This piece will be used to securely hold both halves of the trim
strip together. It will also serve as a backer material during welding. Tack weld the two halves together and allow them to
cool. Check you alignment and if good add some more weld to your work. Due to the extremely small tacks I had to make I
found it necessary to wire brush my weld between each tack. After about 2 hours of delicate work (and filing down the welds
periodically) I was able to completely weld up the damage effectively salvaging a rare piece of Opel trim.
Proceeding Page: Easily noticeable are the clamps and the bolts through the bumper mounting holes. What is not easily
seen are the rivets on the perimeter of the tail lamp panel.
How to Build a Targa
Choosing Your Chassis & Under-Chassis Frame Reinforcements
Over the years I have been asked repeatedly, “So,… how hard was it to install your Targa kit?” My rather lengthy and detailed
answer often causes their eyes to glaze over with that deer-in-the-headlights look and either shake their head or tell me that
that’s way more work than they want to get into. I myself have gone back and forth over the years about the merits of a Targa
roof on a poor weather day or on an overnight trip. -Do I take the roof with me or do I leave it at home?- However, every
time I take a drive on a picturesque day or on a sightseeing road trip through Yosemite, all that questioning of my sanity
quickly disappears and would do it all over again.
Over the next few pages I will expose the work involved to transform your GT into a Targa. The kit, as of this writing, is still
available from Lenk Tuning in Germany if you decide to tackle this conversion. You will want to start with a rock solid Opel
GT chassis. Your GT should have minimal rust, a straight frame and have never have been involved in a severe accident. You
basically want a body that has a solid platform to build upon.
Although my GT had been in some minor fender benders, the chassis exhibited no body flex at the doors when lifted I lifted it
up on a shop lift and was still able to open and close the doors easily. If your GT does not pass this test and you can not open
the doors most likely you have significant body flex. I would then recommend that you take your GT to a qualified body shop
and have them inspect for frame damage, hidden rust inside the unibody or the tell tale signs of a severe accident.
Note: It was a common practice, back in the 70’s, to take a car that was badly rear ended, cut the entire back of the car off at
the rear of the door opening, and weld on an entire rear clip from a donor car. I have seen this procedure performed on more
than one car and a few GTs in my day.
Shop Safety: You will be grinding and welding overhead.
You must wear eye or face protection. I also recommend
ear protection.
A.
C.
B.
Under Body, Rear: 1/2 x 1 1/2 inch rectangular tubing grafted in the transmission
tunnel frame rail (A.) back to the trailing arm mounts (B.) and is further welded to
the floor pan at each floor reinforcement ridge (C.).
Once your GT passes inspection it is
time to order your kit from Germany
and strip the flammable items from
the interior. If you are doing a full
restoration, may I also suggest that
you remove the engine and
transmission at this time as well.
Once your kit arrives from Germany
you will be ready to begin.
The first step will be to install the
under car frame pieces. As seen in
the picture to the left, notch the
transmission tunnel rails to accept
the rectangular tubing. Next trim the
rear of the tubing to fit snuggly
against the trailing arm floor
mounting brackets. You basically
want a nice tight fit so that the
rectangular tubing fits flush and
tightly to the floor pan. This will
allow you to weld the tubing onto the
floor pan ribs increasing rigidity.
The better your work, the stronger
your welds will be and stiffer your
chassis.
This step effectively ties the front frame to the rear frame. Your next step is to tie the inner and outer frames together. This is
accomplished by welding a piece of 1 x 1 inch square tube between the transmission tunnel and the jack point. The tubing
should also fit flush against the floor pan.
Once all welding work is completed both the tubing and the welds need to be protected with an etching primer and painted
with an epoxy paint that is resistant to stone chips and inhibit rust formation.
Tech: For a good quality epoxy primer & chassis paint I recommend Eastwood product paints. http://www.eastwood.com/
Passenger Side
Drivers Side
A.
B.
B.
A.
Under Body, Front: Weld the 1 x 1 inch square tubing to the front transmission tunnel frame (A.) to the perimeter frame
at the jacking pads (B.). This effectively connects both inner and outer frame members together. The square tubing must fit
tightly between a. & b. as well as flush to the floor pan.
Rocker Panel & Rear Interior Reinforcements
Moving on to the interior we are going to add seven more frame reinforcements. By far the easiest to install are the inner
rockers. These panels are about 48 inches long and but against the rear floor step. The addition of these two pieces will beef
up the perimeter frame at the door opening. The rockers can either be stitch welded or plug welded into place.
B.
A.
Two areas to be mindful of are: The seat belt mounting hole (A.) and the notch for the
seat support frame (B.). At the seat belt mounting hole a 1 inch diameter hole should be
drilled prior to stitch welding the opening to the frame. At location (B.) the notch in the rocker
may need to be trimmed and fitted prior to welding.
During WWII women
welders kept our Military
on the move.
Continuing on to the rear of the GT we will be welding in three pieces of 1 x 1” steel tubing. The longest piece measuring 42
inches long is tucked into the existing rear shelf steel support, with the remaining two 7 inch long pieces mounted diagonal
underneath the long piece for additional support.
A series of 1/2” diameter holes will be drilling into the top and front of the shelf support. Slip the long tubing into the shelf
support and check the fit. Trim down the length as needed. Reinsert the tubing and clamp tightly to draw the tubing towards
the previously holes drilled. Once the tubing is flush, plug weld each hole (C.).
Tech Hint:
“Plug Welding” will be the
best method to weld the
square tubing to the inside
of the upper shelf support
rail.
C.
C.
Next trim the two 7 inch long
1 x 1 inch square tubes to fit
between the upper tubing you
just welded in and the top of
the wheel hump on both the
drivers and passenger sides.
D.
Once you have achieved a
nice tight fit seam weld both
the top and bottom of both
diagonal support members
(D.).
Transmission Tunnel Reinforcements
The final chassis reinforcement is the most challenging and also the most critical piece to install correctly. So, no short cuts
please! Under the wooden rear shelf two “U” channels will be trimmed to extend the transmission tunnel and fit between the
frame ‘horseshoe’. The final step will be to tie the horseshoe to the inner rear rocker panel. Once this step is completed all
of the structural frame members of the GT both inside and
out will be tied together. This will ensure that you will have a
strong chassis that exhibits minimal flex.
I can attest that after 17 years of driving my GT still exhibits
minimal cowl shake over train tracks or rough pavement,
and that the chassis did not crumple after being involved in a
rear end collision. I can still jump up and down inside the
car and have the door gap flex by less than 1/16th. of an inch.
A.
B.
C.
D.
Horse Shoe
Tech Hint:
Take your time to carefully trim both “U” channels to
tightly fit the floor pan contours and floor ribbing.
Extra time spent here will greatly reduce the time spent
welding and will ensure that the backbone of the GT (the
transmission tunnel) is fully reinforced.
Begin by fitting the 42 inch long, 4 inch tall “U” channel (A.) to fit between the horseshoe. Next notch the “U” channel to
snuggly rest against the floor pan contours and ribbing. Do not yet weld in place. Next trim the 5 1/2 inch long, 4 inch tall “U”
channel (B.) to fit tightly between (C.) & (D.). Once fitted tack weld into place followed by full seam welding.
The last step is the connect the horseshoe to the perimeter frame at the inner quarter panel. The illustration below should
help to clarify the placement. Once fitted, these two small plates effectively tie the perimeter frame to wheel house and
horseshoe frames.
These two oddly shaped pieces, with a ninety degree bend each,
(A.) are fitted between the horseshoe and inner quarter panel.
Both plates measure 2 1/4 inches tall and 7 inches long, with the
long part starting at around 4 inches wide and follow the contour
of the horseshoe down to where the piece is only about 1 3/4
inches wide.
A.
Ho
rse
e
Sho
As before trim these two pieces as necessary to ensure a nice tight
fit. Once fitted seam weld them in place.
STOP!
HALT!
LE BOUCHON!
FERMATA!
EINDE!
With all of the frame reinforcements finally welded in place you might think its time to cut the roof open.
Not yet,… but we are very, very close. Follow along as we prepare the doors for modification.
Targa Door Frames & Roof Inserts
As the Policeman on the proceeding bottom left states his words of caution from English to Dutch, we have a few more steps
before you take that plasma cutter or saber saw to your roof.
Since you will be welding the tops of both doors to the roof this next step is critical. First you must perfectly aligned both
doors to the door frame opening. Any door misalignments will be unalterable after the door frames (in the next step) are
welded into the roof.
Spot Welds
Door “A” & “B” Pillar Detail:
Once you have aligned the doors tack weld the
“A” Pillar of the door to the “A” Pillar of the
Windshield. Then tack weld the “B” Pillar of the
door to the cars “B” Pillar.
Hint: You will also want to do some tack welding
to the interior side of both the A & B pillars.
Once you have tack welded everything go back
and slowly seam weld the exterior side of both
pillars. Grind the finished welds smooth.
A.
A.
Windshield & Door “A” Pillar
Windshield & Door “B” Pillar
Note: In the pictures above, the weather strip edge is rolled over, allowing
the door to be opened and closed with the door glass rolled up.
After the door are welded shut you will need to
cut the doors back open at (A.) indicated in the
pictures to the left. Make the cuts just above the
window sill, giving your self about a 1/8 to 3/16
inch gap.
Next carefully roll over the outer edge of the door
window channel 90 degrees. This will allow you
to open and close the door with the glass rolled
up and give you new weather-stripping edge.
Optional: For that finishing touch, you may
make and weld in small sheet metal plates to
cover the cuts made to both the door tops and to
the roof pillar bottoms.
At long last, we are finally ready to begin cutting the targa roof opening.
Set the targa roof cutting template on the roof and center it to the door window openings. Once you have double and triple
checked the placement take a few steps back and verify your positioning with your eye. Look it over from a number of angles
and if anything seems wrong adjust the template until you are 100% satisfied. Tape down the template and trace the perimeter
with a black felt marker. Remove the template and begin your cuts. Remove the section you cut and set aside.
Next grab the front and rear targa roof plugs and slip then into your roof. Clamp the inserts if necessary and install the targa
roof. Adjust and center all three pieces, allow yourself a 3/16 of an inch gap both front and rear, and felt mark the front and
rear plugs respectively. Doing so will allow you to quickly reset the plugs in place in the next step.
Remove the targa roof. Remove the front plug. Sand the fiberglass plug and the rough up the sheet metal where the plug fits.
Mix up the fiberglass epoxy, per instructions, apply the epoxy to both the plug and the roof, insert the plug, align with your
marks and clamp in place. Repeat this same procedure for the rear plug. Allow the epoxy to cure per manufactures instructions.
Once the epoxy has cured you may body work the targa roof, door pillars and doors to your skill level. If body work is not your
forte, you may opt to seal your work with primer and go to your favorite body shop to complete the final body work stages.
Rear Fiberglass Plug Installed
Depending on the manufacture of your targa kit the latching
mechanism and the weather strip seals will be different. Mine
originally came with a simple stud and nut latching system.
Simple and strong but not convenient. A few years later I
modified the roof to accept a modified BMW 325i convertible
latch. This modification required both a repaint of the roof as
well as a weather strip seal change.
I have also taken note of the various weather strip seals used
by fellow targa owners in Europe. Some have adopted the use
of simple aftermarket seals as I have, but the best I have ever
seen is on a Dutch Opel GT owner. This Dutch owner’s GT uses
an adapted Peugeot weather strip seal that also has a chrome
strip built in.
Note: As of this writing I am still researching what model
Peugeot used this seal.
From a brief conversation with this Dutch owner I did learn
that this weather strip seals comes with one major drawback.
It requires that you install a modern power windows which
uses a window controller system.
This power window control system I refer to was once only
found on high end convertibles, however is now used on many
cars such as the new Mustang. In the future I do believe that I
would like to try my hand at just such an installation.
Tech: Modern Power Windows
In days gone by, if you had a convertible you were expected
to accept an automobile that both leaked in the rain and was
rather noisy. Today’s automotive buyer however will not
tolerate such a shortcoming.
Enter the modern door weather strip that has a hard outer
edge with a soft skin foamed center. This type of rubber
works exceptionally well on cars with a full window frame,
but could not be used on a standard frameless window or a
convertible. Problem!
As I stated earlier modern car owners will no longer accept
noisy convertibles, much less one that leaks! This led to the
manufactures to develop a smart power window.
The Verdict:
Would I do it again?,… Maybe.
Back in 1990 I was 23 years old, had
already restored a number of Opels, but
was naïve in regards to the work involved
and skills needed to build a targa GT. I
learn quickly and was not afraid to ask
for help. The build exposed me to my
limits and challenged me increase my
skills. All in all the experience, of the
build, was well worth the effort.
However, the best part about owning a
targa comes with the driving experience.
On a recent cool fall afternoon with the
windows up, and the top off, I was able to
enjoy a simple drive to the gas station.
But the true experience is a drive on a
scenic by-way with a friend to enjoy…
-The Ride-.
Modern power windows have a control system that actuates
the power window motor to slightly lower the door glass as
soon as you operate the interior or exterior door handle. The
same happens when you close the door. The system slightly
lifts the door glass pressing the door glass tightly into the
weather stripping.
Plug Welds Explained
A plug weld is a type of weld that is made by joining one metal part with
a circular hole to another metal part positioned directly beneath it.
Plug welding is an alternative to spot welding and is used by vehicle
manufacturers where there is insufficient access for a spot welder. For
DIY car restorers it is generally used instead of spot welding on panels
and flanges that would have originally been spot welded.
Plug welding
Start off by drilling 5/16 inch holes in the front sheet of metal with a
spacing of between 1 to 1 1/2 inches (or whatever the original spot weld
spacing was). Then clamp this sheet onto the back sheet.
Tech: Set your welder to the recommended settings and welding a test piece
of scrap before welding a whole onto your Opel and check the weld for full
penetrated through both sheets of metal.
Welding through the Hole
Position the welding tip with the electrode in the center of the hole contacting
the back sheet of metal. It is important to arc against this back sheet rather
than on the edge of the hole, otherwise the weld might not penetrate into the
back sheet. The torch should ideally be pointing directly into the hole rather
than at the angle in the photograph.
Start welding in this position and do not move the welder until the hole is
almost full of weld. Then move the welder outwards in ever increasing circles
until the weld is completed. If you chose the settings carefully you should not
burn through. (A.)
The Completed Welds
If the sheets are of the same thickness then the power setting used for plug
welding would be the same as you would use for 1.5 times the thickness of one
of the sheets.
Weld Penetration
This is the sort of penetration you would expect from a plug weld. The molten
pool is just breaking out of the reverse of the back sheet. (B.) The heat marks
indicate the weld has arced against the back sheet rather than at the side of
the hole. If you do not get these marks consider a little seam welding just to be
sure.
Electrode: A device that conducts electricity. In welding, the electrode also
can act as the filler metal.
ARC Welding: A fusion welding process that uses electricity to generate the
heat needed to melt the base metals.
A.
Front View
B.
Rear View
Plug Welding Clamp
There is a special clamp designed for plug welding
that makes life easy. The clamp holds together the
edges of the sheet metal with a space in the middle
for the MIG to weld the plug weld. The rear face of
the clamp is offset so it can fit over flanges.
Epoxy & Fiberglass Body Kits
Now That I Have My Body Kit,… What Should I Use For a Bonding Material?
Marine Tex
Back in 1990, after I purchased the first fiberglass ground effects
pieces for my GT, I asked what the best product was to permanently
attach the fiberglass body panels to steel. The solution came from my
local Boat and Marine repair store. They suggested I use an epoxy.
They claimed that he they had used marine epoxy to repair the broken mounting flange for an out board motor. I was impressed, but
skeptical. I mean, how strong could this two part paste really be, to
hold withstand the force of a hundred+ horse power marine engine
pushing on the hull of a boat? Well, it’s now 2008 and I can attest
that the epoxy I applied 17 years ago is still up to the task.
Marine-Tex, has become a legendary high-strength repair compound designed for filling, bonding and rebuilding
fiberglass and is designed to withstand the harsh demands of marine environments. Amazingly it handles just like
putty, but hardens like steel and sands like body filler. Not only that, but this marine grade epoxy is waterproof so
that moisture can not get between the fiberglass and steel body of the Opel and start rusting.
Testimonial: I used it,… and I’m still sold.
Back when I first built my GT the upholstery shop guy working on my car decide one day that it would be fun to
take my GT for a quick ‘Hot-Lap’. Unfortunately he ended up wrecking the front end of my Opel GT. The air dam
was a mess,… but the epoxy held and did not crack. Nine years later my GT was rear ended and the epoxy holding
the rear side skirts on did not crack. More amazingly, after nine years on the road, there was no rust at or under
the bonding site.
Technical Info
Colors: White and Gray. White is best used on fiberglass and can be tinted with Evercoat
fiberglass coloring agents. Gray is only recommended for machinery repairs.
Marine Epoxy: Is available in sizes from 2 ounces up to 1 gallon.
Note: 1 quart kit will cover about 283.4 square inches or almost 2 square feet.
- 2 quarts was enough to install my ground effects and my targa roof. Mixing Ratio: 5 parts epoxy resin to 1 part hardener.
Working Time: At 72F you have about 30 minutes, however if the material is thicker or left in a lump it will
cure in as little as 15 to 20 minutes. Cooler temperatures will decrease the cure rate, and hotter temperature will
obviously increase the cure rate. I recommend working on a cool day. Have the car prepped and have fiberglass
panels pre-aligned before you begin mixing the epoxy. Mix only enough material to install one panel at a time.
Remember, surface prep is key to any body work. Remove any rust, dirt, grease and paint from all surfaces and
degrease with acetone or lacquer thinner. I also recommended you rough the surfaces with sand paper.
Cure Time: 24 hours at a constant 72F. The minimum working temperature is 55°F and this temperature must
be maintained for a minimum of 24 hours while the epoxy cures.
Adhesion / Shear Strength: White - 2,300 PSI
Tensile Strength: White - 4,000 PSI
Where to Purchase: Marine epoxy is available at most marine supply dealers, boatyards, at marine retailers
and occasionally at your local Ace Hardware.
General Warnings: As with any chemical, always work in a well-ventilated area.
Avoid contact with skin and eyes and always wear rubber gloves and eye protection.
For more information, go to: http://www.marinetex.com/
Letter From The OMC
OMC Needs New Officers
As our patriotic friend states,
‘OMC Needs You’.
This year we’ve had some great officers, and two
dedicated volunteers who stepped forward to create a
few Blitz issues. I also want to take the time and thank
those of you who have submitted Blitz articles in 2008.
OMC Needs You!
These include members and non-members alike:
Dennis Gardiner, ‘Dude’, Art Bryant, John Boesfplug,
George Rust, Stuart Parker, Roger Wilson, Ray Morley,
Paul Heebink and John Dickerson.
If I missed anyone, I do apologize.
Now, at the close of 2008 we are looking for new
members to step forward, become officers and take the
club in a new direction, especially in the office of the
Editor.
This year we had large number of submissions,
however they we created mainly by two people who are
truly the unsung Hero’s of OMC.
Unfortunately, we can’t continually rely on their
generous submissions only. To truly have a vibrant and
active club we need submissions from you.
Roll up your sleeves and Join
OMC’s Officer ranks today
Your submission can be as simple as a photograph (or
more) of your Opel project car. What you have done,
and what your plans and dreams are for the future. You can submit story of your last weekend outing with your wife or girl
friend. What you or your buddies did at the races, or solutions you can up with to solve a problem. etc.
Be creative, and send in what you have. It does not need to be perfect,… our crack staff can handle anything.
I guarantee you that submitting an article for publication will energize you in ways you had never thought were
possible, and your submission will undoubtedly energize your fellow club members with new ideas. So time to get
off of the couch, get back into the garage and write that article. You’ll be glad you did it!
Working on your Opel?
Snap a picture or two and
show us what you’ve got!
We need New Officers for All positions!
If you have wanted be an OMC Officer ‘09 is the year!
Basically, if the OMC Membership can not or will not step forward,
2009 may be the last year of the OMC Blitz. It’s still the membership’s decision.
As such I ask for volunteers to step forward and contact Paul Heebink regarding the officers positions.
(928) 246-6801
We need you, to make 2009 the best member supported newsletter that we can.
Dennis G., OMC Secretary/Historian
Classified
Ads
The Opel Motorsport Club offers Advertising as a service to its
members and does not endorse or bear responsibility for any claims
made by advertisers. OMC strongly suggests exercising caution in
any transactions for items, including: Checking out Vendor reputation on Internet discussion boards such as at: www.opelgt.com
Sales Brochures
OPEL ORIGINAL sales brochures showing all Opel
models, interiors, features for the year. Great for
Restorations or Gifts! ALL PRICES PER YEAR:
1947-49, $40; 1950-54, $35; 1955-64, $25; 1965-69,
$18; 1970-present, $15. Add $3.85 shipping. Specify
year & model. VlSA/MC. Also have literature, manuals,
all cars, trucks, motorcycles, world-wide.
Visit our website: http://www.autolit.com
Walter Miller, 6710 Brooklawn, Syracuse NY 13211.
315-432-8282. Fx 315-432-8256 or E-mail:
[email protected]
Opel Wanted
I’m looking to buy my first Opel. Does anyone have one for
sale in Alabama? Willing to travel. Carrie Cooper
[email protected]
Opels For Sale, by Private Parties
1970 GT
1.9L 4 speed, original owner, 95% original, have orig. paper
work & books $3,600 CA car 909-389-7810 ask for Sherli
1970 Opel GT
White/Black. Motor runs, needs restoration. Good project.
$1000. OBO. NV 775-577-4647
1970 Opel GT
Ran about 5 years ago. $650. CA 714-315-9871
1970 Opel GT
Red/Red. Runs, needs motor gaskets. Straight body,
interior needs work. $2500. NV 775-746-1866
1971 Opel GT
Silver, 4spd. Stockton, CA, contact TJ at
[email protected]
1971 Opel GT Red/black. $3,500. OBO NV 702-202-0785
1971 GT Red, A/T, left door hit. $900. AZ 480-981-9875
1971 Opel GT
Red, 2nd owner, runs & looks great. $4500.
CO 720-229-6993
1971 GT, British Columbia, Canada Comes w/ extra 4 spd. &
parts $3000. Felix (250) 294-4051 [email protected]
1972 Opel GT Needs work NYC car. $5500.
ask for Dr. Charley Ferrer 718-916-4124
1972 Opel GT
New Weber carb and other parts, needs brake and interior
work. Straight body. $1600. CO 303-525-2820
1972 Opel GT
Orange/black. 4spd. Registered, owner since 1974. $4500.
OBO. Sonora, CA Emily at 209-533-1471
1972 Opel GT
Yellow/White. 4spd. Needs work. $2500. TX 281-850-0299
1972 Opel GT
Parked after brother died, currently not running. Has been
Garaged for 9 years. PA 610-469-9047
1969 & 73 Opel GT
73 southern car not running has 5 spd. EFI clean dash.
Comes with 69 1.1L GT & 69 GT 1.9L rough body. Extras.
Lost interest. $3500. TIM [email protected]
1973 Opel GT
Red, A/T, garaged since 1991 $5,000. OBO
Oregon 541-488-1432
1973 Opel GT Blue, 4spd. $4,000. WA 253-279-4661
1973 Opel Manta Luxus
Runs, needs lots of work, automatic, CA $400 owner is Zak
[email protected] 530-333-0896 leave message
1974 Opel Manta
Runs, needs work, no rust, CA $1000
[email protected]
1975 Opel Manta
3500 miles, All original, Not running. Improperly stored for
10 years, but still in good condition. Contact Jim
[email protected]
1975 Opel Manta
Gray, Complete but poor condition. FI, 4spd.
$450. San Luis Obispo, CA 805-674-794
1975 Opel Manta
Orange, 4 spd. EFI. Runs and Drives, Registered, straight
body, needs TLC. I need the space must sell $2500. Seattle WA Paul 206-523-5306 [email protected]
OPEL GT SOURCE
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Info: 1-209-928-1110
Fax:
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Email: [email protected]
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Catalog: $4.00
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 4004, Sonora, CA 95370 USA
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