alberto alessi talks design
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alberto alessi talks design
ALBERTO ALESSI TALKS DESIGN A PERFECT THEATRE WITH MATTHEW FORT GHOST IN THE NIGHT ALAIN AND THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY low profile Luxurious accommodation for up to eight guests and a top speed of 50 knots ‘Low Profile’ offers the ultimate in exclusive dream holidays and an escape from everyday stress. Feel the exhilaration cruising through the turquoise Mediterranean waters or drop anchor in a tranquil bay and forget the world. Whatever charter you aspire to let your professional crew spoil you with 5 star service from start to finish. Please contact Rebecca on +33 (0)6 20 20 06 11 to arrange your bespoke charter on board Low Profile around the French Riviera, Corsica or Sardinia. bluewater +33 493 34 34 13 I [email protected] I www.bluewateryachting.com It has been a year of personal celebrations – a wedding, a new grandson and a 70th birthday. To top it all, a very successful year for The Waterside Inn thanks to the leadership of Alain and Diego who head their teams by example. Alain and Laura were married in the South of France in August. Laura’s family travelled from Montpelier and my daughters came from Paris. It was a true family wedding with grandchildren almost outnumbering the grownups. Robyn started the festivities with a pre-wedding party at the Bergerie with a very colourful evening around the pool in perfect weather. After waiting so long for the event, Alain deserved a big spoil – so spoil we did. Just before Christmas their son Paul was born so I was, needless to add, a very proud grandfather once more. In January we always try to find the warm weather and preferably in Asia. We returned to Chiva Som, south of Bangkok for 10 days of the healthy life. We were in the hands of professionals as they performed miracles on tired and stressed bodies. I even took a 7-day detox programme only to be somewhat irritated that Robyn lost almost as much weight as I did and by eating whatever she wanted! We left, promising to be back next January; the Chiva Som experience leaves me in top form for three months. I took to the Swiss slopes in February with my elder daughter Christine and family. The three granddaughters surrounded me and shielded me from overzealous snow boarders and other skiers – it was like having my own protection team, they’re known as ‘Michel’s Angels’. After over a year of work, my manuscript Desserts was delivered to the Publisher – on time! I love writing and am very proud that this is my twelfth book and will be published early in October this year. In April some serious celebrations started for my 70th birthday with a big family dinner in Paris at my friend Michel Rostang’s restaurant. He and his wife Marie Claude served a fabulous dinner spoiling us with Poulet de Bresse au Vin Jaune et Morille Mushrooms, lots and lots of them. I had two helpings and Michel Roux Junior had three! Sadly Albert was the only missing member of the family as he had work commitments in Australia. Robyn had organised a rather unconventional birthday present so the following morning we commenced a long journey to Norway for a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Longyearbyen which is just 600 miles south of the Pole. Why, you ask? Well to go dog-sledding of course! This was a complete hands-on experience from feeding them, harnessing them, mushing and yes, even cleaning up after them. We mushed for 50 kilometres a day staying in a glorious old sailing ship that is set in the ice. The quiet and sweeping tundra were awesome and the huskies were so brave. Alain and I appeared together cooking on television for the first time on ‘Saturday Kitchen’ with James Martin. Happily I won the omelette competition which proves that this old pensioner still has what it takes! Back in Switzerland I had a memorable long lunch with my old friend Fredy Girardet, reminiscing about our long relationship and reliving the many meals I have eaten at Crissier. I love visiting the wineries in the Valais to stock my cellar, walking in the mountains and attempting to improve my golf but the views are so distracting. In May I treated myself to a birthday present and chartered a Sunseeker Predator to cruise around Sardinia and Corsica with Robyn and three friends. I cooked on board, swam in crystal clear waters and obeyed the command to ‘chill out’. It was bliss – so relaxing and unusually for me I was not in control. What does a chef know about being captain of the boat or even reading charts, that was all left to the skipper, Chris Fox who coincidentally is the son of my ex-secretary Caroline. I received a telephone call from Amanda Ross of Cactus Productions confirming that she had secured a contract for a television series on the Roux family. The working title is ‘The Roux Dynasty’ and I, as well the rest of the family, are over the moon. It should be shown on the UKTV Good Food channel early 2012. Watch out for it – Albert and I will be back working together after 25 years and no doubt some sparks will fly as they always do! We will need the calming influence of our two respective sons to sort us out! Until next year I will say à bientôt and thank you each and every one for your support at The Waterside Inn. The Waterside Inn, Ferry Road, Bray, Berkshire SL6 2AT Int Tel: +44 (1628) 620691 Int Fax: +44 (1628) 784710 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.waterside-inn.co.uk contents Thirteenth Issue The Per fect Theatr e| 6 Food writer and presenter Matthew Fort enjoys the performance that is food and service at The Waterside Inn The Art of Alessi| 14 Escorte gastronomique… Josh Sims interviews design mogul Alberto Alessi on design, love and kitchen equipment Network House 28 Ballmoor Celtic Court Buckingham MK18 1RQ Telephone +44 (0)1280 829300 Facsimile Fr om Bean to Bar| 18 Alain Roux visits French chocolate manufacturer Valrhona to discover how this ingredient turns from bean to bar Ghost of the Night| 22 Quiet, sleek and smooth, driving the Rolls-Royce Ghost is simply a spiritual experience +44 (0)1280 829350 Email: [email protected] Publisher: Peter Marshall Managing Editor: Shirley Marshall Editor: Katy Morris Assistant Editor: Sue Christelow A Happy Family| 28 Alain Roux recalls his wedding to Laura Delmas and the birth of their son, Paul Editorial Assistant: Danielle May Editorial Contributors: Rosie Birkett, Matthew Fort, Josh Sims Design: Philip Donnelly Room to Relax| 35 Discover the beautiful Hostellerie La Briqueterie in the heart of the Champagne region in France Room for Design| 40 Production Co-ordinator: Glyn Mansfield Photographer: Myburgh du Plessis Sales::Sue Prain, Diane Farnham Sales Support: Diane Warren PA: Olivia White Robyn Roux shares her inspiration behind the interior design choices for the rooms at The Waterside Inn A Night to Remember| 46 American Express holds a dinner in honour of 25 years of Michelin success, Rosie Birkett was there Mark Bir chall of L’Enclume wins Roux Scholarship 2011| 51 Rosie Birkett speaks to the 2011 Roux Scholar Mark Birchall about the competition and his upcoming stage in El Celler de Can Roca, Spain Swan Upping| 54 © Network Contract Publishing Ltd and Roux Waterside Inn 2011. While every effort is made to ensure accuracy, no responsibility can be accepted for inaccuracies, howsoever caused. No liability can be accepted for illustrations, photographs, artwork or advertising materials while in transmission or with the publisher or their agents. All information is correct at time of going to print. Royal birds with a royal heritage, this regular survey is an important event on The River Thames Bray in Bloom| 56 Britain in Bloom committee member Maggie Hughes discusses the competition CHAMPAGNE GOSSET GRANDE RÉSERVE News| 59 All the latest news from The Waterside Inn The oldest Wine House in Champagne : Aÿ 1584 Mc Kinley Vintners - London SE1 7BL [email protected] - www.mckinleyvintners.co.uk www.champagne-gosset.com THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 5 The perfect THEATRE Matthew Fort is captivated by The Waterside Inn – ‘a corner of French style and sophistication in the most British of settings.’ 6 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE ‘S weet Thames, flow softly’, wrote the poet, Edmund Spenser. It does, in front of The Waterside Inn, as it has done for almost 40 years. The surface of the water crinkles like aluminium foil in the spring sun. A grebe disappears beneath the water with an elegant flip. A cruiser presses purposefully up stream on the far side of the river. Standing on the jetty in front of the restaurant, Diego Masciaga, the maître d of maître d’s, casts a benevolent eye over a clutch of tiny, fluffy ducklings scooting around The Waterside Inn’s landing stage. He picks an errant leaf from one of the box bushes, which stand like green shaving brushes in tubs at intervals along the jetty. Diego turns to cast an equally benevolent and watchful eye over the guests gathered at various points of the restaurant’s terraced river frontage. “You get the sense of, that here is a chef who understands the real pleasure of food, who is not afraid He checks a plate of amuse bouches one of the waiters is carrying to a couple sitting on a bench just above the water, pauses to chat smilingly to a group of six, which cover perhaps three generations of the same family. There is an ease, a rhythm about this pre-lunch period, as guests settle down in the sunshine, sip their drinks, study their menus, sink into the comfort and attention as you might sink into a warm bath. There is a sense that there’s nothing to worry about, that everything will be taken care of, that you are the single focus of an alert, thoughtful, immensely capable team. There really is nowhere in Britain quite like The Waterside Inn. Its style, its position, its reputation, its gastronomy, its sense of refined luxury, have been benchmarks since Michel Roux Senior settled here in 1972. When Michel ceded place to his son, Alain, in 2002, there was no diminution of standards, but there has been a subtle progression of style. Evolution rather than revolution is the order of the day. to draw on the traditions that made French haute cuisine the yardstick against which others are judged. However, he is not a slave to these traditions. He bends them, advances them to create his own, personal vision of what each dish should do.” THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 7 The perfect THEATRE “Alain Roux’s cooking is the antithesis of the ego-driven, self-centred variety evident in the food of many contemporary chefs.” Filets de sole pochés au parfum d’estragon, queues d’écrevisses et morilles, sauce au vin jaune ‘Your table’s ready, Mr Fort’. Diego Masciaga beams down, kindly, encouraging, complicit in the pleasure that he knows I’m about to have. He’s seen it countless thousands of times before, helped hone the experience to the seamless sequence of delights it has become. the service, the more invisible it becomes. But if you do want to watch, take note of the precise choreography of white-jacketed, black-trousered, shining-shoed bodies, moving, almost flowing, between the tables. But I’m not going to be distracted by the mini-dramas going on elsewhere because I have one of our own. The first course has arrived. Fond d’artichaut garni d’une mousse moelleuse d’asperges et de betterave, cordon de jeunes pousses de salade et vinaigrette à la ‘pomme d’or’. French seems to bestow an effortless poetry on a dish, that translates into Fabrice Uhryn Diego Masciaga, Matthew Fort and Alain Roux the experience of eating The half drunk glass of Champagne is it. The firm artichoke base carries a light, airy borne ceremoniously in front. I move from mousse, a cloud of asparagus, gentle, allusive, the dancing brightness of the Thames-side defined by the vinaigrette. It’s a delightful terrace into the sudden shade of the body of ramble through spring flavours, fresh and light, the building, and then to the calm, sun-filled classic really, a variation on a theme that’s run order of the dining room, with its dusty pinks, through French haute cuisine since Escoffier roses, modulated reds, its carefully spaced I wipe the plate clean with the chewy, tables covered by brilliant white damask springy bread baked earlier that day. The plate cloths, set with winking glasses in precise vanishes. There is a precisely judged pause, order. It’s theatrical, feminine, sexy and yes, just long enough to meditate on the pleasure unmistakably French, a corner of French of the past dish and to feel the prickle of style and sophistication in the most British of anticipation of the dish to come. settings. And here it comes, Émietté de tourteau At this point the service sinks discretely du Devon et bar mariné sur une gelée de into the background, as it should. The better carottes au gingembre, caviar osciètre ‘Royal 8 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE de Belgique’. Heaven knows what emiette is, but there’s a little pile of glittering white crab meat on a base of carrot jelly, with a slice of marinated sea bass and a frond or two of celery leaf. It’s a dish which advertises its sophistication quietly. The crab sparkles with sweet freshness. The languorous texture of the sea bass shimmers with a delicate acidity. The caviar’s saltiness, fishiness, seasons each mouthful. The carrot provides a bloom of fruit. And what’s this? Heat from ginger riding in on the back of the carrot and then the meaty, bovrilly flavour of the celery has the mysterious quality of focussing the other flavours. Yikes. That’s was good. Can I lick the bowl? While I’m working out whether or not I really might, it disappears. It’s just as well. The life at the other tables is in full swing. Chat, animation, laughter. The sound of voices is like the wash of the sea on a pebble beach. Diego moves around the room, the image of a genial gardener tending his favourite plants. He gives a word of advice here, a joke there, a murmur in the ear of a waiter, pouring a glass of water. Waiters and sommeliers glide around him. Ah, Ravioles et diablotins d’escargots de Bourgogne en persillade servis dans un bouillon de volaille parfumé aux bâtons de citronnelle. It’s a dish of earthy, almost rustic flavours, civilised by consummate, classic cooking skills. I think that the chicken mousse of exquisite delicacy must be the diablotin. The velvety ravioli is plump with more chicken. They rest in a clear, deep brown stock of muscular Ravioles et diablotins d’escargots de Bourgogne en persillade servis dans un bouillon de volaille parfumé aux bâtons de citronnelle. THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 9 The perfect THEATRE Tournedos d’Angus piqué aux olives noires et ses croquettes moelleuses de pommes de terre à la tapenade, sauce au vin blanc parfumée au basilic. “I’m settling into a rhythm now. The pacing of each dish is immaculate. The tempo is picking up at other tables too, as the sense of well-being wraps up each luncher in a duvet of good cheer.” Entremets amandine à la pomme verte et son granité, meatiness, and studded with fat, springy snails, lifted by lemongrass, with the brilliant green of broad beans to provide colour and crunch. I’m settling into a rhythm now. The pacing of each dish is immaculate. The tempo is picking up at other tables too, as the sense of well-being wraps up each luncher in a duvet of good cheer. Dos de saumon cuit en papillote aux aiguilles de pin marin, petites pousses de pakchoï en friture, nage à l’anis étoilé. What’s this? A rectangular bar of wild salmon with pine needles sticking out of it. Weird or what? Not a bit. The subtle astringency of the pine offsets the voluptuous, velvety richness of the fish and the sauce, lightly infused with aniseed. There are a couple of leaves of pak choi, too, almost grassy inside their tempura casing. Alain Roux is a master of detail, each elegantly dovetailed into the beautifully composed dish. Flavour and balance are never sacrificed to mere presentation. And as I sit and ponder on that, another fish dish arrives, Filets de sole pochés au parfum d’estragon, queues d’écrevisses et morilles, sauce au vin jaune. It has the almost miraculous combination of firm sole filled with another feather-light mousse. The sharp, almost medicinal flavour of tarragon clears the way for bosky morels and little detonations of fresh peas. Ah me. This is timeless stuff, pulled off with immaculate polish. And, wonder of wonder, the proportion of sauce to other ingredients is just so, precisely right, enough to register, enough to lubricate each mouthful, and leave just enough to mop up with bread when everything else has vanished. You get the sense of, that here is a chef who understands the real pleasure of food, who is not afraid to draw on the traditions that made French haute cuisine the yardstick against which others are judged. However, he is not a slave to these traditions. He bends them, advances them to create his own, personal vision of what each dish should do. Alain Roux’s cooking is the antithesis of the ego-driven, self-centred variety evident in the food of many contemporary chefs. He may be no culinary sans culotte, but there is a confidence and conviction about the combinations he creates, a balance and a sureness of touch. While he’s not afraid of big, deep flavours, I would say that delicacy and lightness are the hallmarks of his dishes. He knows when to stop. Enough maundering. The Fondant de pigeonneau ‘Royal Maine-Anjou’ et de caille, sur lit de pommes de terre écrasées et chou frisé, jus au citron vert has appeared, a quail breast stuffed inside a pigeon’s breast, contrasting textures of velvet and suede, infinitely elegant and emollient, with the crushed potatoes to add a nubbly, bucolic note. And then there are tiny triangles of lime that burst through the silky richness of the sauce. It’s all about contrast and poise. I wouldn’t say that there was the same reticence about the Tournedos d’Angus piqué aux olives noires et ses croquettes moelleuses de pommes de terre à la tapenade, sauce au vin blanc parfumée au basilic. The aristocratic fillet of beef has been studded with salty black olives. Olives pop up again in the fluffy potato croquettes. And then there’s a white wine sauce and basil. With Aberdeen Angus beef? A travesty? Not a bit of it. The sunshine of the South of France warms the Scottish foodscape. Sour, salty olives spice up the beef, brings zing and a life to this soft-textured cut. But that’s enough of protein. Time for cheeses, smooth, potent, exemplary and then for sweetness, for Entremets amandine à la pomme verte et son granité, an exquisite example of French pâtisserie and the understanding of how a light, luxuriously squidgy almond cream needs the sharpness of a Granny Smith apple to lead you from mouthful to mouthful. And just in case I haven’t had quite enough, a Florentin aux avelines, mousse voire et fruit de la passion, a hazelnut florentine, all toasted-wheat-and-butter flavours with an absurdly indulgent white chocolate mousse made honest by intense passion fruit, just dots the ‘I’s’ and crosses the ‘T’s’, as it were, of a memorable lunch. It confirms just how much this country has owed, still owes, to French gastronomy, how, when food is imagined with this sophistication, cooked with this level of skill and served with this level of charm and consideration, really there’s nothing to match it. ‘Finished, Mr Fort?’ Diego Masciaga materialises at my elbow. ‘Oh, I think so,’ I say. Florentin aux avelines, mousse voire et fruit de la passion 10 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 11 Beautifully Prepared Homes Across London and the Home Counties, Berkeley offers contemporary urban apartments – from studio pieds à terre to triplex penthouses, refurbished historic buildings, traditional executive family homes and innovative mixed-use schemes – all guaranteed to express the essential Berkeley values of quality, style and unrivalled service. Our homes combine leading-edge design whilst maintaining and renovating key elements from our architectural heritage. From our London homes to our more traditional rural communities in the Home Counties – Berkeley is renowned for delivering schemes that set new standards. Currently developing new homes in: London: Belgravia, Kensington, Wimbledon, Chelsea, The Strand, Westminster, Tower Bridge, Kew and The City Home Counties: Berkshire, Oxfordshire, Hampshire, Surrey, Sussex and Kent If you would like any futher information on these developments please visit www.berkeleygroup.co.uk THE ART OF ALESSI Josh Sims discusses life, style and industry with Italian design guru ALBERTO ALESSI. D “ esign is certainly more popular now,” says Alberto Alessi, puffing on his cigar. “Forty years ago interest in it was niche, even if the industry itself was that much bigger. Now many more people understand and appreciate it. But now there is a lot of bad design about too. And in fact that is only muddling understanding of what is good and bad design. There’s all the mass-media too, TV especially – that’s not a contribution to forming good taste.” Alessi might well have a strong opinion on the matter. His company’s products have become such totems of chic living, statements of one’s design sensibility, that over the last 30 years or so home-owners have bought into Alessi to the tune of a €100m turnover and sales to 60 countries. Alessi, arguably, has been at the vanguard of the kitchen’s re-birth as the domestic space that most typically shows off our status. If other cutlery, coffee pot and crockery-makers have made the conventional, Alessi has made the consciously quirky, and the cultish, with the help of worldclass designers the likes of Achille Castiglioni, but also Joe Colombo and Ettore Sottsass, Richard Sapper and Michael Graves, not to 14 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE mention artists including Salvador Dali and Gio Pomodoro. Small wonder then, that – a little bit of Italy in a corner of France – The Waterside Inn is no less an homage to Alessi products too. From coffee cups to milk jugs to fruit stands, pepper mills to paper baskets, wine stands to wine coolers, tea strainers to coffee makers, Alessi products are found everywhere – even in the toilets, where the brush comes courtesy of Alessi too. “You have to be conscious of functional needs of a kitchen – what shape a bowl needs in order to be able to hold it to whisk its contents well, or the requirements of a pan in which to cook pasta, which may be as simple as ensuring it has the right handle or a restaurant but also fashion,” explains Alberto Gozzi, consultant to Alessi and the man charged with bringing designer and Alessi project together. “But you also have to be aware of fashion – for example, it was once the case that any up-market restaurant had to have everything in silver, but obviously that’s not the case anymore, just as copper has been replaced by stainless steel in the kitchen. Sometimes you have to be mindful of traditional forms too.” “But I have never been overly concerned with that idea that form should always follow function,” Alessi says. “If you’re creating a bottle opener, for example, in a market in which devices for doing that already exist, then the function of the opener actually becomes to provide a more beautiful version.” THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 15 Coming this Autumn from Quadrille Published on October 3rd 2011 “But you also have to be aware of fashion – for example, it was once the case that any up-market restaurant had to have everything in silver, but obviously that’s not the case anymore, just as copper has been replaced by stainless steel in the kitchen. Sometimes you have to be mindful of traditional forms too.” All books by Michel Roux are available at The Waterside Inn, and all good bookstores Quadrille PUBLISHING Indeed, many of the Alessi pieces around The Waterside Inn are classical and understated such they would not have appeared out of place a century ago. Yet others are more obviously characteristic of the brand – a playful, fun style with which the Alessi company has made its name, through which, Alberto Alessi argues, it has survived. “Did the company need the fun I helped to introduce to the products? I don’t know,” says Alessi, head of design and now president of the Italian family business established by his grandfather 90 years ago this year “But I do think play is fundamental to business activity. And I know that when the company started out there were maybe 30 others in a similar field. And now there is just us. Perhaps it saved us. Production costs with average industrial products are just so high that competition is impossible when the same item can be made in China for perhaps four times less.” Alessi’s response to this predicament has been three-fold. For one, the company has acted more like a gallery curator or film producer: to tap into the world’s leading design talents and organise that talent to create products that are understood by enough customers to make them viable. The other big idea has been to pay as much attention to the everyday products we unconsciously develop a relationship with, as to the show-stoppers that look great on the counter-top – to give as much attention to the shape of a spoon as he might to the many collaborative projects that have seen the company also design cars, bathrooms, phones and watches. It is in precisely the more humble objects, he stresses – among the 100 or so it will produce this year alone – that Alessi the company finds its competitive edge. And yes, the teaspoons at The Waterside Inn are Alessi too. “Throughout history small objects can be masterpieces of applied arts, from vases to salt cellars, and that is what we offer,” says Alessi. “But I have never been overly concerned with that idea that form should always follow function,” Alessi says. “If you’re creating a bottle opener, for example, in a market in which devices for doing that already exist, then the function of the opener actually becomes to provide a more beautiful version.” Alberto Alessi’s transformation of the family firm from effective steel works to design manufacturer has not been without its conflicts. Alessi’s father Carlo, who died in 2009, always thought Alberto’s preferred direction to be too radical, with more traditional products a safer route. But Alberto had kicked against what was expected from the outset. While there was little doubt that his career would be in the family business – the traditions of such in Italy being so strong, he even refers to it as “an issue of destiny” – the realisation of the fact only hit him when he was 18 and his father insisted he study economics. Head-strong, he insisted on architecture. Between them, they compromised on law. “What did I learn from my studies? Probably nothing. At least nothing important,” he says. But at least it was close enough to his artistic bent to ensure this was not overwhelmed by a regard for the bottom line. “What we really do is commercial art. Like fashion, cinema, maybe even a rock concert, it’s the form of art addressed to a much wider audience,” Alessi explains. “That means there are limits to what we can do. Well, not what we can do, but what will be appreciated by our customers. If a product is not accessible, you don’t sell it. But we still make items even knowing they’re less accessible and will make less money. And let’s say that sometimes other family members and employees don’t quite agree with that approach. Of course profit is essential to survive,” he adds. “There’s no question about that. But it is not the most important issue and most mass-production companies don’t understand that. There’s less and less poetry in the little things because of mass production, which in contemporary culture is dominated by marketing. But before I’m an industrialist I’m a human being who needs poetry. And we all need more of that.” THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 17 FROM BEAN TO BAR FROM BEAN TO BAR ALAIN AND THE C H O C O L AT E FA C TO R Y Rosie Birkett travelled to Valrhona’s headquar ters in Tain-l’Hermitage with Alain Roux to discover how the superior culinary chocolate is made. W “ e’ve always used Valrhona,” says Alain Roux as we arrive at the small but charming Le Mangevins bistro in Tain L’Hermitage for a spot of lunch before we get down to the hungry business of learning about how Valrhona make their exquisite chocolate. “The support they offer to pastry chefs is fantastic,” he adds, referring to the way in which the chocolate producer works with professional chefs to support and impart product knowledge and recipe know-how. As we tuck into fresh plates of ravioles de Royans – a local dish of tiny ravioli filled with Comte cheese and topped with poutargue [dried grey mullet eggs], Alain recalls how he used to enjoy the speciality when he was living nearby in Valence – working at Restaurant 18 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE Pic under legendary chef Jacques Pic, whose daughter Anne-Sophie now holds the reins, and three Michelin stars. “I used to have these as a snack with friends when we came back from a night out – they were a staple for us then, often rolled in cream,” he smiles. After we’ve polished off main courses of braised piglet, washed down with some delicious local Domaine Yves Cuilleron Côte-Rôtie red (the restaurant is a brilliant showcase of small, local growers) we enjoy some individually-wrapped Valrhona chocolates from a glass on our table. That even this humble, 20-cover bistro – which favours small, independent wine makers and suppliers – has Valrhona on offer reflects the values of terroir and passionate production that lie at the heart of the brand, as we’re about to find out. “It is not by chance that Valrhona put the taste of an agricultural product at the centre of its strategy,” explains Pierre Costet, Valrhona’s resident cocoa expert that afternoon. In one of the presentation rooms at Valrhona’s HQ, he takes us through the cocoa procurement and rigorous quality control process employed by the brand, explaining the parallels between the wine and chocolate making that occur in this part of the Rhone. “Here in the Rhone Valley for many years, people have been cultivating grapes to make very good wine, so it has been for a long time here that the quality of a product has a strong connection with the environment.” To illustrate his point he then shows us two pictures – one of a wine maker in a local vineyard, and one of a Valrhona cocoa grower on an Ecuadorian plantation. “In this picture you have the terroir and the environment – the soil, the vine and the wine maker who knows how to transform this grape into a very good wine. That’s the terroir. For cocoa it’s exactly the same thing. Everything you know about wine you can apply to cocoa. This guy is living in Ecuador, you can see the fever he’s got in his eyes. We are not looking for cocoa, we are looking for people who are eager to make very good cocoa and we are looking for terroirs. We’re looking for taste.” Pierre goes on to explain about the three different cocoa varieties: Criollo, Forastero and Trinitario (a hybrid of Criollo and Forastero), and the countries and suppliers that the company works with directly to ensure quality and sustainable sources. But, he explains, it’s not all about variety. “Variety is only part of the quality,” he says. “You can have a good Criollo, but if it’s planted and cultivated wrong it won’t give good cocoa.” To this end, to guarantee the constant quality of its cocoa beans, the chocolate brand has long-term partnerships with local producers, who work with its experts like Pierre during every stage of the cultivation process. “Our purpose is not to create many farms,” he says. “We want the farms to really understand cocoa farming.” After Pierre’s insightful presentation we meet Vanessa Lemoine, a miraculously petite lady (given that a big part of her job is tasting chocolate) who holds the intriguing title of Sensory Analysis Manager. “I train people to taste and check every aroma in our chocolate,” she explains. “We have 30 chocolate experts here at Valrhona and more than 200 people that taste the chocolate every day to check the quality of the product at every stage.” That’s how seriously this company takes the matter of taste. Vanessa then shows us what she calls ‘the cut test’, which is the first assessment the cocoa beans go through when they are received from growers. Beans are placed in a special guillotine machine that slices them straight down the middle, so that Vanessa and her colleagues can look at things like colour, texture and smell to see if it’s a good batch of beans that have been fermented correctly. We are not looking for cocoa, we are looking for people who are eager to make very good cocoa and we are looking for terroirs. We’re looking for taste.” Costet Pierre THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 19 FROM BEAN TO BAR FROM BEAN TO BAR After an explanation of how aroma, taste and smell are linked, we get down to the tasting – which is more complicated than you might think, as Vanessa explains how her professional tasters carry out the taste test. “First, snap the chocolate in your fingers to get a feel for how it’s been tempered and to release the aromas,” she says. “Then rub the chocolate between your tongue and your palate so that it starts to melt, and exhale through the nose.” Sure enough, this is the most intense and effective way of tasting chocolate. We try more than our fair share of the different chocolates, and are impressed by the varieties of aroma and flavour profiles that we experience. Guanaja (70%), the groundbreaking chocolate that was the most bitter in the world when it was released by Valrhona in 1986, is a deep, dark and incredibly grown-up affair, while the Majari, which comes from a single Madagascan estate, is heady with red fruit and the Alpaco is more floral, calling to mind jasmine and soft praline. “The variety is incredible,” says Alain as he takes another chocolate to scrutinise. The famous chocolate, which is a favourite among pastry chefs and the top tiers of high gastronomy (its latest marketing campaign bears a stack of chocolate emblazoned with the names including Bocuse, Ducasse, Pic and Robuchon) has been produced at the factory in the 20 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE Rhone Valley since 1922. Over that time it’s grown – the production site moving from its original premises in the centre of town to accommodate the increased production – but it’s been determined to stay close to the original values set out by its founding pâtissier. At the core of this is Valrhona’s dedication to working with professional chefs such as Alain, providing them with specific products and services to enhance their desserts. Part of this ethos is the Ecole de Grand Chocolat cookery school that was set up by the brand’s legendary pastry chef Frederic Bau in 1989. The following day, after an exquisite lunch at Frederic’s restaurant Umia – which is set among the rolling vines of a nearby vineyard – we head to the school to check it out. Our guide, Thierry Castel, tells us that 700-800 professional chefs enroll in the school each year, with some classes also being attended by the general public. The extensive, impressive facilities include three lab classrooms, complete with an ‘enrobing machine’ – an incredibly handy machine that tempers chocolate. In these classroom labs, students are taught pastry recipes by experts – learning everything from opalines and sorbets to ganaches and sauces, and interestingly, what they’re taught does not all revolve around chocolate or Valrhona’s products. As Thierry explains: “the more people that get to knowledge about pastry, the more they will use good products. So we need to promote pastry in general, and that is part of our philosophy.” A walk around the chocolate factory, where the air is warm and thick with melting chocolate, reveals that while the production site may have got bigger and more technically advanced over the years (this site was built in 2003), the traditions that underpin the brand are still very much alive. Most of the machines that Valrhona chooses to use are an average of 40 years old because the chocolate makers find that they yield the best results, and parts of the production (like the painstaking handdecoration) are still done by hand. It’s fascinating to see and taste the chocolate at different stages of the production, and to note how different the product tastes when still in its raw form. When we try the cocoa nibs, before they have been refined and mixed with the other ingredients like cocoa butter and vanilla, it’s a very acidic, bitter and lasting flavour that while not palatable on its own, implies the potential that will be realised when the recipe is completed. “It’s great to come here and see how the product is being made – from bean to bar,” concludes Alain, who has clearly been impressed by the dedication to taste, quality and terroir that we have seen from Valrhona during our visit. For more information about Valrhona chocolate visit www.valrhona.com www.drouhin.com of the night Silent, smooth and sleek – the new Rolls-Royce Ghost is like no spirit ever seen before. T Michel Roux pays homage outside hotel Chateau Du Montreuil he journey began like many others, packing, checking, discussions and then the anticipation, not just for where you will be going but how you will be getting there and that is where the similarities to a regular journey end. Starting at three Michelinstarred restaurant The Waterside Inn, the Rolls-Royce Ghost was true to its name, a spirit in the early morn it glides towards the chosen destination – Paris – to pick up world-renowned chef ambassador Michel Roux. With a powerful 6.6 litre V12 engine the Ghost makes little work of the English countryside as it heads for France. The twincoloured body work of dark indigo and sleek silver work in perfect harmony as it cruises over the landscape. As it moves the self-righting wheel centres stay upright so that all around can be sure that this is a Rolls-Royce – not that those inside could forget. The luxurious interior offers comfort that one could only expect to find in their private boudoir, in this case smooth and supple cream leather seats paired with snug wool carpets and sleek wood veneer surrounds. Chrome handles and buttons ensure that your every need is taken care of whether passenger or driver. A striking presence in Montreuil 22 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 23 For drivers, the drive is one of your life – smooth and smart the Ghost simply and easily owns the road. Offering cruise and speed control, just set to the required speed on long journeys and the Ghost will lead the way, breaking and accelerating where necessary. The vibration alert ensures that control is firmly kept and will warn you if you happen to drift between lanes. The dashboard is fully equipped so that you can demand the same control from the car as it does of the road – showing everything from speed and time to track and volume the dashboard is also highlighted on the screen as an unobtrusive hologram so that eyes need not even leave the road. That same control is maintained in the dark as the infrared camera reads the road for any animals or obstructions that may pose a hazard. This same camera is equally as necessary when reversing as it switches into colour mode together with the reversing alarm so that you can see exactly what is behind or in front of you at all times. En route to Paris, many of the features were put into practice, some are things so apparent that you wonder how you have ever lived without them and some so simple that you have mastered them in a number of seconds – the in-built satellite navigation system for instance, with a dual-screen option so that those in front can change the settings without losing the route. As well as all this the Ghost is a powerful machine with an 8-speed ZF gearbox that means it can accelerate from 0 to 62mph in just 4.9 seconds, and in perfect silence, so that those inside can enjoy the speed of the road and not the sound of the car. Within minutes the Ghost arrives in Paris to collect Michel Roux, settling comfortably into the passenger seat, Michel discusses the technical specifications of the car before enjoying the short ride to Relais & Châteaux hotel La Briquetterie set in the heart of the Champagne region. Unfortunately the weather has turned since Paris and the threat of rain is overhead, however the custom-made umbrellas sheathed in the doors are a welcome relief from the spots of rain that fall. As Michel exits the car through the coach doors he comments on the comfort and quietness of the journey from Paris. A visit to Epernay For passengers (and driver of course) the panoramic sunroof, reclining seats and hot and cold air conditioning are just the basic facilities that the Ghost offers. Other features such as hot and cold seat temperatures, seat massagers and full surround sound in both the front and back of the car, with in-car entertainment in the form of TV, DVD and music choices are specially designed so that passengers can sit back and enjoy the ride. QUICK FIRE FACTS Vehicle length 5399 mm / 212.6 in Vehicle width 1948 mm / 76.7 in Vehicle height (unladen) 1550 mm / 61.0 in Wheelbase 3295 mm / 129.7 in Engine / cylinders / valves V / 12 / 48 Power output @ engine speed 563 bhp / 420 kW / 570 PS @5250 rpm Max torque @ engine speed 780 Nm / 575 lb ft @ 1500 rpm Compression ratio / fuel type 10:1 / premium unleaded2 Top speed 155 mph / 250 km/h (governed) Acceleration 0-60 mph 4.7 sec Acceleration 0-100 km/h 4.9 sec 24 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE After a stay at La Briquetterie the Ghost is back on the road once more. When faced with a long journey ahead to the second stop, passenger and driver show little worry for discomfort as they know the drive will be smooth and stressfree in the Ghost. Stopping at the Château du Montreuil just an hour from Calais and another member of the Relais & Châteaux family the Ghost owns the road with ease, and with coveted looks and awe from bystanders this Ghost is definitely a car to be seen and not heard. It is here that Michel Roux departs and the Ghost returns to the roads of the UK once more. For more information about the Rolls-Royce Ghost visit www.rolls-roycemotorcars-sunningdale.co.uk or call +44(0)1344 871200 Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Sunningdale London Road Sunningdale SL5 0EX En route to Paris, many of the features were put into practice, some are things so apparent that you wonder how you have ever lived without them and some so simple that you have mastered them in a number of seconds On the streets of Montreuil THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 25 A luxury Relais & Châteaux hotel with a panoramic view over the bay of Saint-Tropez. The Villa Belrose is situated in Gassin, only a few minutes away from SaintTropez, on a hilltop with an exceptional view. Built following a typical Mediterranean style, enshrined in a private domain of 7,000 m² the Villa Belrose has only 40 suites and rooms. Since 2002, the restaurant boasts in the Michelin Guide. The Chef Thierry Thiercelin proposes a Mediterranean cuisine based upon local products. Having dinner on the terrace becomes an unforgettable experience both for your eyes and taste buds. A TRIP TO Saint-Tropez Saint-Tropez – the heart of the French Riviera and home away from home for the Roux family – and with tranquil landscapes, rolling hills and beautiful beaches it’s easy to see why. In this section of the magazine we celebrate the best of Saint-Tropez, from the luxury hotel where chef Alain Roux and his wife Laura celebrated their wedding, to fresh tastes from local seafood restaurant and Michel Roux favourite, Le Table du Mareyeur. And if that wasn’t enough to make Saint-Tropez the home of relaxation we take a moment to unwind with the latest offering from Saint-Tropez vineyard Château Minuty. Hotel Villa Belrose Boulevard des Crêtes La Grande Bastide F- 83580 Gassin/Saint Tropez Phone +33 (0) 4 /94 55 97 97 Fax +33 (0) 4 /94 55 97 98 [email protected] www.villabelrose.com THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 27 Alain and Laura Roux married in August A happy 2010. Alain tells us all about the big day and the birth of their son, Paul. I “ can’t believe it’s been nearly a year,” Alain exclaims when asked about his wedding to Laura Delmas, “It feels like it was just yesterday.” The wedding itself was a small affair taking place in Gassin, close to Saint-Tropez – a regular destination for the Roux family who enjoy spending time in the South of France. The celebrations began with a congratulations party held at the Bergerie, the Roux home in the south of France. The small group, comprising mainly of family met together on the terrace around the pool enjoying the surroundings and in excited anticipation for the happy couple. “It was a fantastic event – so relaxed,” explains Alain, “Robyn organised the decorations and it was beautiful with a banner wishing us congratulations on our special day and each guest was given a diamond shaped paperweight with our names engraved, which was a lovely touch.” At the celebration guests enjoyed seafood from local restaurant and friend of the family La Table du Mareyeur – a seafood specialist based in Port Grimaud near SaintTropez with a reputation for the finest quality fresh seafood platters of lobster, langoustine and shrimp. Together with dishes of paella and local cheeses from Aubrac, there was plenty to please everyone with desserts of ice 28 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE “We were so excited but obviously we had the wedding to think about first but the arrival of the baby was in the forefront of our minds,” cream, red fruits and a special cake cooked on the spit, a ‘gâteau à la broche’ made by Laura’s grandmother Denise to finish. “It was lovely to be able to spend time with our families together and in such good weather – Laura’s sister Julie wrote and sang us a song and my nieces did a funny dancing show, so we had entertainment as well,” Alain continues. The wedding ceremony, held the following day at the Town Hall in Gassin close to the hotel, was a low-key affair; never one for drama Alain was pleased to celebrate the event with his family. “François Matton from winemakers Château Minuty actually performed the ceremony,” Alain revealed, “He used to be second in command to the mayor in Gassin so it was a pleasure to have him conduct the service.” FAMILY Following the service the group went to Saint-Tropez’s Hôtel Villa Belrose, a Relais & Châteaux property set in the hills and overlooking the Bay of Saint-Tropez. It was there that they enjoyed a fantastic lunch cooked by chef Thierry Thiercelin, of Langoustines pochées dans un court-bouillon au goût d’un jardin niçois, Filet mignon de veau en aiguillette sur un nid de pâtes farcies and finishing with L’idée d’une tarte ‘Tatin’ aux pêches blanches et glace à la menthe. The meal was finished with a croquembouche much to the delight of the bride and groom, “that was a lovely suprise organised by Alain,” adds Laura, “it was such a amazing piece – we were all wowed by it, that was very special.” Relaxed and happy the guests returned home in the afternoon,“then it was just us and on our wedding night Laura surprised me by taking me to a treetop hotel which was in a vine field near the sea – everything in there was made out of wood. It was a great experience and such a nice surprise and I didn’t have a clue about it!” Alain enthused. When the couple returned to England they began anticipating and planning a new event. Already five months pregnant when they married Laura was due to have her baby in December. “We were so excited but obviously we had the wedding to think about first but the arrival of the baby was in the forefront of our minds,” Laura explains. The couple had a fairly calm couple of months together before the birth but Alain remembers one occasion, “we were visiting my sisters in Paris in September – to collect toys and clothes that they had given us – and Laura started having contractions but luckily it was a false alarm,” Alain recalls. Instead baby Paul arrived in perfect timing. At around quarter to 12 at night when Alain was just finishing work Laura’s contractions started and Alain took her to the hospital, Paul was born at 4.13am on the 29th November 2010. “We were so excited and happy,” Alain says, “Laura had a natural birth using a water bath and it was such an amazing time.” Laura agrees,“I had been to active birth classes which really helped prepare me. It meant that I could relax and enjoy the experience,” she notes. “Laura was great –nine months can sometimes feel like a long time when you’re waiting for something but it’s nothing in the grand scheme of things. He is absolutely beautiful and now the time is flying by!” THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 29 the taste of QUALITY Set in the heart of Port Grimaud, nestled in the Bay of St Tropez, Le Table du Mareyeur is proud to provide the highest quality fish and seafood to its customers. 30 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE L a Table du Mareyeur has been committed to quality for over 20 years – quality in the produce which is sourced responsibly and sustainably, quality in the surroundings with its magnificent waterside terrace and quality in the friendly and personal service Ewan and Caroline and their team offer on a daily basis to all guests. After training at Lausanne Hotel Management School together, Ewan and Caroline settled in Port Grimaud, known as the ‘Provençale Venice’, and have built up an excellent reputation over the years for serving fresh seafood and fish in an uncomplicated manner – never following fad or fashion but at the same time never standing still. Although La Table du Mareyeur features in few guidebooks or reviews, their dedication to quality and ‘hands on’ approach are characteristics shared with Michel and Alain Roux who visit regularly with family and friends or who call on the home delivery service when entertaining guests at the family holiday home in Gassin. La Table du Mareyeur offers its guests a spectacular setting directly on the waterside in which to enjoy fresh simple seafood and fish. For a fantastic experience all round a taxi boat service within the Bay of Saint Tropez area allows clients to reach La Table du Mareyeur directly and easily whilst avoiding the traffic. La Table du Mareyeur offers a ‘prix fixe’ lunch menu at 25€ with wine and coffee included as well as seafood platters and grilled fish à la carte. LA TABLE DU MAREYEUR ALSO OFFERS: ÁÁ Home and yacht delivery service ÁÁ Private pontoon and moorings ÁÁ Event organization and party planning ÁÁ Open from March until November and for Christmas and New Year LA TABLE DU MAREYEUR SEAFOOD & FISH RESTAURANT 10 & 11 Place des Artisans, 83310 Port Grimaud Tel: +33 494560677 Email: [email protected] Web: www.mareyeur.com THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 31 blend AN ELEGANT Winemakers Château MINUTY introduce their latest release – Cuvée OR. 2010 saw Château MINUTY, ‘Cru Classé in Côtes de Provence’ for the first time reveal its Cuvée OR – the ultimate expression of its wine conception. A special bottle was designed with an emphasis on simplicity, elegance and shape which expresses the similar characteristics of the wine. BLANC ET OR ‘Blanc et OR’ is a subtle association of sauvignon and viognier creating a elegant blend of delicate flavour. The two grape varieties, native sauvignon from the Bordeaux area and the viognier of the Côtes-du-Rhône create a completely different aroma from traditional Côtes-de-Provence’s white wines. The wine’s bouquet reveals some intense notes of passion fruit and its well-round and fragrant taste is harmonious and well-balanced. ROSÉ ET OR ‘Rosé et OR’ obtains an unanimous welcome during its launch under the 2009 vintage, and has established the popularity of rosés from Château MINUTY. Through ‘Rose et OR’, the estate’s owners, Jean-Etienne and François Matton, wished to express their ultimate conception of a rosé; a natural wine which gives an immediate pleasure in the mouth. Elaborated with 95 per cent of grenache, the king of the rosé’s grape varieties, the vintage 2010 challenges the excellence of the previous one. This blend creates a rosé with a vibrating expression which is a concentration of greedy aromas, with an intense freshness which offers a full expression of fruits. ROUGE ET OR ‘Rouge et Or’ is the result of the knowledge of Jean-Etienne and François, with many investments made to the wine-making process. The best juices derived from the procedure were then dedicated to this new vintage which would be complete only when it had met the requirements of Jean-Etienne and François. In fact Jean-Etienne and François are so keen on the quality that they actually postponed the launch of ‘Rouge et OR’ after reflecting on the taste. Now this ‘Rouge et OR’ gives a new image to the reds of Côtes-de-Provence. This deep red wine is composed of 80 per cent mourvèdre and expresses powerful aromas of cherry. Its delicate and silky texture matches perfectly with its deep palate and exceptional balance. The regularity and the quality of the work of Château MINUTY allows it to be exported and to be present on the most beautiful tables of the world. For more information about the Cuvée OR range please visit www.minuty.fr 32 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 33 Room to RELAX S e t i n t h e h e a r t o f F r a n c e ’s C h a m p a g n e r e g i o n , E S CA P E A N D D I N E I N ST Y L E WITH RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX IN THE U NITED KINGDOM AND IRELAND Book a Charming British or Irish Escape in one of our country house or city hotels and experience great British or Irish food at it’s best prepared by some of the most renowned chefs. From just £350* per couple… Participating hotels: Airds Hotel & Restaurant, Amberley Castle, The Bath Priory, Buckland Manor, Chewton Glen, Cliff House Hotel, The Connaught, Farlam Hall, Gidleigh Park, Gilpin Hotel & Lake House, Glenapp Castle, Gravetye Manor, Hambleton Hall, Inverlochy Castle, Kinloch House, Lime Wood, Longueville Manor, Lower Slaughter Manor, Lucknam Park, Mallory Court, Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, Marlfield House, The Royal Crescent Hotel, Sharrow Bay, Sheen Falls Lodge, Summer Lodge Country House Hotel & Spa, The Vineyard at Stockcross, The Waterside Inn, Whatley Manor, Ynyshir Hall. *VAT may not already be included in some hotels. Dinner without drinks. This offer is valid all year for any holidays taken before December 30th, 2011 included. Reservations must be made at least 72 hours prior to arrival date and are subject to availability. Changes may be done without prior notice. Rate based on two people sharing a double room. Accommodation in a double classic or superior room, a dinner for 2 people and a sumptuous breakfast for 2 the following morning. Euros will apply in hotels in Ireland. For reservations please call 00 800 2000 00 02** ** Toll free number www.relaischateaux.com Relais & Châteaux hotel Hostellerie La Briqueterie with its landscaped gardens, soothing spa and s t y l i s h d e c o r i s t h e p e r f e c t p l a c e t o r e s t a n d r e l a x . F or those arriving at the Hostellerie La Briqueterie it is easy to see why this destination is so popular. Close to the highly successful champagne trails and surrounded by vineyards of three major champagne producers the hotel is a highlight for visitors to the region, with many guests traveling from Paris for a short break in the hills. But the lure of champagne is not the only reason that Hostellerie La Briqueterie is on the map – this four-star hotel is famed for its ability to make visitors comfortable and relaxed. Arriving at the curving driveway at the entrance of the hotel and entering the beamed reception the surrounding decoration instantly helps guests to feel at home. Warm fabrics and soft materials perfectly paired with cool stone walls and tiled floors, not to mention the quirky additions of wooden carousel horses, add a cheerful air to the property. Offering 40 bedrooms throughout and carefully divided into classical, superior, deluxe and suites, each room has its own specific style and decoration. Together with unobtrusive technology of flatscreen televisions and WiFi, visitors can settle back in the comfortable armchairs or spread out on the large bed. Complete with en-suite bathrooms, plush furnishings and eye-catching fabric wall coverings this is just the beginning of the relaxation process. President Alix Philipon has always seen this hotel as a spot of tranquillity from the busy streets of Paris and has made it her goal to ensure that the hotel is as peaceful and relaxing as possible. Having always worked in the hospitality industry Alix has a very good idea of what people want from the surroundings and atmosphere of a hotel. “I also manage a hotel in Paris,” she says, “but the needs of the visitors are completely different to those here. In the country people spend a lot of time in the hotel, they want to take in their environment, enjoy spending time in their rooms and the gardens – I try to bear that in mind when I am redecorating a bedroom or talking to staff about customer service.” THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 35 2 1 With 40 rooms to refresh and refurbish at her fingertips it is understandable that the hotel’s decoration is an area close to Alix’s heart, “I love working on the rooms, it is my favourite part of the job. Each room at the hotel is different so it’s a new challenge every time. When we first started at the hotel it was looking very tired, but now each room is fresh and bright and has its own character,” Alix explains. The key pieces to her room designs are the fabric wall coverings, pinned close to the wall so that they appear as smooth as wallpaper, “we have used them throughout all the rooms,” adds Alix, “each room a different pattern, but I always use Colefax and Fowler as a supplier, their prints are really striking and they are guaranteed to make an impact on people as they enter the rooms – it’s a definite talking point.” Although the comfort of the rooms is an important aspect for Alix she knows that being a member of Relais & Châteaux means offering quality in every area – and with a focus on relaxation in this hotel where else better to relax than the spa. Set in the lower levels of the hotel the unique Briqueterie spa offers everything needed for the perfect out-of-body experience with a little help from Carita and Decleor beauty products, and a selection of massages available. And if the treatments aren’t enough to chill out the guests then a gentle swim in the indoor pool, releasing the stress of the day in the sauna or enjoying real bubbles in the jacuzzi definitely will. “Creating a spa was one of the first developments that we 36 began when we undertook the hotel,”Alix explains, “Visitors were looking for something more than just a hotel with fine dining and comfortable rooms – the spa was a natural next step for us and is now a key reason for why people want to stay.” Guests can relax further into their stay by indulging in a meal set in the light spacious dining room – a recent redevelopment of the hotel. The large windows and high ceilings work perfectly with the grounds of the hotel, where the rolling hills of the surrounding landscape blend into the manicured landscapes. From the dining room diners can catch a glimpse of the fragrant rose garden, tranquil fountains and majestic trees while they enjoy a menu of fresh flavours and new tastes. A recent addition to the hotel, head chef Michael Nizzero brings classic cooking to a modern audience with a major impact of flavours. The menu includes dishes such as Veal sweetbread tartlet, pecan nuts, vinaigrette gourmande, Red mullet with tapenade crust, crushed basil potatoes, barigoule emulsion, finishing with dishes such as Mélimelo of red fruits, flavoured with lemon verbena, cactus crystalline – always using ingredients that are seasonal, fresh and full of flavour. Hailing from Belgium, Michael Nizzero comes to Hostellerie La Briqueterie with a wealth of culinary knowledge. Previously stationed at the three Michelinstarred restaurant, The Waterside Inn in Bray, England, Michael has worked closely with chef patron Alain Roux as well as with chef ambassador and chef legend THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE Michael Nizzero and Michel Roux “His intentions are very clear, he understands the flavour of the main component such as the red mullet and he uses ingredients that encourage rather than overpower which works well.” MICHEL ROUX Michel Roux in an accompanying role as sous chef on various worldwide visits. Michel Roux who recently visited Hostellerie La Briqueterie was proud of Michael’s achievements and complimentary about his menu. “His intentions are very clear, he understands the flavour of the main component such as the red mullet and he uses ingredients that encourage rather than overpower which works well. He leads his brigade by example and he’s an excellent teacher,” Michel says. Michael himself is unassuming about his talent, despite having worked in both two and three Michelin-starred restaurants for a number of years and moved from The Waterside Inn to have the opportunity of running his own kitchen and also to be closer to his hometown in Belgium. When asked how he describes his style of food Michael explains; “My style is modern classic, It’s important to me to work with quality ingredients. I work closely with my suppliers and have them on the phone every day and they show me new things – I try to keep things fresh and I personally go to the market twice a week to buy and check my products.” Working at The Waterside Inn has taught Michael many things over the years: flavours, styles and the ability to work well in a high-pressure environment, but Michael hasn’t finished learning yet. “Working at Hostellerie La Briqueterie has helped me to work on so many things – learning to run a kitchen and having a relationship with the guests, helping them choose from the menu, the guest satisfaction is 3 5 4 7 6 2 8 7 9 definitely a rewarding experience – to know they have enjoyed the food,” Michael enthuses. And what does Michael have planned for the future? “We are awaiting a new development in the kitchen which will be due to start over the next year. The current kitchen is to be expanded and set on one floor – this will make us more efficient and cost effective – enabling us to provide an even better service to our 1 Roasted lobster tail, thermidor garnish, watercress salad 2 Panfried John Dory, carrot purée, artichoke and liquorice sauce 3 Langoustine tartare flavoured with citrus, melba toast and Aquitaine caviar 4 Lamb loin, nutty potatoes cream, gratinated leeks 5 Red mullet with tapenade crust, crushed basil potatoes, barigoule emulsion 6 Veal sweetbread tartlet, pecan nuts, vinaigrette gourmande 7 Mango “crémeux” flavoured with rum and vanilla, star anise nougatine and sorbet 8 Poached peach flavoured with rosemary, dried fruit “dentelle” 9 Chocolate macaron flavoured with Indian pepper, soft ganache infused with yuzu and sorbet 10 Méli-melo of red fruits, flavoured with lemon verbena, cactus crystalline 10 guests,” Michael notes. “We’re looking forward to it.” The redevelopment of the kitchen isn’t the only plan that the hotel has in store. Set on a former brick-making factory, the eponymous hotel still holds a secret that is the former brick oven. This part-buried tunnel of bricks is where Alix and her team are planning the next renovation. “We’re looking into making this a wine cellar so that we can hold tastings for our guests. “We’re still looking into the particulars of all but we’re always looking for new ways to develop and grow,” Alix reveals. And where else better to hold a champagne tasting than in the heart of Champagne? For more information about Hostellerie La Briqueterie please visit www.labriqueterie.fr or contact +33 (0)3 26 59 99 99 for reservations. THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 37 A marriage of perfection... HILDON AT THE WATERSIDE INN W hile you would almost certainly expect to see the familiar blue and white labels of Hildon gracing the tables of the dining room and the bedrooms at The Waterside Inn, it should come as no surprise to find that this is the daily drinking choice of Alain Roux. An ever-present bottle residing on his busy desk attests to the fact that Hildon is very much his water of choice for everyday living, just as he views it as the perfect complement to fine dining at The Waterside Inn and everywhere he travels in the world. How Hildon Natural Mineral Water has become such a part of the Waterside Inn at Bray stems from Alain Roux’s determination to serve English water at this iconic restaurant beside the Thames. “I wanted to serve a water that matched the dishes we create here,” he explained. “It had to be naturally pure, cool and refreshing in taste and totally consistent in quality. Of course, it had to be recognised by our guests from all over the world as the finest to be found anywhere. They would expect nothing else. So, we started our long search for the perfect English water. Nothing we tasted matched Hildon and it has proved the perfect partner for us. Fine food and wines demand the very finest water. For us, it is like a perfect marriage.” For Hildon, the presence at The Waterside Inn represents another chapter in a continuing association with the finest of dining in the world‘s most renowned restaurants and hotels. A heritage that is jealously guarded, the Hildon reputation is one founded on total purity, the water being naturally filtered from its environmentally protected source, deep in the chalk hills which border the valley of Hampshire’s River Test. Naturally crystal-clear, its stable composition, perfect taste and health properties that include low sodium levels and high calcium content, have become universally acknowledged, establishing Hildon as the natural choice of the discerning palate and the perfect partner for the exquisite food and exceptional cellar at The Waterside Inn. A truly perfect partnership. Hildon Ltd, Broughton, Hampshire SO20 8DQ www.hildon.com √ +44 (0) 1794 301 747 W ROOM Robyn Roux discusses her love of interior design and how The Waterside Inn was transformed to become a restaurant avec chambres. 40 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE FOR DESIGN hen staying at The Waterside Inn it is easy to be a little in awe – perfect service, a warm atmosphere and of course the anticipation of a beautiful dinner. But when you have checked into your room and sat on the bed, as many guests do fatigued from travel and excitement, that is when the true awe begins, followed quickly by curiosity. Luxurious fabrics, beautifully shaped woodwork not to mention the sparkling sleek bathrooms and unobtrusive technology available in every room. The bedrooms at The Waterside Inn (otherwise known as the reason for said awe and curiosity) are created by none other than Robyn Roux, the creative innovator and unofficial interior designer of The Waterside Inn. Now a highly acclaimed restaurant avec chambres The Waterside Inn offers nine bedrooms and two suites available for guests who usually stay for a single night – but Robyn hasn’t always had so many rooms to play with. “For many years The Waterside Inn was just a restaurant, with the staff living in above the house. It made sense, because until the 1990s there was very little accommodation to rent in the local towns of Windsor and Maidenhead – it was a buyers’ market and so our staff lived here.” Robyn recalls that having live-in staff could be chaotic, “We purchased the house next door to create a private dining room in 1990 and soon after the rental market changed so we felt the staff would be healthier and happier living outside of the operation. The development of the dining room encouraged us to make the decision to create six guest bedrooms upstairs which we opened in 1992.” Together with architect Michael Sumner, Robyn worked on the rooms deciding on everything from curtains and carpets to door frames and bathrooms. One of the striking features of the rooms at The Waterside Inn are the curved ash doorways, each a perfect entrance into the most captivating of rooms. “The curved frames and the ash wood makes a beautifully soft background which works with practically anything” Robyn explains. And that was it, the beginning of stage one of restaurant avec chambres for The Waterside Inn and together with a small team Robyn began on the regeneration. “It was definitely a challenge,” she admits, “there were so many things to think about and I remember on our opening night as a restaurant with rooms I was going down the hall with the vacuum as the first guests were coming up – but we did it and everything went to plan.” THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 41 The Waterside Inn is now as well known for the chic and individual rooms as it is for the sublime menu and Robyn swears by her staple brand partnerships; “I started using Grange, a French company for all our furniture and it’s been a great partnership over the years. Not only do they produce comfortable attractive products, but more importantly they produce domestic furniture which stands up to commercial use.” Today Robyn still uses the same company in France as well as the paint and wallpaper brands that she selected when The Waterside Inn first redeveloped the rooms above the restaurant. Every bedroom at The Waterside Inn is different, each with its own charm and style but wouldn’t it have been easier for Robyn to create a sleek basic template with each room the same? “Oh, but that’s so boring!” she exclaims, “it’s so much fun when each room is different – not just for me but for the staff, they have to work in the environment every day so even they say, ‘can we get new curtains?!’ and I think they have only been up there two years!” Robyn’s idea of different rooms is proving extremely popular as her designs entrance guests who often make future reservations for their personal favourite. Now an ongoing ‘bridge-painting’ operation Robyn is on the lookout for more rooms to redecorate after the development of The Waterside Inn Tan Home in the summer of 2010 – a from-scratch project that really got her creative juices flowing. “I would love to redecorate a lot of the rooms, but it’s not practical, I do however look at the necessity of change. A recent room I redesigned was because the furnishings needed replacing, by the time we costed it in we realised that it wouldn’t cost much more to redesign it.” When redesigning rooms Robyn must consider a number of factors – captivating design is of course important but ease of use and practicality is equally high on her agenda. “It means that certain styles are just a no-go,” Robyn explains. “Unfortunately that means no to painted items, and that basic items such as bed linen and tablecloths need to be of the highest standard and although attractive in their own way quite simple in design,” she continues. ROOM FOR DESIGN It is these small details that really make it for Robyn, who over the last 20 years has the linen specifications down to a fine art and knows exactly what will and won’t work in the rooms, or almost; “I do struggle with carpets,” she admits, “they get the most wear and tear and I am partial to light colours which need to be replaced regularly – Michel will quite often say ‘haven’t you learnt by now,’ but it’s just my personal taste.” Visitors to The Waterside Inn will notice Robyn’s own eclectic choices as they move about the hotel, wood and glass pieces that both Robyn and Michel pick up on their travels work seamlessly with the room interiors. As these interiors change Robyn keeps excess furniture in storage until her next redevelopment. However, there is one room that is unlikely to change and continues to charm again and again. “The Boat House is one of our most popular rooms, it’s not the biggest but it’s clever and quirky and everyone loves it,” Robyn enthuses. This bijou bedroom, though small, offers plenty of light thanks to the wellplaced portholes while the trompe-l’oeil mural wows guests with its intricate design, “It’s just fantastic,” Robyn announces “we commissioned Lorraine Schneider who also painted the quirky bookshelf mural in the Tan Home, and she was such a sight to watch – electricians, decorators, plumbers watched in awe as Lorraine, the epitome of calm, painted her masterpiece – surrounded by chaos!” Now with nine rooms and two suites Robyn is used to the buzz of up-keeping a restaurant with rooms. “I’m glad of the small team I have,” she says, Tom Martell our decorator has worked with me for over 20 years, after taking over from his father, Shane Spiers the plumber and Kate Cornish who looks after soft furnishings equally as long. I know I can call on them whether it’s a complete refurb or just a call-out when something goes wrong.” And things occasionally do go wrong, a ‘bridge-painting’ operation Robyn calls it – and what a bridge to paint! THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 43 Patek Philippe boasts an unrivalled reputation as the finest watchmaker in the world, setting the highest technical and aesthetic standards within the industry. With such dedication to quality and service. Philippe and Thierry Stern values FAMILY 44 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE P atek Philippe is the last, privately owned, independent Genevan watch manufacture, now headed by fourth generation owner and President Thierry Stern, who understands and revels in the challenge of leading a family company renowned for making the most highly valued and desirable timepieces in existence. Patek Philippe watches are symbols of discernment and exclusivity, representing a lifelong statement of excellence and refinement. No other watch lends better expression to the true Patek Philippe style than the Calatrava. Created in 1932, this signature model showcases sleek lines and subtle elegance and is distinguished by a round case with a dial that displays the time in the most simplest way. Whether extra thin with hobnail pattern or wide polished bezels, the Calatrava design is always unmistakably classic, yet inherently contemporary. Innovation with tradition is a motto that has been constantly embraced by Patek Philippe, as demonstrated by more than 80 patents for in-house developments and inventions. One of the most recent and eagerly anticipated launches was the birth of the new movement, Calibre CH 29-535 PS, through which Patek Philippe yet again redefined the benchmark in chronograph architecture. In November 2009, as a tribute to the growing interest of women in complicated watches, the workshops decided to first integrate the new movement into a wrist chronograph for ladies, calling the beautiful new watch the Ladies First Chronograph. This rose gold model is available with two different dial colours, both featuring 136 brilliant round cut diamonds. Never before has a new, complicated movement debuted in a ladies’ model and so understandably there was much excitement among Patek Philippe collectors and enthusiasts in Spring 2010, when the brand new movement was finally presented in a gentlemen’s model. The very classic Ref. 5170J features a yellow gold case and is visibly reminiscent of the Patek Philippe 1940’s chronographs that rank among the most coveted treasures at auctions. A little revolution took place in Geneva in 1976, the launch of the Nautilus; a luxury watch in a steel case. At a time when the world of horology was competing for thinner watches, Patek Philippe introduced an oversized watch with an extravagant shape. The casual elegance of this ground breaking model inspired an instant cult following, which still exists today. Patek Philippe has recently extended the range introducing the first ladies automatic Nautilus in stainless steel for ladies, Ref. 7008/1A. This diamond-set model is available with three different dial versions, being satin-grey, blue tinted mother of pearl and black mother of pearl. A new era began for Patek Philippe recently, with the introduction of the Patek Philippe Seal. All of the manufacturer’s mechanical movements will be embossed with the exclusive Seal. This is the evolution of a philosophy of quality and independence that the workshops in Geneva have been systematically pursuing since the company was founded in 1839. The Patek Philippe Seal is the watch industry’s most exclusive and stringent hallmark of quality and is a promise personally backed by Thierry and his father, Honorary President Philippe Stern. Patek Philippe watches are available from Mallory’s of Bath 1 - 5 Bridge Street, Bath BA2 4AP Tel: 01225 788800 Fax: 01225 442210 E-mail: [email protected] www.mallory-jewellers.com THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 45 A Night to REMEMBER Colchester oysters with a cooling cucumber jelly, caviar and water biscuit with seaweed butter Lightly poached sole, filled with lobster mousse and surrounded by a light, creamy champagne sauce Bisque of Devon crab fragrant with stock, wine and aromatics and moist, nutty crab meat Roasted Challandaise duck with lightly spiced prunes and puy lentils In celebration of a quarter of a century of three Michelin stars, The Waterside Inn threw a gourmet dinner for Amex Black Card holders. Sliced pears and blueberries in shortbread biscuits with a red coulis ROSIE BIRKETT WAS THERE TO SAVOUR THE AMBIENCE. A s we reported in the previous issue of the magazine, last year The Waterside Inn celebrated 25 years of three Michelin stars in style by opening up its doors to the country’s Michelin-starred chefs and its most loyal guests. This issue we’re looking back at the American Express Black Card holders’ dinner, which was also held in honour of a quarter of a century of triple Michelin stardom, and saw some of American Express’ best clients invited to enjoy a gourmet dinner cooked by Alain Roux. Behind the scenes, the evening began with a pre-service team briefing being given (as it is before every service) by Diego, general manager and the restaurant’s master of ceremonies. Holding court in the restaurant at around 7pm, he updated his team on the night to come – explaining about the special celebratory Wedgewood cover plates that were to be laid out on the table for the guests 46 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE to see, then taken away, polished and boxed into party bags. Running through the menu for the night, he took special care to advise the team of guests (he knows them all by name) with dietary requirements and special preferences for certain wines – displaying the sort of attention to detail that has made him such a treasured asset at The Waterside Inn. After the briefing the first of the guests started to arrive and were invited to enjoy glasses of Champagne – a delicious 1998 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs – and canapés of quails eggs with cucumber and celeriac remoulade, foie gras domes and light-as-air cheese straws. Among the chatter and clink of glasses, an ebullient Robyn – ever the hostess – circulated and rubbed shoulders with these very special guests, who, though used to the best in hospitality, were clearly delighted with the treats being lavished on them. Then to supper, and after a brief and characteristically light-hearted welcome speech from Michel, who emphasised the long, fond relationship with American Express, the guests settled down to enjoy some very memorable food – each course a tribute to a year in The Waterside Inn’s three-Michelin starred history. And what a menu! A first course (from 2009) of plump, succulent Colchester oysters with a cooling cucumber jelly, caviar and water biscuit with seaweed butter was an elegant and delicious beginning to the meal – the minerality of the oysters offset by the umami seaweed butter. A crisp Riesling ‘R’ de Beyer 2002 (Domain Léon Beyer) provided a suitably sharp and refreshing accompaniment. Next came a rich, heady bisque of Devon crab (1998), fragrant with stock, wine and aromatics and an abundance of moist, nutty crab meat. Glistening tapioca pearls or ‘Japanese rice’ as it said on the menu gave it an added textural intrigue and touch of the orient, while the matching wine, a Chablis 1er Cru Montmain 2008 (Domain Gerard Tremblay) gave an invigorating citric accompaniment. The next course was a sublime and classic dish from 1987 – a white chicken boudin with Madeira and truffle sauce, as vital and exciting a dish as it was those many years ago. The chicken sausage was light and creamy, the sauce luxurious and a St Aubin Premier Cru “La Chategniere” 2006 (Vincent Girardin) was an aromatic, honeyed match, perfectly rounding off the dish. From 1990 came a delicate dish of lightly poached sole, filled with an indulgent lobster mousse and surrounded by a light, creamy champagne sauce. This was superbly matched to a buttery, rich Louis Jadot 2001 Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru “Referts”. A simple and satisfying dish of perfectly pink roasted Challandaise duck with lightly spiced prunes and puy lentils (2006) was delicious – the duck tender and flavourful, the prunes adding a sweet, sticky edge. A Chateau Haut- Bailly 2003 (Pessac Leognan) was a suitably ripe, structured and oaky match. Dessert came from the inaugural year of three Michelin stars – a sweet, comforting treat of sliced pears and blueberries in shortbread biscuits with a red fruit coulis from 1985. The accompanying wine was a Château Filhot Grand Cru Classé 2001 (Sauternes) – a light, fruity and floral match. To round off the evening a glowing Michel gave the sated guests a speech, in which he praised the hard work of his restaurant’s team. “Twenty-five years of three Michelin stars doesn’t happen just like that,” he said. “It’s down to teamwork and having a team who love what they’re doing. Diego is running this place like it’s his own business and we are lucky to have him, as I’m lucky to have a son like Alain, and a Belgian chap as well,” he joked in reference to head chef Fabrice. Michel also thanked the sommelier Simone, who was responsible for the fantastic wine matches. “He’s had to marry a wine with each dish and I think he’s done very well,” said Michel, “and he’s not put one Italian wine on our wine list,” he jokingly added in reference to Simone’s Italian heritage. At this point, the ever-modest Alain took to the microphone and thanked the guests for coming, as they enjoyed Hennessy Paradis cognac and petits fours with their coffee. “We tried all different shapes and we finally got the French fries shape for the chicken boudin – we know who made it,” he joked. “It was a joy to taste it – and we’re really happy you’re here and you enjoyed it – thank you.” He also talked of his excitement and anticipation at soon becoming a father for the first time, playfully reminding Michel that it would be his sixth grandchild, another addition to the Roux dynasty. Who knows, perhaps in another 25 years there will be another Roux junior making a similar speech... THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 47 TOP GUN George Digweed has just won his nineteenth world title in clay pigeon C’est Magnifique! shooting. We caught up with George to C’est L’Unico! ‘We use L’Unico Musetti espresso coffee at The Waterside Inn because it provides our guests with the blend they’d expect from us. The aroma, the quality, the consistency – it’s superb coffee.’ ALAIN ROUX L ’ U N I C O Unit 2-3 Hookers Road, London E17 6DP Te l : 0 2 0 8 5 3 1 2 6 6 2 F a x : 0 2 0 8 5 2 7 6 6 6 7 see how tough the competition really was. Congratulations on winning the nineteenth world title, what does this mean for your career? I’m at the stage where I’m personally thinking that it’s devaluing it a little bit. Only for the reason that because I’ve won quite a lot now people are starting to think I can go out and win them ad-lib so to speak – they’re not as easy to win as it seems. I walk into the local pub and people ask where I’ve been, I say ‘America for the world championship’, and they assume that I win and that it’s a god given. It’s not as easy as that, but it’s still a tremendous achievement and I’m very proud to have done it. How did you find the competition in comparison to competitions you’ve been in before? It was extreme, we went to San Antonio in the middle of Texas and it was 95 degrees. There was a howling wind blowing, and we were shooting different rotations. I was the only person to qualify for the super final from the rotation that 300 competitors shot in. It was a tough way round to get in but I was pleased to do it and to finish it off in the final. How much pressure does this put on next year and winning your 20th title? You’re only as good as your last result, and for me I’ve achieved a huge amount and I’m very privileged to have done so much in this sport. I never look further than my next event. I’m not getting any younger, I’m 47 now and to still be competing at a world level for me is something I wasn’t necessarily expecting to be able to do, so I’m going to take every opportunity that comes along. You have had an extremely successful career so far, what would you say are some of your proudest moments? I would think the proudest moment of my career was being able to take my wife, my mother and mother-in-law to Buckingham Palace to see me presented with an MBE. To win any world championship is a very proud moment in anybody’s career because there’s such a small minority of people that are in that chart. So any World or European championship I’ve won has always been a proud moment – I wouldn’t necessarily single any particular one out. With all these competitions comes a lot of travelling, is this something you enjoy? It’s got to the stage now where I love going to different countries and meeting up with old friends but the travelling side of it is a bit of a chore. Already this year I’ve been to New Zealand, South Africa, America, France, Russia, I’m going to Spain next week. It’s a time-consuming schedule but it’s part of the job and it comes with the territory. What would your advice be to anyone starting out as a clay pigeon shooter? Never be frightened to ask questions or to go out and watch people that are good at the sport. The best have got there for a reason and you can learn a huge amount by watching good people playing sport, whatever that sport may be. If you weren’t a professional clay pigeon shooter what do you think you’d be doing? I was still working in the shop in the butchery business till 1993 until I decided I would try and pursue a career in shooting. My ideal life would have been a professional cricketer, but then I might have had to work on my physique a bit more. For more information about shooting, visit the CPSA’s website www.cpsa.co.uk and to discover more about George, log on to www.georgedigweed.com “The best have got there for a reason and you can learn a huge amount by watching good people playing sport, whatever that sport may be.” THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 49 We believe in British Beef, the cold drizzly climate and lush green grass gives animals the best possible start MARK BIRCHALL OF L’ E N C L U M E W I N S ROUX SCHOLARSHIP 2011 Tradition’s an important thing to us here at Broad Stripe Butchers. Old-fashioned principles like careful maturing, generous cuts and a warm welcome are what makes our meat so special; they‘re even the reason behind the Broad Stripe name. The blue and white butcher’s apron has been worn for hundreds of years, and historically a broad blue stripe has always been the mark of a master butcher. People often use the phrase ‘third time lucky’, but for Tradition is one of the things that makes Casterbridge Grain Fed Beef so special; developed by our sister company Fairfax Meadow to provide the best quality beef to the foodservice industry, Casterbridge is English beef, sired from traditional breeds and sourced from selected farms in the six counties of South West England. Mark Birchall, the 29-year-old head chef at Simon Rogan’s The EBLEX Quality Standard Mark guarantees that every care has been taken to ensure the highest animal welfare and provide you with piece of mind that you will always get an excellent quality product. held on the 18th April at Westminster Kingsway College, in his Michelin-starred restaurant, L’Enclume in Cumbria, and winner of 2011’s Roux Scholarship, it was more a case of ‘fourth time lucky’. Birchall beat five other finalists in a close-run competition fourth and final year of entry, to win the legendary cooking competition and gain access into the elite ‘Roux Scholar’ club. At Broad Stripe Butchers we provide the very best gourmet meat, online delivered direct to your door. Expertly matured and butchered providing you with the same top quality meat at home, as in some of Britain’s top restaurants and hotels like The Waterside Inn. Visit us today for top quality meat delivered to your door tomorrow. www.broadstripebutchers.co.uk THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 51 A B OND W I T H E X C E L L E N C E H Everybody knows that chefs are obsessive about their ingredients, after all, the finest cooking can only be created from the finest raw materials. For truly great chefs like Alain Roux, this search for perfection begins with the cookware he uses, which is why he chose All-Clad for The Waterside Inn kitchens. All-Clad UK: 0800 083 1190 / [email protected] Discover All-Clad Special Offers on www.all-clad.co.uk is rendering of the complex classic Veal Orloff, a boned and stuffed rack of veal, impressed the panel of expert judges, who included Michel and Alain Roux. Later, 250 industry guests gathered to watch him claim his prize at a special evening ceremony at London’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Michel Roux OBE was full of praise for Birchall: “Mark was a clear winner, his dish was excellent, well seasoned and the cooking of each ingredient was bang on. After three previous attempts when his name wasn’t called, he could have given up – but his perseverance has paid off, he has honed his skills and shown great determination to succeed. This is what being a Roux Scholar is all about. Well done!” The Scholarship offers the winner a career-changing opportunity of a three-month stage at a three Michelin-starred restaurant anywhere in the world and since the competition, Birchall has revealed that he plans to travel to Girona in Spain and spend his stage at family- run restaurant El Celler de Can Roca. The restaurant, which has just been placed at number two in this year’s S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, is run by brothers Joan, Josep and Jordi – head chef, head sommelier/maitre d’ and head pastry chef respectively – and is focused around a philosophy of ‘emotional cuisine’. Of his decision to head to this particular restaurant, Birchall said: “I chose it because they use good techniques but they still respect regional traditions and produce, and it’s run by three brothers who will be there the whole time which will be very interesting. I’ve never eaten there but I’ve always followed it and wanted to eat there.” Birchall also commented that he is looking forward to visiting a region that has grown in gastronomic credibility over the past decade. “There’s loads of good places in the surrounding area too – it’s close to Barcelona and the restraurant Can Fabes which I’d like to eat at, and there’s plenty to do in the region.” Birchall becomes the 28th Scholar following on from Kenneth Culhane who is currently on his winning stage at Jean Georges in New York. Mark has been head chef at L’Enclume for the last five years. He said afterwards: “This was the toughest year of all my entries, without a doubt. None of us knew the dish or what it should look like. I knew that seasoning was going to be important and I just let my experience and food sense guide me. It’s an amazing feeling.” The six finalists were given the task of cooking roasted best end of veal Orloff style, kidney on skewers, stuffed vegetables and truffle jus from the Larousse Gastronomique, the symbol of classical French haute cuisine. Michel Roux Jr called it “an exceptionally hard dish to recreate”. The young chefs had two and a half hours to complete the task in front of the judges. Joining the Roux family this year were Brian Turner CBE, Gary Rhodes OBE, David Nicholls and James Martin. The guest judge was Steve Love, the Roux Scholar from 1997. The other five finalists were Quinton Bennett, Haymarket Hotel, London; Richard Edwards, Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Wiltshire; Pramod Ghadge, Restaurant Associates, London; Neven Vanderzee, Galvin at Windows, London and Nick Whatmough, Restaurant Associates, Barclays Wealth, London. An exciting feature of the 2011 final was the ‘fly on the wall’ film of the event produced by Cactus TV, which will form the backbone of ‘The Roux Legacy’, a newly commissioned series by UKTV for their Good Food Channel, set to air early next year. A highlight of the film was the Roux cousins, Michel Roux Jr and Alain Roux, demonstrating a masterclass of how the final dish should be cooked. The film also followed the finalists’ journeys and featured footage of last year’s Scholar, Kenneth Culhane, on his stage at Jean Georges in New York. The short film, shown at the final, will be released on the Roux Scholarship website soon. Visit www.rouxscholarship.co.uk for the film, further information and all the news from the final. THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 53 SWAN Upping The swans are For Bray, and most certainly The Waterside Inn, the River Thames is an important attribute of the local area and home to some very famous residents. B eautiful, graceful and owned by Her Majesty the Queen, swans are one of the more elegant residents of the River Thames. So important are these birds to the local area that an annual census known as the Swan Upping measures their population and health, to ensure that these birds will always be associated with the river and The Queen. Historically this ceremony was initiated in the twelfth century – as it was then that the Crown claimed ownership over all mute swans, as swans were an important dish served at banquets for the rich. The ownership of swans today still belongs to the Crown, although The Queen only exercises her ownership on specific areas of the Thames. Together this honour is shared with the Worshipful Company of Vintners and the Worshipful Company of Dyers – having been granted rights of ownership in the fifteenth century. Although swans are no longer eaten, their presence is still regarded as an important attribute of the River Thames. The Swan Upping measures the swan population of the River Thames as it runs through Middlesex, Surrey, Buckinghamshire, Berkshire and Oxfordshire. A ceremony steeped in tradition, the Swan Upping follows many Medieval practices all taking place over five days in the third week of July each year. Consisting of The Queen’s Swan Marker and the Royal Swan Uppers, the group use six traditional Thames rowing skiffs and all travel up the river dressed in customary scarlet uniforms. As well as sporting traditional dress the boats all fly specific flags and pennants as they depart from Sunbury Lock in Surrey and finish at the end of the week in Abingdon, Oxfordshire. The task of this trip is to count, weigh and measure 54 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE such beautiful creatures and it’s fantastic that this historical tradition continues to take the cygnets of the Thames in order to obtain estimates of growth rates – this procedure also means that cygnets can be checked for any injury from fishing hooks or lines. When a brood is spotted a cry of ‘All up!” is a sign for the boats to get into position before the swans are checked and ringed with identification numbers by The Queen’s Swan Warden, Professor Christopher Perrins, a professor of Ornithology from Oxford University’s Zoology department. Together with The Queen’s Swan Warden it is the The Queen’s Swan Marker who compiles a report of the week’s findings, which enables conservation methods to be installed to protect the swans from theft or danger. As well as this, the Swan Marker works closely with swan rescue organisations, local boating and fishing organisations, and talks to schools about swan welfare and how to respect and maintain the swan’s natural habitat. The Swan Upping is an important tradition that is particularly respected in Berkshire with the county being the location of Windsor Castle – the rowers stand to attention on their boats with their oars raised while saluting ‘Her Majesty The Queen, Seigneur of the Swans’ when they pass. “We’re grateful to work alongside such a huge part of the country’s heritage,” explains Chef Patron Alain Roux. “The swans are such beautiful creatures and it’s fantastic that this historical tradition continues to take place – tradition is something very important to us here at The Waterside Inn,” he continues. Supported by many schools and local communities the Swan Upping is an important part of river tradition. For more information about the Swan Upping please visit www.royal.gov.uk place – tradition is something very important to us here at The Waterside Inn, THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 55 Bray Enhancement Comittee and their 2010 awards Bray Brownies lend a hand The local school discovers nature in Bray B R AY I N BLOOM Well known for its Michelin-starred restaurants, Bray has a reputation as another leader as a regular winner of the Britain in Bloom competition. THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE SPOKE TO BRAY’S BRITAIN IN BLOOM REPRESENTATIVE MAGGIE HUGHES. 56 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE B ritain in Bloom is a strong area of expertise for the village of Bray, with the residents having won the Gold award for ‘Best Small Village’ over several years. A pretty village in the heart of Berkshire it is easy to see why the entry does so well in this competition at both regional and national levels. But it doesn’t just come with the village, the participants of the Bray Enhancement Committee work on a yearround basis. “We have a lot of support from the residents,” explains committee fundraiser Maggie Hughes, “and it helps that this is a naturally attractive village and everyone wants to keep it looking its best.” And looking its best it does, as Bray has been involved in the competition over 20 years, starting when local teacher Margaret Pierce and friend Stan Bowler became involved in the competition. “Originally we had a lot of support from the local council with the ‘The Best Kept Village’ competition, and then we started entering Britain in Bloom. Now much of our funding is raised from the local community,” continues Maggie. “We hold plant sales, have sponsorship – we’ve even produced aprons and calendars which are quite popular,” she adds. However a lot of the contributions to the success of the competition are nongardening orientated Maggie explains; “Bray isn’t a huge village but we often ask the local retailers if they will donate a voucher or a prize. The Waterside Inn are a great help as they provide the teas and coffees when the judges come round.” In turn the committee support other local charities, “we buy our plants from Braywick Heath Nurseries, a local garden centre which is staffed by people with special needs,” Maggie notes, “it’s a nice partnership between the two parties.” As well as fundraising, each member of the committee looks after a particular section, “Margaret is our school liaison,” Maggie says, “as a teacher it makes sense as she knows the schools and she’s always been involved in that area. We now have a lot of support from younger members of the community, especially Bray Guides, Bray Brownies and junior schools – it’s nice to see their enthusiasm and they really get into the spirit of it all!” Together with the children from the community the Bray Enhancement team do quite a lot of maintenance around the village from planting to litter picks. In judging season, which is usually in the month of July, the whole village really comes together to contribute for those all-important points. “We’re usually quite successful in the competition,” acknowledges Maggie, “but the residents of Bray put in a lot of hard work all-year round and not just in the summer months.” Supported by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) Britain in Bloom has a number of different categories including horticultural achievement, community involvement and most recently environmental responsibility. Today with sustainability such a key issue for the world the RHS is looking for examples of sustainability, such as wildlife-loving plants and homes for butterflies and birds. “We have a section in the churchyard which is our haven for wildlife,” Maggie notes, “but we are still working on this area as it takes a while for creatures to settle in.” This year the village is focusing on the support of nature and the possibility of having more of a flower colour theme of blues, lavenders and whites. Although Britain “We’re usually quite successful in the competition,” acknowledges Maggie, “but the residents of Bray put in a lot of hard work all-year round and not just in the summer months.” in Bloom is important for the village Maggie is aware that many people have their own preferences. “Our committee suggested that a theme throughout the village may be nice this year,” she explains, “but we are aware that this is entirely up to the residents – we don’t want to enforce it, people want to enjoy their gardens with the plants they like – it is their garden after all! With the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee next year, we have already decided on a patriotic red, white and blue theme!” When it comes to plant choices from the team Maggie explains that longevity is of the essence. “We ideally want long-flowering plants, ones that will flower from June right up to the frosts,” she says, “it’s timely and expensive to replant, although we do replant for the winter months – we really find it cheers people up when there are evergreen plants or winter hanging baskets.” With many keen gardeners in the country Britain in Bloom is a national celebration of gardening within the community. “It’s lovely to be involved,” Maggie enthuses, “I enjoy gardening and it’s giving something back which makes it even more enjoyable.” For more information about Britain in Bloom visit www.rhs.org.uk and for more information about the Bray Enhancement Committee visit www.brayparishvillages.com THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 57 WATERSIDE news The spirit garden The menu of ● Creation and maintenance ● Design ofce ● Excavation ● Brushwood clearance/pruning A celebration of 25 years Three Michelin stars ● Stone wall/irrigation Alain Roux celebrates 25 years of three ● Stone sculpture Michelin stars by offering locals ● Pool maintenance a meal set at 1985 prices. F ■ Headquarters : ■ Deposit : ■ Phones : Rue Sénateur Sigallas 83120 Le Plan de la Tour ZA Camp Ferrat Avenue de la Liberté 83120 Sainte-Maxime Gsm. + 33 06 09 58 38 86 Tel. + 33 04 94 43 05 89 Fax. + 33 04 94 49 47 79 Email : [email protected] Web site : http://www.topiarus-paysagiste.com SIREN : 442 361 259 - SIRET : 442 361 259 0017 - Code APE : 014B sebastien-garcia.com TOPIARUS or many, the idea of dining at a three Michelin-starred restaurant for a price charged a quarter of a century ago seems only but a dream. However in October 2010 this became reality for local residents of The Waterside Inn in Bray, who paid a mere £14.50 for the famous Menu Gastronomique, an exceptional bargain that offered guests a remarkable saving over the £56.00 it would normally cost at today’s prices. For two select weeks guests were treated to classic French cuisine from an award-winning menu – comprising of dishes such as Velouté de châtaignes au Champagne, Julienne de volaille et dés de céleri-rave (Chestnut and Champagne Veloute with Chicken Julienne and Diced Celeriac) and Tarte au chocolate et aux framboises, sorbet à la framboise (Chocolate and Raspberry Tart served with Raspberry Sorbet). Such elaborate dishes graced menus back in the 80s and the selection was also accompanied by vintage wines courtesy of The Waterside Inn’s suppliers ranging from 1999 Cuvée Louise Pommery Champagne to a 1986 Château d’Yquem. The offer stood to residents within a ten-mile radius only and was a mark of celebration in which Michel and Alain could show their gratitude towards their most loyal customers who have supported the restaurant from the beginning. The event was a major success in the area, so much so that those who managed to secure a place were considered extremely lucky. There were even rumours that some City types were claiming to be local in the hope of sampling such a remarkable offer. This resorted in the team requesting post codes to ensure that it was in fact ‘locals’ living within the specified ten-mile radius as opposed to the cheaters looking for a cheap meal of exceptional quality. The establishment, founded by Michel Roux, and run by Michel’s son Alain for the last eight years, is located in an idyllic spot on the banks of the River Thames and is recognised for its outstanding achievement as the only restaurant outside of France to have been awarded Michelin’s highest honour for 25 consecutive years. Achieving three-star recognition is no mean feat, but maintaining the standard as tastes change and chefs age is an exceptional achievement. M E N U G A S T RO N O M I QU E £14.50 If you wish to change any of the dishes on this menu, each course will be charged separately Velouté de châtaignes au Champagne, julienne de volaille et dés de céleri-rave Chestnut and Champagne velouté with chicken julienne and celeriac dice ou Quenelle de brochet à la lyonnaise Traditional pike quenelle with langoustine tails Filet de flétan braisé et relevé de gingembre, artichauts poivrade à la barigoule et sauce au tamarin Baked halibut fillet with a hint of ginger, baby artichokes cooked barigoule style and tamarind sauce ou Suprême de grouse en crépinette et cuisse farcie en beignet, cèpes de brodeauc poêlés et just parfumé aux baies de genièvre Grouse breast wrapped in a game farce, crispy leg with foie gras and sautéed ceps, juniper berries scented jus Tarte au chocolate et aux framboises, sorbet à la framboise Chocolate and raspberry tart served with raspberry sorbet or Bavarois parfumé aux dattes et miel, sorbet à la poire Date and honey flavoured bavarois dessert served with pear sorbet Café et mignardises Prices are inclusive of service and VAT First opened in 1972, The Waterside Inn was awarded its first Michelin star in 1974, with the launch of the UK guide, winning its second in 1977 and the third in 1985. Michel has always remained true to the fact that his accomplishment of three Michelin stars isn’t just about the standard of food, but the service also. Together with son Alain he believes their success is down to an ‘entire philosophy’ by which a restaurant is run and often pays tribute to General Manager Diego Masciaga, who runs front of house. Diego has been in charge of the service since 1988 and the combination of his personality and strive for perfection ensures an ambience of complete relaxation and satisfaction. THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 59 WATERSIDE WATERSIDE news news Alain Roux and Claude Bosi join forces at the London Restaurant Festival C elebrating the best of London’s restaurants The Waterside Inn’s Chef Patron Alain Roux took a trip out of Bray to support Michelin-starred chef Claude Bosi at the 2010 London Restaurant Festival. Working together at Claude Bosi’s restaurant Hibiscus, Alain complemented Claude’s unique menu with a menu of his own favourites – offering Hibiscus diners the opportunity to sample some of The Waterside Inn’s specialities in the heart of London. Alain’s menu, consisting of ‘Terrine of Pressed Foie Gras, Pan-fried Lobster Medallion and Pistachio Crème Brûlée’, offered an additional flavour to Claude Bosi’s already very popular menu of which Alain is a great fan. “It was such a memorable experience working with Claude,” says Alain, “this was the first time we have cooked together and it was the perfect opportunity to work with an extremely talented chef, discover his personality and style, and of course, work with a great team.” Claude, originally from Lyon in France, shares many of the same attitudes to cooking as Alain, “I love his approach to food,” Alain admits, “although it is French like our food at The Waterside Inn, his has a modern twist – yet always having respect for his ingredients, which is very important.” As well as working together with Claude and his team how did Alain feel about the event? “It was a great success,” Alain explains, “they have the same stove as we do at The Waterside Inn so I felt right at home!” Alain also felt like part of the Hibiscus family, “I really enjoyed working with them all, Claire Bosi, general manager and Claude’s wife was equally a pleasure to work with and together they are a seamless team running the kitchen and front of house – I am looking forward to my next visit!” For more information about Claude Bosi and Hibiscus visit www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk 60 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE A Mammoth Brunch O n the 29th August 2010 Michel Roux was blown away when he helped the team at the Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore prepare Sunday brunch for 750 of their regular clients. On his tour as global ambassador Michel visited the hotel together with former Waterside Inn sous chef Michael Nizzaro. When Michel met Martha A leading figure in the American culinary world, Martha Stewart is famed for her friendly nature and inspiring shows. Michel Roux appeared on The Martha Stewart Show in August 2010 to promote his bestselling book Sauces. “I love visiting America,” explains Michel, “Martha is a very good friend of mine and it’s easy to understand why her lifestyle show is so popular! TV in the US is quite different to that in Europe – you have to be very on the ball as the segments are quicker because they have so much to fit in one show, still Martha always makes me feel at home.” ‘The Martha Stewart Show’ is shown daily on the Hallmark Channel, for more information visit www.marthastewart.com A Lifetime of Achievement Chef patron Michel Roux has recently been given the award of ‘a lifetime’ from La Luna de Metrópoli, the leisure and cultural supplement of EL Mundo digital magazine – the largest daily paper in Spain. The supplement offers gastronomic awards to institutions and professionals that are leaders in the field. Michel was honoured to be awarded with this acknowledgment. “It was a fantastic experience,” explains Michel, “what a monumentous task to arrange brunch for so many people – it really was quite awe-inspiring.” Working alongside executive chef Arnaud Thulliez and his brigade, Michel and his assisting sous chefs worked on six of the dishes for the 75-metre banquet. , Arnaud Thulliez, From left to right: Fabio Ciervo, Michael Nizzero froid Gode Axel and Toh n Michel Roux, Bento For more information about the Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore visit www.ritzcarlton.com Chef Alain adopts a school W hen the charity Chefs Adopt a School offered the Alain Roux the opportunity to assist in local schools he was happy to help. The charity, founded by the Academy of Culinary Arts is endorsed by chefs such as Brian Turner CBE, Richard Shepherd CBE and Sara Jayne Stanes OBE. Chefs Adopt a School supports food education and practical cookery in schools all over the country. The Adopt a School programme sees acclaimed chefs work with their adopted school three times a year (once a term) to help educate students on the importance and enjoyment that comes from good food and cooking. As well as supporting the syllabus of ‘plant to plate’, food hygiene and practical food skills such as basic chopping techniques and combining different ingredients, the chefs involved work together with the schools to talk with the students about the food industry and why their love of food has become their chosen profession. September 2011 will see Alain Roux visit Manor Green School in Maidenhead to work with two classes – one of 11-12 year olds and the other 13-14 year olds. As well as working with students from Manor Green School, Alain has also joined students at Holyport Special School on a previous Adopt a School visits. For more information about Chefs Adopt a School visit www.academyofculinaryarts.org.uk/ chefs-adopt-a-school THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 61 WATERSIDE news Alain Roux says ‘cheese’ at Beaconsfield Cheese Market National Catering butcher of the year 2010 F lavoursome Stilton, fruity Wensleydale or a creamy Cheddar – for those who love cheese nothing is more appealing than a cheese market and on the 9th April 2011 Beaconsfield cheese-makers market attracted cheese lovers from all over Berkshire and Buckinghamshire. Chef patron Alain Roux opened the event that celebrates cheese from all over the world including cheese makers such as Cropwell Bishop Creamery, Thornby Moor Dairy, Green’s of Glastonbury and many more. Cheese company Premier Cheese, founded by cheese makers Amnon Paldi and Eric Charriaux, organised the event to celebrate British artisan cheese. Premier Cheese, which also owns specialist cheese shop La Cave à Fromage, offers a range of over 400 cheeses and supplies many Michelin-starred restaurants, including The Waterside Inn. As well as offering a wide range of delicious artisan cheeses, Eric Charriaux invited The Waterside Inn chef patron Alain Roux to open the event. “I was delighted to be invited to attend,” enthuses Alain, “I love cheese so I was very excited to be involved – it was great to see cheese lovers coming together to enjoy fantastic produce.” Eric Charriaux continues; “one of the meanings in French for ‘marche’ is where producers meet their clients – as an acclaimed chef in the local area we asked Alain to open the event and to share our mutual love of cheese with others.” For more information about Premier Cheese and the Beaconsfield cheese market visit www.cheese.biz AAA EXECUTIVE CARS EXECUTIVE AND CHAUFFER HIRE ‘One of the secrets of exceptional cooking is to use exceptional ingredients. We have found that the unrivalled quality of the beef we receive from Aubrey Allen helps us to maintain our reputation as one of the best restaurants in the UK.’ Alain Roux, The Waterside Inn, Bray. MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE... To enjoy the same fantastic meat as The Waterside Inn, delivered to your door, go to www.aubreyallen.co.uk/waterside For all your traditional cuts call 01926 311208 Tel: (01628) 624446 Fax: (01628) 622443 Email: [email protected] www.triple-ace.co.u k THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE 63 WATERSIDE news Veterans of pâtisserie Ghost Power in reserve, composure in any conditions S ummer 2011 saw Michel Roux join forces with 45 well-known master pastry chefs as he visited Pays Basque in France for the 30th anniversary of the Relais Dessert Association. It was here that the association delegates enjoyed three days of activities together with delegates attending from all over Europe with ages ranging from 60-80. The event was organised by close friends of ours Monique Mandion and husband André Mandion who are well respected veterans themselves in the pastry industry. Unfortunately André passed away just a few weeks before, however the event still went ahead and as usual was a terrific success thanks to all the hard work the pair put in. The piece Montée revealed at the gala evening was prepared by Lucien Gautier, Chef Pâtissier at Georges V in Paris, creating this cake especially for the evening held at Hôtel du Palais Biarritz. Lucien had visited especially for this occasion and worked together with Cédric Lejeune, Chef Pâtissier du Palais and all his team. A fantastic surprise, this was a superb present to all that attended. For more information about Relais Desserts International please visit www.relais-desserts.net 64 THE WATERSIDE INN MAGAZINE Ghost is engineered to be whisper-quiet, however much you exploit its new V12 engine. Effortless, yet rewarding driving is assured by the same advanced technology that creates the unique magic carpet-like ride. In every respect, Ghost embodies the power of simplicity. Event organiser Monique Mandion with Chef Pâtissier Lucien Gautier Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Sunningdale, London Road, Sunningdale SL5 0EX Tel: 01344 871200 www.rolls-roycemotorcars-sunningdale.co.uk © Copyright Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Limited 2011. The Rolls-Royce name and logo are registered trademarks.