Optical Illusions and Effects on Clothing Design

Transcription

International Journal of Science Culture and Sport (IntJSCS)
June 2015 : 3(2)
ISSN
: 2148-1148
Doi
: 10.14486/IJSCS272
Optical Illusions and Effects on Clothing Design1
Saliha AĞAÇ*, Menekşe SAKARYA**
*
Associate Prof., Gazi University, Ankara, TURKEY, Email: [email protected]
**
Niğde University, Niğde, TURKEY, Email: [email protected]
Abstract
“Visual perception” is in the first ranking between the types of perception. Gestalt Theory of
the major psychological theories are used in how visual perception realizes and making sense
of what is effective in this process.
In perception stage brain takes into account not only stimulus from eyes but also expectations
arising from previous experience and interpreted the stimulus which are not exist in the real
world as if they were there. Misperception interpretations that brain revealed are called as
“Perception Illusion” or “Optical Illusion” in psychology.
Optical illusion formats come into existence due to factors such as brightness, contrast,
motion, geometry and perspective, interpretation of three-dimensional images, cognitive
status and color. Optical illusions have impacts of different disciplines within the study area
on people. Among the most important types of known optical illusion are Oppel-Kundt,
Curvature-Hering, Helzholtz Sqaure, Hermann Grid, Muller-Lyler, Ebbinghaus and Ponzo
illusion etc. In fact, all the optical illusions are known to be used in numerous area with
various techniques and different product groups like architecture, fine arts, textiles and
fashion design from of old. In recent years, optical illusion types are frequently used
especially within the field of fashion design in the clothing model, in style, silhouette and
fabrics.
The aim of this study is to examine the clothing design applications where optical illusion is
used and works done in this subject. Some research of the design with the changing fashion of
clothes of different types of optical illusions is discussed with examples of their effects on
visual perception. In the study, optical illusory clothing models are scanned by visual analysis
from documents like film, video, picture, web pages. The findings were analyzed in terms of
the surface and design and effects of the optical illusion on clothing design has tried to put
forward.
Keywords: Optical illusion, optical illusion and clothing design, optical illusion and textile
surfaces
1
This article was presented in the 4th ISCS Conference in Ohrid, Macedionia, on 22-26 May, 2015.
Copyright©IntJSCS (www.iscsjournal.com) - 137
June 2015
Optik Yanılsama ve Giysi Tasarımına Etkileri
Özet
Algı çeşitleri arasında ilk sırada “görsel algılama” yer almaktadır. Görsel algının nasıl
gerçekleştiği, bu süreçte nelerin etkili olduğunu anlamlandırmada en önemli psikoloji
kuramlarından Gestalt Algı Kuramı kullanılmaktadır.
Algı aşamasında beyin salt gözden gelen uyarımları değil, önceki deneyimlerden doğan
beklentileri de hesaba katarak fiziki dünyada var olmayan uyaranları sanki oradalarmış gibi
yorumlayabilir. Beynin ortaya çıkardığı yanlış algılama yorumlarına psikolojide "Algı
Yanılması" veya " Optik Yanılsama" denilmektedir.
Optik yanılsama biçimlerinin parlaklık, kontrast, hareket, geometri ve bakış açısı, üç boyutlu
görüntüleri yorumlama, bilişsel durumlar ve renk gibi kimi etkenlere bağlı olarak var olduğu
söylenebilir. Optik yanılsamalar insanlar üzerinde farklı disiplinlerin çalışma alanına giren
etkilere sahiptir. Bilinen en önemli optik yanılsama türleri arasında Oppel – Kundt, Zöllner,
Bükülme - Hering, Helmoltz Kare, Hermann Grid, Muller-Lyler, Ebbinghaus ve Ponzo
yanılsaması vb. sıralanabilir. Aslında tüm optik yanılsamalar eskiden beri mimarlık, plastik
sanatlar, tekstil ve moda tasarımı gibi pek çok alanda çeşitli teknikleri ve farklı ürün grupları
ile kullanıldığı bilinmektedir. Son yıllarda özellikle moda tasarım alanı içinde yer alan giysi
modellerinde, stil, siluet ve kumaşlarda optik yanılsama türlerinin sıklıkla kullanıldığı
görülmektedir.
Bu çalışmanın amacı, optik yanılsamanın kullanıldığı giysi tasarım uygulamalarını ve bu
konuda yapılan çalışmaları irdelemektir. Yapılan bazı araştırmaların değişen moda anlayışları
ile farklı optik yanılsama türlerinin giysi tasarımlarına görsel algılamadaki etkileri örnekleri
ile sunularak değerlendirilmiştir. Araştırmada optik yanılsamalı giysi modelleri film, video,
fotoğraf, web sayfaları gibi dokümanlardan görsel analiz yöntemi ile taranmıştır. Elde edilen
bulgular yüzey ve tasarım açılarından analiz edilmiş ve optik yanılsamanın giysi
tasarımındaki etkileri ortaya konmaya çalışılmıştır.
Anahtar Kelimeler:
ve tekstil yüzeyleri
Optik yanılsama, Optik yanılsama ve giysi tasarımı, Optik yanılsama
Ağaç & Sakarya, Optical Illusions and Effects on Clothing Design
3(2):137-157
Introduction
An individual realizes the information about life going on around him or her through
sensation and perception. Sensation is considered as the first stage of perception; however,
perception is considered as a complex process occurring through receiving, interpreting,
choosing and regulating the sensory information. Perception is a concept that is the subject of
fields such as psychology, physiology, and art.
According to the main characteristics of perception suggested by Aydınlı (1992): a)
‘’perception varies from person to person’’; b) ‘’in perception, movement is essential’’; and c)
‘’in perception, people collect information from their environments in accordance with their
aims and requirements’’ (Çağlayan, Korkmaz, and Öktem, 2014).
The sense of sight, which forms a person’s impressions about the external environment in
which he or she lives, is an important dimension for a person to perceive and make sense of
the environment, and therefore to establish a relationship with the environment (İnceoğlu,
2010). Light is the main source of vision. The process of vision occurs as a result of some
physiological events that occur regarding us simultaneously with the light source. The human
eye has the capability to see under the conditions with strong or weak light sources, and to
adapt itself to the situation (Bayav, 2008). The process of visual perception begins as the
individual starts to implement the process of vision through choosing the images of a wide
range of colors, shapes, and objects around his or her environment (İnceoğlu, 2010).
Even though there are differences perceived depending on the distance from objects,
illumination, perspective, and so on, the color, shape, and brightness or darkness levels often
appear not to differ. The final decision about the color of fabric is never made under artificial
light; it is checked from a distant point whether the picture was hung on the wall properly
(Gombrich, 1992: 65).
In order to examine the visual perception, support is provided by Psychology. In this regard,
the Gestalt Theory, which focuses on how the visual perception occurs, what factors are
effective in this process, and how those factors affect the process internally and externally,
should be tackled (Ağaç and Sakarya, 2015). According to the Gestalt Theory, the
complementary principles in organizing the perception are as follows: Figure & Ground
Relation, Proximity Principle, Similarity Principle, Closure Principle, Continuation Principle,
Simplicity Principle, and Pragnanz.
Although each new approach in the field of design is addressed as a new trend or style, the
principles that they make use of are basically the same. At this point, the results obtained by
the Gestalt theorists are the main factors that determine the design principles. The results that
the Gestalt theorists, who had investigated how a person sees and transforms the visual
information into a meaningful whole, obtained in this field are one of the basic factors that
determine the design principles (Çağlayan, et al., 2014).
As the eye, brain, object, and environment are considered as a whole when the visual
perception is discussed, perceptual illusion is another important subject that is to be addressed
herein. The term ’illusion’ is referred to as the phenomenon where a fact is interpreted
differently, as the disruption or deviation of perception (Avcı Tuğal, 2012: 27).
Many people think that the objects they perceive visually are the same things they see with
their eyes. Comparing with a horizontal line with the same length, a vertical line, actually,
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leaves an impression as if it was longer than the horizontal line (Gombrich, 1992: 298).
However, the brain does not merely account for the stimulations coming from the eye, but
also can interpret the stimuli that actually do not exist in the world physically as if they did,
by accounting for the expectations resulting from earlier experiences (Sarnıç, 2011).
Occasionally, the blind spot in human eye may cause the brain to gather the signals coming
from the optic nerves in a wrong way. Therefore, while the eye and the brain are trying to see
the reality, they may also cause illusions. This causes the object being seen to be interpreted
inaccurately. The inaccurate perceptual interpretations are so abundant that these are called in
psychology as ‘’the Perceptual Illusion’’ or ‘’the Optical Illusion.’’
Perceptual illusions suggest that the order of perception tends to make mistakes, and the
outcome of perception is not perfect. Actually, perceptual illusion is one of the situations in
which the interactions between the physical reality and the psychological experience are
optimally identified (Eryayar, 2011).
Although the facts known regarding the optical illusion have not been completely clarified
scientifically, there has been an agreement that both physiological and psychological
processes are effective in these illusions (Buğdaycı, 2008).
The physical factors affecting the illusion are the relationships between the size and weight of
the object. Our experiences showed that these two characteristics coexist (Özer, 2011).
Optical illusions have effects on people that are the study field of different disciplines. These
effects have been used as an artistic value since the first stages of the visual arts.
Because there are not many theoretical explanations regarding the subject, it is not easy to
classify the illusion types. However, it could be suggested that there are some types of optical
illusions such as brightness and contrast, motion, geometry and perspective, interpretation of
3D images, cognitive conditions, and color (Buğdaycı, 2008).
This study was based on the
sequence provided by Bach and Poloschek in 2006 concerning the optical illusion types.
These types include Geometry or Perspective (Angle), Brightness and Contrast,
Cognitive/Gestalt Effects, Color, Motion, and the Optical Illusions based on the Interpretation
of 3D Images.
1. Geometry and Angle Illusions
Oppel-Kundt Illusions
The Oppel-Kundt Illusion is one of the earliest visual illusions known. In this illusion, the
segment B was found by dividing two vertical lines called ‘A’ and ’C’ into two equal spaces.
Then, the space between the lines A and B was subdivided into vertical lines with equal
intervals between; the space between the lines B and C with equal length was left empty.
Herein, the interval between A and B is perceived as wider than the interval between B and C
(Fig. 1.a) (Mikellidou & Thompson, 2014: 1).
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Direction Illusion (Zöllner Illusion)
This illusion was discovered by the German astrophysicist Johann Karl Friedrich Zöllner in
1860. The long lines shown in Figure 1.b are perceived as if they were going to intersect each
other, suggesting that this is a perceptual illusion related to the angles of the lines intercepting
the parallel lines (Sarnıç, 2011). This illusion is mostly caused by both the angle of short lines
intersecting each other, and the color of figure and ground.
Helmholtz Square Illusion
In 1867, the German psychologist and physicist Hermann von Helmholtz discovered that the
square consisting of horizontal lines was perceived as longer than the square consisting of
vertical lines (Fig. 1.c) (Swami, 2012).
Bending / Hering Illusion
This illusion, discovered by the German physiologist Ewald Hering in 1861, includes vertical
red lines constituting two parallel line segments (Fig. 1.d). However, these lines look bent
outwards due to the inaccurate depth perception and perspective caused by the lines with
angles on the background. Therefore, the illusion is also called as ’’the Bending Illusion.’’
(Sarnıç, 2011).
Müller-Lyer Illusion
The Müller-Lyer Illusion is one of the most well-known illusions. The illusion was discovered
by the German psychologist Franz Carl Müller-Lyer in 1889. Two lines of the same length are
perceived to be of different lengths due to the linear patterns with the fins of arrow at the
beginning and end of the lines (Fig. 1.e) (Avcı Tuğal, 2012: 121).
Ponzo Illusion
In 1913, the psychologist Mario Ponzo suggested that the human brain interprets the
magnitude of objects according to the background. In Ponzo illusion, the depth cues such as
lines, perspective, etc. cause the perception to develop in this way
(www.biltek.tubitak.gov.tr/gelisim/ psikoloji/algilab.htm). The objects shown in Fig. 1.f are
actually of the same length, but the perspective provided on the background causes our brains
to perceive them differently.
Café Wall Illusion
In this illusion, discovered by Dr. Richard Gregory in 1979, the horizontal black and white
parallel straight dividing lines (bricks) appear to be sloped (Fig. 1.h)
(http://twistedsifter.com/2014/09/the-cafe-wall-illusion/).
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Ebbinghaus Illusion (also known as ’the Titchener Circles’)
This illusion was discovered by the German psychologist Hermann Ebbinghaus in 1890. In
this illusion, related to the proportional perception, of two circles of identical size, the orange
circle on the right appears bigger than the other one. This is caused by the proportion of the
size of the outer circles to the central circle (Fig.1.i) (http://www.optical-illusionpictures.com/famous.html)
2. Brightness & Contrast Illusion
Hermann Grid Illusion
This illusion was accidentally discovered by Ludimar Hermann in 1870. The grey ghost
marks appearing on the intersection point of the segments drawn on a white grid located on a
black background disappear when one looks at the direct intersection point of them (Avcı
Tuğal, 2012:124).
Simultaneous Contrast Color Illusion
This illusion, also known as the Gelb Illusion, is the main source of the perceptual constancy
illusion. Color and brightness constancy is responsible for the fact that a familiar object will
appear the same color regardless of the amount of light or the color of light reflecting from it.
In Fig. 1.j, there is a color transition from dark grey to light grey on the background. Even
though the central horizontal line appears to show a color transition from light grey to dark
grey, it has actually one color.
The Checker-Shadow Illusion, shown in Figure 1.k, was discovered by Edward H. Adelson.
In this illusion, squares A and B are actually the same color; as the cylindrical object casts a
shadow upon the surface, when the squares A and B are located between two vertical lines
with same color, it is understood that these two squares are actually the same color
(http://www.biltek.tubitak.gov.tr/gelisim/psikoloji/algilab.htm#ucboyutlualgi).
3. Cognitive Gestalt Illusion
Kanizsa Triangle
This illusion was discovered by the Italian psychologist Gaetano Kanizsa in 1955. In Fig. 1.1,
although it appears like there is a white equilateral triangle, there is actually no triangle drawn
in that image.
4. Color Illusions (Hue Difference)
Bezold Effect
This effect, named after a German professor of meteorology, Wilhelm von Bezold, is based
on the fact that colors appear differently depending on the color of setting (environment). The
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red color on a white background appears lighter, and the red color on a black background
appears darker. In Fig. 1.m, as the background color and brightness of the artist Henri
Matisse’s (1869-1954) painting ‘Nu Blue II’ change, the figure becomes clearer.
5. Illusions Based on 3D Interpretations
Necker Cube
‘The Necker Cube’ was first published by Swiss ‘Louis Albert Necker’ (1832). This illusion
is based on the illusion that the human eye may sometimes see the 2D drawings as 3D objects.
By adding a third dimension to each edges of the figure of a two-dimensional cube drawn
with an isometric perspective, and by drawing them through giving them strength and
thickness, this impossible cube is produced (Fig. 1.n).
6. Motion & Time Illusions
Motion Illusion
Motion illusions, one of the most entertaining optical illusions, are based on the illusion that
the static images appear to be in motion, based on the use of color contrasts interacting with
each other, and the use of figures (Fig. 1.o).
b.Zöllner Illusions
a. Oppel-Kundt Illusion
d. Hering Illusions
f. Ponzo Illusions
c. Helmoltz Square Illusions
e. Müller-Lyer Illusions
g. Fraser’s Spiral İllusion
h.Cafe Wall Illusion
i. Ebbinghaus Illusion
k. Checker-Shadow Illusion
j. Contrast Color Illusion
m.Bezold Effect Illusions
o. Ellipse Illusion
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l. Kanizsa Triangle Illusion
n. Necker Cube Illusions
-
Rotating Snakes
a. http://viperlib.york.ac.uk/categories/137-size-illusions
b. (Fermüller, C. ve Malm H. 2004.Vision Research 44 s. 727–749)
http://imgkid.com/zollner-illusion.shtml
c. http://www.nmsba.com/neuromarketing-blog/3144477
d.http://www.michaelbach.de/ot/lum_herGrid/index.html,(Chen ve Peng, 2013)
e. http://www.optical-illusion-pictures.com/distort.html,(Chen ve Peng, 2013)
f .http://www.biltek.tubitak.gov.tr/gelisim/psikoloji/algilab.htm#ponzoyansilma,
http://www.moillusions.com/ponzo-illusion-collection/
h. ttp://twistedsifter.com/2014/09/the-cafe-wall-illusion/
i. http://www.michaelbach.de/ot/cog-Ebbinghaus/
j. http://tr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optik_ill%C3%BCzyon
k.http://www.biltek.tubitak.gov.tr/gelisim/psikoloji/algilab.htm#ucboyutlualgi
l. http://www.optical-illusion-pictures.com/famous.html
3(2):137-157
m. Dr. John Andraos, http://www.careerchem.com/NAMED/Optical-Illusions.pdf
http://www.michaelbach.de/ot/col-isoluNuBleu/index.html
n. http://tr.vectorhq.com/vector/necker-cube-and-impossible-cube-31869
http://imgarcade.com/1/cube-optical-illusion/
o.(Avcı Tuğal, 2012:126)
Figure 1. Optical Illusion Samples
Visual perceptual illusions, which are an extensive and interdisciplinary phenomenon,
affected various disciplines in the light of the aforementioned scientific studies. As a result of
this effect, a wide range of optical illusions were used in many various disciplines, such as
architecture, engineering, etc., and by many artists, craftsmen, and designers. Moreover, the
illusion affected various art movements, including the optical and kinetic art movements
Recently, it has been observed that the optical illusion types are frequently used on clothing
models, styles, silhouettes, and fabrics found in the field of fashion design. The purpose of
this study is to discuss the studies conducted concerning the clothing design practices in
which the optical illusions are used. The effects of the fashion perception of some studies and
various optical illusion types on clothing design in terms of the visual perception are
discussed with examples.
Methodology
In this study, a ‘visual analysis method’ was used to investigate the clothing models with
optical illusions. The theories in relation with the optical illusion and the effects of the optical
art movements on clothing design were scanned through this method. Analyzing the findings
in terms of both the surface and the model cuts, the effects of the optical illusion on the
fashion sector were tried to be revealed
The visual analysis method includes investigating the documents such as films, videos,
photographs, magazines, books and web pages visually. At the first stage, the theoretical data
directing the study were collected. At the second stage, photographs, images, drawings were
classified. At the third stage, the analysis forms were prepared and evaluated in terms of the
specified criteria (Çileroğlu ve Kıvılcımlar, 2014; Ağaç ve Sakarya, 2015). In the study, by
examining the clothing designs found in visual catalogs of designers and brands with optical
illusions on their websites, magazines, and newspapers through the visual analysis, the
clothing styles with optical illusions were analyzed in terms of the characteristics of the
surface, model, pattern and design. In these analyses, dresses, coats, overalls and swimsuits
June 2015
were the most frequently observed clothing models with optical illusions for women; whereas,
only coat was found to be the model with optical illusions for men.
Findings
The phenomenon ‘optical illusion,’ which has a special place in the field of visual arts, and
the attractiveness of the elements constituting it made people investigate this subject and
conduct tests and practices in various disciplines (Sarnıç, 2011). Optical illusion and the
Optical Art, emerged in the ‘60s by being affected by the optical illusion, manifested
themselves mostly in the fields of fashion and textile. Many designers have designed clothes
with visual optical motions by making use of the works of the optical artists and by using
more black and white (Karaçalı, 2008).
As a fashion designer must have a good designing perception, it is also one of the most
important steps for a designer to make the clients perceive the product accurately. In addition
to the efforts of designer towards making his or her product be perceived accurately, the
behaviors, knowledge of a client, and the way he or she perceives that product are also
important. At this stage, the product design plays an important role in marketing, because the
visual difference brought with the design affects the perception of a client, and the production
style affects the behaviors of a client (Mozota, 2005).
With the help of the developing technologies in the fashion sector, and the changing fashion
perception, diversity emerged in both the area of usage of products and the reasons for
preferring the optical illusions. To use the stripes on clothes in order to create a perfect body
impression plays a key role in creating the optical illusion, and helps the creation regarding
the colors and fibers (Sarnıç, 2011).
Many designers in fashion world use the colors and styles on their designs by providing
optical illusions. According to the criteria determined after a visual analysis scanning in
accordance with the purpose of this study, three visual boards with pictures were established.
One of these boards included designs with different optical illusion styles, and was called
‘’Clothing Designs with Optical Illusions.’’ The second board was called ‘’Stripes Clothing
Designs with Optical Illusions,’’ due to the fact that stripes were used frequently in optical
illusion samples. The third board was called ‘’Clothing Designs with Optical Illusions
Showing the Body Slimmer,’’ due to the fact that it included the models providing a slimmer
look by using color contrasts and various illusions.
a. Elsa Schiaparelli- 1937
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b. Life Magazine -1965 c. Roberto Capucci-1965 d. Kansai Yamamoto - 1973
e. Ichiro Suzuki - 2013 - World 3796 Necker Coat Pattern-2015
g. Gareth Pugh -2007
f. Herman Grid Illusion - Milly Adrianne -..
h. Victor Vasarely “Boo”- Masahiro Nakagawa and Rica-1995
i. Chanel -2014
j. Viktor & Rolf-2009 Paris Fashion Week
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k. Roman: Blue – Black Dress – 2015
a. http://viperlib.york.ac.uk/categories/137-size-illusions
b. (Fermüller, C. ve Malm H. 2004.Vision Research 44 s. 727–749)
http://imgkid.com/zollner-illusion.shtml
c. http://www.nmsba.com/neuromarketing-blog/3144477
d..http://www.michaelbach.de/ot/lum_herGrid/index.html,(Chen ve Peng, 2013)
e. http://www.optical-illusion-pictures.com/distort.html,(Chen ve Peng, 2013)
f. http://www.biltek.tubitak.gov.tr/gelisim/psikoloji/algilab.htm#ponzoyansilma,
http://www.moillusions.com/ponzo-illusion-collection/
h.http://twistedsifter.com/2014/09/the-cafe-wall-illusion/
i. http://www.michaelbach.de/ot/cog-Ebbinghaus/
j. http://tr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optik_ill%C3%BCzyon
k.http://www.biltek.tubitak.gov.tr/gelisim/psikoloji/algilab.htm#ucboyutlualgi
l. http://www.optical-illusion-pictures.com/famous.html
m. Dr. John Andraos, http://www.careerchem.com/NAMED/Optical-Illusions.pdf
http://www.michaelbach.de/ot/col-isoluNuBleu/index.html
n. http://tr.vectorhq.com/vector/necker-cube-and-impossible-cube-31869
http://imgarcade.com/1/cube-optical-illusion/
o. (Avcı Tuğal, 2012)
Visual Board 1 - Clothing Designs with Optical Illusions
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The findings obtained considering the board of Clothing Designs with Optical Illusions shown
in Visual Board 1 can be identified as follows:
The design of an artificial blue silk coat with the depiction of two faces and a vase, produced
with the designing cooperation of Elsa Schiaparalle with the famous artist Jean Cocteau in
1937, is shown in Visual Board 1.a. The optical illusion, also known as ’the Rubin vase,’
could be considered as the first example adapted into the cloth in terms of the relationship
between Figure and Ground among the principles of Gestalt’s Perception Theory.
Larry Aldrich, the art collector, fashion designer and the founder of Young Elegante, is one of
the designers who uses theme ‘Op Art’ most successfully. He got the attention of people with
his designs and cloths designed being inspired by the works of Riley, Stanczak, Vasarely, and
Anuszkiewicz (Özmen, 2010). In Visual Board 1.b, the perception of depth and asymmetry in
eyes emerges with the optical effect given to the sleeveless dress with crew neckline from the
work of the Optical Art of Bridget Riley, published in the magazine Life in 1965.
It is understood that it was inspired by the work ’Vega’ of Victor Vasarely (1957), an optical
artist, on the surface of the dress design belonging to Roberto Capucci (1965), shown in
Visual Board 1.c. It appears that the football-like shapes are sequenced side by side in an
order with the changes applied in the sizes of black and white squares.
The trousers part of the bodysuit designed by Kansai Yamamoto (1973) was designed in the
form of a half circle (Visual Board 1.d). The curved lines starting from the knee level
encircles the whole cloth in a spiral way, and the emerging pattern continues on the front and
in the middle of the cloth symmetrically. Moreover, this pattern reminds of the Hering
Illusion. Stripes are in accordance with the ‘constancy principle’ of the Gestalt Theory.
Visual Board 1.e depicts the three-dimensional square and rectangle blocks belonging to
Ichiro Suzuki (2013), designed for the brand ’World.’ In clothes designed as a coat for women
and men in different models and cuts, the surfaces created with the effects of various colors
with light and dark tones preferred by designers manifested a strong and attractive optical
effect (Ağaç and Sakarya, 2015).
Models with black and white squares became very popular in the winter and summer of 2015.
During the visual analysis conducted, it was seen that those printed surfaces are generally
called as ‘the Grid Square Print.’ The optical effect provided by the ghost marks on which the
grey spots emerge at the intersection points of the segments of grids belonging to the
Hermann Grid Illusion, depicted in Visual Board 1.f, is apparent on the surface of the dress
applied.
Gareth Pugh is a young designer who is famous for his firm, eccentric, and modernist style,
and who shows up on stages with his impressive works. The surface of ‘the Lighted Coat’ by
Pugh (2007), depicted in Visual Board 1.g, has diagonal lines and squares. The brightness and
motion effects were provided through a special fabric used in the coat reminding of a Samurai
costume, which was included in the collection named ’Fashion in Motion.’
On the surface of the coat and trousers designed by Masahiro Nakagawa and Rica (1995), it
was inspired by one of the works of Victor Vasarely, called ’Boo,’ and by similar various
works (Visual Board 1.h). In this design, the depth effect was provided with thin white stripes
on a black background, and on some parts, the circles on the cloth were made to appear in 3D
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by changing the angle of the stripes. It can be suggested that the body part of the coat appears
as three-dimensional circles, and the arms part of the coat leaves an impression of depth on
the viewer.
The futuristic dress with optical illusion designed to show the waist slim by Chanel for the
2014-2015 Paris Fashion Week is depicted in Visual Board 2.i. Around the waist part of the
dress, the contrast was provided with the color black, appearing like a blouse on the upper
side and like a skirt on the below side. A slimmer look was provided using the fabric of Lycra
surrounding the waist. That the upper part of dress with white color was cut short, widening
towards the waist part, and that the skirt part was low and wide around the waist create a
perception of space in viewer. In Visual Board 1.j, the upper part of the dress designed by
Viktor and Rolf (2009) for the Paris Fashion Week is strapless, and the below part includes a
riding skirt. An illusion was emerged with the space provided around the hip part. The optical
effect depicted in Visual Board 2.i and j serves as a model for the principle of organization,
just as in Kanizsa Triangle, one of the optical illusion examples, through filling the gaps
found in the stimuli, and for the principle of closure of the Gestalt Theory, and for a trend of
object perception as a whole, instead of as disconnected pieces from each other.
The dress in Visual Board 1.k, which created arguments and conflicts about the actual color of
a dress (What color is this dress?) on social media around the world, belongs to the British
brand ‘Roman.’ Even though the actual color of the dress was blue and black, many people
claimed that the color of the dress was golden yellow and ice blue. Even in a poll started on a
website about the color of the dress, 60% of the participants reported that they saw the color
white where the actual color is blue. The reason of this ‘color conflict’ is the light illusion.
According to scientists, the human brain identifies the color of objects depending on the lights
reflected by the objects around it. Therefore, the color of an object is perceived depending on
the colors of the objects around that object. Due to the light utilized on the background of the
dress picture, some people cannot perceive the blue color, and instead, they see it as either
white or ice blue close to white (http://www.haberler.com/dunyayi-ikiye-bolen-kiyafet7015588-haberi/). This situation is defined by the Checker-Shadow Illusion, one of the
illusions of brightness and contrast. The grey squares with identical color tones are perceived
as having different color tones due to the shadow of the cylinder (Fig. 1.k).
a. Alviani -1964
b.Vertical Stripes Dress
c. Dorothy Perkins .. d. Marc Jacobs -2013
e. Burda-2015 -Ebay.Com-2015
h. Topshop-2013
f. Jean Paul Gaultier-
i.Hering Illusion - Zuhair Murad – 2012
3(2):137-157
g. Bridget Riley, 1964/Lisa Perry-2013
j. Blanka Matragi-2012
a. (Özmen, 2010)
b. http://www.parisciel.com/blog/en/style-tips-tall-women/#.VXnNlPntmko
c. d..http://shainizam.tumblr.com/post/68044562919/trend-alert-striped-dresses
e. http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/64345
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Womens-Celeb-Monochrome-Black-White-Stripedf. http://www.lyst.com/clothing/jean-paul-gaultier-optical-tulle-onepiece-swimsuit-nude/
g. http://nymag.com/thecut/fashion/shows/2013/fall/new-york/rtw/lisa-perry.html
h. http://jewelry-junkies.myshopify.com/products/optical-illusion-black-white-body-dress
i. http://fashionfetishism.com/2012/03/08/zuhair-murad-collection-2012/
j. http://bestdress.com.ua/main/hc/3510-blanka-matragi-2012.html
Visual Board 2 – Stripes Clothing Designs with Optical Illusions
June 2015
The single-dimension symbol (length) that the eye can see is called a ‘line.’ In terms of
geometric characteristics, lines are divided into three groups: straight lines, curved lines, and
broken lines. As the optical illusion is related to the visual perception, it is also related to the
magnitude and geometric characteristics of an object. In this respect, in the studies they
conducted, scientists examined the various effects of lines on visual perception. In Visual
Board 3, it can be seen that the fabrics with vertical, horizontal and diagonal lines were used
with various cuttings on the clothing models of various designers and brands. It is known
that stripes, depending on their varying densities used on clothes (sizes, intervals, tones,
directions), exert some sensory effects on people. Among these senses, the perception that
the vertical lines are longer and thinner, and the horizontal lines are shorter and thicker takes
the first place (Visual Board 3.b). This perception common in recent studies conflicts with
Helmholtz’s (1967) Square Illusion (Fig. 1.c). The Square Illusion reports that the horizontal
lines serve as a longer and thinner appearance. In the tests conducted concerning this subject
by various researchers (Thompson, 2008; Thompson and Mikellidou, 2009-2011), this
illusion, when applied to the clothes for women as two-dimensional shapes, was shown to be
confirmed (Swami, 2012). On the other hand, lines create different optical illusions in the
eye, depending on the shapes and figures on clothing design. For example, a horizontal line
on the hip level of a dress may cause the body look shorter.
The optical artist Alviani’s attention towards the applied arts includes furniture, interior
decoration, and typography. Many fashion designers, such as Andre Courreges, Geoffrey
Beene, James Galanos, Merrimeko, and Rudi Gernreich, have benefited from the optical
illusions of Alviani in their works. The positive-negative dress with horizontal lines
appearing as a sack dress, designed by Alviani (1964), has brightness on the waist level and
a gradient transition on the edges of skirt and neck (Visual Board 2.a).
The dress with horizontal lines produced by the brand ‘Dorothy Perkins,’ depicted in Visual
Board 2.c, has a broken line effect on the cups on the sides. On his maxi dress, depicted in
Visual Board 2.d, Marc Jacobs (2013) created various cups and cuts with optical effects
through the motion of contrast thick black and white lines in different directions.
Considering the dresses designed with linear fabrics, depicted in Visual Board 2.f, the
designers created the hourglass shape by using the contrast lines with different thicknesses
vertically, horizontally and diagonally with special effects. The models with hourglass shape
could make the body look fitter with contrast colors.
On the grenadine one-piece swimsuit designed by Jean Paul Gaultier, the horizontal lines
with contrast colors were designed according to the body form. The lines continue through
the line from waist to chest in thin shape, then thicken on the chest, and again become thin
around the shoulders. The horizontal thin lines going downwards in triangle shape to the
level of hip then rotate from this triangle level to the edge of the skirt vertically, and thicken.
The rotation of lines were so well designed that the skirt of swimsuit is perceived as shorts
(Visual Board 3.g).
The maxi dress design by Lisa Perry (2013) bears a resemblance to the print design of
Brigitte Bauer (1966) on swimsuit. Lisa Perry was inspired by the black and white lines
becoming narrow towards a chosen point, and by the work ’Intake’ of Bridget Riley (1964),
and this design provides a perception of depth. Given the ’Constancy Principle’ of the
Gestalt Theory, the curved black and white lines are perceived as if they would continue.
In Visual Board 2.h, the direction of the lines used on the printed white bodycon midi dress
3(2):137-157
put up for sale by the American firm ‘Topshop’ is longitudinal and diagonal. An optical
effect was provided through the diamond figure created with lines on the foreground, and
the perception of a different linear layer coming through it.
The dress designed by Zuhair Murad in 2012 with black stripes on chiffon was motioned
with angled, horizontal, vertical and diagonal linear effects (Visual Board 2.i). The lines
formed in accordance with the body form (as in the example of Herring Illusion) are spread
from a single center, and they create a depth effect. These centers include the side stitches on
the waist, hip line, and knee, and make the body outlines more apparent and provide an
optical illusion.
As seen in Visual Board 2.j, the black and white lines on dresses designed by Blanka
Matragi (2012) were used in different thicknesses. The upper strapless of dress extends to
the upper hip line. There are contrast squares on the strapless chest part. The skirt part
includes thick black and white lines; when the whole circle opens up, the contrast on the
lines becomes apparent.
a. Alexander McQueen- 2012
d Optic Dress…
e. Miusol Brand
b . Herve Leger…
c. Herve Leger - 2013
f. Ebay.com g. . Stella McCartney-2012 h. Nikole Bakti Brand
i.Jason Wu…
j. Panel dress
k. aliexpress.com
June 2015
l.Herve Leger -
a. http://www.opticalillusioncollection.com/2012/03/optical-illusion-dress-to-slim-down.html
b. http://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/model-walks-the-runway-at-the-herve-leger-spring-2009-newsphoto/82703544
c. http://www.lwcloset.com/?p=39411
d. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-2416727/Olivia-Wilde-mesmorises-picks-award-mind-spinningoptical-illusion-dress.html
e. http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/womens-optical-illusion-dress
f. http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/womens-optical-illusion-dress
g. http://www.capitalfm.co.ke/lifestyle/2012/10/10/hot-trend-alert-the-optical-illusion-dress/
h. http://onedio.com/haber/ince-gosteren-elbiseler-44938
j. http://modumoda.com/2012/11/mucize-elbiseler-giy-ve-en-az-bir-beden-zayifla.html#.VTP_8iHtmko
k. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Womens-Optical-Illusion-Colorblock-Cap-Sleeve-Bodycon-Party-PencilDress-Bodycon-Business-OL-Dress
l. http://www.herveleger.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-HerveLeger-Site/tr_TR/SearchShow?q=bandage%20dress&start=39&sz=39
Visual Board 3 – Clothing Designs with Optical Illusions That Show the Body Slim
On the board consisting of the designs of dress with optical illusions that show the body slim,
there are the following findings:
The surface designs in various textures, silhouettes and cloth forms that Alexander McQueen
uses in his collections are fascinating and impressive. In Visual Board 3.a, on the dress
designed by McQueen, the body form was made to look slimmer through the hourglass
appearance by using the contrast of black and white. The optical illusion effect of a pencilformed dress was created through extending the black horizontal lines starting from the
armhole line, becoming dense around the waist, and diminishing gradually towards the skirt
edge onto a white background gradually (Ağaç and Sakarya, 2015).
As seen in Visual Board 3.b, on the dress designed by the French brand ‘Herve Leger,’ the
collar is in boat neck form (princess), and it is sleeveless. The upper body background is
black, and on sides, there are thin triangle pointed edges. Whereas, on the narrow straight skirt
3(2):137-157
cut from the waist, the background on the upper body is white, and on sides, there are black
triangles. The dress could be assessed in terms of ’Figure & Ground Relation’ of the Gestalt
principles. Because the background is black, the upper part of dress appears to be one size
slimmer; however, this causes the skirt to be perceived as one size bigger than the actual size.
The coral mini dress designed by Herve Leger (2013) is sleeveless and has boat neck. As the
vertical lines created with equal intervals on body thicken around the waist, the spaces
narrow. This situation provides an optical illusion effect by making the waist look slimmer
(Visual Board 3.c).
In Toronto International Film Festival (2014), the size of the dress with blue optical illusion,
sleeveless and with crew neck, worn by Olivia Wilde (Visual Board 3.d), is optically blockprinted up to the hip line. There are hourglass forms around the waist part of the dress, and
there are triangle black and white cups up to the line of armpits and hip line. Thanks to the
hourglass appearance provided, and to the black and white cups, the waist appears to be
slimmer.
The dress designed by the British brand ‘Miusol’ has a black background, and there are white
prints with strapless appearance on the front body. As a result, a strapless dress appearance
was emerged. Two stripes with the appearance of two-cup lines starting under the chest
horizontally, in the vertical form of the right and left sides on the front in the middle on the
chest, were united together at the edge of skirt. Herein, the model looks slimmer, because the
eye moves within a limited area (Visual Board 3.e).
In Visual Board 3.f.g.h.j. and k., including some of the fashion designers (Stella, McCartney,
Jason Wu), and some brands (Nikole Bakti), there are control panels and dresses with a
bandage texture that enable women to look slimmer. These dresses taking their places in the
shop windows in recent years let your body look slimmer with tone and color effects.
Those models formed with the contrast panels consisting of dark and light colors make the
body look slimmer. The optical illusion effect is provided by obtaining a taller appearance
because the panels are vertical and in dark colors. As can be seen in Visual Board 3.1, the
waist was made to look slimmer with the help of the gradient dark brown tone on the waist
part of the dress, designed by the brand ‘Herve Leger,’ with a bandage texture. The fabrics
and cuts of dresses with a bandage texture are diverse, and when they are worn, they both
surround the body giving it a shape like a corset, and they don’t limit the motion thanks to
their comfortable texture. (http://onedio.com/haber/ince-gosteren-elbiseler-44938).
Results
Fashion, which can be identified as a social and psychological phenomenon, is being shaped
according to the changes in people’s lifestyles, and meets with clients with various consumer
needs and expectations, and the fabric styles with new materials, different surfaces and
textures, and technologies. In designing those surfaces and models, the fashion sector is being
influenced by various disciplines, art movements, institutions and sociological events. On the
models of clothing in fashion sector, the results reached in this study, implemented for
revealing the optical illusion practices affecting the styles, silhouettes, and fabrics, are as
follows:

Designers use brightness-color contrasts (Contrast Color, Checker-Shadow, etc.) and
the geometrical illusions (Helmoltz Kare, Hermann Grid, etc.) on the surface of fabrics



June 2015
most frequently. Furthermore, using lines/stripes on clothes plays a key role in
creating the optical illusion, and this creation provides help on colors and textures.
With various designs implemented concerning the motion and light illusions, the
futuristic models were revealed.
In the study, as well as the models created with the effect of the optical art movement,
there were also designs that were created with the effect of Gestalt’s complementary
principles. These principles can be classified as ‘Closure,’ ‘Constancy,’ and ‘Figure &
Ground Relationship.’
In recent years, some designers and brands have been designing models regarding how
to make the body form look slimmer with the help of the optical illusion effects. This
condition is provided sometimes through color contrasts and vertical contrast panels,
and sometimes through the models shaping the body like a corset when worn with
bandage-textured fabrics, and not limiting the motion with its comfortable texture as
well. Again, the ‘silhouette’ appearance, showing the body slimmer, was obtained
through the ‘hourglass’ appearance, provided through various cuts and cups, and color
contrasts used on models.
The following could be considered among the fashion designers and brands who use
the optical illusion frequently: the designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Roberto
Capucci, Kansai Yamamoto, Gareth Pugh, Masahiro Nakagawa and Rica, Chanel,
Alexander McQueen, Herve Leger, Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs, Jean Paul
Gaultier, Lisa Perry, Zuhair Murad, Blanka Matragi, and the brands such as Ella Moss,
Miusol, Viktor & Rolf, Roman, Topshop, and Nikole Bakti.
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Optical Illusions and Effects on Clothing Design

Transcription

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