INFINITI G35

Transcription

INFINITI G35

INFINITI G35
298HP ENGINE
INTERCOOLED SUPERCHARGER
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
2005 STEVE MILLEN SPORTPARTS, INC.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, transcribed,
transmitted, or translated into another language in any form, by any means
without written permission of STEVE MILLEN SPORTPARTS, INC.
Steve Millen Sportparts, Inc. - 3176 Airway Avenue - Costa Mesa, CA 92626 - Phone. 714-540-5566 - Fax. 714-540-5784 - www.stillen.com
Rev. D
Congratulations…
on your purchasing the STILLEN supercharger system for your 350Z.
For the smoothest installation and best performance and reliability from your supercharger, please
follow these simple points.
• Changing the spark plugs to 1 range colder is required with this kit. NGK part# PLFR6A-11
gapped to 1.1mm (0.043in.)
• Read all the instructions to familiarize yourself with various parts and operations.
• Layout all parts on a bench and check that all of the parts are accounted for per the Parts List.
Some parts on the list are already assembled, torqued and sealed, DO NOT DISASSEMBLE. If
any parts are missing or damaged, please call us immediately.
• Gather all required tools before starting installation.
• Use 91 octane or higher fuel. Fuel quality will vary depending on manufacturer, always use
quality fuel.
• This kit is designed for stock engines. If the engine is modified in any way, contact STILLEN to
discuss any conflicts or issues that could affect the superchargers performance.
• Aftermarket re-calibration devices that modify the fuel or spark curve are not recommended and
may cause engine damage or failure.
• The addition of headers or removal of the catalytic converters will affect the performance of this
kit.
• This STILLEN supercharger system is intended to be installed on a well maintained, healthy
engine. We do not recommend installing this system on a sick or damaged engine, this can
result in premature engine failure and possible supercharger failure. Stillen is not responsible
for damages due to improper installation or damages due to installation on worn or
damaged engines.
• Do not alter, modify, or adjust the STILLEN supercharger system in any way, shape or form.
Unauthorized changes to boost levels, electronics or any other system will void warranties and
can cause catastrophic damage. If this system is being installed on a new vehicle it is very
important that factory break-in procedures are followed to prevent any adverse affect on the
vehicle.
! !
WARNING:
WE STRONGLY URGE THAT YOU REFER THIS
INSTALLATION TO AN ASE CERTIFIED MECHANIC
WITH EXPERIENCE IN THIS TYPE OF INSTALLATION.
FAILURE TO DO SO COULD LIMIT YOUR TECH
SUPPORT AND AFFECT YOUR WARRANTY.
Page 2 of 23
Installation:
1. Layout all parts on bench and check that all
of the parts are accounted for per packing
list. Read all instructions before starting to
familiarize yourself with various parts and
operations. Change the spark plugs to 1
range colder. NGK part #PLFR6A-11
gapped to 1.1mm (0.043 in.)
2. At this time it is best to remove the hood
and place it in a safe place. Open radiator
petcock and drain coolant. Also disconnect
negative terminal of battery before
proceeding further.
3. Next remove the decorative engine cover
and the strut tower brace. Neither one of
these items will be reused after
supercharger installation.
4. Remove the air tube that connects the
throttle body to the mass air flow sensor.
Don’t forget to disconnect the crankcase
vent tube that is attached to it also. Save
this tube, as it will be reused later. (PHOTO
1)
5. Remove the four bolts and electrical
connector from the throttle body. Set aside
the gasket and throttle body for later use.
6. Remove the top half of the upper plenum.
This is accomplished by removing the 16
bolts and 2 nuts that connect the two
halves. Remove all brackets attached to
upper half. Remove 2 vacuum lines, 2
coolant lines and lift off top
plenum.(PHOTO 2)
7. Remove bottom half by removing the six
bolts down the center and the two 6mm
nuts at each end. Remove PCV hose and
lift off bottom half. Save old gasket for
reuse. It is a good idea to cover the open
lower plenum with tape to prevent foreign
matter from entering. (PHOTO 3)
8. Installing the double pulley on the front of
the engine. Remove belt and stock pulley
and set aside. Use the supplied M6x16MM
bolts and lock washers and install pulley.
Torque bolts to 45-50 in-lbs. (PHOTO 4)
Page 3 of 23
9. Now the small (1.9”) idler pulley and plate
will be installed. On the passenger side of
the engine, you will see a black, triangular
plate. Remove the 3 bolts and the plate.
Clean all the old silicone from the timing
cover and run an even, continuous bead of
silicone in the grove. Install the new cover
plate using the supplied bolts. Torque to
45-50 in-lbs. Install the collar, pulley,
10mm bolt and washer. (PHOTO 5)
10. Using the longest of the supplied belts
(K060470) route the belt the same way as
stock except now the belt will go from P/S
pump under new idler and around double
pulley. Tighten serpentine belt so that ¼
turn maximum deflection when twisted is
attained.
11. Back up on top you will see a large wire
harness run parallel with the timing cover.
The two harness brackets pointed out will
be removed and not reused. (PHOTO 6)
12. On the front of the timing cover there is a
long rubber bypass hose that goes from left
to right of the engine. Remove this hose
complete with the attached brackets and
save clamps for reuse in next step.
13. Using one of the supplied 90° hoses, install
in place of the removed hose. Route this
hose under the top edge of the fan shroud,
above the fans, install the saved clamps
and secure with 2 zip ties. If you drill 2
small holes in the fan shroud for each zip
tie and route the tie up from the bottom,
through 1 hole, down through the 2nd hole,
and around the hose, this will ensure a
clean looking install. (PHOTO 8A)
Page 4 of 23
14. Next you will be replacing the crankcase
breather hose that runs between the 2
valve covers (PHOTO 9). Using the
supplied 40” hose and 90° fittings, route the
hose between the injectors and the left
cylinder head. Make a large kink free ‘U’ at
the back of the engine and finish at the right
cylinder head. Attach the 2 90° fittings to
the ends of the hose. Cut the OEM breather
line in the center and re-attach to the valve
breather nipples, trim the other ends and
attach to the 90° fittings. Some trimming of
the 40” hose may be necessary for perfect
fit (PHOTO 10). Note: The breather nipples
on the valve covers do not move and are
somewhat fragile. Use appropriate caution
when installing the hose assemblies. A dry
type silicone spray may help some.
15. Back to the front of the engine timing cover
area you will see a rectangular opening.
There are four 6MM bolts at each corner of
the opening. Remove these 4 bolts as well
as the two 12MM bolts directly below the
opening (PHOTO 11).
16. Now you will install the drive assembly. This
step will require some patience, so be
warned. Make sure the machine key is
located underneath the tape as supplied.
Remove tape, being sure not to lose
machine key. Insert the shaft of the drive
assembly through the opening and hold
there. Now with other hand fit 4-rib pulley to
shaft ensuring key is still in place (PHOTO
12). Once the pulley is on the shaft (it
doesn’t have to be on all the way, just
started) install the 3/8” washer and 3/8-24x
1” HHCS on the end of the shaft. Did you
drop the bolt and washer? This is a good
time to have a magnetic pick up tool and
retrieve it out of the engine valley. Once
you have it started; you can spin the front
pulley clockwise to draw in the rear pulley
all the way down. When this bolt is snug,
install the four M6x65MM HHCS with lock
washers and the two M12x110MM HHCS
with 12MM flat washers on the drive
assembly. Torque the 6MM to 9-10 ft-lbs.
and the 12MM bolts to 51-58 ft-lbs. Torque
rear pulley bolt to 30 ft-lbs.
Page 5 of 23
17. Install the lower tensioner assembly onto
the just installed drive unit. Use the three
supplied M12x50MM flat SHCS and torque
to 40 ft-lbs. (PHOTO 13).
18. Install the K060288 belt around the double
pulley, idler and drive assembly as shown
(PHOTO 14). If you have to remove the
idler pulley for belt installation, be sure to
install the spacer and dust shields in proper
order. Tighten this belt so ¼ turn maximum
turn when twisted is attained.
Note: Fuel under high pressure. Use
appropriate safety precautions when
working with the fuel rail assembly.
19. On the passenger side fuel rail there is a
hard fuel feed line. Disconnect the feed line
at the flange and insert the fuel rail spacer
(without the fitting) and O-ring between the
hard line and stock fuel rail. The O-ring will
seat against the flange on the fuel rail.
Using the supplied M6x45MM bolts, tighten
to 50-60 in-lbs. Install the adapter (with the
fitting) and O-ring underneath the damper
on the feed line with the fitting facing the
rear of the vehicle and torque to the same.
(PHOTO 14&15).
Page 6 of 23
20. Back on top of the engine you will see two
6MM studs sticking out of the lower plenum.
These will have to be removed. After
removing tape covering plenum, lay Stillen
lower plenum on top making sure to keep
factory metal gasket in place. Using the
seven M6x35MM Flat SHCS in the
recessed holes torque these to 9-10ft-lbs.
(PHOTO 16)
21. On the passenger side of the lower plenum
you will see a 1/8” brass nipple tapped into
it. Attach the supplied 1/8” vacuum line to
the fitting. This line will be routed to the
fuel/timing control box later.
22. Now install the intercooler/supercharger
assembly. A friend’s help is useful during
this step. Using the supplied tube of
anaerobic sealer (DO NOT USE
SILICONE), run a continuous 1/8” bead
around the entire mating surface of the
lower plenum. Set the short, 6-rib belt in
place around the lower pulley and hold in
place while your helper angles the nose of
the supercharger through the upper portion
of the belt. Gently lower the assembly onto
the lower plenum, trying not to disturb the
bead of sealer. (PHOTO 17) Insert the
supplied ¼-20x5/8” SHCS in all the holes
except for the 3 spots noted with the
arrows (PHOTO 16). The front arrow will
use the M6x80MM SHCS and the rear
corner arrow in the corner will take the ¼20x1 3/8” SHCS. The center rear arrow
uses a ¼”-20 x 1” HHCS (PHOTO 17A). At
rear corner, remove the EVAP control
solenoid from its bracket and install in onto
the new, supplied bracket. Mount the EVAP
solenoid, fuel regulator brace box under the
rear corner bolt. (PHOTO 18) Torque all
bolts to 85-inch lbs.
23. Install the fuel line, using the 2 supplies 90°
fittings, between the fuel adapter and the
fuel injector block. This is located on the
lower portion of the aluminum inlet at the
back of the supercharger. Tighten all fittings
sufficiently to ensure no leaks. DO NOT
OVER TIGHTEN! (PHOTO 18)
Page 7 of 23
24. Install the upper tensioner. Apply a drop of
thread locking compound to the 3 1/420x3/4 bolts. Using these 3 bolts and lock
washers, mount the tensioner to the top
plate (PHOTO 19). Be sure to index the
center bolt so the tensioner slides past it
without hitting. Tighten the long tensioner
bolt until the non-tensioned side of the belt
stops at about 90˚ when twisted. Tighten
the lock nut on the front of the new pulley.
Tighten the long adjuster bolt until the lock
washer is compressed to keep the bolt from
vibrating loose.
25. Below the throttle body flange on the
supercharger inlet you will see two 5/16”
water barbs. Attach the inner line; replace
the outer line with supplied 5/16” hose and
clamps. (PHOTO 21A)
26. Bolt the factory throttle body to the flange
on the inlet. Use the original steel gasket
and 6MM SHCS. Tighten these to 64-85 inlbs. Connect the TPS connector also to the
throttle body.
27. Next route the vacuum lines. You will be
moving the brake booster vacuum line with
from the engine compartment to the master
cylinder compartment and trimming it to fit
in place of the vacuum line on the booster.
This vacuum line contains a one-way
check valve, make sure the arrow on the
vacuum line points to the engine.
(PHOTO 20&21) Route the rest of the
vacuum lines per the supplied diagram.
(FIGURE 2) Make sure all the lines are free
from kinks and are securely attached.
28. Now install the throttle body tube removed
in (PHOTO 1). Don’t forget to attach the
crankcase vent hose to the throttle body
tube. Tighten all hose clamps.
Page 8 of 23
Fuel/timing control unit:
Next the fuel / timing computer will be wired in.
The easiest way to do this is by pulling the
ECU connector out of the body and into the
engine compartment where it can be worked
on in the open.
Depending on the application, you may have
unused wires on the Stillen control unit. Coil
these up and zip tie out of the way.
In the kit, you are provided with scotch locks
and crimp connectors. They are provided for
convenience. It is HIGHLY recommended
that all connections be soldered and
covered with heat shrink or electrical tape.
1. On the passengers side floor, remove the
right kick panel, as well as the under dash
cover.
2. Unplug the ECU connector by pressing the
locking clip and lifting the lever, the
connector will uncouple itself from the ECU.
Unplug the remaining connectors on the
loom. The number and type of connectors
will vary from vehicle to vehicle. (PHOTO
22)
3. In the engine compartment, remove the
passenger side cowl cover to reveal the
bulkhead seal for the harness. Grab the
edge of the seal and pull up until it pops out
of the hole. Gently pull the harness and
connectors out through the hole and lay
them on the fender. (PHOTO 23&24)
Page 9 of 23
4. Remove the electrical tape from the
harness near the ECU connector and peel
back the sleeve to expose the wires.
5. Using a screwdriver, carefully pry off the
plastic cover on the back of the ECU
connector to access the wires as they enter
the connector. (PHOTO 25)
Note: When referring to a pin-out diagram, it is
always viewed from the wire side of the
connector. Due to different models or vehicle
options, wire colors may vary. Always refer to
the pin number (wire location on the
connector), rather than the color.
Note: During the installation of the control unit,
you will be making 2 types of connections,
“Intercept” and “T”.
“T” connections just monitor a signal going
through a wire. This connection only requires
tapping into the wire. This connection is made
on 4 ECU wires, pin #s 34, 50, 73, 120
“Intercept” connections modify a signal in a
wire. This requires cutting the wire from the
sensor and routing it into the control unit, then
routing the modified signal to the ECU. This
connection is made on 5 ECU wires, pin #s 13,
14, 33, 53 AND 72.
6. Refer to the wire diagram for wiring in the
control unit. (FIGURE 3)
7. Reinstall the plastic cover onto the back of
the ECU connector. Pull the sleeve back
down over the wires and tape closed using
electrical tape.
Page 10 of 23
8. Using a razor blade, carefully create a slice
in the boot on the bulkhead seal and route
the 1/8” vacuum line and the negative
injector wire through. Attach the negative
injector wire to wire 16 of the 16 pin
connector on the Stillen control unit
connector. (PHOTO 26)
9. Gently push all the connectors back down
the hole and into the body. Press the
bulkhead into the hole until it clicks into
place.
10. Connect all connectors. Plug in the Stillen
control unit and connect the vacuum line
using the 1/8” fitting. Attach the control unit
to the wall or module using the Velcro and
reinstall the panels. (PHOTO 27)
Page 11 of 23
STAGE 3 ONLY!
FUEL PUMP INSTALL
1.
2.
3.
4.
Caution: Never work on an open
fuel system in an enclosed area.
Always have adequate ventilation and
be in an area with no open flames or
sparks, and NO SMOKING.
The fuel system is under pressure, use
appropriate safety precautions when
disconnection the fuel system!
The fuel pump is accessed from behind
the passenger seat. On the 350Z,
remove the inside of the glove box. On
the G35, remove the rear seat. Remove
the screws on the cover plate and lift out
of the way. (PHOTO FP1)
Unplug the connector and fuel line.
Remove the screws securing the
assembly to the tank. Carefully lift out
the fuel pump housing assembly.
Disconnect the saddle tank crossover
tube. Be careful of the float arm.
On a clean work bench, unplug the fuel
pump. Remove the lower bucket and
float assembly. Using a screwdriver,
unclip the retainer that holds the fuel
pump inside the housing. Remove the
filter on the bottom of the assembly.
Remove the pump. (PHOTO FP2&FP3)
Page 12 of 23
5. On the supplied fuel pump, it will be
necessary to file off the 4 tabs on the
bottom, as well as the 2 round pieces on
the top next to the electrical connector.
(PHOTO FP4&FP5)
6. Transfer the outlet nipple seal to the new
pump and carefully reassemble the pump
assembly. The black rubber spacer will not
be reused. (PHOTO FP6)
7. Reinstall the pump assembly into the car.
Be sure the large seal is in place and the
tube for the saddle tank is attached. Install
the locking ring.
8. Attach the fuel line and connector. Install
the cover and re-assemble the glove box or
rear seat.
Page 13 of 23
Intercooler installation:
Begin your installation by lifting the vehicle and
securely placing it on jack stands. Observe all
proper safety precautions when working on the
vehicle.
1. Remove the front fascia. It is attached via
push-clips and 6MM bolts on top and
bottom of the fascia. There are 2 bolts on
each side that are behind the inner
splashguard, the guard will have to be
moved to allow access.
2. Mount the heat exchanger to the front
bumper mounts using supplied brackets.
The heat exchanger should be mounted as
high up on the brackets as possible.
(PHOTO 28)
3. Remove the coolant overflow reservoir
/support bracket from the passenger side of
the vehicle. Slide the OEM bracket off the
bottle and slide on the long supplied
mounting bracket to the reservoir. Also
attach the supplied ¼” overflow hose at this
time. Remove the stock air box and you will
see an intake baffle assembly below it,
remove it and the two 6MM bolts that attach
it to the frame rail. You will be mounting the
coolant reservoir in this location with the
supplied 8MM bolts. It is shown in photo 29
without the bottle attached for
mounting/orientation purposes. Once this
inner bracket is attached you may attach
the outer bracket to the coolant reservoir.
Using the supplied 6MM bolts and nuts
mount the bracket as shown in Photo 30.
Route the coolant hose towards the radiator
at this time.
Note: Depending on date of manufacture, the
new mounting for the overflow tank may differ.
We have included both types of brackets.
Discard unused brackets.
4. Remove and discard the passenger side air
deflector /splashguard held in place by 3
plastic clips Mount the intercooler pump
using the supplied Adel clamp as shown in
PHOTO 31. The aluminum spacer goes
between the tabs of the Adel clamp to
prevent the pump from being damaged by
the clamp. You will be using the mounting
Page 14 of 23
hole shown by the arrow in PHOTO 28.
Route the positive wire for the pump into
the engine compartment by the battery and
leave there for now. Connect the negative
wire to a suitable chassis ground.
Note: Depending on the date of manufacture,
there may be a need to cut or grind down a rib
on the core support that interferes with the
pump mounting.
5. Cut a piece of ¾ “heater hose
approximately 30” and route it to the inlet of
the water pump (bottom fitting). Route this
hose into the engine compartment as
shown in PHOTO 32.
6. Using the supplied 12” section of ¾” X 5/8”
heater hose, trim to fit the upper heat
exchanger fitting to the outlet of the pump.
Secure the hose with the supplied clamps.
Route the supplied 60” piece of molded
hose onto the rear intercooler fitting to the
lower right fitting of the heat exchanger but
do not connect at this time. Make sure the
90-degree end is the one in the engine
compartment. Use the supplied Adel clamp
to mount it next to the oil dipstick as shown
in PHOTO 33
7. Install the header tank in the space created
by removal of the coolant reservoir. The
hose that was pictured in PHOTO 32 will be
attached to the fitting on the bottom of the
header tank, trim hose length for proper fit.
Secure the tank using the 3 bolts removed
from the coolant bottle removal. Connect
the other end of hose to the inlet of pump
and secure with hose clamp.
8. Connect the 90-degree end of the molded
hose you routed in step # 5 to the front
intercooler fitting. Trim excess length off 90degree end to allow for hood clearance.
Ensure routing is free from kinks and sharp
objects. If routing is satisfactory cut to fit the
other end of hose to the lower right fitting of
the heat exchanger and secure with hose
clamps. PHOTO 34. You will also need to
use another supplied Adel clamp to secure
the hose next to the coolant bottle.
9. Install the 90-degree end of the other 60”
molded hose onto the front intercooler
Page 15 of 23
fitting. Trim excess length off 90-degree
end to allow for hood clearance. Route the
hose to the header tank and secure loosely
at the points noted with the supplied Adel
clamps. PHOTO 35. Your hose installation
should look like PHOTO 35. Tighten Adel
clamps and install hose clamps at both
ends.
10. Now you will install the supplied relay and
harness. In the battery compartment you
will see the battery ground cable secured
by two 6MM bolts. Remove one bolt and
place the relay in this location. Secure the
relay by the original bolt. (PHOTO 36)
11. Open the fuse box by pulling apart the
bottom and lifting it straight up. You will be
installing the supplied fuse tap onto the fuel
pump relay fuse (top right). Pull out the
fuse, attach the tap to the fuse and reinstall
it with the tap on the right side. (PHOTO
37&38)
12. The wiring of the relay will be as follows:
Connect the yellow wire from the relay to
the fuse tap. The large, fused red wire will
go to battery. The black wire will go to
ground and the red wire will go to pump
and the fuel injector red wire. Your wiring
should be as in FIGURE 1.
13. Attach the injector connector to the fuel
injector.
NOTE: During filling, do NOT allow the tank to
empty. The pump will drain the tank in the time
it takes to walk back around to the front of the
car. If the pump runs dry during filling it may
create an airlock in the system requiring
additional bleeding.
11. Fill the intercooler header tank with a 50/50
water/coolant mix. Water Wetter is a good
additive that will increase the efficiency of
the intercooler system. Once the tank is full,
connect the battery.
12. Turn the ignition on and listen for the pump
to start but do not start the car. Let the
pump run for 2-3 seconds, turn off the
ignition and refill the tank. Repeat this step
until the level in the tank level no longer
drops. Turn the ignition on and check the
tank, you should see water flow into the
Page 16 of 23
header tank. Lift and shake the intercooler manifold hoses slightly by hand to help purge any air in the
intercooler core.
As an alternative, have a friend fill the tank when you turn the ignition on.
13. Once no leaks are verified on the intercooler system, start the engine. Check the engine for
coolant, fuel and vacuum leaks. If everything is satisfactory shut off engine and reinstall front
fascia. Lower car from jack stands, let cool and recheck coolant levels of engine and intercooler
system. Test drive vehicle and you are done!!
Intercooler Hose Routing
Page 17 of 23
If you have a mechanical cooling fan:
Your install procedure will be slightly different. Remove fan shroud. Remove the four nuts and remove
fan, along with studs that secure the fan to the OEM idler assembly. With fan out of vehicle, use the
supplied template to trim rear corner of fan blades as shown in Photo 39. Be sure to trim all blades
equally as possible to preserve fan balance. Before installing fan, also complete step #9, 1.9” idler
pulley installation.
Install the double pulley onto the idler, then the supplied fan spacer. It is easiest to put both belt #
K060288 (from step #19) and K060500 in place at this time before fan install. Install fan shroud along
with fan, then secure with the four supplied 6MMx65MM FHCS. Torque these bolts to 45-50 in-lbs.
You may now continue on with step #10 in the regular instructions
Notice to Installer:
It is important to give the section of these instructions titled
“Care and Maintenance” to the owner of the vehicle.
Page 18 of 23
CARE & MAINTENANCE:
The STILLEN supercharger is designed to be virtually maintenance free. The oil in the supercharger
is designed to last 100,000 miles between changes. All bearings used are lubricated and sealed.
However there are some basic care items that should be checked regularly.
□Always use the best fuel available for your vehicle. MINIMUM OF 91 OCTANE.
□IF FOR WHATEVER REASON THE VEHICLE STARTS TO PING OR DETONATE UNDER LOAD
OR HIGH RPM GET OFF THE THROTTLE!
□Changing climate, altitude or atmospheric conditions will affect your vehicle. Various types of fuel
(e.g. oxygenated, ethanol, etc) will also affect the performance of your vehicle.
□Use replacement spark plugs, NGK part# PLFR6A-11 gapped to 1.1mm (0.043in.)
□Check the supercharger drive belts regularly. Replace any that show signs of cracking/tearing.
Check coolant level in intercooler often. It should be changed annually to maintain peak
performance.
□Check your air filter regularly. A clogged air filter can drastically affect your vehicle. A ‘drop in’ high
performance air filter is acceptable. The addition of an “open element style” hi flow filter system
may cause high noise levels.
□High quality synthetic oil is recommended and oil changes should be done every 3,000 miles. This
improves engine durability and longevity in a forced induction application.
□Do not alter, modify or adjust the Stillen supercharger system in any way. Unauthorized changes to
boost levels, electronics or any other system will void warranties and can cause catastrophic
engine damage.
The addition of headers or race pipes will adversely affect the performance of this kit. Please call your
STILLEN representative if you have headers or race pipes.
Page 19 of 23
FIGURE 1
Relay schematic
Page 20 of 23
FIGURE 2
Supercharger vacuum schematic
Page 21 of 23
FIGURE 3
Wiring schematic for fuel/timing unit
Page 22 of 23
TROUBLESHOOTING
SYMPTOM
POSSIBLE
CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
No start
Control unit wiring
Check power and grounds to control unit.
Make sure connections are soldered correctly
Long crank time but car
starts
Control unit wiring
Check control unit wiring per diagram. Pay special
attention to cam and crank signal wires.
(normal on first start after
install)
Make sure connections are soldered correctly
Ping during acceleration
Low octane fuel
(some slight tip-in ping at low
RPM is normal)
Old/contaminated fuel
Fill tank with premium fuel from good station. 91
octane or better.
Fuel looses octane rapidly, If fuel has been sitting for
a long time, replace with fresh.
Insufficient fuel delivery
Check fuel pressure. Pressure should be aprox 51
PSI at idle and should stay above 45 PSI during a full
throttle run to redline.
Injector(s) clogged
Vacuum line to Control
Unit
disconnected/pinched
Low boost
High idle/rough idle
Additional injector wiring. Check injector connector
and power at relay.
Check vacuum line for kinks or leaks.
Slipping belt(s)
Recheck belt tension. Check for oily or worn belts
Dirty air filter
Clean/replace as necessary.
High altitude
Normal
With Headers / Race
pipes installed
Normal
Vacuum leak
Check all vacuum connections for leaks or cracks.
Check for leaks at base of supercharger and intake
gaskets.
Loud squeal under full
throttle.
Slipping belt(s)
Recheck belt tension. Check for oily or worn belts
Rattle from
supercharger/drive assy. at
idle
Normal
Slight rattle is normal and should decrease at higher
RPM.
Whine from supercharger
under full throttle.
Normal
All superchargers make noise, this noise can be made
worse through aftermarket intake systems. For the
quietest system, use the stock air box with a drop-in
style air filter.
Page 23 of 23

INFINITI G35

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