ask an expert

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Platinum necklace with multi-shaped diamonds totaling approximately 70 carats
Platinum earrings with rose-cut, baguette-cut and round brilliant diamonds
COLLECTIONS
18 A. LANGE & SÖHNE rings in a new year with its first
decimal repeater, the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater.
20 ARNOLD & SON melds a reverence for tradition with
an ambitious philosophy of innovation in the DSTB.
22 AUDEMARS PIGUET emphasizes feminine style with
several additions to its Ladies Millenary collection.
26 BELL & ROSS spotlights advanced aviation materials
with the debut of the exceptional BR-X1 Carbone Forgé.
28 CARTIER unveils the most complex timepiece it’s ever
produced, the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication.
36 CHOPARD wins the hearts and
wrists of gear heads everywhere
with its Mille Miglia GTS
Power Control.
40 CLERC unleashes a dive
watch like no other with its
dynamic Hydroscaph GMT
Power Reserve Chronometer.
42 DE BETHUNE explores watchmaking’s deep connection to the
cosmos with the spectacular
DB25T Zodiac.
50 GIRARD-PERREGAUX
turns centuries of tradition
on its head with the Minute
Repeater Tourbillon with
Gold Bridges.
52 GREUBEL FORSEY strikes a
balance between engineering and
elegance with the Tourbillon 24
Secondes Vision.
56 H. MOSER & CIE. delivers understated beauty and
technical sophistication with the Endeavour Tourbillon.
58 HYT introduces the H3, the first-ever linear time display
from the undisputed masters of liquid horology.
60 IWC welcomes the Portugieser Annual Calendar to celebrate
the 75th anniversary of the popular Portugieser collection.
68 JAEGER-LECOULTRE brings the heavens to life with its Master
Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel.
72 LUDOVIC BALLOUARD uses his keen mind and
unbridled imagination to create mechanical poetry.
COLLECTIONS
74 PARMIGIANI FLEURIER sets impressive technical
and aesthetic benchmarks with the 1950 Tonda Tourbillon.
76 RICHARD MILLE expands its reputation for envelopepushing innovation with the RM 60-01 Voiles de Saint Barth.
78 URWERK adds radiant colors to the UR-105TA’s signature
satellite display in the Black Lemon and Black Orange.
80 VACHERON CONSTANTIN marks 260 years of continuous
manufacturing with the Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955.
84 WALTHAM aims high as its Aeronaval watches take part
in a perilous mountain-climbing expedition in Argentina.
ABOUT THE COVER
The evolution of Strasbourg
Cathedral’s astronomical clock
tower represents mankind’s
continuously improving grasp of
science, technology and philosophy.
FEATURES
8 CELLINI JEWELERS explores a selection of magnificent
sapphire jewelry, and also revisits some of its favorite
“Ask the Expert” columns from iW Magazine.
46 COVER STORY Find out why the astronomical clock
tower in Strasbourg Cathedral has awed visitors for more
than six centuries.
62 CULINARY CAMEOS Prepare your palate as Cellini
delivers the ultimate list of Japanese restaurants in New
York City where you can enjoy the best omakase tastings.
88 CLOCKWISE A glossary of horological terms.
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Michael Graziadei
ART DIRECTOR, PHOTO DIRECTOR
Samantha Hickey
MANAGING EDITOR
Scott Hickey
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Jonathan Bues
Amy Cohen
Elizabeth Doerr
Victoria Gomelsky
Jason Heaton
James Lamdin
COPY EDITOR, CONTRIBUTING WRITER
Rachel Young
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
David Katz
..
Bjorg Magnea
FOR A COMPLIMENTARY
SUBSCRIPTION OR
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION,
PLEASE CALL
8OO CELLINI
VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT
CelliniJewelers.com
STATUS is an annual publication
by Cellini Jewelers. Copyright ©2015
Reproduction without permission is prohibited
On Our Watch
W
elcome to Status, where we present exquisite timepieces from 20 of the
most influential watch brands in the world today. In this issue we
explore their new collections to illustrate how diverse the telling of time can
be. No matter what your passion is, there is a watch for enthusiasts from
every walk of life.
Let’s go! It’s off to the races with Chopard’s Mille Miglia GTS Power Control.
Or if you prefer the beach, there’s the Richard Mille RM 60-01 Voiles de Saint
Barth, or Clerc’s dynamic Hydroscaph GMT Power Reserve Chronometer for a
quick ocean dive. Explore the highest peak in the Americas with the Waltham
CDI. But if you want to see the heavens, check out Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Grand
Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpetual. Every timepiece
within these pages is distinctive and a delight to wear. We’re sure you’ll find
the perfect one just for you.
Our cover story about the Strasbourg astronomical clock tower reminds us
how far back horology has influenced our daily lives. Part of its legacy is that
it was the world’s tallest building from 1647 to 1874. Today we are fortunate
to carry such towers on our wrists. In Culinary Cameos we challenge you to
open your mind and palate as we explore the adventures of omakase dining.
And look to our glossary to help answer your questions about the timepieces in
the magazine.
We hope you enjoy reading Status and always welcome your feedback. If
you would like more information about the timepieces in this issue, please call
800-CELLINI or email us at [email protected]. Look for the online
version of Status in the Catalogs & Publications section at CelliniJewelers.com.
Michael Graziadei
Editor in Chief
CELLINI JEWELERS
Waldorf Astoria Hotel
GOTHAM CITY GLAMOUR
T
Among the world’s leading independent jewelers, Cellini is celebrated for
its breathtaking selection, impeccable quality and knowledgeable advice.
he company started in 1977 when Leon Adams opened a
boutique in the historic Waldorf Astoria New York, tempting guests as they walked past showcases filled with
timepieces from haute horlogerie brands like Audemars
Piguet, alongside dazzling jewelry designs.
During its first 10 years, Cellini witnessed the fall of the
mechanical watch industry at the hands of mass-market quartz
movements, as well as its eventual rebirth fueled — in no small
part — by the growing number of American collectors who appreciated the level of craftsmanship a fine timepiece represents.
Early on, Cellini distinguished itself as one of the few places
in the country where enthusiasts could experience, in person,
such an impressive array of Swiss watches from renowned
manufactures like Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
8
Cellini came of age in the early Eighties as the modern
watchmaking renaissance began to unfold. As the popularity of
fine watchmaking took off, the company kept pace by opening a
second boutique in 1987, taking its place among the legendary
luxury brands lining Madison Avenue.
At the same time, Cellini emerged as an influential tastemaker, demonstrating an uncanny knack for staying a step
ahead of trends. In particular, Adams has established a solid
track record for spotting talented brands early on and providing a showcase for their handiwork. “I can’t tell you how many
miles I’ve walked over the years at the watch fairs in Basel and
Geneva, looking for that rush that comes from seeing something that blows me away, and makes me want to share it with
other collectors,” Adams says.
Waldorf Astoria Hotel
Madison Avenue
NATURAL BEAUTY
PHOTOGRAPHS (THIS PAGE AND FACING): BJORG MAGNEA (BOUTIQUES); DAVID KATZ (JEWELRY)
But Cellini is so much more than a haven for the horologically obsessed. Its
boutiques are also home to an eclectic collection of exquisite jewelry. Visitors
experience an impressive selection that ranges from Carrera y Carrera’s
timeless expressions of Old World artisanship, to Sutra’s exotic and colorful designs, along with imaginative artists like Wendy Yue.
At the heart of the collection is Cellini’s signature jewelry. These
expertly crafted, handmade pieces provide a magnificent showcase for
the highest-quality gemstones, everything from diamonds in all shapes,
sizes and colors to exotic jewels like extremely rare black opals.
For those who seek bespoke sophistication, specialists at both Cellini
boutiques are ready to help bring clients’ personalized design to life with
custom-made pieces. Those friendly experts are also available should you
need advice for anything from planning the perfect surprise to choosing
a special gift for an engagement or anniversary.
That personalized touch, as much as its considerable collection,
has made Cellini Jewelers a luxury landmark in New York City for nearly
four decades. ¨
Opal earrings by Wendy Yue
with tanzanites, sapphires
and black diamonds in 18-karat blackened gold.
Garzas pendant by
Carrera y Carrera
with prasiolite and
diamonds, set in
18-karat gold.
Rings by Sutra with brown diamonds and
rubies, set in 18-karat blackened gold.
9
CELLINI JEWELERS
This timeless treasure
is ready for the red
carpet with oval and
pear-shaped sapphires
framed by a multitude
of round brilliant
diamonds.
My Blue
HEAVEN
One of nature’s hardest gemstones,
sapphire is also one of fashion’s
most flexible.
I
t’s true that sapphires can be found in a range
of vibrant colors, but September’s birthstone
is undoubtedly best known for its magnificent
shades of blue. From dark and velvety indigo,
to bright and sunny azure, blue sapphires can be
worn with nearly every color in your wardrobe.
Today, the gemstone’s versatility and elegance
continue to inspire designers from around the
world as they create sapphire jewelry in every
conceivable style. Here are a few favorites from
our latest collection. ¨
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID KATZ
Like stars in the night sky,
this rose-cut diamond
and sapphire jewelry has
enough style to last until
the break of dawn.
The combination of rose-cut sapphires and
18-karat blacked gold lends a modern edge
to these matching cuff, earrings and ring.
CELLINI JEWELERS
Ask An
EXPERT
For the last three
years, Cellini Jewelers
President Leon Adams
has appeared in iW Magazine,
answering readers’ questions about
fine timepieces in his column,
“Ask An Expert.” During that time,
he’s shared his insights about everything
from collecting and maintaining watches,
to explaining what makes them tick.
B
efore the column
begins its fourth year,
Cellini and iW look back
on a selection of some of
the most popular columns
from past issues.
If you would like to
ask the expert a question, email
[email protected].
Be sure to check out upcoming
issues of iW Magazine for
the answer, as well as the
latest news from the world
of watches.
IS THE FINISHING ON A MOVEMENT FUNCTIONAL OR DECORATIVE?
I
ts main purpose is to enhance the movement’s visual
aesthetic. But that’s not to say it isn’t important. On
the contrary, the level of finish applied by hand to a
movement’s components is one of the main factors that
separates high horology from ordinary watchmaking.
Since clear casebacks came into vogue in the 1980s,
top manufacturers have elevated the importance of
movement decoration, each one using this time-honored
art as a way to express its unique horological personality.
As a result, calibers in many of today’s high-end wristwatches boast some truly elaborate decoration.
Even though brands take different aesthetic
approaches, a number of finishes appear quite frequently. One of the most common is chamfering, a 45-degree
bevel that runs along the edge of components like plates
and bridges. The smooth edge is polished to a high sheen,
like the facet of a diamond. Greubel Forsey presents superb examples of this technique in many of its timepieces,
including bridges that have both sharp internal angles
and chamfered edges, a tricky combination that can only
be achieved by hand.
To give metal components a dynamic look, brands
often mix different surface treatments like perlage (a
pattern of overlapping circles) on mainplates, circular
graining on wheels, and côtes de Genève (undulating parallel line) on bridges. One of the most difficult finishes to
create is a type of mirror polishing called black polish,
which is so smooth that it appears black from certain
angles. The strike hammers found in Vacheron Constantin’s
Patrimony Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 offer a superlative
illustration of this rare technique.
Without a doubt, hand-finishing is the most timeconsuming and labor-intensive step in watch production.
In economic terms, it raises the price of a watch, but it
also increases its value. When it comes to finishing, you
get what you pay for.
Patrimony Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731
by Vacheron Constantin
13
ASK AN EXPERT
CELLINI JEWELERS
HOW OFTEN SHOULD I HAVE THE GASKETS IN MY WATCH CHECKED?
I
f you enjoy wearing your mechanical
watch in the water, it’s a good idea to
have the gaskets tested every year. I have
mine checked every spring so it’s ready for
the summer.
The reason I’m so cautious is that the
rubber and silicon O-rings that form a
seal around the crown stem and pushers
are the only things preventing water from
leaking into the case and harming the
movement. Anyone who’s ever had a watch
damaged by water can tell you that it’s expensive to repair. The good news is that
it’s preventable with regular check-ups.
ANYONE WHO’S EVER HAD
A WATCH DAMAGED BY
WATER CAN TELL YOU THAT
IT’S EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR.
THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT
IT’S PREVENTABLE WITH
REGULAR CHECK-UPS.
Over time, those rings break down
and become brittle, which decreases their
ability to form a seal tight enough to protect the movement from moisture. The
rings tend to degrade even faster when
they’re frequently exposed to salt water
and chlorinated water. To limit those
effects, rinse your watch off with fresh
water after every time you swim.
It’s also important to remember that
all water-resistant watches are not equal.
Each model is tested and rated by how
much water pressure it can safely withstand. To be considered a dive watch,
a timepiece must be certified to at least
100 meters (10 ATMs), which makes it
suitable for swimming and snorkeling in
shallow waters. However, if you want to
take your watch scuba diving, you’ll need
something that’s resistant to 300 meters
(30 ATMs).
Consider this: You would never dive
without checking your gear first. The same
is true for your watch. Before summer heats
up, make sure your watch is shipshape.
14
Marine Diver by
Ulysse Nardin
Royal Oak
Offshore Diver by
Audemars Piguet
DO MANUAL-WIND WATCHES HAVE ADVANTAGES OVER AUTOMATICS?
I
t all depends on your expectations. Are you
the type of person who looks forward to winding his watch every day, or someone who sees it
as a chore?
For people who enjoy the personal connection they get from winding their watch daily, a
manual movement is the natural choice. But for
those who value convenience above all else, it’s
hard to do better than a watch that can wind
itself. Even though most collectors have a preference, I wouldn’t say many are limited by it. In
fact, most own both kinds of movements.
Each style of movement excels at different
things. A manual model needs regular winding,
but typically costs less to service, and there is
no spinning rotor in the back to obscure the
view of the movement. On the other hand, an
automatic demands less attention, but it does
require additional moving parts that can
break down.
WHEN COMPARING MANUAL
AND AUTOMATIC WATCHES,
FIGURING OUT WHAT’S “BEST”
IS REALLY ABOUT FIGURING
OUT WHAT’S BEST FOR YOU.
Another interesting thing about automatics:
They not only let you avoid fiddling with the
crown on a regular basis, but they also wind
continuously, which can improve accuracy. When
you move your wrist throughout the day, it helps
ensure that a high level of energy is stored in the
mainspring. This goes a long way in helping the
movement maintain a steady timekeeping beat.
For instance, if you forget to wind your manual watch one morning, you may notice it running fast in the evening if the power reserve dips
below a level where the mainspring lacks sufficient tension to fully swing the balance wheel.
That won’t happen while wearing an automatic
so long as you move your wrist frequently. And
that’s an important distinction, because a lot of
today’s jobs are sedentary, and as a result, many
people don’t move enough at work to fully wind
their automatics.
When comparing manual and automatic
watches, figuring out what’s “best” is really
about figuring out what’s best for you.
Portugieser
Automatic 7-Day
Power Reserve
by IWC
Manual-wind
Endeavour
Perpetual
Calendar by
H. Moser & Cie.
15
ASK AN EXPERT
CELLINI JEWELERS
T
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WORLD TIME AND
DUAL TIME WATCHES? WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVORITES?
hey both share a similar purpose, which is to track
and display the time in another time zone. The difference is that a world timer displays multiple time zones
simultaneously, whereas a dual timer indicates just two
time zones.
For people who have business or personal connections around the globe, a world timer is a nice option
because it tells you quickly what time it is where they
are, so you can avoid doing the mental math to figure
it out.
Quite a few brands offer this handy complication,
and most take similar approaches by showing all 24
major time zones on the dial simultaneously. Many feature
a rotating ring numbered from 1 to 24. When the ring turns,
the numbers line up with a list of 24 cities to indicate the
hour in each location.
With all the information shown, world timer dials can
Saxonia Dual Time
by A. Lange & Söhne
16
look cluttered, which is why I really like the JaegerLeCoultre Master Geographic. Its clean design uses a
relatively small aperture to highlight a city and shows
the corresponding time on a nearby two-hand display.
It’s true you can’t see every city at once, but a secondary crown makes it easy to change the location.
On the other hand, dual time watches are less complicated and also less expensive. They’re extremely popular with frequent travelers because they show the local
time and your home time simultaneously.
Even though most brands offer a second time zone
watch, many use different ways to indicate the same information. For instance, some use an additional hand,
while others use a subsidiary dial or a rotating disc.
I like quite a few dual timers, but two standouts are the
Rolex Explorer II for a casual look, and the A. Lange
& Söhne Saxonia Dual Time for more formal occasions.
Master Geographic
by Jaeger-LeCoultre
Audemars Piguet – Ladies Royal Oak
Cartier – Ballon Bleu
Constant Escapement L.M.
by Girard-Perregaux
I
RM 030 by Richard Mille
WHY DOES MY WATCH RUN FASTER
WHEN THE POWER RESERVE IS LOW?
t may seem strange for your watch to speed up when
the power runs down, but it’s perfectly normal.
Let me explain. Energy released from the mainspring
causes the balance wheel to turn back and forth. That
oscillating motion is how a watch measures time. As a
rule, the steadier the rate of oscillation, the more accurate the timekeeping will be. However, the rate can fluctuate depending on how much power is stored in the
mainspring.
Typically, a watch’s rate is steadiest when the power
reserve is above 90 percent. When the energy level drops
below that point, it very slowly begins to lose the torque
needed to fully drive the balance wheel. This causes a
drop in amplitude, which is the number of degrees that
the balance wheel rotates each time it turns. When this
happens, the rotations become shorter and take less time
to complete. As a result, the rate increases, and your
watch speeds up.
To counteract this centuries-old phenomenon,
Girard-Perregaux introduced a constant force escapement in 2013. Featured in the Constant Escapement L.M.,
this groundbreaking mechanism is designed to deliver a
consistent level of energy to the balance and ensure
steady amplitude as the power reserve winds down.
Through the years, watchmakers have developed
other methods to deal with this issue. Richard Mille created a detachable clutch for the RM 030 that turns the
winding rotor on and off to keep the power reserve high
and avoid over winding. A. Lange & Söhne regulated the
mainspring energy in its Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour
le Mérite” with a fusée and chain system. The brand employs a more practical solution for its Lange 1. On paper,
the watch has a 72-hour power reserve. In reality, the
watch will continue to operate for almost another day.
But those extra hours are when the timekeeping rate is
most likely to fluctuate, so Lange only promises 72 hours.
To get the best performance from your mechanical
watch, it’s all about the power. ¨
17
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
RICH IN
TRADITION
BY JONATHAN BUES
A. Lange & Söhne defies
expectations with its first
decimal minute repeater.
A
champion of conservatively
styled haute horlogerie
for more than 20 years,
A. Lange & Söhne
eschews modern-day materials
like silicium, which the brand’s
CEO Wilhelm Schmid insists
has nothing to do with fine
watchmaking.
Instead, Lange’s innovations focus on more traditional areas, like patenting
an alloy called honey gold,
and creating a super-precise
moon phase mechanism. Most
recently, the brand unveiled
a version of the Zeitwerk
that combines its signature
jumping-hour display with a
minute repeater.
But of course, this being Lange,
the titular complication in the Zeitwerk
Minute Repeater isn’t a typical repeater
that chimes the hours, quarter-hours and
minutes. In its place is a decimal minute
repeater that chimes each number shown
on the digital display: hours, 10-minutes,
and minutes.
Presented in platinum, this watch is not
technically a limited edition, but only a
handful can be made every year.
The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater features the brand’s first
decimal repeater, which chimes numbers shown on the
digital display.
18
To update the classic Lange 1, a new
movement was added that features
a hairspring made in-house.
At 38.5mm, the Saxonia Dual Time is
slightly smaller now, but still retains
its second time zone function.
The Datograph Perpetual’s new dial
includes baton markers instead of
Roman numerals for a clean look.
BELIEVE THE HYPE
MAXIMUM IMPACT
Plenty of watches are touted as icons in marketing campaigns, but few really live
up to the hype. One that does is the Lange 1, a study in off-centered design harmony that became the photogenic face of A. Lange & Söhne. While permutations of
this model arrived over the years in the form of a world timer, a moon phase and
an automatic, the original Lange 1 remained untouched for two entire decades.
“We’ve gone t0hrough 20 years of experience,” says Schmid. “We can produce
things that we couldn’t in the early days, like the hairspring, the escapement and
so forth. We decided that the icon of the brand should have a movement that is
done as in-house as possible.”
In addition to an all-new movement — the brand’s 50th in-house caliber —
the new Lange 1 features a slimmer bezel and an ever-so-slightly modified font.
The company also unveiled some subtle aesthetic changes to its Saxonia line earlier this
year. One of the collection’s most popular and
useful models is the Saxonia Dual Time. Its
case diameter has been reduced from 40mm
to 38.5mm, making it the same size as the
Saxonia Automatic.
Another departure from the previous incarnation of the Dual Time is the dial design.
In a clear case of not wanting to tinker too
much with a classic, the changes are minimal, but still find a way to maximize the
legibility of the solid silver dial.
The incremental changes to the Dual
Time are indicative of Lange’s entire approach to watchmaking. While other brands
chase their tails following fads, Lange spends
its time refining ideas that have already
withstood the test of time. ¨
RADIANT BEAUTY
Many collectors consider the Datograph to be the best chronograph in production.
One highly complex execution, the Datograph Perpetual, is back with a new look.
This radiant version marries a white gold case with a gray dial and exchanges the Roman numerals of the erstwhile version for much sleeker baton markers.
The ingenious combination of its flyback chronograph and perpetual calendar
remains unchanged.
19
ARNOLD & SON
Instruments of
CHANGE
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
Arnold & Son infuses its heritage as a maker
of marine chronometers with a modern
respect for technology, craft and innovation.
C
apitalizing on the legacy of 18th century British
watchmaker John Arnold, the modern Arnold
& Son brand melds a reverence for tradition with
an ambitious philosophy of innovation
expressed with exclusive in-house designed,
d e ve l oped, manufactured and finished hautehorlogerie movements.
BEAUTY AND THE BEAT
The new DSTB (Dial Side True Beat) timepiece is
certainly guided by those principles. A tribute to the
marine chronometers produced by John Arnold and
his son, Roger, during the latter half of the 18th century,
this model features a true beat seconds complication.
But unlike most watches boasting this element, the
hands are not the only visible aspects of the complication. Also on display are its wheels, three true beat
seconds bridges (each treated in palladium) and an
anchor-shaped lever, a sly reference to Arnold’s maritime
accomplishments.
The elegant presentation is shown beneath a large clear
sapphire ring stationed at the 11 o’clock position. The hours and
minutes are displayed on a silvery opaline subdial located at
4 o’clock. The combination of the two overlapping indications
lends the ADLC-treated black dial plate a distinctive, threedimensional appearance. To ensure exclusivity, this model will be
produced in a limited edition of 250 pieces.
A NEW DIMENSION
Another member of the Instrument Collection is this new version of the
Time Pyramid Guilloché, which is presented in a 5N red gold case
decorated with a guilloché pattern. Named for the distinctive pyramidshaped architecture of the movement, the Time Pyramid draws inspiration from antique British skeleton clocks, not to mention the regulators
fashioned by John and Roger Arnold.
The Time Pyramid’s most prominent characteristic, however, is its
multidimensional depth, made possible by stacking the displays for the
hours, minutes and seconds on top of one another.
20
The 43.5mm stainless steel DSTB
shows off its true beat seconds
mechanism on the dial.
Presented in a 42mm palladium
case, this UTTE model comes
with a black lacquered and
silvery opaline dial.
The skeletonized movement inside
the Time Pyramid Guilloché comes
in a 44.6mm 5N red gold case.
SLIM AND SOPHISTICATED
Another stellar timepiece from the Instrument Collection is the UTTE, which
is an acronym for Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement. The beating heart of the
watch is an ultra-thin movement that was designed, developed and manufactured at the brand’s workshop in the Swiss town of La Chaux-de-Fonds.
With its multilevel structure, slim 8.34mm profile, spherical tourbillon
cage and 90-hour power reserve, the UTTE is one of the thinnest, most
elegant flying tourbillons on the market. This version features a palladium
case and is available in a limited edition of 50 pieces.
GOLD RUSH
Derived from mid-17th century table clocks, the Golden Wheel is the
first watch to combine a wandering hours function with a true beat
seconds complication.
Reading the time from its unique display is a special treat. Attached to
the “golden wheel” carrousel at the center of the dial are three clear sapphire
discs labeled with the numbers 1 to 12. When the center wheel rotates, the
current hour comes into view at the top of the dial in front of a mother-ofpearl arc. As the hour disc “wanders” across the arc, it doubles as a minute
indicator. Meanwhile, the central true beat hand pauses for each second,
instead of sweeping around the dial like most second hands. Arnold & Son
will make the Golden Wheel in a limited run of 125 pieces. ¨
The 44mm Golden Wheel is the
first watch to integrate a wandering hours display with a true beat
seconds function.
21
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Artist in
RESIDENCE
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
F
Audemars Piguet remains faithful to its longstanding classics,
but keeps things fresh by adding a dose of modern sophistication.
rom its headquarters in Le Brassus, in
the heart of Switzerland’s famed
Valleé de Joux, the prestigious
watchmaker Audemars Piguet has
cultivated a reputation for making both
highly coveted sport watches and horological works of art. Known for a legacy of fine craftsmanship dating to its
founding in 1875, and for its signature timepiece the Royal Oak,
Audemars resides at the top
of the haute horology pyramid,
where it shares rarefied
air with a mere handful of
Swiss brands.
SHAPING THE FUTURE
Twenty years ago, the brand
introduced the Millenary, a new
model encased in a graceful
oval case designed by Emmanuel
Gueit, the man who’d created the design of its popular Royal Oak Offshore
watch in 1993. Although the manufacture made oval-shaped watches for
men and women in the 1960s and 1970s,
those dramatic, often gem-set designs,
were not the source for Gueit’s inspiration.
With the debut of the Millenary,
Audemars Piguet signaled that it was ready to
experiment with a more contemporary aesthetic. After expanding the model to a larger,
22
more modern 45mm width in the early 2000s, the
Millenary collection became one of the brand’s
pillars and continues to win over admirers with
an open design that highlights the movement.
This year, Audemars has breathed new
life into its Ladies Millenary models with
editions that emphasize the watch’s feminine good looks, not to mention its new
hand-wound, in-house movement, the
caliber 5201. Specially created to
accommodate the watch’s oval
shape, the robust movement —
three years in the making —
places the brand’s exquisite
finishing and its carefully
constructed balance wheel
on prime display.
Combining time-tested artisanal
watchmaking techniques with contemporary design, the slim, elegant
Millenary models are crafted to mold
perfectly to the wrist. It’s available in a
rose gold case with an off-center motherof-pearl dial and 116 brilliant-cut diamonds
on the bezel and lugs. The model has a nearidentical twin sister (at left) encased in white
gold that’s offered on a beige alligator strap.
Two new Ladies Millenary editions — one in rose gold
and the other in white gold — emphasize the model’s
feminine curves.
A new hand-wound
movement powers the
Ladies Millenary.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
ROYAL CRUSH
This is not the first time Audemars
Piguet has dedicated its resources
to making watches for women. In
the late 19th century and early
years of the 20th century, the
brand made ladies’ models
that embodied the aesthetic ideals of the Art
Nouveau and Art Deco
movements. Exquisite
pendant watches for
women were in production by 1883 and
examples with minute
repeater mechanisms
were being crafted by
the early 1890s. In particular, a gold and translucent blue guilloché
enamel pendant repeater
made in 1894 helped lay
the foundation for well over
a century of women’s timepieces that meld technical
mastery and beautiful design.
Case in point: The new
Ladies Royal Oak Quartz. To fully
appreciate the heritage of this chic
ladies timepiece, we must travel back
in time to 1972, the year that the legendary Swiss designer Gerald Genta
shattered expectations when he delivered
the groundbreaking Royal Oak model in
stainless steel, representing the first time a luxury watch was
rendered in such a workaday material — on an integrated
bracelet, no less. Four years later, in 1976, the Royal Oak
spawned its first ladies rendition.
Ever since, the Royal Oak has served as the ideal dayto-night timepiece for women on the go. Slim and subtle, with
a sleek, brushed-steel finish, the model nevertheless exudes a
raw energy derived from its illustrious reputation as a luxury
sports watch.
For the first time, Audemars Piguet now presents the model in a
combination of stainless steel and rose gold. The octagonal bezel that
separates the Royal Oak from its contemporaries remains the same as the
original, an unmistakable reminder of the watch’s exceptional lineage. So are
the eight screws that adorn the bezel. What sets this model apart, besides
its petite 33mm diameter and its diamond-set bezel, is its sophisticated
two-tone palette.
CHIC COMBO
The same refined pairing of stainless steel and rose gold distinguishes the
new 41mm Selfwinding Royal Oak. Much like its petite, diamond-set ladies
counterpart, this men’s piece retains the spirit of the original 1972 Royal Oak,
but adds a dash of warmth with accents of contemporary color.
24
Left: The Ladies Royal Oak Quartz
retains the octagonal bezel and screws
of the original 1972 Royal Oak.
Below: The Royal Oak appears for the
first time in a chic combination of
stainless steel and rose gold.
The silver-toned dial is noteworthy for its “Grande Tapisserie”
weaving pattern, created by vintage guillochage machines at the
Audemars Piguet manufacture that perform the artisanal technique
of decorative engraving to bring the dial’s geometric pattern into
stark relief. Rose gold applied hour markers and Royal Oak hands
with luminescent coating provide the elegant finishing touches.
The Royal Oak is best known for its pared-down elegance.
Thanks to this new version, however, it also now boasts
a distinctive unisex appeal that continues the evolution of a watchmaking classic.
DIVE HARD
Speaking of watchmaking classics, the Royal Oak Offshore — designed 22 years ago by Gueit — has, by now,
earned its place in the watchmaking hall of fame, right
alongside the slimmer, more discreet Royal Oak.
Now the rugged, sporty collection welcomes the
Royal Oak Offshore Diver into its midst. Genta once
said that his design of the Royal Oak was inspired by a
memory from his youth: the preparation of deep-sea
diver equipment that bore visible nuts and joints. He
studded the watch’s signature octagonal bezel with
screws to evoke that look. So it stands to reason that this
year, the Royal Oak Offshore has spawned an elegant diver’s
model in a 42mm stainless steel case that is water resistant to
300 meters.
Water-resistant to 300 meters, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver’s
steel case has a sapphire crystal on the back that lets you see the
engraved rotor turn as it fuels the movement’s 60-hour reserve.
Offered on a black rubber strap, the self-winding timepiece
features all the trademark elements required by divers: dive-time
measurement functionality, a rotating inner bezel with diving scale
and black rubber-clad screw-down crowns. But the model has much
to recommend it aesthetically, including a black or silver-toned dial
with “Méga Tapisserie” pattern, applied hour markers and Royal Oak
hands with luminescent coating.
For a brand steeped in 140 years of history, Audemars Piguet has
resisted the urge to rest on its past achievements. From the renewed
look and feel of its Royal Oak, now available in a chic stainless steeland-rose gold combination, to the graceful, feminine appearance of
its new Ladies Millenary models, the brand from Le Brassus continues to earn its place in watchmaking history. ¨
25
BELL & ROSS
Living
on the
EDGE
BY SCOTT HICKEY
Aeronautic innovation drives
the expansion of Bell & Ross’
cutting-edge BR-X1 collection.
W
hen the first BR-X1 was
introduced in 2014, it
promised to push horological boundaries by
adapting advanced technology and
production techniques to watchmaking.
It’s a logical purpose for a timepiece
that takes part of its name from the
Bell-X1, the first aircraft to break the
sound barrier in 1947.
The latest addition to the collection is the BR-X1 Carbone Forgé.
Like the first BR-X1, this version is
equipped with a 30-minute chronograph controlled by two rocker-style
buttons. What’s new is the 45mm case,
which is now made of forged carbon,
a material with an outstanding
strength-to-weight ratio that’s used
frequently in the construction of
high-performance aircraft.
BONE-IFIED BEAUTY
The automatic movement inside this rugged
case has been skeletonized extensively with the
upper bridge made into the shape of an X, a reference to the watch’s name. A clear, gray-tinted
sapphire crystal is used instead of a solid dial to
ensure a good view of the caliber and the revolving
numeric ring that displays the date in the window at
6 o’clock.
Bell & Ross will limit production of the BR-X1
Carbone Forgé to 250 pieces for the world.
The BR-X1 Carbone Forgé’s 45mm case is made of forged carbon,
a strong and lightweight material used to make aircraft.
26
GRAPHIC ART
With its square, 42mm case and clear, graphic display, the BR-03
looks as though it was lifted directly from an aircraft’s instrument
panel.
To foster an even deeper connection to the aeronautic world,
Bell & Ross recently began producing cases made of ceramic, a
hard-wearing space-age material that is lightweight, extremely durable, virtually scratchproof, and never fades. Beyond its technical
merits, ceramic also can be used to create a wide range of styles, an
attribute it shows off to great effect in two exemplary chronographs.
First is the BR-03 Black Matte. The muted finish responsible for
the case’s understated appeal extends to the monochromatic dial,
which balances displays for the small seconds, chronograph,
tachymeter and date.
Next is the BR-03 Heritage Ceramic. The natural color of the
hand-stitched, calfskin strap matches the hue used for the hands
and markers. That rich caramel color evokes the fine patina found on
the dials of vintage timepieces coveted by collectors.
Below: The BR-03 Black Matte’s muted finish amplifies
the visual impact of the bright white dial markings.
SMOKIN’ HOT
While the previous models epitomize modern aviation, the WW1 Edición Limitada
finds inspiration in the past. For instance, the case’s thin lugs are made to look
like the wires that World War I aviators soldered onto their pocket watches so
they could secure them while flying and use them to navigate.
The style may be vintage, but the movement is unequivocally modern. The
WW1 Edición Limitada has a double winding barrel that stores up to five days
of reserve power. Should you forget, an indicator on the dial provides a helpful
reminder for when it’s time to wind the watch again.
Not only is the rich shade of brown of the dial meant to evoke the color of the
tobacco leaves used to make cigars, the limited edition (99 pieces) also comes in a
presentation case that doubles as a humidor.
From vintage style to cutting-edge innovation, Bell & Ross once again proves that its
reputation as an aviation-watch specialist is well deserved. ¨
Middle: The gorgeous patina on the dial provides a perfect complement to the BR-03 Heritage
Ceramic’s natural calfskin strap.
Right: Inspired by the color of tobacco leaves, the WW1 Edición Limitada’s dial opens up to reveal
the manually wound movement’s balance wheel.
27
CARTIER
The Rotonde de Cartier Grande
Complication’s automatic movement
includes a minute repeater, perpetual
calendar and flying tourbillon.
Grand
DESIGNS
BY SCOTT HICKEY
I
Cartier tops itself with a grand complication that’s as elegant as it is intricate.
t’s simply the maison’s most complex watch,
ever. Master craftsmen working at the
peak of their powers need more than
three months to complete this
578-piece feat of horological derring-do.
The result is the Rotonde de Cartier
Grande Complication, an undeniably
gorgeous watch with a minute repeater,
perpetual calendar, and flying tourbillon.
There is another feature, but
one best appreciated on the wrist.
The movement’s extra-thin design
(5.49mm) sets the profile of
the platinum case at a
comfortable 11mm. By
comparison, that’s only
slightly thicker than the
Calibre de Cartier Diver.
It takes 15 weeks total to
produce one watch: 10 weeks to
decorate and finish the movement
components and another five to
assemble them. It’s clearly time well
spent.
In the capable and steady hands of
Cartier’s decorative artists, the movement
becomes a joyful expression of traditional
craftsmanship. But it’s about more than
just mirror polishing a screw head. It’s
also about knowing how to mix light and
shadow in a way that leads the eye
around the dial.
In the Grande Complication,
the careful juxtaposition of different metal finishes provides the
foundation for its dynamic design. Contrasts abound, starting
with the polished platinum
bezel around the brushed
minute circle. Likewise, the
repeater’s twin hammers
shine like mirrors as the
brushed frame used for
the calendar displays
emits a soft glow. A
bevy of blued-steel
hands circle above the
swirling perlage and
spinning gears below.
There’s even an
opening near the top
where you can see the
platinum micro-rotor
turn as it automatically
winds caliber 9406 MC.
Assembled in Geneva at Cartier’s
Fine Watchmaking workshop,
this special movement has earned
the prestigious Geneva Seal for
its outstanding craftsmanship
and performance.
It takes 15 weeks to decorate and assemble the Rotonde de Cartier
Grande Complication at Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking workshop in Geneva.
29
CARTIER
CLEAR ADVANTAGE
A high-complication watch like this is perfectly
suited to precious metals, but lately the Astrotourbillon has become a showcase for advanced
materials like carbon crystal. Cartier first used this
extremely hard material in 2009 as part of the
maison’s first concept watch, the ID One.
The experiment convinced Cartier of carbon
crystal’s ability to extend a movement’s longevity by
reducing friction and eliminating the need for lubrication. In 2012, this high-performance material
made its commercial debut as part of the Astrotourbillon Carbon Crystal. The Rotonde de Cartier
Astrotourbillon Skeleton marks its latest appearance.
The transparency of the crystal carbon pallet
fork and escape wheel underscores the airy arrangement of the skeleton movement. The plates and bridges
have been carved down to the bare minimum, leaving
behind metal in the shape of XII and VI. But this
sculptural invocation of Cartier’s familiar Roman
numeral motif goes deeper than aesthetics. It’s also
the base of support for the entire movement, a handwound caliber produced exclusively by Cartier.
The white gold Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon Skeleton is part of a limited
edition series of 100 pieces. The first rose gold version of the watch (piece #1)
will be available exclusively at Cellini’s boutique in the Waldorf Astoria Hotel.
HEAVENLY BODIES
After its 2010 introduction, the Astrotourbillon rose to play a starring
role in the Fine Watchmaking Collection, earning approbation and
envy among enthusiasts for its unconventional orbiting tourbillon.
Like most tourbillon watches, the Astrotourbillon uses constant
motion as a means to counteract gravity’s deteriorating effect on the
escapement’s timekeeping rate. Unlike most, however, the escapement
in the Astrotourbillon rotates around the center of the dial instead of
around its own axis, as it does in a traditional tourbillon cage. The
Astrotourbillon mechanism — perched at the end of an elongated
cage — circles the dial every minute, replacing the seconds hand with
something infinitely more interesting.
30
EXPLORING THE MYSTERY
More than a century after Louis Cartier created the first mystery clock,
his design has proven to be a fertile source of inspiration for generations of Cartier designers who have elevated the mystery clock’s legacy
with their ornate and imaginative interpretations.
The mystery took an unexpected turn recently when the company
introduced a wristwatch version. At the same time, it also unveiled a
high-complication model called the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious
Double Tourbillon.
At first glance, it’s difficult to tell that there really are two tourbillons at work here. The first is easily spotted and appears to float on
a transparent disc in the dial opening.
The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Double Tourbillon uses two tourbillons to
help it achieve a steady timekeeping rate. Two crystal disc stacked on top of one
another inside the dial opening are the secret to the watch’s mysterious design.
To understand how the second tourbillon
works, you must first unlock the mystery clock’s
secret. There are actually two sapphire crystal
discs stacked on top of one another in the dial
opening. As the mainspring unwinds, it releases
energy that turns the lower disc. As a result, this
slowly rotates the upper disc in the opposite direction once every five minutes. This additional
rotation further helps counteract gravity’s pull
on the sensitive escapement components.
While it’s possible to overlook the second
tourbillon, it’s difficult to miss the Cartier design
codes on display here, from the blued-steel
sword-shaped hands, to the Roman numerals
that are stretched and squeezed to form the
openwork hour ring.
The Mysterious Double Tourbillon is equipped
with a hand-wound movement that is made
entirely in-house by Cartier. It’s earned the
prestigious Geneva Seal, and the certification’s
hallmark is engraved into the metal, which can
be viewed through the clear caseback. The watch
comes in a 45mm case made of either platinum or
rose gold.
31
CARTIER
SHAPING THE FUTURE
Cartier’s reputation as a sculptor of shaped cases can be traced back to its
founder, Louis-François Cartier. A jeweler by trade, he possessed a unique appreciation for the roles that shape and proportion play in transforming the ordinary
into something extraordinary.
His discerning taste and unfailing instincts were the original source of
Cartier’s legendary style, but his work also helped influence watch design standards still recognized today. During its first 10 years alone, Cartier introduced
cases shaped like a square, barrel (tonneau), and
turtle shell (tortue). The ensuing years gave rise
to even more instantly recognizable designs,
including the playfully twisted Crash and wildly
popular Ballon Bleu.
Cartier begins a new chapter with the
introduction of the Clé de Cartier collection for men and women. Instead of a
single shape, the maison has crafted
an exciting new hybrid that looks as
though a round case is melting into
a cushion case.
Clé, which is French for key, is
not just a name. It also unlocks the
design elements that connect all
the watches in the collection. Look
closely at the center of the dial: the
guilloché decoration and date display come together in the shape of a
keyhole. The rectangular crown, too,
exhibits key-like qualities. It’s not only
shaped like a key used to wind a clock, it
also clicks softly when the crown is turned,
like a grandfather clock.
Like many Cartier watches, the Clé features
a blue sapphire set into the crown. But this gem
is different because it features an arch cut,
which is a new cut created by Cartier for the
Clé. In fact, the cut is so different that it’s been
submitted for patent consideration.
PRIDE AND PERFORMANCE
But the Clé’s appeal runs deeper than its design. It also possesses a strong
mechanical pedigree thanks to 1847 MC, the automatic movement Cartier developed especially for this collection at its manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. To
express its understandable pride in this accomplishment, Cartier named the
movement for the year Louis Cartier established the maison in Paris.
The automatic-winding mechanism is extremely efficient at converting the
owner’s actions into energy stored in the mainspring. This is an important
advantage because many watchmakers say that keeping the power reserve close
to full helps maintain a steady timekeeping beat that ensures the balance wheel
has enough power to fully oscillate.
Turn the watch over to enjoy a revealing view of the movement through the
clear caseback. As you would expect from Cartier’s exceptional artisans, the
plate and bridges are finished meticulously by hand. What’s especially interesting here is the vagues de Genève pattern on the winding rotor. Similar to the
undulating stripes of its well-known cousin côtes de Genève, vagues de Genève
has a more textured look thanks to the curling wave pattern cut into the metal.
32
Above: The largest model in the Clé de
Cartier collection has a 42mm case that
comes in either rose or white gold on an
alligator leather strap.
Below: The dynamic juxtaposition of the
côte de Genève pattern on the movement
and the vagues de Genève on the winding
rotor is displayed through the exhibition
caseback.
The Clé’s rectangular crown is set with
an arch-cut sapphire, a new cut that
Cartier created especially for this
collection. The 42mm case is available
with a matching bracelet in rose or
white gold, as well as a yellow-gold
version offered exclusively on bracelet.
33
CARTIER
The Clé de Cartier collection
includes an extensive selection of
strap and bracelet models available
in both 35mm and 31mm cases.
Highlights include (from top left)
white and rose gold models with
diamond-set bezels, a full-pavé
version, as well as a 40mm model
(at bottom) with two rows of
diamonds on the bezel.
LUXURY OF CHOICE
There is no shortage of options with the Clé collection. For men,
there is a 40mm version in either white or rose gold that comes on
an alligator leather strap. The same cases are offered on matching
bracelets as well, in addition to a yellow-gold version that’s only
available on a bracelet. For those who want diamonds, white brilliants can be added to the bezel of any 40mm model.
Women who prefer a smaller case size can select between
35mm and 31mm options. Similar to the men’s models, rose and
white versions come on strap or bracelet. Likewise, there are
34
also yellow-gold versions available exclusively on matching
bracelets. All of the women’s models come with diamond
bezels, and there is even a dazzling full-pavé
pavé version offered in
the 35mm white gold case.
With the Clé, Cartier re-imagines the ubiquitous round
watch to create something new. With its well-defined lines,
balanced proportions and comfortable curved case, the Clé
is poised take its place alongside the main pillars of the
Cartier collection.
SPIRIT ANIMAL
Watch brands that excel at mechanical ingenuity
and aesthetic refinement are rare. But even
among that select group, few can match Cartier’s
daring creativity. Even more impressive is the
pace set by the maison.
In 2015 alone, the craftsmen at Cartier’s
Maison des Métiers d’Art introduced a
watch with a vibrating-diamond dial,
and also revived ancient arts like
filigree, mosaic and damascened
inlay to conjure fantastic incarnations of Cartier’s spirit animal: the panther. Along with
those limited editions, the
company also unveiled a new
jewelry watch for women
called Rêves de Panthère.
Using the Rotonde de
Cartier Day and Night as its
muse, the Rêves de Panthère
transforms the rotating dial
into a poetic expression of
time’s passing. At 6 a.m., the
sun rises into view to begin
its 12-hour journey across the
dial. As it travels 180 degrees,
the sun indicates the hour using
the Roman numerals and diamonds
markers that alternate along the edge
of the display.
Nearby, three of Cartier’s favorite felines
enjoy a great view as they sit in a field of more
than 270 diamonds. Like the lower half of the
dial, the 42mm white gold case is covered
with hundreds of white brilliants. Diamonds
set on the ends of each lug add a crowning
touch of artistry to this exceptional display of
gem-setting prowess.
The look — much like the brand — is absolutely
timeless. ¨
A trio of panthers enjoys
the show as the sun and
moon make their daily
trips across the dial of
the Rêves de Panthère.
CHOPARD
The Mille Miglia GTS Power Control is the latest watch
from Chopard to commemorate this historic race.
HEARTS
ACCELERATING
BY JAMES LAMDIN
If high-octane or high-jewelry watches thrill you, Chopard has the perfect
timepieces to measure your moments of glory.
S
ome luxury timepiece brands have a
singular vision and focus — an obvious
direction and a signature design that
encapsulates the entirety of their
raison d’etre. This is one critique you simply
cannot apply to Chopard.
More than perhaps any other luxury
brand, Chopard has the incredible versatility
to be more than just one thing. While others
are content to let a single collection define
them, Chopard steps into a much larger world
by offering an impressive range of manufacture timepieces in a variety of styles suited for
every situation.
The result is a well-rounded and thoughtful (not to mention beautifully designed) selection of fine timepieces that look at home
anywhere — from a blacktop racetrack to a
black tie gala, and everywhere in between.
PERFORMANCE ART
If you say the words “Mille Miglia” around a
car guy, two things will undoubtedly spring
forth in their mind.
The first is the legendary auto race from
Brescia to Rome and back that was held
between 1927-57. The Mille Miglia — which
literally means 1,000 miles — set the standard
for competitive European road racing, both
pre- and post-war, before it was shut down for
being too dangerous to competitors and spectators alike. The race returned in 1977, this
time specifically for classic sports cars.
The second meaning comes in the form of
a wristwatch — or rather a collection of wristwatches made by Chopard. Introduced in 1988,
the Mille Miglia collection has a special place
in the hearts of car enthusiasts worldwide.
These watches are easily distinguishable from
other automotive-inspired timepieces by the iconic
“1000 Miglia” red arrow insignia emblazoned on
their dials.
Chopard’s connection to motorsports, and in
particular the Mille Miglia, goes much deeper than
the licensing agreements more commonly found
with other “racing-inspired” timepieces. Indeed,
Chopard is not only the Official Timekeeper of the
annual race, but it enters several cars of its own
as well.
UNLEASHING THE POWER
One of the latest timepieces to join this iconic collection is the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control, a
brilliant new three-hander perfect for enthusiasts
of both manufacture timepieces and motorsport.
The Power Control is among the first Mille Miglia
models to feature an in-house movement crafted at
Chopard’s workshops in Fleurier. Its manufacture
movement was designed and developed to the
highest standards of precision timekeeping and
carries a chronometer certification by COSC.
Likewise, the GTS Power Control is precisioncrafted. With a 43mm case available in steel or rose
gold, the GTS strikes a perfect balance between
classic design and a crisp contemporary feel,
augmented with a decidedly automotive vibe.
Both versions feature black dials with luminous hour markers, red and white chapter rings,
and bold Arabic numerals at 12 and 6. The power
reserve indicator sits on the left side of the dial,
and is styled as a fuel gauge. With finishing touches such as a red central sweep seconds hand and
Chopard’s signature “tire tread” rubber strap, no
detail went overlooked in making the Power Control
one of the best pieces in the history of the Mille
Miglia collection.
37
CHOPARD
Another new addition to the Superfast family
arose from Chopard’s partnership with Porsche
Motorsport as the group’s Official Timing Partner.
That association inspired the creation of the
Superfast Chrono Porsche 919 Edition.
Named after Porsche’s Le Mans-winning Hybrid
Prototype Racer, this 45mm stainless steel timepiece
is definitely at home at the race track. It’s equipped
with a chronometer-certified movement that includes a flyback chronograph complication perfect
for timing laps. Like its namesake, the Superfast
Chrono Porsche 919 Edition is a leader in its class,
and a winner through and through.
Below: Production of the Superfast Chrono Porsche 919
Edition is limited to 919 pieces.
Above: An automatic chronograph movement made
exclusively by Chopard powers the Superfast Chrono.
SPEED MEETS STYLE
If your tastes run more to contemporary motorsports,
you’d do well to consider Chopard’s new Superfast
Chrono. It combines the brand’s respect for traditional motorsports with a modern-day flair, exhibiting Chopard’s true understanding of all things automotive. Like the GTS Power Control, the Superfast
Chrono is powered by a manufacture-made automatic
chronograph movement.
Available in a 45mm stainless steel case, it
boasts bold luminescent hour markers, rubber-coated
pushers, and a graduated tachymeter bezel that can
be used to determine a car’s average speed over a
known distance. All of these details combine to set
the sporty tone for a chronograph that was built
from the ground up for speed!
38
FINER THINGS
Men with motoring lifestyles aren’t the only beneficiaries of
Chopard’s attention to detail and excellence in design. Highlights
for women include the lovely Imperiale.
It has an elegantly finished 36mm stainless steel case that
features a matching bracelet, a diamond-set bezel and cabochonset lugs. This charming design — with its signature quilted-pattern
dial — manages to be at once eye-catching and discreet, the
perfect accessory for work and play alike.
Left: Powered by a
quartz movement,
the Imperiale’s 36mm
steel or rose gold case
includes a diamondset bezel.
Equally entrancing is the Happy Sport Medium
Automatic, a crowd-pleasing model from one of the
brand’s most recognizable collections.
It features seven of Chopard’s trademark bezel-set
diamonds, which dance across the silver-toned guilloché
dial and its rose-gold hour markers. The scintillating look
closely matches the 36mm case, which is made from rose
gold and features a diamond-set bezel.
Moving the wrist not only engages the diamond’s
beautiful ballet, but it also winds the watch’s automatic
movement. Decorated exquisitely according to Swiss tradition, the movement is endowed with a 42-hour power
reserve. The sophisticated mechanical elements combined
with the fine decoration elevate the Happy Sport to a
whole new level of desirability.
When all is said and done, Chopard’s greatest appeal
is its enduring ability to offer watch lovers the best of
both worlds — functional style and luxurious design.
From roaring engines at the track, to quiet cocktails with
a special someone, Chopard has the appropriate wrist
wear for every occasion. ¨
Left: Diamonds streak like shooting stars across the Happy
Sport Medium Automatic’s guilloché dial.
39
CLERC
A New
BREED
BY JASON HEATON
CLERC’s dynamic Hydroscaph
dive watches are
like nothing else
in the ocean.
T
A 24-hour subdial serves as the Hydroscaph GMT
Power Reserve Chronometer’s second time zone display.
40
he 140-year old Geneva-based
company manages to break
free of 65 years of dive watch
convention to create a whole
new breed of sea creature with its
collection of thoroughly modern
Hydroscaph dive watches.
First and foremost, a dive watch
is designed to do a few simple tasks:
track elapsed time legibly, and
function reliably at great depths. All
the watches in the Hydroscaph collection accomplish the first half of
the equation through the use of an
innovative rotating bezel, which
stands apart from others in the
crowded dive watch field. When the
secondary crown on the side of the
case is unlocked and turned, it rotates the bezel counter-clockwise to
align with the minute hand. When
the crown is locked, there is no way
the bezel can be moved accidentally,
ensuring that the elapsed dive time
is displayed accurately.
For deep dives, the Hydroscaph GMT Power Reserve
Chronometer boasts a crushing 800 meters of water resistance. If you’re keeping score, that’s equal to a water pressure
of nearly 1,200 pounds per square inch. For serious divers,
a gas release valve is built into the case and allows trapped
helium atoms to escape the watch during decompression
should it be worn inside a pressurized diving bell.
Divers are often frequent travelers as well, and the GMT
Power Reserve Chronometer is designed to accommodate them
with a dual-time function that has an easy-to-set corrector on
the side of the case. The dial design is nicely balanced with the
power reserve arc at the top offset by the 24-hour second time
zone display at the bottom. And if you’re looking for aesthetic
variety, CLERC delivers, offering a number of different color
schemes, including this steel version paired with a midnight
blue dial.
Inside, the watch’s automatic movement is regulated to a
high enough level of accuracy that it’s been certified by C.O.S.C.
as a chronometer. Dual sapphire crystal portholes on the back
of the robust case offer a peek at the movement in action.
The blue elements of this Hydroscaph H1 chronometer are a
reminder of the depths for which the watch was designed.
GETTING DEEP
This Hydroscaph Central Chronograph combines black DLC
with bright orange accents to create a distinctive look.
The Hydroscaph H1 chronometer’s water resistance comes
courtesy of the watch’s 81-piece sculpted case, which includes
side reinforcements and a construction that gives it a 500-meter
depth rating that keeps the chronometer-grade movement
inside high and dry. Hinged mobile lugs adjust for a perfect fit
on the wrist even when it’s worn over a diving suit.
The Hydroscaph Central Chronograph can also survive
a half-kilometer dunk in the deep even while adding the
innovative, hinged push-pieces that start, stop and reset the
chronograph. The central minute sweep hand is easy to read, an
important feature when tracking decompression times underwater. Much like the GMT, the Chronometer and Chronograph
models both come in a variety of color combinations, including
this black DLC-coated Chronograph on a striking orange
rubber strap.
The Hydroscaph family from CLERC is evidence that evolution
doesn’t always require coming out of the sea, but sometimes
going back into it. ¨
41
DE BETHUNE
Where ART and
TIMEKEEPING Meet
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
T
In De Bethune’s avant-garde
timepieces, art, science, history and
culture all play a starring role.
he question of whether a timepiece can be considered a piece of art has
become something of a preoccupation for people in the luxury watch
industry. But for David Zanetta, a passionate collector of art and timepieces,
and fourth-generation watchmaker Denis Flageollet, there is no doubt that
De Bethune, the watch brand they founded in 2002, creates horological wonders worthy of
the contemporary art label.
By the same token, a respect for scientific progress — and the great watchmaking minds
of the 18th century who embodied it — permeates everything they do. Little wonder,
then, that De Bethune occupies a rich four-way intersection where art, science,
history and culture collide.
SEEING STARS
Exhibit A: The new DB25T Zodiac, a handsome 44mm white
gold timepiece that takes its inspiration from horology’s
evolution through the centuries: from the grand tower clocks
located at the center of so many European cities, to the table
clocks, grandfather clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches
that those imposing towers spawned. The references to horological culture are most evident in the miniaturization work
that distinguishes the watch, both inside and out.
On its surface, the DB25T is an ode to the 12 signs of the
zodiac, and, in a larger sense, to watchmaking’s long-standing
fascination with the cosmos, beautifully expressed in the model’s
light, airy aesthetic. A polished and blued titanium sky studded with solid
white gold stars forms the backdrop to the signs, each hand-engraved out of solid
gold by the artist Michèle Rothen. From the center of the dial radiates a shimmering
pattern of silver-toned guilloché work whose chief effect is to throw light against the
polished yellow-gold hands and finely grained rings on the dial.
The high-frequency mechanism that drives the movement is De Bethune’s answer
to the historical regulator clocks of the brand’s horological forbears. The central
seconds hand is supported by a deltoid-shaped bridge adorned with the “Côtes
De Bethune” motif, while a double lever with four pallets controls the double
gold wheel of the jumping seconds display.
Remarkably, the DB25T Zodiac also boasts an ultra-light silicontitanium tourbillon that makes one rotation every 30 seconds. It’s
visible only through the back of the watch, as a gesture to the
intimate pleasure such a private performance provides.
42
The DB25T Zodiac’s 44mm
white gold case houses
De Bethune’s hand-wound
tourbillon movement with
a deltoid-shaped bridge.
The guilloché center of the DB25T Zodiac’s dial is surrounded by 12 engraved
signs of the zodiac. Production is limited to just 20 pieces worldwide.
DE BETHUNE
HEADS OR TAILS
On the other hand, the presentation on the
dial of the DB25 Quetzalcoatl is anything but
subtle. A feathered serpent evoking the chief
divinity of Mesoamerican civilizations, Quetzalcoatl, appears coiled in the center of the dial. Its
head indicates the hours, while its tail indicates the
minutes. De Bethune capitalizes on this powerful symbol for good reason: The feathered snake was thought
to have invented the calendar, to govern the cycle of
time and to serve as the sovereign protector of goldsmiths and artisans.
That may explain the exquisite engraving work on
the solid gold dial. Yet another Michèle Rothen special, it
calls to mind the ruins of the Aztec Templo Mayor from
the ancient city of Tenochtitlan, upon whose foundation
rests modern-day Mexico City. A signature of De Bethune’s
artistry is the way light bounces off the dial, which features both
radiant and matte finishes.
The sleekly decorated, hand-wound mechanical movement
that operates beneath the resplendent Quetzalcoatl, represents
artistry in a different realm.
If it’s originality and cultural authenticity collectors are
seeking, the remarkable DB25 Quetzalcoatl ticks all the boxes. An
homage to timekeepers both ancient and contemporary, the watch
employs cutting-edge horological techniques while making clear
its respect for age-old methods of timekeeping and artisanry.
44
Unique to the core, the
DB25 Quetzalcoatl pays
homage to the legendary
deity of Mesoamerican
civilization. The coiled
serpent uses its head to
indicate the hours and
its tail for the minutes.
MADE TO MEASURE
With the DB28 Maxichrono Titanium, De Bethune ventures into more
scientific territory in a quest to create a chronograph distinguished by
accuracy and legibility. Even with five central dial hands, the Maxichrono is eminently readable. Openworked, blued-steel indicators
show the present time. And when the chronograph is engaged, the
slender rose gold hand marks the minutes as blued steel hands
count the seconds and hours.
The style of numbering on the dial may take inspiration from
classic marine chronometers, but the watch also boasts numerous
contemporary twists. The single pusher at 12 o’clock; a patented
lug system that adapts to the wearer’s wrist; and the handpolished titanium case are all evidence of the Maxichrono’s
modern design.
Not to mention its sophisticated hand-wound movement and
its patented absolute clutch system. Designed to measure long
periods of time — up to 23 hours, 59 minutes and 59 seconds — the
watch features a 24-hour concentric display whose elegance is
matched only by its utility.
The DB28 Maxichrono’s advanced chronograph
features a patented clutch system.
EXTREME ENGINEERING
The avant-garde looking DB28 GS comes in a 44mm case
fashioned from hand-polished and smoothed-down
grade 5 titanium.
On the outside, the DB28 GS embodies all the attributes De Bethune
has come to represent. It feels good on the wrist, owing to its light
titanium case, natural lightweight rubber strap and comfortable
floating lug system. It’s aesthetically pleasing, thanks to the delicate
handcrafted finishing it undergoes in a dedicated workshop in the
Swiss village of L’Auberson. There, specially trained artisans spend
hours decorating the bridges and mainplate of each movement, flatpolishing the deltoid shaped bridge and flame-bluing the hands according
to a time-tested technique. All of which is to say the DB28 GS is exceptionally luxurious.
It is the watch’s powerful movement, however, that affirms
De Bethune’s watchmaking mastery. Water resistant to a depth of 100
meters — equivalent to three leagues beneath the sea — the watch is
powered by DB2115, a caliber whose self-regulating twin barrel ensures
a six-day power reserve. A blue indicator positioned at 3 o’clock tracks
the remaining hours.
The silicon and titanium balance wheel, and the hairspring with flat
terminal curve, coupled with the triple pare-chute shock-absorbing
system that protects the movement make clear why the DB28 GS is the
ultimate expression of De Bethune’s technical expertise. ¨
45
COVER STORY
The astronomical clock tower in
Strasbourg Cathedral has awed
visitors for more than six centuries.
Building on
THE PAST
BY RACHEL YOUNG
E
verything and nothing has changed in the 663 years since the
astronomical clock tower inside Strasbourg Cathedral was first
unveiled to the people of Alsace, now part of modern-day France.
“It was on the cutting edge of timekeeping and astronomical
mapping at the time. And it’s still a marvel today,” says horological historian and clockmaker David Christianson.
Society has, of course, made innumerable strides in every imaginable
field since 1352, the year experts believe the original 59-foot-tall structure
was completed. One thing that hasn’t changed in more than six centuries,
however, is mankind’s insatiable hunger for information. And while determining the position of the moon or the date Easter falls on is now just a
Google search away, the citizens of 14th-century Strasbourg were able to
do the same thing with relatively little effort.
Indeed, all they had to do was consult the clock tower’s astrolabe, or
its series of ecclesiastical calendars, both of which still work today and
continue to inspire visitors to this great medieval cathedral.
Facing page: Believed to have been built in 1352 in Alsace, now part of
modern-day France, the cathedral’s 59-foot-tall clock tower has undergone two
reconstructions in its 663 years of existence.
The German writer Goethe once described the Cathedral
as a “sublimely towering, wide-spreading tree of God.”
47
COVER STORY
UNLOCKING THE UNIVERSE’S
SECRETS
At a towering 466 feet, Strasbourg Cathedral was the tallest building in the world from
1647 to 1874.
ARTISTRY MEETS ACCURACY
Another aspect of humanity reflected in
all three clock towers is mankind’s
evolving grasp of science over the course
of more than half a millennium.
For instance, the first and second
structures were adorned with astrolabes, instruments used to describe
the course of the sun and the moon. The
current structure, however, features an
even more impressive array of scientific
tools, including indicators for the
rising and setting of the sun, a planetary
dial and a mechanism for solar and
lunar equations.
In addition, the current clock tower
can determine the date of Easter using a
calculation developed in the early Middle
Ages called a computus. Remarkably, it
can also indicate leap years and equinoxes with near-perfect accuracy.
Possibly the timepiece’s most impressive feature, however, is a celestial
calendar based on Copernicus’ idea that
the universe is heliocentric. It precisely
indicates the then-known planets orbiting the sun: Mercury, Venus, Earth and
its Moon, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn. “It’s
like having a planetarium in front of
you,” Christianson says.
Art has always played a central role in the clock tower’s design, from the original to
the two reconstructed versions completed in the 16th and 19th centuries.
The first structure, which was crafted from forged iron and had rusted to the
point that it no longer worked by the early 1500s, is said to have featured a painted
figure of a zodiacal man who demonstrated the relationship between signs of the
zodiac and parts of the human body.
The second clock tower, which was
built in the mid-16th century by brothers
Isaac and Josias Habrecht, was decorated
with statuettes, painted scenes of ancient
deities and personifications of time. In
one such example, moving figures representing the stages of life — infancy, adulthood and old age — paraded in front of
a personification of death. Also crafted
from forged iron, this clock tower no
longer worked by the start of the French
Revolution in 1789.
The current clock tower, built in
1838 by mathematician Jean-Baptiste
Schwilgué, features an arched compartment containing entry and exit doors.
Within these doors are seven divinities
used to indicate the days of the week.
The figures, which include Venus and
Apollo, ride in chariots that move slowly
as they make their daylong journey. The
sophistication of the clock is a testament to Schwilgué’s mechanical genius
An arched compartment has entry and exit doors containing seven divinities, which ride in
and skill as a clockmaker.
chariots and are used to indicate the days of the week.
48
DIVINE INSPIRATION
Naturally, religion has also played an important role in each of the
clock tower’s incarnations.
The first structure, for example, featured a popular automaton
rooster that crowed each day at noon, reminding spectators of Peter’s
betrayal of Christ. During its day, the structure was often called the
“Clock of the Three Kings,” a nickname that no doubt stems from its
three automata Magi, who bowed to an infant Christ and Virgin Mary at
the strike of each hour.
“To perform these movements in such a fluid manner would have
required a tremendous amount of energy,” Christianson explains. “To
achieve this, the movement would have used falling weights through a
series of gears called a train.”
The second clock tower, built in the mid-1500s, featured a re-created
version of the automaton rooster, as well as an ecclesiastical calendar
to determine the dates of moveable religious feasts.
To maintain that strong religious connection in the current clock
tower, Schwilgué added a procession of figures representing the twelve
Apostles. When the clock strikes noon, these figures emerge from a door
on the right, then file past an image of Jesus Christ, who blesses them.
They then respectfully salute Christ before again disappearing.
Above: The clock tower features a planetary dial and
mechanism for solar and lunar equations. Its computus
can also determine the date of Easter.
TRACKING OUR PROGRESS
Looking back on its three incarnations, the astronomical clock tower
inside Strasbourg Cathedral has always been a symbol of mankind’s
continuously improving grasp of science, technology and philosophy.
But perhaps most important, it serves as a reminder of how
much, and yet how little, has changed when it comes to learning everything we can about the world — and even the universe — we live in. ¨
Moving figures representing the stages of life parade
beside a personification of death. Above him, a figure of
Christ blesses the Apostles.
49
GIRARD-PERREGAUX
Turn It UP
BY SCOTT HICKEY
Girard-Perregaux turns centuries
of tradition on its head with a new
minute repeater movement.
F
or the latest chapter in its long and
impressive history as an horological innovator, the Swiss manufacture re-engineers what is
possibly the most technically challenging watch complication to produce, the minute repeater.
Like similar models, GirardPerregaux’s Minute Repeater
Tourbillon with Gold Bridges
indicates the time audibly with
a series of high and low tones that
are sounded — on demand —
by tiny hammers striking two
wire gongs.
Rather than build on the past,
the brand opted to design an entirely new movement, one that features the hammers at the top of the
dial instead of the bottom. More than an
aesthetic consideration, designers selected
this new arrangement as part of an overall
push to optimize the volume of the repeater’s
acoustic performance. Those innovations even
extend to the sapphire crystal caseback, which
is curved slightly to better project the sound
from the gongs.
A delight to hear and see, the movement’s mechanical innovation is complemented by its dazzling design.
Without a dial to obstruct the view, many of the mechanism’s exquisitely decorated components are exposed,
offering an irresistible invitation to enjoy a closer look.
The eye naturally gravitates to the whirling tourbillon
near the bottom. It’s held in place by a gold bridge, a signature element of the brand’s design lexicon for more
than 130 years.
Girard-Perregaux will only produce 10 pieces of the
limited edition, rose gold Minute Repeater Tourbillon with
Gold Bridges.
50
The repeater hammers
echo the shape of the brand’s
signature bridges in the
Minute Repeater Tourbillon
with Gold Bridges.
YESTERDAY AND TODAY
The brand deftly straddles the line between watchmaking’s history and its future with two outstanding timepieces from its brilliant haute
horlogerie collection.
First is the Neo-Tourbillon with
Three Bridges. The manufacture’s iconic
triple-bridge architecture receives a contemporary re-design to create the
watch’s inimitable look. Gone are the
traditional gold bridges, replaced
instead by sandblasted-titanium
arches covered with black PVD
for an avant-garde look that
heightens the depth of the
sculptural design.
The watch’s 45mm titanium
case, which features a black DLCfinish, houses Girard-Perregaux’s
automatic movement. Turning
the crown rotates the skeletonized barrel located beneath
the top bridge and winds the
partially exposed mainspring, which stores approximately 60 hours of
reserve power.
Another watch at
the crossroads of tradition and innovation is
the Constant Escapement L.M. In mechanical
watchmaking, the timekeeping
rate often speeds up when the
mainspring winds down because
there isn’t enough energy to fully oscillate the balance wheel. Watchmakers could
only dream of overcoming this phenomenon until recently when Girard-Perregaux
unveiled its constant force escapement.
Positioned on the lower half of the
dial, the mechanism features a silicon
buckle-blade that’s six times thinner than a
human hair. Its clever design ensures a consistent amount of energy is always released to
the escapement, which helps stabilize the rate.
The Constant Escapement L.M., along with
these other two timepieces, neatly demonstrate how
adept the brand is at taking inspiration from the past
to create watches that could only be made today. ¨
Above: A modern incarnation of a brand icon,
the Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges features
PVD-treated bridges.
Right: The 48mm rose gold Constant Escapement L.M. is
equipped with a hand-wound movement made exclusively
by Girard-Perregaux.
51
GREUBEL FORSEY
Crystal Clear
VISION
BY SCOTT HICKEY
S
Greubel Forsey strikes a balance between engineering
and elegance with its latest tourbillon creation.
tephen Forsey, who founded the La Chaux-de-Fonds-based
atelier with Robert Greubel in 2004, says the new Tourbillon
24 Secondes Vision combines two equally strong personalities. “The display side is about refinement and exquisite
balance, while the movement side
shows off our distinctive architecture. That duality is by design.”
To achieve that mix of technical complexity and sophisticated
aesthetics, the brand set out
to create a timepiece that would
feature its thinnest case
(13.65mm), but still have enough
room for its signature inclined
24-second tourbillon. Easier
said than done, Forsey says.
“It was tricky, because the
tourbillon mechanism was
about 2.5mm too tall for
the case. So right away
we faced a very definite
equation.”
The solution, he says,
was inspired in part by the
asymmetrical shape of the GMT’s
case. “For that particular model,
we created extra volume laterally to
make room for the rotating globe. With
the Vision, we went in a different direction
and added a sapphire crystal dome on the back
that gives us volume outside the case in the
vertical plane.”
Because the dome rests on the wrist constantly, ergonomics were a
key concern. To ensure comfort, Forsey says various case designs were
tested even before the movement was constructed. “We figured out the
volume we would need to house the movement, and then made mockups of the case. We tried those out on people’s wrists to see how the
dome would perform under real-world conditions.”
In all, it took about four years for the Vision to become a reality.
RARE TALENT
From a distance, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision may
look as though it has a simple dial. But upon closer
inspection, you begin to see the details unfold and realize that the timepiece is really a showcase for the
atelier’s exceptional artisans, a group that’s extremely
passionate about maintaining and reviving traditional finishing methods.
Look no further than the champlevé enamel
used for the Arabic numerals. First, the numbers
are engraved into the pieces of the gold dial.
Then the hollows are filled with powdered
glass enamel and the dial is baked
repeatedly at approximately 900 degrees
Celsius. “It can sometimes take 12
firings in the oven to get to the level
of detail we’re looking for,” Forsey
explains.
That devotion to perfection
extends to the movement side as
well, where special attention has
been paid to the lower tourbillon
bridge. Unlike most tourbillon
bridges, which are flat, this one
is curved. “It was inspired by a
Romanesque vaulted arch,” Forsey
explains. “It’s a beautiful shape,
but very difficult to machine,
and even more challenging to
hand-finish.”
In fact, there are only two finishers
at the entire company who can work on these
bridges. “Few people in the world possess the ability to
do this kind of work, which is why each person signs the
bridges they finish. It’s a nice way to recognize their
talent and give them an opportunity to express pride in
their work.”
The Tourbillon 24 Seconds in white gold will be
strictly limited to a unique edition of 22 pieces.
It can take 12 hours to hand-finish the curved tourbillon bridge seen rotating inside the sapphire crystal dome.
52
The brand’s slimmest timepiece,
the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision,
exhibits a balanced aesthetic on the front
and advanced engineering on the back.
53
GREUBEL FORSEY
NIGHT AND DAY
One of the most recognizable pieces in the Greubel Forsey
collection has to be the GMT. Introduced in 2011, this extraordinary timepiece includes a second-time zone display and a rotating
globe on the front. On the back, there’s a rotating display that not
only indicates the time in 24 different cities simultaneously, but
also takes into account daylight savings time.
Without a doubt, the most striking feature is the rotating
globe on the dial. Beautiful and functional, the 13mm titanium
sphere serves as a 24-hour time zone display. It’s also a marvelously intuitive day/night indicator thanks to a crystal window
located on the side of the case that illuminates the globe where
the sun is shining.
Above:
The gorgeous
juxtaposition of
the platinum case
and rose gold-coated
movement give the
GMT Platinum 5N its
distinctive personality.
Right:
City names turn
inside a 24-hour ring
to indicate the local hour.
The inner ring is used during
daylight savings time.
The dark tone of the GMT Black
increases the visual impact of
the different textures used to
decorate the movement.
54
Two new variations of the GMT were introduced in 2015,
and they are as different as night and day. The first is the
Platinum GMT 5N Movement, a bi-color model that emphasizes the contrast between the platinum case and the rose-gold
PVD-finished movement. At the other end of the spectrum, the
GMT Black uses vacuum-deposited black ADLC to express a
dark beauty that is truly stunning.
Forsey says, “With a little imagination, you can see how the
GMT Black is like being in outer space while looking at the
Earth surrounded by darkness. On the other hand, the Platinum
GMT 5N looks like the color of the sky you see from a plane
when you’re flying into a sunset that seems to last forever.”
Greubel Forsey will produce unique editions of only 22
pieces for each of these GMT models.
GREAT EXPOSURE
The Double Tourbillon 30º Technique Bi-Color provides a
gorgeous showcase for the company’s first invention, the Double
Tourbillon 30º. Its two-tone look unleashes some serious visual
fireworks by pairing the 5N red gold case with the black chrome
movement. On the sides of the case there are black ADLC-treated
titanium plates inscribed with the atelier’s watchmaking
philosophy that enhance that contrast even further.
The movement is fully exposed to accentuate its technical
acumen. Not only can you clearly see the power reserve differential
(in the 1:30 position) and the quadruple barrel stack (at 11 o’clock),
but also the model’s signature double tourbillon 30° at the bottom.
The innovative mechanism consists of two carriages. The first
rotates once every four minutes, while its counterpart — which
is inclined at a 30º angle — rotates once every 60 seconds.
Left & above:
The 5N red gold
version of the
Double Tourbillon 30º
Technique Bi-Color
is produced in a
strictly limited run
of 22 pieces.
Transparency is a hallmark shared by another model from
Greubel Forsey, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain.
Here, a sapphire crystal bridge supports the tourbillon and
makes it look as though the mechanism is floating on top of the
frosted titanium movement.
This particular tourbillon is also quite fascinating from a
technical standpoint. To counteract the negative effects of
gravity on precision, the cage is inclined at 25º and rotates once
every 24 seconds.
Pushing the horological envelope like this is nothing new for
a company responsible for some of the most advanced tourbillons
in the market today. What’s more important, however, is that
Greubel Forsey’s insatiable eagerness to challenge what’s possible will continue to fuel its innovation for many years to come. ¨
A sapphire crystal bridge provides a clear view of the innovative
tourbillon featured in the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain.
55
H. MOSER & CIE.
Secret
HANDSHAKE
BY SCOTT HICKEY
Wearing a watch from H. Moser & Cie.
is a bit like knowing the secret
handshake for an exclusive club.
I
n the world of high-end timepieces,
where rarity is the coin of the
realm, this Swiss firm produces just 1,000 watches a
year to take its place among
the most sought-after brands
on the planet. But that rarity
alone would mean nothing
if it weren’t for the understated beauty and technical
sophistication shared by all
the watches in the H. Moser
collection.
The new Endeavour
Tourbillon is a prime example
of that impressive combination. A stellar balance of high
complication and high style, the
watch’s elegant tourbillon is
paired with a dark-and-stormy
fumé dial and a DLC-treated
titanium case.
A closer look reveals even
more telling details, like the Straumann
double hairspring (made exclusively by
H. Moser) pulsing inside the tourbillon
cage, as well as the alternating satin and
polished finishes decorating the titanium case. The watch also has a surprise
in store — a second time zone function.
Hidden behind the main hour hand is a
red hand that can be used to keep track
of the owner’s home time while the
primary display is set to the local time.
In keeping with the company’s
motto “Very Rare,” the Endeavour Tourbillon is offered as a limited edition of
only 20 pieces.
56
The Endeavour Tourbillon’s DLC-treated titanium case
(40.8mm) houses an automatic movement made in-house.
INTELLIGENT DESIGN
Without a doubt, the perpetual calendar is one
of the most useful watch complications. However, it’s also one of the most vexing,
because if it’s set incorrectly, it can
require expensive repairs.
H. Moser solved that conundrum
in 2006 with the introduction of its
award-winning Endeavour Perpetual
Calendar, a watch that, unlike most
perpetuals, can be adjusted forward or
backward, and at any time of the day. As
the brand’s CEO Edouard Meylan is fond
of saying, H. Moser was making “smart
watches” long before Apple got into the game.
The latest incarnation of this modern
classic boasts a striking blue fumé dial
that’s paired nicely with a hand-stitched,
kudu-leather strap.
Left: A small hand on the Endeavour
Perpetual Calendar’s blue dial indicates
the month using the hour indexes.
DISTINCTIVE DETAILS
Another model with a blue dial is this Venturer
Tourbillon Dual Time, a timepiece that shares
the same automatic movement as the Endeavour
Tourbillon.
Undeniably dashing in its 41.5mm white gold
case, the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time
distinguishes itself with a two-part
dial. On the lower half, the decorative
finish turns a spotlight on the tourbillon and its skeletonized bridge.
In addition, the entire dial is curved
at the edge to mirror the sapphire
crystal’s convex shape.
That same rounded case
profile — a visual tribute to
the brand’s historic pocket
watches — is also shared
by the Venturer Small
Seconds. Its 5N red gold
case and matching dial
present a cohesive look
that underscores the
dial’s balanced layout. Turn
the watch over to view the
beautifully rendered Genevastripe pattern on the handwound movement, as well as
the indicator for its three-day
power reserve.
At H. Moser, rarity isn’t just
about limiting the quantity it produces. It’s also about ensuring those
watches meet a level of quality
to which many brands aspire, but
few achieve. ¨
Above: With its 39mm 5N red gold case and matching fumé dial,
the Venturer Small Seconds is delightfully distinctive.
Left: The convex shape of the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time’s
white gold case pays homage to the pocket watches made by
Heinrich Moser.
57
HYT
FINE LINE
BY JONATHAN BUES
The company that harnessed liquid horology is riding the wave to even greater heights.
H
YT made a splash on the horological scene in
2012 with one of watchmaking’s most innovative concepts: a display combining water and
high-end mechanical horology.
Before the original H1 debuted, such a hybrid solution had proved elusive for the world’s top watchmakers.
In the years since, HYT has quickly built on this technology with new interpretations of its “liquid watch,” including the H2, which emerged in 2013. The latest expression
of that concept is the H3, which features the independent
brand’s first linear time display.
This required a new approach, which led HYT to partner with one of Switzerland’s most prestigious and ingenious movement designers, Renaud & Papi. Together they
created a watch that retains some of the collection’s signature details, but presents them in an entirely new way.
LINEAR LOGIC
Fans will instantly recognize the brightly colored fluid that serves
as the H3’s hour indicator. However, the familiar bellows that control the liquid’s progression are now pointed at one another instead
of being side by side. This alignment helps underscore the watch’s
overall linear aesthetic.
Possibly the most exciting development found in the H3 is the
new mechanism used to show the current hour. This numbered, aluminum segment runs parallel to the fluid-filled capillary. As time
advances, so does the fluid above the hour index. When the fluid
reaches the end of the line after six hours, it returns to the beginning like a retrograde hand, and the numbered segment rotates to
reveal a new set of numbers. What’s especially interesting is energy
created by the fluidic system is responsible for turning the display.
Presented in a gray PVD-coated titanium and platinum case,
the first H3 will be produced in a limited series of 25 pieces.
In the H3, liquid indicates the hour as it advances above an aluminum segment that rotates four times a day.
58
A HEAD ABOVE THE REST
One needn’t be a seasoned collector to appreciate the
bold design of the Skull.
Its hour indicator, which outlines the shape of
a cranium, incorporates complex curves unseen
in previous HYT timepieces. The bellows it uses
to control the liquid display are tucked into the
jaw like teeth.
Some say the eyes are the windows to the
soul. In HYT’s Skull, they reveal a different
kind of information, with the right eye indicating the power reserve, and the other counting
the seconds.
BONE STRUCTURE
From the Skull, HYT moves on to the bones with the
H4 Gotham. Here, the entire movement has been
skeletonized to reveal the intricacies of the mechanism that controls the liquid display.
But it’s not merely the mechanism that turns heads.
The case too merits a closer inspection. It’s made with 3DTP
Carbon, a rigid and lightweight material used frequently in
the aeronautic, nautical and automotive fields. This advanced
composition of carbon yields unprecedented rigidity.
RADIANT BEAUTY
And finally, there is the H2 Full Bronze, a new version of the
popular H2. This timepiece builds on HYT’s characteristic
liquid display by adding a jumping minute hand, thermal
indicator, and crown position indicator to facilitate manual
winding and time setting.
In an unexpected twist, the H2 Full Bronze is actually crafted
from lightweight titanium. Its suggestive name refers to the
bronze PVD finish applied to the case and movement bridges. ¨
Above: For its Skull Collection, HYT will produce 50 pieces of the
Skull Green Eye (black DLC-coated titanium case), and 25 pieces of
the Skull Red Eye (black DLC-coated titanium and 5N rose gold case.)
Above: Offered in a limited edition of 15 pieces, the H2 Full Bronze’s
case and movement are finished with bronze PVD.
Left: A limited edition of 50 pieces, the H4 Gotham’s skeletonized
movement reveals the complexity of its construction.
59
IWC
Fantastic
VOYAGE
BY JASON HEATON
IWC enriches
the Portugieser’s
considerable nautical
legacy with a new
Annual Calendar and
redesigned Yacht Club
Chronograph.
T
he Portugieser family traces its roots back to the 1930s, when clients from
Portugal approached IWC to produce large wristwatches containing pocket
watch movements capable of marine chronometer accuracy. To celebrate the
75th anniversary of those first Iberian-inspired watches, IWC rolled out a
series of new versions, one notable being the Portugieser Annual Calendar, which
contains a brand new complication for the Schaffhausen-based company.
An annual calendar watch is one that automatically accounts for shorter
months of the year (except for fickle February) and displays the date, day of the
week and month on the dial. IWC’s unique take on the complication places
these details in an arc of apertures atop the dial, with the month shown
first, in the American style, to honor the company’s founder F.A. Jones,
who was from Boston.
HOME AT SEA
Despite a gap of 75 years, the new Portugieser Annual Calendar bears a
striking resemblance to its historic forebear. A railroad track outer minute
ring and Arabic numerals on the silver or cerulean blue dial recall an earlier
era, and the large, classically styled case — in rose gold or steel — tapers to
elegantly curved strap horns.
Where the watch differs from that 1930s original is evident around back,
where the IWC-developed automatic movement is visible through a sapphire caseback. This movement has enough power reserve for seven full days, unheard of for
an annual calendar wristwatch. The watch is a fitting tribute to the Portugieser’s
own past while charting a new course for its future.
The new Annual Calendar may recall the look of the original Portugieser from the 1930s, but its
in-house movement is a modern creation that boasts an incredible seven-day power reserve.
60
STEADY AS SHE GOES
In a family of watches often connected to sailing and the ocean,
the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is easily the most
seaworthy. Named for an iconic IWC of the early Seventies, it is
a refined timepiece, but one that is rugged enough to not be
left behind in a skipper’s shore bag.
Its screw-down crown helps ensure a healthy 60 meters
of water-resistance, good for fending off spray or the odd
trip overboard, and the supple rubber strap sheds water
while conveying a decidedly sporty demeanor. A polished
bezel, classic plunger push-pieces and sculpted lugs bear
a family resemblance to the watch’s dressier siblings.
Inside the Yacht Club Chronograph is IWC’s topshelf caliber 89365, an automatic movement with 68
hours of power reserve, should you decide to leave it
off your wrist for that long. This movement allows for
the intuitive read-off of elapsed time — a single subdial is used for both hours and minutes, similar to a
clock dial. The chronograph also has a flyback complication, which means a single click of the lower push-piece
resets and restarts the timer.
The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, available in
either a steel or rose gold case, is that rare watch that blends
elegance with rugged utility. Like a classic 12-meter yacht,
it looks as good at the dock as it does rounding the windward mark. ¨
Left: The sunburst pattern of
the Yacht Club Chronograph’s
slate dial gives this sporty
watch a luxurious depth.
Above: The flyback chronograph measures elapsed time on a subdial that combines both
minutes and hours.
Left: An automatic movement made by IWC powers the Yacht Club Chronograph, which
features a 68-hour power reserve
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CULINARY CAMEOS
Sushi Seki
A Matter of
TRUST
To best enjoy an omakase tasting,
you must open your mind as well as
your mouth.
BY AMY COHEN
D
erived from the term “to trust,” omakase is
literally translated to mean “I’ll leave it
to you,” and the sushi chef is your guide in a
series of small courses. Dinner traditionally
begins with light flavors and progresses in
complexity, highlighting both the expertise
and creativity of the chef and the pristine seasonal ingredients. Eloquent, innovative and
often surprising, omakase can run the gamut
from refined to adventurous, and can be as
long as 24 courses. Prepare your palate!
O Ya
62
15 East
Ichimura at Brushstroke
Sushi Nakaza
SUSHI SEKI
Three New York City locations:
1143 1st Ave; 208 W 23rd St; 365 W 46th St
sushiseki.com
C
PHOTOGRAPHS (FACING PAGE): GENTL AND HYERS (O YA); ANGELA HADL (15 EAST); DANIEL KRIEGER (SUSHI NAKAZOWA)
PHOTOGRAPHS (THIS PAGE): COURTESY OF SUSHI SEKI
hef Seki is so good at reading people that after only a few
questions he creates and customizes a menu to each guest.
According to Yasu, the sake sommelier, “Making the fish is like
playing jazz, it’s all improvisation.” With no script and no menu,
Yasu literally watches Seki’s fingers to improvise the spontaneous wine pairings at the same speed. Season, pacing, size of
rice and preparation all vary for as many as 100 distinct styles
of sushi each night.
Seki’s menu often departs from
tradition by flipping the order of complicated and simple dishes to highlight their contrasting flavors. “Triple
Decker,” a complex dish of blue fin
toro, sautéed Kumamoto oyster and
sea urchin atop sushi rice with jalapeno sauce could be followed by ebi shumai, steamed shrimp dumplings with
karashi mustard soy. Typically, the
meal starts with small bites to showcase seasonal ingredients and progresses to serving piece by piece. Chef
Seki’s obvious delight in entertaining
the taste buds brings repeat guests
and celebrity chefs back for more!
63
CULINARY CAMEOS
ICHIMURA AT BRUSHSTROKE
30 Hudson St, New York, NY
davidbouley.com/brushstroke-sushi
he serene wooden alcove where chef Eiji Ichimura creates his version of omakase has no door of its own. It’s in
a corner of David Bouley’s Japanese restaurant Brushstroke,
and it’s a great accomplishment to secure one of the eight
coveted seats.
Following tradition, the ritualistic meal always begins
with an opening plate to show skill. Sashimi is next to reflect
the quality of ingredients, with fish and small bites that
reflect seasonal flavors. Chawan-mushi, a Japanese steamed
egg custard served in a small bowl, is the interlude before
the sushi begins. Chef Ichimura’s creativity and humor are
evident in “Triple Decker Toro,” three different grades of tuna
triple-stacked on a single mound of seasoned rice.
An unusual offering is the well-curated list of Japanese
teas that a sommelier handles with the same attention to
detail given to the wine list. The award-winning Gyokuro is
definitely a highlight. Its concentrated flavor can stay on the
palate for upwards of 15 minutes, long enough to savor it
with a few precious bites.
64
PHOTOGRAPHS: NICOLE BARTELME (FOOD); COURTESY OF ICHIMURA AT BRUSHSTROKE (RESTAURANT)
T
15 EAST
15 East 15th St, New York, NY
15eastrestaurant.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: MICHEL ANN O’MALLEY (RESTAURANT); ANGELA HADL (FOOD)
T
o enjoy the most amazing omakase at
15 East, you absolutely must sit at
the sushi bar. That’s the only place you
can experience how nicely the fish,
which is always cooled to the optimal
temperature, pairs with the rice, which
is still slightly warm, just seconds after
chef Marco created it. Sashimi is usually
served first and then followed by sushi
as a second course.
To finish, the chef likes to prepare a
sea eel hand roll drizzled with a sweet
sauce reduction of fish stock and sake.
The chef considers making this roll a
gift to himself, but the pleasure is definitely all yours.
Dishes change with the season, but
the popular tuna omakase flight is always on the menu. Composed of ten
pieces of tuna and five different cuts,
there’s usually at least one piece that’s
been lightly torch-broiled to warm it up
and melt the oils a little, garnished
simply with sea salt and lemon juice.
The chef feels omakase is a therapeutic
experience, slowing everything down
and letting it flow.
65
CULINARY CAMEOS
O YA
120 E. 28th St, New York, NY
oyarestaurantnyc.com
oston-favorite O Ya already has a
New York following at its tranquil
space in the Park South Hotel. The menu
is based on tradition, but isn’t afraid to
throw a few indulgent curves. In Japanese omakase, the sushi course is usually
served last, but at O Ya it’s the starter
that whets the appetite, and ingredients
are often garnished with whatever the
chef has found at the Union Square
Greenmarket.
The fried Kumamoto oyster sushi
exemplifies chef Tim Cushman’s attention to the details of each ingredient. The
rice is wrapped in nori to suggest a onebite maki roll, and the fried oyster on top
pays homage to the chef’s New England
roots. It’s dressed with house-made
yuzu kosho aioli for citrus and spice,
and the aioli is made with dashi stock to
deepen the flavor. The leftover oyster
liquor is mixed with squid ink to top the
sushi with another nuance of ocean
flavor. Whether you’re having the 18- or
24-course menu, each bite will feel like
a discovery.
66
PHOTOGRAPHS: GENTL AND HYERS
B
SUSHI NAKAZAWA
23 Commerce St, New York, NY
sushinakazawa.com
T
PHOTOGRAPHS: DANIEL KRIEGER
he story is well known: Restaurateur Alessandro
Borgognone discovered chef Daisuke Nakazawa
while watching him in the film Jiro Dreams of Sushi,
a backstage look at what goes on at a three-star
restaurant in Tokyo. He pitched the idea of his own
restaurant via Facebook using Google translate, and
the rest is New York omakase history. Film fans will
remember the 400 attempts Nakazawa made as
an apprentice before perfecting his tamago (egg
sushi) to meet with Jiro’s approval. He brings the
same heart and passion to preparing whatever is
in season.
The 20 courses on the sushi-only menu change
daily and are chosen to show off only the freshest
ingredients, including what the fishermen handpick
especially for the restaurant. Even though the menu
rotates constantly, you can always count on his signature tamago, which is typically served toward the
end of the meal, when courses are heavier and sweeter. Lucky patrons will be at the sushi bar on a night
featuring live delicacies, like giant clams or Florida
tiger shrimp. You can’t get any fresher than that! ¨
67
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Head in the
STARS
BY ELIZABETH DOERR
The venerable Vallée de Joux manufacture
concentrates on complicated elements originating
in the heavens this year with several standouts.
T
he moon is an eternal subject of interest for those interested in horology,
an art form that can be described as mechanically capturing recurring
astronomical events. In the early days of horology, the moon helped keep
track of time. Often, however — particularly in Europe — the moon could not
be seen thanks to cloud cover. Therefore, a representation of it was included in timekeepers
beginning around the time of the Renaissance. Today, no longer a necessity, the moon makes for
a lovely and aesthetic addition to a calendar watch.
No brand conquers time measurement quite as masterfully as Jaeger-LeCoultre. In fact, the
brand’s Marketing and Creation Director, Stéphane Belmont, recently captured that sentiment perfectly
by saying, “We take the heavens and insert them into living metal.”
One excellent example is the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième
Perpétuel, a new addition to the line that Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced in 2009 to pay tribute to its roots.
Pieces in the Master Grande Tradition family distinguish themselves by containing a combination of
at least two high complications and a movement with superlative finishing. In keeping with that tradition, the Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel’s movement boasts several types of decorative
polishing: clous de Paris, côtes soleillées, perlage, snailing, and simple satin brushing. Even the 22-karat
gold rotor is beautifully finished with an engraved reproduction of the gold medal won by JaegerLeCoultre at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1889. The automatic movement boasts bridges and
plates crafted in untreated German silver, hand-beveled of course. Swiss-style chatons and blued
screws round out the classic look of this aesthetic movement.
In terms of complications, the Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel includes a
flying tourbillon with cylindrical balance spring housed in a titanium cage, a perpetual
calendar, a moon phase display depicted by a lapis lazuli disc, a four-digit year display,
as well as the signs of the zodiac sharing space in the month subdial. To ensure continuity in production, one single master watchmaker is in charge of assembling
this complex movement from A-to-Z.
The watch also showcases the meticulous craftsmanship that’s
one of the hallmarks of the Master Grande Tradition line. Here,
it extends from the frosted-finish texture underneath
the blue dial to the contrasting polishes of
the 42mm white gold case.
68
The Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon
Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel is
meticulously crafted inside and out.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
OVER THE MOON
The second installment of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s magnificent Duomètre line is called
the Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire, and its special “superpower” is that its
movement — Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381 — is characterized by two independent mechanisms, each with its own power supply: one for timekeeping and
another for the functions.
The movement operates on a dual-wing concept, meaning that the timekeeping and calendar functions pull energy from separate sources. The
only element the two mechanisms share is the regulating organ that
supplies them both with the timekeeping beat. The movement, which is
partially visible through the dial, contains two full gear trains and
two spring barrels, each holding 50 hours. To make life easy, a single
crown winds both barrels.
The register at 6 o’clock on the cream-colored dial contains a
display for the jumping seconds. It features a zero-reset system that
returns the hand to the 12 o’clock position when the crown is pulled
to make it easy to precisely set the time. This display divides each
second into increments of one-sixth — its speed easily reminding
its wearer of lightning, which is the origin of the French word
foudroyante, the technical term for this type of display.
STARRY EYED
Though many of the “new” feminine
timepieces seen these days are men’s
watches that have somehow been made
“prettier” using decorative elements
like enamel and gems, Jaeger-LeCoultre
has chosen a route involving serious
complications made for women that
differentiates it from other brands.
This is especially visible
in the Rendez-Vous line.
The Rendez-Vous
Celestial contains mechanics that are just as beautiful
as the stones and other elements that embellish the outside of the watch,
making this rare beauty a uniquely and deliciously complicated rendition of a
timepiece dedicated explicitly to women.
In 2015, the brand introduced a red aventurine version of the Celestial that
was previously available only with a blue dial. In this new form, the dial’s
outer arc comprises the funky applied numerals characteristic of the revived
Rendez-Vous collection, plus the star-tipped “rendez-vous” hand against the
backdrop of red lacquer applied to hand-guilloché metal.
The constellations of the Northern Hemisphere and their corresponding zodiacs
are featured on a large rotating disc that occupies the lower half of the dial. It rotates
at an almost imperceptible pace — once every 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds — to
display the position of the constellations at any given time of the year.
The automatic movement that turns the star disc also includes an annual calendar
function, which means that it needs to be corrected only once a year. Both Celestials are
housed in 37.5mm cases, rose gold for the aventurine dial and white gold for the lapis dial.
From top: The rose gold Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire has
two independent power reserves to enhance performance.
The heavens reside on a disc made from aventurine in
this rose-gold version of the Rendez-Vous Celestial.
70
The Rendez-Vous Celestial’s beautiful
lapis lazuli sky disc rotates to show
the position of the constellations.
INFINITE POSSIBILITIES
The romanticism and infinite possibilities of the heavens have always provided special
inspiration to humankind. But more than that, the heavens, and in particular the Earth’s
satellite, have always aided humankind in keeping track of time. The moon and other
heavenly bodies provide continuously recurring events that allowed humans to
measure and divide time, thus conquering it.
It is also fun when the heavens come to us here on Earth. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s
automatic Master Calendar, with its unique meteorite dial, is proof of that. The
decorative dial of this full calendar watch was painstakingly crafted from a piece
of rock that’s millions of years old and thought to have come from an asteroid
belt located between Mars and Jupiter.
And because they can, Jaeger-LeCoultre has also created the Master
Ultra Thin Date, a graceful stainless steel timepiece whose height
measures just 7.45mm despite a stately diameter of 40mm and the inclusion
of a rotor for automatic winding. The case’s svelte elegance speaks to the
skill possessed by the watchmakers at home under the mighty brand’s
roof — watchmakers who often look to the heavens for inspiration, as
watchmakers have done for centuries. ¨
Despite automatic
winding, the steel Master
Ultra Thin Date measures a
mere 7.45mm in height and
40mm in diameter.
The Master Calendar’s clean design is topped
off by a meteorite dial, all neatly packaged
in an elegant 39mm rose gold case.
71
LUDOVIC BALLOUARD
Mechanical POET
BY SCOTT HICKEY
of meter and rhyme,
his imagination finds its
voice in metal and gears.
B
allouard is a gifted watchmaker with a rare skill set.
His keen mind is extraordinarily
adept at overcoming mechanical
challenges, which gives free reign to his
imagination to dream up playful new
ways of measuring time. His atelier in
Geneva only produces 30 pieces year. But
what it lacks in volume, it more than compensates with unbridled creativity.
One of his most impressive inventions
has to be the Half Time. For the uninitiated, it takes a moment to adjust to the dial’s
enigmatic mix of the familiar and foreign.
The Roman numerals are a common sight,
but Ballouard has ruthlessly split them
in half and reassembled them in an unfamiliar jumble on two rotating discs. The
lone exception, however, is the fully formed
number at the top of the dial that indicates
the current hour.
72
The Half Time’s inventive
display turns to form the
current hour at the top
of the dial.
What’s really electrifying about
this watch is the show-stopping performance that happens at the top of every
hour. It begins when the retrograde-style
minute indicator completes its arc across
the dial’s lower half. At that moment, the
hand snaps back to zero, and the hour
discs turn to instantly form the next
Roman numeral.
Ballouard introduced the original in
2012 in a platinum case, and followed it a
few years later with a rose-gold version
that has Chinese numbers. Now he’s back
with a new incarnation that features
Roman numerals on the hand-painted,
matte-white dial. For a real treat, turn the
case over to see the patented movement
through the clear caseback. Most of the
parts are made from brass and together
they radiate a soft, golden glow that complements the 41mm rose gold case.
PHOTOGRAPH: CARLOS GUSTAVO (HALFTIME)
Ludovic Ballouard
is a poet. But instead
This version of the Upside Down
has a platinum case set with more
than 2.6 carats of diamonds. Even
more adorn the B-shaped buckle.
This rose-gold Upside Down
features a titanium dial.
EMERGING ARTIST
When he was a teenager, Ballouard studied
watchmaking in his native France. He was
20 when he graduated and started working
for the legendary Swiss movement maker
Lémania. But after a year, he returned home to
Brittany, where he spent the next six years
working as an airplane control panel technician.
At age 27, Ballouard re-committed himself to watchmaking
and moved to Geneva to work at Watchland, Franck Muller’s famed
workshop. A few years later, Ballouard joined F.P. Journe, where he
learned from the master watchmaker, and was entrusted with the task
of assembling and regulating one of Journe’s most challenging movements, the Sonnerie Souveraine.
That all changed in 2009, when Ballouard left to create his
own watch, one he’d been dreaming about for years. It was the
Upside Down, a seemingly classic dress watch that packs a surreal
surprise — all of the numbers on the dial are upside down except the
current hour.
Through the years, the award-winning design has been presented
in several different guises, each exhibiting its own distinctive personality. In Ballouard’s hands, the classic gold watch receives a nice
update with a gray titanium dial that offers a subtle and welcome
break from the more typical white.
In a platinum version, Ballouard uses the beautiful contrast between the white metal and black dial to create a look that is succinct
and sophisticated. Diamonds dominate a second platinum model and
cover everything from the bezel, lugs and crown protector, to the
B-shaped buckle.
With his sublime machines, Ludovic Ballouard stakes his claim
as one of the most creative talents in watchmaking today. ¨
Black PVD gives the dial its distinctive shade
in this platinum version of the Upside Down.
73
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
Fantastic
VOYAGE
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
Founded by Michel Parmigiani, a master of
antique watch restoration, Parmigiani Fleurier
makes technically brilliant, aesthetically pure
timepieces built to last the ages.
T
he new Tonda 1950 Tourbillon sets an impressive
benchmark for the brand’s manufacturing capabilities. Containing the world’s thinnest (3.4mm) automatic flying tourbillon with a micro-rotor, the timepiece owes its slimness to its ingenious design. The
micro-rotor in 950 platinum is integrated into the main
plate, along with the barrel, tourbillon cage, time-setting
mechanism and central display system.
At a mere .255 grams, the tourbillon cage is fashioned
from lightweight titanium instead of the steel typically
used. Boasting an inertia balance designed to streamline the
cage, the tourbillon is reinforced by a blued-steel seconds
hand that was crafted at the brand’s atelier in the Swiss
village of Fleurier. The hand serves as a precise measure of
counterbalance against the weight of the other components
inside the cage.
The result is an elegant and efficient 40.2mm rose gold
wristwatch that’s available in five dial versions: gray motherof-pearl, white or black jade, grained white, and (shown
here) dark blue decorated with côtes de Genève. All the
versions share an aesthetic secret: The flying tourbillon is
positioned left of center, near the 7 o’clock index, with
an orientation whose angle corresponds to 7:08. This is a
special tribute to the exact time that Michel Parmigiani was
born in Val-de-Travers.
74
The rose gold Tonda 1950 Tourbillon with a dark blue
dial comes on an alligator strap made by Hermès.
Left: The rose gold Tonda 1950
Squelette for women features
diamonds on its bezel and a
frosted dial.
Left: The 39mm white gold case of the
Tonda 1950 Squelette for men frames
a hand-decorated movement.
SKELETON CREW
In its white gold Tonda 1950 Squelette for men, Parmigiani aims to flaunt,
rather than conceal, its ingenuity. The point of this elegant, extra-thin timepiece, whose openworked dial has been painstakingly skeletonized by hand, is
to reveal the timeless beauty of its construction. That includes a platinum
micro-rotor that appears to float just beneath the surface of the sapphire dial.
Whereas the men’s version features a perfectly translucent sapphire dial with
a metallized rim, the dial on the women’s version of the Tonda 1950 Squelette is
frosted to soften the angular appearance of the movement. Its 39mm case has a
diamond-set bezel and is available in either rose or white gold.
OUT OF THIS WORLD
Rounding out the newest additions to Parmigiani’s iconic Tonda collection is the
Tonda 1950 Special Edition Meteorite, a handsome, slender wristwatch with an
otherworldly appeal — literally. The dark blue dial was cut from a piece of meteorite
and treated with acid to reveal its rich texture. The decision to pair the dial with
a case made of titanium was deliberate because the strong and lightweight metal
is, unlike gold or platinum, a natural element and not an alloy.
But materials are not the only things that make this model special. The
ultra-thin movement — a mere 2.6mm thick — boasts an exceptional degree of
finishing that distinguishes Parmigiani Fleurier in a crowded field of haute
horlogerie contenders. ¨
The Tonda 1950 Special Edition Meteorite,
also available with a black dial, comes in
a case made from titanium.
75
RICHARD MILLE
A Higher
LEVEL
BY JAMES LAMDIN
Richard Mille’s constant search for
a performance edge continues to
fuel its reputation for envelopepushing innovation.
T
he recent introduction of the
RM 60-01 Regatta Flyback
Chronograph set a new
standard for technical innovation in yachting timers. You
would be hard pressed to name a
similar watch that matches the RM
60-01’s considerable functionality.
Among the most rare is its ability to
serve as a navigational compass.
But it also has a second time zone
display and flyback chronograph, as
well as annual calendar functions.
Finally, the movement utilizes a variably oscillating rotor that adapts winding to different levels of activity.
Improving on this watch’s striking
looks was no easy feat, but Richard
Mille succeeds with the RM 60-01 Voiles
de Saint Barth. Even though the movement remains unchanged, its new color
scheme gives the watch an entirely different character. This fresh look effectively
evokes the tropical paradise that’s home to
the world-famous Caribbean regatta for
which the watch is named.
Presented in a 50mm titanium case, the
RM 60-01 Voiles de Saint Barth is part of a
50-piece limited edition. There is little
doubt this version of Richard Mille’s
innovative take on the regatta watch will be
prized by collectors and professional
sailors alike.
The RM 60-01 Voiles de Saint Barth combines bold design with innovative
functionality, including the ability to serve as a navigational compass.
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WRIST CANDY
Also benefiting from a new look is the elegant RM 07-01 Ladies. Introduced previously in white ATZ ceramic, the feminine and decidedly
graceful RM 07-01 is now being offered with a warm-chocolate
brown ceramic treatment that beautifully contrasts with the 5N
red-gold accents of the tripartite case.
To make this lovely ladies timepiece, Richard Mille employs the same technical flair and attention to detail that it
brings to bear on its men’s watches. Those looking for compromises will find none in the skeletonized automatic
movement, a caliber made especially for the RM 07-01.
Despite its highly technical nature, the watch is not
without its share of aesthetic charms. The diamond-set
dial commands attention, but soft touches like the droplet-shaped hour markers and beautifully sculpted crown
stand out as well. With pieces like the RM 07-01, women
with a passion for great design in high horology are
no longer left wanting for more.
WINNING STREAK
The RM 011 Midnight Fire is impossible to
pass up. Available exclusively in North and
South America in a limited run of 88 pieces,
the Midnight Fire is instantly striking and
manages to be both boisterous and
stealthy all at once.
This latest incarnation of the RM
011 sandwiches a carbon case
between two black ceramic TZP
bezels. The red inner flange and
skeletonized Arabic numerals
shine bright against the dark,
skeletonized movement below.
On the wrist, the bold design
floats like a feather in the
w ay t h a t o n l y o n e o f
Monsieur Mille’s brilliant
creations can.
The collection’s flagship for several years,
the RM 011 houses one
of the most technologically impressive
automatic chronograph
movements ever developed. To see it in action,
the baseplate and bridges
have been reduced to
a skeletonized titanium
framework.
The RM 011 Midnight Fire
joins the growing list of droolworthy special editions that have driven collectors wild over the past few years.
With the Midnight Fire, Richard Mille is
playing a hot hand in more ways than one. ¨
The chocolate-brown ceramic
bezel and matching rubber
strap give the RM 07-01
Ladies its decadent look.
The brand’s flagship
chronograph movement
powers the RM 011
Midnight Fire, a limited
edition of 88 pieces.
77
URWERK
FRUITS of their LABOR
BY SCOTT HICKEY
What happens when you add lively colors to one of the
most recognizable watches around? Urwerk answers with
effervescent incarnations of the UR-105 TA that feature
the model’s trademark wandering hour satellites in
either vibrant orange or radiant yellow.
From left: The UR-105 TA Black Lemon’s titanium case (53 x 39.5mm)
features a steel bezel finished with black PVD. The bright orange
fabric strap is made to match the UR-105 TA’s trademark wandering
satellite hour display.
T
he UR-105 TA Black Lemon and UR-105 TA Black
Orange are the first pieces in the collection to feature
such cheerful colors, says Martin Frei, artistic director and co-founder of Urwerk. “Black is one of the signatures of the Urwerk aesthetic,” he explains. “However, with
the UR-105 TA we decided to push much further with color.
While the black is still there, it no longer dominates. The
vivid colors inspired by our SuperLuminova really announce
their presence.”
78
Like previous versions, the aerodynamic case looks as though
it just flew in from the Alpha Centari star system. And the dual air
turbines (visible on the back) optimize winding of the automatic
movement, and are responsible for the TA (turbine automatic) in
the watch’s name.
But there are differences beyond the obvious aesthetics.
These colorful models have been refined mechanically with a new
crosspiece to move the satellites. “There is virtually no friction,
no jerking movement, just the ballet of satellites. It is the fluidity
of the gears that quietly reveals all our hard work,” says Felix
Baumgartner, Urwerk co-founder and chief watchmaker.
SYMBIOTIC RELATIONSHIP
All mechanical automatic watches rely on the movements of the person wearing
them for winding. That holds true in the UR-210Y, but Urwerk has found a way
to improve that relationship.
Beneath the amorphous crystal, in the top corners of the dial, there
are two displays. On the right is a traditional indicator showing how
much of the 39-hour power reserve remains stored in the mainspring.
Things get decidedly more interesting on the left, where the hand
tracks the watch’s winding efficiency over the last two hours.
This is quite helpful for people with sedentary desk jobs,
who don’t move enough during the day to sufficiently wind
their automatic watches. This special indicator lets you know if
you’ve moved enough to replenish the energy expended during
the previous 120 minutes.
ELECTRIC PERSONALITY
It’s no exaggeration to say that the EMC (Electro Mechanical
Control) is unlike any other mechanical timepiece. It is the
first to give owners the ability to check and adjust the watch’s
timing rate.
Checking the rate is not only simple, but also quite a bit
of fun. First, unfold the handle tucked into the side of the case and
turn it several times. This generates an electrical charge that
powers the optical sensor and tiny onboard computer that measure
the timing rate. (This electronic system has no effect on the mechanical movement.)
Once the sensor is charged, push the button on the side of the
case to display the test results on the graduated arc at the top. Numbered from +20 to
-20, this subdial indicates how many
seconds the watch has lost or gained that
day. The owner can then turn the
watch over and fine-tune the
rate accordingly by simply turning a screw.
Never one to
slip quietly under
the radar, Urwerk
continues to fly in the
face of tradition with
all of its uncompromising creations. ¨
Above: Nicknamed
the “Black Hawk,” the
UR-210Y is limited to
just 75 pieces.
Right: The EMC not only
shows you how many
seconds the mechanical
movement has gained
or lost throughout the
day, it also allows you
to correct it.
79
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
The Historiques Cornes de
Vache 1955 chronograph
reinterprets a model from
the past for the modern age.
By the
HORNS
BY ELIZABETH DOERR
Vacheron Constantin celebrates 260
years of continuous manufacturing with
a collection of exceptional timepieces
showcasing the maison’s rich legacy.
T
he historic Geneva-based manufacture has produced
timepieces without interruption since 1755, and one of its
specialties is taking design elements from its vast historical
archives and reinterpreting them for exquisite use in a very
real and modern present.
The Historiques collection is a perfect example of this, expressing Vacheron
Constantin’s heritage through contemporary interpretations of models from the
maison’s past. The newest model in this collection is called Cornes de Vache 1955
thanks to its inspiration, a 1955 chronograph boasting case lugs that the manufacture
has fancifully christened “cow-horn” lugs.
The original Cornes de Vache timepiece was the first water-resistant and anti-magnetic
chronograph crafted by Vacheron Constantin. Alongside its emblematic lugs, the original
featured a petite, by today’s standards, 35mm-diameter case in yellow gold featuring two
“mushroom-type” push pieces and a screwed-in glass back.
MODERN CLASSIC
Today’s reinvented Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 features interesting stylistic elements, like the use of
precious 950 platinum to make the 38.5mm case and lugs, which immediately remind any connoisseur of
Vacheron Constantin’s illustrious past. The new watch is water resistant to 30 meters and features a screwed-in
caseback fitted with a transparent sapphire crystal allowing a clear view of the complex, hand-decorated
mechanical heart. The watch’s larger case diameter enables an airier display for optimal readability.
To power the timepiece, Vacheron Constantin chose Caliber 1142 because it, too, is a historical
movement. Naturally, the company has modified the caliber significantly to fit with its demanding
horological standards. Most importantly, it bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, which
ensures top-notch precision and durability for the timepiece.
While fitted with two classic round push pieces, the new Historiques Cornes de Vache
1955 houses an exceptional mechanical heart, beating at an improved frequency of 3 Hz
to ensure greater shock resistance and precision. This re-interpreted chronograph is
endowed with an impressive 48-hour power reserve. Like the other new chronograph movements by the brand, the column wheel boasts a screw in the shape of
a Maltese cross, Vacheron Constantin’s highly recognizable emblem.
The modern Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 also features a silvertoned opaline dial, Roman numerals, applied hour-markers and hands in
white gold. The central seconds hand and the 30-minute counter hand
are a striking royal blue color, further enhancing the legibility of its
display. The tachymeter scale added to the chronograph allows
the user to determine an average speed over a known distance.
A dark blue, hand-stitched alligator-skin strap completes
this incredibly aesthetic and functional timepiece.
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN
ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION
The beautiful Harmony Chronograph is part of the collection Vacheron Constantin
released in 2015 to celebrate its 260th anniversary. Limited to 260 pieces, the watch
is housed in a distinct 42mm cushion-shaped rose gold case. The Harmony
Chronograph’s manually wound Caliber 3300 contains a monopusher chronograph, with timings shown on the 45-minute counter located at the 3 o’clock
position on the dial. Additionally, this clearly designed dial boasts a pulsometer scale in red, which can be used in conjunction with the chronograph
to take one’s pulse.
The Harmony Dual Time is another beautiful model in the new
Harmony collection. Designed in that same cushion-shaped case, but
sized at 40mm and available in white or rose gold, its silver opaline dial
incorporates subdials to indicate the time in a second time zone, as well
as a day/night display.
Limited to 260 pieces, the Harmony Chronograph uses
a rare 45-minute counter to keep track of elapsed time.
Housed in a 40mm cushion-shaped case, the automatic
Harmony Dual Time is available in white or rose gold.
All seven of the Harmony anniversary pieces unveiled this year boast a special
engraving that will not appear on subsequent models: a scrolling motif inspired by
the engraving found on the balance cock of the oldest pocket watch in Vacheron
Constantin’s possession, which is from 1755 and signed by Jean-Marc Constantin.
Known as fleurisanne-style engraving, this decorative addition appears on the
rotor, a bridge and the balance cock. A commemorative inscription is also
found on the caseback of these anniversary timepieces.
SPORTY STYLE
In 1996, Vacheron Constantin introduced the first generation of its stainless
steel, luxury sports watch collection known as the Overseas. Three years
later, the company added the first chronograph to this collection. In 2015,
Vacheron Constantin expands the Overseas family once again with the addition of a new column-wheel chronograph model featuring a sultry gray dial.
Left: A 260-year old pocket watch signed
by Jean-Marc Constantin inspired the
engraving on the balance cock.
82
The masculine dimensions of the 42mm stainless steel case remain simultaneously angular and beguilingly soft thanks to the interplay between the brushed
multipartite case and the satin-finished bezel. Keen eyes will also recognize the
shape of the bezel, which is purposefully reminiscent of the brand’s signature
Maltese cross. The visual elements of this new Overseas are bolstered greatly by
the watch’s functionality, including its automatic movement and water resistance to 150 meters. Production of this handsome model is limited to just
340 pieces.
TIMELESS ARTISTRY
The Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve recalls horological
traditions from the 18th century with its fine craftsmanship. Even
though the watch takes inspiration from the past, it does make a concession to the ease of modernity by using an automatic movement
that has earned the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva certification.
Housed in a 39.5mm rose gold case, its dial is dominated by two round
registers depicting the days of the week and the date.
Another long-standing tradition at Vacheron Constantin is that it
has always made elegant watches for women. The latest is a stylish member of the Malte line — whose name is derived from the Maltese cross that
is so emblematic of the manufacture.
The quartz-powered Malte Ladies
is housed in a white gold case reminiscent of the tonneau shape that’s
been part of the Malte line for more
than a century. It remains svelte enough
in dimension (28.4 x 38.6 x 7.2mm) to be
a companion for both day and night. And
if the size and case material weren’t
proof enough of its evening-wear
appropriateness, then perhaps the 211
brilliant-cut diamonds are. ¨
Above: To enhance legibility, yellow
highlights adorn the gray dial of this
sporty steel Overseas, a limited edition
of 340 pieces.
The quartz Malte Ladies is presented in
a white gold case adorned with white
brilliant diamonds on the dial and bezel.
An automatic movement stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
powers the rose gold Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve.
83
WALTHAM
Peak
PERFORMANCE
BY SCOTT HICKEY
Waltham aims high as the company writes the latest chapter in its storied history.
Extreme conditions will test Waltham’s
durability this winter when two British
adventurers wear the brand’s watches as they
attempt to climb Mt. Aconcagua in Argentina.
T
his winter, British adventurers Hugh Taylor and Luke Blezard will wear watches
from Waltham’s Aeronaval collection as
they attempt to scale the tallest summit in
the Americas, Mt. Aconcagua in Argentina.
They are daring to endeavor the 6,960-meter
climb to the top of “America’s Roof,” as it’s known,
to help raise awareness and more than $20,000 for
Haciendo Camino and Help Them Hope, two South
American charities that help the region’s underprivileged children.
Blezard says, “The charities we’re supporting
open doors and look out for children with limited
opportunities in life. Our hope is that by achieving
our dream of scaling the tallest mountain in the
Americas it will encourage children to follow theirs.”
84
IN GOOD COMPANY
The ascent will put Waltham’s legendary ruggedness to the ultimate test.
The CDI and ETC models will be exposed to hostile conditions, including
temperatures that hover around -35 º, but can plunge to as low as -80º C
at the summit.
Those familiar with the brand’s history know that this isn’t the first
time an adventurer has worn a Waltham while attempting an extraordinary
feat. In the early 20th century, Sir Ernest Shackleton explored the South Pole
wearing one, as did Robert Peary when he conquered the North Pole.
Waltham president Antonio DiBenedetto says Taylor and Blezard are
kindred spirits who share the same values that have guided the brand since
it started in 1850. “It’s exciting to see Hugh and Luke take their place alongside other intrepid adventurers like Shackleton and Peary who put their
trust in Waltham. It’s also a rare opportunity for us to test our watches in
these kinds of harsh conditions.”
Follow the journey online at Waltham.ch for videos, photos and more.
The angular case of the
Waltham CDI houses an
automatic movement that
features a GMT hand and
a central date indicator.
WALTHAM
PART OF HISTORY
Another explorer who favored Waltham was Charles
Lindbergh. The pilot chose the company’s XA-Type 37
Model aeronautical clock to accompany him onboard
the Spirit of St. Louis as he completed the first transatlantic flight in 1927.
The company uses that historic timekeeper
as the muse for its Waltham XA. Like the
clock, the watch features a small seconds
display perched at the top of the dial. But
aesthetics are where the similarities
begin and end.
The XA is an unmistakably modern
creation, especially the case, which is
used for all the Aeronaval watches.
Made from grade-five titanium, with a
diameter of 47mm, the case is faceted
like a gemstone and crowned with a
ceramic bezel. Water-resistant to 300
meters like a dive watch, the case
protects the Swiss-made, automaticwinding movement inside.
Above: The Waltham XA Pure’s 47mm titanium case
is faceted like a gemstone and features brushed
surfaces and polished edges.
Left: The Waltham CDI is heir to the Waltham CDIA
Civil Date Indicator Aeronaval, a familiar sight on
military aircraft starting in the 1940s.
PROUD TO SERVE
Throughout its history, Waltham answered the call to
support the U.S. military during times of war. The
company used its vast manufacturing expertise to provide much-needed military support in World War I, including wristwatches worn by troops that were called
trench watches.
During World War II, one of Waltham’s many contributions
was an aeronautical clock called the CDIA: Civil Date Indicator
Aeronaval that was used in aircraft like the Hellcat fighter and
B24 bomber.
The Waltham CDI offers a contemporary interpretation of that
historic cockpit clock complete with a central date hand. The watch
also includes a GMT function controlled by two buttons on the side of
the case that move the main hour hand — forward and backward — to
reflect the local time. Meanwhile, the secondary hour hand remains in
place to indicate the owner’s home time on the 24-hour scale engraved
on the ceramic bezel.
86
TOP FLIGHT
The Waltham ETC’s design takes its lead from the Waltham
Type-A13a, a clock used in a number of aircraft during the 1960s.
As the official aeronautical clock of the U.S. Department of
Defense during the Cold War, it flew on board everything
from the C-130 Hercules to the U-2.
It also appeared in the F4 Phantom, the legendary
aircraft developed for the U.S. Navy by McDonnell
Aircraft. During its service, it set more than a dozen
performance records — including absolute speed and
altitude — and was used to train the best naval aviators
in the TOPGUN program.
Much like the Waltham Type-A13a, the Waltham ETC
offers a clean look designed to optimize readability. The
ETC, which stands for Elapsed Time Counter, features
two centrally fixed hands to indicate the chronograph’s
minutes and seconds. The small registers offer additional timekeeping information, including a 24-hour day/night
indicator on the left and a small seconds on the right.
All the watches, including the ETC, are available in the
same case. That bold, angled shape proves to be quite versatile
aesthetically thanks a selection of metal treatments.
Each model is available in three variations: Black Matter uses
a black-PVD finish to give the watch a stealthy look. Eclipse pairs
the titanium case with black PVD-coated lugs for a nice contrast.
Pure has an all-titanium design that radiates simple sophistication.
Unlike most chronographs that rely on sub-dials to track elapsed times,
the Waltham ETC uses centered hands for the minutes and seconds.
DEEP ROOTS
For this Black Matter version of the ETC, PVD covers the
entire titanium case, which is water-resistant to 300 meters.
Rather than fall back on established traditions, Waltham has always
preferred to explore new ways of making watches. That iconoclastic
approach can be traced back more than 160 years to the company’s
early days.
After building a factory in Waltham, Massachusetts in 1854, the
brand went on to revolutionize the watchmaking process as the first
company to industrialize production. Instead of creating unique
parts for a single watch like other brands, Waltham developed
extremely precise machines that made it possible to produce interchangeable parts that could be used to make a series of watches.
This groundbreaking technique ushered in a new era of productivity and helped make Waltham one of the world’s most prolific
watchmakers. During its first 100 years, the company produced an
astounding 40 million watches.
That unconventional approach is alive and well in the modern
Waltham collection, says DiBenedetto, who re-launched the brand
in 2014. “Waltham has always been more interested in making history than repeating it, which is why our new watches have such a
modern edge. I’m proud of where Waltham has been, but I’m more
excited to see where we’re going.” ¨
87
CLOCKWISE
CLOCKWISE
1. ANNUAL CALENDAR
a glossary of horological terms
1a 1b
A calendar function that automatically
compensates for the irregular lengths
of months. It requires an annual adjustment — when February changes to March
— hence the name.
2. AUTOMATIC (OR SELF-WINDING)
This complication replaces manual
winding in wristwatches by converting
the wearer’s everyday motions into
stored energy, which powers the mechanical movement. A winding box may
also be used to achieve the same results.
For both methods, the motion spins a rotor connected to the movement, which
generates energy by tightening the
mainspring. It’s also worth noting that
an automatic movement may also be
wound using the crown.
2a 2b
3. BALANCE
Similar to the pendulum in a pendulum
clock, this regulating mechanism ensures
a steady timekeeping rate in wristwatches. Comprised of a balance spring fixed
to a weighted balance wheel, the device
is connected to the mainspring. When the
mainspring releases energy, it swings the
balance wheel in one direction, called an
oscillation, which tightens the balance
spring. When the balance spring releases
this stored energy, it propels the balance
wheel back an equal distance in the opposite direction, transferring energy to
the drivetrain, which powers the watch
movement. The balance’s precise backand-forth motion divides time into equal
parts and is the source of the watch’s signature “tick-tock.”
88
3a 3b
1a.
1b.
2a.
2b.
3a.
3b.
Portugieser Annual Calendar by IWC
RM 011 Midnight Fire by Richard Mille
XA Black Matter by Waltham
Clé de Cartier by Cartier
Portuguieser Automatic by IWC
Double Balance Spring assembly by Audemars Piguet
4. BARREL
4. Double-barrel by Audemars Piguet
5. Caliber GP033M0 by Girard-Perregaux
6. Caliber A&S8200 by Arnold & Son
7. BR 03 Heritage Ceramic by Bell & Ross
8. Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain by Greubel Forsey
9. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, Black Edition by H. Moser & Cie.
4 5
This cylindrical receptacle is lined with
teeth around its circumference. It holds
the mainspring, which is attached at one
end to the barrel and at the other to the
arbor (axle) on which the barrel turns.
Winding the watch turns the barrel,
which increases the mainspring’s tension. After winding, the mainspring releases the energy that powers the watch
movement.
5. CADRATURE
The mechanism located directly behind
the dial that rotates the hands.
6. CALIBER (OR CALIBRE)
6 7
Originally referred to the measurement
of the watch movement, but modern usage indicates a type of movement i.e.
men’s caliber, automatic caliber. Watchmakers can use the caliber name and
number to indicate the company, shape
and origin.
7. CERAMIC
8 9
This material is used in watchmaking,
primarily for case production. Valued for
its qualities, ceramic is 30 percent lighter than steel, virtually scratchproof, impervious to rust and smooth to the touch.
8. CHAPTER RING
The numerals or indices on the edge of the
dial that indicate the hours and sometimes minutes.
9. CHATON
A gold ring in which a jewel bearing is
set; typically found only in the finest
movements.
89
CLOCKWISE
10. CHRONOGRAPH
A watch with a manually operated stopwatch function that measures intervals
of time.
In addition to the basic chronograph,
there are two other popular versions:
-FLYBACK: allows instant re-set of the
timing function.
-SPLIT-SECOND: allows simultaneous
timing of two events that begin at
the same time but end at different
times.
10a. DB28 Maxichrono by De Bethune
10b. Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph by IWC
11. Mille Miglia GTS Power Control by Chopard
12. Column wheel by Vacheron Constantin
13. Constant escapement mechanism by Girard-Perregaux
14. UR 105-TA Black Lemon by Urwerk
10a 10b
11. CHRONOMETER
A timepiece that is precise enough to be
used as a time standard. Under Swiss
regulations, only watches that have been
tested and certified by authorities such
as the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des
Chronomètres) can be called a chronometer.
12. COLUMN WHEEL
11 12
Used in high-quality chronograph movements, this toothed wheel coordinates the
chronograph’s start, stop and reset functions. A traditional design, the column
wheel is more labor-intensive to produce
than other styles of chronographs.
13. CONSTANT FORCE
ESCAPEMENT
Ensures the level of energy transferred
from the barrel does not vary in order to
maintain consistent timekeeping.
14. COMPLICATION
Any function in a manual-winding watch
or clock additional to the display of
hours, minutes and seconds including:
automatic winding, date, calendar, moon
phase, power reserve and GMT, to name
a few.
90
13 14
15 16
15. CÔTES DE GENÈVE
(OR GENEVA STRIPES)
Created by a rose engine lathe, this
pattern of undulating waves is used
frequently to decorate movements
found in fine timepieces.
16. DEPLOYANT BUCKLE
17 18
A tri-folding enclosure affixed to both
ends of a strap or bracelet. When fully
deployed, enough room is created to place
the watch on the wrist. When closed, a
buckle covers the folding mechanism that
secures the watch to the wrist.
17. DECIMAL REPEATER
This specialized repeater indicates the
time audibly on demand using a series
of high and low tones that represent the
hours, 10-minutes and minutes.
18. DIVE WATCH
19a 19b
A timepiece that meets the international safety standards defined by ISO 6425.
Those requirements focus on durability
(water resistant to at least 330 feet),
safety (unidirectional rotating bezel)
and legibility (luminous elements).
19. DUAL TIME ZONE (OR GMT)
15. Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine
by Vacheron Constantin
16. Cellini’s exclusive deployant buckles in 18-karat gold
17. Zeitwerk Minute Repeater A. Lange & Söhne
18. Hydroscaph Central Chronograh by Clerc
19a. GMT by Greubel Forsey
19b. Harmony Dual Time by Vacheron Constantin
The terms dual time and GMT are often
used interchangeably because they share
the same purpose — to display the time
in two different time zones simultaneously. There is, however, a slight
distinction. A GMT watch displays a
time zone using a 24-hour index that can
be used to determine if it’s day or night
in that location. A dual-time zone watch
uses a 12-hour index, often paired with
a day/night indicator.
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CLOCKWISE
20. ESCAPEMENT
The component of a mechanical watch
that is responsible for the advancement
of the wheel train rotation and the even
passage of time. The escapement in a
watch is usually controlled by the balance wheel.
21. EQUATION OF TIME
20. I llustration of Lange 31 escapement by A. Lange & Söhne
21. 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time by Girard-Perregaux
22. Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF)
23. BR-X1 Carbone Forgé by Bell & Ross
24a. Geneva Seal logo
24b. L.U.C 1963 by Chopard
20 21
A complication that calculates the difference between the mean solar day
which lasts 24 hours, and the true solar
day, whose length varies from the mean
solar day between +16.24 and -14.22
minutes throughout the year due to the
tilt of the Earth’s axis and the eccentricity of its orbit around the sun.
22. FLEURIER QUALITY
FOUNDATION (FQF)
An independent group based in the village of Fleurier, Switzerland dedicated
to evaluating watches made anywhere
in Switzerland. To be certified by the
FQF, a watch must pass rigorous tests
related to chronometry and durability,
and also exhibit superlative finishing.
22 23
23. FORGED CARBON
A few watch brands have adopted this
patented material, which was originally
developed for aeronautical applications.
Both lighter and stronger than steel, the
material’s marbled appearance is the
result of its production process.
24. GENEVA SEAL
Available exclusively to watch movements made in the City or Canton of
Geneva, this insignia certifies that a movement has satisfied a list of criteria related to both aesthetics and performance.
The Geneva Laboratory of Horology and
Microengineering serves as an impartial
judge that oversees the certification process and is responsible for awarding this
prestigious accolade.
92
24a 24b
25 26
25. GRAND COMPLICATION
While there is no formal definition for
this term, it’s generally agreed that a
grand complication includes a minimum
of three complications, one from each
of the following categories: timing
(chronographs), astronomical (calendars,
equations of time and moon phases) and
striking (repeaters and alarms).
26. GUILLOCHÉ
27 28
An engraving technique that results
in very fine lines etched onto a flat, level
surface. Brands often express personality and creativity by decorating dials
and movements with beautifully intricate patterns of guilloché.
27. JEWELS
Precious stones (usually synthetic rubies)
used in a watch movement that act as
bearings for pivots and help reduce friction. Most movements contain at least a
dozen jewels but can feature more.
28. JUMPING HOUR
29 30
A watch that advances the time by
“jumping” to the next hour, usually
through a digital display window. Jumping hour watches use mechanical movements with numbers on wheels below
the dial that change as time advances.
The numbers appear to change instantaneously every hour.
29. MANUFACTURE
A term the Swiss watch industry uses to
distinguish a company that produces a
watch from start to finish, instead of
sending it to a finishing shop where the
parts are assembled and calibrated.
25. Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication by Cartier
26. DB25 Zodiac y De Bethune
27. Caliber 2260 by Vacheron Constantin
28. Jules Audemars Minute Repeater by Audemars Piguet
29. Cartier Manufacture, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
30. Tonda 1950 Tourbillon by Parmigiani Fleurier
30. MICRO ROTOR
Invented in the 1950s, this smaller version of the traditional oscillating weight
is used to wind the mainspring in some
automatic watches. Its diminutive size
results in a thinner movement.
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31. MINUTE REPEATER
Indicates the time using tonal patterns
created when tiny hammers strike finely
tuned gongs. It chimes the hours, quarter hours and minutes on demand. One
of the most labor-intensive timepieces
to produce, it can take up to a year to
manufacture.
32. MOON PHASE
31. Minute Repeater Tourbillon with Gold Bridges by Girard-Perregaux
32. Master Calendar by Jaeger-LeCoultre
33. RM 07-01 Ladies by Richard Mille
34. Craftsman applies perlage at the Cartier manufacture
35. Datograph Perpetual by A. Lange & Söhne
36. Double Tourbillon 30º Technique Bi-Color by Greubel Forsey
31 32
This complication calculates and displays the lunar cycle. Many moon phases
advance once every 24 hours, which
requires that they be adjusted every two
and a half years. More complex models
do not require adjustments for hundreds
of years.
33. PAVÉ
Gems set as closely together as possible
in order to conceal a metal base.
34. PERLAGE
33 34
(French for “pearling”) A decorative pattern of overlapping swirls sometimes
applied to watch movements. It’s applied
by hand using a spinning drill fixed with
a wooden or rubber polishing bit.
35. PERPETUAL CALENDAR
A calendar function that calculates and
displays the date, day, month and leap
year without any adjustment by the user.
This remains true until the year 2100,
when there is no leap year due to the
Gregorian calendar. All watches record
time, the moments that make up a day,
but perpetual calendars keep track of all
of those days. Depending on the watch,
there are many different types of indicators that display the specific day, date
and month.
36. POWER RESERVE
This function measures and displays the
amount of power stored in the mainspring.
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35 36
37 38
37. REGULATOR
A clock or wristwatch that displays the
hours, minutes and seconds separately.
Sometimes called a parent clock, manufacturers used to set their timepieces to
precise regulators because the separate
displays were easy to read, making for
exact adjustments.
38. RETROGRADE
39 40
A hand that travels across the dial in an
arc — usually from 90 to 180 degrees —
instead of a 360-degree revolution around
a centrally fixed point. When a retrograde
hand finishes its journey across the dial,
it returns instantaneously to begin a new
measurement. Retrograde hands can indicate date, day or month in perpetual
calendars, but can also be used for hours,
minutes or seconds.
39. ROTOR
(OR OSCILLATING WEIGHT)
41a 41b
Found in a watch with automatic winding, this semicircular weight — powered
by the owner’s physical movements —
rotates to tighten the mainspring, which
stores reserve energy.
40. SILICON (OR SILICIUM)
An element used in watchmaking to create everything from escapement wheels
to balance springs. Prized for its properties, silicon is lightweight, anti-magnetic, resists corrosion and does not require lubrication.
41. SKELETON
37. WW2 Regulateur by Bell & Ross
38. Half Time by Ludovic Ballouard
39. Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième
Perpétuel Jubilee by Jaeger-LeCoultre
40. DB28 GS by De Bethune
41a. H2 Full Bronze by HYT
41b. Tonda 1950 Squelette by Parmigiani Fleurier
A watch movement that is transparent or
cut out in a decorative manner in order to
reveal all of the movement’s parts. Traditional watch dials display the current
functions of time, date or day for a specific
moment in time. A skeletal dial further
reveals the watch’s movement and how its
mechanism calculates on-going time.
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CLOCKWISE
42. SONNERIE
42 43a
There are two kinds of sonnerie complications: petite sonnerie and grande sonnerie. Both chime the time automatically.
The petite sonnerie chimes the number of
hours and quarter hours. It’s unique because it does not repeat the hour chime
when striking the quarter hours. The
grande sonnerie is an extremely complex
mechanism that automatically chimes
both the number of hours and quarter
hours every 15 minutes. It’s also capable
of striking the hours and quarters on
demand. Sometimes combined with a
minute repeater.
43b 44
43. TACHYMETER
A scale that often accompanies a chronograph that measures speed. A tachymeter
usually indicates speed in kilometers
per hour.
44. TOURBILLON
Sometimes referred to as a ‘whirlwind,’
the tourbillon counteracts the effects of
gravity on the balance and escapement
thus aiding better accuracy. This is
achieved by housing the balance, balance
spring and escapement in a rotating
carriage (cage). Invented for the pocket
watch by Abraham-Louis Breguet in
1801, the tourbillon remains a popular
complication.
45 46
45. TRAIN (OR GOING TRAIN)
A system of toothed wheels and pinions
used to convey energy stored in the mainspring to the escapement.
46. TRUE BEAT SECONDS
(OR DEAD SECONDS)
A seconds hand that pauses for each
increment rather than travel in a continuous motion.
42. Master Grande Tradition Minute Repeater by Jaeger-LeCoultre
43a. Superfast Chrono by Chopard
43b. RM 60-01 Voiles de St. Barth by Richard Mille
44. Endeavor Tourbillon by H. Moser & Cie.
45. Illustration of Caliber 380 by Jaeger-LeCoultre
46. DSTB by Arnold & Son
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47 48
49a 49b
47. VIBRATIONS
A measurement that indicates the frequency of semi-oscillations (half turns)
made by the balance wheel; usually
measured in vibrations per hour (vph).
Most high-frequency (or high-beat)
mechanical movements vibrate between
six and 10 times a second, or 21,600 vph
and 36,000 vph respectively. (In comparison, a typical quartz movement vibrates
about 235 million times an hour.) While
there are many factors that influence a
watch’s timekeeping accuracy, generally
speaking, the more often a movement
vibrates, the more accurate it will be.
48. WANDERING HOUR
This centuries-old complication does
not use a traditional hand to indicate
the hour. Instead it uses some form of an
orbiting satellite to indicate the hours.
49. WATER RESISTANT
50a 50b
A watch designed to prevent water from
entering the case. An atmosphere (atm)
is the measurement used to gauge how
water resistant a watch is. Watches rated 3 atm resist infiltration by water to a
conventional depth of 30 meters; rated 5
atm resists to a conventional depth of 50
meters.
50. WORLD TIME
Refers to a watch that indicates the local
time in major cities around the world,
usually representing each of the 24 time
zones. The names of the cities are typically displayed on an outer ring on the
dial or on the bezel of the watch. ¨
47. Caliber 4101OR by Audemars Piguet
48. Golden Wheel by Arnold & Son
49a. Hydroscaph GMT Power Reserve Chronometer by Clerc
49b. Royal Oak Offshore Diver by Audemars Piguet
50a. Geophysic by Jaeger-LeCoultre
50b. Traveller WW.TC Titanium DLC by Girard-Perregaux
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