maybelline “ultra-liner” liquid waterproof eyeliner

MAYBELLINE “ULTRA-LINER” LIQUID WATERPROOF EYELINER
ANNA WALANT // IND 487P- SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION METHODS // PROFESSOR FRANK MILLERO // SPRING 2013
HISTORY
WHY I STARTED WEARING LIQUID EYELINER:
ABOUT
PRESS FIT CAP IS GLUED ONTO ROD SO THE CAP CAN BE DECORATED IN
WHATEVER WAY THE COMPANY SEES FIT
CAP
HIGH DENSITY POLYETHYLENE
(HDPE)
INJECTION MOLDING
MAYBELLINE “EYESTUDIO” WATERPROOF GEL EYELINER
MAYBELLINE “ULTRA-LINER” LIQUID WATERPROOF EYELINER
PROS- STAYS ON FOR A VERY LONG TIME. COULD
WEAR OVERNIGHT AND NOT SMUDGE MUCH. NEVER
FLAKEY. BOLD LOOK. SLIGHTLY SMUDGEY FOR AN EASY
“SMOKEY EYE” LOOK. PART OF A “PROCESS” TO PUT
ON- MADE ME FEEL MORE EXPERIENCED AS A USER.
PROS- THIN APPLICATOR. EASY TO APPLY A LITTLE, AND
BUILD UP TO A BIGGER BOLDER LOOK IF DESIRED. NOT HARD
TO REMOVE. DRIES FAST. CAN’T LOSE JUST ONE PART OF THE
PRODUCT (LIKE THE BRUSH FROM THE GEL LINER). EASY TO
USE. TAKES ONE TO TWO DIPS IN THE LINER TO GET DESIRED
LOOK.
CONS- FELT HEAVY ON EYELIDS. HARD TO REMOVE
PROPERLY. APPLIES ONTO EYELID IN THICK BRUSH
STROKES. BRUSH EASILY LOST (REPLACED WITH A
NORMAL PAINTBRUSH). IRRITATES EYES.
PELLETS ARE FED TO A MACHINE THAT SLOWLY HEATS UP THE PLASTIC.
INJECTED INTO A STEEL MOLD, AND THEN EJECTED WHEN SOLIDIFIED. MAKES
VERY SPECIFIC, INTRICATE PARTS.
WAND
HIGH DENSITY POLYETHYLENE
(HDPE)
CONS-FLAKEY. SOMETIMES TOO EASY TO REMOVE. IRRITATES
EYES. APPLICATOR OFTEN GETS GUNKY OVER TIME (THEREFORE LESS THIN LINE).
BRUSH MADE FROM STAPLING NYLON FIBERS TOGETHER. AFTER ASSEMBLED,
BUFFERED TO A POINT (FOR A FINE LINE DURING APPLICATION)
BRUSH
SIMILAR PRODUCTS:
NYLON
WIPER
THERMOPLASTIC ELASTOMER
(TPE)
BOTTLE
HIGH DENSITY POLYETHYLENE
(HDPE)
LABEL (“DECO”)
SILKSCREEN
INJECTION BLOW MOLDING
TWO STEP MOLDING PROCESS- HOLLOW INJECTION MOLDED PRE-FORM
IS STUCK INTO A MOLD CAVITY, AND BLOWN INTO. TAKES SHAPE AS
BLOW-MOLDED PART, BUT WITH A CONTROLLED NECK
MAYBELLINE “ULTRA-LINER” LIQUID WATERPROOF EYELINER
ANNA WALANT // IND 487P- SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION METHODS // PROFESSOR FRANK MILLERO // SPRING 2013
PROCESS TREE
HIGH DENSITY POLYETHYLENE
(HDPE)
(E)
(E)
POLYMERS,
ETHYLENE, (E)
(E)
FLUORINE,
(E)
OIL EXTRACTION
DISTILLATION
GAS PHASE
POLYMERISATION
CARBON
DIOXIDE
CARBON
DIOXIDE, WASTE
WATER
CARBON
DIOXIDE,
PARTICULATE
MATTER
INJECTION BLOW
MOLDED
CARBON
DIOXIDE
FLUORINATION
CARBON
DIOXIDE
NYLON
(E)
(E)
(E)
(E)
OIL EXTRACTION
DISTILLATION
THERMOPLASTIC ELASTOMER
(TPE)
CARBON
DIOXIDE
CARBON
DIOXIDE, WASTE
WATER
(E)
(E)
CARBON
DIOXIDE, WASTE
WATER
?
(E)
UV LIGHT
(E)
?
ESTERFICATION
CARBON
DIOXIDE
?
UV EXPOSURE
CARBON
DIOXIDE
?
EXTRUSION
?
STAPLING
CARBON
DIOXIDE
?
?
?
?
PRESS FIT
CARBON
DIOXIDE
(E)
ASSEMBLY
CARBON
DIOXIDE
(E)
TRIMMING
(E)
(E)
OIL SPILLS ARE TRAGEDIES THAT UNFORTUNATELY OCCUR DUE TO THE DESIRE
AROUND OIL.
IN 2008, OVER 200 PENGUINS WASHED
ASHORE IN BRAZIL- ALTHOUGH THE CAUSE
WAS NOT A LARGE OIL SPILL (LIKE THE BP
OIL SPILL IN 2010), IT IS ALMOST MORE
POIGNANT THAT A SMALL OCCURANCE HAD
SUCH A LARGE EFFECT. THE CAUSE OF
ALL OF THESE PENGUIN DEATHS IS SAID
TO BE A SMALL SPILL FROM A BOAT A BIT
OFFSHORE.
DISTILLATION
CARBON
DIOXIDE
EYELINER FORMULA
CARBON
DIOXIDE
KNOWN EFFECTS OF OIL:
GLOBAL CLIMATE CHANGE IS A KNOWN
EFFECT OF USING OIL. THE USE, AND
THEREFORE, BURNING OF OIL PRODUCES
CARBON DIOXIDE EMISSIONS. THESE
EMISSIONS HELP TO ADD TO THE
GREENHOUSE GASSES THAT CONTRIBUTE
TO GLOBAL CLIMATE CHANGE.
CORAL BLEACHING CAN BE A RESULT OF
THE CHANGE IN CLIMATE CONDITIONS.
THE ORGANISM THAT LIVES INSIDE
CORAL IS VERY SENSITIVE, AND IT
RESPONDS POORLY TO CHANGES IN
ITS ENVIRONMENT. WHEN THE WATER
CHANGES TEMPERATURE, OFTEN THE
CORAL WILL END UP DYING, LEADING TO
CORAL BLEACHING.
OIL EXTRACTION
SILKSCREEN DECORATION
(“DECO”)
THERE ARE PLENTY OF HUMAN HEALTH
EFFECTS THAT COME FROM BEING
EXPOSED TO CRUDE OIL- THIS WAS
SHOWN PARTICULARLY AFTER THE BP OIL
SPILL IN 2010.
VOLUNTEERS, AND EVEN RESIDENTS
FROM THE AREA, HAVE SHOWN A WHOLE
HOST OF A VARIETY OF DIFFERENT
PROBLEMS- FROM RASHES TO SERIOUS
RESPIRATORY ISSUES, AND EVEN MENTAL
HEALTH PROBLEMS. SIMILAR RESULTS
WERE SHOWN BY COMMUNITIES AND
INDIVIDUALS WHO HAVE WITNESSED
OTHER OIL SPILLS.
UV LIGHT
(E)
(E)
MAINTENENCE,
(E)
SILKSCREEN
UV EXPOSURE
USE
LANDFILL
CARBON
DIOXIDE,
EXCESS FIBERS
CARBON
DIOXIDE,
EXCESS INK,
WASTE WATER
CARBON
DIOXIDE
CARBON
DIOXIDE,
FORMULACAUSEDIRRITATION
WASTE, LEAKS
WASTE THAT ENDS UP ON LANDFILLS AND IN THE OCEAN CAN HAVE HORRIBLE
AFFECTS ON ANIMALS AND PEOPLE ALIKE. SHOWN BELOW IS WHAT HAPPENS
WHEN THE WASTE IS SMALL ENOUGH TO BE INGESTED BY BIRDS, AS
PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHRIS JORDAN.
INGREDIENTS:
Aqua/Water/Eau, Styrene Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates Crosspolymer, Alcohol
Denatured, Butylene Glycol, VP Dimethiconylacrylate Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester,
PEG 75 Lanolin, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Methylparaben, Polysorbate 20,
Sodium Dehydroacetate, Cellulose Gum, Disodium EDTA, Propylparaben, Simethicone,
May Contain (+/-):, Iron Oxide (CI 77491), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI
77499), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Ultramarine Blue Violet (CI 77007), Chromium
Hydroxide Green (CI77289), Carmine (CI 75470), Chromium Oxide Green, Ferric
Ammonium Ferrocyanide (CI 77510)
• PROPYLPARABEN: Developmental/reproductive toxicity, Ecotoxicology, Endocrine disruption,
Allergies/immunotoxicity, Use restrictions
• ALCOHOL DENATURED: Enhanced skin absorption, Cancer, Developmental/reproductive
toxicity, Multiple, additive exposure sources, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive)
• METHYLPARABEN: Biochemical or cellular level changes, Endocrine disruption, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Use restrictions
• PHENOXYETHANOL: Allergies/immunotoxicity, Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs), Organ system
toxicity (non-reproductive), Occupational hazards, Use restrictions
• PEG-75 LANOLIN: Data gaps, Contamination concerns (ETHYLENE OXIDE, 1,4-DIOXANE, ETHYLENE OXIDE, 1,4-DIOXANE), Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive)
• POLYSORBATE-20: Contamination concerns (ETHYLENE OXIDE, 1,4-DIOXANE), Organ system
toxicity (non-reproductive)
• CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS: Enhanced skin absorption, Ecotoxicology, Organ system toxicity
(non-reproductive), Persistence and bioaccumulation
• CHROMIUM HYDROXIDE GREEN: Ecotoxicology, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive),
Persistence and bioaccumulation
• IRON OXIDES: Enhanced skin absorption, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive),
Persistence and bioaccumulation
• STYRENE/ ACRYLATES COPOLYMER: Contamination concerns (METHACRYLIC ACID, ACRYLIC
ACID, 2-ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE), Use restrictions
• ULTRAMARINES: Multiple, additive exposure sources
• FERRIC AMMONIUM FERROCYANIDE: Ecotoxicology, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive)
• CARMINE: Ecotoxicology
• BUTYLENE GLYCOL: Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs)
• SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE: Occupational hazards
(http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/product/463058/Maybelline_Line_Works_Ultra_Ultra-Liner_Liquid_Waterproof_Liquid_Liner%2C_Black/)
MAYBELLINE “ULTRA-LINER” LIQUID WATERPROOF EYELINER
ANNA WALANT // IND 487P- SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION METHODS // PROFESSOR FRANK MILLERO // SPRING 2013
PROPOSALS
INTERCHANGABLE PARTS
FRUIT AND VEGETABLE PIGMENTS
THE BRAND “100% PURE” CLAIMS TO BE1”00% VEGETARIAN, 100% NATURAL, GLUTEN FREE....100% PURE EYE LINERS
ARE MADE FROM ANTIOXIDANT RICH FRUIT AND VEGETABLE PIGMENTS. YOU'LL LOVE OUR HYDRATING AND NON
STICKY FORMULA.”
HOWEVER, SOME RESEARCH INTO THE BRAND SHOWED THAT CUSTOMER REVIEWS WERE LESS THAN IDEAL.
“-FLAKES A BIT
-CAN CRACK A LIL
-A LOT OF PRODUCT COMES OUT WHEN YOU PULL THE WAND OUT
-THIS IS MOSTLY MY LASHES FAULT CAUSE THEIR LONG AND GET IN THE WAY BUT ITS HARD TO APPLY THE LINER CUZ
THE WAND IS A LIL LONG AND BULKY. I END UP GETTING LINER ALL OVER MY LASHES
-KINDA THICK SO YOU HAVE TO REALLY SHAKE AND SWIRL IT” (HTTP://WWW.MAKEUPALLEY.COM/PRODUCT/
SHOWREVIEW.ASP/ITEMID=139713/CREAMY-LIQUID-LINER-IN-BLACK-TEA-/100-PERCENT-PURE/EYELINER)
& “I AGREE WITH THE PREVIOUS REVIEW, THIS PRODUCT IS FLAWED. THE PRODUCT CONSISTENCY IS UNEVEN,
MAKING IT HARD TO APPLY, EVEN FOR A LIQUID LINE. IT ALSO GOES ON A SHEER PURPLE IN PLACES, SO TO ACHIEVE
A REGULAR COLOUR IT HAS TO BE LAYERED, WHICH LEADS TO IT BEING QUITE THICK AND THEN FLAKING AS IT DRIES.
IT WAS WORTH A TRY BUT I’D RECOMMEND TO AVOID!” (HTTP://WWW.MAKEUPALLEY.COM/PRODUCT/SHOWREVIEW.
ASP/ITEMID=139714/CREAMY-LIQUID-LINER-IN-BLACKBERRY/100-PERCENT-PURE/EYELINER)
I WAS ALSO DISHEARTENED TO FIND A FEW RIDICULOUS CLAIMS ON THEIR WEBSITE, SUCH AS: “100% PURE
PRODUCTS ARE BASED AROUND ANTIOXIDANTS. WHY ARE ANTIOXIDANTS SO IMPORTANT?
EVERY MOMENT, WE ARE SLOWLY DETERIORATING. FREE RADICALS SUCH AS THE SUN, SMOG, SMOKE, CIGARETTES,
ETC. ATTACK US, CAUSING AGING, WRINKLES, AND CANCER. ONLY ANTIOXIDANTS PROTECT US, FIGHTING OFF THE
DAMAGING FREE RADICALS. SUN BLOCK IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE IT BLOCKS UP TO 80% OF UV RAYS, BUT SUN
BLOCKS DO NOT PROTECT AGAINST OTHER FREE RADICALS. YOUR SKIN NEEDS ANTIOXIDANTS FOR SUN PROTECTION
AND PROTECTION AGAINST ALL DAMAGING FREE RADICALS.” BUT THEY PROVIDE NO DOCUMENTS OR RESEARCH TO
SUPPORT THEIR CLAIMS.
SOURCES
THE BRAND “ORAL-B” HAS AN ELECTRIC TOOTHBRUSH THAT THEY SELL,
ALONG WITH MANY ATTACHMENTS FOR IT. THERE ARE HEADS FOR FLOSSING,
FOR WHITENING, FOR SENSITIVITY, FOR KIDS, ETC. THE EXTREME BENEFIT OF
ALL OF THESE OPTIONS THAT FIT ONTO THE CHARGING BASE IS THAT THERE IS
SO MUCH ROOM FOR CUSTOMIZATION BY THE CONSUMER.
I WONDER HOW THIS COULD BE APPLIED TO THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY- INSTEAD OF MAKING A THOUSAND AND ONE DIFFERENT TYPES OF APPLICATORS
THAT COME WITH THEIR OWN FORMULAS, THE SAME FORMULA COULD BE
USED WITH MULTIPLE BRUSHES. I THINK THIS COULD CHANGE THE FACE OF
MAKEUP ENTIRELY- NOW, WHEN THE APPLICATOR HAS BEEN WORN DOWN, OR
THE FADS HAVE CHANGED, THE APPLICATOR CAN BE SWITCHED OUT WITHOUT
HAVING TO REPLACE THE SOLUTION AS WELL.
MAKING AS NEEDED
JELL-O IS A BRAND THAT HAS AT LEAST TWO VARYING WAYS TO INTERACT WITH
THEIR PRODUCT: THE PRE-MADE CUPS OF JELL-O THAT ARE SOLD IN THE REFIRDGERATED SECTION AT THE FOOD STORE, AND THE BOXED POWDER. THE
POWDERED JELL-O IS A MUCH BETTER PRODUCT- IT CAN BE MADE WITH ONLY A
SPOONFUL OF THE BOX, OR THE WHOLE THING. IT CAN BE MIXED WITH DIFFERENT
FLAVORS AND FOODS, AND IT CAN BE PLACED IN ANY DESIRED CONTAINER.
I THINK THIS IS AN IMPORTANT EXAMPLE, BECAUSE CURRENTLY COSMETICS ARE
MOSTLY PRE-MADE FORMULAS, AND THEREFORE GO TO WASTE MORE OFTEN THAN
NOT.
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USER BENEFITS
USER BENEFITS
USER BENEFITS
IN A SYSTEM WHERE THERE IS A HEALTHY AND “TRANSPARENT” LIST OF INGREDIENTS, THERE ARE SEVERAL BENEFITS FOR THE CONSUMER:
IN A SYSTEM WHERE THERE ARE INTERCHANGABLE PARTS, THERE ARE SEVERAL BENEFITS FOR THE CONSUMER:
IN A SYSTEM WHERE THERE IS A “MIX AS NECESSARY” SYSTEM THERE ARE SEVERAL BENEFITS FOR THE CONSUMER:
• TRUST THAT THE BRAND WILL DO THE BEST THING FOR THE HEALTH OF THE
CUSTOMER- BETTER RELATIONSHIP
• OVERALL BETTER HEALTH OF CONSUMER- NO BAD REACTIONS TO UNPRONOUNCEABLE INGREDIENTS
• THE ABILITY TO PERSONALIZE IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. IT MAKES THE
CONSUMER FEEL LIKE THEY ARE GETTING THE ULTIMATE USAGE OUT OF
THEIR PURCHASE.
• WHEN ONE OF THE PARTS IS DAMAGED IN SOME WAY- WHETHER IT IS
WORN FROM OVER-USE, OR THERE IS A MANUFACTURING FLAW, NOT ALL
OF THE COMPONENTS ON THE PRODUCT NEED TO BE REPLACED.
• IF THE OVERALL PRODUCT WANTS TO BE SHARED AMONG INDIVIDUALS,
THE INTERCHANGABLE PARTS MAKE THIS POSSIBLE. FOR THE COST OF ONE
OVERALL PRODUCT AND SEVERAL ACCESSORIES, THEY CAN MAKE IT USABLE FOR MORE THAN ONE PERSON.
• THE BIGGEST BENEFIT, FROM A CONSUMER STANDPOINT, IS THE ABILITY
FOR CONTROL IN THE OUTCOME OF THE FINAL PRODUCT- THEY CAN ADD
OR SUBTRACT ANY INGREDIENT FROM THE MIX AND MAKE A COMPLETELY
CUSTOMIZABLE END-RESULT.
• THERE IS PORTION CONTROL, MEANING THAT THE USER MAKES AS MUCH AS
THEY NEED FOR A GIVEN USE- THERE IS NO REASON FOR THE PRODUCT TO BE
WASTED (I.E. I CAN CHOOSE TO MIX AS MUCH JELL-O AS I SEE NECESSARY
WITH A BOX, BUT WITH THE PRE-MADE CUPS I AM BOUND BY WHAT IS
PROVIDED)
• BECAUSE PART OF THE “USE” STAGE OF THE PRODUCT REQUIRES “MAKING” THE
FINAL RESULT, THE CONSUMER MAY BECOME A MORE LOYAL FAN OF THE COMPANY (I.E. USERS OF HOME HAIRDYE KITS MIGHT HAVE A MORE POSITIVE VIEW
OF THE COMPANY AFTER MAKING THE FINAL MIXTURE, NOT TO MENTION A VERY
STRONG SENSE OF INDEPENDENCE THAT COMES WITH IT BEING “DIY”)
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Maybelline LLC
Cosmetics
Cosmetics+production
Cosmetics+production+manufacture
Cosmetic Industry
Toiletry industry
Cosmeceuticals
Polyethylene production
HDPE production
HDPE manufacturing
LDPE production
LDPE manufacturing
Fluorine
Fluorination
Cosmetic Ingredients
TPE
Oil Distillation byproducts
Output of Oil Extraction
How is HDPE made?
Human health affects from oil
oil Human health affects
oil+human health
Landfill
Landfill affects
Eyeliner
Liquid liner
Health of cosmetics
Natural cosmetics
How is nylon made?
Nylon manufacturing
Silkscreen
Silkscreen ink
Silkscreen manufacturing