kantina kantina - eatdrink Magazine
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kantina kantina - eatdrink Magazine
Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario www.eatdrink.ca FREE PLEASE TAKE ONE drink RESTAURANTS • RECIPES • WINE • TRAVEL KANTINA London’s Chic Stellar Taste of SERBIA FEATURING Bradshaws in Stratford TG’s Addis Ababa Restaurant in London Quai du Vin Estate Winery in St. Thomas ALSO Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festivall The Garlic Box in Hensalli Issue 24 • August/September 2010 Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival Nine days of glorious food in Stratford, September 18-26, kicks off with all things garlic at the Garlic Festival! A week of culinary tours and activities unfold and excitement builds to the two-day festival along the banks of the Avon River in Stratford’s Garden Heritage district. 18th Garlic Festival 19th Visit Perth County Farms Tour 20th Shake up your Martini 22nd Edible Stratford Tour 23rd Pilsner, Pubs and Spirits Tour 24th Beerology with Mirella Amato Tableland Film Screening 25th BBQ, Blues and Brews with Carlos del Junco 26th Savour Stratford Tasting Discover our food lover’s paradise, visit www.welcometostratford.com/eatdrink CONTENTS 11 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2010 6 ISSUE 24 FOOD WRITER AT LARGE The Stratford Tourism Alliance By BRYAN LAVERY RESTAURANTS 16 16 Stellar Serbian at Kantina Café, in London By BRYAN LAVERY 20 Out of Africa: TG’s Addis Ababa Restaurant, in London By BRYAN LAVERY 11 SPOTLIGHTS Being Bradshaws, in Stratford By DAVID HICKS 24 Jackie Rowe and The Garlic Box, in Hensall By JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON 20 48 Quai du Vin Estate Winery, in St. Thomas By DEBRA BAGSHAW BOOKS 28 A “Perfect” Quest: The Man Who Ate the World Review by DARIN COOK 24 34 Changing the Way We Eat: Locavore Review by BRYAN LAVERY COOKBOOKS 37 Adventures in Northern Cooking: The Boreal Gourmet Review & Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL 3455 48 59 NEW & NOTABLE 40 The BUZZ BUZZ TRAVEL 52 Discovering the Tastes of Prince Edward County By KYM WOLFE BEER MATTERS 56 Summertime Odds ’n’ Sods By THE MALK MONK WINE 59 Prime Pairings at Pellar Estates Winery By RICK VanSICKLE THE LIGHTER SIDE 62 Hamming It Up In Havana By DARIN COOK eatdrink ™ inc RESTAURANTS • RECIPES • WINE • TRAVEL A Food & Drink Magazine Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario www.eatdrink.ca A Virtual Magnet for All Things Culinary Read an Interactive Magazine Online, Find Restaurants, Read Reviews and More! Publisher Chris McDonell — [email protected] Managing Editor Cecilia Buy — [email protected] Contributing Editor Bryan Lavery Finances Jim Sisco Advertising Sales Director Chris McDonell — [email protected] Advertising Sales Representatives Jane Antoniak — [email protected] Diane Diachina — [email protected] Loretta Hogan-Andrew — [email protected] Mary Pat Pegg — [email protected] Telephone & Fax 519 434-8349 Mailing Address London Magazine Group 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6 Contributors Bryan Lavery Jennifer Gagel D.R. Hammond David Hicks Cecilia Buy Jane Antoniak Darin Cook Rick VanSickle Kym Wolfe Debra Bagshaw Jill Ellis-Worthington Editorial Advisory Board Bryan Lavery Cecilia Buy Cathy Rehberg Copy Editor Jodie Renner — www.JodieRennerEditing.com Graphic Design & Layout Joanne Grogan Chris McDonell Website Milan Kovar/KOVNET Printing Impressions Printing Copyright © 2010 eatdrink inc™ and the writers. All rights reserved. Reproduction or duplication of any material published in eatdrink™ or on eatdrink.ca™ is strictly prohibited without the written permission of the Publisher. eatdrink™ has a circulation of 12,000 issues published monthly. The views or opinions expressed in the information, content and/or advertisements published in eatdrink™ are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. August/september 2010 issue no. 24 www.eatdrink.ca 5 NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHER To Everything There Is a Season By Chris McDonell W hile we’re having a summer to remember weather-wise, are you also finding plenty to savour on your plate and in your glass? My unscientific polling suggests that more of us are getting out to dine, and we’re enjoying a higher quality of fare almost everywhere we turn. Everyone seems to have a story of a great meal, and recommendations are plentiful. So it’s been a treat for me to pass the word on London’s Kantina Café, which until now has been a bit of a secret spot. Read Bryan Lavery’s story on page 16 if you’re not “in the know” yet. And meet TJ and find out why her Addis Ababa Restaurant is winning over fans to Ethiopian dining on page 20. There’s no better way to enjoy our local heritage than through a culinary festival. Quickly, get a Taste of Huron (August 16-27), and then get ready to enjoy the best of Elgin County at FreshFest (August 26) and Savour Stratford (September 18-26, see page 6 for more details). Garlic and tomato fans, rejoice, and check “The Buzz” for events tailored just for you, and more. Yes, there’s much to enjoy locally. For some insight into why this is important politically as well as gastronomically, read the review of Locavore on page 34. If wine is your passion, visit the Quai du Vin Winery with Debra Bagshaw, and Pellar Estates Winery with Rick VanSickle. You’re sure to find a bottle that pleases, then raise a glass to summer and to the bounty that surrounds us. We are blessed. Cheers, Discover Downtown London For more information contact: phone: 519.663.2002 email: [email protected] www.downtownlondon.ca 6 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 FOOD WRITER AT LARGE The Stratford Tourism Alliance By Bryan Lavery S played roles at Stratford. It is not unusual to tratford, Ontario, is not only a cultural see well-known celebrities walking Stratford’s haven for world-class theatre, but streets or frequenting local haunts. In the also for a world-class creative commid-1980s, when I was working at the Church munity, which includes actors, artists, Restaurant, actress Maggie Smith (friend of playwrights, writers, musicians, and many former Artistic Director Robin Phillips) was a uniquely talented professionals, all of whom frequent late-night visitor to the Belfry. Often contribute to the vitality of the community. Stratford has a long history of being a hotbed I would run into her on the street or in the of culinary talent, including farmers, growers, line-up at Canada Trust. Twenty-five years later, Avon Theatre chefs, culinary instruchouse manager Eldon tors and restaurateurs. Gammon remembers Hospitality and the culiJustin Bieber, the “little nary arts are an imporguy with the big voice” tant and integral part of playing his guitar and Stratford’s creative and singing contemporary theatrical community. rock out front for the Stratford is internatheatre crowd. tionally known for the Stratford fortunately Stratford Shakespeare has a tremendous Festival, which runs tourism visionary in from April to November. A street performer entertains the crowd at Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival (SSPCCF) Eugene Zakreski, who The festival’s primary earlier this year added mandate is to present a downloadable guide to Stratford’s tourism repertory productions of William Shakespeare’s plays, but it also produces a diverse website with pop sensation Justin Bieber’s history and local haunts. Zakreski, Executive variety of theatre, from classic Greek tragDirector of the Stratford Tourism Alliance, edies to more contemporary works. The festival has contributed to the formation of a an early adopter of Culinary Tourism, is fordistinctively idiosyncratic dining culture and ward-thinking and recognizes and supports the uniqueness of Perth County’s terroir. restaurant community. Zakreski and his colleagues, Cathy RehSince the festival’s inception in 1953, Stratberg, Danielle Brodhagen and Cathy Bieman, ford has been a magnet for gifted theatrical have successfully helped to reinforce Stratluminaries — many of the greatest Canaford and Perth County’s position as one of dian, British and American stage actors have August/september 2010 Second Annual S.P.L.A.T. Fest 2010 Savouring.PerthCounty.Local.Annual.Tomatoes. Sunday, August 29th, 12–4pm Visit us at mccullys.ca for more details Heirloom Tomato & Cheese Tasting Event, Horse-drawn wagon rides, McCully’s Ketchup, Pazzo grilled pizzas, Canning demos,Tomato Target Practice and more ... A garlic and vegetable grower discussed local produce with market goers at SSPCCF Canada’s unique and distinctive culinary destinations, by collaborating with the region’s farmers and chefs to reinforce a strong authentic food culture and promote culinary tourism in Stratford and Perth County. In fact, the Stratford Tourism Alliance has been repeatedly invited to participate at local and regional culinary events and is presented as “best practice” by the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance. Savour Stratford Perth County is a partnership between Stratford and Perth County tourism and local economic development organizations. The mandate of the Stratford Tourism Alliance is to act as a member and industrydriven private sector not-for-profit organization that manages, develops and publicizes “Destination Stratford” as a national and international tourism destination. Stratford and Perth County’s rich physical heritage, unique terroir, innovative cuisine, superior accommodations, interesting retail sector, and many unique events strengthen the local economy and enrich the quality of life in the City of Stratford and area. Rumour has it that the Stratford Tourism Alliance will be recognized for its contribution to culinary tourism at the 2010 Culinary Thought Leadership World Summit in Halifax this September. “This summit is designed to foster leadership in the culinary tourism industry and to exchange ideas and feedback from around the world,” says conference emcee and president of the International Culinary Tourism Association (ICTA), Erik Wolf. Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival (SSPCCF) In 2008, with a limited programme and little promotion, the almost sold-out Savour Online ordering with FREE DELIVERY across Southwestern Ontario www.thewholepig.ca 8 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 Stratford Tasting event exceeded its modest expectations by almost 200. A request for additional funding for $7,000 for logistics had been turned down by city council. Ironically and more significantly, key culinary Sweet treats are presented at the SSPCCF policy makers and influencers, including high-profile Toronto chefs and the culinary media spread the news about the unqualified success, importance and quality of the tasting event as compared to similar events in Ontario. We service all major household appliances. 519-601-1050 mrappliance.com/london Locally owned and operated franchise. August/september 2010 In 2009, Zakreski initiated a three-year culinary tourism project development strategy, which has been wildly successful. The Stratford Perth County Culinary Tourism campaign is being implemented by Danielle Brodhagen (Programme Development, Stratford Tourism Alliance, and Savour Stratford Perth County), who was the original driving force behind the inaugural Savour Stratford Tasting event. Organizers anticipate as many as 10,000 visitors per day at this year’s event. The Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival, now in its third year, presents nine days of food from September 18 to 26, beginning with the Garlic Festival on September 18, where you can dine out at any number of restaurants featuring local “Field to Chef” garlic-inspired menus. The Garlic Festival is followed by a week of culinary events, dinners and activities, culminating in the popular two-day festival September 25–26 along the banks of the Avon River. According to the Stratford Tourism Alliance, the third annual Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival promises to be bigger and better than ever with significantly enhanced programming. The signature event of the popular festival is the Savour Stratford Tasting, which takes place on Sunday, September 26. The Savour Stratford Tasting pairs local chefs with Perth County producers to create delicious Perth County terroir-inspired samplings. VQA wines and local craft brews will accompany over 30 samples that are designed to delight gastronomes and foodies alike. It is also possible to experience Perth County’s terroir at the Stratford Farmers’ Market every Saturday and Wednesdays in the Summer or the Slow Food Market at Monforte Dairy, featuring everything from local eggs to elk, pork, sheep’s milk cheese and cider. The Stratford Farmers’ Market, established in 1855, is one of the longest continual links in Stratford’s culinary history. For 2010, VIP tickets have been created for the much-sought-after Savour Stratford Tasting. This will provide an exclusive opportunity for early entry into the tasting tent and a unique chance to preview the highly anticipated culinary creations. VIP guests are invited to join the chefs and producers at noon on Sunday — before the event opens to general ticket holders at 1:00 p.m. — and will also receive a Savour Stratford gift tote, August/september 2010 Savour Stratford Tasting visitors enjoy the delicious bites prepared by Farmer-Chef teams and paired with VQA Ontario wines which includes a Tasting Plate handcrafted by local pottery artist, Chris Lass. Enjoy an afternoon of sipping and sampling in the heart of Stratford’s garden district. Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival Itinerary Saturday, September 18: nine days of festivities will be launched with Stratford’s annual Garlic Festival. The festival celebrating the “stinking rose” showcases the versatility of Ontario garlic. Elizabeth Baird, editor for Canadian Living magazine, leads an impressive list of speakers and cooking demonstrators, including cookbook author Rose Murray. Activities take place from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at the Old Stratford Fairgrounds on Glastonbury Drive. Admission is $5 per person Let us introduce you to our spirits! Inject a little spirit into a walking tour of Stratford’s heritage pubs. You’ll visit Stratford’s first brewery, then a variety of pubs in heritage buildings. There will be tastings at each stop. Cost: $25 per person which includes tastings at each stop. Sunday, September 19: Visit selected farms throughout Perth County, which will be presenting a variety of products grown and raised on their farms. This Perth County Farm Tour encourages families to make the connection between what they eat and where it comes from. The bus tour includes a local Perth County picnic lunch. $25 for adults and $12 for kids (10 and under). Sunday night City Centre Committee presents Movies in the Square – Screening of Ratatouille at the Stratford City Hall 7pm Free. Monday, September 20 (and Wed. and Fri., all at 2 p.m.) — Edible Stratford Tour. Join your culinary connoisseur on a guided culinary walking tour of Stratford’s food shops, meet the local producers and sample delicious treats. Tours take place Monday, Wednesday and Friday of this week starting at 2:00 pm at the Stratford Tourism Office. Tickets are $15 per person. Monday September 20, Gallery Stratford presents “Shake Your Martini” – Learn to make three martinis using fresh and local ingredients – Be sure to Dress to your Nines! Schmooze, Mingle and Sip! Wednesday, September 22, 8pm — “Feast of Comedy” featuring Marc Sinodinos of NBC Today’s Show and Larry Smith of Comedy Club at 54 Join us for an evening of laughs at the Savour Stratford comedy night at the Stratford City Hall. Limited Tickets. Thursday, September 23, 8 p.m. — Pubs, Pilsner and Spirits Tour. Chef meticulously adds the finishing touches to the tastes presented at Savour Stratford Tasting Sunday event Friday, September 24, 7 p.m. — Beerology 101 with Beer Expert Mirella Amato. Learn about basic beer ingredients and how beer is made, while tasting through a series of contrasting and delicious local artisanal brews. The workshop is at the new University of Waterloo, Stratford campus, in downtown Stratford. $15 per person. 10 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 Friday, September 24 7 p.m. — Docfest and Savour Stratford Present Tableland at Factory163. Craig Noble’s Tableland will be screened for the first time in Stratford; guests from the film will answer questions and promote discussion around local food. Cash bar available. Admission is free. Friday, 9 p.m. — Launch Party. After a week of activity, we’re ready to party. Meet at Foster’s Inn for a fun evening preview to the two-day festival. Complimentary cocktail and hors d’oeuvres will be provided. August/september 2010 garden party and dine on over 30 local delicacies crafted by over 30 acclaimed chefs. The local cuisine will be paired with Ontario VQA vintages and craft brews, and accompanied by French Canadian Artist, Amelie Chante and Les Singes Bleus. New for 2010 is a VIP Ticket providing early entry to interact with local chefs and producers and a take-away Savour Stratford gift bag, which includes a Tasting Plate handcrafted by local pottery artist, Chris Lass. Tickets are on sale now and can be purchased online, by phone or in person. Saturday, September 25 — The BRYAN LAVERY is Festival gets into full swing with a a respected local chef and diverse roster of events featuring writer, proponent of Lonthe best of Perth County. Events don’s culinary tourism initiastart at 9:00 a.m., so plan to arrive tive, culinary consultant, and early to browse the Farmers and instructor. Lavery recently Artisans Market set along the authored Taste London, banks of the Avon River. You will Tourism London’s 2010-11 be entertained throughout the day culinary guide. As eatdrink’s Fresh herbs and locally-made products at SSPCCF at the York Street Carnival, the Contributing Editor and Food Kids’ BBQ, and Blues and Brews Writer at Large, Lavery shares his expertise and opinions on a evening with a live Blues band. Sunday, September 26 — The Savour Stratford Tasting, the centerpiece of the festive weekend, takes place from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. Set under tents along the Avon River, you will enjoy the culinary wide variety of subjects. Follow his blog at: londonontarioculinarytourist.blogspot.com Local le! , h s e r F Availab Garlic For recipes and more, visit: August/september 2010 issue no. 24 www.eatdrink.ca 11 SPOTLIGHT Being Bradshaws Stratford’s Fresh Inspiration, for Years By David Hicks B efore Ramsay, before Jamie, before Martha, even way before Julia, there was Bradshaws — a cook’s oasis in Stratford that’s still on its game after 115 years and six generations of owners. If anything, the allure and relevance for inhouse foodies is stronger than ever. If you haven’t been there in a while, it’s time to be good to yourself and drop in. At the front door, you’ll see the store’s new manifesto gently announcing Bradshaws’ quality commitment to their customers, an up-front statement pretty well summed up with their catchphrase: “Buy it once and buy it well.” In our throwaway culture, this approach is in counterstep, along with the slow/ local/100-mile insurgency where a satisfied soul trumps expediency. Changes inside the store reflect this too. “Carrie and I changed the store’s emphasis when we took over in 2006,” says Jeremy, the third generation of Wrefords, who bought the store in 1975 from the Bradshaw dynasty. “Traditional, gifty items and collectibles aren’t going away, but with celebrity chefs and cooking channels, people’s interests have changed, so the store has changed. They want practicality, durability, selection, and especially good design — it’s got to look good out on the counter.” Hot Cookware So in addition to the obvious, like this year’s hot colour for Le Creuset cookware (Cassis), you’ll find high-quality alternatives like Staub and Emile Henry. Same with their decision to carry several lines of German knives alongside Japanese names like Shun and MAC. “Our staff has real depth of experience and product knowledge,” says Carrie Wreford. “Some of them have over twenty years’ experience here, and you can tell they genuinely enjoy helping our customers make decisions.” But not everything in the store is for the cognoscenti. There are gadgets and gizmos for as little as a dollar, left-handed wooden utensils that just feel right, and guidance for choosing a pepper mill that will actually Carrie and Jeremy Wreford put Bradshaws’ commitment to their customers out front, quite literally. 12 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 balsamic vinegars, and local stars like Moss Berry Farm’s jams from Embro and Hensall’s The Garlic Box [see story on page 24]. Is there a tagine in tangerine? If there is, it’ll be at Bradshaws. last. (Carrie helped me in my quest for a worthy garlic press.) “We emphasize products that improve people’s quality of home life, and even the industry, in some way — like build quality, innovative design, unique materials, price, longevity, green values and so on,” says Carrie. “I love Jeremy’s ‘buy once, buy well’ line – one of the greenest things you can do is not buy stuff you’ll throw out in a couple of years.” Besides well-known international and Canadian names like Umbra, the Wrefords ferret out hard-to-get lines like cutting boards, bowls and burls by Stratford artisan Don Stinson; pepper mills made with found wood by Cam Laver in Erin; and Québecois items such as Tom Littledeer’s hand-hewn cooking paddles and spatulas, and fine Porcelaines Bouquet. For the discerning and/or hard-to-buyfor, the expanding specialty food section features items like estate-bottled olive oils and The Wrefords seek out unique Canadian lines, such as these pepper mills made from found wood by Cam Laver in Erin ON. Urban Family Values Although Jeremy grew up with Bradshaws, it didn’t interest him until after years of living and working in Toronto, where he and Carrie met and married. “It felt like it was the right time to come back,” says Jeremy, who holds a degree in interior design. “And the store has become more and more a personal expression — our own family life emanates from the kitchen, we use the things we sell at home, and the store has largely become our lifestyle.” For a stylish young urban family, with Carrie’s visual media background including graphic design for Roots, the move back to Stratford explains the experiential, designdriven choices for the store. “Bradshaws is such a part of how we think now,” she says. “When we’re out to dinner, shopping, on vacation, at tradeshows in Toronto, Chicago or Paris, I keep seeing things and thinking, ‘We should carry those… We could do that kind of display.’” “She’s forever taking pictures.” Jeremy rolls his eyes with a smile. After four decades of southwestern Ontario downtowns imploding, surely a key component of the continuing success of August/september 2010 �or a Specializing in Continental Cuisine, prepared with a local flair. Menus change frequently, as each season inspires new delicacies from our region’s bounty. Extensive, well-rounded and reasonably-priced wine list. Carrie, Jeremy and their staff know their French cookware, like this Emile Henry line. Bradshaws and others in Stratford’s core is the spirited creativity applied by local, entrepreneurial, non-cookie-cutter businesses. Being family-owned raises the stakes. “We came into this with the advantage of a century of Bradshaws’ momentum, but no one can rest on their laurels these days. I’m in awe of independent business people who are putting themselves out there with something new — small business has gone from ‘risky’ to ‘daredevil.’ ” Sitting in a back office cluttered with product samples, historical Bradshaws photographs and publicity pieces for local food fêtes, Jeremy shrugs. “The Big Boxes and internet shopping are just realities of our time. But agility and active community engagement should enable small businesses to run around the feet of the giants.” Bradshaws 129 Ontario Street, Stratford 519-271-6283 www.bradshawscanada.com DAVID HICKS is a Stratford freelance writer and branding consultant who loves to crush garlic for his wife. Contact him at [email protected]. 14 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 Stratford is more than great theatre. “I made a delicious discovery: Stratford has a culinary obsession. And, for me, finding what I call a ‘food town’ is a rare and magnificent thing ... You’ve got a place that feeds all the senses.” — Marion Kane, Food Writer www.marionkane.com You’ll Notice the Difference! Premium B.C. Halibut FISHANDCHIPS CHIPS Canadian Albacore Tuna Yellow Perch and Pickerel Fresh Cut Fries Eat-in Take-out Patio Homemade Chowders Local Salads Fresh Seafood Sweet Potato Plank Fries 118 Downie Street. Celiac Friendly Menu Stratford 519.275.0400 Made Fresh to Order! www.simplefishandchips.ca SIMPLE. THINK GREEN Recycle Compost Bio-Degradable Ocean Wise™ Recommended by the Vancouver Aquarium as ocean-friendly seafood choice August/september 2010 issue no. 24 w w w.b ent ley s - annex .c om Executive Loft Suites 5 1 9 - 271 - 1 1 2 1 1 - 8 0 0 - 36 1 - 5 3 2 2 99 Ontario Street downtown Stratford A fabulous place to spend the night! www.eatdrink.ca 15 16 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 RESTAURANTS A Chic and Stellar Taste of Serbia London’s Kantina Café is drawing rave reviews By Bryan Lavery T here’s a new game in town: a contemporary, upscale Serbian hot spot serving great food. This new arrival on the restaurant scene is stylish, streamlined and urban chic. The concept was designed by Miljan Karac and his wife Bojana, who operate the restaurant. The newly renovated space on Talbot Street, formerly occupied by Libido, has a clean, modern style and features a fresh and contemporary take on international and traditional Serbian cuisine. The restaurant’s logo and signage communicate not only the owners’ personalities and originality, but also their unique sense of style. The room itself is both striking and attractive, with brown leather lounge seating transitioning into spacious wood block tables, white leather banquette seating, and simple but stylishly comfortable chairs. On one wall, a series of identical gold-framed mirrors reflect the reclaimed heritage yellow brick wall opposite them. For those looking for a cocktail or a cafe au lait, there’s a small bar at the back of the room with seating for six. The kitchen is on the small side, but Karac has plans to The Lounge area Stylish, streamlined and urban chic enlarge it. Lively, modern Serbian and Balkan Gypsy music plays in the background. Restaurant insiders agree that this restaurant is noteworthy. “Chef Danijel Markovic is not only talented but he is cooking some of the most delicious food in the city,” said one prominent local chef, and several other chefs concurred. Kantina currently ranks among the top restaurants in London for a truly superb and innovative culinary experience. A hop, skip and a jump from the John Labatt Centre and around the corner from King Street’s hip restaurant row, Katina has a very bright future, but so far it has remained relatively unnoticed by the local dining set. I predict that this is about to change. Karac tells me, “Serbian cuisine has many culinary cultural influences, including the Byzantine Empire/Greek, Turkish and AustroHungarian cuisines.” This certainly make sense, as Serbia borders Hungary to the north; Bulgaria and Romania to the east; Macedonia to the south; and Croatia , Bosnia , Herzegovina and Montenegro to the west. Serbia’s capital city, Belgrade, is among the most populous in Southeastern Europe. August/september 2010 issue no. 24 Serbian cuisine is interesting and continues to evolve from the Slavonic traditions moulded by the tumultuous changes and influences it has experienced over the years. In recent times, the very large Serbian diaspora has helped popularize Serbian cuisine across the world, and here in London, we have approximately 3,500 Serbians living in the city. Food preparation is a strong part of the Balkan family heritage. In Serbia and Croatia, unlike other European countries, food is usually homemade, prepared by families for their members only. Many of the foods that we might typically buy in the grocery store are often painstakingly handmade at home. The reasons for this range from personal expressions of the culture to the preservation of secret family traditions. Out of a sense of necessity and economics, many ingredients and recipes have become cultural icons. Serbian cuisine is characterized by such idiosyncratic ingredients as kajmak (clotted cream); ajavar, a traditional relish made www.eatdrink.ca 17 Wood block tables, white leather banquette seating, and simple but stylishly comfortable chairs. from red bell peppers, eggplant, garlic and chilli peppers; sir, a generic term for a variety of semi-hard white cheeses made from sheep’s milk and kept in brine (feta-style); and two very distinct types of yogurt — one from cow’s milk and a more luxurious one made from sheep’s milk. Chef Markovic, who is new to both London and the English language, comes out of Kantina’s kitchen to speak personally to Giving You Two More Reasons to Shop Local Western Fair Farmers’ Market C The Heart of Old East Village Masonville Place Market North London’s Fresh Alternative ome Visit During th Us Western F e air! September �� to �� Organic and Local Produce • Bakers • Butchers • Cheesemongers • Flowers • Food Artisans • Artists • Craftspeople • Flea & Antique Market Masonville Place Market Western Fair Farmers’ Market Fridays 8am-2pm (May to October) Fanshawe Park Road at Richmond Street Every Saturday 8am-3pm Dundas Street East at Ontario Street Plenty of Free Parking • www.londonsfarmersmarket.ca 18 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 the restaurant’s patrons. Markovic is able to communicate his artistry, a passion for food and his mastery of ingredients before the food ever arrives at the table. Arrive it does, on beautiful dinnerware that complements his creations. Chef tells me that the visual attractiveness of each dish is important, and he certainly strikes a fine balance of colour, texture and proportion. Markovic likes a challenge and has offered us, on several visits to the restaurant, a “trust me” menu featuring some very interesting, delicious and unusual flavour combinations. There is an innate originality to his cooking style. Chef Markovic, who is a mere 22 years old, was born in Croatia. In his early youth, he was interested in cooking and worked with his mother in the kitchen. After graduating from a culinary high school in Belgrade, Serbia, Markovic entered a hotel/culinary college where gastronomy was his main focus. He studied and worked at the same time. After graduating from college, he was hired at the Hyatt Regency (5-star) hotel in Belgrade as a line cook. His natural talent and abilities quickly propelled him into the position of line chef. This advancement allowed Markovic the opportunity to be mentored by many international chefs (Italian, Australian, German, Indian and Sri Lankan). The hotel’s dining room menus featured modern interpretations from China, Japan, Malaysia and Vietnam, bringing an eclectic approach to classic dishes from each country’s cuisine. You can see these influences from time to time in Markovic’s cooking. Chef’s veal soup with finely diced root vegetables, sour cream and white turnip is truly a revelation and a testament to the Chef’s tremendous talent and his ability to layer many flavours with great effect. An upscale/rustic cream of potato and leek soup with toasted almonds, crunch bacon, tiny shrimp and truffle oil is out of this world. One of the chef’s signature specialties is Karadjordjeva (Black George Schnitzel), a August/september 2010 delicious rolled fried pork schnitzel with kajmak stuffing. Chef also does a delicious hamburger and fantastic sandwiches, but prefers more challenging fare, such as his perfectly cooked stuffed calamari accompanied by black (squid ink) risotto. On one occasion, a chilled, luxurious Several dishes demonstrating Chef Danijel Markovic’s creative take on Serbian cuisine: (TOP) Fresh Tomato Soup (homemade ricotta, basil and pesto); (MIDDLE) Cream Potato and Leek Soup with toasted almonds; and (BOTTOM) Fresh Strawberry Soup. August/september 2010 Serbian-style Stuffed Pepper strawberry purée with balsamico that has both sweet and sour elements arrives after dinner for dessert. On another occasion, smooth fudgy pot au crème, topped with mousse and flavoured with cloves and star anise, is accompanied by a whimsical jam pot of strawberry purée and a chocolate tuille. The menu changes seasonally, prices are affordable and the wine list is modest. Kantina also serves a delicious breakfast on Saturday and Sunday mornings. Kantina Café Talbot Street, London 519-672-5862 www.kantina.ca Also on Facebook hours of operation tuesday–thursday: 10 am–10 pm friday: 10 am–closing saturday: 9 am–closing sunday: 9 am–6 pm monday: closed BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known local chef, former restaurateur, culinary instructor, and an avid proponent of the regional culinary scene. As both Contributing Editor and “Food Writer at Large” for eatdrink, he shares his thoughts and opinions on a wide spectrum of the culinary beat. 20 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 RESTAURANTS Out of Africa TG’s Addis Ababa Restaurant, in London By Bryan Lavery I t’s an inconspicuous restaurant on Dundas Street between Burwell and Maitland, and directly across from London’s popular Latino Market. Inside, forget the fading travel posters that line the walls. Just close your eyes and savour the exquisite aromas emanating from the nearby tables and the kitchen. For the last seven years, TG’s Addis Ababa Restaurant has offered an authentic cook’s tour of Ethiopia. As in much of Africa, hospitality is important in Ethiopia, and at TG’s Addis Ababa it is paramount. TG and her extended family look forward to “spending some precious moments with you.” Regulars, restaurant insiders, and the vegetarian crowd are TG holds her daughter, seated between her husband Sam and his known to flock to this off-the-beatenmother in traditional Ethiopian dress, ready for a family meal. track restaurant, for reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed Ethiopian cuisine back millennia. Addis Ababa (meaning “new in a homey and hospitable environflower” in Amharic) is the largest city in ment. And Ethiopian expats and many local Ethiopia, with a population about the size of taxicab drivers who know more than a thing Metropolitan Toronto. Comprising an area or two about great Ethiopian cooking are often on hand. Often, TG, the gracious owner, of tremendous geographical diversity where is both chef and server herself. TG’s husband 70 languages are spoken, Ethiopia repreSam speaks proudly of the restaurant and his sents a very diverse population, and its food culture varies regionally. However, there are wife’s many accomplishments. Ethiopia is an ancient, landlocked country a few culinary staples that remain hallmarks of the cuisine, such as berbere and injera. in East Africa, with a history that stretches August/september 2010 issue no. 24 www.eatdrink.ca 21 Berbere (pronounced bari baray) is a brick-red mixture of spices which include chile peppers, ginger, cloves, coriander, allspice, rue berries and ajwain. This spice mixture is a central ingredient in the cuisines of both Ethiopia and Eritrea and adds a succulent heat and piquant kick to many dishes. Many years ago, my introduction to berbere by local Eritrean cook, Ghenet Ethiopian cuisine is generaly Abahara, gave me designed to be shared. my first inkling of the Whether it be a meat essential role and dish (ABOVE), a subtle complexity vegetarian selection played by spicing in (BELOW), or a East African cuisine. combination of the Ethiopian cuisine two (CENTRE), the is thought to be greatly influinjera flatbread is enced by the Indian masalas, central to the dish, with their combinations of serving as both a dried (and usually dry-roasted) platter and eating hot spices, or pastes made utensil. from ground spice mixtures mes Meat Deliingredients — often and& other Version #2 onion, garlic and ginger. Another hallmark of East African cuisine is injera, the flatbread that Ad Size: 1/4 Vto both Ethiopian and Eritrean is central Issue cuisine. #: 23 Spongy in texture and crèpe-like in appearance, es Rep: Loretta injera has a sourdough taste to it.May Traditionally made out of fermented Date: 30 tef, injera is used as both the serving platter and eating utensil. Protocol dictates tearing pieces of injera off with your right hand, wrapping it around the meat or stew, and Try This Months Feature then popping the injera into your mouth. No other utensils are used. Various entrees Delicious Bruschetta and and side dishes are placed decoratively and Parmesan Stuffed Chicken Breast served directly onto the injera, allowing it for the BBQ to absorb individual flavours and spices. Dishes are always accompanied by extra Perfect for Parties & Cottage Vacations or injera to scoop up the food with. Start the Just at Home with the Family! meal by tearing off a piece of injera then use it to scoop up some food. #1 Ethiopian meat dishes fall mostly into We have a two distinct categories: red stews (wat), BBQ Pig Roaster which include berbere, and green stews Available to Rent (alicha wat), which do not. Wats are propFor Special Events erly prepared with a generous amount of chopped onions, which the cook simmers 519-268-0500 or sautés in a pot. Onions are fried without 4218 Catherine St., Dorchester oil, which gives then a distinct taste cenShort Drive from London tral to Ethiopian cuisine. Once the onions www.thamesmeatanddeli.com have softened, the cook adds niter kebbeh, 22 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 a clarified butter infused with ginger, garlic vegetarian dishes, with a large repertoire of and other ground spices. TG’s menu includes deliciously spiced preparations and beautiseveral types of meat dishes, such as Quanta fully balanced flavours, based on lentils, Fer-Fer, which is strips of marinated grilled split peas, chickpeas and other pulses. At beef, prepared with hot red pepper sauce and TG’s Addis Ababa, defen misir, delicious mixed with injera. Another green lentils traditionAddis Ababa specialty is ally seasoned and cooked dulet kitfo, which consists with onion and possibly of freshly minced, very lean turmeric, has become one beef, mixed and cooked of the restaurant’s most with clarified butter, onion, popular vegetarian dishes. jalapeño and the traditional Coffee originated in spice mixture mitmita (an Ethiopia, and drinking indigenous hot crushed traditional coffee at TG’s orange-red or yellow pepper Addis Ababa is a ceremony spice mixture that contains in itself. TG tells me, ground cardamom seed, “Ethiopians hand-roast cloves and salt). their coffee, often bringing TG’s menu is designed out a pan of sizzling ripe to eat à la carte or comgreen coffee beans so that munally, and TG guides the their guests can first smell uninitiated to select from a the aroma.” After roastmenu of elaborately spiced ing, the coffee is ground, TG’s is a family-friendly place and very fresh vegetarian, then boiled in a clay pot. chicken and beef dishes. Often the hostess will sit Sharing a selection of delicious dishes that on a stool in front of a low table and burn have been expertly arranged on a common incense. The coffee pot is left to rest until the platter for two, three, or more — the tradigrinds settle to the bottom, then the coffee is tional way to eat a meal in Ethiopia — is a poured into tiny cups and served with sugar. convivial introduction to the cuisine. The hostess will make a second pot using Ethiopian restaurants are a popular the same grinds, and the process will be choice for vegetarians. Traditional Ethiopian repeated. Often a third pot will be made. cuisine employs no pork of any kind, as most TG’s dining room has recently been expanded, and there is a small bar near the kitchen door with additional seating. TG is also well-known as a local caterer of fine Ethiopian cuisine. TG’s Addis Ababa Restaurant 465 Dundas Street (at Maitland), London 519-433-4222 www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.ca Enjoy Ethiopian Coffee Ceremonies Ethiopians are Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, Muslims or Jews. Orthodox Christian Ethiopians traditionally eat a strict vegetarian diet twice a week, so Ethiopian cuisine has developed a large variety of complex hours of operation tuesday–saturday: 11 am–10 pm sunday: 2 pm–9 pm closed Mondays BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known local chef, former restaurateur, culinary instructor, and an avid proponent of the regional culinary scene. As both Contributing Editor and “Food Writer at Large” for eatdrink, he shares his thoughts and opinions on a wide spectrum of the culinary beat. August/september 2010 issue no. 24 www.eatdrink.ca 23 24 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 SPOTLIGHT Ontario Garlic Finds a Growing Market Jackie Rowe and The Garlic Box, in Hensall By Jill Ellis-Worthington T he concept of terroir has long been used for wine and is now often applied to other types of agriproducts. But garlic? This ancient plant is used in virtually every culture to add flavour to food and is valued for its medicinal qualities, for sure, but applying the same principles of climate, soil and topography as fine wines to this humble bulb? Really? Jackie Rowe does just that. Her enterprise, The Garlic Box, has gone from being a two-person operation with minimal sales to employing twelve staffers and grossing a million dollars a year. Rowe is stunned by the growth, but as a garlic fan herself, she isn‘t surprised by the popularity of Ontario garlic. “The soil, the air, the climate here all mean that we have the best-tasting garlic,” says Rowe, reflecting on the concept of terroir as it applies to her products. Based in Hensall, The Garlic Box takes the produce of twelve acres — 50,000 pounds of garlic — from a local farmer and turns it into forty products sold across Canada in over a thousand retail outlets. From salad dressings and seasonings to splashes (to enhance meat, poultry, vegetables and salads) and bread dips, Rowe wholesales nationally and internationally, and sells via internet to the U.S. and Britain. The Garlic Box came from another enterprise that Jackie and her husband Jim were part of thirteen years ago. “Jim planted an acre of garlic with some partners,” she explains. That garlic was replanted and one acre turned into seven, leading to a co-op for developing and promoting Ontario garlic. “The Garlic Box was developed as the marketing branch of that enterprise,” says Jackie. She would take the bulbs not perfect enough for selling on their own and experiment with them. An interior designer by profession but an avid cook by choice, Rowe started developing innovative products featuring Ontario garlic. When the garlic market took a dive in 2000 with catastrophic crop loss and a bad agri- Jackie Rowe economy, the co-op failed. Jackie pulled The Garlic Box out of the ashes and built it into the thriving business of today. She came up with the intriguing name, as well. Packing the freshly picked bulbs into wooden boxes usually meant for shipping apples, Rowe took her inspiration from these useful containers. Ontario garlic is a hard-neck variety called Music garlic, named for Al Music, a former tobacco farmer who started growing it in the mid-1980s. It is planted in October and harvested in early to mid-July, depending on the spring weather. After drying, the year’s fresh crop is usually available in August. A garlic jelly was one of Rowe’s first products on the market. “I took it to a street fair in St. Mary’s and [sold $300 worth] that day. That was the beginning,” she says, smiling. A savvy local retailer spotted Rowe’s products at an early debut in Stratford. Jill Wilcox of Jill’s Table is a nationally syndicated columnist and author of three cookbooks, August/september 2010 with a fourth coming out soon. She’s impressed with the quality of Rowe’s products. “She takes so much time and care with what she produces,” says Wilcox. Jill’s Table carries more than a dozen of The Garlic Box’s products, which are top sellers in the store. Passionate about local agribusiness, Rowe has partnered with other Ontario producers to diversify the company’s lines. For instance, Niagara wine is one ingredient in Winter Garlic Cloves in Chardonnay; local organic apple cider is used in the Apple and Cider Vinaigrette; and horseradish grown in the Delhi area is used in two products: Horseradish Garlic Seasoning Mix and Garlic Horseradish Potato Seasoning. “You’ve got to be able to offer a huge line,” says Rowe, as she strives to have a wide audience appeal. She is working on two new products: bringing back garlic jelly and developing three flavours of garlic paste. Describing herself as “cooking all the time,” this diminutive dynamo has an eye on food trends to ensure that her line is growing and reflecting what people want to eat. 26 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 Rowe describes garlic scapes as “the new parsley. You can use them in soups, Recipe courtesy of The Garlic Box sauces and dips.” These long bean-like veggies are an Garlic packs a flavour punch! 1 Rim glass with lemon juice inherent part of the hardClamato rimmer and Clamato rimmer. Place neck garlic. Rowe says they 1¼ ounce vodka ice cubes in glass. grow out of the neck as a Clamato juice result of the bulbs being 2 Pour vodka, Worcestershire 1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire stressed by our cold winters sauce, Garlic Steak Splash sauce — not unimaginable if your and lemon juice over ice, add 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice evolutionary parent was from Clamato juice, and stir well. dash of Tabasco sauce the Middle East. 1 dash of Garlic Steak Splash 3 Garnish with a toothpick Scapes are used in some of celery stalk topped with Garlic Stick in The Garlic Box’s products, like Garlic Sticks in olives Olive, and add celery stalk. garlic relish with scapes and roasted garlic oil with garlic Since her products are offered in higherscapes, but fresh ones are also end food shops, Rowe emphasizes that available. Rowe recommends a recipe from “Ontario garlic offers added value. It has the website that sees the chef mixing scapes the high-quality nutritional profile.” This is and green beans. My partner tried a simpler equally true of the garlic scapes. Garlic is approach: he blanched them in boiling water good for you — no doubt about it! for a minute, then tossed them into a pan with If you’re motoring up Highway 4 toward some olive oil, butter, and coarse salt and pepper for a few minutes. It’s delicious with chicken Lake Huron, make a stop at The Garlic Box in Hensall or pick up some of their products at a cooked on the barbecue, doused with some of gourmet store for your next barbecue. The Garlic Box’s Chilli Lime Chicken Splash. The Ultimate Bloody Caesar August/september 2010 issue no. 24 www.eatdrink.ca 27 The Garlic Box London Rd., Hwy. #, Hensall, ON 1-888-772-9994 or 1-519-262-2470 www.thegarlicbox.com store hours: mon to fri 9–5 p.m. In Ontario, products from The Garlic Box can be found at retailers from Aberfoyle to Zurich, including Remark Farms, Angelo’s Italian Bakery, Bradshaws in Stratford, and the Clay Gourmet in Bayfield. Garlic Scapes JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON is a freelance writer and chief communicator for Write.On Communication Services International (www.writedoton.com). New H Honey oney yC Crop ro op N Now ow O On nT Tap! Bring in your favourite container and we’ll fill ’er up! 28 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 BOOKS The Man Who Ate the World In Search of the Perfect Dinner by Jay Rayner Review By Darin Cook A fter a career in journalism, covering stories like the Bernardo/Homolka murder trial, Jay Rayner became restaurant critic for the London Observer, with the prospect of fancy food offering a respite from heavier topics. Noticing that highend restaurants were cropping up everywhere, Rayner recently headed out to eat in seven cities across the globe. The results are The Man Who Ate the World: In Search of the Perfect Dinner (Henry Holt & Company, 2008, $28). Starting in Las Vegas, at a time when the restaurant scene is graduating from its customary all-you-can-eat buffets to gourmet restaurants, Rayner samples the type of cooking from Wolfgang Puck and Joel Robuchon that is intended to launch Vegas into a destination known for more than its gambling. Rayner’s wit is sharp, and his cynical observations are laugh-out-loud funny, but the book is as much a cultural critique of the cities he visits as a look at their cuisine. He is told that food coming into Dubai has quality issues due to Islamic laws, which sounds absurd given that the Dubai tourism-crazed juggernaut attracts the best chefs to run the most exclusive restaurants. But this doesn’t prevent Rayner’s food experiences from being unmemorable and inauthentic as he eats a poor attempt at Swiss fondue while watching people ski on snow inside a mall in a 74-degree desert. Rayner never strays far from his political background. His trip to Moscow focuses as much on August/september 2010 issue no. 24 the Mafia-style criminal activity as on the food, with restaurants riddled not only with expensive meals, but also the bullet holes of “businessmotivated assassinations” and a decadent elitism that he attributes back to Soviet times. In Tokyo, he fears that Japanese chefs are giving him all the weird stuff “that nobody ever eats to see whether I’d be too polite to refuse.” Rayner holds a personal philosophy that you must try everything once, if only to say you don’t like it, even if that means trying lavender ice cream in green bean soup. His restaurant experiences tend toward the outlandish and extravagantly expensive. He makes no bones about the conspicuous consumption of modern restaurants. He flirts with meals rumoured to be $1,000 a head, and in New York indulges in champagne that he labels “remortgage-the-house champagne.” This type of garish spending causes him to wonder whether Michelin-starred restaurants exist only to please greedy eaters with no monetary limits. This questioning of a career that pursues the love of expensive food leads to one last hurrah in Paris to taste-test seven restaurants in seven days. He likes some, abhors others, and ends his last night shaking his head at a $1,250 bill. He believes there are flashes of perfection throughout his trips, including L’Astrance in Paris and a sushi meal in Tokyo, but Rayner concludes that his quest may go unfulfilled because perfection is based on individual tastes and appetites. On a more personal level, he says, “My pursuit of the perfect meal was doomed to failure because I had been conducting it in entirely the wrong company, which is to say, my own.” This is when he returns to his hometown of London, England to dine at his favourite restaurants with his wife, making the statement that dining with the right person can make a meal taste better. It is these personal touches from Rayner’s life that make his globetrotting narrative most enjoyable. Even while dining in establishments once frequented by the Rat Pack in Vegas or the Russian first lady in Moscow, he attributes his www.eatdrink.ca 29 family’s long love affair with food for his good fortune of having a job that consists of eating in restaurants. But what should we expect from an man who tells us that one of his most lasting memories of childhood is sneaking away alone on a school trip four nights in a row to eat escargot in a nearby French restaurant instead of skiing with his friends? DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who keeps himself well read and well fed by visiting the bookstores and restaurants of London. $PNNVOJUJFT*O#MPPNi1SFUUJFTU*O5PXOw"XBSE 3FDPNNFOEFEJOi8IFSF5P&BUw &BU4NBSU"XBSEPG&YDFMMFODF 4QJSJUPG4VDDFTT)PTQJUBMJUZ"XBSE 0VS$IFG5FSSZ,FOOFEZDSFBUFTmOFDVJTJOFVTJOHUIF GSFTIFTUTFBTPOBMBOEMPDBMJOHSFEJFOUT0VSCFBVUJGVM 7JDUPSJBOIPVTFPąFSTUIFQFSGFDUTFUUJOHUPFOKPZMVODI EJOOFSXJUIFYDFMMFOUGPPEXJOFBOETFSWJDF )BNJMUPO4USFFU(PEFSJDI0OUBSJP ] ] XXXUIZNFPODPN 30 www.eatdrink.ca • Lakefront / Sandy beach • 9 luxury bedrooms • Ensuite bathrooms • Indoor saltwater pool • Hot tub & sauna • Plus Off-site Cottages [email protected] issue no. 24 August/september 2010 • Shop • Stay • Play Dine Enjoy Ontario’s West Coast Clair on the Square B&B A relaxed and relaxing experience in Downtown Bayfield �2 The Square, Bayfield ���-���-���� Open Spring, Summer & Fall 3 Lovely Rooms with Private Baths www.claironthesquare.com August/september 2010 www.eatdrink.ca 31 issue no. 24 Loved by generations for our famous créme-filled donuts. Try our fresh breads and pastries baked in our authentic ����’s oven, madewith withcare careand and oven,made dedication to a quality product. Hess enland Country Inn Sunset Soirée Red Pump the Bayfield, Ontario Canada N0M 1G0 Most Romantic Guest Suites & Gourmet Cuisine suites@ theredpumpinn.com 32 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 Elgin County has an abundance of great culinary destinations, and we’re ready to show them off. From fine dining, quaint bistros and unique tea rooms to casual diners and delis, Elgin County’s restaurants will satisfy every taste. Travel our culinary trail and visit award-winning wineries, pick-up the freshest produce at roadside markets, and take a stroll through a field of lavender. You can also visit Elgin’s own microbrewery, take a cooking class in a historic bank, experience adventure at a bee farm, and so much more. Savour the tastes of Elgin County. For information on the Savour Elgin Program, call 1-877-GO ELGIN x137 or visit www.savourelgin.ca Members of Savour Elgin August/september 2010 Clovermead Bees & Honey 11302 Imperial Road N, Aylmer tXXXDMPWFSNFBEDPN Empire Valley Farm Market & Greenhouses 27983 Talbot Line, RR #1 Wallacetown tXXXFNQJSFWBMMFZGBSNTDPN Farmgate Markets Deli & Fresh Meat 310 Wellington Street, St. Thomas tXXXGBSNHBUFNBSLFUDPN Heritage Line Herbs & Silver Birch Tearoom 53443 Heritage Line, RR #1 Aylmer ttXXXIFSJUBHFMJOFIFSCTDPN Horton Farmers’ Market Manitoba Street (just north of Talbot Street), St. Thomas tXXXIPSUPOGBSNFSTNBSLFUCMPHTQPUDPN Kettle Creek Inn 216 Joseph Street, Port Stanley ttXXXLFUUMFDSFFLJOODPN Killer Desserts 291 Bridge Street, Port Stanley ttXXXLJMMFSEFTTFSUTDPN Lavender Blue Lavender Farm 47589 Sparta Line, RR #5 Aylmer tXXXMBWFOEFSCMVFDB Mad Hatters Tea Room / Quaker Barrel 47272 Talbot Line, RR #3 St. Thomas tXXXRVBLFSCBSSFMDPN Pinecroft Pottery & Green Frog Tearoom 8122 Rogers Road S, RR #5 Aylmer tXXXQJOFDSPGUDB Quai du Vin Estate Winery 45811 Fruit Ridge Line, RR #5 St. Thomas tXXXRVBJEVWJODPN Railway City Brewing Company 168 Curtis Street, St. Thomas tXXXSBJMXBZDJUZCSFXJOHDPN Ruby’s Cookhouse 583 John Street N, Aylmer tXXXSVCZTDPPLIPVTFDPN Rush Creek Wines 48995 Jamestown Line, RR #2 Aylmer tXXXSVTIDSFFLXJOFTDPN The Arts & Cookery Bank 242 Graham Road, West Lorne tXXXUIFBSUTBOEDPPLFSZCBOLDPN The Windjammer Inn 324 Smith Street, Port Stanley tXXXUIFXJOEKBNNFSJOODPN 34 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 BOOKS Locavore From Farmers’ Fields to Rooftop Gardens, How Canadians are Changing the Way We Eat by Sarah Elton Review By Bryan Lavery I am an ardent reader of Sarah Elton, food columnist for CBC Radio’s Here & Now, who writes regularly for the Globe and Mail, Maclean’s and the Atlantic’s Food Channel, and is also an informative blogger and tweeter. Her new book, Locavore: From Farmers’ Fields to Rooftop Gardens, How Canadians are Changing the Way We Eat, was officially launched at the Green Barns Market in Toronto at the end of March. The New Oxford American Dictionary selected locavore as its word of the year in 2007. Since the term entered the lexicon, it seems to be on the tip of every culinaryminded person’s tongue. The term was coined in San Francisco by Jessica Prentice, for the 2005 World Environment Day, to describe consumers who choose locally produced foods over other high-carbon-footprint options. As the emphasis on local food, sustainability and terroir continues to gain momentum across Canada, Elton’s book champions the movement away from global food production. Elton writes with a steady focus on Canadian farmers, producers, cheese makers, chefs, restaurateurs, farmers’ markets, and the regular “Janes and Joes” who are creating sustainable alternatives to agribusiness and the current global food system. With the premise that food is the founda- August/september 2010 tion of our culture, Elton allows the reader a behind-the-scenes journey into the local food movement and an overview of Canadian terroir and the collective culinary sensibility of a nation. She travels the back roads from the Maritimes to Vancouver Island as the quintessential culinary agritourist, and allowing us a close-up analysis of a burgeoning new local food order. Meticulous journalist, part culinary zeitgeist, and urban farmer, Elton resides in downtown Toronto with her husband and two daughters. According to Elton, “Our farmers’ markets are not only hopping, we have more than 500 across Canada.” We also spend about $1 billion at them each year. Although the number of farmers has been on the decline for several decades, a more noble-minded younger generation is moving away from urban areas to the countryside to get back to the earth with sustainable and organic farming practises. Imagine my surprise when I read that La Sauvagine, a soft cheese that won a raft of awards in 2008, and which I have touted in these pages, turns out not to be a handcrafted farmstead cheese and the very essence of Quebec’s terroir. Instead, Elton reveals that it is actually a mass-produced cheese made with cheap stand-in ingredients instead of fresh milk. The “artisan” featured on the packaging, Alexis du Pont, is nothing more than a counterfeit farmer. Elton also imparts that the unregulated term “artisan” is becoming increasingly trite and meaningless. Major corporations eagerly smack this warm and fuzzy marketing adjective on an increasingly long list of industrial products to deceive consumers. Locally, Jo Sleger is a well-known farmer in Middlesex County, whose company supplies about 55,000 boxes of produce a year to upscale restaurants and grocers, mainly in Southern Ontario. Sleger specializes in organic greens, which he cultivates yearround in greenhouses, using soil plugs that are nourished hydroponically. Sleger has been growing lettuce in his greenhouse since 1987, when he was only 21. Elton takes her readers on a brief tour of Jo and Pauline Sleger’s organic operation. Elton poses the question, “So are greenhouses the missing piece in this puzzle? Are they the answer to getting us from October to May? Could greenhouses be a way to entice everybody — and I mean everybody, not just those committed to reducing their food miles at all cost — to buy local?” Interestingly, Locavore also tells Unparalleled Elegance. Historic Charm. Culinary Delight. fresh, seasonal cuisine open for breakfast, lunch and dinner a la carte sunday brunch 3 6 G R A N D AV E N U E L O N D O N , O N TA R I O WWW.IDLEWYLDINN.COM 36 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 us that nearby Essex County has the largest number of greenhouses in North America, with 87 dedicated to vegetable production. In June, I had the opportunity to speak with Elton face-to-face at London’s Central Library. In person Elton comes across as being neither an elitist nor a purist — her approach is even-handed and pragmatic. But she also tells her audience that she has had to rigorously defend her views and her opinions on locavorism since her book tour began. Speaking to an audience of about 100 people, many of them farmers and members of our local food community concerned about the global food chain, Elton revealed that an innocuouslooking cookie with a mile-long list of ingredients was the catalyst that instigated a profound change in her relationship to food. One of the many lively discussions at the Central Library centred on the decline of small rural abattoirs. Historically there were hundreds of small abattoirs in Ontario. But due to stringent government food and safety regulations these small abattoirs, which serve the local and sustainable meat market, are being forced out of business. Operators are unable to a Fiesiat lists! Spec From Mild to Wild! August/september 2010 keep up with the red tape and paper work, and cannot afford the upgrades and renovations the government now requires of their facilities. The problem is that if they go out of business, there won’t be sanctioned facilities for local farmers to have their livestock slaughtered. Consumers will be forced to buy exclusively from factory farmers. The National Farmers’ Union has organized a campaign to save the abattoirs, and local farmer and Executive Secretary for the N.F.U. in Ontario, Karen Eatwell, passed out postcards to the audience with a letter of protest. Fortunately, the trend to buying and eating local is showing no signs of declining. Instead, the fruits of our local terroir are quickly becoming a patriotic trademark of Canada’s best tables. Elton offers a good case for the premise that a strong greenhouse industry might be the answer to building a sustainable food shed in Ontario. So, if you read one book this summer, do yourself a favour and read the immensely enlightening Locavore. BRYAN LAVERY is a respected local chef and writer, and eatdrink’s Contributing Editor and Food Writer at Large.. August/september 2010 issue no. 24 www.eatdrink.ca 37 COOKBOOKS The Boreal Gourmet Adventures in Northern Cooking by Michele Genest Review and Recipe Selections by Jennifer Gagel W ho would have guessed that the Yukon is Canada’s slowfood mecca? This is an area where everyone forages, pickles, hunts, preserves and loves to eat the indigenous and unique ingredients. It’s a place that boasts a Slow Food chapter since the ’70s. And it’s a cuisine that Michele Genest is perfectly suited to take us on a culinary tour of via her book, The Boreal Gourmet: Adventures in Northern Cooking (Harbour Publishing Co., 2010, $26.95) Genest was practically trained since birth to appreciate great food — her mother was a gourmet cook who served lamb chops in a wine reduction as a matter of course. As a teen, Genest’s first jobs were mainly in restaurants. Then she spent some formative years on a Greek island, where cooking from the land was commonplace and often the only source of entertainment. Upon returning to her home and native land, she wrote on food and dining, and later became dining editor for enRoute magazine. Then, just as it happened for many other transplanted Northerners, she went to visit in the Yukon and never looked back. As she discovered, Yukoners “were mad hunters, fishers and foragers, supplementing a store-bought diet with the indigenous food First Nations people have subsisted on for thousands of years. Here was the approach I had first encountered in Greece, transposed to a northern landscape. I fell in, with enthusiasm.” She sought out the unique ingredients, such as spruce tips and wild rose petals, and blended them creatively with a lifetime of cultural influences. The result is a northernsouthern fusion, which is about “moose cooked with spinach, dried fruit, coriander and cinnamon..., roasted spruce grouse with a sour cream and Madeira sauce..., caribou, ginger, Portobello mushrooms and red pepper sautéed in butter and finished with red wine, or salmon steaks marinated in soya sauce, maple syrup, garlic and sesame oil.” From the strong, acquired taste of highbush cranberries (which stand up perfectly to all sorts of game), to the delicate, almost citrus note of young spruce tips, she takes the reader on a traveling adventure that traipses through flavours as varied as the landscape and the people who contributed ideas and recipes. Tales of gathering the ingredients along with colourful, anecdotal stories give us insight 38 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 into these wild Northerners. She takes us, and her dog, up cliffs hunting for elusive berries and pulls us to a screeching halt at the roadside to harvest Shaggy Mane mushrooms. We delve below one woman’s trap door, where a horde of lowbush cranberries gleams like treasure in its silver bowl. The recipes flow from these tales. Some recipes are gifts from fellow Yukoners or reinterpretations of classics, but many she crafted with the help of her community. To discover the best flavour combinations, she invited people who had a vested interest in the final product; they had produced the ingredients themselves. The Wilted Arugula Salad with Fireweed Honey Vinaigrette was conceived during a tasting buffet that included such fare as almonds, morels, halloumi and honey, with a bottle of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo to go with it. Then these lucky people set forth, grilling, baking, combining, testing all the results with abandon. Summer solstice is a huge event in the Yukon and always involves a potluck. Sigrun Maria Kristindottir’s Beet and Turnip Bisque is one such treat, and even though Kristindottir August/september 2010 has returned to Iceland, her spirit is kept close by this smooth and creamy soup, where the earthiness of the beets is drawn out by the smoked paprika, then accented by the slight tang of the turnip. Regardless of the amount of sun your locale sees, Genest’s enthusiasm will have you seeking out wild ingredients near you. But if you’d like to duplicate, there is an extensive source listing included, along with an excellent index. Crisp, clear photos of the dishes are interspersed with detailed closeups of the ingredients and stunning vistas of northern landscapes.Wide margins for notes and a sewn binding so the book lays flat make this book an extra pleasure to cook from. For anyone who likes to travel, hunt, forage, read, cook or eat, consider The Boreal Gourmet for your next adventure. JENNIFER GAGEL is a freelance writer specializing in food. She can be contacted at [email protected] Recipes courtesy of Michele Genest, from The Boreal Gourmet: Adventures in Northern Cooking (Harbour Publishing Co., 2010). Photos by Cathie Archbould (www.archbould.com). Wilted Arugula Salad with Halloumi & BC Blackberries This recipe is very forgiving of substitutions—the important thing is to keep the balance of tart fruit, crunchy nuts, vinegar and honey. ½ pound (225 g) of arugula leaves, washed Handful of pine nuts (or almonds, or hazelnuts) ½ cup (125 mL) blueberries (or raspberries, wild strawberries, blackberries or even cranberries) 5 tbsp (75 mL) olive oil 1 red onion, halved and sliced 1 pkg of Lendrum-Ross halloumi cheese (about 7 ounces/200 gr), cut into bite-sized pieces 2 tbsp (30 mL) sherry vinegar or balsamic vinegar 1 tsp (5 mL) fireweed honey Salt and pepper to taste 1 Place arugula, fruit and nuts in large bowl. Heat 2 tablespoons (30 mL) oil in iron frying pan over medium-high heat. Add onion; sauté until brown and softened, about 7 minutes. Transfer to bowl with arugula. 2 Fry halloumi pieces in the same oil, turning when one side is brown, about 2 minutes. Cook for a further 2 minutes; add to arugula. August/september 2010 no. 24 SIGRUNissue MARIA KRISTINDOTTIR’S www.eatdrink.ca 39 1 SautéTURNIP the onion in the oil in a thick-bottomed BEET AND BISQUE pot until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining vegetables and the stock and simmer until vegetables are soft.Canada Strain theand soupthe intoYukon a Sigrun, inventor of the soup, lived in southern an bowl. In a Brian food processor or blender, purée small is p goopy. and Susan’ s halloumi wrote for the Yukon News. She returned to Iceland in 2005, where she amounts of vegetables and liquid at a time until uses: for breakfast, fried Return and placed on to the soup is smooth and creamy. to the currently doing a PhD in Environment and Natural Resource Studies, focusing o pot, whisk inhoney; cream, smoked paprika, salt and on sh fireweed for a summer lunch, sustainability, at the University pepper, of Iceland. remains a reporter at hear reheatBut andshe serve. We still miss her. 1 medium onion, chopped 1 Tbsp (15 mL) olive oil large white turnip, peeled and Wilted Arugula1Salad with Halloumi and BC Blackberries chopped 3 Add vinegar to pan, let bubble briefly until it 4–6 beets, peeled and chopped loses its sharp aroma, remove pan from heat, 2 and medium potatoes, peeled add honey remaining oil.halloumi Seasonand with Wilted arugula salad with andsalt BC chopped and pepper. Pour over arugula; to coatclub. and blackberries from the organictoss produce 4 cups (1 immediately. L) beef, moose or caribou wilt slightly. Serve stock Makes four servings. 1 cup (250 mL) 35 percent cream baby tomatoes and shrimp brushed with li (hig and in this wilted arugula salad adapted Sauté eight the onion in the oil in a thick-bottomed pot un Makes servings for wilted spinach and feta. To those of golden, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining vegetabl the Market invegetables Shipyards in TIP: The smoked paprika picks up on the earthiness and theFireweed stock and simmer until are Park soft. Stra of the beets and the horseradishy bite of the turnip, thea soup into a bowl. In a foodevening: processor oryou blender, pur summer Thursday could but proceed withofcaution. Theand first liquid time I made thisuntil t small amounts vegetables at a time almost entirely and from Yukon-grown prod soup went overboard, added a whole teasoupI is smooth and creamy. Return to the pot, whisk spoon of smoked paprika.picked Too much. Next time, I the n local blueberries, by you. For cream, smoked paprika, salt and pepper, reheat and serv cut back to one-half teaspoon, which was just right. to accompany, well, you might have to sear Add andatCrème Fraîche, ifin using, to “taste, individual bow As thegin chefs Le Cordon Bleu Paris say, 2 Add gin and crème fraîche, if using, to individual honey; for an appetizer of saganaki bowls just before serving. just before taste, taste!”serving. Makes eight servings ½ tsp (2.5 mL) smoked paprika, or more to taste Sigrun Maria Kristindottir’s WILTED ARUGULA SALAD W Beet and Turnip Bisque FIREWEED HONEY VINAIGRET Salt and pepper to taste Optional, to garnish: A splash of gin and a dollop of 1 medium onion, chopped Crèmeoil Fraîche (page 150) in each 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive bowl peeled and chopped 1 large white turnip, recipe is very forgiving of substitutions—the important th 4–6 beets, peeledThis and chopped 2 medium potatoes, peeled and chopped themoose balance of tart 4 cups (1 L) beef, or caribou stockfruit, crunchy nuts, vinegar and honey. 1 cup (250 mL) 35 percent cream Tip: The smoked paprika picks up on the ½ tsp (2.5 mL) smoked paprika, or more to taste earthiness of the beets and the horse-radishy Salt pepper to tasteof arugula leaves, ½and pound Place arugula, fruit and nuts in large bite(225 of the gr) turnip, but proceed with caution. OPTIONAL, TO GARNISH: washed The first time I made this soup I went tablespoons (30Turnip mL) oilwith in Crème iron Fraîche frying pa Beet and Bisque A splash of gin and a dollop of crème fraîche in overboard, and added a whole teaspoon of Beet and Turnip Bisque with Crème Fraîche. each bowl Handful of pine nuts (or almonds, or high heat. Add onion; sauté until brow smoked paprika. Too much. Next time, I cut back to one-half teaspoon, which was just right. mL) As the blueberries chefs at Le Cordon Bleu ½ cup (125 (orin Paris say, “taste, or taste,wild taste!”strawberries, raspberries, hazelnuts) about 7 minutes. Transfer to bowl with aru blackberries or even cranberries) Fry halloumi pieces in the same oil, turnin is brown, about 2 minutes. Cook for a fu add to arugula. 230mL) | The Boreal 5 Tbsp (75 olive oil Gourmet 1 package of Lendrum-Ross halloumi cheese, (about 7 ounces/200 gr) cut into bite-sized pieces. Add vinegar to pan, let bubble briefly until aroma, remove pan from heat, add honey oil. Season with salt and pepper. Pour over coat and wilt slightly. Serve immediately. 2 Tbsp (30 mL) sherry vinegar or balsamic vinegar Makes four servings 1 red onion, halved and sliced 40 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 only the highest quality ingredients, such as pure Canadian mustard seed and cold pressed olive oils. All of Carrothers’ products are natural, healthy and preservative-free, including 25-year-old Balsamic Vinegar, truffle oil, San Marzano tomatoes, smoked sea salt and imported olive oils. NEW AND NOTABLE The BUZZ N ot to wish the summer away, but when you start thinking ‘back-to-school’, consider signing up for some of the Fall and Winter Cooking Classes at the Idlewyld Inn (www.idlewyldinn.com) and celebrate the bounty of an array of local produce. Join Executive Chef Tim D’Souza for these special classes, starting in September. Red Roaster founders Kendra and Adam Green have branched out, opening a burger business in Wortley Village. Relish Gourmet Burgers at 135 Wortley Road offers a selection that includes beef, bison, chicken and veggie, with over 40 different topping combinations available. Scott Carrothers, founder of Savoury Chef, is a red seal chef with 15 years experience in the food industry. His experience runs the gammut from organic farming, retail to working as the Executive Chef at the Sheraton Hotel in Hamilton. Carrothers is currently putting his skills to use at the Western Fair Farmers’ Market by crafting and retailing a line of artisan mustards and vinaigrettes using Check out their website (www.aubergerestaurant.ca) for full menus, but Auberge du Petit Prince is offering a 3-Course Dinner for $29 and a 3-Course Lunch for $18. The stylish French-inspired restaurant should also provide just the right atmosphere for a Murder Mystery Soirée. Reserve early for either September 23rd or November 4th. Only $49 per person for a 3-course dinner, inclusive. A Dior Soirée will be held October 14th, featuring the latest fragrances, makeup and skin care lines from Christian Dior, with a promise of exclusive access to Dior trade secrets! $55 per person, inclusive, includes a 3-course dinner, a $20 Dior gift certificate, a complimentary glass of wine, a Dior loot bag and great door prizes. Reserve early! Coffee roaster and Western Fair Farmers’ Market owner Dave Cook has landed a lucrative deal to supply Loblaws with coffee, only five years after starting up his Fire Roasted Coffee Co. The parents of the head buyer for Loblaws shop at the Saturday Market, where Cook roasts and retails 50 types of coffee beans, and suggested they would bring their son to see Cook’s operation. Cook’s fairtrade beans — roasted locally, but purchased from small, Best Meat Pies in Ontario for 22 years! DA LunIcLY Buffeh t Fine Indian Cuisine 174 King St. London d e s Clo days 519 672 2989 Mon www.masseys.ca Cafe . Catering . Meat Pies Cookies and Breads . Specialty Cakes Scotian Isle Baked Goods has been making meat pies for London and the surrounding area since 1988! Enjoy the highest quality baked products and the best service. 972 #13 Hamilton Road, London ON 519 455 8301 www.scotianisle.ca August/september 2010 independent producers in countries such as El Salvador — are now on the shelves of 67 Loblaws stores, including all in London. The Western Fair Farmers’ Market Cafe and Roastery is open to the public Monday to Friday from 9 to 5. Saturdays from 8 - 3. For ten days in September, the annual Western Fair takes centre stage in London, Ontario. Consistently recognized as one of Ontario ’s top 100 events, the Western Fair is a premier family attraction in Southwestern Ontario. This year, over 200,000 visitors are expected to pass through the gates to experience the sights, sounds and scents of this annual community event. The Western Fair Farmers Market would like to invite you to take part as a vendor/exhibitor during the upcoming Western Fair. The goals of the event are to help promote local food, agriculture and other culinary initiatives. For many fairgoers, shopping is part of the experience. 78% of Fair patrons visit vendors located in the commercial buildings. More than 52,000 square feet of exhibit space is dedicated to the spirit of commerce, making Western Fair Market an ideal venue to showcase a myriad of consumer goods and services. And it works. Scores of vendors return to the Western Fair every year to capitalize on a proven, cost-effective way to reach thousands of customers. Western Fair Farmers’ Market operating hours during the Western Fair: Monday-Wednesday, 3pm-9pm; Thursday, Friday & Sunday, 11am-9pm; Saturdays, 8am-9pm. The Western Fair Farmers’ Market serves as an active incubator for new businesses, and welcomes entrepreneurs and new small businesses to sell their products. Of particular interest are food vendors/artisans, growers, farmers, artists and craftspeople. Take advantage of this outstanding opportunity to market your product or service. The Northeast Multicultural Market operates on the 4th Saturday of July, August, September, and October 2010. This community market offers local fruits & vegetables, cultural handmade items including food, crafts and clothing, skills, art, photographs and wood carvings. Musicians, artists, performers, storytellers and more are welcome to this family-friendly event. The next market will take place on August 28 from 10:00am - 3:00pm at the Kipps Lane Plaza (1050 Kipps Lane) Museum London Annual Corn Roast — Ron Benner is a Canadian artist whose work encompasses a wide-range of food and social justice issues. Every year, Benner hosts a traditional corn roast at Museum London, featuring his roving corn roasting wagon, Maize Barbacoa. Music will be provided by Frank Ridsdale. Sunday September 12 at 1 p.m. It’s A Party! London’s first truly Waste-Free Ecofest & Unity Roundtable. The fall harvest provides the background to a low-cost forum to educate families about buying locally and respecting the environment for a sustainable future. L.O.O.K., in partnership with TREA www.eatdrink.ca 41 42 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 (Thames Region Ecological Association) and Waste Free World, will entertain, enlighten and engage Londoners in Queens Park, Western Fair, on October 2. Spearheaded by two local artists, Jessica Conlon and Jamie Hume, with Rob Butterwick of Apollo X Productions, the event is designed to raise awareness about local food, local products, local actions and local music in a fun and festive atmosphere. The free performance stage will be powered by the people through the use of specially-engineered bicycles. To feed the spirit and honour the beautiful trees, a special “Serenade of the Trees” will be held throughout the park, through music, poetry and dance. Collaborations are encouraged. To feed the body, there will be a variety of vendors offering local, seasonal, organic food choices all day. To feed the senses, there will be several local artisans displaying and selling their creations. Activities for younger children will involve learning about recycling, reusing and repurposing of existing materials. Vendors secure their space through a refundable deposit, as this Waste Free EcoFest is a not-for-profit event designed to provide artistic expression and environmental education for all. Festa Italiana is one of London’s “marquee” events and also one of the city’s liveliest and most anticipated festivals. It is a three-day (August 27, 28, & 29) celebration of Italian culture, cuisine, music, dance and more. Each August/september 2010 year, the popular event attracts over 35,000 attendees. Festa Italiana organizers are proud to share and showcase all that is Italian with the people of Ontario. The market square at the Covent Garden Market is transformed into an authentic Italian “piazza,” so attendees can drink in the sights and savour the authentic sounds and tastes of the true Italian culture for three spectacular days. The Covent Garden Market hosts the 6th annual East Coast Festival August 20 & 21, with live and recorded music, dancing, down-home food, beverages and art. With its all-Canadian Atlantic theme, Covent Garden Market Square will come alive with the sights, sounds, and flavours of Canada’s East Coast. The City Farming Project hosts its annual Tomato Fest September 18, 11–2 pm., at the Covent Garden Market. In 2006, local food activist Rose White founded the City Farming Project, a sustainable agricultural project in the city, and began farming on a half-acre plot of land within the city limits. The City Farming Project is a not-for-profit initiative whose aim is to provide Londoners with an opportunity to reclaim their food heritage. To this end, they keep gardens in the city to teach people, hands-on, how to farm their private and/or community garden plots. Through a variety of activities and locations, they produce a range of heritage and heirloom vegetables, which they sell to local chefs, as well as the public at London’s farmers’ markets. August/september 2010 The Horton Farmers’ Market (hortonfarmersmarket. blogspot.com) in St. Thomas is a community-driven market committed to providing fresh products from local producers to St. Thomas and area since 1878.The market hosts over 35 vendors, including Berry Hill Fruit Farm, DeBackere Farms, Frisa Farm Eggs, Gredigs Apple Orchard, Lindsay Mushroom Farm and Oegema Turkey Farms. Enjoy your morning coffee from The Peasant Blend and a breakfast sandwich from Farmgate’s, hot off the grill. Then fill your bags with the areas freshest seasonal produce and some fresh-baked pastries. Your love of all things Italian begins at Visitors to Stratford, and area residents, now have a second farmers market to visit. Slow Food (Perth County) put forward the idea, and Ruth Klahsen helped to make it a reality, offering premises on the Monforte Dairy property on Griffith Road. Vendors “embrace the good, clean, fair philosophy” says Laurie Knechtel of Slow Food. The market will emphasize locally grown food but will include farmers from outside Perth County as well. Antony John of Soiled Reputation is among the vendors, bringing his very fresh and tasty produce to the Slow Food Market. 49 Griffith Road, Sundays from 10 am to 2 pm , through October. Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival [see story on page 6] has been expanded to 9 days of food, food, food! Celebrations kick off with a Garlic Festival (see below for details). The week following is filled with an Edible Walking Tour, a screening of the film Tableland, a new tour of Stratford’s pubs in heritage properties with ‘spirits’ and an exploration into beer with Mirella Amato, back by popular demand. All this builds to a celebrations of Perth County producers and Stratford chefs coming together with those who love food and music and all things connected to it. The key culinary event is the Savour Stratford Tasting on Sunday, September 26 from 1-4pm, when 30 local producers are paired with chefs to create delicious tastes. This is paired with VQA wines and craft beers. Tickets are available online at www.welcometostratford.com, by phone 1-800-561-7926 or in person at Stratford Tourism Alliance, 47 Downie Street, Stratford. Love chocolate? Stratford invites you to satisfy your sweet tooth on the Chocolate Trail. With 16 different stops on the trail, you will receive 8 passes to exchange for chocolate tastes or take-away items in Stratford. You can select a visit to famous candy makers, chocolate paired with wine, chocolate mint bath salts, decadent chocolate caramel cake and chocolate teas with your $20 pass valid for 3 days. Bring a friend and dip into Stratford for some chocolate fun! Go to www.welcometostratford.com/chocolatetrail/ index.html and order your pass online. Looking for a truly unique festival? Head for the 4th annual Stratford Garlic Festival, Saturday, September 18, 9am4pm, showcasing Ontario garlic and garlic-related foods and products. This year’s event features an outstanding lineup of presenters and demonstrators, including a number Billy’s Downtown Deli Welcome to Our Table 113 Dundas St @ Talbot 519-679-1970 Closed for Ho Aug. 22 lidays -30 Breakfast or Lunch Closed Mondays www.billysdelirestaurant.ca 44 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 of celebrity cooking demonstrations. An extensive garlic market features more than 70 vendors with an array of garlic and garlic-related items. Try some garlic fudge, enjoy a garlic sausage, and savour all the flavours and experiences of the day! The festival is a family-friendly event with numerous children’s activities offered throughout the day. The Stratford Garlic Festival (www.stratfordgarlicfestival.com) is a community project of the Kiwanis Club of Stratford in conjunction with the Garlic Growers of Ontario. Proceeds from the festival support local community projects. Cost: $5 per person (Children under 5 free). Where: The Old Stratford Fairgrounds, 20 Glastonbury Drive, Stratford. For more info, call 519-275-2279 or email [email protected] . S.P.L.A.T. Tomato Festival takes place on August 29 at McCully’s Hill Farm, just west of St. Marys on Perth Line 9. Bring your family and celebrate all things tomato. Go to www.mccullys.ca for more information. If you miss the Pubs, Pilsner and Spirits Tour in September, join in on October 15 as Stratford launches the Heritage Festival with this fun tour and tasting event. The Heritage Weekend includes a period Heritage Dinner menu at Falstaff Centre in Stratford offering locally sourced menu reflecting the period that the Falstaff Centre was built. Russian service and entertainment will round out this intimate dinner. Book dinner and tour tickets at www.welcometostratford.com/fall after Sept 1. Join us for drinks and conviviality! 347 Clarence St. (N of York) 519-858-9900 August/september 2010 Jazz Legends at Pazzo is a great way to mix a little music with your food Friday and Saturday nights starting at 9:00 pm. Late Night Cabarets at The Church are begin at 11:30 pm. Add a Coffee Cantata at Balzac and Picnics in the Park auctions every Saturday. Stratford Summer Music continues through August 22. Tickets and information are available at www.stratfordsummermusic.ca. Culinary Walking Tours of Stratford. Take your taste buds for a culinary adventure within heritage downtown Stratford with a local foodie as your guide. Visit several food shops and sample local products and locally made foods whenever possible. Tours run rain or shine. Bring an umbrella and wear comfortable walking shoes. For groups of five or more or a private tour, please call ahead 519-273-7818. Cost: $10/per person (Pay your guide directly in cash) and reserve ahead to ensure a space. Gallery Stratford presents “Shake your Martini” Monday September 20th at 7 pm, during the Savour Stratford Culinary Week (www.savourstratford.com). Learn to make three martinis using fresh and local ingredients. Schmooze, mingle and sip at Gallery Stratford, 54 Romeo Street South. Limited Tickets. Fall marks the rural celebrations of the harvest and agriculture with fall fairs. Stratford Fall Fair (www.stratfordfairgrounds.com) takes place September 23-26 with exhibits, shows, a midway and more. “A casual pub with serious food... Recommended: the artisanal Quebec cheeses and special charcuterie plates.“ plates.” www.brennansbeerbistro.ca Pick up the Event Calendar online August/september 2010 issue no. 24 The 2010 Huron Perth Buy Local Buy Fresh Map will be launched on August 9th at the Brodhagen Community Centre (6708 Perth Line 44). Keep a copy in your car and turn thePantry county roads into your grocery aisles, for fresh The Village local food. Get your copy at the Taste of Huron and Savour Stratford Culinary Festivals! Birtch Farms and Estate Winery (www.birtchfarms.com) the harvest with an Apple Festival, September /4 H celebrates 18 – 19. This 2-day kick off to the fall festival season features 9 pick-your-own apples and pumpkins, horse drawn wagon Diane rides along the “Apple Tale Trail”, scarecrow making, corn Sept 24maze, food tent, wine tasting and new product sampling. Strolling musicians, fresh baked apple fritters, apple pies, apple muffins, caramel apples and much more. www.eatdrink.ca 45 displayed at the Culinary Festival site Saturday, September 25 and Sunday, September 26. Take some pictures of food, glorious food! Choose your best shots, whether it be planting, growing, cooking or eating our local bounty. Entry is open to all photographers living in Perth County, who may submit up to two (2) works accompanied by completed submission forms, and entry fee on Friday, September 17th to Factory163. The submissions will be judged by celebrity photographers on Saturday, September 18. Winners will be announced on Monday, September 20. As well, a People’s Choice Award will be presented at the end of the Exhibit and will join the other Perth County Greenworks and Perth County Visitors Association partner with Savour Stratford to present “Discover Perth County” Farm Tour on Sunday, September 19th. Hop aboard a bus that will transport you to several local farms, where you’ll spend time with the farmer at each venue learning about the dynamic agricultural character and food culture that have transformed Perth County into a culinary and agri-tourism hotspot. Visit a garlic farmer, learn about alpaca farming, shear a sheep and feed the wild boars! $25 for adults and $12 for children (10 and under), which includes a delicious local brown-bag lunch. Stratford is offering a number of Culinary Packages, some in conjunction with the Stratford Chefs School. This season’s packages include Monforte Artisanal Cheese Making; A Fresh Approach to Healthy Baking (Chef Brian Holden teaches the techniques and benefits of gluten-free baking); and Cultivate Your Palate With the Manic Organic. For more details, visit www.welcometostratford.com/packages.php. The Perth County photography exhibit, From Farm to Table, is the newest addition to the Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival in September. This is the first food photography exhibit and sale to compliment the highly anticipated culinary festival. The exhibit runs from Monday, September 20th to Friday, September 25th at Factory163, 163 King Street, Stratford, with the winning photographs LEBRATIN G CE 31 Years 1979-2010 � Open 7 Days a Week � Home Cooked Meals � Breakfast & Lunch Everyday � Daily Lunch Specials starting at $6.95 � Dinner Served Tuesday To Saturday � Catering � Licensed LCBO � On Site Banquet Room 10 to 65 People Serving You With Pride Since 1979 519-652-7008 2473 Main Street, Lambeth 46 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 winning photographs in a display onsite at Savour Stratford on September 26th, 2010. Visit www.savourstratford.com for forms and guidelines. For more information, contact Irene Miller at Factory 163 at 519-271-6500 or [email protected]. Elgin County is pleased to introduce Savour Elgin: A Taste Experience. The Savour Elgin program includes a tour guide and map of the culinary trail, a website, sponsored events, and much more. 16 members from across Elgin County and St. Thomas feature the best the area has to offer in culinary attractions. Savour Elgin will be launched at FreshFest in St. Thomas on Thursday, August 26th at the Canada Southern Railway Station. Outstanding Salads for BBQs, Rehearsal Dinners, Bridal Showers or Brunches ... Made from Scratch! Tasty Handmade Hors d’Oeuvres Homemade Inspired Baking Turkey Dinners & More e City Weidry Deliv August/september 2010 Savour Elgin is pleased to be sponsoring the event with the Mobile Culinary Theatre, a fully-functional mobile demonstration kitchen for all of the chefs’ demonstrations. FreshFest, a celebration of local farmers and the foods they grow, is presented in partnership with talented area chefs and restaurants, wineries and a brewery, to create the ultimate tasting experience. Food, wine and beer samplers will be on offer. Mix in the summer sounds of top-notch entertainment, and the opportunity to raise funds for the CASO Station through a live auction of great prizes, and you have a recipe for the best party of the season. Last year’s event was sold out in advance – get your tickets early! Check www.freshfest.ca for details and ticket information. The Taste of Huron culinary festival hits Ontario’s West Coast from August 16 to 27, 2010. Join up-and-coming chefs, award-winning cookbook authors and food writers as you savour the best of Huron County’s local harvest! You’ll enjoy hands-on culinary workshops, special restaurant and gala events, farm tours, markets and more! Named the “Best New Event of 2009” by the Economic Development Council of Ontario (EDCO), and a regional winner of the Premier’s Award for Agri-Food Innovation Excellence, the 2010 Taste of Huron event (www. tasteofhuron.ca) promises to be another delicious success! Don’t miss this delicious event! On Saturday, August 21, from 10am to 1pm on The Square in Goderich, the Taste of Huron Village Marketplace will be hosting a Recipe Challenge in partnership with the Goderich Farmers’ Market, where local chefs will prepare dishes using local foods. As event sponsor, eatdrink will help judge dishes based on taste, presentation and use of local foods. Just off The Square at The Livery, local chefs and restaurants will be preparing samples in the Taste of Huron Tasting Area. For more details on the Taste of Huron culinary festival, visit www.tasteofhuron.ca. The historic Van Egmond House in Seaforth will be home to Ciderfest on Sunday, September 26, 10am to 4pm. This event is a celebration of the local harvest which can be shared by all members of the family, young and old, held on the grounds of the Van Egmond Foundation, a provincially- August/september 2010 recognized historic site. Good food, good music, good times. Known for: Home-cooked food using the freshest of ingredients include renowned fresh apple fritters, (people line-up of these as they are made as you wait), homemade meat pies, local cider and chilli. Activities will include fiddle music, demonstrations, crafts, and tours of historic Van Egmond House (80 Kippen Road, Egmondville, 1 mile south of Seaforth’s main intersection at Hwy 8 & Main Street). Cost: $2.00 Chef Devin Tabor of Clinton has teamed up with The Regional Equine & Agricultural Centre of Huron (REACH) to offer Dine & Vine, a series of educational wine and food pairing dinners. Featured wineries include Flat Rock Cellars, Cave Spring and Pelee Island Winery. Soiled Reputation and Metzger Meat Products are among the local suppliers. A special Gala Fundraiser is planned for the October event, with N0 99 Wayne Gretzky Cellars as the featured winery. Cost: $50 plus HST per person, which includes the meal, wine tastings and lecture. Limited seating at each offering, so register early. Dates: Saturday July 24th (oh, you missed that one); Thursday August 26th; Thursday September 23rd; Saturday October 23rd. Call 519-482-3998, ext. 1482 or visit www.reachhuron.ca. Lynn Neitsch, owner of Sweets & Memories on the square in Goderich, has been busy this summer adding to her list of more than 60 store-made gelato flavours. A true devotee of the frozen dessert, Lynn rotates her flavours daily but she always has one palate cleanser available – with grapefruit being the latest hit – and always one chocolate gelato along with her newest creations. Kulpepper’s, on the square in Goderich, is the brainchild of Steve and Lynn Rock. For almost four years, these two foodie fans have offered a growing collection of appealing kitchen treasures that are worthy of Homestyle magazine’s pages (in 2009). Getting excited about spices, sauces, comestibles and foodie tools and treasures you can’t find in big box stores is the perfect reason to explore this heritage district. The Whole Pig (www.thewholepig.ca), a new online company, delivers farm fresh pork to our local area. Long-time pork producers Teresa and Martin Van Raay have developed this new retail arm for their family farm near Dashwood in Huron County. The company offers packages ranging from a whole pig to smaller packages that include various cuts such as shoulder, ham, bacon, ground pork and sausages. They deliver within a 100-mile radius of their farm, which covers a wide territory across Southwestern Ontario. Slightly further afield, the Amherstburg Farmers’ Market (Malden Community and Cultural Center, County Rd. 20 & Howard Ave.) is running every Saturday until October 30th, from 8:30am - 3:30pm. We can’t print it if you don’t send it. Our readers want to know, so send us info about culinary events, fundraisers, and regional news. With BUZZ in the Subject line, send to: [email protected] 519.432.4092 FREE APPETIZER FOR TWO With the purchase of two entrées, GARLIC’S OF LONDON invites you to enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY APPETIZER FOR TWO prepared by our Chef and created especially for You and your Guest. Please present this coupon to your server upon arrival. Coupon expires September 30, 2010. 48 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 SPOTLIGHT Summer Sounds Delicious at Quai du Vin Estate Winery, near St. Thomas By Debra Bagshaw Q uai du Vin Estate Winery is tucked atop the rolling slopes of Fruit Ridge Line, just south of St. Thomas. Like a pleasingly interesting wine, it’s a place that draws you in, layer by layer. First there’s the location — Fruit Ridge Line runs through pretty countryside at some of Elgin County’s highest elevations. The retail wine and gift store is set into a slope, complete with wine barrel waterfall. Inside, approachable staff will invite you to taste and will be pleased to answer any questions. You can also relax with a glass of your favourite in the shade of the Wine Press Terrace. Enjoy a glass with Lisa Quai The Quai du Vin Estate Winery vineyards August/september 2010 issue no. 24 www.eatdrink.ca 49 Resident winemaker Jamie Quai, in the barrel room From the terrace extends the event area, where Quai du Vin hosts their outrageously popular “Summer Sounds Delicious” musical events (many sell out in advance), as well as private functions and weddings. The substantial tent-covered stage faces lawns rolling toward the vineyards, lending an oldworld feel. Nothing beats the experience of enjoying a decadent picnic with the sound of the blues wafting through the vineyard towards Lake Erie — you can’t see it but it’s not far away. Redi and Louisa Quai planted the first grapes in 1970 to sell to other wineries; those vineyards are still in production. The location, with heavy clay soil, good elevation and Recommended in Where to Eat in Canada ���� & ���� BED, BREAKFAST & BISTRO ���.���.���� 324 Smith St., Port Stanley www.thewindjammerinn.com air movement, has proven a wise choice, comparable in many ways to the Loire Valley region of France. With the introduction of free trade in the late ’80s, surplus Canadian product meant the loss of market for Quai du Vin grapes. Redi and Louisa’s son Rob had been a longtime amateur winemaker (and award winner), and his thoughts of “maybe someday” making wine suddenly became a necessity. Rob and wife Lisa opened the doors to Quai du Vin Estate Winery in 1990 and haven’t looked back. They produce over 90,000 bottles a year and corked their millionth bottle in July 2002. In 2010, they celebrate the winery’s 20th anniversary. Rob Open for Lunch & Dinner 7 Days a Week LIVE Acoustic Music Friday Nights and Sunday Brunch OVER THE BRIDGE, BEFORE THE BEACH 50 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 Jamie and Rob — two generations of Quai winemakers and Lisa’s children (and the extended family) have been actively involved, both with the agricultural end of the operation and in helping out with events. Quai du Vin’s focus has always been to create quality, affordable wines and to organize events that are fun and memorable. Rob has been instrumental, over the last few years, in bringing together businesses in Elgin County to create an impressive presence at the London Wine and Food Show. He is unfailingly enthusiastic about the possibilities of combining wine, food, music and laughter. The vintner’s genes have been passed to at least one member of the third Quai generation. Son Jamie graduated in 2006 with an HBSc in Oenology and Viticulture. He talked recently about the direction of winemaking at Quai du Vin. In his early teens, Jamie felt a bit ambivalent about the winery — it was a lot of work, and he comments laughing, “with a winery you can’t even consume the product your labour goes into.” However, grade 10/11 chemistry courses grabbed his interest. While considering possible careers, Jamie suddenly realized that he had a fascinating chemistry lab in his own back yard. He continues to be intrigued by both winemaking and gastronomy. Jamie notes that the winery has reached the stage where it’s self-sufficient in supporting family and staff. He says, “It is still hard work, but success gives you the opportunity to step back and focus.” He would like to refine and narrow the list of grape varieties grown and develop a reputation for producing a really excellent Riesling or Chardonnay. He advocates dropping some of the unripe fruit, if necessary, to obtain better balance — smaller yield but higher quality. He has performed controlled trials to prove to both himself (and more importantly, to Dad Rob) that there are measurable benefits to discarding some of the early fruit. He also looks to his European roots for inspiration. Says Jamie, Chile and Argentina are producing big wines meant to stand alone. Old world wines, like those from France and Germany, are often more subtle and pair better with foods. His interest in developing wines definitely has a more European influence. Jamie’s interest in food has become a driving force behind the direction of his winemaking. For both taste and health reasons, he is enthusiastic about the food he buys from August/september 2010 issue no. 24 a local organic farm and farmers’ market. He likes to cook simply, whenever possible using products with less than five ingredients. In an endeavour to learn more about food, he volunteers as a chef’s assistant for Kim Saunders at the Windjammer Inn in Port Stanley. (The Windjammer has been recommended in Where to Eat in Canada for three years running. Kim is known for her flare, enthusiasm for local food, and inspired taste combinations.) Says Jamie, “I enjoy the multi-tasking needed to cook in a restaurant — I really wanted to learn about food and thought I might as well learn from the best.” Jamie describes the latest wines bottled at Quai du Vin as “subtle complex reds” and “refined and flavourful whites.” He has started thinking more about the ageability of their wines, and experimentation has revealed some pleasant surprises. He is finding the ’09 whites “incredible” and the ’08 reds “fruit forward with lots of berry, dark cherry, and strawberry.” Although ’08 was not as good a year as ’07, the wines have good complexity that he thinks customers will like. Winemaker’s Dinners, held in the wine cellars at Quai du Vin, have presented opportunities for Jamie to observe people tasting wine with food. He has developed an appreciation for the diversity of people’s taste preferences and the wonderfully complex science of taste. This has led him to experiment more and more with blending (for example the 2008 Cabernet and 2008 Merlot) to please different palates. Quai du Vin offers opportunities to savour many enjoyable combinations of food, wine, experience and place. Savour a layer or two, and you are likely to want to come back to discover more. www.eatdrink.ca 51 Quai du Vin 45811 Fruit Ridge Line, RR #5, St. Thomas 519-775-2216 www.quaiduvin.com Quai du Vin is a member of the ELGIN COUNTY SAVOUR ELGIN program and culinary trail launched in August. Photographs are by PHILIP J. BELL, Shutter Studios, St. Thomas. DEBRA BAGSHAW is the editor of Relish Elgin (www. relishelgin.ca). Come stroll in our gardens and experience the wonders of lavender. www.savourelgin.ca 52 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 TRAVEL On the Trail of Terroir Discovering the Tastes of Prince Edward County By Kym Wolfe P rince Edward County (PEC), at the eastern end of Lake Ontario, is one of Ontario’s newest wine destinations. The 104.8-hectare almost-island is filled with vineyards, eateries, artists’ studios and galleries, scenic vistas, farm markets, beaches, and hiking and biking trails — in short, all the ingredients needed for an interesting week-long or weekend getaway. The county is steeped in history, having been established in 1792 as a haven for United Empire Loyalists following the American Revolution, and much of the original architecture has been preserved. Many historic buildings have been converted to B&Bs, bistros, boutiques, wineries, and tasting rooms. The county boasts more than two dozen wineries, which range in size from two to fifty acres. Local winegrowers say there is a unique terroir here, in part because many of the vineyards are sitting on a broad limestone plateau. “The county produces the best quality of wine because the Sommelier Brian roots have Hanna, at Huff to work hard Estate Wineries. to get to the water table,” say Brian Hanna, the sommelier at Huff Estate Wineries. Hanna has worked with wines for 47 years, and one thing he has noticed since coming to PEC is that “all the wineries in this area are making dramatically different products.” The county is on the same latitude as northern France, Germany and Austria, but historically couldn’t grow the grapevines found in those wine regions because any new growth wouldn’t survive the harsh Canadian winters. Winegrowers here began experimenting in the early 1990s and pioneered a technique that has enabled them to grow Chardonnay, Pinot and other traditionally European vines. “The trunks are only six inches high, and we bury all the exposed shoots in earth to keep them from freezing over the winter,” explains Lynn Sullivan of Rosehall Run Vineyards. “In the spring we uncover them by hand. It’s very labour intensive.” Lynn and her Doreen Pendracs in the husband Dan Huff tasting room. planted their first vines in 2001, and by 2005 had produced their first award-winning wines, landing four medals at the 2007 Artevino County Wine competition, including gold for their 2005 Chardonnay. “Prince Edward County wines have a distinctive taste,” says Lynn. “The soil is only about an inch deep, with solid limestone underneath. The grapevines are rooted in the limestone and pull the mineral taste from it.” We visited two other wineries during our brief visit to PEC — the County Cider Company and The Grange of Prince Edward. The County Cider Company is a family-operated estate winery specializing in hard Lynn Sullivan in the Rosehall Run vineyards www.eatdrink.ca 53 August/september 2010 Paul Beedham at the door to the County Cider Company ciders. Because it was a wet and dreary day, we weren’t able to linger and enjoy the view from the patio that overlooks Lake Ontario, but we did enjoy the cozy atmosphere inside the 1832 stone barn, where the tasting room and retail store are located. I particularly enjoyed their ice cider, which has a lovely fruit flavour and is less intense than icewine. The Grange is owned by Bob Granger and his daughter Caroline. The tasting room, situated in a refurbished 1826 Loyalist barn, is a pleasure to both the eyes and palate. One of the locals described it as “the prettiest winery in the county.” While the winery’s Cabernet Franc has won more awards, Caroline told us she takes a personal pride in the Trumpour’s Mill Rosé. “I argued that we needed a rosé,” she says, so she pushed through and created her first batch in 2003, and it remains one of her favourites. “It is only available for a short period of time. We release it on the May long weekend, and it is usually sold out in August.” We also tasted wines from Black Prince Winery during dinner at Milford Bistro & Gallery. The delicious 2008 Cabernet Franc, with its chocolaty overtones, was recommended by our chef and the bistro owner, A refurbished Loyalist barn houses The Grange of Prince Edward’s tasting room and retail store Fly London First...and always! Convenient, hassle-free travel www.londonairport.on.ca Non-stop service to Chicago, Detroit, Toronto, Ottawa, Winnipeg, Calgary, Vancouver and Orlando …. and your connection to the world. Photo by Mark Kryst 54 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 Milford’s original general store, transformed into a cozy bistro Chris Pengali. The bistro is located in a charming old building that started its life as the village general store. Pengali has retained the original store shelving and plank floor and created an intimate dining experience with a menu that, as much as possible, features locally sourced foods. “Our most popular menu items are the local lamb and free-range chicken,” says Pengali. “And the vegetables! Vickie’s Veggies must have more than a hundred types of tomatoes. In the summer it’s a dream.” Cherryvale Organic Farm is another favoured supplier, and Pengali says that working the fields there is almost a rite of passage for staff in PEC eateries. “Almost all staff working in local restaurants have worked at Cherryvale.” Most dining establishments here take pride in serving local cheeses as well. We visited Fifth Town Artisan Cheese Company, a niche producer of handmade goat and sheep milk cheeses, and Canada’s only LEED certified dairy. Founder Petra Cooper spent four years August/september 2010 researching, planning, and building before the dairy produced its first batch of cheese in July 2008. A scant two years later, the company has captured more than a dozen awards for its cheeses, particularly its signature Cape Vessey goat cheese. Fifth Town is the only cheese maker in Ontario that produces caveaged cheese, and visitors can take a peek into the caves through the viewing windows. The staff has also experimented with some unique wine-washed cheeses, but master cheese maker Stephanie Diamant says these are more one-off creations and not yet a regular part of their product listing. A wide range of accommodation is available in PEC, from an inexpensive campsite along the white beaches of Sandbanks Provincial Park, to the upscale inns and healing centres. We stayed at the inn at Huff Estates Wineries. Each room has a private patio, the perfect place to enjoy a latenight glass of award-winning wine (the 2007 Reisling OffDry is among the best I’ve Andrew Laliberte delves into the tasted). Lanny art of cheesemaking at Fifth Town Artisan Cheese Company Huff is the only PEC winery owner who was born in the county, but he did not choose an architectural style to mirror the county’s historic roots. Instead, the August/september 2010 issue no. 24 well-appointed inn is concrete and steel and incorporates west-coast design elements. If you’re interested in works by local artisans, there are a number of galleries sprinkled throughout PEC, and you can also find their paintings, stained glass and other pieces showcased in local eateries. On the Huff Estates grounds, between the winery and the inn, is the Oeno Gallery, which features contemporary Canadian art, including some unique outdoor sculptures that can be found right up to the edge of the vineyard. One of the pleasures of travelling in Prince Edward County is seeing how the different elements of the county feed into the overall experience. There is no blatant commercialism, but more a genuine feeling that the winemakers, chefs, artists and other residents are welcoming you to experience a bit of their relaxed way of life. As one of my travelling companions, Doreen Pendgracs, commented, “The pride here is very high, and I’m sensing a real level of passion for what they do. They all support one another and they have maintained an authentic rural feel.” If you’re planning a visit, be sure to check www.eatdrink.ca 55 Outdoor sculpture at Oeno Gallery out http://tastethecounty.ca. The locals have staked out both a Taste Trail that highlights places to eat and drink (www.tastetrail.ca), and an Arts Trail populated by a variety of artists and galleries (www.artstrail.ca). KYM WOLFE is a London-based freelance writer. She enjoys exploring different parts of the province and is always up for a road trip! 56 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 BEER MATTERS Summertime Odds ’n’ Sods By The Malt Monk odds and sods, noun. Usage: Brit. 1. A motley assortment of things — odds and ends, oddments, melange, farrago, ragbag, mishmash, mingle-mangle, hodgepodge. W e dream about summer for six months while shivering under a confining blanket of snow, so let’s not waste a second of it. I hope you’re spicing up those precious summer moments with good food and crafted artisan beers. Our local crafters have some fantastic new seasonals to seek out. If you’re lucky enough to get to a good beer pub, here are some of the season’s best offerings: Grand River’s Raspberry Pilsner, Great Lake’s Green Tea Ale, Hacker-Schorr Kellerbier, Beau’s Juniper Witbier, and Black Oak Summer Saison. All are on tap for a limited time this summer, so ask your publican for them. I’m going to stray somewhat from my usual format and just give you some reviews and news on the latest beer releases and industry news. Let’s start with a newly released beer that has been anticipated for over a year: Schneider Hopfen-Weisse (lcbo 164046). This wheat beer is the result of a collaboration between Schneider brewmaster Hans-Peter Drexler and Brooklyn brewmaster Garrett Oliver. Schneider Hopfen-Weisse represents the tradition and “terroir” of Bavaria paired with the inventive creativity of New World microbrewing for which Brooklyn is renowned. This beer is dry-hopped with the local Hallertauer Saphir hop at a rate of three pounds per barrel! It gives off an earthy herbal aroma and a woody-citrus flavour. Hopfen-Weisse is like a Bavarian Hefeweiss with micro-brewed huge beer flavour. The result is a rich, full-flavoured, full-bodied, aromatic wheat Heller Bock. This is not a light spritzy patio wheat, but rather a big-flavour, big-bodied, unfiltered wheat bockbier. Best offering of the season and a natural pairing for seafood and creamy cheese dishes. If you get the bottled product, remember to leave a half inch in the bottle and swirl it to get all the settled goodness out of the bottom of the bottle. Ölvisholt Skjálfti (lcbo 168393). Another pleasant surprise of the summer season is the appearance of Ölvisholt Skjálfti. Between the Norse runes on the label and the fact that the brewery is straddled directly over where the North American and European continental plates meet, plus you can see an active volcano from the brewery door, it’s hard to imagine a more Icelandic product. Founded by two neighbouring farmers whose passion for artisan brewing was greater than for dairy farming, Ölvisholt brewery has grown to be Iceland’s premier craft brewer, exporting beer to Denmark, Sweden, Finland and Canada. Ölvisholt Skjálfti, their amber lager, approximates the character of a steam beer. Highly recommended to fanciers of amber lagers or steam beers, it’s a versatile fullflavoured natural beer that pairs well with meats, fish and BBQ. Mill Street Brewery Schleimhammer Roggenbier (lcbo 186809, and on tap at better beer bars). As a distinct style, Roggenbier is about the oldest relic of medieval brewing we have left. Actually, were it not for fifteenthcentury monarchs regulating the food supply, August/september 2010 rye would be the traditional primary brewing grain instead of barley. It seems rye was not deemed too poor for beer making, but too good. Rye and wheat were ordered to be diverted to bread-making and barley to beermaking. So the ancient traditional rye beers died a legislative death around 1516 with the Bavarian Beer Purity Law. Today’s revival of the style is much like the original Roggenbiers — top fermented, unfiltered, muddy brown in colour, puffy caps, sparkling carbonation, earthy-spicy sour-rye-bread character with a very dry finish. Roggenbier (rye beer) is a style most Ontario beer fanciers weren’t exposed to until Mill Street brewed it for their pub patrons a couple years ago. Now they are bottling it for wider distribution. Fresh tasting, a very good representation of a Bavarian Roggenbier, a tad sweeter in the front, but the extra-dry finish makes up for it. A very flavourful and drinkable beer, made for sessioning or pairing with big sandwiches. Gaffel Kölsch (lcbo 167130). Finally, we have a true Köln-brewed Kolsch in Ontario this summer. The LCBO lot is fairly fresh. Gaffe Kölsch decants a clear light gold ale in the glass with a two-finger tightpoured white cap. This lasts and laces the glass well. Sharp carbonation. Aroma of apple, some pear, toasty-biscuity grains, leafy herbs and woody aromas, plus some musty-honey sweetness. Flavour is grainy, balanced well with woody-herbal Nobel hopping, some demure sweetness. Finish goes dry, with a light herbal-citrus snap. Very crisp light dry character, dry tart mouthfeel. A great Kolsch, pretty much defines the style — crisp, delicate character, subtle complexity, deeply quenching. Dieu du Ciel’s Rosée d’Hibiscus (lcbo 165746). A summer special from Quebec’s most innovative artisanal brewer, Rosée d’Hibiscus is a soft-spoken unfiltered wheat beer that totally hides its 5.9 abv. The rose colour comes from the hibiscus flowers added during the brewing process. A bottle pours a turbid pink (like a cloudy pomegranate juice) in my wheat flute, with a billowy pink sticky cap, and tiny natural carbonation bubbles wind up the flute sides. Aroma is Patio Now Open! Now Ope n! Chec London’sk out taste se newest nsation! 855 Wellington Road South, London 58 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 odds and sods, noun. Usage: Brit. 1. A motley assortment of things — odds and ends, oddments, melange, farrago, ragbag, mishmash, mingle-mangle, hodgepodge. W e dream about summer for six months while shivering under a confining blanket of snow, so let’s not waste a second of it. I hope you’re spicing up those precious summer moments with good food and crafted artisan beers. Our local crafters have some fantastic new seasonals to seek out. If you’re lucky enough to get to a good beer pub, here are some of the season’s best offerings: Grand River’s Raspberry Pilsner, Great Lake’s Green Tea Ale, Hacker-Schorr Kellerbier, Beau’s Juniper Witbier, and Black Oak Summer Saison. All are on tap for a limited time this summer, so ask your publican for them. I’m going to stray somewhat from my usual format and just give you some reviews and news on the latest beer releases and industry news. Let’s start with a newly released beer that has been anticipated for over a year: Schneider Hopfen-Weisse (lcbo 164046). This wheat beer is the result of a collaboration between Schneider brewmaster Hans-Peter Drexler and Brooklyn brewmaster Garrett Oliver. Schneider Hopfen-Weisse represents the tradition and “terroir” of Bavaria paired with the inventive creativity of New World microbrewing for which Brooklyn is renowned. This beer is dry-hopped with the local Hallertauer Saphir hop at a rate of three pounds per barrel! It gives off an earthy herbal aroma and a woody-citrus flavour. Hopfen-Weisse is like a Bavarian Hefeweiss with micro-brewed huge beer flavour. The result is a rich, full-flavoured, full-bodied, aromatic wheat Heller Bock. This is not a light spritzy patio wheat, but rather a bigflavour, big-bodied, unfiltered wheat bockbier. Best offering of the season and a natural pairing for seafood and creamy cheese dishes. If you get the bottled product, remember to leave a half inch in the bottle and swirl August/september 2010 it to get all the settled goodness out of the bottom of the bottle. Ölvisholt Skjálfti (lcbo 168393). Another pleasant surprise of the summer season is the appearance of Ölvisholt Skjálfti. Between the Norse runes on the label and the fact that the brewery is straddled directly over where the North American and European continental plates meet, plus you can see an active volcano from the brewery door, it’s hard to imagine a more Icelandic product. Founded by two neighbouring farmers whose passion for artisan brewing was greater than for dairy farming, Ölvisholt brewery has grown to be Iceland’s premier craft brewer, exporting beer to Denmark, Sweden, Finland and Canada. Ölvisholt Skjálfti, their amber lager, approximates the character of a steam beer. Highly recommended to fanciers of amber lagers or steam beers, it’s a versatile full-flavoured natural beer that pairs well with meats, fish and BBQ. Mill Street Brewery Schleimhammer Roggenbier (lcbo 186809, and on tap at better beer bars). As a distinct style, Roggenbier is about the oldest relic of medieval brewing we have left. Actually, were it not for fifteenth-century monarchs regulating the food supply, rye would be the traditional primary brewing grain instead of barley. It seems rye was not deemed too poor for beer making, but too good. Rye and wheat were ordered to be diverted to bread-making and barley to beer-making. So the ancient traditional rye beers died a legislative death around 1516 with the Bavarian Beer Purity Law. Today’s revival of the style is much like the original Roggenbiers — top fermented, unfiltered, muddy brown in colour, puffy caps, sparkling carbonation, earthy-spicy sour-ryebread character with a very dry finish. Roggenbier (rye beer) is a style most Ontario beer fanciers weren’t exposed to until Mill Street brewed it for their pub patrons a couple years ago. Now they are bottling it for wider distribution. Fresh tasting, August/september 2010 issue no. 24 www.eatdrink.ca 59 WINE Business and Pleasure Prime Pairings, at Peller Estates Winery By Rick VanSickle W ine is serious business in Niagara. But it’s just not enough anymore to produce a great bottle of wine. Consumers are looking for much more than that. Wine is a lifestyle ingredient and represents only one aspect of healthy living and enjoyment. One of the other key ingredients is food. And the harmonious marriage of food and wine is what more and more wineries in Niagara have decided they want you to experience when you come and visit their wineries. One winery that has tailored its entire program to the fusion of food and wine is Peller Estates Winery in Niagara-on-theLake. This gorgeous jewel, set amongst the peaceful estate vineyards just off the Niagara Parkway, close to the historic town of Niagara-on-the-Lake, is a spectacular example of how chef and winemaker can come together to create a food and wine experience like no other. With a rich program of pairing food and wine, both in the winery restaurant and with special events often taking place right in the vineyards, chef Jason Parsons and winemaker Lawrence Buhler are working together to achieve the highest standards imaginable. Mark Torrance, director of estate wineries at Peller, calls them “two peas in a pod.” Winemaker Lawrence Buhler Torrance says “food and wine is at our core,” and having the chef and winemaker working in unison towards that ultimate goal has made the experience at the winery successful. “The length of time people spend at the winery is growing and growing,” he says. Food is so critical at Peller that all involved with the winery made a conscientious decision a few years ago to grow grapes and make wines that were more food-friendly. “The freshness of the wines, the acidity in the wines, has drifted up,” says Torrance, who adds that the wines were softer four years ago with the generous 60 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 use of malolactic fermentation, which gives wines their softness in the mouth and less mouthwatering acidity. Today, the wines are fresh and fruity, and just go better with food. To prove his point, Torrance starts bringing food and wine creations to our table at the gorgeous winery restaurant, with views out into the vineyards. First up is a locally prepared charcuterie plate — with most of the cured meats, jellies and assorted breads prepared on site — which the winemaker matches boldly with the Peller Estates Signature Series Ice Cuvée bubbly. The apricot, honey and apple flavours work brilliantly with the savoury cured meats. “From a consumer’s point of view, this is the wine that puts a smile on everyone’s face,” says Torrance. Next, chef Parsons whips A selection of local charcuterie up a Niagara August/september 2010 spring onion soup with roasted onion, wild garlic, lamb, Thunder Oak gouda, and horseradish croustade, which is paired with the Peller Estate Private Reserve Gewurztraminer 2008. It’s a lovely match, with the spicy-floral notes of the wine working smartly with an explosion of strong flavours from the soup. One of the most interesting pairings is the Digby scallop and Aux Champs d’Elise foie gras with the Andrew Peller Signature Series 2008 Sauvignon Blanc. The dish consists of roasted scallop, new asparagus, chanterelle and goat cheese risotto, and delicate and textured seared foie gras, and shows off the barrel-aged Sauvingon Blanc beautifully. A heavenly match, indeed. Our final match is the Prairie bison rib eye with ciderglazed rapini, hothouse grape Aux Champs d’Elise Foie Gras, from the Peller Estates restaurant tomatoes and August/september 2010 The Peller Estates Winery barrel room potato gnocchi, served with a 2004 Andrew Peller Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon. A lovely way to enjoy a beautifully aged wine with a perfectly prepared cut of bison. Peller Estates is a premiere destination for wine lovers because it does things right. The main facility is a busy hive of activity with tours, one of Niagara’s largest tasting rooms, and a winery restaurant that offers intimate indoor dining and gorgeous, more casual dining on the large patio. The wine program, built and maintained by winemaker Buhler, is always crafted with food in mind. Here are some wines we enjoyed with Buhler, Peller’s talented winemaker. (These limited production wines are only available at the winery or on the web, but there is a large selection of Peller wines for sale at the LCBO.) Andrew Peller Signature Series Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($30). A gorgeous, barrelAndrew Peller Signature Series aged Sauvignon Blanc with grapefruit, Chardonnay ‘Sur Lie’ 2007 tropical fruit, vanilla and subtle VQA NIAGARA PENINSULA toastWINE notes on the nose. This is a MAKING WINE ANALYSIS SweetnessfloLevel: (0), 2.5 g/l Dry bold Premium wineChardonnay in the mouth, with grapes are gently pressed to Alcohol: 13.5% release the purest of juice. fruits, atouch TA: 6.0 g/l ral notes, spiced of Barrel fermented and aged PID# : 1038936 sur lie for 11 months in UPC# : 0 48162 00549 5 herbs, and beautiful texture and 80% French and 20% Price: $30.00 American oak barrels (40% Production: 32 barrels mouthfeel. new oak). A partial (50%) malolactic Andrew Peller Signature fermentation to soften acidity and add complexity, Series Chardonnay Sur Lie yet retaining enough acidity to refresh the palate. 2008 ($30). Loaded with tropical FLAVOUR PROFILE SERVING SUGGESTIONS fruits, toasty oak Lemon yellow colour withvanilla, and Serve lightly chilled at 13 to 15°C. a delicate bouquet of toast, Enjoy as a cool evening sipping inspired Lovely creamy biscuit, ripe applespices. and wine. spice. Serve with wild mushroom bread pear flavours A medium to full-bodied in the mouth stuffing andwith your holiday turkey; with an mushroom soup; cream aChardonnay touch of minerality. creamy elegant structure. sauces on pasta tossed with smoked salmon or scallops; grilled firm Flavours of green apple, Andrew pear, lemon, spice and Peller Signature fillets of fish on cedar plank; delicate oak notes on the roasted game hen with pine nut Series Cabernet Franc Icewine palate. stuffing. Lemon, spice and toast Best enjoyed through 2011 2007 ($90). is one very notes linger wonderfully This on the finish. intense icewine with strawberry compote, raspberry and cherry CRITICAL ACCLAIM: Best Chardonnay, Gold Medal – Cuvee Niagara 2009 Silver fresh (Best in Class) – International Wine & Spiritwith Competition 2009, UK. aromas. It feels on the palate Silver Medal – Concours Mondial de Bruxelles 2009. 90 points –and “… showing smoky prowess, with nectarine, apple honey sweetness highly extracted redand citrus poise.” Gordon Stimmel, Torotno Star, February 21, 2009. fruits that are balanced out by high acidity. July 2009 (+bottle deposit) RICK VanSICKLE is an avid wine collector and freelance wine writer. He writes a weekly column on Niagara wines in the St. Catharines Standard. He can be reached at winesniagara@ gmail.com, or check out his website: winesniagara@gmail. Peller Estates Winery 290 John Street East, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada L0S 1J0 Phone: 1-888-267-8687 or www.peller.com 62 www.eatdrink.ca issue no. 24 August/september 2010 THE LIGHTER SIDE Hamming It Up In Havana By Darin Cook A friend of mine spent time in Cuba on business, and his advice to me before my own trip to Havana was not to expect much in the way of gourmet food. Apparently, he had ham and cheese sandwiches for lunch every day. “Canned ham is their national food,” he warned. I thought he was either joking or abstaining from being an adventurous eater by not trying enough local dishes; food is, after all, an integral part of the travel experience. But now I know better. It’s safe to say there is very little adventure, variety or spiciness when it comes to Cuban food, and he had little choice but to survive on ham and cheese. I am a sandwich lover, and even though Cuban bocaditos were in every roadside restaurant, it was rare to find anything other than ham and cheese. Most countries have menus that define them, but Cuba, even with its unique and rich culture, has very few food items that can be ascribed to it alone. No one comes to Cuba to gorge themselves on ham and cheese sandwiches, but if forced to pick a national food, it would have to be ham. I heard that employees were rewarded with gifts of canned ham for showing up to work on time — not your typical work bonus, but in Cuba, it makes sense. I once ordered la bocadito especial, which was supposedly the special of the day, but alas, it was only ham and cheese. Being at a restaurant without ham and cheese would be noteworthy. Cuban chefs must be brainwashed to use as much ham as possible. A number of times I avoided the ham being offered because the quality was questionable, and I often asked for solo queso (only cheese). This was not natural for Cubans to hear. “Solo queso?” they repeated in the form of a question, as if a sandwich without ham was a criminal offence, then shook their heads and threw some canned ham on my sandwich anyway. Even amongst dubious sandwich offerings from rundown restaurants across Havana, home cooking often saved the day. Staying at a casa particulares in Cuba is the equivalent of a bed and breakfast in Britain, and the ones in the smaller towns in the countryside put on a good breakfast spread for their guests with fresh fruit, bread, eggs, and sweet Cuban coffee. And of course, plenty of ham. One night, my friends and I stayed at a charming home in the pleasant town of Vinales, surrounded by tobacco fields and rolling countryside. We arrived late at night and the homeowner informed us breakfast would be at 8:00 a.m. With a big smile, she guided us into the kitchen, gesturing at a dead pig on the counter. The whole pig — hooves, snout, and all. She seemed pleased to show us the freshness of what most likely would be included in our breakfast. I never expected to spend so much time among chickens and pigs, in what is conceivably an urban centre, and the noises coming from these farm animals were non-stop. My night’s sleep wasn’t very restful in what I thought would be a peaceful town, away from the racket of Havana — the traffic, the yelling people, the blaring salsa music — but a whole array of new noises was awaiting in this town of Vinales. Cuban roosters are obviously not privy to the idea that roosters crow at dawn — cock-a-doodle-dos continued all night. When a rooster wasn’t crowing, there was a pig grunting like there was no tomorrow, which is most likely true, because all that ham comes from somewhere. The next morning, the breakfast was excellent. And the ham? At least it didn’t come out of a can. 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