Supercharger System Installation Instructions

Installation Instructions
Supercharger System
99/00 Civic Si DOHC VTEC 1.6 liter B16A2
PART # 989-250
C.A.R.B. E.O. D-344-8
440 Rutherford St. P.O. Box 847 Goleta, CA 93116
1-888-888-4079 • FAX 805-692-2523 • www.jacksonracing.com
SPECIAL NOTE: Because there are so
many different makes, models, and
countries that we sell kits to, we are
unable to supply a new intake gasket or
throttle body gasket with your kit. We
recommend buying new ones from your
local Honda dealer before starting the
installation. If you do not have a shop
manual, buy one now! It is good to have
one for any repairs now and in the
future.
period. However, to prolong engine life,
it is recommended that the engine be
properly warmed up before operating
under maximum boost.
TOOLS NEEDED: 8, 10, 12, 14, 17,
and 22-mm socket and wrenches, and
an 11-mm (7/16”) socket or wrench, 8mm Allen wrench, Phillips and straight
blade screwdrivers, vice grip pliers, a
drill, a 5/8” drill bit, and a timing light.
You will also need an electric or air
impact gun to remove the alternator pulley (using the 22-mm socket). Most of
these tools are available at your local
hardware or auto parts store.
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY! Follow the instructions
STEP-BY-STEP, and your installation
will be trouble free. If in doubt, CALL 1888-888-4079. We suggest that as you
proceed through the installation, you
should read a few steps ahead in the
instructions so you are certain to catch
all notes and warnings.
WARNING: Once the installation is
complete, CHECK AND RECHECK ALL
fuel system connections for possible
leaks before operating the vehicle. 92octane gasoline (or higher) is required
when running a supercharger!
During this installation process, you will
reuse some parts or hardware and not
reinstall others. It is recommended that
you make space for those that you will
reuse, and a separate space for those
that you will not reinstall. In addition,
you should save the parts that will not
get reused in case you ever have rea-
Jackson Racing Supercharger Systems
are designed to be installed by individuals with good mechanical sense and
with the proper tools. Use your best
discretion! The supercharger DOES
NOT require a break-in or warm up
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
son to convert the engine back to stock.
of the two wires is held in place with a
Phillips head screw. One of the wires is
the main supply wire to the alternator. It
is usually the wire on the right hand
side when looking from the passenger
fender. It is this wire that you will be
working near. For safety, Jackson
Racing has you remove the entire
ground system so that the entire car
has no power. But, by removing the
Phillips screw and the main power wire
to the alternator you can save your
radio codes and still be safe from electrical shock or sparks from the top alternator power lead. The danger to using
this system is that the fuel pump system still has power. It could be turned
on inadvertently causing a fire and bodily harm. If you choose to use the
power lead removal method, instead of
the shutdown of the entire system as
Jackson Racing recommends, you do
so at your own risk.
Enclosed are a set of labels that we
suggest you use to label the electrical
connectors that you will be unplugging.
If the vehicle has over 15,000 miles on
the fuel filter, a new fuel filter will be
required. A new fuel filter is available at
your local Honda dealer. Always use
genuine Honda parts.
This is also a good time to change your
oil and filter as the oil filter must be
removed for installation of the supercharger on models with an oil cooler
mounted under the oil filter (some nonU.S. vehicles). It is a good idea to start
draining the oil, oil filter, and coolant
first. This will allow for all fluids to drain
completely before you start working
under the car.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
2. Put your car on jack stands. NEVER
WORK UNDER A CAR NOT SUPPORTED BY JACKSTANDS OR RAMPS.
1. VERY IMPORTANT! Remove the
negative battery cable. If you have a
coded alarm on your radio, retrieve the
code before removing the negative
cable. On our test vehicle, both the
alarm and radio codes were on a card
received at vehicle purchase. Removing
the negative cable shuts down the
entire electrical system and is the
safest way to work on your vehicle. But,
you will lose all of your preset radio stations and alarm codes. There is one
other option. If you open the “underhood” fuse box on the passenger side
of the inner fender you will find two
main wires entering the fuse box. Each
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3. Drain the cooling system as you will
be replacing some hoses and the intake
manifold.
NOTE: When draining the coolant,
carefully blow compressed air, if available through the top of the radiator
while holding a shop towel over the top
of the radiator and air blowing device.
This will purge the majority of coolant
from the block and will keep you from
getting dripped on while working under
the car.
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
4. Unplug the Air Temperature
(T/A) sensor harness from the
T/A sensor on the intake rubber
hose. The wire colors are green
with a black stripe and red with
a yellow stripe. Apply a label to
this wiring harness.
5. Remove the large diameter
rubber hose between the air
box and throttle body. Loosen
the clamp at the throttle body
with a Phillips head screwdriver
and slide it off. Disconnect the
double metal pipe assembly
from the tube by removing the
pinch clamp at the pipe/hose
junction.
Illustration 1
the side. Drill a 5/8” hole at this junction
and install one of the rubber grommets
into the newly drilled hole. This will be
connected to the vent fitting on the
valve cover via a 3/8” x 18” hose. The
next hole will be drilled directly below
the first hole about two inches lower.
This will be the new location for the T/A
sensor and grommet. In this way, the
air temperature sensor (T/A) will be
reading the proper air temperature as it
leaves the air box. Clean out any
excess plastic left from the drilling.
Illustration 1
6. Remove the other end of the double
metal pipe assembly by disconnecting it
from the top of the valve cover. The two
other lines connected to the assembly
are water hoses. Remove these two
hoses from where they attach at the
cylinder head and at the bottom of the
throttle body. Remove the double metal
pipe assembly now. It will not be
reused.
7. Remove the air box assembly from
the car. You will be drilling or filing two
5/8” holes. You will be installing two
rubber grommets supplied with the kit in
these holes. One will be for the new
location of the T/A (air temperature)
sensor, location of the the other will be
for the valve cover vent fitting. On the
side of the airbox that faces the distributor, mark a spot one inch down from
the top of the box and one inch in from
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8. Remove the plug and wiring harness
from the area near the base of the
windshield on the driver’s side.
Carefully remove the white plastic
retainer from the throttle cable/cruise
control cable stabilizer bracket..
Illustration 2
9. On the driver’s side inner shock
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
Illustration 2
tower you will find two wiring harness
plugs. You will be removing these two
plugs from their bracket mounted near
the master cylinder. Remove the bracket from the inner fender. You will not be
reusing this bracket.
nect the power steering hose to the
pump. You will need to wrap a protective cloth around the end of the power
steering hose when you remove it from
the pump. Once disconnected, lay the
hose out of the way, near the driver’s
side hood pivot.
10. Reroute the wiring harnesses so
that they go over the top of the shock
tower, instead of around it. Route the
forward set from the area near the
cruise control servo, following the
windshield washer hose, and reconnect
them near the area where the throttle
cable/cruise control cable stabilizer
bracket is located. Illustration 3
12. To disconnect the throttle cable,
loosen the 12-mm nut on the throttle
cable and remove it from the bracket.
Pull the throttle body wide open, and
push the small cylinder at the end of
the throttle cable out the side of the
throttle control, thus disconnecting the
throttle cable. Pull the throttle cable and
lay it out of the way. Remove the two
10-mm headed bolts that held the throttle cable bracket to the intake manifold.
You will be reusing the two bolts to hold
the new throttle cable bracket to the
new intake manifold.
11. For power steering equipped cars,
you can work around the power steering hose if you wish, but we recommend that you remove it from the main
pump. First, clamp the supply line that
connects the power steering reservoir
to the pump. To clamp the supply line,
gently squeeze it closed with a pair of
vice grip type pliers or a clamp.
Remove the two 10-mm bolts that con-
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13. Disconnect the power brake hose
from the back of the intake manifold.
14. Disconnect the cruise control and
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
fuel pressure regulator vacuum hoses.
These hoses will be replaced during the
installation process.
The wire colors are green with a white
stripe, red with a green stripe, and yellow with a red stripe. Apply a label to
this wiring harness.
15. Remove the PCV hose where it
attaches to the intake manifold. Lift up
on the actual PCV valve where it plugs
into a grommet between two of the
intake runners. Remove the hose from
the PCV valve and reinstall the hose on
the PCV valve in reverse direction, with
the tight bend near the PCV valve and
the less tight bend facing down and
away from the PCV valve.
17. Unplug the Throttle Position Switch
(TPS) harness from the throttle body.
The wire colors are yellow with a blue
stripe, red with a black stripe, and
green with a black stripe. This plug and
the MAP plug can be mistakenly interchanged. Always double check your
wire colors. Apply a label to this wiring
harness.
18. Locate the Purge Cut Solenoid
Valve on the center of the fuel rail. It
has one hose that is routed to the charcoal canister at the base of the firewall
near the passenger footwell, and one
that attaches to the intake manifold.
Remove the entire hose, that is routed
to the intake manifold, from the car.
Remove the electrical plug. Apply the
proper label to this wiring harness now.
Unbolt the Purge Valve from the fuel rail
and lay it out of the way with the one
hose still connected.
16. Unplug the Manifold Absolute
Pressure (MAP) sensor harness mounted directly on top of the throttle body.
new wiring harness
location on top of
shock tower
19. Remove the connectors from the
fuel injectors. Disconnect the fuel injector wiring harness from the bracket on
the fuel rail. Remove the plastic cover
and set it aside. It will not be reused.
20. Remove the bracket that held the
fuel injector wire harness cover to the
fuel rail. This bracket will not be reused.
Illustration 3
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
WARNING! Do not smoke during
these procedures.
fuel rail and the intake manifold. Save
them for reinstallation.
21. Remove the gas cap to relieve any
fuel pressure, then reinstall.
28. Disconnect the one inch coolant
hose from the intake manifold on the
passenger’s side, near the cylinder
head’s #4 intake port. This hose will be
replaced by a 5/8” x 26” heater hose
later in the installation.
22. From the driver’s side of the manifold, remove the fuel return line from
the factory fuel pressure regulator located on the fuel rail.
29. Unbolt the throttle body by removing the two 12-mm bolts and the two
12-mm nuts. The two bolts will be reinstalled. The nuts will not be reused.
23. Remove the fuel return line from its
stabilizer bracket on the lower part of
the intake manifold.
24. Remove the factory fuel pressure
regulator by removing the two 10-mm
bolts. The factory fuel pressure regulator will be reinstalled later using an
adapter to rotate its orientation.
30. Disconnect the coolant hose on the
driver’s side of the Idle Air Control (IAC)
valve. The IAC valve is located next to
the throttle body, on the backside of the
intake manifold. It has a coolant hose
that connects it to the throttle body.
Leave the hose connected to the throttle body. Remove the other hose on the
IAC valve. This hose is on the driver’s
side of the IAC valve. It connects to the
main water pipe.
25. Disconnect the high-pressure fuel
supply hose from the passenger side of
the fuel rail CAREFULLY! The hose
may still be under high pressure. Disconnect the hose by unscrewing the 22mm nut on the end of the fuel rail. Do
NOT lose the two aluminum crush
washers on either side of the fuel line
“banjo” fitting.
31. Unplug the IAC valve. The wire colors are yellow with a black stripe and
black with a blue stripe. Apply a label to
this wiring harness.
26. Remove the fuel rail from the
intake manifold by removing the three
10-mm hex nuts. Then remove the fuel
injectors from the fuel rail and put the
injectors back in the injector holes in
the engine block to prevent debris from
going into the engine.
32. Remove the IAC valve and the
throttle body as a unit by removing the
two 12-mm bolts that hold the IAC valve
to the back of the intake manifold. The
two bolts will be reinstalled later.
33. We now move under the car. The
intake manifold mounting hardware can
be accessed from the top of the engine
27. Remove the three brown phenolic
spacers that are located between the
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
if you have a good selection of sockets
and extensions. Move to step 41.
small tab with a welded nut attached to
it. You will need to bend the bracket flat
against the side of the oil separator box
so it will clear the supercharger.
Otherwise you will need to follow along
with the next instructions.
40. With the oil separator box and oil
filter removed, the lower intake manifold
nuts are accessible. We will now
remove the factory intake manifold.
NOTE: Removing the catalytic converter and head pipe "A" will make access
to the bottom of the intake manifold
easier but it is not required.
41. There are five 12-mm nuts/bolts on
the bottom of the intake manifold. From
beneath the car, remove four of the
nuts/bolts starting from the driver's side.
The fifth nut/bolt on the bottom of the
intake manifold, closest to the passenger side, will be removed from above
the car.
34. Remove the two nuts holding the
lower head pipe assembly (“A” pipe) to
the support bracket.
35. Unplug the O2 sensor and remove
the "A" pipe from the exhaust manifold
and catalytic converter. Apply penetrating oil to the nuts at the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter to ease
removal.
42. Remove the five 12-mm nuts in the
top of the intake manifold.
36. Remove the oil filter if you have not
done so already. Have a drain pan
available, as some oil will drip out.
43. Remove the intake manifold by
sliding it off the ten studs. The factory
intake manifold will not be reinstalled.
37. Remove the exhaust pipe support
bracket by removing the two 14-mm
hex bolts that hold the bracket to the
engine block. One of these bolts also
holds the oil separator box in place.
44. Remove the fuel return line from
the base of the firewall. Connect the
1/4” x 20” fuel return line supplied in the
kit. Use the new fuel line clamps provided. The free end will be connected later.
38. Remove the intake manifold support bracket by removing the five 12mm bolts.
45. The water hose for the IAC valve in
the main water pipe needs to be indexed (or pointed) in a position that is
15o below horizontal. If the fitting is not
below horizontal it will hit on the bottom
of the supercharger and the line will be
pinched. CAREFULLY, using a punch
or screwdriver, insert it into the fitting
and gently apply pressure until the
39. Remove the black oil separator box
by pulling it away from the engine block
and disconnecting the PCV connector
hose fitting and the vent hose on top of
the oil separator box. You will find a
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
water pipe is at least 15o below horizontal. If it is a little further down, that is
acceptable.
46. Loosen the power steering pump.
Remove the belt. This belt will be reinstalled.
bolts that hold the lower alternator
bracket to the engine block. The bracket
will not be reinstalled, but the bolts will.
56. Loosely attach the supercharger
support bracket (flat bracket with one
hole and one slot) to the lower alternator mount casting using the M8 x 25
flange bolt supplied. The slotted end of
the support bracket will be attached to
the supercharger later in the installation.
47. Loosen the tension pulley for the
air conditioning belt and remove the
belt. This belt will be reinstalled.
48. Remove the factory alternator belt.
This belt will not be reinstalled and will
be replaced by the 800-mm belt supplied in the kit.
57. Install the lower alternator mount
casting and support bracket onto the
engine block. Fully tighten the three
alternator mount bolts. Leave the
flange bolt for the support bracket hand
tight with the support bracket laying
down out of the way. Illustration 4
(support bracket not shown)
49. Install the 800-mm belt supplied in
the kit over the crank pulley only.
50. Remove the 12-mm top bolt and
nut holding the alternator on its upper
bracket. You will be reusing the nut in
installation #65.
51. Remove the 14-mm bottom nut
holding the alternator pivot bolt on its
lower bracket. Remove the pivot bolt.
58. With the alternator removed, it is a
good time to modify the power steering
metal pipe where it goes past the alternator. This metal pipe is the low-pressure return line from the steering rack.
It has a rubber hose connected to it. To
straighten, remove the pipe from the
plastic retainer bracket on the lower
frame rail. Gently bend the end of the
pipe, where the rubber hose is
clamped, up from the stock vertical
position (Illustration 4) until the pipe is
in a horizontal position (Illustration 5). It
should now be facing back towards the
firewall. With the butt end of a mallet
finish pushing the pipe back until it is on
top of the frame rail. The pipe will give
under pressure. It is important to move
the pipe back as the supercharger belt
will be routed through this area.
Illustration 4 and 5
52. Remove the alternator from its
bracket.
53. Remove the 22-mm nut holding the
alternator pulley to the alternator using
an impact gun. Replace the stock pulley
with the double alternator pulley supplied with the kit. The factory alternator
pulley will not be reused.
54. Remove the round, press-in, bushing from the factory lower alternator
bracket and install it in the lower alternator mount casting supplied in the kit.
55. Remove the three 14-mm headed
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
original power steering hose location
new alternator
mount and idler
Illustration 5
outer set of ribs on the alternator pulley.
NOTE: Make sure the belt goes over
the top of the lower idler pulley.
62. Install the aluminum supercharger
belt tensioner bracket with the two
studs sticking out of it. Slide the two
threaded studs through the original
upper alternator bracket adjustment
slot. Install the bracket studs from the
outside of the original bracket slot facing in towards the engine. Illustration 6
Illustration 4
63. Install the two 1/8-inch steel spacers on the stud closest to firewall.
59. Reinstall the alternator with the factory bottom mounting bolt. The bolt is
long and square-headed. Make sure the
square head is on the passenger's side
and that it is positioned so that it will not
turn when the nut is tightened.
64. On the stud closest to the engine
block, install one 8-mm flange nut. Only
hand tighten this nut at this time.
65. Install the 10 x 20-mm bolt supplied
with the kit to attach the "L" shaped
bracket to the cylinder head.
Illustration 6
60. Install the 610-mm belt supplied
with the kit on the alternator pulley
around the set of ribs closest to the
alternator.
61. Slide the 800-mm belt previously
looped around crank pulley over the
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66. Using a new 8 x 40-mm bolt supplied with the kit, install it through the
alternator upper stabilizer bracket (short
steel bracket with two holes supplied
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Revised 05-02
Supercharger Installation Instructions
with the kit) and through the upper
alternator mounting hole. Install an 8 x
1.25-mm nut removed in #50 onto this
upper alternator mounting bolt.
Illustration 6
belt tensioner
bracket
67. Take the other end of the alternator
stabilizer bracket and install it on to the
stud closest to the firewall that we had
previously installed the two 1/8” steel
spacers on. Secure it with the nut supplied in the kit. These operations will
hold the alternator in a secure, preset
location. The alternator will no longer
act as an adjuster. Illustration 6
10x20 bolt
68. Wedge the bracket back towards
the firewall while torquing all the nuts.
Torque all the 8-mm nuts on the belt
drive/alternator stabilizer bracket to 16
ft-lbs. Then tighten the lower alternator
pivot nut on the square headed bolt.
This is easier from under the car.
8x40 bolt for
upper alternator mount
upper stabilizer
bracket
69. Plug in the knock sensor if it has
been disconnected (gray plug with one
red/blue wire).
Illustration 6
70. The heater hose running from the
firewall to the cylinder head needs to be
rerouted. Relocate the heater hose
under, instead of over, the lower radiator hose where it mounts to the thermostat housing. Unbolt the heater control
valve bracket at the firewall and move
the assembly down to the lower of the
two original mounting studs and retighten the 10-mm headed nut. Bend the
small bracket that held the charcoal
it comes off the heater control bracket.
This will clear the area where the throttle body will exist. Illustration 7
71. Remove the short black hose and
connector that was inserted into the oil
separator box. Install the upper PCV
valve and hose, reversed earlier, into
the oil separator hole that the short
black hose was just removed from.
Route the PCV hose towards the passenger fender and then down next to
canister/Purge hose back and forth until
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“L” bracket
@ cylinder
head
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Revised 05-02
Supercharger Installation Instructions
tor box to the engine block.
purge hose bracket
73. Route the main wiring
harness so that it goes outside of the oil separator box
and above the oil filter. It
should eventually end up
near the top of the alternator
area. You will need as much
“slack" in the wiring harness
as possible as you will be
heater control valve
routing the wiring around the
new intake manifold and up
Illustration 7
to the fuel injectors. You may
want to open the protective
the transmission. You will be reconnectplastic sheathing from around the wiring
ing this hose to a fitting in the bottom of
harness where the Throttle Position
the throttle body casting later in the
sensor wires and MAP sensor wires
installation.
come out of. Carefully open the plastic
sheathing with a razor or knife and
72. Reinstall the oil separator box back
remove 4-6” of additional wire length
onto the engine block and reconnect the
from the sheathing. Retape the wires
upper hose that ran from the oil separaand sheathing. This will allow more
room for connection to the TPS and
MAP sensors. Illustration 8
WARNING! Do not smoke during
these procedures.
74. Locate the pressure switch supplied with the kit. Wrap the threads of
the pressure switch in teflon tape.
Install it on the Jackson Racing intake
manifold supplied with the kit.
NOTE: These next operations are best
done with two people, one on each side
of the car. It makes handling the supercharger much easier.
Illustration 8
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75. Lay the supercharger assembly
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
down into the back of the engine compartment and allow it to rest on top of
the alternator. Illustration 9
for easier installation.
78. Lift the supercharger into place
while placing the free end of the by-
76. Slide the new intake manifold on
the studs on the back of the cylinder
head and tighten the ten 12-mm nuts to
16 ft-lbs. You should be able to reach
all of the intake manifold nuts and bolts
from the top of the manifold with a long
extension and a good 12-mm socket.
You probably will not have to tighten
any from below unless you do not have
enough extensions or sockets.
pass hose over the nipple on the supercharger inlet manifold.
79. Secure the supercharger to the
intake manifold using the four allen
bolts supplied in the kit. The two bolts
nearest the engine block need a small
amount of blue Loctite prior to installation. The Loctite will dry quickly so
install the bolts expeditiously. However,
be VERY careful not to drop bolts into
the manifold runners! Tighten all four
bolts to 16 ft-lbs. This operation will
require one person to hold the supercharger in place while the other person
starts and then tightens all the bolts.
77. Center the supercharger outlet gasket supplied with the kit on the flat lip,
square hole, of the supercharger.
Lubricate the bypass hose with WD40
80. Wrap the pipe plugs provided in the
kit with teflon tape and screw them into
the top of the intake manifold covering
the two allen bolts just installed. Do not
overtighten these plugs. They are
tapered and need very little torque to
seal correctly.
81. Looking up from under the car,
check that all the hoses and wires are
routed so they will not be chafed by the
supercharger. Also make sure that
everything is clear of the oil filter so that
it can be easily removed for oil
changes.
82. Wrap the 1/8 NPT x 5/16” x 90o
barbed pipe fitting with Teflon tape.
Then screw it into the bottom of the
Illustration 9
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
straight, remove the Flat Strap Bracket
and reinstall it correctly. Illustration 10
86. Reinstall the down pipe and support
bracket.
87. Reconnect the O2 sensor.
88. From above the car connect the
5/8” x 26” heater hose to the large
brass fitting on the passenger end of
the intake manifold. Secure it with a
new #10 clamp. This hose will replace
the “U” shaped hose that was installed
at the factory. Connect the loose end of
the hose around the throttle body and
connect it to the thermostat housing
where the original “U” shaped hose was
connected. Clamp it using a new #10
clamp provided.
Illustration 10
supercharger/throttle body inlet casting
if it has not been done already. This
hose barb is for the PCV valve hose.
89. There is a small bracket with a
square hole bolted to the Jackson
Racing intake manifold. Use a #8 hose
clamp to secure the 5/8” heater hose
installed in the previous step to the
small bracket as indicated in
Illustration 11. This will hold the 5/8”
coolant hose out of the way of the throttle cable once the throttle cable is
installed. Failure to clamp this hose will
allow the heater hose to make contact
with the throttle cable and can cause
loss of control of the throttle causing the
vehicle to become unsafe. Illustration 11
83. Find the hose that we routed
from the PCV valve along the side of
the oil separator box. Connect it to the
inlet fitting on the bottom of the throttle
body inlet manifold.
84. Reinstall the oil filter or install a new
oil filter.
85. Attach the supercharger support
bracket to the triangular upper support
bracket using the M8x40 bolt, one thick
spacer, one 8-mm flat washer, and one
M8 Nyloc Nut supplied. Fully tighten
both of the upper and lower support
bracket bolts. The supercharger support bracket must NOT contact the
alternator. If it does or if it is not
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90. Install the throttle body with the two
12-mm hex bolts supplied in the kit and
two original bolts.
91. Attach the IAC valve to the manifold
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
Illustration 11
throttle cable bracket
Always use genuine
Honda filters when possible.
L bracket for hose
95. One of the remaining empty fittings above
the throttle body should
have the vacuum hose
for the supercharger
#8 clamp
bypass valve hose connected to it. Connect the
new 5/32” x 24” vacuum
hose from the plastic
cruise control connector,
water injection
5/8” heater near the firewall, to the
pressure switch
plug
hose
other vacant vacuum fitting on the throttle body
power brake fitting
bypass valve
inlet casting.
with the two 12-mm bolts of different
96. Reconnect the Manifold Absolute
lengths that were removed earlier.
Pressure (MAP) sensor and Throttle
Position Sensor (TPS). Check the
92. Connect a 5/16” x 10” coolant hose
color codes for proper connections.
from the vacant fitting on the intake
cylinder head, near the #4 cylinder, to
97. Reinstall the throttle cable mounting
the metal pipe that connects to the botnuts through the new throttle cable
tom of the throttle body. Clamp and
bracket and tighten the assembly to
route this hose so that it does not interthe top of the intake manifold on the flat
fere with the throttle linkage operation.
area near the passenger side of the
intake manifold. Refer to Illustration
93. Connect a 5/16” x 10” hose from the
Reconnect the throttle cable to the
11.
fitting on the intake manifold above the
throttle body and secure the throttle
#4 cylinder. Route it to the metal pipe
cable in the bracket. Check for full throton the bottom of the throttle body.
tle operation and for the throttle to
Clamp and route this hose so that it
come back to the idle stop screw.
does not interfere with the throttle linkage operation.
98. Install the new large diameter rubber flex hose that connects the throttle
94. If the vehicle has over 15,000 miles
body to the air box. Secure the hose
on the fuel filter, replace the fuel filter
with the new clamps provided.
now. A new fuel filter should be
available at your local Honda dealer.
989-250
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Revised 05-02
Supercharger Installation Instructions
99. Make sure all the belts are correctly
aligned on the ribs and pulleys.
Note: Because this belt is short, it has
very little time to cool unlike the longer
belts. Consequently, you should plan on
changing this belt every 15,000 miles or
approximately once per year, whichever
comes first.
100. Adjust the alternator belt tension
by loosening the 17-mm idler pinch nut
on the lower idler and adjusting with the
10-mm headed tensioner screw. Tighten
until 90-120 lbs. of belt tension is available. Plan on retightening the belt after
5-15 minutes. Ninety pounds of tension
can be estimated by when a foot long
stretch of belt has a 3/8-inch perpendicular deflection. Retighten the 17-mm
pinch nut.
103. Reinstall the power steering and
air conditioning belts. Tighten the tension in the power steering belt with the
wing nut bolt. Tighten the two 12-mm
bolts holding the power steering pump.
Tighten the tension in the air conditioning belt. Tighten the tension in these
belts to 90-120 pounds.
101. Do not over-tighten the belt as it
will create excess load on the idler
bearings and shorten belt life. If you are
not familiar with belt tension, or you do
not have a belt tension gauge, refer to
your factory manual for proper belt tension sequence. Complete by tightening
the pinch bolt of the idler from underneath the car.
104. Install the fuel injectors into the
fuel rail.
105. Reinstall the three phenolic spacers over the holes for the bolts that hold
the fuel rail to the intake manifold.
Note: To help keep the spacers from
falling off the intake manifold holes during installation, put a small amount of
grease on one side of the spacer and
then put that side down on the intake
manifold.
102. Finalize the supercharger belt tensioning by installing the belt under the
idler pulley and attached slotted bracket. Tighten the tension of the belt to
ONLY 35 pounds of belt tension by
tightening the 10-mm headed tensioner
bolt from above the slotted bracket.
When the belt tension is proper, tighten
the two 12-mm headed adjustment
bolts and the 10-mm jam nut on the
tensioner bolt. This belt is very short
and does not need much tension as it
has very little area of rubber to stretch.
Longer belts stretch more than shorter
belts. Do not over-tighten either belt.
989-250
106. Reinstall the fuel rail and injectors.
Note: Be VERY careful not to knock
anything into the fuel injector holes!
Tighten the three 10-mm flange bolts
supplied with the kit securing the fuel
rail to the intake manifold.
107. Install the fuel injector regulator
adapter on the fuel rail with the “O” ring
and two allen head bolts supplied.
Install the factory fuel pressure regulator using the two original 10 x 20-mm
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Revised 05-02
Supercharger Installation Instructions
bolts and the original “O” ring. Attach a
vacuum line to one of the two barbed
fittings on the back of the intake manifold.
leaving the fittings facing the driver’s
fender in a horizontal position.
112. Connect the CENTER fitting of the
regulator to the fuel return line from the
base of the firewall. Clamp the hose
with the new clamps provided.
108. Install the high pressure fuel hose
from the fuel filter to the fuel rail.
109. Clip the fuel injector plugs back on
the proper injector.
113. Connect the OUTER fitting on the
regulator to the original factory fuel
pressure regulator using the fuel hose
supplied. Clamp the hose with the new
clamps provided.
110. Bolt the new Purge Control bracket
to the original Purge Control mounting
holes using the original bolts and the
new bolts and nuts provided. Install the
Purge Valve onto the new bracket so
that the Purge Valve does not interfere
with the intake manifold. Reconnect the
harness to the Purge Valve. Reconnect
the hose from the Charcoal Canister to
the Purge Valve if it got removed. Cut
the power brake hose approximately
three inches up from where it mounts to
the intake manifold. Insert the new vacuum tee, provided, in between the hose
you just cut. Connect the 5/16” x 24”
hose supplied to the tee and route it up
and over the shock tower and connect
to the vacuum end of the Purge Valve.
Clamp with the #6 clamps provided.
Reconnect the Power Brake hose to the
fitting in the middle of the Jackson
Racing intake manifold.
114. Reconnect the wiring harness
plugs near the base of the windshield
on the driver’s side. Make sure the harness will not come into contact with any
moving parts. Clip the white plastic clip
back into the throttle cable/cruise control cable stabilizer bracket.
115. Attach the vacuum line from the
Jackson Racing fuel pressure regulator
to the lower vacuum fitting on the back
of the intake manifold.
116. Reinstall the airbox with the new
grommets installed.
117. Connect a 3/8” x 18” hose from the
valve cover vent to the new vent fitting
in one of the airbox grommets.
Illustration 12
111. To install the Jackson Racing fuel
pressure regulator (Fuel Management
Unit or FMU), pull the small plastic tab
out of the firewall next to the throttle
cable support bracket. Then screw the
M6x10 flange bolt, supplied, through
the regulator clamp and into the firewall
989-250
118. Install the T/A sensor into the other
vacant grommet just installed into the
airbox. Illustration 12
119. Connect the Jackson Racing Fuel
Enrichment Relay supplied with kit.
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Revised 05-02
Supercharger Installation Instructions
Using a “T-Tap”,
connect it to the yellow wire with black
stripe that goes into
the distributor. A
wiring diagram is on
the last
page of these
instructions.
120. Refill the
engine oil and
coolant.
Illustration 12
121. Reattach the
negative ground
wire to the negative battery terminal or
reattach the main alternator lead inside
the “underhood” fuse box.
Locate the wiring harness and plug that
was plugged into the T/A sensor. Cut
the red wire with the yellow stripe
approximately 2 inches from the plug.
Connect the two new wiring harness’
red/yellow wires to the original red wire
with yellow stripe that was cut in half.
Route the remaining wires and relay to
the inner fender on the passenger’s
side of the engine compartment. Use a
plastic wire tie to secure the relay to the
bottom of the fuel filter bracket. Some
models and countries have a vent hose
connected to this square hole in the fuel
filter bracket. Remove the hose and tie
the Enrichment device to this square
hole. Using one of the other plastic ties,
secure the vent hose to one of the
brake lines that are routed across the
back of the firewall. Route the loose
wire, with the female spade connector,
to the pressure switch. Route the
remaining yellow/black wire, up to the
distributor wire harness.
989-250
122. Enter the alarm and radio codes to
activate each.
123. To ensure proper belt tension, run
the vehicle until it warms up. Recheck
the belt tension and readjust the tension
back to the proper level.
124. Check the tension in the belts
every 10,000 miles.
125. While the engine is warmed up,
reset the ignition timing to 10o BTDC for
93 octane fuel, 7o BTDC for 92 octane
fuel.
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Revised 05-02
Supercharger Installation Instructions
perature allowing better power and less
chance of detonation in hot climates.
TIPS:
Now that you have added substantial
power to your Honda, here are some
tips for best performance and long life.
If you are forcing more air into the
engine, you want to ensure you have
plenty of fuel. The stock fuel pump
works great when new for normal highway use. However, like a radiator, it can
grow weak with age and run out of volume in high demand, sustained (racing)
loads. Our high output fuel pumps are
just the ticket. Our fuel pumps fit in the
original in-tank bracket for ease of
installation. The design is capable of
sustained high demand without loosing
pressure.
Install one of our Charge Air Induction
air filter systems. This true velocity
stack high flow filter allows air into the
supercharger in much greater volumes,
thus, allowing the supercharger to produce even more air than with a stock
airbox. For those people that want to
retain their stock airboxes, install one of
our “Power Foam” air filters as a “dropin” to your stock air box. It will improve
air volume and will keep the air
extremely clean. In supercharged
engines, the cleaner the air flows in, the
better power it will make. The one thing
you do not want to do is make the
supercharger have to pull hard to get air.
Allow the engine to warm up for at least
3-5 miles before you start working the
engine hard, longer in extremely cold
conditions as it will take a substantial
amount of time to get the oil warmed
completely to operating temperature.
Running an engine without the oil being
up to operating temperature is very
hard on your engine. Install a good oil
cooler to keep your oil from getting too
hot and from breaking down prematurely. During our “Back to Back” SCCA
Endurance Championships, we saw
over 300oF of oil temperature in our
race cars with relatively close to stock
engines. It makes sense that with the
additional power you are now generating from your supercharger, installing
an oil cooler kits will help maintain long
engine life and provide additional power.
Keep your cooling system in good
shape. Never run more than 50% antifreeze coolant to water ratio in the
engine, if possible. Water cools better
than coolant but does not have the high
resistance to boiling or ability to resist
freezing. So you must keep SOME
antifreeze coolant in the engine, but try
to run as little as possible. If you
haven’t replaced your thermostat and
your car has over 30,000 miles on it,
order one of our 160oF, low temperature
thermostat. It will keep the operating
temperature lower allowing better power
and resistance to detonation.
Although the stock Honda exhaust system is very good, a good header and
cat-back system will help relieve any
Order a set of our colder spark plugs for
summer use. This, like the thermostat,
will lower the combustion chamber tem-
989-250
-18-
Revised 05-02
Supercharger Installation Instructions
have a more aggressive ignition-timing
curve. This is very counter-productive in
supercharged engines.
back pressure. The easier the exhaust
gets out of the engine, the better the
good air will get in. Keep in mind, in a
supercharged engine, as the air gets
through the engine better, the boost will
actually go DOWN, but the power will
go UP! So, don’t be surprised if you
start improving the intake air and
exhaust system and your boost actually
starts reading slightly lower than it did
when it was all stock. Conversely, if
your catalytic converter is starting to
deteriorate, you will see higher boost
than normal, but your engine will perform poorly.
Do not run an after market camshaft
with a supercharger unless it has been
specifically designed for supercharging.
Most non-supercharged, high performance camshafts depend on having
both intake and exhaust valves open at
the same time to help fill the cylinders.
This, also, is counterproductive to
superchargers. Anytime that both valves
are open the boost goes out the
exhaust port and will never be seen
again.
If your car has 70,000 miles or 7 years
on it, you might want to think about
replacing your old radiator with a new
one from Honda. We have found that
the calcium deposit (from hard water)
that collects on the internal cooling
tubes of old radiators will actually insulate the hot coolant from the outside air,
even though the radiator still has good
coolant flow. No radiator repair shops
that we have experience with can
remove this calcium deposit. More
importantly, your stock coolant temperature gauge in your car will move to normal when the coolant temperature
reaches a temperature near 160oF, but
your stock gauge will not show any
change or movement in temperature
until the engine coolant temperature
reaches nearly 220oF. This means that
you could be trying to operate you
supercharged engine in a hostile environment that is 60o hotter than is ideal.
Do not run “Upgrade Chips” in your
supercharged engine. Most “chips”
989-250
The stock ignition system is quite good,
as it is the same ignition that is used in
all models including the Type R with
nearly 200 hp. This is not to say that
some of the aftermarket systems might
not work well. It is just an observation.
We recommend using the stock system
until you encounter a problem igniting
the mixture. Then try some of the ignitions that are commercially available.
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Revised 05-02