PARIS ISSUE
Transcription
PARIS ISSUE
k THE CHIC WAY TO TRAVEL IN FRANCE SECOND ISSUE / AUTUMN-WINTER 2015 PARIS ISSUE Haute Couture, High Jewellery, High Gastronomy, The Essence of French Style NINE D’URSO photographed by ELLEN VON UNWERTH Joséphine Collection Aigrette Impériale Ring c h a u m e t. c o m Le Jack de Lancel Le Charlie de Lancel THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS TO EVERY RULE.* SHOWROOM AUDEMARS PIGUET PLACE DE L’OPÉRA - PARIS 01.40.20.45.45 MILLENARY SERTIE DE DIAMANTS. dior.com Le nouveau rouge à lèvres - Osez briller THE NEW LIPSTICK CŒUR HYDRA-GEL - BRILLANCE MIROIR K 15. EDITO - 17. THINKPIECE 19. GUESTS 20. OUT AND ABOUT 24. CAPITAL TIPS 26. INSPIRATION - 32. TRENDS 42. ATTITUDES So Parisian, So Cool With her sense of style, relaxed elegance and art de vivre, the Parisienne still lives up to her legend. Here are 20 easy-to-follow tips to embrace the lifestyle on her home turf. BY VALÉRIE DE SAINT-PIERRE ILLUSTRATIONS JEAN ANDRÉ 46. COVER STORY Nine d’Urso, Modern Heroine In a special photo session, Inès de La Fressange’s eldest daughter models the autumn/winter 2015 haute couture stand-out pieces, and talks to virtuoso novelist Arthur Dreyfus, who is charmed by her wit and style. BY ARTHUR DREYFUS PHOTOGRAPHY ELLEN VON UNWERTH STYLING NICOLE PICART 62. ICON Léa Seydoux, The Mystery She is the next James Bond Girl in Sam Mendes’ Spectre. Talented, sensual and elusive, the Palme d’Or winner embodies the very essence of French excellence. BY RICHARD GIANORIO PHOTOGRAPHY MATHIEU CÉSAR STYLING DELPHINE PERROY 72. PORTRAIT Benjamin Millepied, Free Variations Since Benjamin Millepied took over as dance director almost a year ago, the prestigious Opéra de Paris has been given a new lease of life. The choreographer and former New York City Ballet star talks about his French dream. BY ÉLISABETH QUIN PHOTOGRAPHY JEAN-BAPTISTE MONDINO STYLING NICOLE PICART 80. PORTFOLIO Style Gurus Alexa Chung, Isabel Marant, Carine Roitfeld, Karl Lagerfeld, Haider Ackermann – their look is their signature, a way of making themselves recognisable instantly. Over time, it has become part of their identity. Caroline de Maigret, the “ideal Parisienne”, lists her top five fashion icons. INTERVIEWS AND PHOTOGRAPHY CAROLINE DE MAIGRET 86. ESSENTIALS Dream Jewels Golden laces, lacquer mosaics, baton-cut diamonds and feathers paired with emeralds... Jewels in the crown of modern craftmanship and high-jewellery design. PHOTOGRAPHY PIERRE MANDEREAU STYLING SOPHIE VIGIÉ VISUAL ARTIST NICOLAS D’OLCE m j Nine d’Urso (Marilyn Agency): apron-dress in velvet and black leather, white jersey leotard with sailor-striped sleeves, cap and clogs, Gaultier Paris. K 98. STYLE Winter Garden Flowers blossom in this season’s collections, bringing a bohemian touch to flippy skirts and bootcut trousers. Get ready for neo flower power. PHOTOGRAPHY MADS & MAGNUS STYLING VÉRONIQUE CARRÉ CALLIGRAPHY NICOLAS OUCHENIR 108. STYLE Art Matters Studded and embroidered leathers, refined finishes, fur patchworks, metallic pythons... Bags and shoes are party animals that love to stand out from the crowd. PHOTOGRAPHY JEAN-NOËL LEBLANC-BONTEMPS STYLING VÉRONIQUE CARRÉ 118. BEAUTY Beauty and the Best Top products, incredible palettes, surprising lacquers and exquisite fragrances with an haute couture feel, expert advice, all about beauty news. BY PAULINE CASTELLANI, CÉCILE GUERRIER, MARION LOUIS AND BRIGITTE PAPIN PHOTOGRAPHY KARINA TWISS STYLING JULIE GILLET 128. ART DE VIVRE Star Chefs’ New Hot Spots Yannick Alléno, Adeline Grattard and Chi Wa Chan, Jean-François Piège, Guy Savoy, Sylvestre Wahid – five excessively talented Michelin winners present their new Paris restaurants. BY MARIE-CATHERINE DE LA ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID COULON ILLUSTRATIONS FAARO STUDIO 134. INTERIORS Wall to Wall Parisian Chic A guided tour of one of international architect Pierre Yovanovitch’s major Paris projects with the master himself. A lesson in exquisite design and style. BY FÉLICIA DU ROURET PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICE DE GRANDRY 140. NOTEBOOK Essential Paris An exclusive guide to the French capital’s best addresses: where to shop, eat, drink and have fun. Enjoy the city and its trendiest spots. BY CLAUDINE HESSE, LAURENCE MOUILLEFARINE, VALENTIN PORTIER ILLUSTRATIONS VERONICA DALL’ANTONIA 152. ADDRESSES 154. VICE-VERSA When... A member of the French Academy comments on a sceptical French expression. BY MARC LAMBRON ILLUSTRATION ANTOINE CORBINEAU m j 15 EDITO WHEN FASHION MEETS ART We tend to think of art and fashion as a young couple. However, taking a closer look at the history of clothing, it seems that the predecessors of today’s fashion designers were already inspired by artists of their time. Gabrielle Chanel, the most modern woman of the past century, was familiar with Stravinsky, Cocteau and Picasso, and she never concealed the influence of great artistic trends on her creations – quite the opposite. Artists have long kept their distance from fashion but, over the past ten years, the number of joint projects has increased. Fashion exhibitions (McQueen, Lanvin and Gaultier, to name but a few) have been major attractions for the museums in question. The best-known artists have even turned into brand names whose value is tied to market fluctuations, just like shares on the Dow Jones index. In the meantime, fashion shows have become more and more like live performances. Brands and galleries speak the same language. In fashion as in art, we go to see a “collection”, we note its “sources of inspiration”, then rush to buy the “unique pieces”. But in the end, if fashion and art get along so well today, it’s probably because their respective creators have but one goal: to inspire us and appeal to our sense of aesthetics. And to make visible what our eyes cannot see. “If you could say it in words, there would be no reason to paint.” This is how American artist Edward Hopper, the master of back-lighting and filmic atmospheres, used to explain his paintings. Karl Lagerfeld, too, often says that he “dreams” each of his collections. So, yes, we can enter a gallery as easily as a boutique, and feel a dreamlike quality in the flow of a dress. We just need to keep our eyes wide open. BY ANNE-FLORENCE SCHMITT, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR ILLUSTRATION BY MARC-ANTOINE COULON m j 17 THINKPIECE OUR DEEPEST SECRET IS THERE FOR ALL TO SEE N othing could be more superficial than considering beauty and the essential to be opposites. Anyone who reduces beauty to a futile passion that distracts us from what is essential in life can never have experienced what it’s like to be with others. Contemplate a woman putting on her make-up; there she is, looking to bring out a side of herself that she didn’t know she had up till now. Take the same woman as she changes her lipstick and there transpires a part of her that she didn’t want to see or that she didn’t want to be seen by others. It’s a new colour on her lips, a darker shade, and something jumps out: little by little, she becomes who she is. “Form is what is visible on the surface,” wrote Victor Hugo. Our appearance is determined by our depth, the depth that’s visible. And just to be clear, we’re not talking about women who automatically put on the same social mask everyday, unquestioningly, without ever taking a close look at themselves. No, we’re talking about women who play, who play at making themselves look beautiful, or at scaring themselves; they play a role. Lipstick in hand, facing the mirror, they play at becoming; they play, and yet that’s when they’re at their most genuine. I would even go as far as to say that they are looking for aesthetic pleasure. They want to find themselves beautiful in a Baudelairian sense, whereby “beauty is always bizarre”. They want to feel different, seductive, interesting, they want to surprise themselves, they’re trying to find themselves and they’ve got it right by inviting in a little turmoil; it really is on the outside that our depth can be deciphered. Artists know better than anyone that a surface is never pure, never simple but full of substance. They know that shaping is never a merely formal affair. It’s an indicator to our interiority, with its rich and complex nature that gives it a form, making us aware of its depth. “Superficial in its depth,” wrote Nietzsche. In a way, an artist working with materials in his or her workshop is like a woman putting make-up on. In both cases, the mind looks for truth upon receiving the material. Without embellishment , without a care for the aesthetic, the mind would not be able to confront its own enigma, remaining a stranger to itself. The search for beauty is therefore anything but superficial. The first humans needed to give a face or form to their gods in order to take stock of what they believed in. And every culture has always needed its artists to better understand itself. Can we imagine Egypt without the Sphinx, Greece without its statues of Apollo, Catholic Europe without its cathedrals and without Raphael’s paintings? Can we imagine a mind without a body, a soul without a face? Art is a need everywhere, and beauty a necessity. Art serves to quench a thirst for beauty. I can already hear the objections – Camille Claudel would rectify her sculpture, Rembrandt would touch-up his self-portrait, it’s not exactly the same as a woman choosing between two lipsticks, it’s true. But they have something in common: they dare to play with their appearance in order to get closer to finding out who they really are. BY CHARLES PÉPIN, PHILOSOPHER AND AUTHOR IN 2015 OF LA JOIE (ALLARY EDITIONS) m j 19 GUESTS ALL RIGHTS RESERVED– JEAN-LUC HURE/MADAME FIGARO –NICO/MADAME FIGARO – FE PINHEIRO ELLEN VON UNWERTH She has celebrated the sexiest icons of our time, including Eva Mendes, Dita von Teese, Monica Bellucci, Rihanna, Beyoncé and Madonna. The former assistant of a knife-thrower, Ellen von Unwerth became a model and 80s icon before establishing herself as a photographer in the 90s with magazines such as Interview, I-D, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Cosmopolitan. She has also published books, directed films, music videos and advertising campaigns for Victoria’s Secret, Guess, Diesel and Chanel. For Madame Figaro, she points her lens at haute couture with her unique blend of style and wit. VERONICA DALL’ANTONIA She sketches the world in water colour. Her brush strokes have the strength and the typical Swiss precision. Veronica Dall’Antonia grew up in Lugano, Switzerland, where she studied textile design and visual communication. She subsequently worked in Lausanne, then spent six years in London. Today she lives in Bordeaux, in southwestern France. Prestigious publications have called up on her sensitive and evocative talent, like Glamour, Vanity Fair, Time Out, The Sunday Telegraph and The Guardian. In this issue, Veronica’s paintings, which accompany our guide to what’s hot in the French capital, reveal Paris’ soul. JEAN-BAPTISTE MONDINO His photography reveals his talent as a storyteller, capturing the essence of our time. Mondino is the man behind Madonna, David Bowie and Björk’s most noteworthy videos. The legendary adverts for Jean Paul Gaultier, Dior and Chanel were by him too. He has transformed advertising into an aesthetic adventure, turning film stars into fashion icons, such as Charlize Theron, who sublimely embodies Dior’s “J’adore” fragrance. For Madame Figaro, Mondino photographs Benjamin Millepied, choreographer and director of the Paris Opéra. The result is ten pages of utmost elegance. CAROLINE DE MAIGRET She lives near Pigalle, is always between flights, knows France like the back of her hand and succeeds in everything she does. She studied literature at the Sorbonne before moving to New York and becoming a model. Until 2012, she was Chanel’s brand ambassador, and is now a Lancôme muse. When she returned to France in 2006, she became a music producer and launched Bonus Tracks Records with her partner. In 2014, she co-wrote How To Be Parisian Wherever You Are, which became an instant bestseller. For this issue, she acts as a photojournalist, shares her tips and favourite places in Paris, and draws the portraits of five international fashion icons. NICOLAS OUCHENIR He has created a signature for Miuccia Prada, has been asked to write divorce letters for others, even tattooed people with his beautiful handwriting. Recently he had a solo show at the prestigious Colette concept store in Paris. After graduating from business school, Nicolas Ouchenir quickly realised he was not suited to the world of finance. The Parisborn young man taught himself calligraphy and has become a superstar in the field, working for fashion houses, individuals, even heads of state. For our autumn/winter issue, he enhanced our fashion spreads with his magical interpretation of great French poets. m j 20 OUT AND ABOUT OUR GUIDE TO THE ESSENTIAL CULTURAL HAPPENINGS IN PARIS THIS SEASON. BY LAURENCE MOUILLEFARINE AND VALENTIN PORTIER AUCTION ARMAN, KLEIN, CÉSAR AND OTHERS Art critic Pierre Restany coined the expression New Realism in 1960 to describe the work of visual artists inspired by the consumer society and everyday objects. With his wife, artist Jojo Decock, he built an impressive collection that will be auctioned off at Drouot during the FIAC international art fair. Works include some of Arman’s “accumulations”, César’s “compressions”, posters by Jacques Villeglé, and Restany’s favourite, The Venus of Alexandria by Yves Klein – all straight from the couple’s flat in Montparnasse. Collection Pierre et Jojo Restany, Les Nouveaux réalistes, Drouot, 24 October, 9, rue Drouot, Paris 9th, www.digard.com The Venus of Alexandria by Yves Klein, 1962-1982. PHOTOGRAPHY WOMEN IN THE SPOTLIGHT The contribution of women to photography is a vast subject. So vast, in fact, that two venues were needed to do it justice: the Musée de l’Orangerie, which covers the period from 1839 (when the medium was invented) to 1919; and the Musée d’Orsay, which looks at the years from 1920 to 1945. The exhibition includes famous photographs and lesserknown works by amateurs and professionals from France, the United Kingdom, Germany, Hungary and the United States. A landmark event, presenting a rich and diverse selection of works. Who’s Afraid of Women Photographers? 14 October–24 January, Musée d’Orsay, 1, rue de la Légion-d’Honneur, Paris 7th, www.musee-orsay.fr, and Musée de l’Orangerie, Place de la Concorde, Paris 8th, www.musee-orangerie.fr Woman With Flag by Tina Modotti, 1928. m j 21 PRINTS ANDY’S SHADOWS Andy Warhol’s Shadows (1978-1979), a series of 102 screen prints in 17 colours stretching over 130 metres in length, are coming to Europe for the first time, on loan from the Dia Art Foundation in New York. The exhibition explores the Pope of Pop’s taste for series and includes his Self-Portraits, Brillo Boxes, Cows, Flowers and Silver Clouds in an endless variety of colour schemes. Warhol Unlimited, 2 October 2015– 7 February 2016, Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, 11, avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16th, www.mam.paris.fr/en Shadows by Andy Warhol, 1978-1979. FOLK ART FOR THE LOVE OF AMOUR Amur (or Amour in French, meaning “love”) is the charming name of a river in far eastern Siberia. This exhibition focuses on the artefacts left by the peoples who lived in the region in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, who hunted and fished to survive. It is an opportunity to appreciate their skills in using fish skins and birch bark to make dresses and accessories, and admire the spiral decorations that adorn these fine works. Esthétiques de l’Amour, Musée du Quai Branly, 37, quai Branly, Paris 7th, 3 November- 24 January 2016, www.quaibranly.fr/en Richly decorated salmon-skin dress with stylised bear and other animals on the back, early 20th century. CHOREOGRAPHY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED – MUSÉE DU QUAI BRANLY/THIERRY OLLIVER DANCING QUEEN Trisha Brown, the doyenne of dance who made rooftops and streets her testing grounds, wrote some of the most beautiful chapters in the history of American choreography. She looks back on her 50-year career in four works to be performed at Chaillot, opening with Solos Olos (1976), followed by Sons of Gone Fishin’ (1981) and closing with two more recent pieces, Rogues (2011) and Present Tense (2003). The Théâtre National de Chaillot is hosting a day of workshops and interviews with the Trisha Brown Company on Saturday 7 November. Quatre pièces , by Trisha Brown, 4–13 November, Théâtre National de Chaillot, 1, place du Trocadéro, Paris 16th, theatre-chaillot.fr/en Present Tense by Trisha Brown, 2002. m j 22 AUCTION DESIGN: THE DREAM COLLECTION Imagine you suddenly fancied treating yourself to the twenty most iconic pieces of French, Italian and Scandinavian design. Artcurial has succeeded in bringing them together in a single catalogue – no easy feat! Furniture and lighting by designers such as Ron Arad, Finn Juhl, Charlotte Perriand, Jean Prouvé and Ettore Sottsass will be on display throughout the FIAC international contemporary art fair. Artcurial, auction to be held on 26 October, 7, Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées, 8th, www.artcurial.com Suspended bookcase by Charlotte Perriand, circa 1950. BOOK PANORAMA OF PARIS For more than 30 years, photographer Nicolas Guilbert has been enthusiastically wandering the streets of the French capital, capturing poetic, unusual or comical scenes. The clever layout of the 320 black-and-white and colour images creates delightful interplays between them. Paris Paradis, by Nicolas Guilbert, text by Antoine de Caunes and Cécile Guilbert, Flammarion. Tuileries Gardens, by photographer Nicolas Guilbert. MUSIC In 20 years, the Pitchfork website has become something of a bible in musical good taste. For indie artists, a mention on the site is the Holy Grail, and, for our hipster friends, knowing someone who’s got a mention on Pitchfork is a badge of honour. This event, held at the La Villette cultural centre, is a must-see, hosting established artists (Beach House and Deerhunter are headlining) as well as those who’ll soon be the talk of the town, including Ariel Pink, Rhye and Hudson Mohawke. Pitchfork Music Festival, 29-31 October, Grande Halle de la Villette, 211, avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19th, www.pitchforkmusicfestival.fr The singer Natalie Prass will be performing at the festival. m j NICOLAS GUILBERT – ALEXIS BERG HIPSTERS’ PARADISE 23 CONTEMPORARY ART IN PICASSO’S FOOTSTEPS The Spanish master continues to inspire artists to this day. This exhibition, which highlights the astonishing impact of his work on contemporary creative output. Picasso’s paintings are shown opposite those of David Hockney, Roy Lichtenstein, Jasper Johns, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Georg Baselitz, among others. The exhibition reveals how Pablo’s influence also extends to cartoons and videos. Picasso Mania, Grand Palais, 7 October–29 February, 3, avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Paris 8th, www.grandpalais.fr Harlequin by David Hockney, 1981. From left to right: dress by Sonia Rykiel, 2008; dress by Pierre Balmain, 1960; dress by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1930. BOOK 101 YEARS OF FASHION A chronicle of dresses by famous designers over the years, this book can be flicked through like a family album. The images are accompanied by a meditation on fashion and the passing of time by novelist Arthur Dreyfus. The graphics by Philippe Apeloig are absolutely stunning. 101 robes, by Arthur Dreyfus, Flammarion. SCULPTURE THE NEW MUSÉE RODIN The master’s sculptures have at last returned to their plinths at the Hôtel Biron, after a major three-year refurbishment programme. This is the first time that the Musée Rodin has been renovated since it opened in 1919; its wooden floors were literally collapsing under the weight of the works. The new layout reflects the artist’s creative process, bringing his original plaster casts to the fore. It also showcases Rodin’s personal collections, revealing the artist’s admiration for Van Gogh and Edvard Munch. Musée Rodin, from 12 November, 79, rue de Varenne, Paris 7th, www.musee-rodin.fr/en Ève, by Auguste Rodin, 1881. m j 24 CAPITAL TIPS THE AUTHOR OF A BESTSELLING GUIDE* TO PARISIENNE ATTITUDES LETS US INTO THE SECRET OF HER FAVOURITE HAUNTS. BY CAROLINE DE MAIGRET ILLUSTRATIONS ALEKSI CAVAILLEZ PASTEL BOUQUET DEBEAULIEU I barely know a third of the species on display, but I love the owner Pierre’s craftsmanship. He puts together each bouquet as if it were a work of art, in which each flower has its raison d’être. 30, rue Henri-Monnier, Paris 9th. WORLD VISION LE BAL This venue hosts incredible photography and video exhibitions that offer a trenchant perspective on today’s world. Every show here is an experience. What’s more, the lovely café offers a delicious menu of French and British specialities. 6, impasse de la Défense, Paris 18th. THE PERFECT WARDROBE VANESSA SEWARD I was always a fan of the capsule pieces Vanessa designed for APC, so you can imagine my excitement when I discovered she was starting her own label! At last the perfect wardrobe: chic, timeless, very Parisian and reasonably priced, with that certain something that sets you apart as a true woman of style. 10, rue d’Alger, Paris 1st. JAPANESE TAPAS ETHICAL TRAINERS ITO MIRACLE CURE Booking is a must at Ito. I like to order the tapas menu, leaving it to the chef to guide me through his daily specials. The food is inventive, fresh and delicious. My favourite dishes are the grilled chicken with yuzu, the mackerel in miso and the ramen. 24, rue Pierre-Fontaine, Paris 8th. I like to go on a four or five-day juice detox just before Fashion Week. My favourite here is Black Gold: a black juice containing activated carbon that acts like a sponge, absorbing toxins. 55, rue Charlot, Paris 3rd. WILD & THE MOON JUICES TWINS FOR PEACE I love sneakers! Twins for Peace has created simple, stylish trainers in various fabrics that add some flair to my outfits – I’m collecting them all. For each pair sold, this ethical brand offers one pair to a child in need. 5, rue Commines, Paris 4th. *How to be Parisian Wherever you Are (Doubleday) m j © SHERYO - HAAS & HAHN 26 INSPIRATION I was delighted to be in a city full of completely new colours, and I agree with Jean-Christophe Bailly who, in his book Dépaysement: Voyages en France (“Change of scenery: journeys in France”), evokes the colour of oysters to describe Paris. I met with people from all over the world. I was 19 years old; it was so exciting to be independant. I don’t want to sound nostalgic, but I really was in love with Paris. And adding to my joy, I would see lovers kissing everywhere in the street. I also have to mention the people that I met, especially the friends who adopted me. At the Beaux-Arts of Paris, we talked about everything and worked together. I really started doing what I wanted when I was in my third year at Jean-Luc Vilmouth’s studio. At the same time as working on my personal projects, I teamed up with other young artists. Soon I felt the need to present our art in a place that was dedicated to this experience, and I founded Paris Project Room in the Strasbourg Saint-Denis area, before it became gentrified. This independent venue was also the result of my meeting another artist, Simon Boudvin. Together we would struggle like all young artists to pay the rent. ILLUSTRATION ALEXANDRA COMPAIN-TISSIER Today, I want to work on French proverbs like Heureux comme un poisson dans l’eau (happy as a fish in water). I’m interested in tance between the tongue and the palate, the ambiguity in the image and the mesthe space in the mouth created when pro- sage – a sign that I’m not through with the nouncing Bonjour was something incredi- French language yet!” hough French was my third ble to me. More room in the mouth was language (after Korean and needed, it had to be rounder, more bloated, SEULGI LEE was born in 1972 in South English) when I studied fine it had to resound much more than the Korea. As an artist, she likes to play with the arts at Sun-Hwa in Seoul, I didn’t speak a sounds I had been taught. To pronounce idea of reality, to mock the mass market and word when I first arrived in Paris on 1 Feb- the French “r”, we would pretend to gar- the standardisation of goods. Her work is on ruary 1992. I knew the structure of the lan- gle, like when you brush your teeth. A Bon- show as part of Korea Now at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs of Paris from 19 September guage, but I never dared utter a Bonjour or a jouR and that’s it, we’d cleaned our teeth. 2015 until 3 January 2016, and at Lille 3000 Monsieur because the pronunciation was so Renaissance from 26 September 2015 until 17 different to what I had learned. The disJanuary 2016. SEULGI LEE THIS KOREAN ARTIST FELL IN LOVE WITH PARIS AT AN EARLY AGE. HER WORK COMBINES THE MARVELLOUS AND THE STRANGE IN A STYLE REMINISCENT OF JACQUES TATI’S FINEST FILMS. “T m j VESTA Bague en or blanc, diamants et nacre BOUTIQUE JOAILLERIE 20 RUE DE LA PAIX, PARIS 2 ÈME + 33 (0)1 42 65 03 04 lalique.com 28 INSPIRATION France has always been an inspiration for me. Its culture is part of who I am, and the perfect example of this was my Versailles exhibition in 2012. My work is so intertwined with French culture that it led me to doing a show that was very different from the others. The contrast between the Château de Versailles and my works was a way of addressing the paradox between the past and the present, which is one of the more obvious approaches, as well as women’s status in contemporary society, national identity, the antagonism between luxury and the banal, handmade and industrial objects, the private and the public sphere, pop culture and erudite culture. Although many of my works are made of common, everyday objects such as saucepans and plastic cutlery, these materials are put together in a way that turns them into luxury goods. They demonstrate that you can create luxury using simple materials, because luxury is all about doing things to high standards. This concept is what made my works fit so well in the sophisticated Versailles setting. My only regret in ILLUSTRATION ALEXANDRA COMPAIN-TISSIER this wonderful experience was that I couldn’t include the work A Noiva (the bride, 2001-2005), a luxurious chandelier later, in time for my father, who was a composed of 20,000 tampons, which was photojournalist, to shoot the first Interna- very important to me.” y relationship with France tional Workers’ Day – a holiday charged began even before I was with meaning, especially for those who JOANA VASCONCELOS was born in 1972. born. During the dictator- believed in freedom and human rights. Her sculptures and installations explore ship in Portugal, my parents sought politi- However, my relationship with France did women’s role in society. She’s currently cal exile in Paris, where I was born and not end there. We often travelled to Paris as showing her work at the Venice Biennale stayed until I was two-and-a-half years we still had family there, and I studied at (Giardino dell’ Eden) until 22 November 2015, and will unveil a new piece at the FIAC old. On 25 April 1974, the revolution finally the French school in Lisbon. as part of the exhibition Genre idéal put an end to the 41-year-long dictator(Ideal Gender), organised by Guerlain from ship. We returned to Portugal four days 16 October until 13 November 2015. JOANA VASCONCELOS BOTH SUBVERSIVE AND MONUMENTAL, HER WORK CAUSED A STIR WHEN IT WAS SHOWN AT THE CHÂTEAU DE VERSAILLES. THE PORTUGUESE ARTIST TALKS ABOUT HER INTIMATE RELATIONSHIP WITH FRANCE. “M m j 30 INSPIRATION Zazie on the Métro. Queneau’s eponymous novel proved to be a great introduction to French culture for the little girl that I was, in awe of art, who soon grew into a sassy Parisian kid. From my school years, I also remember Voltaire. After the failed 2011 revolution in Egypt, his words resonate with me more than ever: “Il faut cultiver son jardin” (one must cultivate one’s garden). For a whole century, my family has been displaced by wars and revolutions; like Candide, we have wandered the world. My whole family speaks French; it’s my mother tongue. I always admired my grandfather’s ability to simultaneously watch Egyptian TV while practising his tennis backhand with an old wooden racket and listening to English news on a small radio he held by his ear. To top it off, he would perform a Russian folk song, Ochi Chernye (Black Eyes), and tell me French jokes. My father, like other Lebanese peoILLUSTRATION ALEXANDRA COMPAIN-TISSIER ple of his generation who were born in Egypt, was brought up in this multicultural environment. But he always had a soft spot for French culture, especially literature. aving to hold my phone as While my eyesight diminishes and the text far away as possible from my eyes reminds me of a was my first experience of art. Inside the messages on my phone get blurrier, my story from my childhood. In 1975, when museum, monumental paintings adorned “black eyes” reflect a world of uncertainty. the war broke out in Lebanon, my father the walls. I contemplated Monet’s Water Lil- And yet deep inside me, the lush gardens of my childhood go on radiating light.” put the whole family on a plane. While we ies, speechless. I was 7 years old. hoped that the situation in Beirut would After the summer of 1975, the war continimprove by the time the school year ued in Lebanon, so we moved to Cairo and started, we spent the summer in France. then to Paris, where I passed my Baccalau- LARA BALADI is known for her mixedMy mother and I visited the Musée de reate. My nickname was Zazie. Paris in the media works that encompass architecture, installation, photography, collage, tapestry, l’Orangerie in the Jardin des Tuileries. It 60s was a mix of innocence, humour, and perfume and sculpture. During the 2011 sharp political criticism, which provided Egyptian revolution and its aftermath, she inspiration for my theatrical fantasy that is co-founded Tahrir Cinema and Radio Tahrir. LARA BALADI HER FAMILY HAS ROAMED THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF PEACE. THIS INTREPID EGYPTIAN-LEBANESE ARTIST NOW LIVES IN A POETIC UNIVERSE INHABITED BY THE LIKES OF VOLTAIRE, RAYMOND QUENEAU AND CLAUDE MONET. “H m j DISCOVER THE NEW HOTEL ROYAL TIMELESS, AT THE HEART OF A UNIQUE NATURAL SETTING HÔTEL ROYAL • HÔTEL ERMITAGE • GOLF CLUB • ACADEMY • SPA • KID'S WWW.EVIANRESORT.COM EVIAN - LAKE GENEVA 28 MILES FROM GENEVA Reservations: +33 (0)4 50 26 50 50 – [email protected] RESORT • THERMES • CASINO 32 TRENDS ARTY HITS Avant-garde impressions, hologram effects... Accessories add a touch of humour and a note of glamour to your silhouette. PHOTOGRAPHY THÉODORA RICHTER STYLING SABINE CARRANCE From top to bottom: Bag in Saffiano leather with a molecular print, Prada, €1,600. Multi-coloured printed smoke leather bag, Giorgio Armani, €1,680. Tiny 120 mm T-bar shoes in disco PVC and leather, Christian Louboutin, €650. m j great duty free time in our airports 1,000 brands at duty free prices from the 1st € spent, no tax refund procedure, no excess baggage, at Paris-Orly and Paris-Charles de Gaulle airports. airports.paris 34 TRENDS HEEL APPEAL Sophisticated and chic, high heels stand tall. Put a lift in your stride. PHOTOGRAPHY NICOLAS MENU STYLING SABINE CARRANCE From the top left: Stretch ankle boots in blue patent leather, on a heel made from metal and crystals, Dior, €1,400. Ankle boots in blue leather and white suede calfskin on Perspex heels, Fendi, €1,100. Golden alter leather pumps and taupe patent pumps, Stella McCartney, €925 each. Leather boots with large buckle, and ankle boots in stretch leather, Acne Studios, €900 and €750. Sandals in suede calfskin on a monolith heel, Pierre Hardy, €640. Low-cut boots in ostrich leather, Loewe, €2,500. Ostrich and leather sandals with sculpted heels, Salvatore Ferragamo, €2,200. m j DÉCOUVRIR, S’ÉMERVEILLER 10 RUE LABOTTIÈRE, 33000 BORDEAUX, FRANCE TEL : +33 (0) 5 35 38 16 16 E-MAIL : [email protected] 36 TRENDS THE PINK HOUR These pink gold diamond-studded timepieces sparkle with ultimate refinement and sensuality. PHOTOGRAPHY CLAUDE GODILLOT STYLING SABINE CARRANCE Clockwise from the top: Patrimony, diamond-set pink gold, Vacheron Constantin, €59,200. Tonda 1950, diamond-set pink gold, white mother-ofpearl dial, Parmigiani, €33,300. Royal Oak Quartz, diamond-set pink gold, Grande Tapisserie design on the dial, Audemars Piguet, €36,200. Altiplano, diamond-set pink gold, 38 mm, Piaget, €38,600. Clé, diamond-set pink gold, 35 mm, Cartier, €38,800. Lady Nautilus, diamond-set pink gold, Patek Philippe, €38,640. Scorpions, Deyrolle. m j Un jour à Paris ... P • H K • H 38 From left to right: Design, a heady gardenia, Mod Noir Eau de toilette, Marc Jacobs, €60 (Sephora). Symbolic, a Totem Jaune Eau de toilette, Kenzo, €40. Pumps, Charlotte Olympia. Graphic, a Palette Phyto4Ombres, Dream, Sisley, €65. Arty, an Extra Sculpt Mascara, Kiko, €9. Stylish, a Hydrating and Plumping Tinted Lip Balm, Kisskiss Roselip, Guerlain, €36. Earrings, Marni. BEAUTY QUEENS For a new autumn full of surprises, make the best move on the chessboard of allure and romantic elegance. BY MARION LOUIS PHOTOGRAPHY CHARLOTTE EVRARD STYLING LISA JOUVIN m j S K I N C A R E J U S T FO R Y O U The My Blend skincares rituals are a combination of performance and sensoriality - high-precision diagnosis, cutting-edge formulas, creation in real time of personalized blends, intuitive touch… EVERYTHING TO GIVE YOU A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE IN SPA. Our exclusive addresses in France: Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris Majestic Barrière, Cannes www.my-blend.com Hôtel de Paris, Saint-Tropez 40 TRENDS AROUND MIDNIGHT Five precious love potions that cast divine spells all around them. BY MARION LOUIS PHOTOGRAPHY BERNHARD WINKELMANN STYLING CÉCILE GUERRIER m j From left to right: an aphrodisiac fragrance based on rose and vanilla orchid notes, La Nuit Trésor, Lancôme, 78 €. A light restorative oil that fights off fatigue and pollution, Resilience Lift Restorative Radiance Oil, Estée Lauder, 77 €. A sexy musky rose fragrance that suggests powerful fantasies, L’Extase, Nina Ricci, 70 €. An enchanting, spicy Oriental fragrance with woody notes (for men and women), Santal Royal, Guerlain, 145 €. A deep-purple seductive smile, Dolce Matte Lipstick Dolce Inferno 333, Dolce & Gabbana, 35 €.. COMMUNIQUE In partnership with Cotton House Hotel, Autograph Collection GASTRONOMIC COCKTAILS IN BARCELONA’S SUN The Batuar, Cotton House bar and restaurant and its famous cocktail Gossypium. M argaritas, piña coladas and other timeless classics have been edged out by a new generation of elite bartenders. Within luxury hotels and prestige bars, they create unique cocktails that are much more than drinks, they embody an identity. In the Eixample neighborood, the Batuar, Cotton House Hotel bar and restaurant, offers an exceptional cocktail menu prepared by an expert team. Behind the bar, Jonathan and Hiomar, both winners of prestigious international awards, have imagined exquisite cocktails inspired by the rich history of the hotel. With the former headquarters of the Cotton Textile Foundation having settled in this emblematic 19th century neoclassical style building, the hotel shows stylish and refined glimpses of this lively past: delicate parquet and boiserie, stunning marble staircase, but most of all, pure and white cotton softness present in every detail of the natural and refined decoration. The Cotton House atmosphere is unique and personal, just as in every Marriott Autograph Collection hotel. Even the Batuar bar is named after the machine designed for pressing cotton and removing all its impurities. Its tailored recipes are influenced by this intense period of trade with the Caribbean Islands and South America, offering an aromatic trip to the Cotton House’s colonial past. Caribbean rums, Peruvian Pisco, passion fruits: all ingredients are selected with precision, and each cocktail decorated with art. “The hotel is a reference in terms of atmosphere and decoration: our cocktails must offer the same experience to our guests,” explains Juan Escarabajal, Batuar manager. With a gin & tonic base, the famous Gossypium cocktail, the Latin name for cotton flower, “THE HOTEL IS A REFERENCE IN TERMS OF ATMOSPHERE AND DECORATION: OUR COCKTAILS MUST OFFER THE SAME EXPERIENCE TO OUR GUESTS” requires two weeks of preparation to reveal all its aromas: Pisco, blue Curacao, gin, lime and spices create a unique turquoise flavour explosion. To complete the experience, the Batuar offers a selection of tapas and croquettes reinterpreted by the chef, such as the striking foie gras lollipop surrounded by cotton gauze. This can’t-miss culinary experience will be the highlight of your next trip to Barcelona! TRAVEL WITH PRIVILEGE Discover the Marriott Rewards loyalty program on MarriottRewards.co.uk to enjoy exclusive benefits in all Edition, JW Marriott, Autograph Collection Hotels, Renaissance Hotels, Marriott Hotels, AC Hotels, Courtyard, Residence Inn, Moxy Hotels and more. 16 hotel brands, with over 4,000 locations in more than 70 countries. More travel treasures to discover on lestresorsdevoyage.lefigaro.fr ! PRACTICAL INFORMATION: Cotton House Hotel ***** • Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 670 – 08010 Barcelone • www.hotelcottonhouse.com • 0034 93 450 50 45 42 ATTITUDES SO PARISIAN SO COOL THE PARISIENNE STILL LIVES UP TO HER LEGEND, AND EXPERT SKILLS ARE REQUIRED TO MASTER HER SENSE OF STYLE, RELAXED ELEGANCE AND ART DE VIVRE. HERE ARE 20 EASY-TO-FOLLOW TIPS TO EMBRACE THE LIFESTYLE ON HER HOME TURF. NEVER ADMIT TO GETTING A FULL NIGHT’S SLEEP Don’t accept compliments on how well you look. If someone dares to praise you, simply reply “Oh, I’ve only slept three hours in the past two days”. The idea is to suggest that the flush in your cheeks is the result of a night of passion. ANGLICISE YOUR FRENCH Her conversation is peppered with anglicisms and old-fashioned turns of phrase. The Parisienne has a “lover”, is a fan of “feel-good” films and texts “long time no see” to her friends. She also loves throwing “-ings” in everywhere (“nightswapping”, “regifting”, “jobbing”, etc.). She uses the more sophisticated souliers instead of chaussures for “shoes” and calls clothes habits (not vêtements). For her, everything is petit (little), whether it’s putting on a petit dinner (for 25 people) or giving a petit gift (regardless of whether or not the present is extravagant). BY VALÉRIE DE SAINT-PIERRE ILLUSTRATIONS JEAN ANDRÉ m j 43 ATTITUDES PARISIANISE YOUR ENVIRONMENT MASTER THE T-SHIRT TUCK GO FOR THE CALORIES Never eat quinoa in public, always saucisson and rillettes. It’s distasteful to come across as constantly watching what you eat (or worse, your weight). The best place to go? The new Terroir Parisien bistro on the Right Bank, headed up by Yannick Alléno. Terroir Parisien, 25, place de la Bourse, Paris 2nd, +33 1 83 92 20 30, www.yannick-alleno.com The Parisienne has some surprising skills, including the famous “T-shirt tuck”, worn loosely over the front of her jeans. Her secret? She tucks the hem into her trousers and lifts her arms for the perfect look – a small example of French genius. She’s also come up with an entire theory on how to roll up the sleeves of her white shirt. Take a little piece of Paname (Paris) with you when you leave the city, whether it’s slipping on a Belleville Hills T-shirt (www.no-oneparis.com), lighting a La Tournelle candle in your hotel room (www.astierdevillate.com) or spraying on some “Oud Vendôme” by perfumer Ex Nihilo (www.ex-nihilo-paris.com). PRETEND YOU’D RATHER BE ELSEWHERE The true Parisienne goes to the Paris Photo art fair, which takes place on 12-15 November at the Grand Palais, to tell everyone that she’s dying to visit the Lianzhou Photo Festival in China, but unfortunately won’t have the time. STAY HIGH ON CAFFEINE LEARN THE ART OF NONCHALANCE Don’t polish your shoes. The Parisienne prefers to buff them on the stairway carpet of her Haussmann apartment building. Above all, avoid giving the impression that you’ve made an effort to dress up or that you value your accessories, however expensive they may be. m French women drink a lot of coffee (according to Daily Telegraph journalist Celia Walden, this could be the secret of their slim figures) – with a cigarette of course. They don’t mind their bad reputation, as they like to be seen as rebels, although they have recently traded the traditional espresso in a café for beverages from coffee shops, most of which can be found around the Canal Saint-Martin or in South Pigalle. They’re never happier than when their coffee is grown in Ethiopia, roasted in Denmark and served by an Australian. j 44 ATTITUDES COLLECT NOTEBOOKS FOR LITERARY EFFECT The Parisienne still writes a lot, or at least she likes to collect pretty little notebooks, like those by Papier Tigre or La Compagnie du Kraft. She mainly uses them to write lists that she never ticks off. When she’s on a girls’ night out, “listing the exes” is also great fun. Papier Tigre, 5, rue des Filles-du-Calvaire, Paris 3rd, + 33 1 48 04 00 21, www.papiertigre.fr. La Compagnie du Kraft, 12, rue Jacob, Paris 6th, +33 1 46 34 38 48, www.lekraft.com DON’T LOOK IMPRESSED, EVER When invited to the Marcel Duchamp Prize gala dinner – a super chic fringe event of the FIAC – the Parisienne later recalls that, although artist Bertrand Lavier, who was sitting next to her, seemed really nice, the cabbage stuffed with lobster was nothing special. VANITY BE THY NAME! She secretly reads the bestsellers devoted to her and her way of life. From How to be Parisian Wherever You Are (Doubleday) to You’re so French! (La Martinière) and Parisian Chic (Flammarion), she’s really spoilt for choice. She pretends not to take them seriously but really revels in the attention – everything they say is so true! DRINK WINE ONLY The French are back into wine bars, an 80s concept that had been somewhat overshadowed by a whole host of Spanish and Basque competitors. We adore 116, a recent addition to the über stylish restaurant Pages, with its list of natural wines (no added sulphites, a prerequisite these days) and “produceoriented” dishes of only the highest quality, plus a hint of Japanese influence. 116 Pages, 2, rue Auguste-Vacquerie, Paris 16th, +33 1 47 20 74 94. FORGET ABOUT SUPERMARKETS CYCLE IN THE CITY The true Parisienne has her own personal take on the taxi vs Uber debate. She rides an electric bike (a blue Selve, www.o2feel.com) or a scooter if she’s in a hurry. Otherwise, she walks a lot – her only exercise, she claims. m j Parisians have just rediscovered the delights of delicatessens, shopping for regional produce from all over Europe in Causses or the brand-new Maison Plisson, both of which are also great places for gifts. However, their heart really lies with the Grande Épicerie at the Bon Marché department store. Causses, 55, rue de Lorette, Paris 9th. Maison Plisson, 93, boulevard Beaumarchais, Paris 3rd. Grande Épicerie du Bon Marché, 38, rue de Sèvres, Paris 7th. 45 BE A SKI DIVA The Parisienne claims that her skiing days are over, when in fact she’s already booked her chalet in Val-d’Isère – the one she’s been going back to for the past decade – for next year. The same goes for her favourite 22-room hotel in Oberlech, Austria. In short, she’ll only go Courchevel or Megève if she’s invited and, even then, she might make an excuse, pretending she’d rather go cross-country skiing in Akaslompolo, Finland (“so much more magical”). ATTITUDES BAN FRENCH MANICURES The idea of a French manicure only makes a Parisienne laugh. Why on earth would anyone give that name to something so un-French? After a summer of nude polishes on tanned hands, she’s keeping her nails natural, buffed and short. EAT IN ALL THE RIGHT PLACES She knows who to kiss on both cheeks, where and when – for instance Jean de Loisy, director of the Palais de Tokyo contemporary art centre, when she eats at Monsieur Bleu, the centre’s restaurant. 20, avenue de New-York, Paris 16th, +33 1 47 20 90 47, www.monsieurbleu.com HIRE A SECRET HELPER A Parisienne doesn’t need a personal shopper because she herself is the definition of style. However, she does have a few tricks up her sleeve to avoid fashion blunders, including a new service that allows her to try on designer shoes at home. She selects the pairs she wants to try from the website, and they are delivered within the hour. The service is free, whether she buys them or not. “Fantastique, don’t you think?” www.cabine.fr TREAT JEANS AS A DIPLOMATIC ISSUE She will get hold of a pair of Vanessa Seward jeans at all costs. Having worked for Azzaro and A.P.C., Vanessa is the embodiment of Parisian chic. The launch of her first collection is causing a real stir, and Les Parisiennes have been fighting it out since July to get their hands on the Holy Grail – a pair of high-waisted, flattering jeans, with the wearer’s first name embroidered in gold on the pocket. Vanessa Seward, 36, rue Madame, Paris 6th, +33 1 44 39 87 87, www.vanessaseward.com GO FOR A NON-SURGICAL FACELIFT She’s officially against cosmetic surgery but loves anything that can do the job temporarily. When the blur cream she would never admit to using fails her, she treats herself to a Japanese Kobido facial massage. This so-called “natural facelift” can be booked at the very chic Tigre Yoga Club, frequented by the likes of Carine Roitfeld. Tigre Yoga Club, 19, rue de Chaillot, Paris 16th, +33 9 84 54 17 34. m j 46 STORY NINE D’URSO MODERN HEROINE BY ARTHUR DREYFUS PHOTOGRAPHY ELLEN VON UNWERTH STYLING NICOLE PICART DIOR HAUTE COUTURE White silk chiffon dress with precious fishnet, and sandals. m j 48 STORY THIS FRESH AND UNIQUE BEAUTY IS INÈS DE LA FRESSANGE’S ELDEST DAUGHTER. FOR “MADAME FIGARO”, THE BRIGHT YOUNG STUDENT MODELLED FOR A SPECIAL PHOTO SESSION, WHERE SHE GLORIFIES THE BOLD COUTURE OF AUTUMN/WINTER 2015. VIRTUOSO NOVELIST ARTHUR DREYFUS REVEALS HER LIVELY AND CHARMING PERSONALITY. S he is quite a rare bird. Everyone has told me so. That complicates things: where do you arrange to meet a rare bird? I jump out of my sleep: in a zoo! So this is where Nine d’Urso appears, a stone’s throw from the former Musée des Colonies, now changed into The Cité Nationale de l’Histoire de l'Immigration. I say “appears”, I could have said “lands”; Nine appears light as a feather, it seems that the sky has gently brought her down here, endowed with a little more than strictly necessary: beauty, freshness, individuality, and, more important, a look. “I know this zoo!” Nine recalls: a year ago she came here to have fun with a friend from school, disheartened by not getting into the École Normale Supérieure, an elite higher education institution. One shall never be disheartened: Nine tells me that, this year, she has just passed the most difficult entrance exam in France, to study drama there: “I’m happy!” Because drama (with philosophy, and a few other little details) is her passion. In two months, this young woman will move to Lyon, where she knows no-one except for a nun: Sister Sybille, aka Sister Syb’, whom she met during a hike in Provence. With or without God’s help, that’s where Nine’s new life will begin, where she will make her directorial début with The Maids, Jean Genet’s famous play. Where, finally, she will live by herself for the first time. Beforehand, to learn how to shop, Nine will involve her beloved nanny Zora: “Without her, I think I’d only buy Snickers bars and wine!” The student smiles. Her impatience is tinged with a dash of worry. It’s time to enter the liveliness of the zoo. “Hello penguins! I love penguins!” exclaims our heroine, who is hardly used to being one: “It scares me to talk about my life.” When it comes down to it, what she prefers is telling slightly romanticized anecdotes – or even totally fictional ones. We have been warned. Nevertheless, let’s start with this slice of truth: “During my preparatory classes, I asked my booking agent to refuse every proposal without telling me about it. I was focusing on my work and sleep patterns. Okay, but in the future, along with teaching, research and GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ Feather jacket, velvet trousers with Lurex and silk, and velvet belt. Bibi, Anne-Sophie Coulot. Earring, Hélène Zubeldia. m j 50 FRANCK SORBIER HAUTE COUTURE Cape in organza and silk panels tied together with cotton threads and raffia. Ballet shoes, Francesco Russo. Embalmed animal, Deyrolle. m j CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE Dress and jacket in blue silk. Glasses, Ulyana Sergeenko. Sandals, Giuseppe Zanotti Design. 52 ATELIER VERSACE Tiered Georgette crêpe ensemble and frayed silk chiffon. Sandals, Stuart Weitzman. 53 GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE Dungaree shorts in overstitched grain-de-poudre, black stretch cady top, jewels and thigh boots. 54 STORY “FOR ME, BEAUTY IS AN ATTITUDE” directing, will Inès de La Fressange’s eldest daughter try modelling? As we draw closer to the rhinoceroses – “Crazy, they look like such prehistoric animals!” – Nine is anxious to clarify things: “I did it for Madame Figaro because I adore Nicole Picart, who I’ve known since I was a child. After that I’m not sure but – there’s a but – I don’t want to appear snooty either, by saying I’m not interested.” Her only (and very pretty) campaign (in 2011, for a Bottega Veneta fragrance) allowed her to stash a little bit on the side for the future, and prepare for freedom. So, to sum up: maybe. Or: we’ll see. On the other hand, when you ask the girl if she’s aware that her mother was the most expensive super-model of her time, Nine becomes somber: “I don’t like talking about money.” Just at the right moment, a wolverine catches our attention. This type of North-American shortlegged bear, also known as a glutton, is “a predator and a scavenger, and a champion at adaptation”. Even frozen bones are no match for its powerful jaw. A much less pleasant species, we agree, than the flamingoes that are dancing in front of us – or the make-up artist for the Madame photo shoot! Indeed – you can’t make this stuff up – the make-up artist was a big fan of pink flamingoes. The telepathy was successful: “For the photo, I’m wearing a fluorescent pink jacket embellished with feathers, while tottering about on humongous heels: totally flamingo!” We can only agree. In front of the llama enclosure, a kid shouts out: “Look at the lovely pumas!” Nine bursts into laughter. Does she also laugh with her sisters? “A lot.” How many does she have? “Three.” Which ones are the real ones? “If you start viewing sisters and half-sisters differently, you’ll never get anywhere.” So she loves them all the same, big sisters India and Clothilde, from her Italian father Luigi’s first marriage, and Violette, Inès’ younger daughter. Any dis- tinguishing features? Violette is “close as can be with Karlito” – read: Karl Lagerfeld. “They’re mad about each other and give each other big hugs.” Why? “Because Violette is the only person who isn’t scared of him.” What about Nine and Karlito? They know each other, say hello to one another, but they don’t have a special relationship. At this point we reach the baby giraffe enclosure – “completely adorable” – where the parents smooch four metres in the air. Nine remains focused on their offspring: “My sister Violette looked a bit like that when she was little.” She reflects: “She still does today!” End of reflection. This is not the moment to dawdle: in ten minutes, the lioness Savana will “present her lion cubs”. INTELLIGENCE AND HUMOUR Reckless as anything, the blond balls of fur are there: on this topic, Nine, do you think one day you might do like Savana and have... some cubs? The young woman obviously “has been thinking about it a bit” since she’s “surrounded by friends and sisters who have babies”. But good sense prevails: “I’ve been told I need to find a father first.” So, has she found one? Nine jumps: “I’ve still got time, I’m not desperate like Cousin Bette yet!” Indeed, it’s impossible to establish the slightest relationship between the long simian face of Balzac’s protagonist, and the inherent gracefulness of Nine d’Urso. Gracefulness that she easily concedes to the monkeys, particularly the white-faced sakis – but what does she like in a man? Quick response: “Is there really any difference between men and monkeys?” Serious response:“ Intelligence and humour. I don’t place that much importance on what people call beauty, which for me is an attitude. I often find someone beautiful through talking to him m j or her for five minutes.” Him or her? Nine’s generation does not care for labels. Because essentially, a “life companion” can be “a woman or a man”. For the time being, Nine is completely in love with her veterinarian. Doctor Cappé is “an extraordinary man who wrote his thesis on La Fontaine’s Fables and won an award for it”. What’s even more remarkable about the man is that he’s taking care of Aliochas, the family’s poor old golden retriever, during his remaining days. It was unimaginable for his young mistress to leave Paris when her dog was suffering. The spectre of death unfortunately is not new for Nine. At the age of 12, she lost her father, with his heavy Italian accent. Is it still fresh in her mind? The girl’s eyes become hazy as she’s looking at the majestic rock of Vincennes: “It tore everything apart for me, it even tears time apart a little bit. It feels like yesterday.” Now Luigi d’Urso watches over her: “At the Italian oral exams at the École Normale Supérieure, I thought a lot about Papa – but he let me down! I was expecting an art critique, and I ended up with the political career of Berlusconi!”We think we know that the oral went well: up there, Luigi has been forgiven. And what of him down here? For a child, the loss of a parent is accompanied by the loss of a family: “We weren’t happy all the time, but we were solid, and we loved each other.” What do you do then, when that solidity is no longer there? All you can do is hope. Hope that a family pulls itself together, through happiness, like when Inès met media entrepreneur Denis Olivennes – or the other way around. It doesn’t matter: it’s love that we hold on to. It wasn’t easy for Nine – despite the love – to see her mother in the arms of another man: “At the beginning, I made his life a misery . I was trying to drive him out of our little apartment. For example, I kept setting the table for three every evening, GIAMBATTISTA VALLI HAUTE COUTURE Evening gown in organza embroidered with beaded and sequined flowers, and glasses. VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE Gladiator dress in crystallised and embroidered black silk, and Roman sandals. m j GAULTIER PARIS Apron-dress in velvet and black leather, white jersey leotard with sailor-striped sleeves and cap. BOUCHRA JARRAR Criss-crossed harness waistcoat in woven stitch and silk trousers. Ballet shoes, Roger Vivier. 59 VIKTOR & ROLF HAUTE COUTURE Chambray smock and skirt with canvasses and wood frames. Ballet shoes, Roger Vivier. m j 60 STORY when there were in fact four of us.” A little remorseful? “I don’t regret being so nasty, because at the end of the day, I worked my adolescent crisis off on Denis.” Has she made peace now? For sure: “Now I’ve understood that Denis is a kind, intelligent, sincere man who loves my mother. He’s someone who is fundamentally good – and the house that we all live in reflects the strength that he brought to it.” In that famous house (close to the place Monge), there are multiple forces. One of them is nowhere near extinction: it’s the symbiotic relationship that unites Inès with her daughters. “I’ve always got on very well with Maman”, the eldest confides to me. During wanderings, to find out how everything’s going, Maman sends several text-messages to “Stakaping”. That’s Nine’s nickname of the moment, but it changes all the time. “Yesterday it was Pikinette, we’ve also had Katibouchinfint’chiku, and once she even tried Pissedemouche [fly pee]. At that point, I said: ‘Maman, you’re going too far!’” Other than her inventiveness in finding nicknames, what is the quality your Maman has? The girl doesn’t have to think for even a second: it’s her simplicity. For example? “Well, Maman never shows us articles that mention her. I think that’s great. She’s always tried to get us to open our eyes to the real world. I love my mother for her personality; not because she is ‘a personality’.” The confession is sincere, touching – even until this delicious moment of candour: “I admire her as a mother and as an individual, in an extremely objective way I think!” Anything else to declare? Yes: “Even though she feels it’s a pain in the neck, Maman is also a good cook; a tartes expert.” You could almost forget that Maman happens to be Inès de La Fressange... In fact, does Nine know the path that her life took? Let’s start with the easiest part: is your Maman beautiful? Another immediate answer: “Magnificent. Increasingly beautiful, in my opinion. I really like people as they grow older.” A little pause. “I don’t know if she’ll like the way I’ve said that, but that’s what I think.” And Inès’ career? Nine frowns: “I’ve never looked at her Wikipedia page, except once, to see if I was on it.” False modesty? Genuine compartmentalising? The young lady is not as ignorant as she makes out: “I know that Maman modelled for Kenzo, became a muse for Chanel at some point, created her own brand, and was dispossessed. Then she worked with Roger Vivier, spent time at Schiaparelli but it didn’t work out, before retrieving her name and finally recreating Inès de La Fressange Paris.” LITERARY ECSTASY It seems that the lesson on the “real world” has borne some fruit. Nine swears that she is not blinded by celebrity. She knows that stupid celebrities exist alongside intelligent celebrities, and as it happens, she prefers to mix with earthly tapirs: “They’re so bizarre, I think they’re great!” That said, having thought about it, our drama student is nonetheless a “big fan” of someone – comedian Micha Lescot. She recalls a play by Pinter where he came on stage “looking disgusting, with false teeth, and suddenly he started scuttling about like a big spider and became a very charming man”. Nine is assertive: “This guy’s a genius.” Why not let him know? “I sent a letter to the Théâtre de l’Odéon, but I don’t think it got passed on.” What did the letter say? “It’s a bit private”, she shoots back, but alright: Le Maki Mococo. Sorry, what? “The poem by Jacques Roubaud.” Of course. “Le Maki Mococo Son kimono a mis Pour un goûter d’amis : Macaque et Okapi L’Macaque vient d’Macao L’Okapi d’Bamako.” Coincidental or not, at the moment of this admission, we walk past the manatee enclosure, ever so gentle and doleful. Nine jumps: “Le Lamantin Austral [lamantins are manatee]! Another Roubaud poem!” Poetry is vital, that’s not up for discussion m j – but apart from verse, what are Nine’s artistic tastes? There is recollection of Arturo’s Island by Elsa Morante, read across from Naples, on the Island of Procida – the setting of this superb novel. There is Journey to the End of the Night by Louis-Ferdinand Céline, read when she was 14 and re-read recently. She specifies: “I didn’t know who the author was the first time. Knowing more about the person came after literary ecstasy.” Before adding: “Some novels are read too early.” In another field, there is also adoration of French singers Mistinguett and Reggiani. Songs such as Il suffirait de presque rien, and Votre fille a vingt ans: “Maman was listening to it in her room on my 20th birthday.” Finally, the last film she enjoyed, Roman Holiday: “I saw it with my philosophy teacher, a Platonist.” Why that film? “To drool over Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn for an hour and a half.” Why that teacher? “Because my buddy Guillaume and I are totally in love with her, we admire her enormously, so much so that we want to adopt a cat and name it after her.” A worthy tribute to the wisdom of cats. The last art, but by no means the least, politics: “I’m firmly on the left, even if I’m aware of certain utopias.” In short: “I’m an idealist.” We would happily spend the rest of our lives with such pleasant idealists, but the zoo is getting ready to close, and Nine must get back to watch over Aliochas. Over a pomegranate cordial, I manage to ask her one last question: if there is one thing her father has taught her, what is it? Immediate reply: “To shake hands. It has to be sincere, candid, direct. The grip is very revealing.” A shiver runs down my spine: I think of my introductory handshake. In the blink of an eye, the sun disappears behind a bluish cumulus cloud. I study the young person sitting opposite me; this Nine who has charm in her genes,who gives off both intense vibrancy, and a palpable aloofness. She seems in suspension. What can she see from there up on her cloud? I decide not to think about it too much, while reflecting on a little injustice: the tapirs, giraffes, oryxes and parrots that we’ve seen haven’t had to pay for an entrance ticket to see Nine d’Urso. FENDI HIGH FUR Mink marquetry and Perspex dress, flower brooch in sheared mink. Hair, Hélène Bidard. Manucure, Kamel. All photos shot in the lycée Henri-IV., Paris 5th. Coat Erdem. Single clip emerald, diamond and brilliant earrings, Chopard. BY RICHARD GIANORIO. PHOTOGRAPHY MATHIEU CESAR STYLING DELPHINE PERROY 64 ICON SHE WAS THE FIRST ACTRESS TO WIN THE PALME D’OR AT THE CANNES FILM FESTIVAL. THIS SEASON, SHE IS THE NEW JAMES BOND GIRL AND ALSO STARS IN “THE LOBSTER”, A QUIRKY SCI-FI FILM. SENSUAL AND ELUSIVE, LÉA SEYDOUX IS THE EMBODIMENT OF FRENCH EXCELLENCE. S he shows up right on time at the Parisian bistro on the rue des Petites-Ecuries, in the trendy 10th arrondissement, where she’s a regular. Léa Seydoux greets everyone, and everyone greets her back without so much as batting an eyelid over her being here. Most of us picture her living in a chic neighbourhood like Saint-Germaindes-Prés, where she grew up, but she actually lives in this area, though she’s about to move to the more residential 14th arrondissement. With her hair pulled back, no makeup, and her rucksack (Prada, no doubt), she looks like a schoolgirl. Léa confirms that no one ever recognises her when she walks around Paris. In just a few years, she has moved ahead of the pack. She’s a frontrunner in her category, an unprecedented sensuous and melancholic hybrid, something like Scarlett Johansson’s French cousin. An actress that Woody Allen – who directed her in Midnight in Paris – cites as an example. She snaps up all the best roles with both independant directors (Benoît Jacquot, Rebecca Zlotowski, and soon Xavier Dolan) and international productions such as Sam Mendes’ Spectre, the new James Bond, a kind of introductory holygrail for non-Anglo-Saxon actresses. Her character is called Madeleine Swann (a nod at Proust), and she is something of a good m girl. On the set – which she describes as “awesome” – Mr 007 Daniel Craig tells her jokes that keep her amused. The 30-yearold was the only actress (along with Adèle Exarchopoulos) to be awarded a Palme d’Or at Cannes, when the prestigious prize is traditionally awarded to films only: “I have no university degree, but I’ve got a Palme d’Or,” she laughs. The award was for Abdellatif Kechiche’s Blue Is the Warmest Colour, which caused an uproar further fuelled by Léa disclosing the conditions that the director subjected his actresses to, creating huge controversy. This year, she was back in the official Cannes selection with a film that is rumoured to be quite disturbing: The Lobster, by Yorgos Lanthimos, a science-fiction tale in which human beings turn into animals, also starring Colin Farrell, Rachel Weisz, John C. Reilly and Ben Whishaw. Léa Seydoux talks a lot, laughs and drinks coffee. She’s still not sure of anything, but is learning to get to know herself, to focus on the present, and make-do with it. Reality escapes her. It’s because of these small hesitations that she’s so hard to figure out in real life and that she appears so enigmatic on screen, making her, in other words, utterly irresistible. j Sequin-embroidered bodysuit and tulle petticoat, Valentino. Single clip earrings in pear-cut Paraíba tourmaline gems and diamonds, Chopard. Cotton dress and studded leather belt, Azzedine Alaïa. Diamond clip earrings and a unique Marquise-cut diamond and brilliant necklace, Chopard. 68 MADAME FIGARO Can we consider the controversy that surrounded the release of Blue Is the Warmest Colour to be over? LÉA SEYDOUX Yes. Being awarded the Palme d’Or remains a unique moment. As for the rest, I take responsibility for my words and actions. Kechiche and I haven’t seen each other since, and I don’t think he will ever work with me again (she laughs). A lot of water’s gone under the bridge, we’ve changed. The life of an actress is full of unforeseen events. I learn more with each film, but there’s something that remains unchanged: I’m still very shy, and my heart beats faster in front of the camera. I still get nervous. I don’t know whether I’m a good actress or not, but I know that I’m an actress, an actress who really gets involved and does the job. Acting is similar to vertigo, an abyss, a leap into the void. I think Olivier Py said that it was like having an appointment with death. There is some truth in that. There is a certain intensity to your acting, and yet everyone mentions your elusive nature. I’m not sure of anything, it’s the story of my life. It probably has to do with my education. I don’t want to get into psychoanalysis, but for me it’s all or nothing, that’s how I’ve shaped my personality. On a film set, I like it when there are rules, probably because there were so few at home. Gradually, film offers started to roll in. It happened little by little, but I, too, discovered myself little by little. It wasn’t easy at first. What kind of an actress are you today? Every actress has her own way of acting. I’m happy with myself when I’m real. If I don’t enjoy it, if I start focusing on myself, then acting becomes a terrible ordeal. I think I adapt easily; I always perform for someone or according to a certain environment. And I never worry about the way I look, the camera takes whatever it wants from me. We’re not in the ’80s anymore, when actresses had to be flawless. I’m a person of the here and now. Your acting seems very natural, and yet, you’ve become a star of the red carpet. We need that too. I enjoy playing Léa Seydoux (she laughs). In real life, I’m quite the opposite – I’m shy and not very confident. Paradoxically enough, the more confident I am on the red carpets, the more I want to disappear in real life. In everyday life, I enjoy simple things, and I’m very loyal to people. You are shy, but there’s something very bold about you, even a bit masculine. I’m daring in the way some shy people are. And I’m learning how to refocus. I started therapy when I was 14 years old, then I stopped, and now I see a behavioural therapist. It’s something totally different. It’s just pragmatic; we’re dealing with symptoms, not causes. She teaches me how to address my anxiety and especially how to keep my feet on the ground. Staying focused on the present is a real effort. Is seduction important to you? I don’t want to please regardless. I think more along the lines of whoever likes me will see me for who I really am. I don’t depend m “MY HEART BEATS FASTER IN FRONT OF THE CAMERA” on other people’s desires. I get that from my mother, who is my female role model. She’s very beautiful, but she’s free, does what she wants and wears whatever she likes. What do you think of your appearance? I like myself (she laughs). I see myself as rather pretty, even though I know I can be the opposite and, truth be told, I don’t really care. There are lots of actresses whom people find divine and whom I don’t like. I like unconventional beauty, girls who are a little different such as Marion Cotillard, Eva Green, or Carey Mulligan with her unusual face. You are a secretive person, yet you revealed to a French weekly magazine that you are in love. Yes, I said that I’d met someone nice, that I was happy, and it became the main headline. I expected it. I’m building something, I want a family. And I think actresses succeed quite well at this today – none of us want life to be about destruction. Isabelle Adjani’s extreme passions are very admirable, but that would no longer be possible today. Is there a Léa Seydoux mystery? The real mystery is perhaps that there isn’t any. You know, I never lie. Maybe people find me mysterious because I’m different. Strangely enough, cinema has given me a reality. Did cinema save you in a way? When I was little, I went to a school that was run by nuns, where I’d hear, “God is our Saviour”. I could’t understand that. Our saviour from what? Now I understand that some people might want to be saved, no matter who does it. I wouldn’t say that cinema saved me, but one thing I’m sure about is that I need it, that I love it and that it gave meaning to my life. I perform in films because I want people to be moved. LÉA’S FRENCH INSPIRATION “When you travel around the world, you eventually understand why French women – Parisians especially – are idolised so much. They are the chicest, they have style, there’s no doubt about it. While American women can seem very sophisticated – they take care of their skin and hair, they’re slim, muscular, super bright – it’s usually all fake. That’s the reason French women are so envied: they have natural beauty. We have had enough of fake breasts, false teeth, hair extensions and Botox. We want to live, don’t we? French women are alive. They’re organic!” j Feather coat, Erdem. Single Paraíba tourmaline gem and diamond clip earrings, Chopard. Makeup: Sandrine Cano for La Roche-Posay. Hydréane soft water day cream, Tolériane Teint Matifying Mousse, Light Beige 02, Tolériane Teint Golden Pink Blush, Respectissime Ombre Douce, Smoky Grey, Respectissime Intense black eyeliner, Respectissime Douceur Noir eyeliner pencil, Respectissime black High Tolerance Densifying mascara, Novalip Duo, Rose Peach 05. Haircut by Fred. Nails: Philippe Ovala. 70 PORTRAIT BENJAMIN MILLEPIED FREE VARIATIONS BY ELISABETH QUIN PHOTOGRAPHY JEAN-BAPTISTE MONDINO STYLING NICOLE PICART m j ALLEGRO Trench-coat, Lanvin; jeans, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane; Feith trainers. On the left page: shirt, Lanvin. 72 THERE’S A REVOLUTION GOING ON AT THE PARIS OPÉRA. SINCE BENJAMIN MILLEPIED TOOK OVER AS DIRECTOR OF THE PARIS OPÉRA BALLET A YEAR AGO, THE PRESTIGIOUS INSTITUTION HAS BEEN GIVEN A NEW LEASE OF LIFE. THE NEW YORK CITY BALLET STAR AND CHOREOGRAPHER TALKS ABOUT HIS FRENCH DREAM. AN INTERVIEW WITH A QUIETLY IMPATIENT LEAD DANCER. S ince his appointment as director-choreographer of the Paris Opéra Ballet in 2014, Benjamin Millepied has brought a mix of American glamour and Louis XIV magnificence to the time-honoured institution. It was the Sun King who founded the Royal Dance Academy in 1661 to codify the art of choreography. Star dancer at the New York City Ballet, where he was nicknamed “Le nuage en pantalon” because of his roles in Balanchine ballets, Millepied was also the protégé of Jerome Robbins and Mikhail Baryshnikov. He is also actress Natalie Portman’s husband. The two met on the set of Black Swan, for which he choreographed the ballet sequences. While he has lived out the slogan “Go west, young man”, today he’s back and happy in his tiny dressing room at the Opéra Garnier, where he wants to bring about dazzling change. He fascinates the tabloid press, intrigues the public, and even has a few enemies: 2015 is definitely his year. MILLIPEDE “Even without being Lacanian, how could I not take my name Millepied, meaning ‘millipede’ in French, as a pre-determined clue to the rest of my career? It’s made several people smile. In fact, my father ran the decathlon and my mother taught dance. In our family, it’s all about the feet. And, I hope, a little about the head too.” m j RETURN TO FRANCE “I lived in France up until I was 16, and then I spent most of my life in the United States. Back here, I had to readapt, it was fascinating. I found my roots again; time had caught up with me. At heart I am French, I can even go as far as saying that I’m Bordelais (from Bordeaux). In the United States, I was French, marked by this very European relationship to history and culture. This made me different from the other dancers, classmates who didn’t know anything about the history of dance for instance. Since I’ve been back, I have revelled in the natural, obvious relationship we have to culture here. That’s definitely something that hits you hard when you come back from the United States.” LEADING ROLE Trench-coat and shirt, Lanvin. STORMING THE BASTILLE Benjamin Millepied, right, wears a shirt and black trousers, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, and Feith trainers. With 14 dancers of the Ballet de l’Opéra, wearing Acne, Levi’s, Majestic, Cos, Calvin Klein, Diesel, Marc Jacobs, Uniqlo, G-Star, Asos, Kaporal. 76 PORTRAIT AFRICA “I spent my early childhood in Dakar. I think that my way of dancing throughout my career at the New York City Ballet was inspired by the freedom and complex rhythms I grew up with as a child. At the age of 4 or 5, I had a very spontaneous relationship to dance and gymnastics. I would get up and, brimming with joy, start to dance barefoot. It was unforgettable.” other institution can decide on a dance company’s future in a split second. I can’t decide to scrap it on my own, but I want to make it evolve.” BRIGITTE LEFÈVRE* “She’s done a remarkable job, she’s realised projects that are unique, and with an incredibly open mind. Her work has inspired me and will continue to do so here. I regret the press exploiting and fuelling the controversy surrounding my nomination. I’m neither Laurent Hilaire HIS ROLE nor Manuel Legris. She would have preAS BALLET DIRECTOR “I have to convey my vision of dance at the ferred one of the two dancers to take her Ballet; it’s simple to formulate and crucial place, but they chose someone else and it’s to put in place. A classical ballet company now up to me to show what I can do. We’ve has certain needs, including a clear vision both suffered through this year-and-aof what it is to dance on stage, of style. If I half-transition. Thankfully it’s all in the was not practicing with the dancers every past now. Brigitte and I have followed two day, I would only be a programmer, and I very different paths; I was a dancer at a ballet company in the United States for just don’t see myself like that.” 20 years, with a Russian choreographer, and she stopped dancing, didn’t want to be A SUCCESSFUL BALLET “It’s all about rhythm. The ballets of Bal- a top dancer at all. But Brigitte is part of the anchine, Forsythe, Jerome Robbins, are Opéra’s history, that’s just the way it is.” first and foremost all about rhythm. I would like us to go even further in the cho- “THE RED SHOES” BY reographic learning process. There is no MICHAEL POWELL (1948) dance school in France, for instance, even “It’s probably the greatest film about if there are workshops and various other dance, and one of the most beautiful on educational organisations. I want to go fur- artistic creation. Since I’ve been back in ther into education, into facilitating, and Paris, despite a tight schedule between the into the study of the technical and artistic Opéra and my family life (he glances at the history of ballet.” drawing hanging on the wall of his office by his son, Aleph), I go to the cinema and I read essays on the history of Paris, urbanTHE BODY “I’m 38 years old but my body’s given a lot. ism, architecture. At the moment, I’m Dancing is no longer top of my list, my pas- starting The 48 Laws of Power by Robert sion is dead. But I take care of myself, and Greene. I’m learning.” I’ve started thinking about how to help dancers to look after their health and body THE PARIS OPÉRA BALLET better. It encompasses what they eat, at “It’s the company with the greatest potenwhat time, how they take care of their tial in the world, even if I don’t like soundmuscles and joints. When I first arrived, I ing competitive. I want to maximise that. I got all the floors changed. It may seem have a lot of hope in the winners of the 2014 silly, but the way the floor absorbs the competition (Ms Baulac, Ms O’Neill, Ms dancers’ weight is crucial for their bodies. Hecquet, Ms Viikinkoski, Ms Visocchi and Every single detail matters.” Mr Marchand, Mr Louvet, Mr Kirscher and Mr Melac). These young dancers are so brave, work like mad for five weeks and play out their future in five minutes. The competition is strange and cruel, but no m j YOUTHFUL TAKE-OVER “I would not have been ready for the job before: I needed 10 years’ experience in production, film and performance. Now I feel young and mature at once. There’s a new generation in France. Old 30-yearolds (laughs) like Mathieu Gallet at Radio France or Emmanuel Macron at the Ministry of Finance have legitimacy. We used to hear that France was wary of youth, but it’s changing, and that’s encouraging.” AMBITION “I have great ambitions in mind for the Paris Opéra. I’m impatient but I have to curb my enthousiasm and listen to what is said to me – the prestigious institution comprises no less than 1,600 people. The American press focused a little simplistically on the way I favoured fundraising, my calling upon generous patrons, saying it was my thing. But the fact is, the financial crisis has made funding culture more difficult. Public funds are diminishing, and the French must evolve and be aware that there are sources of income other than the government or ticket sales. In the US, culture is funded by the private sector. My challenge is to develop the Paris Opéra’s image worldwide to generate revenue. I want to intelligently commercialise the Opéra brand, as the Louvre did with its own brand. We’re also far from having explored all the digital options. We have to create a more modern digital presence, and there’s a lot of work to be done. Then we’ll have new fund-raising opportunities. The lack of entrepreneurship in France is a problem. In the 19 th century, a former Opéra director made a fortune in pharmaceuticals, and his business sense made him install boxes in the Opéra Garnier auditorium. That was a great idea! Selling seats is no longer enough.” *Former director of dance at the Paris Opéra. A BLUE NOTE Jacket and shirt, Hermès; jeans, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. Grooming Louise Garnier. ALONE ON STAGE T-shirt, Majestic; jeans, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane; Feith trainers. For Benjamin Millepied, this season at the Opéra de Paris opens with two ballets – 20 danseurs pour le XXe siècle, by Boris Charmatz, and Jerome Robbins, Benjamin Millepied, George Balanchine, including a new piece by Millepied – both until 11 October. www.operadeparis.fr/en 80 STYLE GURUS INTERVIEWS AND PHOTOGRAPHS CAROLINE DE MAIGRET 81 PORTFOLIO THEIR LOOK IS THEIR SIGNATURE, A WAY OF MAKING THEMSELVES INSTANTLY RECOGNISABLE. OVER TIME, IT HAS BECOME PART OF THEIR IDENTITY. CAROLINE DE MAIGRET, THE IDEAL PARISIENNE, FASHION EXPERT, MODEL, MUSIC PRODUCER AND BEST-SELLING AUTHOR, INTRODUCES HER TOP FIVE FASHION ICONS. CARINE ROITFELD “DRESS ACCORDING TO YOUR ASSETS” What is the history of your sartorial revolutions? In the ’70s, I went through a period of wearing star-studded shorts, wedge heels, little lace shirts and a bob hat. But I quickly took on the style I have today, as I soon figured out what suited me best. The only thing that has changed in 30 years is the length of my hair! How did you create your present style? It’s essential to know yourself and dress according to your assets. I don’t have a generous cleavage, but I do have nice legs and ankles, so I wear skirts. I don’t have a beautiful mouth, so I apply make-up to my eyes and don’t wear lipstick. I’m slim, so I need to wear more fitted garments. I love large coats, but they’re not for me – I would just look lost in them. In the end, my style comes down to a skirt closely fitting my slim waist, seamed stockings, high heels, and a sweater. m j 82 ALEXA CHUNG “MY LOOK IS NOT SUBVERSIVE” What is the history of your sartorial revolutions? At school, I had to wear a uniform, but did everything I could to look different, thanks to small details and accessories. That continued later on, as I never wanted to wear the uniform of a particular tribe. When I launched my talk show on MTV, I was intimidated by the idea of interviewing incredible people, so I tried to look stronger by adopting a rather masculine wardrobe. I thought strength had to do with masculinity, which is ridiculous. How did you create your present style? I don’t see my preppy look as something subversive. This is how we dress in the village where I grew up in England. Look at Karl Lagerfeld or Isabel Marant: you can tell a lot about their personality by the way they dress. It’s difficult to get out of a strong signature look, which has been carefully studied to highlight qualities and hide flaws by playing with volumes. For instance, I have small shoulders, so I wear tight tops, and I have skinny legs, so it’s better for me to wear flat shoes. m j 83 KARL LAGERFELD “DIFFERENT, FULL STOP” What is the history of you sartorial revolutions? As a child, I was dressed like a Tyrolean. Then I experimented in all style periods. At the time when ready-to-wear items were awful, I would dress in Cifonelli or Caraceni (two of Italy’s great families of tailors). When I put on weight, I wore Japanese garments. And for many years now I’ve been wearing Dior Homme. How did you create your present style? I’ve never thought about it. I don’t go out to do any self-marketing, it just happened by itself. All of a sudden, I just felt like dressing in a certain way. So I’ve never asked myself how I could dress to look different. I am different, full stop. m j 84 HAIDER ACKERMANN “CHANGING MY STYLE WOULD BE LIKE CHANGING MY SOUL” What is the history of your sartorial revolutions? I was the wild stranger lost in a city somewhere in the Netherlands. As I spent my childhood in Africa, my manners and the way I spoke were quite different, and out of anxiety, I adapted to the people my age by dressing like them, when all I wanted was to be a punk. How did you create your present style? Style changes over time. It gets worn in, gets better, it gains in maturity. Mine is in keeping with who I am today. Changing my style would be like changing my soul! m j 85 ISABEL MARANT “BE AUTHENTIC” What is the history of your sartorial revolutions? From 9 to 12 years old, I looked like a tomboy: I wore a Stan Smith sweater that was too big for me, worn jeans, my father’s Harris Tweed jacket, and a very long fringe which would cover my eyes. When I was a teenager, my look became more experimental. My friends and I played around with our styles according to the music we listened to: hippies with super baggy Laura Ashley trousers, then mods/punks, new wave, which slipped into reggae then ragga, then hip hop. And there was also a ’50s touch. How did you create your present style? To have style is to be authentic. It has a lot to do with trusting yourself, and taking responsibility for your choices. I think I succeeded in knowing what suits me best. A rather simple look, cosy and comfy, with some wit and personality that’s often androgynous, but still sensual and feminine. m j 86 ESSENTIALS DREAM JEWELS GOLDEN LACES, LACQUER MOSAICS, BATON-CUT DIAMONDS, FEATHERS PAIRED WITH EMERALDS... THESE MASTERPIECES OF HIGH JEWELLERY SHOWCASE THE VIRTUOSO TECHNIQUE AND INSPIRED CREATIVITY OF A MOST SOPHISTICATED CRAFT. PHOTOGRAPHY PIERRE MANDEREAU STYLING SOPHIE VIGIÉ VISUAL ARTIST NICOLAS D’OLCE TRIBAL CHIC Necklace with Australian opal, Akoya pearls and diamonds on white gold, Acte V - The Escape collection, Louis Vuitton. PLEATED GEMS Dénoué Diamant necklace with diamonds and yellow diamonds on white and yellow gold from the Soie Dior collection, Dior Joaillerie. MOON DROPS Necklace with round-cut diamonds on white gold and platinum, Graff. AZURE BEADS Khvalissian chain with turquoise beads, cultured white pearls, diamonds and blue and mauve buff-top round sapphires on white gold, Van Cleef & Arpels. FEATHER FLOWER Cuff with emeralds, blue sapphires, diamonds and Lady Amherst pheasant feathers on white gold, Piaget. GOLDEN LACE Earrings with diamonds and two types of gold cut using the “tulle technique”, one-off piece, Buccellati. ORIENTAL MOSAIC Hypnotique ring with blue-violet tanzanite, diamonds and multi-coloured lacquer on white gold, Chanel Joaillerie. PRECIOUS CURVES Rondes de Nuit ring with two pear-cut diamonds and brilliant and baton-cut diamonds on platinum, Joséphine collection, Chaumet. Toi et Moi necklace with pear-cut fancy deep orangy brown-yellow diamonds and white diamonds on white gold, Messika. YIN & YANG Pendant, ring and earrings with black onyx and baton and brilliant-cut diamonds on platinum, Masterpieces collection, Tiffany & Co. AQUAMARINE Earrings with emerald-cut sapphires, baton and diamond-cut emeralds, and brilliant-cut diamonds on white gold, Bulgari. CLEAR WATERS Sensuale ring with a white quartz cabochon and black diamonds on white gold, De Grisogono. Clip-on earrings with rose-cut diamonds on white gold, Chopard. Graphic design based on the Incidents series by visual artist Nicolas d’Olce. WINTER GARDEN FLOWERS BLOSSOM IN THIS SEASON’S COLLECTIONS, BRINGING A BOHEMIAN TOUCH TO FLIPPY SKIRTS AND BOOTCUT TROUSERS. GET READY FOR NEO FLOWER POWER. PHOTOGRAPHY MADS & MAGNUS STYLING VÉRONIQUE CARRÉ CALLIGRAPHY NICOLAS OUCHENIR STYLISED BOUQUET Top and printed crepe skirt ensemble, Sportmax. Earrings, Céline. m j WILD BUNCH Silk brocade dress and skirt,Carven. Earrings, H&M. EVENING ROSE Dress and sequinembroidered cape in broadcloth, Dolce&Gabbana. Earrings, Céline. Poem: Les Yeux d’Elsa by Louis Aragon. 101 JAPANESE INSPIRATION Silk dress, Valentino. Earrings, Céline, wedge shoes in leather, Sportmax. m j REBEL REBEL Wool lace dress, double earrings and slip-ons, Céline ensemble. 103 SILVER FOLIAGE Plastic-embroidered waistcoat, Giamba, silk brocade trousers, Bally. Earrings, H&M. Poem: L’Idéal by Charles Baudelaire. 104 FRENCH GARDEN Organza and silk top, Giambattista Valli, gabardine cotton trousers, Marni. Perspex and rhinestone brooch, Prada, earrings, Céline, mules Carven. m j VIVID PETALS Printed silk dress and bustier in quilted cotton, Burberry Prorsum. Earrings, Céline. ’70s SPIRIT Printed and pleated silk dress, Kenzo. Earrings and boots, Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci. GLITTERING PRAIRIE Sequin-embroidered jacket, Giorgio Armani, printed neoprene jersey trousers, Blugirl, earrings, Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci. Hair Leslie Thibaud. Make-up Dior by Annabelle Petit: DiorSkin Nude Air, Ivory Powder, DiorSkin Nude Air Ambergris Tan Powder Ambre, DiorSkin Nude Cosmopolite Highlight Powder 001, Eyebrow Pencil Poudre Sable, 5 Couleurs Cosmopolite Eclectic, Diorshow New Look Black Mascara, Dior Addict Fluid Stick Avant-Garde, Dior Varnish Blackout, Dior Top Coat. m j ART MATTERS GRAFFITI STYLE Leather monogram pouch, Kenzo. Suede and leather sandal, Chiara Ferragni at the Bon Marché. Twist bag in Épi Aztèque leather and white denim, Louis Vuitton. METAL PYTHONS, FUR PATCHWORKS A ROUND UP OF PRECIOUS DETAILS TO SHOW OFF. PHOTOGRAPHY JEAN-NOËL LEBLANC-BONTEMPS STYLING VÉRONIQUE CARRÉ m j NEW ROCK STUDS Déjà Vu Bag in pony with studs, Marc Jacobs. Studded box Farming bag, Hermès. Emmanuelle Bag in fringed and studded black leather, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. BEAUTIFUL BEASTS Amulet bag in pleated leather and leopard-print calfskin, Miu Miu. Essentiels pump, in zebra-print calfskin, Céline. Python boot, Michel Vivien. 111 METALLIC SPARKLE Tassel loafers with small heels and silver leather, Coach. Ankle boot in golden python, Ash Studio Paris. Zipped shoe in golden python, Geox by Patrick Cox. XS Skinny Love leather bag, Zadig & Voltaire. 112 HARLEQUIN TRICKS Leather boot, Stella Luna. Drew bag in python patchwork, Chloé. m j COLOUR BANDS Anatole M bag, caviar leather and rust lambskin, Jérôme Dreyfuss. Calfskin leather boot, Loewe. NATURAL SCIENCES Be Dior bag in black calfskin embroidered with maxi badges, Dior. Dionysus bag in monogram canvas and embroidered bee, Gucci. Aigle boot in embroidered leather and alligator skin, Ralph Lauren. 115 SHINING CHIC Bordeaux zipped leather boot, Valentino Garavani. Green leather boot, Balenciaga. Beige leather boot, Gianvito Rossi. m j BOHEMIAN FRINGES Prismick bag in fringed velvet calfskin leather, Roger Vivier. Check-printed cotton and fringed leather bag, Burberry. Falabella fringed bag in camel alter leather, Stella McCartney. FLUFFY FURS Domino bag in mink patchwork, Sonia Rykiel. Mini Peekaboo shearling bag, Fendi. Sandals in precious skins and mink patchwork, Salvatore Ferragamo. m j 118 BEAUTY & Make-up Yves Saint Laurent by Jurgen Braun with Rouge Pur Couture The Mats, Rouge Pop n° 208 Fuchsia Fétiche and Nude Folk n° 207, Rose Perfecto. m j THE BEST OUTSTANDING BEAUTYCARE WITH AN HAUTE COUTURE FINISH, STUNNING PALETTES OF PINK FOR AN IDEAL COMPLEXION, INCREDIBLE LACQUERS FOR NAILS AND LASHES, AND FRAGRANCES INSPIRED BY FASHION TO CREATE AN EXQUISITE OLFACTORY EXPERIENCE. WITH TOP PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR PERFECT HAIR TO STEP OUT ON THE CATWALK… OR JUST TO ENJOY ROCK STAR LOOKS. BY PAULINE CASTELLANI, CÉCILE GUERRIER, MARION LOUIS AND BRIGITTE PAPIN PHOTOGRAPHY KARINA TWISS, STILL LIFE PHOTOS FABRICE CORMY STYLING JULIE GILLET m j Make-up Yves Saint Laurent by Jurgen Braun with Teint Encre de Peau Beige Rosé; Couture Kajal n° 1 Noir Ardent; Babydoll Effet Faux Cils Mascara n° 5 Rock Ultra Noir; Couture Collector Palette Metal Clash; Volupté Gloss n° 210 Beige Nu. SKINCARE SO HAUTE COUTURE! Platinum cards at the ready! The top addresses in the Golden Triangle of beauty to pamper demanding skin. BY MARION LOUIS m j 121 BEAUTY DIOR Dior Prestige Nectar and Crème Dior’s researches have made major breakthroughs in regenerating and smoothing delicate skins. The results are sublime. This new cream acts on the chronic inflammation that makes the skin prematurely wilt. Contains extracts of Granville rose, forty times concentrated. Feel Elastomer modelling petal which moulds the curves of the face to reshape it. LANCÔME Absolue L’Extrait Regenerating Ultime Elixir The brand with the rose logo also carefully cultivates plant stem cells for their high regenerative potential. A new step in the “cutting and layering” routine, this essence merges with the epidermis to recreate a radiant skin. Feel An evanescent sap with an oily texture... Oil-free, for a matchless experience. 30, avenue Montaigne, Paris 8th. 29, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris 8th. GUERLAIN Gold Eyetech serum, Abeille Royale With royal jelly and a Ushant honey base, this firming product primarily acts on reducing drooping and refining the eye contour. It produces visible results on crow’s feet, smoothes the skin, densifies the eyelids and reduces creases under the eyes. Feel Golden finger-applicator with a refreshing, decongesting effect. 68, avenue des Champs-Élysées , Paris 8th. SISLEY CHANEL Le Lift Toning Massage Mask This sophisticated range for fortysomethings is based on epigenetics to rekindle the skin natural processes, to regain a young, healthy skin. Used two to three times a week, this night mask which is infused with Neroli drains, sculpts and relaxes the features. Feel The creamy texture under the fingers dilutes into an oil thanks to a firming motion. 22 , rue Cambon, Paris 1st. m j Supremÿa At Night Balm The cream of the same name, which fights genetic ageing, has won 42 awards since its launch in 2009. The price of success is such that Sisley has launched an even more nourishing and restorative version to treat extremely fragile skin. And here it is, with the same anti-ageing active plant complex, enriched with hazelnut oil, kokum butter and macadamia oil. Feel 100% cushion: soft sleep, luscious awakening. 16, avenue George-V, Paris 8th. 122 BEAUTY MAKE-UP FIVE IDEAS TO TAKE THE CHILL OUT OF WINTER Brown, pink, lashes coated in black, nails that sparkle with the brilliance of a diamond... Fashion details that make all the difference! Make-up Guerlain by Jurgen Braun with Eye Pencil, Brun Idéal; Lingerie de Peau Foundation, Beige Naturel; Écrin 6 Couleurs Beaugrenelle; Cils d’Enfer Mascara, Black. BY PAULINE CASTELLANI INK FOR LASHES Make no mistake: this is not a mascara. This lacquer, formulated with a black polymer base (unlike mascaras, which use clear waxes that are then coloured ), is directly applied onto made-up lashes. A bit like a top coat that intensifies the radiance. A new addition to your routine? Yes, but easy enough to leave you addicted to its vinyl effect on the lashes. Mister Intense Black, mascara top coat, Givenchy. We also like the 3D volume of Audacious Mascara by Nars, Full Lash Volume Mascara by Shiseido and Extra Lash Sculpting Mascara by Laura Mercier. JEWEL VARNISH Grunge Sequins is the name of these Yves Saint Laurent stickers, shimmering like the bright beads stitched onto a black jacket from the winter collection. To imitate the rock star look crafted throughout the seasons by Hedi Slimane, you can even alternate them with self-adhesive Crystal Studs, silver metal 3D studs on a black background. You can also go for Bell Bottom Blues electric blue varnish by Essie Pro, the metallic grey Smokey Topaz by Bobbi Brown or the Crazy Animal golden fur-effect top coat by Kure Bazaar for Bon Marché Rive Gauche. A BRUSH WITH COMPLEXION Light Expert Click Brush, the queen of radiance, does it again. With even greater virtuosity. This time, Terry de Gunzburg, founder of by Terry, combines camouflage pigments, a gossamer texture and a kabuki-style applicator. That is, an angled brush that can sneak into all the areas of the face. There’s nothing better to facilitate blending, for an even clearer complexion... If you’re looking for the secret of a perfect satin complexion, try the Top Secrets hydrating base and Radiance Skincare Brush by Yves Saint Laurent. Use it to even out skin tone before putting your make-up on, and the mousse to touch-up throughout the day. Giorgio Armani, too, has gone for the travel applicator: a high-tech Cellbion sponge that imitates felt and draws out the light to obtain that famous “Armani glow”, seen recently in the runway shows. Check out Lasting Silk UV Compact. m j AUTUMN PINKS Bubble gum shades from Guerlain, ballerina colour-style from Clarins, powdered colours from Burberry, highvoltage electric from Estée Lauder... Applied to the lips, every shade of pink lights up skin still tanned from the holidays. All you have to do is take your pick from this bouquet of soft marshmallow pigments to give your make-up a fresh, elegant look, without going over the top: KissKiss Roselip Pink me Up, Guerlain; Rouge Eclat Tawny Rose, Clarins; Lip Velvet Rosewood, Burberry; Pure Color Envy Matte Sculpting Lipstick Neon Azalea, Estée Lauder. READY-TO-GO PALETTES These box sets offer a range of season browns, bronzed relief and coppery pigments. Chanel embosses them with Cistercian motifs – the same ones that purportedly inspired the legendary “Double C”. Urban Decay has a comprehensive colour chart of twelve shades. They slide into a moleskin-style sheath designed by Caroline de Maigret for Lancôme, or into a super-slim case stamped L’Oréal Paris. Entrelacs by Chanel; Naked Smoky by Urban Decay; Smoky Color Riche by L’Oréal Paris; Mes incontournables de Parisienne, Lancôme. Make-up Estée Lauder by Jurgen Braun with Perfectionist Youth-Infusing Make-Up 3C2, Pebble, and Sculpting Foundation Brush. ESTÉE LAUDER New Dimension Serum Over time, skin becomes slack, gaunt and dull. So for a real boost of youth, you need to work on the architecture of the face (collagen and elastin fibres), on the volume and density (lipids, hyaluronic acid, filaggrin etc.) and on the surface. This is what the new 3D serum sets out to do. The very best from Estée Lauder research to plump up, sculpt the contours and improve the quality of the skin. Feel An evanescent gel-cream which stretches without tensing up the skin.obilising. 767, 5th Avenue, New York. m j 124 BEAUTY Autumnal Roses, from left to right: Cosmopolite varnish n° 785, Dior and Diorblush Cheek Stick; Instant Moisture Glow, Hydratant Eclat Instantané, Top Secrets, Yves Saint Laurent Beauty; Floral Flush, Blush Mémoire de Forme, Givenchy; Lip Gloss Chelsea Girls, Nars; Powder Blush, Joues Contraste Alezane, n° 260, Chanel. m j 125 BEAUTY HAIR FASHIONABLE LOCKS All the latest accessories, products and trends, for beautiful hair in no time at all. BY CÉCILE GUERRIER BLOW-DRY PERFECTERS Some 45% of women leave their hair to dry naturally, because they’re short on time. Others, who use a hairdryer, spend 90 minutes a week doing so. How can we speed up drying time without damaging the hair? With a pro blow-dryer that operates at 95 kmh (instead of the average 60kmh), and an ideal temperature of 57°C, featuring an ionic function that eliminates static electricity and makes hair shine. DryCare Pro hairdryer, Philips. Infrared technology that stimulates the scalp and seals the cuticles can also be used. Professional Infrared Blow-Dryer by Balmain Hair. Another option for those keen on air-drying: drying accelerators. Used like primers on damp hair, these sprays hydrate, discipline frizz and create a natural blow-dried effect. “Don’t blow it” by Bumble and Bumble with prickly pear; Wonder Worker by Shu Uemura Art Of Hair with moringa flower; Turbo Dryer Blow Dry Spray by Matrix. THE MUST-HAVE BRUSH Sold in Japan for the last 10 years, the patented massage brush has now arrived in France. Far from being a gimmick, its 376 flexible fibres of different diameters untangle, activate the energy points on the scalp, triggers micro-circulation, and oxygenate the hair. A convenient accessory stimulating growth without damaging the hair or skin. Use on wet or dry hair, morning and evening, to lather up your shampoo or to put on a mask. Scalp Brush, Chez Colette, David Lucas, Rino De Nicolo and L’Atelier Blanc de Frédéric Mennetrier. m THE ANTI-FRIZZ WIPE Frizz? A stubborn strand of hair? Pull one of these sheets – steeped in olive and lavender oil – out of your bag and smooth your hair right down to the ends. In just a few seconds, the wipe leaves a shiny, nutritious, light and nongreasy film on your hair. A godsend for fine hair ! Frizz Dismiss Fly Away Fix finishing sheets, Redken (in salons). THE CONTOURING TREND The make-up contouring technique (using light and shades) has been transformed into colouring for the hair to create volume, enhance the shade, brighten the strands at the edges... “The product brightens and adds colour according to morphology and complexion, to highlight the best features of the face or reduce any imperfections”, explains leading colourist Frédéric Mennetrier. A bespoke technique to change your hairstyle without sacrificing either length or base colour. Hair Contouring, L’Oréal Professionnel, (in salons). j Make-up Lancôme by Jurgen Braun with La Base Hydra Glow; Miracle Air de Teint Lys Rosé; Artliner 24H Black Diamond, Grandiôse Black Mascara; Hypnôse Palette Nuit Mordorée; L’Absolu Rouge 188, Rouge Agate Sheer. Hair Anthony Watson. Shirt Gucci. FRAGRANCE THE ESSENCE OF STYLE Five flacons poised to charm and refresh your seasonal fragrance selection. BY MARION LOUIS m j 127 BEAUTY THE LITTLE PINK SWEATER THE SEDUCTIVE LITTLE DRESS No doubt about it. As soon as you put it on, life seems lighter. It gives girls a radiant complexion, boys funny ideas, and your bosses confidence. Never mind if it’s a bit too girly. Who really looks their age these days anyway? We’re wearing: Live Irresistible Eau de Parfum by Givenchy. A fluid line which doesn’t lack appeal with its iconic glass studs, rose/pineapple frills that somersault with Jamaican spice and the musky amber base that stops everything leaping too high. The one you wear to go out clubbing or the one you wear for your demi-god when you’re alone together; this is the one that shamelessly reveals your divine curves and requires more trail than fabric. We’re wearing: Olympéa by Paco Rabanne. With Invictus triumphing in the men’s department, a female pendant was needed: a caliente muse like Brazil’s Luma Grothe, a talisman bottle and a powerful accord. With it, slightly adrift aquatic notes come to the surface with a jasmine and vanilla edge. More Cleopatra than Venus. SILK UNDERWEAR We aren’t supposed to show it but we can leave them guessing. We feel ever more feminine and more sexy when having put some on. We’re wearing: Touche de Parfum, J’Adore by Dior, which is like a gastronomic flavour enhancer. This elixir brings out the fragrances, yours, as well as the whole J’Adore family, which shares the same floral bouquet. The House nose behind it, François Demachy, has given it a slight overdose of sandalwood and musk seeds for a more suggestive scent. Apply to your pulse points to create your very own sensual signature. Olfactory layering that makes you... unique. THE CHIC TRENCH COAT You need one, like the little black dress and the pair of Repettos. But beware of imitations. From Charlotte Gainsbourg to Mrs Columbo, it’s often only the trench that aged badly. We’re wearing: My Burberry Eau de Toilette, the scented alter-ego of the famous trench coat created by Thomas Burberry in 1879. All the details are there: the horn stopper is the button; the stone-coloured ribbon in gabardine, an echo of the grey-beige fabric; the floral scent, the essence of a London garden after the rain. And as a bonus, for a rock star touch, the blessing of two of the catwalk bad girls, Kate Moss and Cara Delevigne. THE LUXURY BAG It has a price tag equivalent to a senior exec’s annual salary, but someone may give you one as a gify. With it, you feel stronger, more elegant, commanding greater respect. Some bags last your whole life, others last a season but for each one, you love it as if it were your last. We’re wearing: floral scent Bottega Veneta Knot. This delicate floral fragrance where roses and peonies play hopscotch together, will perhaps help you win over the prince of the Riviera who has the It-bag up and on his sleeve. m j 128 ART DE VIVRE STAR CHEFS PRESENT THEIR NEW HOT SPOTS FIVE EXTREMELY TALENTED CHEFS INTRODUCE THEIR NEW PARISIAN RESTAURANTS. DELICIOUS, ENCHANTING, HIGH-FLYING CUISINE TO BE ENJOYED TO YOUR HEART’S CONTENT. BY MARIE-CATHERINE DE LA ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID COULON ILLUSTRATIONS FAARO STUDIO m j textures drawn from the Middle Kingdom’s traditional dishes grace side dishes, sauces or relishes without ever being overcast, and are enhanced by the wines, chosen to perfection by tea master Chi Wah or supplied from the splendid cellar which catches your eye on the patio. Pure products combined with the art of precision cooking illustrate the virtuoso performance of a true calligrapher in the kitchen. Le Yam’Tcha, 121, rue Saint-Honoré Paris 1st, +33 1 40 26 08 07, www.yamtcha.com Her favourite spots Izakaya Léngué “Delicious little Japanese tapas and a superb wine list. I really like this restaurant.” 31, rue de la Parcheminerie, Paris 5th, +33 1 46 33 75 10, www.lengue.fr Caravane “The fabrics and the chandelier in my restaurant came from there. It’s my favourite decoration haunt .” 6, rue Pavée, Paris 4th, www.caravane.fr Pierre Hermé “I love him! I’d sell my soul for his ‘infiniment vanille’ tart.” 72, rue Bonaparte, Paris 6th, www.pierreherme.com SIGNATURE DISH Breton Lobster sautéed in wok, stock, egg yolk and chives Adeline Grattard follows her instinct, working between woks and curls of steam. This dish is typical of her world, where Asia always shows up delicately on the plate. Lobsters are steamed for a few minutes then peeled, cut, and sautéed in a wok on high heat with freshly chopped ginger, Chinese chives and egg yolk. The stock – a bisque of sorts – is made from lobsters’ heads blazed in Cognac, tomato purée, Sambal chilli paste and garlic. Little red onions, sautéed in wok as well, are added. “I love this mixture of flavours, it reminds me of Guangzhou”, she says. ADELINE GRATTARD & CHI WAH CHAN ASIAN REFINEMENT Adeline was 28 when she left the 3-star Parisian restaurant L’Astrance. She packed and never looked back. She flew off, with her husband Chi Wah Chan, to Hong Kong, its fragrant harbour, and Guangzhou, the realm of dim sum. A maiden voyage that led to the creation of Yam’Tcha, a tiny restaurant in the heart of Paris’s Les Halles. The lack of ostentation coincides perfectly with Adeline’s personality: she sees herself as “a cook rather than a chef”. But then came the first star. The Michelin guide gave it to her a year after the opening. A fortune cookie prediction announced the place would flourish. And it did, a hundred metres away, in a bright, uncluttered new address, as soothing as a blue Song dynasty landscape, in complete harmony with Adeline’s cooking. A clear instinctive cuisine made from the ingredients and inspiration of the day (there is no menu). Flavours and m j 130 game of sensual cooking and takes us back in time to that childlike amazement at new discoveries and the sublime ecstasy of dipping one’s fingers in the jam jar. As the red neon at the entrance of his restaurant states: “Cooking is the art of turning products steeped in history into joyous delight”. Monnaie de Paris, 11, quai de Conti, Paris 6th,+33 1 43 80 40 61, www.guysavoy.com His favourite spots Papa Sapiens “A ‘word of mouth’ grocery that offers authentic and unique products in a very friendly atmosphere.” 7, rue Bayen, Paris 17th, and 32, rue de Bourgogne, Paris 7th, www.papasapiens.fr L’Étoile-sur-Mer “My former restaurant, rue Troyon. I have a sentimental attachment for it. Clément Leroy, my right-hand man, continues the story there. I’m a regular for the seafood.” 18, rue Troyon, Paris 17th, +33 1 53 81 72 50, www.etoile-sur-mer.com Second-hand bookseller Alain Huchet “His bookstall is just opposite the Paris Mint, and he specialises in old cookbooks. He knows every single Michelin guide. I thought I had them all, but The Seine flows along quietly, embracing its bookstalls and its he told me there was one American copy I didn’t have!” barges under the Pont des Arts. In marble-like silence, the steps of Opposite 11, quai de Conti, Paris 6th. the main staircase of Rabelaisian proportions take flight. We are at the beating heart of Paris. But a heart that still takes the time to enjoy wonderment, curled up in the bosom of the oldest manufacture in the world, where coins have been minted since 864. The encounter between the piano nobile of the neo-classic palace that houses this institution, built under Louis XV, and Guy Savoy, who lead the campaign to register French gastronomy on the World Heritage List, was meant to be a historic love story. Behold the Paris embankments as they offer themselves to the river and the seasons . The bridges that allow us to travel from one bank to the other, the Louvre in focus, the French Institute unveiling its Academy... You can take a look at all this beauty from the vast windows of the five sublime drawing rooms in enfilade that look out onto the Seine, where contemporary art seems to touch the cherubs on the trumeaux: “You’re not just in a magnificent place, you are in Paris, nowhere else. Every morning, discovering what colour the Seine will dress itself in, what colours chestnut trees will wear, fills me with emotion.” This breathtakingly beautiful and idealised Paris convinced the herald of French gastronomy, who’s kept the French flag flying for more than 40 years, to leave the Rue Troyon, near the Arc de Triomphe for the Quai de Conti. Last May, he arrived at the Monnaie (Mint) with his three Michelin stars, his team and the same ethic. “Cooking goes far beyond five flavours. It has to do with sensations. First, the prophetic fragrances, then the visual promises, followed by the “feel”, the touch of flavours – hot, tepid or cold, soft or dry – then, finally, Pan-fried mussels and wild St. George’s mushrooms comes the taste.” The entire tablewear service, created especially with an “earth and sea” jus for him in Limoges, was designed to let the senses resonate: the Many consider this to be Savoy’s finest dish. It combines the taste of the plates are perforated in order to cool the lobster in a cloud of cold sea in the mussels with the soft, fleshy consistency of the wild mushrooms. The juice from the mussels combines with that of the vapour, the cups release a petit-four concealed in their false botmushrooms to create the perfect fusion. Although this dish may look toms. Every dish is full of such surprises, little delights that are simple, it is a work of extreme precision that demands the greatest of caught in mid-air, on the fingertips. Savoy plays the virtuoso care, right down to the last millisecond or milligram. “Using two GUY SAVOY THE VIRTUOSO OF FLAVOURS SIGNATURE DISH ingredients that can be found in the wild – one from the land, the other from the sea – we create a simple pleasure, taken in the truest sense of these two words. This is the very essence of my vision of cooking. It doesn’t matter how many ingredients you use or whether or not they are considered gourmet. What matters is the pleasure you experience when you pick up your spoon.” m j 131 ART DE VIVRE YANNICK ALLÉNO THE ALCHEMIST OF SAUCES It’s been a year now since the majestic chef made his Parisian comeback. He won the Gault&Millau chef of the year award 2015. Le Chef magazine ranked him in the top ten of its “100 best chefs in the world”, with 512 stars. The Michelin guide awarded three stars to his Pavillon Ledoyen, the Second Empire institution, set in a Champs-Élysées garden. After Dubai, Taipei, Beijing, his new concept restaurant, Stay, – mapping his travels, and featuring table sharing and a “pastry library” – opened inside the newly refurbished Paris-Le Faubourg Sofitel. This revolutionary cook simmers, brews, distils, ferments and makes way to better impress you. Fire smoulders under the ice, form expresses content – that of his lightning sauces. “Sauces are the DNA, the watchword of French cuisine”, he says. A watchword that he holds in high esteem, skims, desalts, drains, by subjecting it lovingly to the ordeal of vacuum-packing, of low heat that finetunes, of cold that catches. As a result: pure stock. On our palate, sensations are increased tenfold, we literally kiss the very essence, the soul of the product. The celery extract that permeates his crusty pike brioche? An anthology of flavours. This Parisian kid who was born in Puteaux in 1968, in the middle of the night, says: “My cooking is like my city, and my city is Paris!” He is writing a new chapter in the history of French cuisine. Alléno Paris, 8, avenue Dutuit, Paris 8th. Stay, 15, rue Boissy-d’Anglas, Paris 8th. www.yannick-alleno.com SIGNATURE DISH Unusual gourmet fish soup First of all we get a real taste of the sea with a marinated sardine velouté and seaweed mayonnaise, served with fine strips of mullet seasoned with lemon and olive oil on a bed of ice. Truly delicious! Then,we taste the lait de sole (sole milk). Alléno was inspired to use this exquisite essence when he noticed white droplets form on the fish as it cooked. “Normally, people just wipe it away, but in fact all the goodness of the fish is concentrated in it.” This milk is whipped at the table with salt brushed from the skin of the sole. Once frothy, it is poured into the bowl that you have just finished, over cappelletti ravioli. A magical feast for the eyes that combines textures with an incredible purity of flavour. His favourite spots Market gardener Laurent Berrurier “He grows forgotten vegetables from the Île-de-France region. My carrots and pointed cabbages come from his store.” Some of his products are on sale at Terroirs d’Avenir. Épicerie Terroirs d’Avenir, 7, rue du Nil, Paris 2nd. Les Caves Legrand “A very beautiful house which introduced me to a great many wines.” 1, rue de la Banque Paris 2nd, www.caves-legrand.com Jean-François Piège/Le Grand Restaurant “It’s good to see enterprising chefs who are not afraid to take their destinies into their own hands.” 7, rue d’Aguesseau, Paris 8th. m j 132 SYLVESTRE WAHID THE NEWCOMER Sylvestre Wahid recently hung his chef’s hat at Thoumieux, taking over from Jean-François Piège. The prestigious brasserie, appointed with mirrors and faceted columns, has been a regular haunt for the smart set since it first opened in 1923. The gastronomic restaurant is upstairs and the pâtisserie across the street. The 39-year-old chef is considered something of a meteor in the firmament of French cuisine. Who would have thought that this native of Pakistan would fall headlong into the galaxy of Michelin stars? He was trained by Thierry Marx and mentored by Alain Ducasse, who had him learn the ropes as a sous-chef at the Plaza Athénée. Ducasse then sent him across the Atlantic to play second fiddle at his own restaurant in New York, the Essex House, which was awarded four stars – the highest culinary distinction in the United States – by The New York Times. Back in Paris, Sylvestre donned his teacher’s hat at the Ducasse school, but he missed the hustle and bustle of the kitchen. So he took to working over hot stoves at Oustau de Baumanière in Baux-de-Provence, in summer, and Strato in Courchevel in winter: two Michelin stars each! Refined flavours, delicate side dishes, precise preparation – Wahid’s phenomenal style now presides over Thoumieux’s destiny. His philosophy for the brasserie is to serve authentic, nofrills, friendly dishes only: “I like food to be shared, where a single meal unites everyone.” At the gastronomic restaurant, he plays a three-movement concerto: “vegetable-mineral, sea-river-lake, and my signature dishes”. Under the guidance of this aesthete, who wears a smile as bright as his cooking, Thoumieux’s two stars are well taken care of. And, who knows? Perhaps a third will soon be added. Such is Sylvestre’s dream. 58, rue Saint-Dominique, Paris 7th, www.thoumieux.com SIGNATURE DISH Egg and celery with smoked Provençal black truffle served warm/cold Wahid likes to adapt this dish to suit the season. This is the winter version. The egg white is beaten into stiff peaks with the yolk hidden inside, before being baked in the oven for a few minutes. It is then gently rested on a bed of celery marmalade garnished with truffle and drizzled with a truffle coulis. This is then surrounded by thinly sliced “petals” of truffle and topped with a fine circle of pain de mie bread. Served with a red wine sauce, a ramekin of celery velouté and a slice of toasted farmhouse bread with cured ham. His favourite spots The Plaza Athénée Bar “For the beauty of the place, the service and the excellent cocktails.” 25, avenue Montaigne, Paris 8th, +33 1 53 67 66 00, www.dorchestercollection.com La Pâtisserie des Rêves “Philippe Conticini has genius! To me, he’s the undisputed master of contemporary pâtisserie.” 93, rue du Bac, Paris 7th, www.lapatisseriedesreves.com Alma’s Open Market “A very fine market which offers high quality products.” Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16th, Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. m j 133 SIGNATURE DISH JEAN-FRANÇOIS PIÈGE Melt-in-the-middle blancmange His grandmother’s îles flottantes (floating islands) were a staple of JeanFrançois Piège’s childhood. Since then, he has come up with his own twist on this recipe by turning it inside out, encasing the crème anglaise within whisked egg whites to create a melting centre, before topping with a caramel disc. This has become one of Piège’s signature dishes, and he has also created a tasty recipe. A version involving truffle, one of his first ever creations, was a bestseller at the Hôtel de Crillon. THE STORYTELLER His rise to the stars is impressive. He started with the Michelin guide giving him three in 2001, when he headed up the restaurant at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée, then got two in 2005 at the Hôtel de Crillon, and a further two in 2011 for his gourmet restaurant at the Hôtel Thoumieux (where he recently handed over the reins to Sylvestre Wahid). That same year he was voted Chef of the Year, and in 2014 was crowned Creator of the Year by Omnivore magazine. During this period, he rose to fame in France thanks to the TV programme Top Chef, where he constantly reminded contestants that “a dish must tell a story”. This is true of restaurants, too. “I dreamed of having a restaurant of my own as a teenager. It was my life’s ambition from the very first time I walked through a kitchen door!” confesses Jean-François. At 44 (“the age of maturity”), he is finally at home. And it is here that he is telling his own story. He has already written the first chapter with Clover, which he and his wife Elodie opened in Saint-Germain-des-Prés last December. A cocoon forged in their image – authentic and warm. Today, he is back where he began his career (at the Plaza Athénée and Crillon hotels) on Paris’s right bank for the second chapter in this story of love and cooking with Le Grand Restaurant – JeanFrançois Piège. The door brings to mind a map of Paris, its handle the Seine, before two huge blocks of marble guide you through the kitchens and lead you out beneath a stunning glass roof. “There’s something magical at work in this place – I can feel it, I experience it”, he explains enthusiastically. “It’s my home as a chef.” Discipline, a desire to deliver the highest quality taste and experience, the inspired imagination and glimmers of genius in surprises like his inside-out blancmange come together to make this restaurant the French expression, par excellence, of stellar cuisine. 7, rue d’Aguesseau Paris 8th, www.jeanfrancoispiege.com His Favourite Spots Galerie Véro-Dodat “I never tire of the Parisian charm of this arcade, and I love having breakfast at Claus.” 19, rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau, Paris 1st. Christofle “The epitome of French silversmithing craftsmanship. Some of the cutlery we have in the restaurant comes from here.” 9, rue Royale, Paris 8th, www.christofle.com Pavillon Ledoyen “Yannick Alléno had the courage to take over the kitchen and is fighting to defend French cuisine.” 8, avenue Dutuit (Carré des Champs-Élysées), Paris 8th, www.yannick-alleno.com m j 134 INTERIORS WALL TO WALL PARISIAN CHIC BY FÉLICIA DU ROURET PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICE DE GRANDRY m j 135 Making the elliptical staircase, on the opposite page, was a technical feat. In the vast living room on the first floor, the space is divided up into major architectural effects and cosier corners. Eighties coffee table by Karl Springer and silver Art Deco candlestick by Jean Després. In the background, photos by Nobuyoshi Araki. IN PARIS, ON THE CHAMP-DE-MARS, ARCHITECT PIERRE YOVANOVITCH HAS CREATED A MASTERPIECE THAT REVIVES THE GREAT TRADITION OF 20TH CENTURY FRENCH INTERIOR DESIGN. HE REVEALS HIS VISION OF STYLE AND LISTS HIS FAVOURITE GALLERIES. A LESSON IN REFINEMENT. m j 136 H e is often associated with the new French contemporary style. Since he launched his agency in 2001, he has satisfied the most hard-to-please clients. Luxury goods tycoon François Pinault commissioned him to design his offices. Edouard Carmignac, head of the namesake investment fund, hired him to work on a project to host his personal collection, and designer Christian Louboutin, to fit out his first beauty boutique. Recently, former French Minister of Culture Jean-Jacques Aillagon m j curated the exhibition La Résistance des Images (1) at Le Royal Skating in Brussels, which the architect also renovated. Pierre Yovanovitch is an aesthete among aesthetes. The secret of his success lies in his erudite references, fondness for materials and craftsmanship, as well as in his surefooted taste in contemporary art. Born in Nice, he now lives in Paris, where he enjoys the contrast between the übertrendy Palais de Tokyo – “a modern manifesto behind classical façades” – the elegant Place Vendôme, the bountiful flea markets, and the fashion scene – for eight years, he learned the ropes working for Cardin. “It gave me a sense of crisp lines and a love of fabrics,” he says. Pierre finds his inspiration everywhere. At the beginning of each project, he scrupulously observes and analyses the surroundings. In this understatedly luxurious mansion on the Left Bank, he opened up the space to let the light in, and played with vertical and 137 INTERIORS On the opposite page, a detail of the drawing room on the first floor, with a ceramic fireplace by Armelle Benoit. A pair of 40s fireside chairs by Swedish designer Otto Schultz, and a 50s Arlus side table. On the right, suspended in the air, a metal walkway inspired by the boarding areas in Charles de Gaulle airport connects the rooms to the bathrooms. On the entrance floor (below) the black and white marble marquetry carries the architect’s signature. Console by Paul László, 1952, and photographs by Maiko Haruki. horizontal lines, softened by the rounded furniture. Rigour on the one hand, curves on the other, like those of the dining room table or the gigantic sofas, which stretch vertiginously to seat up to 10 guests, as “the masters of the house entertain a lot”. Pierre faced two challenges with this project: the spiral staircase and the walkway. The stairs do not lean against a wall but seem to flutter in the air like a ribbon. “That was definitely a technical feat and a cause of many a sleepless night!” he says. “The full structure (which took four months to build) was supposed to be lowered through the roof. What if it couldn’t get through?” It did. The walkway that m j INTERIORS The oak and hammered-glass dining room table on this page was designed by Pierre Yovanovitch. 50s ceramics. On the opposite page, Le Trapéziste, raffia and yarn tapestry by Alexander Calder. 139 connects the main room to the bathroom was another tour de force. It was inspired by the boarding areas at Charles de Gaulle airport. “I love travelling and airports,” he explains. To liven the place up, he chose American furniture from the 20s to the 60s, in a quest for ever rarer objects. “I didn’t want to bring the same editions here as everywhere else, and what’s unique about this furniture is that it’s easy to live with.” A man with a bright future ahead, who is about to open an agency in New York. (1) Until 31 October, 2015, read more at www.lapatinoireroyale.com HIS FAVOURITE GALLERIES DESIGNER FURNITURE Eric Philippe for rare 20th-century Scandinavian furniture. 25, galerie Véro-Dodat, Paris 1st, www.ericphilippe.com Kreo for limited editions by high-profile contemporary designers. 31, rue Dauphine, Paris 6th, www.galeriekreo.fr Carole Decombe for charming decorative art objects, both contemporary and vintage. 30, rue de Lille, Paris 7th, www.galeriecaroledecombe.com Maria Wettergren for her selection of sophisticated Scandinavian designers. 18, rue Guénégaud, Paris 6th, www.mariawettergren.com HP Le Studio for exceptional furniture that wouldn’t be out of place in a museum. Kamel Mennour for his sensitive take on contemporary creation. 47, rue Saint-André-des-Arts, Paris 6th , www.kamelmennour.com, Thaddaeus Ropac who brings together big names in the art world as well as up-and-coming artists. 1, rue Allent, Paris 7th. 7, rue Debelleyme, Paris 3rd, www.ropac.net CONTEMPORARY ART Anne de Villepoix for her eclectic choice of artists. Bugada & Cargnel, a lesser-known venue that supports both emerging and established French artists. 43, rue de Montmorency, Paris 3rd, www.annedevillepoix.com 7-9, rue de l’Equerre, Paris 19th, www.bugadacargnel.com m j 140 NOTEBOOK ESSENTIAL PARIS FROM PLACE VENDÔME TO ST-GERMAIN-DES PRÉS VIA THE MARAIS, OUR BEST TIPS FOR LOOKING GOOD, WINING AND DINING, DISCOVERING THE CULTURE, CLUBBING IN THE HIPPEST VENUES, OR FINDING YOUR WAY IN THE MOST ROMANTIC SPOTS. BY CLAUDINE HESSE, LAURENCE MOUILLEFARINE, EMMANUELLE EYMERY, MARION LOUIS, MARION DUPUIS, VALENTIN PORTIER ILLUSTRATIONS VERONICA DALL’ANTONIA m j 141 LEATHER GOODS L/UNIFORM One of the most recent fashion boutiques to establish itself on the mansion-lined Left Bank, L/Uniform occupies a large space boasting a landmark façade. It was designed to look like a curiosity cabinet. The brand’s fully handcrafted travel backpacks, pouches and tote bags are made in Carcassonne. Each one is one of the kind, named and numbered. 21, quai Malaquais, Paris 6th, +33 1 42 61 76 27, www.luniform.com LOOKING GOOD COOL GEEK AMI The fashion world’s favourite artistic director for men’s fashion, Alexandre Mattiussi, aka Ami, has just set up shop close to Colette. What does the fashion crowd like in their AMI? His chic and easy to wear wardrobe, well-cut blazers, chalk tone leather and wool jackets, pinstripe suits, vintage coats, as well as his collaborations with other top brands. 14, rue d’Alger, Paris 1st, +33 9 82 44 40 20, www.amiparis.fr FRAGRANCES FOR THE HOME DIPTYQUE Completely renovated last spring, the brand’s flagship boutique is a hit for its famed fig, berry, woody and flower scented candles. The most popular are L’Ombre dans l’Eau and Philosykos. Victoria Beckham, Claudia Schiffer, Roland Mouret and Karl Lagerfeld just can’t get enough. 34, boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris 6th, +33 1 43 26 77 44, www.diptyqueparis.fr THE ART OF MASSAGE BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE Renowned for its face-lifting massages and super concentrated products made with organic vegetables and marine extracts, this brand is established in a town house on the Champs-Élysées. Its flagship institute, L’Ambassade de la Beauté, is as luxurious as it is relaxing – the décor is all pleated silk, engraved gold leaves and Corian surfaces. L’Ambassade de la Beauté 32, avenue des Champs-Élysées, Paris 8th, +33 1 42 25 02 92, www.biologique-recherche.com m j 142 NOTEBOOK STAR COLOURIST CHRISTOPHE ROBIN AT THE MEURICE Have your hair dyed in a luxury hotel suite by Christophe Robin, the star colourist, who started out by dying models’ hair in his chambre de bonne 20 years ago. Now working in a Parisian palace, he plays with colours and contrasts. Catherine Deneuve and Tilda Swinton are among his regulars. By appointment only. Hôtel Meurice, suite 128-129, 228, rue de Rivoli, Paris 1st, +33 1 40 20 02 83, www.christophe-robin.com BEAUTY TREATMENTS WATCH BAR PIAGET The brand’s new 510 sqm futuristic flagship displays fine jewellery in hushed interiors, where you’ll discover Piaget’s Possession line of rings, with their rotating bands, as well as complex watches sought by the world’s biggest collectors. Customers can also visit the watch bar. A master in watch-making is at hand to share the art’s ins and outs. 7, rue de la Paix, Paris 2nd, SPA MY BLEND BY CLARINS +33 1 58 62 37 00, www.piaget.com AT THE ROYAL MONCEAU A place for beauty treatments of the utmost refinement. The facial and body products are made according to the needs of each customer’s skin. Make the most of the day by starting with “My Sweet Detox” program, followed by a yoga or Pilates class, then enjoy a divine massage, giving you access to the Olympic sized pool and gym. We also like the pretty spa bar that adjoins the pool, where you can nibble on cashew nuts and sip on green tea while you wait to have your treatment. CONCEPT STORE 37, avenue Hoche, Paris 8th, +33 1 42 99 88 99, www.leroyalmonceau.com COLETTE Since its opening 16 years ago, the concept store has inspired many others across the world. Fashion hunter Sarah excels in the fine-tuning of limited series created especially for Colette. The latest collection CHIC BAZAAR includes a prêt-a-porter line by bag INÈS DE LA FRESSANGE designer Anya Hindmarch, superb Tomasini Since it opened last spring, chain bags, and items from hit-brand Inès’ boutique is the talk of the Coperni, whose two head designers town. This perfectly curated are now at the helm of Courrèges. bazaar with wooden floors and 213, rue Saint Honoré, Paris 1st, painted cupboards contains +33 1 55 35 33 90, www.colette.fr everything for living the Parisian boho-chic lifestyle. The boutique stocks everything from fashion apparel to homeware, including MADE-TO-MEASURE tea towels, dresses made SANDALS in France, shoes from Italy, shirts CORDONNERIE ATTAL made of the most beautiful This artisan cobbler has been making poplin, Indian fabrics and olive made-to-measure sandals for oil from Provence. the last 30 years. The shop provides 24, rue de Grenelle, Paris 7th, +33 1 45 48 19 06, www.inesdelafressange.fr a selection of the most beautiful leathers to choose from. Customers can also select their favoured style and colour, as well as whether to get their initials engraved into the sole of the shoes. One of the cobbler’s most loyal clients is Inès de la Fressange, who included him in her book La Parisienne, dramatically increasing his client list. 122, rue d’Assas, Paris 6th, +33 1 46 34 52 33. m j 143 TRENDY TEENS FOR YOUR FEET ONLY BASTIEN GONZALEZ He has held the feet of Naomi Campbell and Robert De Niro, among many others. The chiropodist of the stars now has two cabins at the Molitor Hotel. His signature treatment, Reverence de Bastien, unravels in three parts: first comes a black diamond exfoliation, then a pearl polish along with the application of a crushed mother-of-pearl base cream, and finally a divine massage. Molitor Spa By Clarins, 8th, avenue de la Porte-Molitor, Paris 16th, +33 1 56 07 08 80, www.bastiengonzalez.com FINGER IN THE NOSE The hit brand has just opened its third boutique in Paris on the avenue Trudaine, in the family neighbourhood of South Pigalle. Vanessa Paradis, a regular customer who is often seen in the Marais outpost on rue de Saintonge, shops here for her children. You can be sure to find the right pair of well-cut and perfectly faded jeans, the ideal winter coat or the neon bomber jacket, all in an urban rock chic style. 45, avenue Trudaine, Paris 9th, and 60, rue de Saintonge, Paris 3rd, +33 1 42 71 43 40, www.fingerinthenose.com RARE PERFUMES WORLD OF SCENTS JOVOY A charming boutique nestled under the arches of the rue de Castiglione, bordering the place Vendôme. François Henin, self-proclaimed ambassador of rare perfumes, offers a huge selection of brands – about 1,300 fragrances. Made in small batches, the perfumes have names like Clive Christian, Roja Dove and Pure Distance, and are almost always impossible to find elsewhere. KILIAN The heir to a Cognac-producing family, Kilian Hennessy specialises in fragrances and jewellery. In his monochrome boudoir, he reveals a new fragrance suggestively named Voulez-Vous Coucher Avec Moi (“Do you want to sleep with me”) as well as his Art Déco-inspired perfumed objects for the home, and a line of perfumed jewellery by Paige Novick. 4, rue de Castiglione, Paris 1st, +33 1 40 20 06 19, www.jovoyparis.com POLISH HEAVEN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN We’re running (in high heels) to Louboutin’s newest outpost. Located in one of the city’s most beautiful covered passageways, the shop – designed by Pierre Yovanovitch – is entirely dedicated to his nail polish collection, the prelude to a full make-up line. This pretty little boutique with lacquered walls looks like a giant luminous bottle of nail varnish, where the multitude of nail polishes is displayed in alcoves, like art works or jewellery. 20, rue Cambon, Paris 1st, +33 1 40 39 94 14, www.bykilian.com ROCK COLLECTION LANCEL It’s a new era for the leather merchants who have reopened their original boutique in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Without selling their soul, they are making a subtle reference to the Lancel of the thirties and have launched a brand new concept which should grow fast! Their latest It bags are showcased in a super bright white graphic box, made of black lacquer and blond wood: behold the Bianca, a very seventies shoulder bag or the Huit, a rock version of their legendary Bucket bag. 8, galerie Vérot-Dodat, Paris 1st, +33 1 53 00 21 09, www.christianlouboutin.com 43, rue de Rennes, Paris 6th, www.lancel.com m j 144 COMPLICATION WATCHES AUDEMARS PIGUET October will see one of the events of 2015: the opening of this major Swiss watchmaker’s flagship store. It will be an opportunity to discover the new Millenary collection of grand complication watches. The interior design remains top secret but, as with all the brand’s stores around the world, will be inspired by the Brassus, the river that runs through the eponymous village, where the company was founded 135 years ago and still operates to this day, in the watchmaking Mecca that is the Vallée de Joux. Corner of rue Royale and rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, Paris 1st, www.audemarspiguet.com VINTAGE SPIRIT CHEEKY COCOON MAISON SOUQUET In SoPi (South Pigalle), this former brothel has been transformed into a trendy establishment with twenty bedrooms and six suites. Red velvet graces the lounge, with portraits of famous early20th-century courtisanes. The pretty, dinky bar was designed by Jacques Garcia, who left his inimitable mark on the place. 10, rue de Bruxelles, Paris 9th, +33 1 48 78 55 55, www.maisonsouquet.com THANX GOD I’M A V.I.P A favourite with fashion stylists, this temple of vintage has a whole floor dedicated to reasonably priced garments by top brands. Each find can be customised on site by the owner, who is also a fashion stylist. The secondhand store will soon be extended by 400 sqm to make room for menswear. Finally! 12, rue de Lancry, Paris 10th, +33 1 42 03 02 09, www.thanxgod.com ETHICAL TANNING FRANCIS KURKDJIAN The fragrance designer’s fifth outpost, in the heart of the Marais, is the place to shop for exclusive perfumes and scented paper, incense and bubble-blowing products for children that smell like fresh-cut grass. You’ll also find the new eau de parfum Aqua Vitae Forte, a delicious mix of woody fruit essential oils, as well as his very first scented leather goods collection, co-created with Paris saddle-maker Atelier Renard. Expect to find pieces in alligator, lamb or calf skin, all tanned ethically in France. 7, rue des Blancs-Manteaux, Paris 4th, +33 1 42 71 76 76, www.franciskurkdjian.com INDIAN INSPIRATION BOUCHERON The brand’s new Bleu de Jodhpur collection is nothing short of amazing. Claire Choisne, the jeweller’s artistic director, worked with Maharajah Gaj Singh II to create it. Choisne used materials rarely seen in high jewellery, including marble from Makrana and sand from the Thar Desert. The most spectacular piece is the reversible Jodhpur necklace, which has marble and diamonds on one side, and rock crystal and sapphires on the other. 26, place Vendôme, Paris 1st, www.boucheron.com m j 145 NOTEBOOK ROYAL TREAT A FAMILY TALE EMILE & JULES The two brothers’ Parisian bakery uses certified “reasoned agriculture” wheat straight from the mill, on their father’s farm in the Yvelines. Rye and honey bread, sourdough bread, ginger cob and, last but not least, the star of the show, Pillow, a 1,5 kg loaf that keeps for a week or so. 18, rue de la Terrasse, Paris 17th, +33 1 73 75 67 44, www.emile-jules.com BUCOLIC STROLL MAILLE This mustard is fit for a king. Established in 1747, Maille has been the official purveyor of the courts of Russia, Austria, Hungary and France. Two stores now house its upmarket products: the boutique on Place de la Madeleine, and the new shop in the Carrousel du Louvre. You will find mustard served fresh from the pump, vinegar at the counter, and presents galore – from little gourmet Chablis and morel mushroom or sun-dried tomato mustards to vinegars made from Sauternes or Bordeaux wines in black ceramic bottles. 99, rue de Rivoli, level O, allée du Carrousel, Paris 1st and 6, place de la Madeleine, Paris 8th. www.maille.com CHAUMET Jean-Marc Mansvelt, Chaumet’s new managing director, has one wish: to bring the Culture of this great jeweller to light. To do so he’s opened, in the place Vendôme flagship store, a temporary museum whose setting was designed by Elizabeth Leriche. Until January, 30, 2016, behold a naturist-inspired selection of seventeen old pieces, drawings and unseen photographs, and also a capsule collection made especially for the occasion. HEALTHY CUISINE CLAUS Located right opposite Louboutin, former Givenchy press agent Claus tantalises the fashion crowd palates with his light, organic, flavoursome cuisine. Cross the street to visit his brand new Épicerie du PetitDéjeuner, devoted entirely to breakfast, for Thés de Constance, Stéphane Perrotte’s traditional jams, Stonewall Kitchen Pancake Mix and maple syrup, not to mention the homemade muesli. 14, rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau, Paris 1st, +33 1 42 33 55 10, www.claus-paris.net EATING... 12, place Vendôme, Paris 1st, www.chaumet.com APOTHECARY OFFICINE UNIVERSELLE BULY All made in France, the products sold here include paraben-free clay masks, incense, soap oils for sensitive skin, orange blossom soaps, Eau de la Belle Haleine, as well as a mint-tea teeth-cleaning paste, a mysterious vegetal wood and resin pot pourri, and, last but not least, the 0-RokuKushi collection of combs, renowned for leaving hair as smooth and shiny as a Japanese woman’s. 6, rue Bonaparte, Paris 6th, +33 1 43 29 02 50, www.buly1803.com m j 146 NOTEBOOK DIVINE PRALINE LA PÂTISSERIE DES RÊVES People flock here from all over the city for the Paris-Brest. The shop’s signature cake just melts in your mouth with its exquisite praline taste. You may also want to try the orange pie, the vanilla Grand Cru or the XXL Madeleine, all by Philippe Conticini, one of France’s top pastry chefs. 111, rue de Longchamp, Paris 16th, +33 1 47 04 00 24, www.lapatisseriedesreves.com BOHO MECCA HIGH-QUALITY MEATS HUGO DESNOYER Meat lovers make a beeline for this master butcher’s. Hugo Desnoyer selects the animals on the farm, for melt-inyour-mouth meats of the highest quality: Charente-Limousine veal, Lozère lamb, Salers beef, and Patis poultry. He cooks the choicest pieces for his communal table, set in the heart of his shop. Remember to make a reservation, as space is limited and it’s always full. True meat lovers will feast on the Trialogue for two. 28, rue du Docteur-Blanche, Paris 16th, +33 1 42 88 29 17, www.hugodesnoyer.fr BRASSERIE BARBÈS Have lunch beneath the glass roof or by the fireplace in this new boho temple. Relax in the post-industrial décor, featuring green marble, brass and wood panelling, and enjoy lacquered chicken in spinach, raisin and mint, a rack of lamb with a herb crust, or a salad of orange, grapefruit, nuts and Italian cheese. Then treat yourself to a detox cocktail and head for the dancefloor! 2, boulevard Barbès, Paris 18h, +33 1 42 64 52 23, www.brasseriebarbes.com ...& DRINKING PARISIAN BRASSERIE COCKTAIL CRAZY AUX MARCHES DU PALAIS Right at the foot of the Trocadéro, in a side street hitting the banks of the Seine, this bistro belongs to the owners of the Pizzeria d’Auteuil, which is a famous place for its simple family meals and local patrons. The newly renovated Parisian interior of this century-old brasserie has kept its very much-loved charm of yesteryear, with old posters and menus decorating the walls, and wood and a zinc bar. Ober Mamma East Mamma is the place to go for an Italian meal and regional produce, while Ober Mamma is a watering hole for a drink and nibbles at the bar. Barman Nicola Battafarano will work magic with his cocktail shaker: try the Bitter Mandarine, a fresh long drink made with Cinzano and homemade mandarine jam, or the Saffron, a “deadly” cocktail of Italian gin, absinthe and a 6-year-old saffron infusion, as you feast on Tuscan or Trentino charcuterie, or dip into a Parmesan wheel. The mozzarella is delivered every other day straight from Naples. 5, rue de la Manutention, Paris 16th, +33 1 47 23 52 80. 107, boulevard Richard-Lenoir, Paris 11th, www.bigmammagroup.com m j 147 SEA PRODUCTS LA MARÉE JEANNE This new seafood restaurant is set in a quiet street, a stone’s throw from the buzzing rue Montorgueil. Chef Cyril Boulet trained with Robuchon and Troisgros. Try his fish cooked with the scales, sea bass tartare with seaweed, and lobster consommé, or simply a plate of oysters at the bar. IN BETWEEN AUCTIONS L’ADJUGÉ Art lovers can now delight their palates in the midst of the Drouot auction house. This bar-galery serves exquisite foie gras carpaccio with chopped hazelnut, skate Tempura, and a Caesar salad prepared in three dishes, with the sauce on the side to dip the chicken pieces or lettuce leaves. The menu was concocted by Amandine Chaigneau, the young chef who left the Hôtel Raphaël in Paris for the prestigious Rosewood Hotel in London. 3, rue Mandar, Paris 2nd, +33 1 42 61 58 34, www.lamareejeanne.com 9, rue Drouot, Paris 9th, +33 1 48 00 20 20, www.drouot.com BRUNCH AND SUNDAY DINNER AUX PRÉS Chef Cyril Lignac’s new restaurant in Saint-Germain-des-Prés is a hall of mirrors with soft, cosy banquettes. Tuck into the house veal sweetbread with carrot mousseline, Black Angus burger, or the caramelised black cod marinated in miso sauce. 27, rue du Dragon, Paris 6th, +33 1 45 48 29 68, www.cyrillignac.com/restaurants/aux-pres RESPONSIBLE GROCERY MAISON PLISSON There’s something for everyone at this boho-chic food market. Some 80% of the produce sold here is sourced by suppliers interested in an organic approach. There is also a fine cellar filled with little mouthwatering food counters, and a dining room “just like home”, where you can enjoy seasonal cuisine, with dishes by Bruno Doucet and Benoît Bordier of La Régalade. This networked store is the brainchild of Delphine Plisson, an exuberant 40-something who used to work in fashion. The staff will peel and cut your vegetables on demand. Using a dedicated app, you can also keep an eye on your shopping basket and learn how to prepare your purchases. 93, boulevard Beaumarchais, Paris 3rd, +33 1 71 18 19 09, www.lamaisonplisson.com VIP WORLD YEEELS One of Paris’s latest hotspots, in the Golden Triangle area of the city, Yeeels is the place to go for dinner, before and/or after parties. Supermodels and businessmen rub shoulders in this elegant restaurant reached via a stately black marble staircase. Padded banquettes, alcoves for privacy, not to mention the bar filled with light, where you can enjoy a cocktail prepared by Benjamin Chiche, who loves to work with exotic fruits such as kumquats or kaffir limes. A DJ takes care of the musical entertainment. 24, avenue George-V, Paris 8th, +33 1 42 88 75 75, www.yeeels.com m j 148 STARS IN VOGUE GALERIE DE l’INSTANT Julia Gragnon’s Marais boutique is a sheer delight, just like its owner. As a teenager, she used to pore over women’s fashion magazines, “dazzled by the power and lighting of the photographs”. Today, she exhibits fashion photos, portraits of film stars, and photo reports. In October, she will be staging “Raymond Cauchetier, New Wave photographer”. Jean Seberg fans will be over the moon. rd 46, rue de Poitou, Paris 3 , +33 1 44 54 94 09, www.lagaleriedelinstant.com MAGIC MOMENTS PARIS PHOTO 167 international exhibitors are expected to attend the event, ranging from old, modern and contemporary photography galleries to booksellers and publishers. ART & ANTIQUES Grand Palais, avenue Winston-Churchill, Paris 8th. 12-15 November, www.parisphoto.com ART IN MOTION FIAC INTERNATIONAL CONTEMPORARY ART FAIR Galleries move into the Grand Palais, and also off-site, in the Tuileries Gardens, the Jardin des Plantes, Place Vendôme, etc. 22-25 October, www.fiac.com PLANET ART GALERIE EMMANUEL PERROTIN Success is the word! 47-year-old self-made-man Emmanuel Perrotin has set up shop in two hôtels particuliers in the Marais district. He was the first to show Takashi Murakami outside the artist’s home country (Japan), as he did with Maurizio Cattelan and Damien Hirst, before they became art market superstars. Perrotin’s “stable” counts some 40 visual artists, including Sophie Calle, Bernard Frize, Laurent Grasso and Xavier Veilhan. 60 and 76, rue de Turenne, Paris 3rd, +33 1 42 16 79 79, www.perrotin.com BLUE CHIPS GALERIE MARIAN GOODMAN This peaceful spot with a courtyard plays host to major artists, including John Baldessari, Steve McQueen, Annette Messager, Juan Muñoz, Gerhard Richter and Jeff Wall. Just 20 years ago, New York-based super art dealer Marian Goodman opened a second gallery in Paris. To celebrate this anniversary, she will be exhibiting Christian Boltanski’s installations during the FIAC. 79, rue du Temple, Paris 3rd, +33 1 48 04 70 52, www.mariangoodman.com POST-WAR DESIGN GALERIE PASCAL CUISINIER Enthusiasm galore! Pascal Cuisinier is most passionate about first-generation French designers who modernised the post-war way of life. His exhibitions showcase both designers – Pierre Guariche, Joseph-André Motte, Jacqueline Lecoq and Antoine Philippon, Pierre Paulin – and publishers. 13, rue de Seine, Paris 6th, +33 1 43 54 34 61, www.galeriepascalcuisinier.com m j 149 NOTEBOOK RETRO STYLE GALERIE MEUBLES ET LUMIÈRES Alexandre Goult and Guilhem Faget made their debut at a flea market. The two young men have a soft spot for 1950-1970s metal and glass objects, and their finds often carry highly prized signatures, such as Gino Sarfatti, Pierre Paulin and Maria Pergay. Spotlight on lamp designer Robert Mathieu (from 15 October to 15 December). PERIOD LIGHTS GALERIE VONTHRON Need a chandelier? Look no further: William Vonthron is an expert in the field. He has light features of all eras and styles. Look up and you’ll see a Napoleon III model featuring rock crystal pendants as well as a ’60s Italian novelty made from lacquered sheet metal and wrought iron. Vonthron has just left the prestigious Carré Rive Gauche to return to the flea market where he started out 40 years ago. 58, rue Mazarine, Paris 6th, +33 6 76 67 21 06 and +33 6 98 03 11 22, www.meublesetlumieres.com Marché Dauphine, stand 151, 132-140, rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen, +33 6 12 91 49 08 and +33 6 83 35 26 35, www.galerievonthron.com RARE BOOKS OLD-STYLE PRINTS GALERIE CAMERA OBSCURA This gallery is located accross from the Fondation Cartier. In a previous life, its owner, Didier Brousse, printed the work of top photographers such as Willy Ronis and Paolo Roversi. Today, he promotes contemporary French and international photographers, with a preference for analogue photography. His next guest is Bernard Plossu and his exquisite Fresson prints (until 16 November). LE PONT TRAVERSÉ This bookstore is total joy. Rummage around until you find a rare collection of poems, a book on Surrealism, or an out-of-print illustrated edition. The lady of the house is Marcel Béalu’s widow. The shop sign pays tribute to French writer Jean Paulhan, which goes to show just how fond she is of literature. 62, rue de Vaugirard, Paris 6th, +33 1 45 48 06 48 . OUTSTANDING FRAMES GEORGES BAC At Georges and Stephen Gross’s, connoisseurs are sure to find what they’re looking for in antique frames, as their father and grandfather specialised in these at their gallery on the rue Bonaparte. The two brothers turn Regency and Louis XV frames into mirrors, surrounded by 20th-century decorative art. Pierce Brosnan’s wife paid them a visit the first weekend they opened their booth. 268, boulevard Raspail, Paris 14th, +33 1 45 45 67 08, www.galeriecameraobscura.fr ART FLAIR GALERIE KAMEL MENNOUR Until 1999, Kamel Mennour, one of Paris’s most prominent art dealers, sold lithographs door to door. This year, he was instrumental in bringing internationally renowned artist Anish Kapoor’s works to the Château de Versailles. No need to say that Kamel is a workaholic with an innate gift for spotting and establishing up-and-coming artists. Marché Biron, stand 106, 85, rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen, +33 6 98 12 13 40. 47, rue Saint-André-des-Arts and 6, rue du Pont-de-Lodi, Paris 6th, +33 1 56 24 03 63, www.kamelmennour.com m j 150 NOTEBOOK PARIS BY NIGHT BEYOND THE SEA PARIS AQUARIUM Explore the depths of the ocean with the whole family at the Paris Aquarium. Located opposite the Eiffel Tower, it stays open late on the first Saturday of the month (by reservation only). A free glass of champagne in hand, you can play the biologist and introduce the kids to the manta rays, sharks and clownfish they have only seen in movies. 5, avenue Albert-de-Mun, Paris 16th, www.cineaqua.com SPINNING UP AND DOWN YOYO Located in the basement of the Palais de Tokyo, this venue has become a staple of the Paris clubbing scene, injecting some badly-needed new life into the 16th arrondissement. Although the versatile main room hosts a range of creative events, the main reason to go there is to party. The city’s A-list crowd, including music label Kitsuné and the boys from Club Sandwich often go out there on weekends. Palais de Tokyo, entrance on 20, avenue de New-York, Paris 16th, www.yoyo-paris.com UNDER THE STARS WANDERLUST AND NÜBA The geometric neon green façade opposite the Bercy arena hides much more than just the Cité de la Mode et du Design; it is home to two of Paris’s hippest nightspots. The city’s cool kids flock there to party, attracted by the lure of free entry. On the roof terrace, Nüba is the place for clubbing under the stars. A floor lower, Wanderlust boasts a terrace overlooking the Seine (only open for specific events in winter). 32 and 36, quai d’Austerlitz, Paris 13th, +33 1 76 77 34 85, www.nuba-paris.fr and www.wanderlustparis.com HIDE & DRINK BEEF CLUB BALLROOM A homage to Prohibition-era bars, speakeasies share many of their features, including well-hidden venues or the use of passwords. The Ballroom, with its retro ambiance, can be found at the top of metal steps and a long corridor in the basement of the renowned Beef Club steakhouse. Even Jay-Z and Beyoncé are said to enjoy slumming it here. 58, rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau, Paris 1st, +33 9 54 37 13 65. BLUE NOTES DUC DES LOMBARDS The best jazz musicians on the circuit have played in this club, which welcomes talented young performers looking for their big break. Stick around for the free After Hours session, with a live orchestra every Friday and Saturday after midnight (no free drinks!). 42, rue des Lombards, Paris 1st, + 33 1 42 33 22 88, www.ducdeslombards.com m j 151 SUNSET GARDENS JARDINS DU PONT NEUF This new barge, accross from the former Samaritaine department store, is an exclusive port of call, with its elegant Art Nouveau décor set around a tree bedecked with golden leaves. The luxury experience extends to the services it offers – if the valet-option on dry land doesn’t appeal, then ask for a lift home or enjoy a sunset cruise on the 1962 Riva boat. The two large terraces heated in the cold season. Quai de l’Horloge, île de la Cité, Paris 1st, www.lesjardinsdupontneuf.com JOIN THE JET SET L’ARC L’Arc has been hugely successful since it was refurbished by Lenny Kravitz’s design company and reopened in 2014. Facing the Arc de Triomphe, the club attracts everyone who’s anyone in Paris. The covered garden terrace is perfect for keeping warm in autumn. The interior somehow revives the magic of ’80s Paris and often hosts preview afterparties for the major film studios. Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 12, rue de Presbourg, Paris 16th, www.larc-paris.com CITY LIGHTS POMPIDOU CENTRE The Pompidou Centre is a Mecca for culture vultures. Its collections rival those of the MoMA. On Thursdays, galleries remain open until 11 p.m. It’s the perfect time to see the retrospectives dedicated to Cuban painter Wifredo Lam (from 30 September) and German artist Anselm Kiefer (from 16 December), before drinks at the Georges restaurant, on the same floor, with its stunning view over the city. Place Georges-Pompidou, Paris 4th, +33 1 44 78 12 33, www.centrepompidou.fr ICE CREAM KING OLD-FACTORY STYLE LE CARTEL The stairs that lead to this new glitterati ghetto set the tone, as ivy tumbles down from the ceiling and along the crumbling walls. The club’s décor combines reclaimed wood and raw metal in a style reminiscent of an abandoned factory. Even the furniture has been designed so that clubbers can climb on the seats and cling to the acid-stripped walls. The bar staff is well-versed in tequila-based drinks and shots. The musical line-up is as eclectic as it is hip, featuring a host of international DJs. UNE GLACE A PARIS The Marais is home to a cosy, classy ice cream parlour that stays open until 11 p.m. Emmanuel Ryon, former head ice-cream chef with 3-star chef Anne-Sophie Pic, has joined forces with Olivier Ménard, a former Pierre Hermé pastry chef, to create a stellar menu. The flavours are unusual, and the kiwi fruit sorbet has proved a hit with locals. If it’s too cold for an ice cream, try the green tea or hazelnut “cakes de voyage” with herbal tea. 15, rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, Paris 4th, www.une-glace-a-paris.fr 4, rue Arsène-Houssaye, Paris 8th. SOPHISTICATED LIVING LE CLUB DU CERCLE This former literary venue has been transformed into a residence for chefs from all over the world, who take it in turns to head up the kitchen throughout the year. The bar is the domain of Alain Duquesnes, who boasts an impressive CV including the Ritz, Ledoyen, George-V... The cocktails, wines and champagne match the selection of snacks prepared by the resident chefs. Listen out for the über-French playlist compiled by Hugues Piketty. 6, rue Etienne-Marcel, Paris 2nd, www.leclubducercle.fr m j 152 K ADDRESSES ACNE STUDIOS www.acnestudios.com ANNE-SOPHIE COULOT +33 9 82 41 08 82 ATELIER VERSACE +33 1 47 42 88 02 www.versace.com AUDEMARS PIGUET +33 1 40 20 45 45 www.audemarspiguet.com BALENCIAGA +33 1 56 52 17 32 www.balenciaga.com BALLY +33 1 42 65 58 98 BLUMARINE +33 1 45 61 33 22 BOUCHRA JARRAR +33 1 40 26 73 32 BUCCELLATI +33 1 42 60 12 12 BULGARI +33 1 55 35 00 50 www.bulgari.com BURBERRY PRORSUM +33 1 40 07 77 77 www.burberry.com CARTIER + 33 1 42 18 43 83 www.cartier.com CARVEN +33 1 44 61 02 07 www.carven.com CÉLINE +33 1 40 70 07 03 www.celine.com CHANEL+33 800 255 005 www.chanel.com CHOPARD +33 1 42 68 80 30 www.chopard.fr CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN +33 1 42 68 37 65 www.christianlouboutin.com COS www.cosstores.com DE GRISOGONO +33 1 44 55 04 40 www.degrisogono.com DEYROLLE +33 1 42 22 30 07 www.deyrolle.com DIOR +33 1 40 73 73 73 www.dior.com DOLCE & GABBANA www.dolcegabbana.com DUVELLEROY+33 1 42 84 07 52 EMPORIO ARMANI+33 1 53 63 33 50 www.armani.com ERMANNO SCERVINO +33 1 40 98 00 44 www.ermannoscervino.it ESTEE LAUDER www.esteelauder.fr FENDI+33 1 49 52 84 52 www.fendi.com FRANCESCO RUSSO www.francescorusso.com GAULTIER PARIS +33 1 72 75 83 65 www.jeanpaulgaultier.com GEOX www.geox.com GIAMBA +33 1 40 17 05 88 GIAMBATTISTA VALLI +33 1 83 62 08 32 GIORGIO ARMANI+33 1 42 61 55 09 www.armani.com GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI+33 1 47 03 02 60 GIVENCHY+33 1 42 68 31 00 www.givenchy.com GRAFF www.graffdiamonds.com GUERLAIN +33 1 45 62 52 57 www.guerlain.com GUCCI www.gucci.com H & M www.hm.com HELENE ZUBELDIA www.helenezubeldia.com HERMÈS+33 1 40 17 47 00 www.hermes.com JIMMY CHOO www.jimmychoo.com KENZO+33 1 40 39 72 03 www.kenzo.com KIKO www.kikocosmetics.com LANCÔME www.lancome.fr LANVIN +33 1 44 71 31 73 LOEWE +33 1 53 57 92 50 LONGCHAMP +33 1 55 90 59 69 LOUIS VUITTON +33 9 77 40 40 07 www.louisvuitton.com MAJE +33 1 42 36 26 26 MARC JACOBS +33 1 55 35 02 60 www.marcjacobs.com MARNI+33 1 56 88 08 08 MESSIKA +33 1 40 41 04 27 MICHAEL KORS+33 1 70 36 44 40 MINELLI+33 810 007 191 MIU MIU+33 1 58 62 53 20 MULBERRY+33 1 42 60 00 64 NINA RICCI www.ninaricci.com PABLO +33 1 55 80 55 80 PARMIGIANI FLEURIE www.parmigiani.ch PATEK PHILIPPE+33 1 42 44 17 77 PAUL SMITH+33 1 53 63 13 19 www.paulsmith.com PIAGET +33 1 58 18 14 15 www.piaget.fr PIERRE HARDY+33 1 45 55 00 67 www.pierrehardy.com PRADA +33 1 53 23 99 40 www.prada.com ROGER VIVIER +33 1 43 43 00 85 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO +33 810 001 200 SANDRO www.sandro-paris.com SCHIAPARELLI +33 1 76 21 62 60 SISLEY +33 900 74 28 28 www.sisley.com SONIA RYKIEL+33 1 49 54 60 60 SPORTMAX +33 1 49 52 16 00 STELLA McCARTNEY +33 1 47 03 03 80 www.stellamaccartney.com STUART WEITZMAN +33 1 42 33 41 47 TIFFANY & CO+33 1 40 20 20 20 ULYANA SERGEENKO www.ulyanasergeenko.com VACHERON CONSTANTIN +33 1 40 20 17 55 www.vacheron-contantin.com VALENTINO +33 1 47 23 64 61 www.valentino.com VAN CLEEF & ARPELS wwwvancleefarpels.com +33 1 55 04 11 11 VERSACE +33 1 47 42 88 02 www.versace.com VIKTOR & ROLF +33 1 44 14 38 00 www.victor-rolf.com m Editorial Director Anne-Florence Schmitt International Editor-in-Chief Dolores Aloia Editors-in-Chief Richard Gianorio, Nicole Picart, Jean-Sébastien Stehli. Art Directors Yorgo Tloupas, William Stoddart, Gwenola Couëdel Associate Art Directors Madoka Rindal, Matthieu Rocolle Chief Subeditor Stéphane Moran Senior Copy Editor Isabelle Mériot Copy Editors Paul Richman, Rooksana Hossenally, Julia Deck, Caroline Balloteaud Translation Jérémy Victor Robert j FASHION Section Editors Delphine Perroy, Sophie Vigié BEAUTY Associate Editor Brigitte Papin Section Editor Marion Louis LIFESTYLE Associate Editors Emmanuelle Eymery, Claudine Hesse Section Editor Felicia du Rouret Production Director Charlotte Deuil Casting Manager Lou Amplemont Editorial assistants Marie Lima, Stéphanie Piednoël (Coordination), Marie Spiessert (Fashion) Publisher Stéphanie Jolivot Public Relations Director Natalia Abella Legal Director Bénédicte Wautelet Manufacturing Director Marc Tonkovic Circulation Director Philippe Grinberg Production Managers Philippe Jauneau, Alain Penet, Serge Scotte SYNDICATION AND COPYRIGHTS Director Valérie Theveniaud-Violette, Anne Flageul-Crehan, Valérie Santoni-Barussaud [email protected] A FIGARO GROUP PUBLICATION Chairman Serge Dassault CEO and Publishing Director Marc Feuillée Deputy CEO Jean-Luc Breysse Publishing House Société du Figaro, SAS 14, boulevard Haussmann — 75009 Paris Tel.: +33 1 57 08 50 00 ADVERTISING : FIGAROMEDIAS CEO Aurore Domont Commercial Director Hélène Mengus Advertising Director Virginie de Bernede International Director Eileen Le Muet 9, rue Pillet-Will — 75430 Paris cedex 09 Tel.: +33 1 56 52 20 00 Printed in France by Agir Graphic Group. Madame Figaro is also published in China, Cyprus, Emirates, France, Greece, Japan, Portugal, Saudi Arabia, Spain and Thailand This copy is free and cannot be sold. ANTIBES Stunning family home situated within a highly protected domain of the very chic and well known area of Pimeau.12 bedrooms with bathrooms. Guest house and caretaker’s accommodation. Swimming pool. Sea view from the 1st floor. Perfect condition. Ref : MGN-2173-AG Price range : from 5.000.000 to 10.000.000 € Emile Garcin Côte d’Azur +33(0)4 97 97 32 10 - [email protected] PARIS 7th DISTRICT - GROS CAILLOU In a fine classic building, a 228 sq.m apartment, large reception rooms, 4 bedrooms. Near Champ-de-Mars. In perfect condition. Cellar and service room. VAR - GRIMAUD Ref.: PRG-00992-EV Price range : from 2.300.000 to 5.000.000 € Emile Garcin Paris Rive Gauche +33 (0)1 42 61 73 38 - [email protected] CALVADOS 5 min from Deauville. Beautiful property dating from the Directory of about 300 sq.m with typical Norman House of 200 m² and caretaker’s cottage. On a ground of 4 acres with views over surrounding countryside. Ref : STZ-1507-JC Price range : from 5 000 000 to 10.000.000 € Emile Garcin Saint Tropez +33(0)4 94 54 78 20 - [email protected] PARIS 16th DISTRICT - FOCH / DAUPHINE CASTLE IN THE GARD South of France, Southern Cevennes, Castle built in the XIth century extremely well renovated, 4,5 hectares of land, with 7 bedrooms, 2 apartments and outbuildings, in the heart of wild unspoilt countryside. Ref : CEV-3026-NF Price range : from 1.300.000 to 2.300.000 € Emile Garcin Cevennes & Languedoc +33 (0)4 66 03 24 10 - [email protected] In fine 1978 building, on the 4th floor with lift, a 128 sq.m apartment. Double living room, kitchen, 2 bedrooms with balconies, 2 bathrooms. Renovation required. Cellar and parking space. Ref : PRD-1214-MR Price : 1.300.000 € Ref. : DEV-1212-CMA Price : 1.272.000 € Emile Garcin Deauville + 33 (0)2 31 14 18 18 - [email protected] Elegant property and its 30ha park. A lot of charm and a touch of Tuscany. Two reception rooms with fireplace, 6 bedrooms ensuite with bathroom. Old renovated sheephold for guests or keepers. Heated swimming pool and poolhouse, fountains, vineyards. Emile Garcin Paris Rive Droite +33(0)1 58 12 02 02 - [email protected] 10 KM FROM SAINT EMILION A XVIth century property with 360° view. This historical ensemble includes a 350 sq.m house and a guest’s house, a castle to be renovated, and outbuildings. On 8ha of wooded land. Ref : BDX-2073-HC Price : 989.000 € Emile Garcin Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 00 12 21 - [email protected] 154 VICE-VERSA “QUAND LES POULES AURONT * DES DENTS ” “WHEN PIGS FLY” Expressing utter disbelief in the unrealisable, this well-known expression captures the idea that some things are materially impossible and that to overcome this limit would not be without peril. It must be a relic from a time when a fear of the gods and eternal punishment would dictate human behaviour. For example, Prometheus ended up chained to a rock in the Caucasus for attempting to steal the fire from the Olympus’ divinities. Icarus wanted to fly, to defy gravity, but the sun melted the wax that held his wings together and he perished at sea. Perhaps, then, this expression invites us to be wiser and more humble, to find serenity in all things finite. We can meditate upon it and accept our modest condition. However, we must be careful, for the limits of things can also change. The fire sought by Prometheus is now present in our homes; having left the ground in the first hot-air balloon, we have now reached the moon. Just like Icarus, it might therefore one day be possible that pigs fly too. A phrase can be likened to a coin: it always has two sides, with each one showing the exact opposite truth to that of the other side. *Literally: “When chicken have teeth” BY MARC LAMBRON, MEMBER OF THE ACADÉMIE FRANÇAISE ILLUSTRATION ANTOINE CORBINEAU BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE WELCOMES YOU IN ITS PRIVATE MANSION 32 CHAMPS-ELYSÉES PARIS P E R S O NA L I Z E D T R E AT M E N T S www.biologique-recherche.com dior.com