Christmas spirit in
Transcription
Christmas spirit in
JUNE 2012 inflight magazine Exclusive! Arrigo Sacchi, italian football legend The Parisian bar à vins 50 facts leading up to Euro 2012 Christmas spirit in Budapest The chameleon on the Danube YOUR FREE COPY + FREE INSIDE Scan this code with your smartphone Ваш новый дом вместе с Ordo +371 67 099 099 www.ordoag.lv Рига, улица Базницас 27/29. Квартира 120 м2, 3-й этаж, три комнаты, ремонт, полностью меблирована. Рига, улица Грециниеку 11. Квартира в Старой Риге 53,8 м², 2-й этаж, две комнаты. Рига, улица Вальню 4. Квартира в Старой Риге 167 м², 3-й этаж, четыре комнаты, камин, меблирована. Цена 250 000 EUR Цена 140 000 EUR Цена 1 100 000 EUR Юрмала, Булдури, проспект Видус 54. Квартира 72,4 м², 2-й этаж, две комнаты, полностью меблирована, встроенная техника. Юрмала, Дзинтари, пр. Дзинтару 13/15. Квартира 103,6 м², 1-й этаж, две комнаты, меблирована, встроенная техника, паркинг. Юрмала, Дзинтари, проспект Дзинтару 39. Квартира 86.6 м², 2-й этаж, две комнаты, полностью меблирована, камин. Цена 300 000 EUR Цена 575 000 EUR Цена 580 000 EUR Недвижимость в Юрмале и Риге Агентство Ordo осуществляет сделки по продаже и аренде недвижимости в престижных районах Юрмалы и Риги. Мы поможем вам сориентироваться и принять оптимальное решение с учетом ваших пожеланий, а также возьмём на себя заботы о формальностях. CONTENTS / JUNE Wheel into the wild Baltic Outlook explores Denmark’s Jutland / page 80 8 Editorial Staff Chief Editor: llze Pole / e: [email protected] Editor: Ieva Nora Fīrere / e: [email protected] Translator, copyeditor and reviser: Kārlis Roberts Freibergs Design: Marika Štrāle Layout: Inta Kraukle Cover: Alamy Baltic Outlook is published by SIA Frank’s House Stabu 17, Riga, LV 1011, Latvia ph: +37167293970 w: frankshouse.lv e: [email protected] Director: Eva Dandzberga e: [email protected] Advertising managers: Indra Indraše e: [email protected] m: +37129496966 Lelde Vikmane e: [email protected] m: +37129487700 Ieva Birzniece e: [email protected] m: +37126416866 The opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the authors and/or persons interviewed and do not necessarily reflect the views of the editors at Frank’s House SIA. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. Printed at UAB Lietuvos Rytas, Lithuania, phone +371 29 42 69 61 10 12 16 22 24 26 30 32 34 36 50 60 72 80 96 100 110 114 117 Thought On truth-tellers, liars, bosses and subordinates City icons Rome’s most iconic gelaterias Agenda June 2012 Promo Positive vibrations of the Positivus festival Five places in one day Bergen Review Albert Camus’ solitude and Regina Spector’s cheap seats People Coffee champions of Oslo Retro Tapio Wirkkala’s Paperbag – a Finnish design icon Design Gents’ essentials Style Sunny walking Your next destination Budapest Interview Arrigo Sacchi, former general manager of the Italian national football team Special 50 football facts leading up to the Euro 2012 championship Gourmet The Parisian bar à vins Travel Cycling in Denmark’s rural areas and spaghetti Westerns in Europe’s only desert Driven: the Toyota GT86 Gadgets Bedside friends Food & drink Downtown spots for catching a taste of Riga Food blog Benefiting from the Cretan diet airBaltic news Read Baltic Outlook on your iPad! Download free of charge from App Store. Welcome aboard Martin Alexander Gauss Chief Executive Officer Dear customer, Aviation has a significant impact on national and regional economies, concludes a recent study by Oxford Economics, commissioned by the International Air Transport Association in 60 countries around the world. Air links are a vital element of infrastructure for countries and regions, and airports essentially are modern centres of development. These are lifelines for business and tourism in today’s economies, enabling swift travel for passengers, and smooth logistics for cargo. In addition, the connections created between cities and markets represent a strategic asset that generates benefits through foreign direct investment, business clusters and specialization. Oxford Economics analysts have detailed their conclusions in the research paper, but you, our customer, have already seen it in practice. airBaltic has written history and opened new routes to regional centres that never existed before. You have observed taxi companies adding extra vehicles and drivers to service passengers at the airport, hotels investing to extend their facilities and staff, local restaurants printing their menus in yet another language to better cater to a new foreign clientele, producers of pharmaceuticals or electronics opening up new export markets, and your next-door neighbours sending their children to a university abroad to bring back new skills. All of this activity adds significant value to the economy and creates jobs. In Latvia alone, aviation contributes to 2% of the gross domestic product and supports 2% of all jobs available in the market, according to the above study. This summer, we have increased flight frequencies on a number of routes in Western Europe, Scandinavia and the CIS, which are important for business and tourism. In addition to our existing destinations with multiple daily flights, we now fly twice daily to the Benelux region and to destinations in Germany and Austria. For airports such as Zurich, Billund and Moscow, we have stepped up frequencies for the convenience of our customers. The spirit of airBaltic to try new things extends throughout the organisation and beyond the fundamentals of our core business. We are passionate about setting new trends for the benefit of our customers, which is why airBaltic has been duly recognised as the innovation leader and ranked among the TOP 10 airlines globally by Airlinetrends.com – an independent industry and consumer trends research agency. We achieved this high ranking in the top league for a wide array of innovative products, including world’s first inflight car dealership for a custom-designed Mini Cooper, roses on board, an iPad for inflight entertainment, the world’s first bicycle rental service by an airline (BalticBike), and many more. We thank you for continuing to inspire us! Yours, Martin Alexander Gauss BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 7 DETAILS / THOUGHT Text by Robert Cottrell, owner of Robert’s Books | Photo by Reinis Hofmanis, f64 Are you a good listener? Do you On truthtellers, liars, bosses and subordinates that he or she will scarcely use “I” at all. think before you speak? If you answered A bit of thought helps to explain why. “yes” to both questions, reflect on this. If you are the high-ranking person in a The English language has about conversation, the chances are that you are 450 words that linguists call “function” telling someone else what to do. If you words – conjunctions, articles, prepositions are the lower-ranking person, the chances and so on. These are words such as “I”, “we”, are that you are reporting on yourself, or “behind”, “except”, “the”, “a”, “because”. If you seeking something for yourself. are a fluent English speaker, these function Men use articles – “the” and “a” – much words account for less than 0.1 per cent of more than women. Articles are also your vocabulary. But they also account for disproportionately popular with older more than half of all the words that you people, conscientious people, and political actually speak or write. conservatives. Until very recently, nobody paid much Truth-tellers use exception-words – attention to these seemingly humble parts “except”, “but”, “without” – much more of speech. They weren’t thought often than liars do. And whereas to contribute a great deal to You might liars are popularly thought to the distinctive content of what ramble and obfuscate, according to think that Pennebaker they actually prefer to people heard or said. They were powerful use short and simple sentences – just the packaging. Whether you people said “table”, “the table”, or “a table”, perhaps because it is so difficult to would say make things up. it was still the same table. That neglect has been Once you know about “I” a lot. punctured by a Texan Far from it Pennebaker’s findings, can you psychologist called James use them to your advantage? Not Pennebaker, who used his laptop always. Let’s say you want to tell computer, plus Gmail and Google Books, a lie and get away with it. So you speak in to measure how he and other writers used complicated sentences, with lots of “ifs” and pronouns down the ages. “buts”. The problem is, to most people that Patterns leapt out at him – often the sounds like lying. So you get caught anyway. reverse of what he expected to find. You The pronoun trick is more promising. We might think, for example, that powerful know that powerful people use “I” less often. and pompous people would say “I” a lot. Far So will not using “I” make you a powerful from it. person? Look at your own e-mail archive. If you Not directly. But if Pennebaker is right, are writing an e-mail to your boss, chances then not using “I” should make you appear are that you will use “I” many times. When more powerful to other people. That, surely, your boss writes back to you, chances are is almost as good. Try it. I just did. BO DETAILS / CITY ICONS Text by Ieva Nora Firere | Photo Corbis with children; quiet nuns from the nearby convents; and, of course, hordes of tourists. As becomes a legendary establishment, there is a particular way of doing things here. First, you have to stand in line at the cash register, where you pay for your ice cream in advance. Then you stand in a second line to receive your coveted gelato. There are dozens of flavours to choose from, including chocolate, pistachio, hazelnuts, cream, panna cotta and numerous fruits. You’ll be encouraged to pick more than two flavours, even if you’ve paid for the smallest of the sizes. Don’t argue with the ice-cream server and let your childhood fantasies run wild. To add a final layer of icing onto your cake, top off your unseemingly large mound of ice cream with a refreshing sorbetto. Via Uffici del Vicario 40 | Hours: daily from 07:00–01:30 www.giolitti.it Il Gelato di San Crispino Delicious moments to linger over Two spring days were enough to practically sell my soul to the best-known Mephistophelian tempters in Rome – two iconic gelaterias or ice-cream parlours Fly to Rome with airBaltic from €85 10 / AIRBALTIC.COM They say that gelato has a lower butterfat content than regular ice-cream because it’s made of milk and egg yolks, in most cases without dairy cream. During my days of gelato-tasting, spent amid exhausting long Giolitti walks as a first-timer in Rome, a gelato diet Theoretically, the owners of Giolitti might managed to keep me filled (true, a hearty have let the fame of their establishment get hotel buffet breakfast did serve as a base of to their heads a long time ago. For decades, departure). this ice-cream parlour has been teeming Anyhow, hidden in a side street, just with crowds of both locals and tourists. It three minutes from the crowded Trevi is also occasionally visited by high-placed Fountain, lies Il Gelato di San Crispino. Unlike dignitaries and their families. At a G8 summit many overpriced traps around such busy in 2009 American “first children” Malia and tourist spots in the city, San Crispino is a sure Sasha Obama made banana and blackberry bet. Although it has been reviewed in quite gelato together with the current a few prestigious publications, More than owner, Nazareno Giolitti. The thus raising its profile, the quality establishment seems to live of the ice-cream has not suffered 100 years well with its status as the most later, Giolitti one single bit. Despite the heavy famous ice-cream parlour in tourist influx, the owners haven’t can still the city. Back in 1890, dairy claim to have given up their solid belief in a farmers Giuseppe and Bernadina cups-only policy, claiming that the best ice cones mess up the taste. Asking Giolitti opened a creamery on cream in the for a cone here would be the Via Uffici del Vicario, where the city present-day parlour still stands. same as asking for milk and sugar Soon after, they became official at a place that roasts its own suppliers to the Italian royal family. specialty coffee. It goes without saying that More than 100 years later, Giolitti can Rome’s best gelaterias offer homemade still claim to have the best ice cream in the gelato without any artificial additives or city. Even its interior – with high ceilings, colourings. Try out some of the more exotic crystal chandeliers and an aura of history – offerings, such as walnuts and dried figs, attests that this is a place where ice cream ginger and cinnamon, or when the season is taken seriously. Waiting in line by the comes – raspberries and green apples. Via della Panetteria 42 glass display cases, one may spot members Hours: Sun.–Thu. 12:00–00:30, Fri.–Sat. 12:00–01:30 of the Italian parliament, which lies a mere www.ilgelatodisancrispino.it two-minute walk away; loud Italian families .com DRINK WITH CARE. STOLICHNAYA® Premium vodka. 40% Alc./Vol. 100% Grain Neutral Spirits. © 2012 Alcohol consumption cAn be hArmful to your heAlth DETAILS / LOCAL AGENDA Publicity photos JUNE / 2012 All that jazz Vilnius Picture Gallery , Vilnius / June 16, 20:00 Featuring legendary songs formerly performed by Ella Fitzgerald, Peggy Lee, Sarah Vaughan, Nat King Cole, Louis Armstrong and Frank Sinatra on its programme, the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra is holding a concert outside of its traditional venue at the Congress Concert Hall. This time, head for the courtyard of the Vilnius Picture Gallery and immerse yourself into the magic of the voices of Evelina Sašenko, Evelina Anusauskaite and Sasha Song. The orchestra will conducted by Gintaras Rinkevičus. Tickets from 25 – 75 LTL, available at the Vilnius Congress Hall box office and at www.bilietai.lt Didžioji g. 4 Elīna Garanča Requiem by Giuseppe Verdi Dzintari Concert Hall (Dzintaru koncertzāle), Jūrmala / June 21, 20:00 The Riga Festival is a new annual event, taking place for only the second time from June 2–21. However, judging by the list of superb concerts and star performers on the program, it appears that this festival is set to become an established tradition in the city. Among the festival highlights is the performance by Latvian mezzo-soprano Elīna Garanča at the closing concert of the festival on June 21. Classical music lovers will once again be treated to the magic of her voice in Jūrmala, where she will present Giuseppe Verdi’s Requiem together with soprano Michèle Crider (USA) and tenor Yosep Kang (South Korea), in the company of the Latvian Radio Choir and the Latvian National Symphony Orchestra. The conductor will be Karel Marc Chichon (UK), who also happens to be the husband of Garanča. Tickets from 20 – 70 LVL at www.ticketparadise.lv 12 / AIRBALTIC.COM Bryan Adams concert performances Vilnius and Riga / July 2–3 One of this summer’s concert highlights in the Baltics is by Canadian musician Bryan Adams and his band, performing hits from a career that has spanned three decades. Following a concert on July 2 at the Arena Riga, Adams will move on to the Siemens Arena in Vilnius on July 3. To date, the artist has sold more than 55 million albums worldwide. He has been nominated for the Grammy Awards 15 times and won twice. Adams is also a composer, whose movie soundtracks have received several Oscar and Golden Globe nominations. Tickets for the Riga concert are available at www.ticketservice.lv and www.ticketpro.lv. For the Vilnius showing, visit www.tiketa.lt DETAILS / LOCAL AGENDA Art Nouveau fashion Museum of Decorative Arts and Design, Riga / From June 15 Strangely enough, Riga, which is known for its high concentration of beautiful Art Nouveau buildings, still hasn’t had an exhibition devoted to the fashion from this architecture and design period, also known as La Belle Époque (1890–1914). The ideal woman from that era had a slim, corseted waist, long, mermaid-like hair and flowing garments. Art Nouveau aesthetics combined a love of nature with asymmetrical ornaments, as well as medieval elements with a rococo style. This style of fashion was wellreceived in Riga, which at the time was the richest trade and industrial city in the Russian Empire. The exhibition features 70 exquisite items of clothing created by the leading fashion houses of that era – Worth, Doucet, Paguin, Drecoll, Rouff, Poiret, Babani, and Fortuny – of which many are from the personal collection of the show’s curator, Alexandre Vassiliev. This is the second exhibition that the Paris-based fashion historian has held in Riga. The first, which took place last year, was devoted to 1960s fashion. Skārņu iela 10/20 www.vassiliev.com Jan Pieter Breughel (1628–1664). Still life with tulips, roses and creeper in a glass vase. 17th century. Oil on canvas. Modus Vivendi gallery (Moscow) Kingdom of flora. 17th-century Dutch and Flemish painting, Art Museum Riga Bourse: Exhibition Hall, Riga / June 8 – August 26 For most of the summer, the Riga Bourse will be filled with flowers, in the form of Dutch and Flemish paintings on loan by the Modus Vivendi art gallery in Moscow. The 20 canvases will feature landscapes, portraits, household scenes and still lifes, most of them produced by members of the famous Breughel family. The paintings will be purposefully arranged so that each work complements the one before it, either visually or by its subject matter, revealing each author’s style to the fullest possible extent. The paintings of this exhibition have been studied by Russian and Western art historians, along with specialists from the Botanical Institute of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Their research study describes each painting in detail, explaining its composition, and of course, denoting the nature of the flowers depicted in each canvas. OUTLOOK / PROMO IN ASSOCIATON WITH POSITIVUS Positive vibrations at POSITIVUS! Fly to Riga with airBaltic from July 20-21 Salacgrīva, Latvia Keane, Damien Rice, Manic Street Preachers and Friendly Fires are amongst the many artists to perform at Positivus, which is the biggest and most eagerly awaited annual music and arts festival in the Baltics. Throughout the years, Positivus has collected an increasing amount of festival awards and mentions, from being one of Filter Magazine’s ‘Top 5 Most Anticipated (International) Summer Festivals’ in 2011, to receiving the ‘Best European Festival’ award from the British Festival Guide. London’s Metro also included Positivus in its ‘Best Summer Festival’ selection, characterizing the event as “unpretentious, with a strong, eclectic line-up that now attracts some 20 000 revellers”. Positivus captivates its guests with a vibrant line-up of exciting performers, providing a soothing atmosphere amidst 16 / AIRBALTIC.COM €33 sandy beaches, misty forests and spacious meadows. The festival also offers cinematic entertainment, water sports activities, morning gym and yoga, creative music and arts workshops, as well as stylish festivals will be positively delighted with the Latvian summer entertainment jewel that is Positivus. Previous headliners include Stereophonics, Travis, James, Scissor Sisters, King Charles, Positivus Festival 2012 tickets are already on sale and are priced at 47 EUR for a two-day ticket without a camping site pass, and 52 EUR for a twoday ticket with a camping site pass. BO T he Positivus festival is easily accessible from all over Europe with airBaltic to Riga. It is only about 100 km away from Latvia’s capital city and can be reached by car along Highway E67 (the Via Baltica) or through the Positivus shuttle bus service from the Riga city centre. Positivus Festival 2012 tickets are on sale now and priced at only 52 EUR for a two-day pass (including camping). vintage stands. Those, who wish to enjoy remarkable artists without experiencing the hassle and mass crowds of the monster Fatboy Slim, Mark Ronson & the Business Intl., Moby, Pete Doherty, Muse, Hurts, OK GO and many more. Tickets are available online at www.positivusfestival.com/lv/biletes-1/, www.eufest.com and www.positivusfestival.com/en/. www.positivusfestival.com In association with www.anothertravelguide.com | Publicity photos Yoko Ono, Smile 2010 London Fly to London with airBaltic from €75 London 2012 Festival June 21 – September 9 As the venue for the 2012 Summer Olympic Games, London is one of this year’s top destinations. Aside from hosting the world’s most prestigious sports contest, London is also holding a monumental Cultural Olympiad, which culminates with the London 2012 Festival. It begins on June 21, exactly four weeks before the launching of the sports Olympics. As part of the festival’s events, the Barbican will be hosting the largest retrospective to date of works by the legendary German choreographer and director Pina Bausch (June 6 – July 9), with 10 separate dance performances that will be presented by the Tanztheater Wuppertal Pina Bausch, together with dancers from a variety of other world cities, including Istanbul, Hong Kong, Tokyo and Rio de Janeiro. Under the auspices of the Cultural Olympiad, and for the first time in its history, the World Shakespeare Festival will feature all of the famous dramaturge’s plays, which will be performed in 37 different languages. On July 19, the British Museum will unveil a major exhibition titled Staging the World, with research and interpretations on the 17th-century world as 18 / AIRBALTIC.COM Serpentine Gallery Pavilion 2012 Designed by Herzog & de Meuron & Ai Weiwei Shakespeare might have seen it. It also explores the role of the playhouse – a novelty at the time – as a window to the world outside London. The exhibition will be open until November 25. Meanwhile, the Serpentine Gallery will showcase an extensive retrospective of works by celebrated artist Yoko Ono (June 19 – September 9), emphasising her important influence on contemporary art and cinema. One of the highlights will be #smilesfilm, a large-scale three gigantic, 30-metre-wide underground oil cisterns, which had stood empty for three decades, will become an exhibition space for “living art”, installations and performances. These are only some of the events that will be taking place during London’s Cultural Olympiad. For further information about the city’s cultural program for this year, check out the Olympiad’s home page. www.london2012.com/cultural-olympiad © 2012, by Herzog & de Meuron and Ai Weiwei project that features images of smiling people from all across the planet. London 2012 continues the established tradition of inviting famous local artists to design Olympic posters. Among this year’s poster authors are Martin Creed, Tracey Emin and Criss Ofili. On June 1, the annual summer pavilion at the Serpentine Gallery in Kensington Gardens opens its doors until October 14. This year’s pavilion has been jointly designed by the Swiss architects’ bureau Herzog & de Meuron and the Chinese artist and dissident Ai Weiwei. Both parties had previously collaborated in the design of the Beijing National Stadium, which was built to host the previous Olympic Games in 2008. As the twelfth summer pavilion to be erected at the Serpentine Gallery, the new construction is highly ambitious and unusual. For one, it has an archaeological aspect to it, taking visitors beneath the Serpentine’s lawn to explore the hidden history of its previous pavilions. Eleven columns characterising each past pavilion and a twelfth column representing the current structure will support a floating platform roof 1.4 metres above the ground. The multifunctional platform will be covered with a thin layer of water, reflecting the sky above and serving as a venue for various performances. London 2012 will also pay special tribute to Alfred Hitchcock, the godfather of British thrillers. From August to October, 58 of his films will be screened at various movie theatres in London, including nine restored early silent movies at the BFI Southbank. On July 18 – ten days before the opening ceremonies of the Summer Olympics – the Tate Modern will unveil a new project named Tank. Over the course of a 15-week-long art festival, © Yoko Ono DETAILS / EUROPEAN EVENTS 201 Brivibas str., Riga DETAILS / EUROPEAN EVENTS Brussels Fly to Brussels with airBaltic from €65 Summer of Photography / June 14 – September 16 The photography biennale at Brussels’ Centre for Fine Arts Paris Fly to Paris with airBaltic from €89 Newly remodelled Palais de Tokyo After a ten-month-long reconstruction, the Palais de Tokyo is once again open to the public, in time to mark the tenth anniversary of the establishment of the Site de la création contemporaine in its West Wing. The Palais de Tokyo was originally built during the 1930s and is currently Europe’s largest contemporary art space. In some places, the space’s industrial interior looks as if it is still under construction, with exposed ceilings, bare columns, partially painted concrete surfaces and a monumental installation hanging from the ceiling in the lobby – as if indicating that the Palais de Tokyo lies in a continuing process of creative change, which is not set to cease any time soon. 13, avenue du Président-Wilson www.palaisdetokyo.com Vienna (BOZAR) now seems to have become an established tradition and is taking place for the fourth time this year. The central event of this biennale is the Sense of Place: European Landscape Photography exhibition, which features 160 photographs by 40 contemporary photographers from the 27 member states of the European Union. The exhibition is being presented thematically in three sections (Northern Europe, Central Europe and the Mediterranean region), in accordance with the geographical location of each snapshot – providing an overview of European landscapes as a whole, while highlighting the uniqueness of each country and its people. Centre for Fine Arts (BOZAR) Ravensteinstraat / Rue Ravenstein 23 www.summerofphotography.be Fly to Vienna with airBaltic from €95 MQ Summer of Fashion / June 14 – September 16 Vienna’s Museum Quarter (MQ – MuseumsQuartier) is gearing up for a hot Summer of Fashion, hosting exhibitions, fashion shows, workshops, performances and other fashion-related activities all season long. Two major fashion exhibitions open on June14 in two separate museums. At the MUMOK museum of modern art, Reflecting Fashion explores the interplay between art and fashion from the beginning of modernism to the present. The Technosensual exhibition at quartier21 will be devoted to future fashion and its relationship with modern technologies. It features various novelties and innovations (such as sensors and LEDs) that may one day become regular features in everyday clothing. In order to promote Vienna as a swinging metropolis and in cooperation with the Architecture Museum, experts and insiders are taking visitors along special architecture, fashion and design routes, highlighting the latest trends in these fields. One might be led to Vienna’s 6th District, for example, where a number of small businesses have come up with some unusual ideas for making money. Museumsplatz 1 | www.mqw.at DETAILS / REVIEW Text by Pauls Bankovskis | Publicity photos Albert Camus. Solitude & Solidarity. Edited by Catherine Camus, Edition Olms, 2012 The idea of issuing a coffee-table photo album in honour of a world-famous writer and philosopher would probably be dismissed by academics as unbecoming to such a great intellectual as Albert Camus. This latest publication, however, has been lovingly put together by Catherine Camus, the daughter of the renowned Nobel Prize winner, French Resistance activist, dramaturge, journalist and theatre director. While numerous biographies have previously been released about Albert Camus, none can quite compare to the texts and photos in this album, which depict the course of his brief life — starting with a poverty-stricken childhood in Algiers and ending with a premature death in a car accident in France at the age of 46 in 1960. Le Havre (the Criterion Collection) Directed by Aki Kaurismäki (2011) Regina Spektor. What We Saw from the Cheap Seats Sire Records, 2012 American composer, pianist and singer Regina Spektor recently released her sixth studio album in a genre that music critics have called antifolk, and which is said to have originated in New York’s East Village. Spektor first drew public acclaim in 2006, when she posted a video clip of herself in Youtube. Not long after, she was singing in front of US President Barak Obama and his wife Michelle. At the end of the performance, the First Lady stood up to give Spektor a standing ovation and the rest, as they say, is history. Spektor’s songs have something to say to each listener, and are sung in a voice that seems strangely primal and familiar. Best-known for the Match Factory Girl, Kaurismäki tells touching stories in films that exude a reserved sense of humour. He usually relies on trusted actors, whom he repeatedly recasts in his successive films. Last year’s production is perhaps the most cosmopolitan and “European” of his works. At the centre of Le Havre, whose events take place in the French port city of the same name, is Marcel Marx (André Wilms), a quiet and modest family man who makes a living as a shoe-shiner, and who bides his free time at a local bar. His life changes when he meets a young boy named Idrissa (Blondin Miguel), who has illegally entered the country from Africa and who is being pursued by the French authorities. Suffice it to say that Kaurismäki has once again filmed a warm-hearted story for grown-ups. By the way, did you know that the tango is one of the most popular dances in Finland? Text by Adam Jacot de Boinod, author of The Meaning of Tingo, published by Penguin Books | Illustration by Inga Briede bufferbiertje (Dutch) the beer that is standing next to the beer that you’re drinking and that serves as a buffer or backup, in case you finish drinking your beer before you have a chance to get the barman’s attention and buy another drink (literally, buffer beer). The Meaning of Tingo is a compilation of extraordinary words and expressions from around the world that have no equivalent in English. Adam Jacot de Boinod’s passion is scouring the planet for language oddities and every month, Baltic Outlook features one of the many amusing terms that he has come across in his travels. DETAILS / FIVE PLACES Text by Ieva Nora Firere | Illustration by Inga Briede Fly to Bergen with airBaltic from €89 > 1 Kaffemisjonen While the new Norwegian tradition of lightly roasting coffee beans is gaining ground, one should still bear in mind that a good cup of coffee rarely applies to the breakfast buffet at your hotel. Start out by heading to the spot that has too many barista awards to fit them into its reserved, Scandinavian interior. The coffee champions behind the bar are from various countries, giving the place an international feel. As a Sicilian-born fishmonger subsequently told me at the local fish market, Bergen has such an wide mix of residents from so many different places, that you have to put in a special effort to make Norwegian friends. Kaffemisjonen offers a very special atmosphere with very special coffee. Øvre Korskirkealmenningen 5 Hours: Mon.-Fri. 07:30-20:00, Sat.-Sun. 10:00-18:00 > 2 Bryggen No matter how crowded, the world heritage site of Bryggen is a charming piece of history. It’s an amazing, though rotting and sinking monument to the medieval era, when Bergen was a Hanseatic trade city. Wandering along the harbour settlement on your own can be magic enough. However, allowing an hour for the 24 / AIRBALTIC.COM is conveniently sized, permitting you to get a good overview of its features in just one hour of walking, one should not miss the bird’s-eye perspective at Mt. Ulriken. A blue tourist doubledecker bus runs from the fish market to the Ulriken cable car base station, while the restaurant at the summit serves a lamb burger and other landmarks of civilization. The pristine wilderness up at the top leaves a pleasant Nordic aftertaste. Many well-marked hiking trails start from up there. Cable car runs from 09:00 – 21:00 | www.ulriken.no > 5 Dinner at Hanne på Høyden > 4 Mt. Ulriken To be short, Hanne på Høyden is a must. It’s more than just a restaurant, relying entirely on Norwegian produce and importing only salt, sugar and coffee. A short walk from the historic centre of Bergen, its chefs treat their food with love and let Mother Nature dictate their haute cuisine rules. The small restaurant is run by a team of five, with the award-winning chef Hanne Frosta (Norway’s Kitchen Chef of the Year in 2006) at the helm. The small and dependable suppliers are local fishermen, farmers and hunters. About 80% of the menu here is fish, with another considerable part consisting of edible items found in the Norwegian wilderness. I had never eaten so many sprouts, flowers and berries in one dinner, complementing and decorating the fish and game to perfection. As an additional teaser, the chefs are brewing their own beers on site. Like Rome, Bergen is a city surrounded by seven mountains. And even though the city Fosswinckelsgate 18. Booking at (+47) 55323432 Hours: Mon.–Sat. 11:30–22:00 (bar closes at 24:00) > 3 Boat tour Although the Sognefjord and Hardangerfjord – Norway’s deepest and most stunning fjords that enclose Bergen from the north and the south – offer truly stunning scenery, they aren’t an option if you are short of time. If you can’t visit the fjords but still want to breathe in the fragrant air of the North Sea and feel a maritime breeze blowing in your hair, then take a boat tour of the harbour, which lasts a bit less than an hour. The boat departs daily at 14:30 from the fish market. Tickets can be purchased at the tourist information office or at the pier. www.whitelady.no Special thanks to Roger Norum, Kristin Modalsli Sand and Linn Kjos Falkenberg Bergen Bryggens and Hanseatic museums will answer many, if not all the questions that might arise and will let you appreciate how much effort it takes to keep the 62 wooden buildings from falling apart. Although the mighty façade of the Bryggens Museum (Dreggsalm. 3, open daily from 10:00– 16:00) rather reflects the aesthetics of the 1970s, inside it’s all about history that extends back to the 11th century. Speaking of which, the Hanseatic Museum at the other end of Bryggen will let you almost breathe the same air that the merchants were breathing back in 16th the century. The cold, the darkness and their tiny beds make the past centuries almost palpable. DETAILS / PEOPLE Text by ElIna Ruka | Publicity photos Explore the world in a cup of coffee Baristas Tim Wendelboe (left) and Tim Varney For the past five years, Norwegian Tim Wendelboe and Australian Tim Varney have been running an increasingly renowned coffee business in Grünerløkka, the creative quarter of Oslo Besides sharing the same name, the two Tims Fly to Oslo with airBaltic from €30 www.timwendelboe.no 26 / AIRBALTIC.COM fruits and florals. Finally, to bring out the best of the also have a consummate passion for coffee. Both are coffee beans, the drink must be served properly. That internationally acclaimed baristas, and it would not means that the water must be heated to the correct be an exaggeration to say that their espresso bar and temperature and poured in the right amount, while the roastery – named after the first Tim – has coffee beans must be properly ground and played a leading role in promoting the use of apportioned in accordance with the chosen coffee in Scandinavia. Good coffee preparation method. While Tim Wendelboe has gone off on a starts with In order to offer the best possible coffee, spring trip to Australia, Korea and Guatemala multiple Norwegian and world barista a fantastic to find new coffee-growing partners and champion Tim Wendelboe has travelled to soil and deliver seminars, his business partner Tim every continent except for Antarctica in the a good Varney stays in charge at the roastery. He is search for the best coffee beans. His travel elevation destinations have included Brazil, Bolivia, tasting some coffee beans that were roasted a week earlier and trying to establish how to Colombia, Panama, Costa Rica, El Salvador, improve their flavour still further. Honduras, Guatemala, India, Australia, Kenya, “Good coffee starts with a fantastic soil and a good Ethiopia and Burundi. There Wendelboe and his team elevation. Then the farmers have to look after their source farmers who not only grow good coffee, but plants and pick the right cherries. And then the coffee who are also ready to improve it still further. Tim has to be correctly processed,” says Varney. Incorrect Wendelboe places great importance on sustainable roasting can ruin the coffee – if it is roasted too lightly farming practices and transparency. Varney admits that or too darkly, the coffee won’t taste good. Most retailers things have not always gone smoothly. One grower around the world sell heavily roasted coffee, which in Colombia ran off from his farm with his sister-in-law imparts heavy, bitter, smoky and roasted flavours. and the operation fell apart completely. On another However, coffee beans also harbour various tastes and occasion, a coffee shipment was stolen at a port aromas that can be reminiscent of berries, nuts, citrus in Kenya. DETAILS / PEOPLE Coffee roasting Back at the espresso bar, which also serves as a training centre, both Tims also work to implement an additional goal – educating both the public and professionals about the fine art of coffeemaking. Varney says that coffee- and wine-tasting share certain similarities. Like wine, coffee can offer a nuanced bouquet of aromas and flavours, yet most people know their wines much better than their coffees. They will probably find it easy to name three different varieties of wine, but might be hard-pressed to do the same with coffee. Also, people tend to make mistakes in preparing their coffee, by drinking it too hot, for example, of by keeping it for too long. Freshly ground coffee should be consumed within two weeks of its roast date. People also tend to think that the best coffee comes from the wrong places, such as Italy, which has fallen behind in quality. Italians are rather good coffee roasters and blenders, and Italy still leads the way in espresso machine technology though. Norwegians are refined coffee drinkers, says Varney, as most of them have a filter coffee brewer at home, they drink a lot of coffee and they drink it black, which is how you can best appreciate it, at least when talking of specialty coffee. However, the staff at Tim Wendelboe won´t gasp in dismay if you ask for milk and sugar. After all, the cappuccino is one of the three required drinks at any barista competition. That’s why – just as with their coffee – the two Tims are stocked with the best organic milk they could find, from Røros, a distant town close to the Swedish border in the middle part of Norway. BO OUTLOOK / RETRO Sculpted beauty Thirty-five years after its creation, the porcelain Paperbag vase remains as popular as ever 30 / AIRBALTIC.COM Text by Evija PuKe-Jansone | Publicity photo The Rosenthal Paperbag is objects as wrinkled paper just one of several iconic bags, and to reveal this interior objects by Finnish beauty to others. designer Tapio Wirkkala From a distance, the (1915-1985). Others include vase really does look like the leaf-like Kantarelli glass a wrinkled paper bag, vase (Iittala) and the Ultima and the flowers in it seem Thule series of glass bowls, almost out of place, until pitchers and drinking glasses one realizes up close that (also by Iittala), whose everything is as it should textured surface structure be. The vase continues to was inspired by melting be manufactured in white spring ice in and various shades Lapland. of brown, much Practically every like the old paper From a item that Wirkkala bags that many distance, designed looked modern-day adults the vase like it had been were familiar with really does in their childhood. sculpted by hand, and in a sense, it look like a It also comes in had, for before various sizes and wrinkled turning his talents paper bag wrinkle patterns. to design, Wirkkala Nowadays, paper is made his living as once again making a sculptor. The selfa comeback as an taught designer remained environmentally friendly a sculptor at heart until form of packaging for the end of his life, bringing homemade products, widespread international enhancing the Paperbag’s recognition to Finland’s timeless appeal. post-war design school and Wirkkala’s design pearl garnering several dozen has become a favoured prestigious awards, including collectors’ item, with some a number of Grand Prix prizes enthusiasts owning dozens at the Milan Trienniale. of Paperbags, each slightly During his design career, different from the other – Wirkkala cooperated with a just like real paper bags, number of manufacturing which never share the exact enterprises, including the same wrinkle marks. The Italian Venini Glassworks. most valuable items are However, his most lengthy the oldest models, whose collaboration lasted for authenticity is attested to 30 years with the German by a Rosenthal seal and the porcelain-maker Rosenthal. year of manufacture on the The Paperbag vase was bottom of the item. The Wirkkala’s most successful vase can be bought through product and remains the various internet selling most widely sold design sites (such as eBay, amazon, object by Rosenthal. finnishdesignshop and The Paperbag highlighted finnstyle) at prices that range Wirkkala’s ability to see from about 20 to 175 USD, in beauty in everything, even accordance with the model’s in such mundane everyday size and age. BO DETAILS / DESIGN Gents’ essentials The clean and minimalist lines of the Scandinavian-born shaving kit will add timeless elegance to any man’s grooming Text by Ieva Nora Firere | Publicity photo Set Shaving kit by Lovisa Wattman for Iris Hantverk consists of a soft concrete shaving dish, shaving soap, and a traditional maple brush with badger hair bristles. Born a decade ago, the set somehow possesses the necessary agelessness that allows it to be categorized as slow design. “Perhaps the function is a bit oldfashioned, but I hope the shape is timeless and lasting,” says Lovisa. Philosophy Iris Hantverk is part of the Swedish Society for Visually Impaired. “Visually impaired have by tradition been working with the brush binding craft. This has given the possibility to make very nicely crafted products,” says Lovisa emphasizing that the production process does not differ much from the way it was conducted in the 19th century. Today the concrete part of the set is produced in Sweden, while soap and brush comes from craftsmen in Germany. “The identity of the company fits very well with my ideal as a designer and consumer. Their things are long lasting –materialwise, functionally and esthetically. No new items are added just for the sake of a new season. New products are added, when Iris Hantverk feels it will fill a gap, function better in production or when the customer uses it.” from the prestigious University College of Arts, Crafts and Design in Stockholm and the Aarhus School of Architecture in Denmark, and works with glass, stoneware, wood, stainless steel and concrete. Aside from her Iris Hantverk contribution, Lovisa has also designed products for Höganas, Sagaform and Ikea among others. Design “As a customer I would rather choose carefully and buy something that I’m willing to care for and live with for a long time. So it’s natural for me to think that way when I’m working too. I like it when things work, and when the understanding of how to use it is immediate. The lid holds the brush lying down, this will keep the brush better. The two “cuts” on the brush make a good grip, and follows the overall shape. When given the project of designing a shaving kit I also wanted to use as few parts and details as possible. It all adds up to this given design.” Lovisa has worked with the combination of concrete and wood in her industrial design before, too. She does not find the pairing contradictory, rather functional. Concrete withstands water and, in a mold, allows easily make the planned design. Wood on the other hand is pleasant to feel and has had long history in the craft of brush binding. BO Designer Since 1999, when Lovisa Wattman Industridesign was launched, Lovisa lives in Stockholm. She’s graduated 32 / AIRBALTIC.COM Available in Iris Hantverk shops in Stockholm and various design stores all around the world, including the online stores of Mjolk and Funkis. DETAILS / STYLE Styling by Agnese NarNicka, One Wolf | Photo by Gatis Gierts, f64 Sunny walking Bright colours and accents framed by the classical lines of moccasins – for long and sunny strolls at the start of the summer At Charles & Keith / 29.99 LVL ARA at Euroskor / 63.50 LVL At Tommy Hilfiger in the Galerija Centrs / 94 LVL ARA at Euroskor / 63.50 LVL At Tamaris in the Galerija Centrs / 44.99 LVL At Tamaris / 44.99 LVL Addresses in Riga: Charles & Keith Kr. Barona iela 44 Euroskor Tērbatas iela 16/18 Galerija Centrs Audēju iela 16 34 / AIRBALTIC.COM YOUR NEXT DESTINATION Text by Una Meistere, www.anothertravelguide.com Photos CORBIS AND by Ainars Erglis Budapest The chameleon on the Danube 36 / AIRBALTIC.COM YOUR NEXT DESTINATION Bad luck, somebody has already taken the Anothertravelguide brochure about Budapest, but don’t worry, all the information is also available at ANOTHERTRAVELGUIDE.COM in cooperation with airBaltic. BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 37 YOUR NEXT DESTINATION The CET, a new architectural landmark in the city Hungarian capital had undergone a radical change when I returned – it has transformed itself into what could be called Europe’s most promising future capital for bicyclists There are cities to which you can return as to an old friend – relishing the fact that deep down, nothing has changed, or at least not changed too much. Then there are cities that resemble a series of mysteries, in which no one novel gives you the slightest hint of the twists and turns that will thrill you in the next. I’d last been in Budapest only a year ago, but the Hungarian capital had undergone a radical change when I returned – it has transformed itself into what could be called Europe’s most promising future capital for bicyclists. Both what you see in the streets and the statistics bear witness to the fact that bicycles are the fastest growing form of transportation here. The metropolis has swiftly risen to tenth place among the most bicycle-friendly cities on earth. A centralized bicycle rental system called BUBI is expected to start functioning next summer. The city has a EuroVelo bike path running 30 kilometres along both banks of the Danube. Older bike paths have been spruced up and many new ones are being created. The path along Andrássy út, the elegant boulevard connecting the City Park and the Chain Bridge, has recently been restored. Traffic rules are also friendly to cyclists – you’re allowed to ride against traffic on one-way streets, ride down the middle of the roadway, and stop in front of cars at red lights. Bicycles, in short, are all the rage in Budapest, and as with any trendy thing, there’s a whole scene growing up around this latest fashion. Rental places, workshops and stores have multiplied wildly, with designers riding the wave. Among the most popular is Bagaboo, a small company creating bags for bicyclists. Those that bear the work of 38 / AIRBALTIC.COM The Freedom Bridge the Kenya-born artist Marcus Goldson, long a resident of Budapest, are considered especially stylish, featuring humorous illustrations of urban life. Local fashion designer Zsófi Geréby is behind Urban Legend, a local clothing brand aimed at cyclists. Day trips outside the city limits are also heavily promoted. One wonderful possibility is Szentendre, a postcard-perfect village renowned for its historic architecture and cobblestone streets, only 20 kilometres from the city centre. If you plan to visit Balaton, one of the most famous lakes in the world and the premier destination for Budapest residents in warm weather, there’s a 220-kilometre path winding around it. The northern route is hilly and will pose a challenge if you’re not in shape, but if you can hack it, then you’ll be rewarded at remarkable wineries. From June 13 to 17, the traditional Balaton Bike Fest will take place here. Participants can choose from routes of varying difficulty, catering to diverse interests. Further information at www.balatonbikefest.com The whale on the banks of the Danube Bicycles are not the only fresh expression on Budapest’s everchanging face. Recently, in addition to the Baroque, Neoclassical, Romantic, Eclectic, Art Nouveau, Bauhaus and Neo-Baroque architecture that the city is justifiably famous for, contemporary design and architecture are blossoming. One of the most notable blossoms of late is the Capsula store on Andrássy út. It’s worth going there, if not for the crème de la crème of mass-produced luxury brands that you’ll find in any major city (Tom Ford, Givenchy, D&G, YSL, etc.). The interior was designed by the local architects Sándor Göcsei and Enikő Korompay. It’s a virtuoso attempt to resolve the difficult question of creating a unified space for a multitude of eclectic brands that each try to preserve their own face. The space is dominated by luminous black-and-white high-tech elements, the high contrast diluted by fluid lines and flowing forms, resulting in a remarkably dynamic lightness. The logo was also designed by the architects – an “A” in the shape of a teardrop, which is featured on one of the exterior walls, allowing for the display of designer shoes. The reflective surfaces and well-designed lighting accentuate the effect, making the display reminiscent of an art gallery rather than a typical place to acquire the latest fashions. YOUR NEXT DESTINATION View of the Hungarian Parliament Building from the Buda Castle The Matthias Church of the Buda Castle district Another new apparition is the CET, a centre for entertainment and culture. It’s not actually open yet, and the precise date of its unveiling is still unknown. CET is the abbreviation for “Central European Time” – the centrality of Budapest to Europe is part of the emphasis. In Hungarian, “cet” means “whale” – and that’s how locals refer to it. It goes leaping with the flow, looking in the direction of the Danube, and that makes it even more noticeable. You can best see it from the Buda side of the river, passing the Elisabeth Bridge in the direction of the Gellért Hotel. Alternatively, take a boat ride on one of the many tourist boats plying the Danube. Though the CET promises to become a new symbol of the city, as intended, its current appearance evoked Sleeping Beauty. The place seems finished, but is still uninhabited. It was supposed to be opened last year. The architect, Kas Oosterhuis of the Netherlands, commented upon the delays with unconcealed bitterness in the architecture and design magazine Frame: “The biggest difference between the CET project and the work we do at home has to do with building permits. Hungarian authorities ask for ten times more drawings and paperwork – and they want 40 copies of each document. The difference is due to Hungary’s highly fragmented building process, which encompasses countless departments and subdivisions.” YOUR NEXT DESTINATION Built between 1874 and 1877, the West Railway Station was designed by August de Serres and the Eiffel Company of Paris It’s said that there were more than 500 cafés in the city in the late 19th century A similarly haunting place – at least at the time of this writing – is the Racz Hotel and Bath, also meant to be a fresh pearl in the cityscape. Planned as a luxury hotel and spa built around historic baths that date to 1572, still preserving a dome from the Turkish period and one of the ancient pools, it also includes three pools from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, designed by Miklos Ybl, who was also the architect of the inimitable Opera House. The grand vaults of the baths are visible from the exterior, thanks to the glass envelope of the contemporary structure. The restoration and construction were completed in 2010 – but even now, the new hotel isn’t yet open. Theoretically, the opening will at last take place this summer. The people of Budapest don’t necessarily believe in that promise, though. Cynicism, pessimism, a lack of faith and an intense scepticism are part of the dark side of the national character, as locals will tell you. Both distant and recent history might be to blame – disappointment is nearly the norm. Wandering around in the lovely streets of the Hungarian capital, 40 / AIRBALTIC.COM A part of the Great Synagogue building however, this is difficult to see – the ability to conjure up an alluring, dramatic façade is the bright side. Hungarians have an incredible talent for making anything and everything spellbinding. The ‘ruin pubs’ phenomenon Like Vienna, Budapest is a city of cafés. Its famed historic cafés can still evoke a reflection of the lustre of the Austro-Hungarian Empire’s past. It’s said that there were more than 500 cafés in the city in the late 19th century. Under communism, the regime looked askance at the good life and many were closed. Nowadays they’re back with a vengeance, giving Budapest a kind of carefree air that makes Hungary’s capital a centre of old world joie de vivre. The current century, however, has added an entirely new phenomenon to the café scene – romkoscma, or ‘ruin pubs’, as they are known. In a decade, this inimitable phenomenon, with no real equal in any other European city, has become a kind of movement – the creation of cafés in abandoned buildings destined for demolition. You can find ruin pubs in derelict apartment buildings, shuttered cinemas and closed factories. These dilapidated structures get a fresh breath of life that allows them an alternative existence. There’s no facelift. The cobwebs might get swept out (with an emphasis on might), but otherwise – the space is utilized as is, making do with whatever is left of it. The tossed aside bouquet that is the site’s unique dereliction is merely supplemented with similarly discarded objects – the furnishings of former cinemas, cafeterias or shops, St. Stephen’s Basilica (Szent István-bazilika), Hungary’s Notre Dame or whatever trove might be unearthed in a forgotten cellar or in a grandmother’s attic. At first these places were popular mostly among younger people, but by now, almost everybody in Budapest has a favourite ruin pub. Over the years, the romkoscma have changed, too. They’re no longer just places to have a drink, since many of them host art exhibits, concerts, theatrical performances and diverse happenings. There are more than a dozen ruin pubs in Budapest at the moment. Most are in the 7th District, the old Jewish Quarter. Its bohemian atmosphere gets the area compared to Kreuzberg in Berlin. Geographically, this is the heart of the city – only a few minutes from the elegant boulevards. If you wander in unawares, however, you might get the feeling that you’ve fallen into a time warp. Buildings that preserve an aura of Habsburg ostentation stand cheek by jowl with the concrete monsters of imposed socialism. Here and there a “for sale” sign beckons next to a sealed window. The pulse of life and something outside time come together. Some of the older buildings look like nothing has touched them since the Second World War, or that nobody has been inside them since. This was indeed the site of the Jewish ghetto during the war. Crooked, cracked façades remind one of aristocratic faces fallen upon despair and doom, still giving glimpses of a forgotten glory. Wandering through this rather surreal landscape, you come upon a door with no visible sign. You feel that the gateway leads somewhere. You go in. You enter a courtyard. The courtyard likely leads to another courtyard. Then to yet another courtyard. These labyrinthine wanderings are without end – ruin pubs have no laws, no identifiable structure and no real association. They offer a space, and action takes place spontaneously within. All of them are similar in that they are kind of chaotic and always eclectic. The atmosphere of each, however, is wholly unique. The most legendary ruin pub is doubtless Szimpla Kert (Kazinczy u. 14; www.szimpla.hu), which means “simple garden.” Opened in 2001, it has shifted locations many a time. It’s been where it is now since 2004. This is hardly an unknown place, as it’s featured in Lonely Planet – a café where you’re as likely to hear loudly spoken American English as you are to hear Hungarian. Even so, the Szimpla is one of the most colourful ruin pubs and the location is unforgettable – in what was formerly an ornate building, now on the verge of collapse. The façade is already disappearing – only crumbling brick remains. Potted flowers on the practically non-existent balconies lend the place a ghostly but vibrant ambience. Tim Burton and Johnny Depp could have a surreal lunch here, and this could be a stage set. As in any ruin pub, the courtyard is centre stage. On the margins, there are various niches and diverse bars. A Trabant, the classic automotive relic of East Germany, considered one of the worst cars ever produced, has been turned into a table. Amid the courtyard’s chaos, it looks as BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 41 YOUR NEXT DESTINATION A lazy Sunday afternoon in a city square A view of St. Stephen’s Basilica from the narrow Lázár utca behind the opera though the car has accidentally been stranded here. Nothing, no matter how weird, seems out of place – a telephone handset is the knob to the door of the women’s room, but whether this is intentional design or whether the real knob was simply somehow lost is unknown. As in most ruin pubs, you can not only drink but also eat here. There are exhibits, movie festivals, and unpredictable, spontaneous performances. Once there, wander over to nearby Akacfa utza and check out Fogas ház (at No. 51) un Sufni G’art’N (at No. 47). The first address has gone beyond a ruin pub to become a real cultural centre, with important exhibits of local contemporary art. There’s cinema in the evenings. The second address is fresh. The interior is an odd work of art all by itself – one bar is composed of old picture frames, whilst another sports what appear to be retro meat grinders. It’s an experience, like the wall covered with Soviet-era TV sets and tennis rackets. Reading materials abound. A recently graduated conservatory student offers piano lessons to anyone of any ability. A little further in and you’ll come upon a weird room decorated with Oriental carpets, miniature hockey paraphernalia and a gigantic fish competing with an overturned bicycle hanging from the ceiling. Nothing here makes any sense at all, but you may finally realize that the YOUR NEXT DESTINATION There are more than a dozen ‘ruin pubs’ in Budapest at the moment The primary characteristic of a ruin pub is that it is ephemeral. They’re situated in places that can disappear, be sold, or suddenly restored ruin pub phenomenon doesn’t have to make sense. One thing you must know, though – the primary characteristic of a ruin pub is that it is ephemeral. They’re situated in places that can disappear, be sold, or suddenly restored. Or it could be that neighbours complain about their existence and the noise they generate. They could get shut down without notice. Then they go underground and perhaps pop up elsewhere. Some are only open in summer. Some all year round. Before you try to seek out a ruin pub, check www.ruinpubs.com for the latest news. Hollywood on the Danube Getting lost in the narrow, winding streets of Budapest, the feeling that you’ve been transported to a beautifully written decadent thriller never leaves you. The architecture, the light, the shadows, and the passing faces... it seems that everything here is a carefully composed scenario you stumbled into. Perhaps that’s why Budapest is a star of the silver screen, no matter YOUR NEXT DESTINATION Fogas Ház ruin pub Sufni G’art’N ruin pub what might be needed. In Alan Parker’s 1996 Evita, for instance, Budapest serves as Buenos Aires. In the 2011 thriller The Rite, starring Anthony Hopkins, it’s Rome. In The Steven Spielberg drama Munich from 2005, a most elegant Budapest artery pretends to be in Paris. When the Hollywood’s massive Raleigh Studios decided to colonize the environs of Budapest in 2010, everybody noticed. It’s now on the leading edge of European film studios. Among the films produced there so far, Monte Carlo, made last year, involved the construction of Monaco’s Hotel de Paris in replica. Thus, Budapest has already earned the moniker Hollywood on the Danube. It has battled with Prague, not so far away, and seems to have won. But it has also beaten out Paris, London and Sofia. Cost is a prime factor. Making The Borgias miniseries, starring Jeremy Irons, cost a lot less in Budapest than it would have in Rome, and the producers didn’t hide that fact. The roots of Hungarian cinema go as deeply as those of photography in Hungary – László Moholy-Nagy, André Kertész, Georges Brassaï, Lucien Hervé and Robert Capa all hail from here, and modern photography is unimaginable without them. But film, too, has a strong Hungarian presence, whether it’s the founder of Paramount Pictures, Adolph Zukor, or the director of the legendary movie Casablanca, Michael Curtiz. It’s in the air, and you can feel it. Budapest is not only one of the most photogenic cities on the planet. Budapest is a chameleon and a labyrinth. Getting lost here is sheer pleasure. Do it, and you may find a scenario of your own. View frOM DzinTAru prOspecT View frOM DzinTAru prOspecT, eVening. Luxury Boutique House Jurmala, Dzintaru prospect 32 MAin enTrAnce «THe HOMe». To reserve apartments: +371 27 477732 All the details on: www.thehome.lv YOUR NEXT DESTINATION Insider’s view A perfect day in Budapest Dorka Klim is a film producer, as well as well as one of the co-owners of Hip Homes Hungary – a small company dealing in the renting out of select luxury apartments. Born in Budapest, Klim lived for several years in Amsterdam and Buenos Aires – “great cities”, as she says herself – but she always wanted to return home. “Budapest is a very beautiful city. I live on the side of Buda, and every time I return from a trip, I have to cross a bridge. Most often I use the Elisabeth Bridge – from which the view of the city’s panorama is simply breathtaking.” Hip Homes Hungary came about spontaneously – on a summer’s evening by Lake Balaton, while drinking wine in the company of friends. “Many of my friends had wonderful flats, which for various different reasons, were standing empty. At the same time, we knew that Budapest was short on apartments – stylish and comfortable ones, the kinds that we stayed in ourselves when travelling the world over. And that’s how we came up with the idea.” Currently, Hip Homes Hungary has nine luxury apartments at its disposal in various parts of the city. They are, undeniably, among the best accommodations that Budapest has to offer. Each apartment has its own signature design and story behind it, embodying the amazing assemblage of feelings that make you feel like a local after having spent just a few days in the city. When asked how she would spend an ideal day in Budapest, Klim laughingly responds that this would only be possible on the off chance that she didn’t have any prior commitments. “I’d wake up early and start the day with a session at a spa. It’s best to do this right in the morning. I’d probably go with friends. And the spa would definitely be the Rudas Bath, one of the most authentic and oldest thermal spas in Budapest. I think we’d spend twoand-a-half or three hours there; then we’d have breakfast. Somewhere on Andrassy Boulevard, like Két Szerecsen – one of my favourite cafés. It’s not far from the opera and Nagymező utca, the street that is often called the Broadway of Budapest – from the days when it was lined with theatres, taverns, public and private clubs, even bordellos. There still are five theatres there, just 50 metres apart from one another. But it’s just as likely that I’d breakfast right here on the Buda side, which also has a lot of great cafés – places where the locals go. Like the Tranzit Art Café (Bukarest u. 3-9, www.trazitcafe.com), which used to be an old bus station. It regularly holds all sorts of exhibitions, concerts, and film and literary evenings. A wonderful, relaxing atmosphere with hammocks put up outside. Afterward, I’d go to an art exhibition, for instance, at the National Gallery; or to a newlyopened seasonal show – either in a gallery or set-up outdoors. Excellent art projects are also exhibited in the city parks during the summer months. If it was a weekend, an obligatory stop would be two of Budapest’s most colourful art and design markets – WAMP and Gouba. The first is held once a month (either at Millenáris or Erzsébet Square; upcoming dates are June 10, July 15 and August 12; www.wamp.hu), and it’s a great place to introduce yourself to everything that is new and popular on Hungary’s fashion and design scene. Clothes, accessories, various interior furnishings – WAMP is an ideal place to find gifts, or for just an inspirational stroll. Gouba, on the other hand, is Budapest’s version of Portobello Road in London. It happens every Sunday from April through October (www.gouba.hu). It’s in the 7th district – the historic Jewish Quarter – in the courtyard of Gozsdu Udvar, between the streets of Király utca and Dob utca. The market is situated in a long, corridor-like passageway, which is also very interesting from an architectural standpoint. It has a colourful mix of items made by young designers, as well as books, an antique shop, cafés and eateries. You can spend an hour or even two here, shopping and having coffee. Later, on a sunny day, I’d spend a few hours simply lounging about in a park. I’d just lay down in the grass and read. In the evening, I’d go out for a nice dinner. It’s been ages since I’ve been to Café Kör (Sas utca 17, www.cafekor.com). It’s a great bistro, loved by the locals and not far from St. Stephen’s Basilica; always full of people, and special in that it’s one of the few places left in the city that doesn’t accept credit cards. However, there’s just as good a chance that I’d like to try some Asian cuisine, which is very popular in Budapest right now. I’d close the evening with a visit to a bar – maybe one of the ruin pubs. There’s a new one opening every season, but the good old Szimpla Kert (Kazinczy Street 14, www.szimpla.hu), the first to start the trend of the ‘ruin pubs’, is still alive and kicking. It also serves as an informal cultural centre.” BO Fly to Budapest with Direct flights from Riga starting from EUR 79 From Scandinavia and Eastern Europe via Riga starting from EUR 79 Earn 1-10 BalticMiles Points per each Euro spent on flight tickets BalticMiles partners in Budapest: airBaltic, LSG Sky Chefs, Avis, Sixt airBalticCard, Language Direct, Worldhotels, Grand City Hotels, Radisson Blu OUTLOOK / EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE IN ASSOCIATON WITH INSIDEFUTBOL.COM The shoe salesman who wasn’t a horse Arrigo Sacchi, ormer head coach of the Italian national football team 50 / AIRBALTIC.COM OUTLOOK / EXCLUSIVE During the 20th century, many Italian writers worked hard to describe their country’s character through literary works, one of the most influential being Il Gattopardo by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa. The story was set in Sicily and stereotypically presented Italians as opportunists, individualists and unreliable. However, other writers such as Italo Calvino took a fresh look at the bootshaped country, depicting a different type of Italy in Il barone rampante. There, a young man decides to live at the top of a tree against the wishes of his family, imposing his vision of life and his personality upon others. He uses his capacity to cajole and convince to show the world that his is the right way to live. In footballing terms, legendary manager Arrigo Sacchi is more like an Italo Calvino creation than anything dreamed up by Tomasi di Lampedusa, with obsessiveness and intransigence permeating every facet of his life. Arrigo Sacchi was born 66 years ago in Fusignano, not far from Ravenna in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. When we met him, he stressed – as usual – that he had but a few minutes to talk. However, when asked to comment about the game of football, his eyes brightened and in the end, he had quite a bit to say. Sacchi was nothing less than a revolutionary in the sport and the consequences of his revolution still ripple across today’s football landscape, influencing coaches across the world. He says that he has never believed in any other formula than hard work, passion and a strong work ethic. “I was never a first class player,” he stressed, “but as I have always said, in order to be a good jockey you don’t need to have been a horse first. “I am a perfectionist and have always asked a lot from my players, but I am sure that they have appreciated my passion for the job. Sometimes people considered me to be obsessed, but I was simply absorbed by my work and this is probably the only secret of my success. From the moment I had my first experience on the coach’s bench at Bellaria Igea Marina [ed.: not far from Sacchi’s hometown of Fusignano] to my work with Parma and AC Milan, I thought about football theories and tactics almost 24 hours a day.” Hard work is more than an obsession for Sacchi, in stark contrast to the laid-back Italian stereotype. On a visit to AC Milan’s training camp, known as Milanello, an employee revealed that “players like Carlo Ancelotti were frightened by Sacchi’s training methods, especially by an invention known as the ‘gabbia’.” That was an infamous pitch covered by a cage on all four sides and on top, so that the ball would never leave the field of play. For Sacchi, it was essential to build strength in the legs, but for his players it was a symbol of toil. “And when Carlo became manager at Milan, he immediately decided to dismantle it.” Sacchi forged his tactical vision at a very young age, helped by frequent trips across Europe. “At first I was involved in the shoe business because my father owned a factory. My brother worked as a salesman throughout Europe, but at a very young age he died in a car accident, so my Arrigo Sacchi Born: 1 April 1946 Place of birth: Fusignano, Italy Teams managed: 1985 – 1987 Parma 1987 – 1991 Milan 1991 – 1996 Italy 1996 – 1997 Milan 1998 – 1999 Atlético Madrid 2001 Parma 2004 – 2005 Real Madrid (Director of Football) father asked me to take over the job. I was not enthusiastic about travelling through Europe to sell shoes, but thanks to those trips, I journeyed across Germany, Holland, Belgium and several other countries. Since I was really passionate about football, I went to watch games in all these countries. I discovered new ways of playing football. My vision of the game was shaped. Working as a shoe salesman was really important for my future career in football.” BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 51 OUTLOOK / EXCLUSIVE AC Milan on their return from Barcelona in 1989 after their win against Steaua Bucarest in the European Cup I asked Silvio Berlusconi to buy players who could advance my project. So we signed Carlo Ancelotti Total Football Indeed, he was fascinated by the football he saw during his travels and particularly by the style of the Dutch during the 1970s. The Netherlands were undergoing their own revolution, as the great Ajax side of Johan Cruyff changed the rules of the game together with the Dutch national team. The players ran faster and worked harder than anyone else, allowing the entire pitch to be covered. For Sacchi, these “mavericks from Holland” ushered in one of the most important shifts in football history. “They changed football from an individual to a collective game, inventing what is now known as Total Football. The next team to have changed the course of the game was, I must say quite immodestly, my own AC Milan, and now we have Barcelona, coached by my friend Pep Guardiola. He sent me a text message after the Champions League final at Wembley in 2011 [ed.: Barcelona beat Manchester United 3-1]. ‘Only you can understand what we have really done this evening.’ He wasn’t talking about the result, which was obviously fantastic, but more about how they achieved it and how they played in that final. Guardiola believes in playing a similar type of football to mine.” The year 1987 was key for Sacchi and fundamentally changed his career. He had been the coach of Parma, then a second division club, since 1985 and was working hard to make his team play a brand of Total Football. His players were now able to cover the pitch completely, in an attractive and attacking 4-4-2 formation. In September 1986, Parma visited AC Milan in an Italian Cup group stage match and, much to the establishment’s astonishment, won 1-0. Later in the competition the two teams met again and as before, Sacchi’s men triumphed by the same scoreline at Milan’s San Siro Stadium. Then they stopped the Serie A team with a goalless draw in Parma. That was enough for AC Milan president Silvio Berlusconi, in his first season as the club’s owner, to sack Nils Liedholm and, against all expectations, appoint the “little man OUTLOOK / EXCLUSIVE Some years ago, Mark Hughes said to me: ‘How did you convince Italian players to run forwards instead of backwards?’ from Fusignano”. And so it was that in 1987, a successful period for both Milan and Sacchi began. “I’ve been lucky in football because I have always had good presidents who played the same tune as me. For example, in my first spell at AC Milan, I asked Silvio Berlusconi to buy players who could advance my project. So we signed Carlo Ancelotti, who was the perfect midfielder for our team, and we bought Ruud Gullit and Marco van Basten, who introduced a new mentality into the side. At Milan, that mix between Italian and Dutch players was fantastic.” Sacchi is clear that without the faith and time afforded to him by Berlusconi, his revolution might have been nipped in the bud early on. “At Milan I had reason to thank the board because they always supported me from the very beginning. For example, in the first season, after losing at home against Fiorentina, Marco van Basten criticised me in the dressing room in front of all the other players. But the board trusted me and asked me to continue following my path. In the following match, at Cesena, I left Van Basten on the bench and when he asked me to explain why, I told him: ‘Well, Marco, I think you are very good tactically. So if you sit next to me on the bench, then you can help me avoid making mistakes in the match.’ That was only possible because Silvio Berlusconi and all the board trusted me.” After a difficult start, AC Milan won the Italian league, beating Diego Maradona’s Napoli in a crucial match in Naples. The victory was achieved in such an impressive manner that at the end of the game, the home crowd paid tribute to what they had just witnessed with a long period of applause for Sacchi and his team. It was a triumph perhaps even on a par with lifting the league trophy itself. “Some years ago, Mark Hughes [ed.: former Manchester City manager and Manchester United player] said to me: ‘How did you convince Italian players to run forwards instead of backwards? I was used to seeing Italian teams playing defensively, using the counter attack, but your teams played a different type of football.’ I still feel proud of what he said. We tried to change the mentality of Italian football and start a revolution, but we did not succeed because very few teams changed and played like us: using offensive football for the good of the game, not just to win. Although we were fiercely criticised in Italy, a lot of people abroad really appreciated our style of play.” No coincidence Many of those who played under Sacchi – household names like Carlo Ancelotti, Marco van Basten, Frank Rijkaard, Ruud Gullit and Roberto Donadoni – went on to become managers and took charge of some of the biggest teams in Europe. That OUTLOOK / EXCLUSIVE The Spanish have always had an advantage over the Italians in football. They have always seen it as fun must surely be no coincidence. Sacchi, however, is modest. “I don’t know if any of these coaches learned something from me, but I remember that all of them were good tactically when on the pitch. While they all have different mentalities regarding football, they also understood the importance of hard work, a positive mentality and a wonderful approach to the game. That has helped some of them to win championships and European Cups. I also managed Roberto Di Matteo in the Italian national team, and now he is the manager of a top team like Chelsea. He has yet another type of footballing mentality, but still believes in hard work and has a positive approach to his job, like the others.” Sacchi stayed at AC Milan for four seasons, winning one Italian league title, one Italian Super Cup, two European Cups, two European Super Cups and two Club World Cups. Then he moved to coach the Italian national team. In a land where every performance of the team is dissected, analysed and regurgitated for weeks after each game, he was heavily criticized. Despite an avalanche of comments, the tactician led Italy to the final of the 1994 World Cup in the USA, only losing on penalties against a Brazil team containing such legendary stars as Dunga, Romário and Bebeto. But five years at the helm of the Azzurri never saw Italy hit the heights that his Milan side had achieved, either measured by trophies or style of play. “After the World Cup final defeat to Brazil in 1994, I said during a FIFA conference that AC Milan [ed.: Sacchi’s old club won Serie A and the Champions League in the 1993/94 season] was stronger than the Italian national team and that maybe even Rimini, one of the first teams I coached, was stronger than Italy. International teams have been overtaken by clubs. Training players every day is different than seeing them only once in a while.” Following a brief and unsuccessful return to Milan, Sacchi moved to Spain in 1998 to manage Atlético Madrid, but chose to leave after just seven months. However, that period sparked a fascination with Spanish football that has endured. OUTLOOK / EXCLUSIVE • Wooden floors • Wooden terraces • Glues and varnishes • Oils and lacquers • Natural paints • Technical service This summer Sacchi will be cheering for Italy – even if he appreciates any team that plays the game in what for him is ‘the right way’ For 20 years, we have been a leading partner of architects, building companies and private homeowners. We offer you all kinds of wooden floor coverings, as well as products for their installation and maintenance. Whether you are planning to build a house, a restaurant or a shopping center, you will find everything that you need in our showrooms. Our technicians will help you to realize your wishes and assist you in all steps of your project. Trust the experts! BERLIN Ohlauer Straße 40, D-10999 Berlin Tel. (+49) 306100990 • info@abschliff.de HAMBURG Steilshooper Alee 49, D-22309 Hamburg Tel. (+49) 4063664632 • hamburg@abschliff.de RIGA A. Čaka iela 107, LV-1011 Riga Tel. (+371) 67843844 • info@abschliff.lv “The Spanish have always had an advantage over the Italians in football,” he admitted. “They have always seen it as fun. They have always played to score goals, but in the past they played the game individually. They had great individual players, but had difficulties when it came to mixing individuals together to produce great teams. I remember when we at AC Milan played Real Madrid at the end of the 1980s and the beginning of the 1990s. They had some wonderful players like Emilio Butragueño, Hugo Sánchez, Míchel and Manuel Sánchez, but we always beat them – and we were sure we would beat them because we played as a team and they played as great individuals. Now, thanks to Barcelona and Spain’s national team, the Spanish have started to play collectively and they can magnify the talent of their wonderful individuals.” For this reason, he sees Spain as the favourite for winning this summer’s Euro 2012, even if he thinks Vicente del Bosque’s world champions might face a problem also encountered by his friend Guardiola at Barcelona this year. “I think Spain is the best, but these players have recently won the European Championship and the World Cup, so we have to see if they have the same hunger for winning now. Obviously there are other great teams like Germany, Holland and Italy. However, the Spanish national team remains the best not only in Europe, but in the entire world.” There is little doubt about which team Sacchi will be cheering for this summer: Italy – even if he appreciates any team that plays the game in what for him is ‘the right way’. So far, the Italians are on right track. “I think Cesare Prandelli is doing an exceptional job with the Azzurri. He is changing the mentality, trying to encourage positive football and I think that for the first time, the Azzurri have the possibility to spearhead the game in the country. They can do very well at Euro 2012, despite the fact that they are in a tough group with Spain, Ireland and Croatia.” Sacchi may not be in the coach’s chair at present, but football still permeates into his very soul. He currently works with the Italian Football Federation on projects involving the country’s youth teams. He is also a pundit for Mediaset TV, a company owned by his mentor, the former Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi, and writes a weekly column for La Gazzetta dello Sport, the easily recognisable pink sports newspaper that shapes debate on Italy’s national game. As for Euro 2012, he excitedly assures us that he will be there. “I am not sure for which or how many matches, but I will most certainly be in Gdańsk on June 10 to see Italy play against Spain. I can’t miss that match by any means.” BO OUTLOOK / SPECIAL association with INSIDE FUTBOL, In England’s leading online football magazine PUBLICITY AND CORBIS PHOTOs Euro2012: 50 facts on the European Championship From June 8 to July 1, Europe’s best football teams vie for the continent’s coveted championship cup, which is awarded once every four years Gdansk, Poland S Greek wunderkind: It is a heavy burden to carry when you are compared to the world’s best player, Lionel Messi. However, attacking midfielder Sotiris Ninis seems to be unaffected. Dubbed the “Greek Messi”, he has impressed with his dribbling, shooting skills and vision. No wonder he became the youngest ever scorer for Greece at 18 years and 46 days, after netting on his debut against Cyprus on 19th May 2008. Last September, he scored a second. Can Ninis shine at Euro 2012? hifting Sands: Two of the Polish cities which will host matches at Euro 2012 did not actually belong to the country before the Second World War. Wrocław lay within pre-war Germany and was known as Breslau, while Gdańsk, a ‘free city’ with a mixed German and Polish population, was more recognisable by its German name of Danzig. This is also where the first shots of the Second World War were fired. Across the border, one of the Ukrainian host cities, Lviv, belonged to pre-war Poland, and was called Lwów (pronounced L-voov). Teutonic dominance: The Germans dominated the European Championships in the 1970s, winning in 1972 and 1980 and losing on penalties in the 1976 final – establishing themselves as European powerhouses in the process. As further evidence of their strength, they also boasted the top scorer in all three tournaments. In 1972, Gerd Müller netted five goals, Dieter Müller then struck four in 1976 and Klaus Allofs scored three in the 1980 finals. This success paved the way for triumphs at the 1990 World Cup and Euro 96. 60 / AIRBALTIC.COM G oing the distance: Five finals have gone to extra time. In 1960, the USSR beat Yugoslavia 2-1 and in 1968, the latter lost 2-0 to Italy in a replay after the original match ended 1-1. In 1996, Germany beat the Czech Republic 2-1, whilst France saw off Italy by the same scoreline four years later. The only showpiece to go to penalties was between Czechoslovakia and West Germany in 1976. And would you believe it, the masters of the shootout, Germany, lost. The Teutonic warriors haven’t suffered a defeat that way since. A nimal love: Czech international defender Tomá Hübschman of Shakhtar Donetsk has a passion for animals. Two years ago, the 30-year-old adopted a polar bear from the Prague Zoo. Now, Hübschman’s family consists of his wife Jana, their daughter Michaela, some gorillas and bears, and two Yorkshire terriers: Wendy and Vicki. However, Hübschman must leave them all behind this summer for Euro 2012, where the Czechs are hoping to roar through the group stage and into the knockout rounds. Revolutionary verve: Lviv was the city in which the first official Ukrainian opposition to the Soviet regime took place. From the mid-to-end 1980s until the early 1990s, Lviv became the centre of Rukh, a civilpolitical movement advocating Ukrainian independence from the USSR, at a time when no other parties except for the Communist Party were allowed in the Soviet Union. An incredible demonstration took place in 1990 as a chain of volunteers (approximately 4.5 million) stretched roughly 550 km, all the way from Lviv to Kyiv. OUTLOOK / SPECIAL Klaas-Jan Huntelaar European stars: According to the UEFA club rankings, Ukraine was the best performing nation in the European competitions in the 2008/09 season. That year, Shakhtar Donetsk won the UEFA Cup after beating its archrival Dynamo Kyiv in the semi-final, having already beaten another Ukrainian club, Metalist Kharkiv, in the Round of 16. These performances weren’t a flash in the pan: Shakhtar reached the Champions League quarter-final in 2010/11, and one year later Metalist Kharkiv did the same in the Europa League. Blowing the trumpet: If you thought the vuvuzela was annoying at the 2010 World Cup, you may want to duck for cover when the zozulicas come out this summer. With 7000 years of history, the cuckoo-shaped whistles have united a number of Slavic Eastern European countries. They are easy to use, and at less than 5 USD, are sure to be a feature at Euro 2012 – whether you like it or not. The whistles will provide a constant background noise that fans all around the world will hear, adding to what is sure to be an electric atmosphere. D utch efficiency: Striker Klaas-Jan Huntelaar is not known for his exquisite technique and his goals are rarely spectacular. However, the Dutchman’s ruthlessness makes him one of the most potent players in the penalty box. In February against England, Huntelaar became the second most efficient Dutch striker ever, with an average minute-per-goal ratio of 96.20, due to 30 goals in 2886 minutes played. Only the legendary Bep Bakhuys, who played for Holland in the 1930s, is better, thanks to an outstanding average of 73.93 (28 goals in 2070 minutes). Lviv, Ukraine C Extra motivation: Erik Hamrén Good things come in threes: Alongside Dick Advocaat and Giovanni Trapattoni, Sweden’s boss Erik Hamrén will be the only coach at Euro 2012 to have won a trophy in at least three different countries. Hamrén started his trophy-gathering ways at AIK, winning the Swedish Cup twice. Then the coach picked up his third national cup with Örgryte before heading for Denmark, where he guided Aalborg to the championship in 2008. Trophies kept flowing for Hamrén when he won the Norwegian league in 2009 and 2010 with Rosenborg. It is easy to see why he is nicknamed the “King of Scandinavia”. Odd one out: laims to fame: Kharkiv, Ukraine’s second biggest city (after Kyiv), is the cultural, scientific, educational and economic heart of the country. The city is widely known for its immense Freedom Square, currently the 12th largest city square in the world, with an area of 119,000 m². But Kharkiv also has other claims to fame: It is here that, in 1932, USSR scientists first split the atom. Kharkiv is also the biggest city located on the 50th parallel – commemorated by a metal stripe in its centre. England is the only major European football nation never to have won this tournament. The latest UEFA rankings show the rest of the top six have lifted the trophy: Spain (1964 & 2008), the Netherlands (1988), Germany (1972, 1980 & 1996), Italy (1968) and Russia (1960). England’s best performances have been a third-place finish in 1968 and a run to the semi-finals in 1996. However, England’s record of seven appearances in the tournament is bettered only by Germany (ten), Russia (nine), Netherlands and Spain (eight each). During the first European Championships in 1960, Spain’s right wing dictator Francisco Franco refused to allow his national team to travel to the Soviet Union for a playoff game and thus handed the USSR a free victory. The two nations had not shared diplomatic relations since the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s. Nikita Khrushchev, the Soviet leader, chided Spain for its decision to withdraw from the tournament, but he should have been sending Franco some vodka as a thank you, for the Soviets bounced back to win the tournament. Second time lucky? Euro 2012 will be the Republic of Ireland’s second trip to the finals. Its previous appearance was in 1988 in West Germany, where it failed to go further than the initial group stage. However, the Irish did have the satisfaction of beating England and also finishing above their neighbours in the group table. Their record in the World Cup has been more impressive with three tournament appearances – in Italy in 1990, the USA in 1994 (where they earned a famous win over Italy) and Japan & South Korea in 2002. Euro 2012 diary: June 13 should be a date for your diary. Not only is the Netherlands’ clash with Germany arguably the standout tie of the tournament group stage, bringing together two fierce rivals who contested the 1974 World Cup final, but these two teams were the top scorers during qualifying, netting 71 goals between them in 20 games. They also boast the two most lethal forwards in qualification; Klass-Jan Huntelaar and Miroslav Klose, who between them scored a remarkable 21 goals in 14 games. BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 61 OUTLOOK / SPECIAL Gerd Müller Success story: Of the 16 teams at Portugal Euro 2012, is the only one to have always survived the competition’s group stage. The Selecção das Quinas has qualified for the tournament five times, twice falling in the quarter-finals (in 1996 and 2008) and twice bowing out in the semi-finals (in 1984 and 2000). In 2004, Portugal was the host nation and, featuring a young Cristiano Ronaldo, produced its best performance ever, reaching the final. Despite playing at home, however, it was beaten 1-0 by underdog Greece. H ard labour: Since the fall of communism, Poland has concentrated its national re-modernising programme on industry, at the expense of sport. When Poland was awarded Euro 2012 with Ukraine five years ago, the country found itself without a single stadium fit for the tournament. Ultimately, this turned out to be unnecessary and the results of the rebuilding programme will be seen in the magnificent stadiums at Warsaw, Wrocław, Gdańsk and Poznań. F amily matters: The most famous footballing family in Denmark is the Laudrups, who gave their country three generations of professional players. However, they are not the only ones, as midfielder Lasse Schøne is the latest in his own family’s line. The 25-year-old Ajax player is the son of Lars Schøne (who played in the 1980s for B 1903 and KB) and the grandson of Willy Schøne (who was capped five times in the 1950s for the Denmark B team). Euro 2012 will be the first major international tournament for Lasse, who missed the 2010 World Cup due to injury. Making dreams (almost) come true: Sweden’s Zlatan Ibrahimović has always been a man in demand, despite being one of the more polarising players of the past decade. The craziest bid for him, however, was made in 2005 by an unemployed 36-yearold Swede. The man, a die-hard supporter of Swedish fourth-tier outfit Visby IF Gute, won 122 million Swedish krona (about 14 million EUR ) in the lottery, and offered the whole sum to his beloved club to buy his idol Ibrahimović, who at the time was playing in Italy for Juventus. The player, of course, did not move. Straight into the net: Though Antonín Panenka scored arguably the most famous penalty in the history of the game to win the shootout between Czechoslovakia and Germany in the 1976 European Championships final, less well known is the fact that the Czech players headed straight to the dressing room at the end of extra-time, unaware that penalties would follow to decide the winners. Perhaps that is the secret to shootout success? For the Germans, now renowned for their spot-kick expertise, it was a rare shootout defeat. Never too old: Russia could be taking one of the oldest squads to this summer’s European Championships. Though 21-year-old Alan Dzagoev is one of the rising stars of European football, such is the dearth of talent that last year, the Russian Union of Players and Coaches released a statement which claimed that just two other players aside from Dzagoev, Russian and born between 1990 and 1992, were competing for the country’s top teams. This does not bode well for the 2018 World Cup, which Russia is due to host. Turning back the clock: Surprisingly, Poland has only qualified for one previous European Championship: Euro 2008 held in Austria and Switzerland. Euro 2012 marks the country’s second appearance, qualifying automatically as co-host. Poland’s record is far more impressive at World Cups, for which it has qualified seven times. Some catching up to do: As the inventors of football, English teams dominated the game’s early years but considered international tournaments to be of minor importance. The national team did not take part in the first three World Cups (1930, 1934 & 1938) and was knocked out in the first qualifying round for the 1960 European Championships. When it did enter the World Cup, England fared badly, with an embarrassing loss to the USA in 1950. It has taken these tournaments more seriously since then. False alarm: Last year, British newspaper The Independent shocked the whole of Portugal by breaking the news that the country had sold Cristiano Ronaldo 160 million EUR to Spain for to ease its debt-fuelled financial collapse. It was also reported that the player had already accepted the bid to “act like a patriot”. Luckily for the Portuguese the story was a fake, reported by the newspaper for April Fools’ Day. Alexei and Vasily Berezutsky Like brother like… brother: Defenders Alexei and Vasily Berezutsky are the only twins to have ever represented the Soviet Union or Russia; Vasily is older than Alexei by a mere 20 minutes. At school, the twins sometimes used their similarity to deceive teachers when responding to questions. Even now, very few people can distinguish between the two, although Alexei thinks it is easy – he is slightly taller and heavier than Vasily. Both play their club football for CSKA Moscow and will be important members of the Russian squad this summer. O minous date: Spain may be pleased that it will not be playing on June 22, regardless of how it does in the group It has lost three penalty shootouts, all on that day – to Belgium in the 1986 World stage this year. Cup, England in Euro 1996 and to South Korea at the 2002 World Cup. On a more positive note, Spain beat Italy on penalties in Euro 2008 on June 22. With talents like Xavi, Andrés Iniesta and Cesc Fàbregas, there will be no excuse for the Spaniards failing in a shootout at Euro 2012. OUTLOOK / SPECIAL 2010 FIFA World Cup South Africa – Group E – Netherlands vs. Denmark T he wrong way round: Danish midfielder Christian Eriksen is one of the few players to have made his debut in an Under-21 team after already representing his country’s senior team. When the Ajax youngster was called up for the Danish squad for the 2011 Under-21 European Championships, he had already played five games for the senior team – including two at the 2010 World Cup, where he was the youngest player at the tournament. G’day, mate: In Croatia Josip Šimunić is highly regarded for his great technique. Elsewhere, though, the Australian-born defender is remembered for an incident that happened at the 2006 World Cup against the country of his birth. Šimunić was sent off by English referee Graham Poll only after having picked up his third yellow card. “It was because of Šimunić’s Australian accent,” Poll later said in his biography. “I recorded the second booking as Australia no. 3 instead of Croatia no. 3.” Football rocks: “But deep down inside, I got a rock ‘n’ roll heart” – that’s what Lou Reed sang in 1976. More than 30 years later, this could be a song the Croatian coach Slaven Bilić sings, too. Bilić is not only the youngest manager Croatia has ever had – he was appointed as head coach in 2006 when he was 37 – but he is also a big fan of rock music. Bilić plays the rhythm guitar with Croatian rock group Rawbau, which in 2008 recorded a song for the country’s performance at Euro 2008. Ireland’s most impressive catch: Ireland’s most successful coach ever was former England World Cup winner Jack Charlton, who led the team to its first ever major tournament finals, the 1988 European Championships, and then two World Cups. There is a life-sized statue of “Big Jack” at Cork Airport indulging in his other favourite sport during his stays in Ireland – fishing. He is shown holding an impressive catch. M up to: uch to live Since the Czech Republic separated from Slovakia and became an independent state, its national team has never missed a European Championships tournament. The team has participated in all four of the final stages (1996, 2000, 2004 and 2008) and is now ready for a fifth appearance. However, the majority of people in the country believe that the current squad is the weakest in recent memory. Seeing the sights: Visitors to Kyiv during the tournament can enjoy a ride through the world’s deepest underground railway station – the Arsenalna, which sits 105.5 metres under the river Dnieper and has two tracks. Opened in 1960, the station takes its name from the nearby Kyiv Arsenal factory. It is owned by the Kyiv Metro, and structurally has many similarities to stations on the London Underground. This is just one of many worthwhile tourist spots in the Ukrainian capital. When will it end?! The most penalties scored in a European Championships shootout came in 1980 in the thirdplace match between Italy and Czechoslovakia. The game fin- it took a staggering 18 penalties to decide the winner. Reigning champion ished 1-1 after extra time, and Czechoslovakia scored all nine of its penalties, and clinched a third-place finish when Italian defender Fulvio Collovati saw his penalty saved by goalkeeper Jaroslav Netolička. OUTLOOK / SPECIAL Michel Platini from France during a first round match of the European Championship (Euro 1984) against Denmark. France won 1-0 Pocket rocket: One of the most bizarre nicknames at Euro 2012 will surely be Sebastian “Formica Atomica” Giovinco’s (Atom Ant), a name given to the Italian striker for his blend of short stature (he stands at a mere 5 feet 4 inches) and exquisite technical skills. However, size has never been an issue for Giovinco, who, alongside Manchester City’s Mario Balotelli, is currently the brightest star of Italian football. The pocket-sized wizard is expected to make the Azzurri forget the disappointing 2010 World Cup. Won’t let your dad down: S tealing the show: UEFA president and former French international Michel Platini still holds the record for the most career goals in the European Championships – nine. Remarkably, all these came in the same competition – the 1984 tournament, hosted and won by France. He scored two hat-tricks against Belgium and Yugoslavia, each featuring a goal with his left foot, right foot and head. Platini then netted a last-minute winner in the semi-final and was also on the scoresheet in the final against Spain. Playing for Holland has become a family affair for Mark van Bommel since his father-in-law Bert van Marwijk was appointed as Oranje head coach in July 2008. The AC Milan midfielder came back to play for the national team and Van Marwijk, after he stated he would never wear the Dutch jersey again while former coach Marco van Basten was in charge. It is not the first time that Van Bommel and the father of his wife Andra have worked together – they also teamed up at Fortuna Sittard between 1997 and 1999. Pick a name! The impressive Olimpiysky National Sports Complex of Kyiv is the stadium that will host the Euro 2012 final on July 1. Opened on August 12, 1923 to stage the Second All-Ukrainian Spartakiad, the stadium has so far changed its name eight times. The current capacity of the Olimpiysky is 70 050. Euro 2000 – French team returns to Paris, Nicolas Anelka with trophy R are feat: Only eight players have reached the lofty heights of winning the European Cup/Champions League and the European Championships in the same year. The first was Luis Suárez in 1964 with Internazionale and Spain. Then in 1988, Hans van Breukelen, Ronald Koeman, Berry van Aerle, Wim Kieft and Gerald Vanenburg achieved the double with PSV Eindhoven and Holland. Most recently, Nicolas Anelka and Christian Karembeu joined this elite group in 2000, becoming champions of Europe with Real Madrid and France. OUTLOOK / SPECIAL Words of wisdom: Legendary goalkeeper Lev Yashin was known affectionately as the “Black Spider” because he wore an all-black kit for Russia and pulled off extraordinary saves. He was also something of a philosopher, once remarking: “What kind of a goalkeeper is not tormented by the goal that he has conceded? He must be tormented! And if he is calm, that means it is the end. No matter what he did in the past, he has no future.” This philosophy has clearly worked. Yashin is estimated to have made about 150 penalty saves in his career. N Andrey Arshavin UEFA EURO 2008 – Austria vs. Poland o crowd-pleaser: Howard Webb, one of the referees who will officiate at Euro 2012, may well receive a cool reception in Poland. The Englishman has never been forgiven by Poles for the crucial penalty he awarded against them in their pivotal clash with Austria at Euro 2008. Discussing the penalty decision, Poland’s coach at the time, Leo Beenhakker, said: “Of the wrestling that was going on, I didn’t see anything that has been punished before.” Poland was eliminated in the tournament’s group stage. Lethal weapon: Miroslav Klose is a goal-scoring machine at the international level, and the only player who has scored four goals or more in three different tournaments: the 2002, 2006 and 2010 World Cups. He is also the second top scorer in Germany’s history, with 63 goals, five behind Gerd Müller. Intriguingly though, for all his quality in front of the net, he has been less successful at European Championships, getting just two goals in the tournament to date. B ecause I’m worth it: Olivier Giroud has enjoyed a superb season with Montpellier in Ligue 1 and will be aiming to make his presence felt in France coach Laurent Blanc’s squad. “The Beautiful Kid”, as he is known, admits spending considerable time before matches making sure that his hair looks its best. His manager, René Girard, has told that “he should not worry about messing up his hair” and should find the net more often with his head. Keeping it clean: Donetsk, which will host France vs England and Ukraine’s games against these two teams in the group stage, is in the heart of the country’s coal-mining region. But it is also the world’s cleanest industrial city, according to UNESCO, and the world’s shallowest sea, the Azov, is an hour away. The city has had plenty to celebrate on the football pitch, too: Local club side Shakhtar Donetsk won the Ukrainian title in 2010 and 2011, as well as the UEFA Cup in 2009. Fan liaison: Andrey Arshavin has been derided by Arsenal fans over the years for an apparent lack of effort, but the winger, who has been on loan at Zenit St. Petersburg, certainly works hard off the pitch to engage with the public. On his official website, Arshavin answers a range of questions in his ‘Ask Andrey’ section, through which he has spoken of his fondness for bears, the importance of child safety and the crucial role of water chemical composition in choosing the right hair-styling product. OUTLOOK / SPECIAL T Antonio Cassano Comeback kid: The talented but hard-to-handle Italian striker Antonio Cassano has often hit the headlines for his temper, which led to the coining of the neologism Cassanata – which means unprofessional behaviour on and/or off the pitch. But recently. The AC Milan man was in the spotlight for different reasons, with a goal against Siena that came almost six months after he suffered brain damage and heart problems last November. Cassano has now fully recovered, which is good news for Italian coach Cesare Prandelli – and the press. Fly to Warsaw with Flights from Riga starting from EUR 69 From more than 50 airBaltic network cities via Riga starting from EUR 79 Earn 1-10 BalticMiles Points per each Euro spent on flight tickets BalticMiles partners in Warsaw: airBaltic, LSG Sky Chefs, Avis, Sixt, airBalticCard, Language Direct, Worldhotels, Radisson Blu, Best Western eam of nations: Golden touch: Co-host Germany will be the most “international” team at Euro 2012. Counting coach Joachim Löw’s recent call-ups, there are at least ten players born, or with roots, abroad: Miroslav Klose, Lukas Podolski (both born in Poland), Cacau (Brazil), Mario Gómez (Spanish roots), Sami Khedira (Tunisian roots), Mesut Özil, İlkay Gündoğan, Serdar Tasci (all Turkish roots), Dennis Aogo (Nigerian roots) and Jérôme Boateng (Ghanaian roots). Interestingly the latter’s brother, Kevin-Prince Boateng, plays for Ghana. Finally made it: New England manager Roy Hodgson may have managed Switzerland and Finland at international level, but he has never enjoyed a European Championships from the dugout, despite qualifying the former. Indeed, Hodgson steered Switzerland to Euro 96, in his home country. However, he then left to join Italian side Inter before the tournament. This time around, it is Hodgson who is taking over another coach’s work, with Fabio Capello having guided England through qualification. Poland’s hopes of progress at Euro 2012 mainly lie at Robert Lewandowski’s feet. The 23-yearold striker has so far enjoyed the best season of his career, winning a second Bundesliga title in a row with Borussia Dortmund, and finishing third in the season’s goalscoring charts. But Lewandowski has already been a league top scorer three times: in 2007 and 2008 with Znicz Pruszków and 2010 with Lech Poznań in Poland’s Ekstraklasa. M otoring to glory: Observers of Holland and Manchester City midfielder Nigel de Jong could be forgiven for concluding that the nickname he coined for himself, Barracuda , is all to do with having real bite in the tackle and closing in on his prey with stealthy speed. Instead though, it is down to De Jong’s love of the classic car the Plymouth Barracuda, one of which he owns. Will he drive Holland to Euro 2012 glory? OUTLOOK / SPECIAL cooperation with www.anothertravelguide.com In Photos corbis and by Ainars erglis, una meistEre The bar à vins – a Paris institution 72 / AIRBALTIC.COM OUTLOOK / SPECIAL There is an old adage that if you want to know what’s going on in the city, then go visit the local bar. That remains true to this day, and Paris’ timeless bars à vins, or wine bars, are testimony to this fact. Over the generations, they have remained a fixture of the Parisian landscape, serving as a meeting place for members of all social classes – aristocrats and proletarians, students and white collar workers. Every district of the city has its share of bars à vins, each with its own history and atmosphere. True, the wine bars of today do differ a bit from their predecessors. Yes, it is still possible to sit at a metal-clad counter, munch on a tasty snack and sip on a glass of red wine poured out from a wooden barrel – most likely from a small but first-rate producer selected by the owner. Yet lately, many of Paris’ wine bars have started placing more emphasis on the gastronomic experience, transforming themselves into a cross between a bar and a restaurant. Some have become acclaimed lunch and dinner spots. That means that the appetizers and the wine can be followed by an excellent three-course meal. The wine bars are frequently staffed by young chefs who like to experiment, often using locally grown and seasonal foods in attractive menus that are not overly extensive. Thus, Paris’ wine bars are serving as experimental laboratories, with the sommeliers and the chefs working together to find the best combinations of wine and food. The newer bars tend to offer organic and natural wines (without sulphites), as well as ecologically grown food. But of course, the main asset of any wine bar is its atmosphere – open, friendly and laid back. Following a dinner at a classical Paris restaurant, you will also be pleasantly surprised by the bill, which in most cases should be quite reasonable. Below are five inspiring and colourful bars à vins, each with its own character, story and atmosphere. Legrand Filles et Fils One of the oldest and most distinctive wine bars in Paris, which is located in a no less distinctive place – the Galerie Vivienne. Designed by legendary architect Francois Jean Delannoy and completed in 1826, the shopping arcade is a destination in itself. Lined with small shops and cafés, the arcade is one of the most beautiful and romantic in Paris, with a relaxed, slow-paced and slightly hedonistic atmosphere. Here, one is drawn to unhurriedly gaze into the shop windows and immerse oneself in one detail or another, and perhaps to have lunch or a snack under the glass cupola ceiling. The history of Legrand Filles et Fils goes back to the end of the 19th century and is like that of a finely matured wine. Initially, the space that the wine bar now occupies served as a warehouse for spices, coffee, tea and chocolate. Later, it became a store. Pierre Legrand took it over immediately after the end of the First World War, continuing to sell delicacies, along with wine that he bought in barrels from warehouses and filled into bottles at his shop. When his son Lucien – an avid wine lover – took over the enterprise, he scoured the country’s wine-producing regions for the best possible wines, bringing them back to Paris and offering them to the establishment’s patrons. Lucien’s daughter Francine, for her part, began a successful collaboration with renowned and prestigious wine experts, bringing international acclaim to her enterprise. Although the company changed ownership in 2000 and no longer belongs to the Legrand family, it remains as authentic as ever, uniting a bar, a shop and lunch spot under one roof. The relatively congenial bar section has the refinement of a well-aged wine, with an elegant wooden floor and shelves lined with wine bottles. One can sit either at the bar counter or in high wicker chairs placed by old wooden tables. The degustation menu, which offers five white and five red wines, changes once a week. However, you may also opt for a special wine from the Legrand Filles et Fils cellars – which house a wide variety of outstanding wines from all over the world and particularly from France – and drink it right there by the bar counter for a 15-EUR corkage fee. A few steps away, the company store offers a great selection of bottled wines, as well as books, glasses, decanters and other items devoted to wine and wine-serving, not to mention various delicacies, such as truffles and foie gras. 1, rue de la Banque www.caves-legrand.com BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 73 OUTLOOK / SPECIAL Le Baron Rouge Le Baron Rouge is simultaneously a legendary establishment and a unique degustation spot. The wines are stored in wooden barrels obtained from small and independent producers in the Bordeaux, Loire and Rhône regions of France. A glass should cost you between 1.50 and 3.20 EUR. The bar space itself is relatively small and much of the activity takes place outside on the sidewalk, where on warm summer afternoons, men with worn shoes and clothing can be seen sipping on glasses of wine, side-by-side with wellto-do ladies carrying expensive Chanel handbags and leashed lapdogs. One will be hard-pressed to find such a varied mix of patrons anywhere else in Paris, which in itself is a good reason to visit this establishment. Those who wish to have more than just a light snack can also order oysters or sausages on the side. If you get an impulsive urge to continue enjoying the evening at your hotel room or at a friend’s place, then for a mere 4 EUR, they will fill up a take-away glass bottle of wine for you, straight from the barrel. Not far away is one the most lively and colourful markets in Paris, the Marché d’Aligre, which also incorporates the famous Marché Beauvau. The latter is known as the second oldest covered market pavilion in the city and dates from the year 1777. 1 rue Th. Roussel Au Sauvignon The embodiment of French chic in the form of a bar à vins. The interior feels as small as a broom closet, but is complemented by a sidewalk terrace and large windows, from which the lively activity on Paris’ left bank can be freely observed. Here one will see Bon Marché luxury department store customers, university students (after all, the Sorbonne is one of the main features of the old Latin Quarter on left bank of the Seine), art gallery visitors and antique store shoppers. Although the passage of time has left its mark, traces of the erstwhile intellectual and artistic bohemian aura can still be felt here from the days when Jean-Paul Sartre would stop by for a glass of wine at the Café de Flore. Later, in 1966, French fashion guru Yves Saint Laurent opened his iconic YSL Rive Gauche brand, which gave rise to a veritable revolution in European fashion. Something from this past glory can still be felt at Au Sauvignon, with its small marble tables placed close beside each other and walls that look like a wine history book – complete with historical posters, maps of wine routes and pictures of colourful personalities. And since the presentation of the wine is no less important than the wine itself, don’t be surprised if a wine which you believe to know well tastes completely different at Au Sauvignon. The bar is particularly well-known for its Beaujolais wines and is one of the Parisians’ favourite spots for marking the beginning of the Beaujolais Nouveau season. No less legendary are the Au Sauvignon sandwiches – prepared with bread from the nearby Poilane bakery and served with homemade pâtés or cheese. Conveniently, the bakery is operated by the same family that owns Au Sauvignon. 80 rue des Saints-Pères OS Rekl.BO 6x26 08.02 FIN.pdf 1 2/8/12 1:15 PM OUTLOOK / SPECIAL Le Verre Volé Le Verre Volé can be found in the formerly industrial-come-fashionable and slightly alternative Canal St Martin district, where – a fair distance away from the usual tourist spots – Paris pulsates in a completely different rhythm. On sunny days, the edges of the canal are full of picnickers. Nearby is the wonderful fashion and design bookstore Artazart, which also serves as a club of sorts, and the appropriately named quality film store Potemkine. Le Verre Volé or “stolen glass” is a very small establishment with a glass façade that reminds one of hundreds of flattened wine bottle fragments. The bar is scarcely larger than a living room, with only a couple of tables for the patrons. The walls are stacked with wine bottles and covered with concert, theatre and other cultural event posters, all of which serve to make you feel relaxed and help your conversation flow freely. Le Verre Volé is also like a cosy living room in the sense that its young and laid-back owners are outstandingly hospitable. The menu is written out in chalk on a blackboard and changes with the seasons. No bold culinary experiments here; yet everything tastes fantastic and is creatively presented on your plate, and at very reasonable prices. The wine menu is extensive, encompassing all of the main wine-producing regions of France, as well as small wineries. Le Verre Volé places special emphasis on organic wines and was one of the first wine bars in Paris to offer them to the public. You can taste truly exquisite wines here, where quality and price are evenly balanced. The unusual combination of disarming simplicity and outstanding quality is another reason why this small bar à vins is definitely worth visiting, and why you will want to return there again to spend pleasant moments with your friends over a glass of good wine. 67, rue de Lancry www.leverrevole.fr OUTLOOK / SPECIAL Le Rubis Le Rubis is a place that you would probably not find if you didn’t specifically look for it, and that you would probably not think of visiting unless somebody told you about it. The bar is located on a small side street, less than fifty paces from the renowned Colette fashion store and from the snobby, touristfilled Rue du Faubourg St Honoré shopping street. However, sometimes a few sidesteps are enough to bring you into a completely different environment. Almost right next to Le Rubis stands an oyster restaurant that is popular with the locals and reasonably priced, providing a great spot to pause and regain one’s senses during your Parisian shopping frenzy. With its doors and windows painted the colour of red wine and barrels outside by the entrance covered with red chequered tablecloths, as well as a metal-topped bar counter staffed by the owner himself, Le Rubis is a bit like a trip back in time. Here, on this small “wine island”, life still goes on as if globalization was a vague term of futurist literature, and as if the big luxury corporations, which have since swallowed up just about all of the small haute couture fashion houses like tasty bite-sized morsels, had not yet begun their nightmarish expansion. The drinks at this bar come in small glasses that are served full to the brim. Le Rubis specializes in wines from the Beaujolais, Loire, Alsace, Bordeaux and Burgundy regions of France. 10, Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré Fly to Paris with Direct flights from Riga starting from EUR 89 From Scandinavia and Eastern Europe via Riga starting from EUR 89 Earn 1-10 BalticMiles Points per each Euro spent on flight tickets BalticMiles partners in Paris: airBaltic, LSG Sky Chefs, Avis, Sixt, airBalticCard, Language Direct, Worldhotels, Radisson Blu, Park Inn by Radisson art of искусство LIVING ЖИТЬ Style, quality and luxury combined with historic spirit of the buildings reflect a special atmosphere of the past. There are not just simple apartments in the city center, their conception reflects a real quality of living, respectable neighborhood and comfort. Unique apartments in the very heart of Riga and Vilnius. Contact us in Vilnius +370 91 01 013, [email protected] Contact us in Riga +371 25 440 052, [email protected] Стиль, качество и роскошь в сочетании с историческим духом зданий порoждают атмосферу старины. Это не просто квартиры в центре города, а особая среда, которую создаёт качественное жилое пространство, уважаемые соседи и комфорт. Уникальные апартаменты в самом сердце Риги и Вильнюса. Наши контакты в Вильнюсе +370 91 01 013, [email protected] Наши контакты в Риге +371 25 440 052, [email protected] www.newsecbaltics.com/residential OUTLOOK / TRAVEL Text by Simon Cooper Photos Corbis, Alamy and publicity photos Wheel into the wild While Copenhagen frequently takes most of the plaudits for Denmark’s cycling chic and culture, there are a number of more rural areas where exploring the great outdoors is no less a case of ‘four wheels bad, two wheels good’. Baltic Outlook heads out on a journey of discovery in Jutland 80 / AIRBALTIC.COM OUTLOOK / TRAVEL Ask anyone in Denmark about the town of Billund and they’ll mention Legoland; ask anyone else about Legoland and they’ll probably associate it with Billund. Either way, more than one million guests flock to the resort complex and theme park each year. However, away from the torrent of visitors at Legoland, Billund has another asset: the seemingly accidental building blocks put together by Mother Nature, as opposed to those first put deliberately together by a local carpenter, later the founder of Lego, Ole Kirk Christiansen. Out on the west side of the country’s ancient North Sea peninsula, Billund stands out as something of a new town. Its existence has been fed and watered by the success of the Lego Group. With 6000 residents, Billund has come a long way since the founding of the company (which, like its generous cousin the Carlsberg Group in Copenhagen, has financed and facilitated the construction of several public buildings, such as a the airport in 1964 and a library and church in 1970). It’s now home to upcoming local businesses, and is carving a role as the area’s primary tourism hub – even ahead of the regional capital Vejle. Since Ole Kirk Christiansen first began manufacturing wooden construction bricks for children in 1932, Billund has become almost synonymous with Lego. It’s the spiritual home of a functional and attractive worldwide export that appeals to people of all ages – typically Danish. However, native Billunders and Danes in general are also fond of hitting the Great Outdoors. Cycling, hiking and fishing are amongst those activities that many places, of which Billund is a prime example, offer to holidaying young families, couples and nature enthusiasts. Beaten hiking trails weave through lime-green shrubbery and a flat landscape, along disbanded railway lines and pond-like lakes that brim with reeds. The countryside here bears a strangely childlike charm. That is why small kids, big kids and those stuck somewhere in between can all easy tackle picturesque but undemanding bike and walking routes, while the addition of a car will enable visitors to take a leisurely drive to numerous other towns and villages scattered around the region. BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 81 OUTLOOK / TRAVEL ROUTES Hop onto your bike (see www.billundbike.dk for the best deals) or explore the countryside trails that start in Billund on foot. Some of the trails go full circle, while others lead to nearby villages and towns. The most well-known of these is Den Skæve Bane – ‘the crooked path’ in English – which was created out of an old railway line. It runs between Grindsted to the west of Billund and Silkeborg to the north. The route is relaxed, allowing one to take in the flat landscape and sprawling forest plantations. There’s plenty to keep the kids happy along these paths, depending on which route you take. The Engelsholm cycling track (otherwise known as Re- gional Route 34), for example, streams out of Billund and east towards the beautiful Vejle Fjord, running within touching distance of Lake Fårup. During the summer, a full replica Viking ship bobs on the water, while ancient rune stones (Viking Age rocky tablets used to transcribe early writings) can be seen there all year round. IMPORTANT STOPS The Wave (Bølgen), a residential building near Vejle Vejle Vejle, the capital and namesake of an administrative area to the west of Billund, has more than 50 000 inhabitants, making it the ninth largest city in the country. It stands by the stunning Vejle Fjord, which has historically served as a channel of trade. A number of cycling and walking routes link the city with others around it. Vejle is worth a visit if you crave more city-like activities, such as shopping and dining out, with a number of brilliant, if slightly pricey restaurants. The shopping street is one of the most famous in western Denmark, and the city’s art museum – which contains Danish works and a sizeable Rembrandt collection, is well worth a look. OUTLOOK / TRAVEL Legoland It would be wrong to avoid Legoland altogether. This children’s fantasy world is themed after the legendary Lego building kit and provides enchantment to many an adult as well. Opened in 1968, the park’s attractions range from live shows and 4D cinema to roller coasters and the symbolic ‘Miniland’. It took over 50 million of the blocks to fully complete the park. The original and oldest Legoland, which has had worthy imitations spring up in England, Germany and California amongst others, remains the area’s major player. Billund town centre Billund, which means ‘grove of the bees’ in Danish (‘bi’ = bee and ‘lund’ = grove), is mostly a young town, as the bulk of its buildings are less than 100 years old. From the air, you can clearly see the purposeful precision behind the town planning, originally geared towards Lego workers and their families – the streets are laid out in a practical, grid-like formation. The main street has a couple of good restaurants and a delightful local bakery (www.billundbageri.dk), along with the original workshop – now a small museum and information centre – that Ole Kirk Christiansen used to craft his first Lego bricks back in 1932. Everything is within easy walking distance here. OUTLOOK / TRAVEL accommodation Billund FDM Camping Just outside of the town lies the stunning campsite Billund FDM Camping. Perfectly placed by the water, it has fully furnished cabins and a wealth of onsite facilities, including a playground; a lake; a zoo complete with horses, goats and rabbits; and crazy golf, not to mention a supermarket. You don’t have to take a cabin, as the site also offers spaces for personal caravans. Zleep hotel Although it is located a couple of kilometres from the town centre, the affordable rooms and cycle hire make Zleep a top choice. And although it is also quite close to the airport, by the time your oxygen-dizzy head hits the pillow after a day’s worth of outdoor excursion, you won’t mind. Actually, due to the small size of the plane terminal and the nightly curfew on flights, you’re more likely to see the Northern Lights dance about on your bedroom windowsill than you are to hear a jet engine take off. Zleep has a flexible, tasty and well-priced breakfast, but most importantly, a fleet of bikes available for hire. A trip into the town takes you through grassland and offers a pretty approach to the built up area. The bikes are an ode to durability and not fashion, meaning that they are suitable for both paved surfaces and off-road terrain. www.zleephotel.com/hotel/zleep-hotel-billund Fly to Billund with Direct flights from Riga starting from EUR 85 From more than 50 airBaltic network cities via Riga starting from EUR 99 Earn 1-10 BalticMiles Points per each Euro spent on flight tickets Zleep hotel BalticMiles partners in Billund: airBaltic, LSG Sky Chefs, Avis, airBalticCard, Language Direct OUTLOOK / TRAVEL Text by Urban Nilmander Photos Corbis and by Carin Tegner Showdown in Spanish Hollywood It’s a hot day in Europe’s only desert and we are exploring the birthplace of numerous spaghetti Westerns Mini-Hollywood, a Western village built for the movie Once Upon a Time in the West, has now been converted into the Far West Amusement Park. It is located in the Tabernas Desert near Almería in Andalusia 88 / AIRBALTIC.COM OUTLOOK / TRAVEL Shady characters who resemble Blondie, Tuco and Angel Eyes are sitting at a rickety table, playing poker. A suspicious sheriff walks in and demands to know what the three gunmen are doing there. A hot-tempered dialogue abruptly ends with: “Photos? You can take photos if you want.” It’s a scorching hot afternoon and a strangely quiet one, despite the fact that we are only a stone’s throw away from the highway between Almería and Granada in Spain’s southernmost region of Andalusia. Dust and tumbleweeds blow down the street. Iconic signs such as Wells Fargo, Doc Holliday, Last Chance Saloon and Arizona Hotel fill up the view. We are standing at a place where Clint Eastwood, Lee Van Cleef, Charles Bronson, Henry Fonda and hundreds of other famous and not so famous screen stars recorded more than 200 films during the 1960s, 70s and 80s. BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 89 OUTLOOK / TRAVEL Between 200 and 300 films were made in Spain’s Tabernas area from 1950 until the 1980s Swiss actress Ursula Andress on the set of Soleil Rouge (Red Sun), directed by Terence Young (Great Britain) 90 / AIRBALTIC.COM The mock-up town was built to shoot films that were labelled spaghetti Westerns (because most of them were directed and produced by Italians) and was abandoned after the movie industry found cheaper filming locations. Nevertheless, this spot in the mountains north of Almería still attracts film buffs from all over the world, as well as young families that enjoy the illusion of being in a cowboys-and-Indians environment, without having to cross the Atlantic Ocean. Three theme parks have been built around the remaining Wild West towns in Tabernas, on the road to Granada. One of them, called Mini Hollywood, has been restored to the smallest detail. It has proper Western shows with stunts on horses and gun duels on the main street nearly every day. The neighbouring Fort Bravo Texas Hollywood hasn’t seen any considerable financial investments for ages. Everything here is heavily worn down in a charming way that makes it all the more appealing. The entrance is through a dusty, bumpy dirt road. Among the gray and dilapidated buildings are saloons, bars and gun shops. OUTLOOK / TRAVEL Tunisian-born Italian actress Claudia Cardinale and Brigitte Bardot on the set of Les Pétroleuses BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 91 OUTLOOK / TRAVEL The rugged and remotely populated terrain in Europe’s only desert was a perfect substitute for the real Wild West Dust and tumbleweeds blow down the street, with classic signs such as Wells Fargo, Doc Holliday, Last Chance Saloon and Arizona Hotel filling up the view 92 / AIRBALTIC.COM There is also a disused scaffold for public hangings in a square. Close by are the remains of a small Indian village with tipis and fireplaces. Standing here, with the snowy mountains of the Sierra Nevada visible at the horizon, it’s easy to understand the excitement of the location managers who worked for Italian director Sergio Leone, when they found this desert area in the beginning of the 1960s. Leone was known for his slow-moving, landscapedominated frames. The budget at the time was another advantage — labour in Franco’s Spain was cheap and many “Mexicans” were locals from the area. The majority of films made in Tabernas were Westerns, but parts of Lawrence of Arabia, Indiana Jones, Conan the Conqueror, Doctor Zhivago and Patton were also filmed here. Nowadays, only commercials are shot in the area. During my visit, eight tourists watch four Spanish actors performing a short Western skit in a saloon. All of them are smiling. The only dramatic event is when a child in the audience starts to cry after one of the bad guys is shot down. The actors take a pause so that the “bad guy” can comfort the crying spectator. Outside of the saloon, the blazing sun makes us squint like Clint Eastwood. You can almost hear one of his immortal one-liners: “You see, in this world there are two kinds of people, my friend: those with loaded guns and those who dig. You dig.” BO OUTLOOK / TRAVEL A wagon with a white horse is parked outside a saloon. From inside, a hoarse Mexican voice sings La Cucaracha BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 93 OUTLOOK / TRAVEL SPANISH HOLLYWOOD Getting there About 50 km north of Almería in southeastern Spain. Málaga is about two hours away by car. The area is also accessible from Granada, north of the Tabernas Desert. Four Spanish actors perform a short Western skit for us Fly to Barcelona with Direct flights from Riga starting from EUR 115 From Scandinavia and Eastern Europe via Riga starting from EUR 129 Earn 1-10 BalticMiles Points per each Euro spent on flight tickets BalticMiles partners in Barcelona: airBaltic, LSG Sky Chefs, Avis, Sixt, airBalticCard, Language Direct, Worldhotels 94 / AIRBALTIC.COM Hours Fort Bravo Texas Hollywood: daily 09:30–19:00 from April to September. Open on weekends during the rest of the year. Mini Hollywood: daily 10:00–19:00 for the summer season. Closed on Mondays during the winter season (October to March). Western Leone: open Saturdays and Sundays from 9:30 – 19:00. Entrance fee 14 EUR for adults; 7 EUR for kids under the age of 12 Detour A visit to the lovely and almost untouched Cabo de Gata-Nijar National Park on the Andalusian coast is an absolute must if you’re in the area. CARS In association with Whatcar.LV Driven: the Toyota GT86 says... Toyota’s back to basics approach has created an affordable coupe that provides pure driving pleasure You could argue that the GT86 is Toyota’s most important new model for years. Important not in terms of numbers sold, but because of what the car means for the brand. Toyota has always made its money from its hatchbacks and saloons, but in years gone by, it also offered one or two sporty models. These added sparkle to its range and enhanced the firm’s image as a serious engineering force. The last cars to play this role – the Celica coupe and MR2 roadster – were discontinued in 2006 and 2007, respectively. Toyota’s product portfolio has looked a little lacklustre ever since. The sexy new GT86 coupe should definitely help to change that. It’s a four-seat coupe that’s focused on providing pure driving pleasure. To do this, it combines low weight with the classic sports car layout – engine at the front and driven wheels at the rear. Power is provided by a naturally-aspirated 2.0-litre petrol engine (no turbochargers here) and transferred to the road through a limited-slip differential. What’s it like to drive? Take a look at the GT86’s muscle car-like lines, and you might expect rip-snorting performance. However, while it’s quick if you drive it in the right way, it doesn’t offer the sort of acceleration that’ll take your breath away. The 200 hp engine peaks at a lofty 7000 rpm, and its modest 205 Nm of torque is also delivered at very high revs. The result CARS is that the engine really only comes alive when you reach around 4500 rpm. Dip below that at any point, and you’ll wonder what happened to all the go. On the other hand, if you manage to keep the engine on the boil (despite the notchy, ground as possible, too, which keeps the centre of gravity low. The result is a car that changes direction with impressive balance. It’s helped by fast throttle responses and quick, meatily weighted (if not overly communicative) imprecise gearshift) the GT86 will definitely have enough pace to keep you entertained. The 0-100 km/h sprint takes 7.7 seconds and top speed is 225 km/h. The thing is, though, the GT86 was never designed for straight-line speed; it was designed for handling prowess. That’s where the engineers from Toyota and Subaru (who developed this car in collaboration with Toyota, and will offer its own version, called the BRZ) have played a blinder. Central to the GT86’s design brief was for the car’s weight to be distributed evenly front-to-back. The heavy bits (namely the driver and engine) are set as close to the steering, which make the car feel even more alert. Granted, there’s a little bit of slop in the suspension when you turn in initially, but the body is solidly controlled thereafter. Put the GT86 on a track and the rear-wheeldrive layout lets you have a huge amount of fun in this environment. Give the GT86 a bootful of throttle in tight corners and you can get the back end sliding in proper hooligan style. As for the ride, it seemed firm but fair on the smooth Spanish surfaces we were travelling, but we can’t be sure until we’ve driven the car on the bumpier Baltic roads. What we can say now is that refinement is CARS totally acceptable; there’s some wind noise at the national limit, but the engine isn’t overly loud and road noise is impressively isolated. You can also drop the rear-seat backrests to boost volume, and it leaves a flat floor, although the one-piece nature of the backrest limits versatility. What’s it like inside? As for the interior design, you’ll either love There’s plenty of space up front and lots of it or hate it. The toggle switches, orange adjustment for the steering wheel digital clock and carbon-fibreand driver’s seat, but the high The Toyota effect plastic dash inserts look shoulder line of the car, combined GT86 is a car like they belong in a car from with the (albeit pleasant) lowfor drivers, the 1980s. slung driving position, means that The touch-screen system that not fashion controls the stereo, phone (and, you feel a little hemmed in. victims The back seats are next to if specified, satellite-navigation) useless; rear seat passengers lends a modern twist, but it’s much over five feet nine inches tall will not easy to use because of confusing find their head is pressed against the rear menus and small on-screen icons. window, while leg room is even tighter. Thankfully, the rest of the switchgear Most adults won’t have a prayer of fitting in. is simple. Still, the boot is a decent size at 243 litres, The interior quality isn’t bad, either. and the load space is long and wide, if a Some panels feel a little cheap, but most little shallow. are reasonably smart and tactile. The assembly also feels incredibly solid – you’ll start creaking before the car does. Should I buy one? The GT86 has an average official economy of 7.7 liters/100 km, which isn’t too bad. It is slightly more expensive than the entry-level Audi TT coupe, but Toyota gives you plenty of standard equipment, too, including alloys, climate control, keyless entry, cruise control, Bluetooth and touch screen multimedia system. If you are in the market for a coupe and love driving, get your name down now, for it seems likely that – at least in the early days – demand for the GT86 will far outstrip supply. There is no doubt that the GT86 will send a huge blast of fresh air through this class. The last time an affordable Japanese sports car felt this right, Mazda called it the MX-5. BO CARS BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 99 OUTLOOK / GADGETS Text by Roger Norum | Publicity photos Bedside friends Baltic Outlook tries out the best new gadgets for your nightstand MadeByZen Opus Wake me up before you go-go Magicbox Beam Your own personal DJ What if waking up was less stressful, more enjoyable and easier? This aroma-diffusing alarm clock really does the trick. It innovatively fuses aromatherapy with technology to mimic a natural wake-up process, incorporating natural sounds, a simulated ‘sunrise’ and various fragrances (“coffee” is one available flavour) to awaken you from your slumber. Also acts as a mini humidifier and air ioniser. This elegant DAB/FM radio doubles as an iPod/iPhone docking station and is perfect for the bedside or kitchen. Features two high-powered 10-watt speakers that pump out some great audio, as well as a digital alarm clock with sleep and snooze, along with a touch-sensitive colour screen with an in-display menu that displays your actions on the (intuitive) remote. Swivel stand. i www.madebyzen.com | 96 EUR i www.magicboxproducts.com | 199 EUR LightSleeper Automated sheep counter An ingenious gadget, this small projector beams soothing light onto your ceiling, circling above you and relaxing you – almost hypnotically. Your eyes follow the projection, which helps you gradually drift off to sleep. Can be turned on with a simple tap and automatically switches off after half an hour of use. Small enough to bring with you while you travel. Adjustable brightness control. i www.lightsleeper.co.uk | 151 EUR Amplicomms TCL210 Vibrating travel alarm Finally, an alarm clock for the jet laggers of the world. This digital display clock has a powerful vibrating alert, which is sure to wake even the groggiest and deepest of sleepers. You can also place it right under your pillow. There are three audio settings for a piercing alarm volume – up to 65 dB – as well as a room temperature display and bright torchlight. Uses three AA batteries. i www.bootshearingcare.com | 40 EUR Magicbox Torque DECT Pretty phone home This gorgeous, sophisticated little cordless telephone may well make you think twice about getting rid of that landline. The sleek, contoured and hi-gloss design features a touchscreen and base that glows blue. In-phone answering machine, 20 last number redial, SMS capability and 50 m indoor (300 m outdoor) range. About 10.5 hours of talk time on one charge. i www.magicboxproducts.com | 79 EUR OUTLOOK / PROMO photo by girts rozners A sound like no other at Audio Bottega In the quiet Marijas iela 13 / IV, Riga Phone: +371 2832 2555 www.audiobottega.lv 104 / AIRBALTIC.COM alleyways of the Berga Bazārs in downtown Riga, one can escape from the noise of the big city by stepping into a world of unparalleled sound and quality music to feed the soul. That is because Audio Bottega is far more than a retailer of highend audio equipment. It is also a purveyor of positive emotions and unforgettable impressions. Audio Bottega offers its visitors the opportunity to listen to premium CD, vinyl and reel-to-reel tape recordings on its world-class VIVA Audio sound systems. Specially equipped listening rooms and top-of-the-line technology, along with a competent and friendly staff, make Audio Bottega stand out as a special destination for music lovers in the city. Here you will be treated to more than just great music recordings. You will experience an incomparable level of sound, which can be classed as among the best in the world. VIVA Audio’s superb horn acoustic systems are all carefully made by handcrafted. Their finely finished wood surfaces can be varnished in a variety of shades and tones to match the colour scheme of almost any home interior. Soon, additional new materials such as leather and metal will be added for an even more exotic finishing. Accomplished musicians take note – Audio Bottega is planning to convert one of its listening rooms into an analogue live recording studio. That means no computers and no digital processing of sound signals. No mixing and mastering, just a pure, live recording. Such studios usually employ only a few high-quality microphones, tube pre-amplifiers and a master audio reel-to-reel tape recorder. The first step in this direction has already been taken. Audio Bottega is now the proud owner of a unique Studer A-820 reel-to-reel recorder, which could be compared to a Rolls Royce in its class of audio equipment. Live and artificially unaltered music recorded on this type of equipment is in high demand among music enthusiasts the world over. Anyone who hears such a recording is guaranteed to feel as if they are listening to a live music recording session right there in the same room. That is not all, however, as Audio Bottega hopes to go one step further. Once it has begun to produce top quality analogue tape recordings, the salon plans on making vinyl records of these recordings. It thus appears that sooner or later, Audio Bottega is bound to become a coveted place to visit not only for audio enthusiasts and music collectors, but also for serious, professional musicians. BO OUTLOOK / PROMO Steak at stake S teiku Haoss is a chain of three steak restaurants with a total capacity of 500 diners (50 at Tērbatas iela, 150 at Audēju iela and 300 at Meistaru iela) 106 / AIRBALTIC.COM Photos by JAnis SaliNS, f64 Steiku Haoss’ terrace on Līvu laukums in the heart of Old Riga OUTLOOK / PROMO When it comes to the juiciest and tastiest steak (in other words, the best steak in town), it’s best to leave things to the experts – i.e. to those with an established history and an impeccable reputation. In that regard, Steiku Haoss easily serves as the ultimate destination for the hungry traveller One of the first things that STEIKU HAOSS Meistaru iela 23, Riga (+371) 67222419 Tērbatas iela 41/45, Riga (+371) 67272707 Audēju iela 2, Riga (+371) 67225699 www.steikuhaoss.lv twitter.com/SteikuHaoss one notices while browsing through the new menu of Steiku Haoss (or Steak Chaos, in English) is its seasonality. Of course, the classical steakhouse fare around which the restaurant built its name is all still there – fillet mignon, T-bone, New York strip and about 17 other kinds of steak. Now, however, a considerable amount of freshness has been added to the side orders on the summer season menu. For one, this has to do with the fact that in the summertime, we all prefer lightness over heartiness. Furthermore, by this autumn, three of Steiku Haoss’ chefs will have completed an internship at Noma, the renowned double Michelin-star restaurant in Copenhagen. Having worked 90 hours a week and seen up close the tough discipline and high creativity in one of the world’s finest eating establishments, the chefs have added a serious dose of inspiration to their home restaurants in Riga. You’ll see the haute cuisine influence mostly in the appetizers, salads and side dishes, as they usually stick to the classics with the steaks, allowing for only the occasional variations in the main course, such as pork fillet in thyme, grilled turkey fillet or salmon steak. Next year, the chain, which currently consists of seven restaurants (including three Steiku Haoss, two Ribs & Rock and two KID restaurants) will celebrate its 10th anniversary. The middle-priced eating establishments have been pioneers in three distinct specialties: steaks, ribs and salads, the latter being a trademark of KID. This specialization and focus has been a cornerstone of their success in Riga. Speaking of steaks and ribs, the restaurant chain has its own meat processing plant, which treats tasty cuts not only from the Baltics and Scandinavia, but also from suppliers in more distant countries that include Spain, New Zealand and Argentina. That shows how serious this chop shop really is. In the world of steaks, buying the best meat that you can is over half the success. The rest lies in perfect cutting, seasoning and cooking. Since the cutting and seasoning is done in-house at the processing plant on Tērbatas iela, Steiku Haoss can ensure the same consistent quality, no matter which of its restaurants in Riga you decide to visit. Although the quality of the food is uniformly high in all of the establishments, the menu does vary slightly, as each of the restaurants has tailored its dishes in accordance with the favourites of its clients. These are Beef fillet flambéed with rum and served on a hot stone Interior of Steiku Haoss at Līvu laukums really just minor adjustments, so don’t worry – the classics like grand buffalo or flambé steaks, or the beef fillet matured for 20 days, or that amazingly filling ovenbaked stuffed potato, are all going to be there. And like all grand steakhouses, Steiku Haoss is not only a bastion of beef. Its extensive range of steaks also includes pork, lamb and fish. For those who are not crazy about a rare piece of tenderloin, there’s a wide selection of soups, salads and light starters. Take a seat at one of the recently erected summer terraces to enjoy your meal at its outdoor best, and make sure a good bottle of Italian, French or Chilean red wine joins your company of friends. The house wine here is Spanish, while other reds and whites start from about 12 LVL per bottle. BO BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 107 OUTLOOK / DINING / PROMO A new royal pub in town Text by Isabel Ovalle Photo by JAnis SaliNS, f64 Queens Public House & Restaurant Kaļķu iela 2, Riga (+ 371) 67 800 001 www.queens.lv 108 / AIRBALTIC.COM Situated right in the heart of Riga’s Old Town, Queens these are on tap, along with bottled beers from Mexico opened its doors after a complete renovation in the and the USA. For foreigners and locals, Latvian beer is month of August. This cosy spot is an excellent choice the most popular. not only to have a beer (with 18 different local and Since it is open for most of the day until late in the foreign brands on offer) or a cocktail, but also to enjoy evening, Queens is not quite like most other public a delicious meal in a friendly atmosphere. houses in the classic sense, given that initially, pubs The new public house, informally and served mainly as drinking establishments in universally called a pub, provides an authentic the social culture of the UK, Ireland, Australia Good music and New Zealand. Queens differs in that British setting in the Latvian capital, with a and good respect, because it also offers all kinds of brand new and carefully selected Victoriancompany style décor. Located on Kaļķu iela number 2, meals, starting with an English breakfast, and are two Queens can serve 100 people, not counting the continuing with tasty snacks to accompany outside terrace set from May to September, a good beer or noontime cocktail. Don’t miss essential with space for another 50 diners. The pub is ingredients out on the tasty stake-o-fish, and don’t feel open on work days from 10:00 to 01:00 and on ashamed to engorge yourself in a splendid for any weekends from 10:00 until the last client leaves. dessert, such as an apple pie or cheese cake, pleasant Good music and good company are two accompanied with a broad selection of teas evening essential ingredients for any pleasant evening; and coffees. a scenario that is guaranteed in Queens, which This new pub and restaurant is also a paradise differs from other spots in Riga thanks to its for sports fans, who can watch a wide variety refined interior. When the time came to name the new of sports competitions, including football and rugby, on establishment, the owners thought: what could be more two screen televisions with different satellite channels, British than the Queen? Sky Sports included, which means that you can choose Like any true British or Irish pub, Queens carries a great the sports event that interests you the most. Don´t selection of draught beers, including ales, stouts and miss the opportunity to take advantage of the various lagers, both imported and domestic. From Guinness to discounts that Queens regularly offers, be it a special Boddingtons, or from Stella Artois to Leffe, any customer deal on a particular food and drink combination, or halfwill most likely find their favourite. There are beers not priced beer during important sports events, the perfect only from the United Kingdom and Latvia, but also from excuse to relax and unwind after a hard days work. With Belgium, the Czech Republic, Ireland or Denmark. All of live music on weekends. BO FOOD&DRINK Text by Kate KrUmiNa | Photo by reinis hofmanis, f64 Restaurants, bars and cafés Fly to Riga with airBaltic from €33 Riga downtown finds HE’s, Riga Heinrihs Erhards has become quite a name on Riga’s culinary scene. Educated in Latvia but then having gained experience at Michelinstarred establishments in New York and Paris, he has launched three restaurants in the Latvian capital so far. HE’s is the latest one (the first two being the Botanica Café and Cotton), and this time Erhards has paired up with the Latvian chain Vīna studija (Wine Studio), the city’s pioneers in planting the seeds of wine culture in this Northern European country. This is a happy marriage – with one side bearing a vast expertise in wines and the other mastering European cuisine – providing all of the preconditions for a long and enjoyable dinner. Even the lunch atmosphere is conducive to a refreshing break for office workers. The lunch menu – consisting of salad, soup, a main course and a dessert – changes two or three times a week. The main menu, which can be summed up as a creative improvisation with what’s seasonal and fresh (raw food options on the menu in summer), is wider but can still manage to fit into one A4 page, even when written out in three languages. French and Italian flavours dominate in the cuisine, while the desserts show influences of the time that Erhards spent in New York. Regarding the wines, who better to ask in Riga than the experts from Vīna studija? Pick one of the more than 700 wines at the Vīna studija store and for an additional 3.99 LVL, enjoy it together with your dinner meal right there at HE’s. Stabu iela 30 (corner of Tērbatas iela) Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11:00–24:00, Fri.–Sat.11:00–01:00, Sun.11:00–22:00 http://hegroup.lv FOOD&DRINK Maize Café, Riga When they first met on a flight from Milan to Riga, Inga – a Latvian artist – and Luca – an Italian with a passion for fine dining and travelling – both agreed that Riga’s café scene could use an additional dose of fresh air. At the time, Inga had founded a small publishing house devoted to children’s books, while Luca had just produced an audio guide about Riga. The two decided to form a partnership and open a new café in downtown Riga, where one could enjoy an excellent cup of coffee or tea together with both sweet and salty homebaked pastries – all in a creatively decorated interior. Hence Maize, which means ‘bread’ in Latvian, came into being. “We didn’t want to set up something too chic or ostentatious, which might put off the ordinary passer-by. Bread is a staple food that most people eat every day,” says Inga. And yes, Maize has a similarly primeval attractiveness to it that is hard to define. It is a fine spot for a morning coffee, as well as for a carefree evening with friends, having a bohemian aura that one finds in some European big-city cafés. Here, the feelings and the atmosphere prevail over the interior and the intricacies of the food. The menu is plain and simple, consisting of bruschettas and paninis made by Luca himself, along with stuffed muffins, delicious homemade cakes, ciabatta bread that can be ordered ‘to go’, and other items that attest to the co-owner’s country of origin. You are likely to be served by Luca and Inga themselves, which adds to the charm of the place. The majestic chestnut tree across from the café, which was in full bloom when I visited the establishment in May, is another added bonus. Ģertrūdes iela 16 Hours: Mon.–Sat. 08:00–22:00, Sun. 11:00–22:00 www.facebook.com/cafemaize OUTLOOK / FOOD BLOG Text by Natali Lekka | Photo courtesy of Dimotsis / www.keyproductions.gr Holding the secret to longevity Located in the southernmost part of Europe, the Greek island of Crete has been blessed with a temperate climate that provides the optimal conditions for cultivating high-quality produce. The Cretan diet, which dates back to the Minoan Age, is widely believed to promote longer and healthier lives Rusk Olive oil The Cretan rusk or paximadi is a good source of natural fibres that boost your digestive system. Moreover, this form of dried bread contains vitamin B and magnesium to help you maintain a healthy nervous system. Next time you visit a Cretan restaurant, ask for a fresh dakos salad, made from grated tomato, aromatic spices, traditional Cretan cheese and olive oil on a large barley rusk. A tip for the uninitiated: the rusk is a bit hard on the teeth and you need to slightly moisten it with a bit of water One healthy practice involves the everyday use of olive oil, which accounts for 40% of Cretans’ daily calories. Olive oil contains antioxidants that protect the heart and the liver, and that can strengthen the organism’s resistance against a number of diseases such as cancer Dittany or hop majoram The plant’s healing properties were first discovered when goats were seen rubbing their bodies against it to heal accidental wounds. Today, dittany is mainly used as a tea or a therapeutic sip for the stomach Olives A great supplement to a healthy diet, olives contain a significant amount of calcium, iron, magnesium and phosphorus and are a great source of vitamin A. Crete is famous for the throumba olive from the town of Rethymnon Cheese Special thanks to Mitato, an e-shop of traditional and organic Cretan products (www.mitato.gr) 114 / AIRBALTIC.COM Rumour has it that Cretans consume the most cheese per capita in the world. Anthotyros, translated as ‘flower cheese’, is a traditional low-fat white cheese made of sheep’s or goats’ milk. When fresh, it is soft, sweet and mild and can be used in pies or eaten with honey. When aged, it becomes harder and drier. Salt is usually added to make it even more savoury Snails Contrary to popular belief, snails are not just a French delicacy. Cretan families eat snails at least once a week. This low-calorie, high-protein food is rich in omega-3 acids and possesses anti-thrombotic and antiinflammatory properties. Snails are enjoyed fried or boubourista, in the traditional Cretan style SIXT and airBaltic. A dream team between heaven and earth. (Earn 500 Baltic Miles with every car rental. Sixt welcomes you in Latvia, Estonia, Lithuania, Finland and all around the world. Find your nearest Sixt location at sixt.com) sx07425_Anzeige_BalticMiles.indd 1 WELCOME TO THE FIRST OFFICIAL KONTINENTAL HOCKEY LEAGUE BAR! • LIVE EVENTS AND GREAT ATMOSPHERE • EXCLUSIVE DESIGN INSPIRED BY ICE-HOCKEY • LARGEST SPORTS BAR IN THE BALTICS WITH 34 HD SCREENS • WATCH YOUR FAVORITE SPORTS - FOLLOW OUR PROGRAMME OR ASK FOR GAME ON DEMAND TABLE RESERVATIONS: +371 67772270 R A D I S S O N B LU H O T E L L AT V I J A ( E N T R A N C E F R O M B R I V I B A S S T R E E T ) 15.05.2012 17:20:53 airBaltic Umea Vaasa Moscow Sheremetyevo Moscow Domodedovo Dublin* Amsterdam Chisinau* Odessa* Budapest* Venice* Simferopol* Nice* Burgas** Tashkent* Bari* Baku* Tenerife** Athens* Antalya** Heraklion** * Seasonal flights. ** Operated in cooperation with tour operator Tez Tour. Hurghada** Sharm el-Sheikh** Welcome aboard airBaltic! 118 airBaltic news / 120 Behind the scenes / 122 Service classes / 123 BalticMiles 126 Meals / 127 Entertainment / 128 Fleet / 129 Flight map / 132 Contacts PHOTO ALAMY airBaltic / NEWS Odessa Academy Opera and Ballet House In brief 1/ Flights to Odessa and Dublin return for the summer 2/ airBaltic and Air France team up for increased global reach 3/ Check in through your mobile phone 4/ Carry more with extra baggage allowance 5/ Get on your BalticBike in Riga and Jūrmala 118 / AIRBALTIC.COM 1/ Flights to Odessa and Dublin return for the summer June sees two popular seasonal destinations return to airBaltic’s flight schedule: Dublin and Odessa. Dublin, the Irish capital, needs little introduction. Renowned as a cheerful and lively city, the famous ‘craic’ is also becoming an increasingly important centre for business and culture, with some outstanding theatres and music venues. Odessa, for its part, retains the elegant aura of a Tsarist-era resort, while serving as a key city of Ukrainian commerce. Flights from Riga to both cities operate four times per week and come with good connections from the other two Baltic States and Scandinavia. One-way tickets from Riga to both cities start at 75 EUR. Transit tickets through Riga from Scandinavia and the Baltics start at 79 EUR. airBaltic / NEWS 2/ airBaltic and Air France team up for increased global reach 4/ Carry more with extra baggage allowance airBaltic has signed a cooperation agreement with Air France that will bring more than 150 destinations worldwide within reach through Air France’s major Paris hub. Customers will now get much better connections to a number of major cities in France, including Bordeaux, Lyon and Marseille, as well as to many other exciting foreign destinations where no direct flights from Riga are possible, such as Tunis, Casablanca or Lisbon. In the same way, Riga and the Baltic States will be much more easily accessible to French travellers than ever before. En route! Summer holidays sometimes call for more than a standard baggage allowance, whether it’s packing for the whole family or bringing back more souvenirs than planned. That’s why airBaltic is pleased to offer two new options that let you increase your baggage weight limit. The first option is to take more than one bag, with each additional bag costing 20 EUR per direction. Each bag that you add will increase your standard 20 kg allowance by 5 kg. So if you take two bags, both bags together can weigh 25 kg, three bags can weigh up to 30 kg and so on. The second option is to pay a flat fee of 25 EUR for every 5 kg by which you exceed your 20 kg limit. It’s worth remembering that paying in advance is much cheaper than paying when you get to the airport. 3/ Check in through your mobile phone The next time you fly airBaltic, save yourself even more time and inconvenience by checking in through our mobile website at www.airbalticmobi.com or airBaltic iPhone App. You won’t need a printer when using the mobile check-in, as you will receive a paperless boarding pass on your mobile phone screen that will allow you to head straight to your gate at the airport. Mobile check-in is currently available for airBaltic flights from Riga, Helsinki, Oulu, Paris and Moscow Domodedovo. Other cities will join the list soon. Mobile check-in starts at 12:00 (local time) on the day before your flight and ends 90 minutes before departure. For full details of airBaltic’s baggage policy and how to increase your allowance, please visit www.airbaltic.com and click on the Travel information section. 5/ Get on your BalticBike in Riga and Jūrmala A bicycle is the best way to enjoy summer in the city, so if you are visiting Riga as a tourist and want to go on a sightseeing trip, or just fancy a fast and fun way to keep fit, then BalticBike bicycle rental is the answer. BalticBikes are available at 16 rental stands in Riga and three in Jurmala, 24 hours a day. To rent a bicycle, first register free of charge at www.balticbike.lv or by phone at (+371) 67788333 (registration fee 0.90 EUR). Then head to the nearest rental stand, call and give us the number of your selected bicycle. Unlock it by using the unique code that we will give to you. To return the bicycle, lock it at any BalticBike rental stand and call us to terminate the rental. Rental fees are 1 EUR per hour or 8.60 EUR per 24 hours. Payment by credit card. More information at www.balticbike.com. BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 119 airBaltic / BEHIND THE SCENES Text by Kate Krumina | Photo by Lauris Viksne, f64 James Knaus, Instructor and examiner on airBaltic’s B737 Classic Full Flight Simulator Filling the log book with most challenging miles Last year, more than 1500 pilots from over 30 European countries received their qualifications at the airBaltic Training centre. The huge white B737 Classic Full Flight Simulator, a 10-million-dollar piece of technology, serves both as a means to train new pilots and as a testing device for experienced pilots to revalidate their licences Twice a year , James Knaus, a pilot of Australian origin, takes the student’s seat in the simulator to keep himself in top flying form. The rest of the year, he instructs the younger generation and checks the proficiency of his fellow pilots, while continuing to fly airBaltic Boeing aircraft. The cockpit simulator – which looks and feels identical to that of a real Boeing aircraft – prepares pilots for the worst situations, including rough takeoffs and landings. James makes sure that his students and fellow pilots are well-challenged, in order to perfect 120 / AIRBALTIC.COM their reaction to situations that they hopefully will never encounter. One session lasts for four hours, during which two trainees work as a captain and first officer, then switching roles. Any aviation map can be loaded onto the simulator software, although mostly European routes are exploited. Until five years ago, airBaltic pilots worked their simulator hours either in Stockholm or in Berlin, two of the closest simulator options. Now the airBaltic Training hangar-like buildings are used by both Swedish and German pilots, among many other nationalities. What hooked you to aviation and when did this happen? My father is a pilot. That means that back home in Melbourne, I grew up in an aviation environment. I started gliding at the age of 14 and entered flight school at 18. The initial schooling takes two years, then you start flying small aircraft and gradually build up on your experience. It is one thing to master a skill and quite another to pass this knowledge on to others. Not everybody can be a teacher. Yes, instructing is very challenging – passing on new information to someone with little airBaltic / BEHIND THE SCENES or no experience requires certain skills. When teaching from scratch, you’ve got to be exact about the details. It can be easy to make a mistake in the way you explain something, which will then take lots of airBaltic Training centre Built in 2007 by the SAS Flight Academy Bought in 2010 by airBaltic T he B737 flight simulator is run by 20 instructors uring the first year of running the flight D simulator, airBaltic Training served 93% of airBaltic pilots. T his year, the percentage of external training has increased by over 80% compared to the same period in 2011 and the flight simulator is mostly serving pilots from other airlines, originating from almost all European countries. I n order to become an instructor and examiner on a B737 flight simulator, you need a licence to fly a Boeing 737 aircraft, about 1500 flying hours in your log book, and you need to pass an instructor’s test. effort to correct. As a student, you first learn the basic skills so that they become second nature. Most people always remember their first instructor. My first instructor was back home in Melbourne and it’s not likely I will ever forget him. What characteristics are necessary to be a flight instructor? This question is always asked at instructor interviews. I’d say it’s important to be calm, firm and to show confidence. You need the ability to handle and think multiple tasks at once. You need to be focused, dedicated and enthusiastic about teaching, and you need to pay attention to every small detail. Patience and the ability to instill confidence in your students become vital. You must know the balance in situations when students do something wrong. Point out the mistake but don’t criticise too much, so that their self-esteem does not suffer. OK, but the means of training require pushing your students out of their comfort zone. It most certainly does and people react very differently. Some might even panic. Every pilot, even the most experienced flyer, must undergo a testing session in the simulator twice a year. Even the most seasoned pilots get nervous with the test. I also have to be checked twice a year, and when sitting in the simulator as an examinee, I also feel a certain amount of tension. But that only shows that I care about my job and about improving my standards to become a better and more experienced pilot. The B737 simulator has 413 programmed malfunctions. Which ones are most frequently used in the training and tests? We have a program that calculates what students should know at different stages of their training, but the most common malfunction we train them for is ‘one engine out’. That means the student must approach and land with only one functioning engine. As the second emergency I’d name loss of pressurisation in the cabin due to a system failure. I’m expecting my students to put on their oxygen masks and to do so in 15-18 seconds, otherwise they would lose consciousness at high altitude. Of course, the air pressure remains constant in the simulator, but I need to see the students calmly and confidently handle this situation, starting with the realization that they need to put their masks on. I’d name wind shear as the third manoeuvre we want pilots to be prepared for. Usually I give it after takeoff and before landing and see whether the student applies the correct procedures. Losing speed accidentally is another situation I train my students a lot for, as well as traffic collision avoidance –when there is another aircraft heading in our direction. Judging from the outside [as we talk, two students are undergoing a training session in the simulator, which is shaking and moving about violently], I’d say that turbulence is the number one task you make the students cope with in a simulator. Turbulence is actually an everyday situation. It’s considered to be normal. Of course, there is extreme turbulence and there are things to do to avoid it – either climbing or descending. If turbulence is unavoidable, then the pilot has to make sure the cabin service stops and everybody has fastened their seatbelts. But in terms of testing, turbulence is not very interesting. Besides, extreme turbulence is pretty rare these days. BO -- IATA instructor led classroom courses at airBaltic Training -- Airport Extreme weather operations 19 – 22 June 16 – 20 July 22 – 24 - - IOSA-SMS Requirements August 03 – 07 Project Management -September Essentials 12 – 14 Airport Slots and -September Scheduling - - DGR Initial ------------ 17 – 21 Ground Operations Documentation and ISAGO September 24 – 28 SGHA & SLA Workshop September 08 – 11 Airline Sales & Key October Account Management 15 – 17 Cargo Quality October Management 17 – 19 Advanced Train The October Trainer Internal Audit for Ground 23 – 26 October Service Providers 29 – 31 DGR recurrent October 07 – 09 Training needs November assessment 12 – 16 Emergency November Planning & Response Management 19 – 23 Aviation Internal Auditor November 26 – 20 DGR Initial November Tel: (+371) 67668512, (+371) 26116606 skype: airbaltictraining e-mail: [email protected] www.airbaltictraining.com BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 121 airBaltic / SERVICE CLASSES A class to suit your needs airBaltic is offering a new concept of three travel classes in order to suit the needs of a greater variety of passengers. Now, when booking your flight at www.airbaltic.com, you will be able to choose between the following ticket types: Business, Economy or Basic. Compare the travel conditions and services offered and choose the class that suits you best. One-way ticket price example Riga – Barcelona Business Economy Basic from EUR 435 from EUR 135 from EUR 69 Travel date/time change EUR 50 per direction Cancellation with refund EUR 100 per ticket Advance seat reservation from EUR 3 Hand baggage 2 pieces 1 piece from EUR 3 1 piece EUR 30 per direction online or EUR 40 at the airport EUR 20 per bag per direction online or EUR 30 at the airport, 1 bag 20 kg, 2 bags 25 kg EUR 30 per direction online or EUR 40 at the airport EUR 10 EUR 10 Meals and drinks from EUR 9 for hot meal, preorder or buy on board from EUR 9 for hot meal, preorder or buy on board Inflight entertainment iPad 2 EUR 9 EUR 9 Economy cabin Economy cabin from EUR 50 from EUR 50 5 Points for each EUR spent 1 Point for each EUR spent Checked-in baggage 3 pieces, 30 kg total Sports equipment 1 piece Priority check-in 1 piece, 20 kg Security fast track Business lounge International press Seating Cabin forefront Adjacent seat kept free BalticMiles Points earned from ticket purchase 10 Points for each EUR spent Available free of charge 122 / AIRBALTIC.COM Not possible airBaltic / BalticMiles Join BalticMiles the airBaltic Frequent Flyer Programme BalticMiles is the largest multipartner loyalty programme in the Baltics. Earn BalticMiles Points by doing everyday things like shopping, travelling and eating at restaurants. Exchange the Points you have collected for airBaltic flights and other benefits. Fly airBaltic and earn Membership levels 10 Points for each EUR spent on a Business Class ticket. There are three BalticMiles membership levels: 5 Points for each EUR spent on an Economy Class ticket. Basic 1 Point for each EUR spent on a Basic Class ticket. VIP Retrospective Points crediting If you forgot to provide your BalticMiles number when booking your flight or at the check-in, you can request the Points for flights flown within last six months by contacting the BalticMiles Member Service. New members can request Points for flights that took place up to 30 days before the registration date. Spend Points on airBaltic flights Exchange your Points for free flight tickets starting from only 4200 Points. Upgrade your Economy Class ticket to Business Class starting from 8000 Points. Executive The more you fly, the higher your membership status is, the greater the privileges: such as advance seat reservation online, priority check-in, fast-track security control, access to business lounges and free baggage allowance. Your membership level is defined by the Status Points earned or number of flights flown with airBaltic during the period of 12 months. How to apply? Get your BalticMiles card on board airBaltic flight and start earning Points immediately from meal and souvenir purchases. Afterwards, register the card online at register.balticmiles.com and receive 50 bonus Points! Or fill in the online application form at www.balticmiles.com and your membership card will be posted to you. BalticMiles Member Service In Latvia: +371 6728 0280 | In Estonia: +372 630 6660 | In Lithuania: +370 7005 5665 [email protected] | www.balticmiles.com BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 123 airBaltic / BalticMiles ew N The Economist ew From business to politics, technology and the arts, The Economist is a magazine renowned for its breadth of coverage and sharp analysis. A very special introductory triple Points offer – subscribe today and receive up to 15 000 Points! Find out more at www.economist.com N The perfect retreat for business and leisure trips, Domina Inn hotels in Riga and Tallinn combine historical beauty and contemporary elegance. Find out more at www.dominahotels.com Earn 500 Points for each stay Earn 10 Points for each LVL Earn 7 Points for each EUR Earn up to 15 000 Points ew N Domina Inn spent on conference services Vino Rosso ew A perfect place for an Italian-style getaway in the Latvian countryside with a view of the magnificent Koknese Castle ruins, the country hotel and restaurant Vino Rosso offers concept rooms named after roses and an exquisite Mediterranean menu and superb wines. N Zvejnieka dēls Latvians have since times immemorial been a strong and tough fishing tribe. This motive has inspired books and films, the most prominent being Zvejnieka dēls – The Fisherman’s Son. The name is now proudly borne by possibly the best fish restaurant in Riga. Find out more at www.vinorosso.lv Earn 500 Points for each hotel stay Earn 10 Points for each LVL spent at the restaurant and on other services 124 / AIRBALTIC.COM And a very special introduction offer – 1000 Points for each stay and prices starting from: Riga – EUR 64, Tallinn – EUR 59 upon availability until June 30! Find out more www.zvejniekadels.lv Earn 10 Points for each LVL spent airBaltic / BalticMiles ew N Fahle Restaurant&Café Taste simple and elegant European meals at the officially nearest restaurant to Tallinn airport – it is just a five minute ride from the terminal and will certainly add some flavour to your trip! Great to spend There are more than 3000 rewards to choose from the shop.balticmiles.com – all payable in Points or with combination of Points and money. Worldwide delivery. Find out more at www.fahlerestoran.ee Kiwi All Day and Night Cream 50 ml Earn 5 Points for each EUR spent 5 259 Points ew N Queens Experience an authentic British atmosphere in the heart of Old Riga – at Queens public house and restaurant with a gorgeous Victorian interior. Have a delicious meal or choose from a sophisticated selection of more than 18 tap beers and earn Points! Lafuma Backpack Verdon 50 15 485 Points Find out more at www.queens.lv Earn 10 Points for each LVL spent Italtrike Bi&Ci Balance Bike Samsonite ew N Founded in 1910, Samsonite has been an exclusive innovator throughout the years and created ever so stylish high quality solutions for the world traveller and is now the leader of lightness in the luggage industry of the 21st century. 18 914 Points Find out more at www.samsonite.com sWaP Classic Watch-Phone Earn 8 Points for each LVL spent ew N 54 974 Points Joker Klubs Joker Klubs in Riga is where sports, relaxation and beauty come together. Whether it is a game of squash, a swim in the pool or a body treatment, or maybe just a night out with friends, bowling and drinks, Joker Klubs will recharge your batteries! iPad 2 Wi-Fi, 16GB 105 346 Points Find out more at www.jokerklubs.lv Earn 10 Points for each LVL spent All the prices displayed include shipping costs to Latvia. Prices and availability of rewards are subject to change and may vary by delivery country. BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 125 airBaltic / MEALS Onboard menu Business Class On airBaltic flights, Business Class customers enjoy a complimentary full meal that includes an appetizer, a main course, dessert (except on flights that are shorter than 1 hour, where snacks are served instead), and a wide range of beverages and alcoholic drinks. Our Business Class menu has been created by the Latvian star chef Mārtiņš Rītiņš. As president of Slow Food Riga, he works directly with farmers to bring local, organic, traditional and seasonal foods onto each flight. Economy Class Economy Class customers can purchase a selection of snacks, sandwiches, paninis, croissants and drinks (soft and alcoholic) from the airBaltic Cafe. Hot meals are also available on flights longer than two hours. Order your meal before the flight If you would like to choose from a much wider selection of meals than available on board, then order your meal before your flight. Our extensive pre-order menu offers more than 20 different meals, including special dietary and kids’ dishes. You can pre-order your meal while you book your flight ticket or anytime later, up to 24 hours before the flight, under the Manage booking section at www.airbaltic.com. Breakfast Cold meals from from 9 EUR • Pancakes, croissant • Jam and fruits • Coffee and orange juice 126 / AIRBALTIC.COM 9 EUR • Shrimp salad with cherry tomatoes and quail eggs • Dessert • White wine or orange juice Hot meals from 9 EUR • Pork medallions with mushrooms, fried potatoes • Dessert • Red wine or orange juice airBaltic / ENTERTAINMENT Inflight entertainment On flights longer than 2 hours 30 minutes, passengers can rent iPad 2 tablet computers pre-loaded with movies, cartoons, serials, music and games. TV series: CSI Miami | Desperate Housewives | Two and a Half Men | Game of Thrones | Mad Men | Breaking Bad | Falling Skies | True Blood | Top Gear | The Office Cartoons: Looney Tunes | The Batman | The Simpsons | Family Guy | Puppet Animation Films Mission: Impossible – Ghost Protocol Drive Action, Thriller Director: Brad Bird Cast: Tom Cruise, Jeremy Renner, Ving Rhames, Simon Pegg, Paula Patton Drama, Thriller Director: Nicholas Winding Refn Cast: Ryan Gosling, Carey Mulligan, Bryan Cranston, Christina Hendricks Blamed for the terrorist bombing of the Kremlin, IMF operative Ethan Hunt is disavowed along with the rest of the agency when the President initiates “Ghost Protocol”. Left without any resources or backup, Ethan must find a way to prevent another attack. Movie, directed by Nicolas Winding, about a Hollywood stunt performer who moonlights as a wheelman for criminals, discovers that a contract has been put on him after a heist gone wrong. Winner of the Best Director award at Cannes Film Festival. 13+ 133 min 16+ 100 min Sherlock Holmes: A Game of Shadows Hugo Action, Adventure Director: Guy Ritchie Cast: Robert Downey Jr., Jude Law, Gilles Lellouche, Eddie Marsan Adventure, Drama Director: Martin Scorsese Cast: Asa Butterfield, Chloë Grace Moretz, Christopher Lee Guy Ritchie helms a new actionpacked adventure, following the world’s most famous detective, Sherlock Holmes, and his trusted associate, Dr. Watson, as they match wits with their arch-nemesis, the criminal genius Moriarty. Martin Scorsese invites you to join him on a journey to a magical world set in 1930s Paris. Based on Brian Selznick’s, “The Invention of Hugo Cabret,” Hugo is the astonishing adventure of a resourceful boy whose quest to unlock a secret left to him by his father. 13+ 129 min 10+ 107 min Young Adult Madagascar Comedy, Drama Director: Jason Reitman Cast: Charlize Theron, Patrick Wilson, J.K. Simmons, Elizabeth Reaser Animation, Comedy Director: Eric Darnell & Tom McGrath Cast: David Schwimmer, Jada Pinkett Smith, Ben Stiller, Chris Rock A writer Mavis Gary returns to her hometown to reclaim her happily married high school sweetheart. When returning home proves more difficult than she thought, Mavis forms an unusual bond with a former classmate who hasn’t quite gotten over high school, either. This computer-animated comedy stars animals from New York’s Central Park zoo. Having spent their entire lives in blissful captivity, they are in for a shock when they are unexpectedly shipped to Africa and are shipwrecked on the exotic island of Madagascar! 16+ 94 min 7+ 86 min BALTIC OUTLOOK / JUNE 2012 / 127 airBaltic / FLEET NEWS Boeing 757-200 Boeing 737-300 Number of seats 142/144/146 Max take-off weight 63 metric tons Max payload 14.2 metric tons Length 32.18 m Wing span 31.22 m Cruising speed 800 km/h Commercial range 3500 km Fuel consumption 3000 l/h Engine CFM56-3C-1 Boeing 737-500 Number of seats 120 Max take-off weight 58 metric tons Max payload 13.5 metric tons Length 29.79 m Wing span 28.9 m Cruising speed 800 km/h Q400 NextGen 76 29.6 metric tons 8.6 metric tons Fokker 50 Number of seats 46/50/52 Max take-off weight 20.8 metric tons Max payload 4.9 metric tons 32.83 m Length 25.3 m 28.42 m Wing span 29.0 m 667 km/h Cruising speed 520 km/h Commercial range 3500 km 2084 km Commercial range 1300 km Fuel consumption 3000 l/h 1074 l/h Fuel consumption 800 l/h Engine CFM56-3 airBaltic codeshare partners 128 / AIRBALTIC.COM P&W 150A Engine P&W 125 B Kittila Rovaniemi Lulea Kuusamo Skelleftea Umea * Seasonal flights. ** Operated in cooperation with tour operator Tez Tour. Kuopio Kristiansund Sundsvall Borlange Bergen Tartu Visby Oskarshamn Halmstad Kristianstad Gdansk Dublin* Hanover Donetsk Budapest* Chisinau* Geneva* Odessa* Trieste Venice* Simferopol* Belgrade La Coruna Ovideo Santander Bilbao Bucharest Nice* Vigo Burgas** Pescara Naples Madrid Menorca Valencia Ibiza Bari* Brindisi Palma de Mallorca Alicante Seville Granada Malaga Santa Cruz de Tenerife Las Palmas Casablanca Tenerife** Athens* Antalya** Heraklion** Beirut Amma Sharm el-Sheik Arkhangelsk Donetsk Simferopol* Almaty Tashkent* Yerevan Baku* Dushanbe Beirut Amman Sharm el-Sheikh** Tromso * Seasonal flights. ** Operated in cooperation with tour operator Tez Tour. Kittila Rovaniemi Kuusamo Lulea Skelleftea Umea Kristiansund Kuopio Sundsvall Borlange Tartu Visby Oskarshamn Halmstad Kristianstad Tashkent* Gdansk Baku* Dublin* Hanover Donetsk Simferopol* Budapest* Geneva* Chisinau* Odessa* Trieste Venice* Belgrade Santander La Coruna Bilbao Bucharest Nice* Ovideo Vigo Burgas** Pescara Naples Madrid Valencia Ibiza Menorca Palma de Mallorca Bari* Brindisi Alicante Seville Tenerife** Granada Malaga Athens* Sharm el-Sheikh** Heraklion** Antalya** Hurghada** airBaltic / CONTACTS Country/City Ticket offices Airport Ticket Offices Country/City Ticket offices Armenia Greece Yerevan Baltic Travel 105/1 Teryan str. ☎ +(374) 10 514301 Athens Tal Aviation 44 Ihous str. 17564 - P.Faliro ☎ +30 210 9341500 F: +30 210 9341620 [email protected] AUSTRIA Vienna airBaltic Germany Hauptstrasse 117, D-10827 Berlin ☎ 0820600830 local calls (EUR 0.17/min) [email protected] Airport Schwechat Terminal 2 Airport Ticket Office Celebi Ground Handling ☎ +431 700736394 AZERBAIJAN Baku Improtex Travel 16. S. Vurgun Str. Baku AZ1000, Azarbaijan ☎ +994 124989239 [email protected] [email protected] Heydar Aliyev International Airport Airport Ticket Office Silk Way Travel North Terminal ☎ +994124972600 BELARUS Minsk airBaltic Belarus 19 Pobeditelei Av., 6 ☎ +375 172269043 [email protected] Airport Minsk 2 3rd floor Airport Ticket Office airBaltic ☎ +375 172792568, ☎ +44 7792568 Airport Zaventem Departure Hall ☎ +32 (0) 27230667 Airport Ticket Office Avia Partner DENMARK Budapest Tensi Aviation Kft. Komjadi Bela utca 1. ☎ +36 1 3451526 F: +36 1 9991466 [email protected] Airport Copenhagen International Terminal 3 Departure Hall Airport Ticket Office SAS Billund Billund Airport Departure Hall Airport Ticket Office ☎ +45 76505205 ESTONIA Airport Tallinn Main Terminal, Departure Hall Airport Ticket Office airBaltic /Tallinn Airport GH Helsinki Helsinki-Vantaa Airport Terminal 1 Airport Ticket Office airBaltic / Havas Lappeenranta Lappeenranta Airport Oulu Airport Oulun Lentoasema Airport Ticket Office Airpro OY Tampere Airport Tampere-Pirkkala Airport Ticket Office Airpro OY Turku Airport Turku Airport Ticket Office Airpro OY Vaasa Vaasa Airport Airport Ticket Office Airpro OY FRANCE Nice Aeroport Nice Cote D’azur Terminal 1 Airport Ticket Office Lufthansa Ticket Desk Paris Airport Charles de Gaulles Terminal 2D Airport Ticket Office Swissport Services CDG Tel Aviv Caspi Aviation ltd 1 Ben Yehuda st. Tel-Aviv 63801 ☎ +972 3 5100213 /4 F: +972 (3) 5108365 [email protected] Airport Tbilisi Airport Ticket Office Discovery Ltd ☎ +995 32433155 ☎ +995 32433188 ITALY Bari Bari Airport Airport Ticket Office Bari Palese Milan Linate Airport Airport Ticket Office A.R.E. SrL Rome Leonardo de Vinci – Fiumicino Airport Terminal 3, Departure Hall Airport Ticket Office A.R.E SRL Venice Marco Polo Airport Airport Ticket Office A.R.E. SRL Almaty Cross Way Kabanbay Batyr str. 112 ☎ +7-727-2799916 Fax: +7-727-2799919 [email protected] Berlin airBaltic Germany Hauptstrasse 117, D-10827 Berlin ☎ 0900 124 7225 (EUR 0.69/min German landline – mobile calls may be different) [email protected] Airport Berlin-Tegel Main Terminal Airport Ticket Office GlobeGround Berlin Opposite Gate 4/5 Dusseldorf Airport Dusseldorf Terminal B Airport Ticket Office AHS ☎ +49 (0) 2114216275 LATVIA Riga airBaltic Corporation 14 Terbatas Str., Riga ☎ 90001100 (0.37 LVL/min, local calls only) ☎ +371 67006006 (for abroad calls) [email protected] Riga International Airport Main Terminal Airport Ticket Office airBaltic / Havas ☎ 90001100 (0.37 LVL/min, local calls only) ☎ +371 67006006 (for abroad calls) Vilnius airBaltic Corporation 12 A. Vienuolio, Vilnius ☎ 1825 (2.54 LTL/min, local calls only) ☎ +370 70055660 (for abroad calls) [email protected] Vilnius International Airport Airport Ticket Office Litcargus [email protected] Palanga Palanga Airport Airport Ticket Office Orlaiviu Aptarnavimo Agentura ☎ +370 46052300 F: +370 46056401 Kaunas Kaunas Airport Airport Ticket Office Litcargus ☎ +370 37750195 MOLDOVA Chisinau Moldavian SRL - AirService Bd. Stefan cel Mare 3, MD-2001 Chisinau ☎ +373 22 549339 ☎ +549340, 549342 F: +373 22549341 [email protected] Amsterdam Chisinau Airport Airport Ticket Office Moldavian Airlines Departure Hall ☎ +373 22525506 Amsterdam Schiphol Airport Air Agencies Holland Ticketdesk Departure Hall 3, opposite checkin 22 ☎ +31 20 3161945 / 46 Fax: +31 20 316 1998 Oslo Oslo Airport SAS Oslo Departure Hall Airport Ticket Office SGS Aalesund Aalesund Airport Airport Ticket Office Roros Flyservice 6040 Vigra ☎ +47 70 30 25 60 Bergen/Stavanger Bergen Airport – Flesland Stavanger Airport Airport Ticket Office Aviator POLAND Frankfurt Airport Frankfurt Airport Ticket Office AHS Terminal 2, Hall E, Desk 939 ☎ +49 69 690 61465 Warsaw Hamburg Airport Fuhlsbuttel Terminal 1, Departure Hall Airport Ticket Office AHS ☎ +49 (0) 4050753672 Munich Airport Munich Terminal 1 Airport Ticket Office AHS ☎ +49/89 975 92569 Moscow airBaltic Russia 28 Tverskaya Str., Building 2 Business Center “Amerop” 125009 Moscow ☎ +7 (495) 2217213 [email protected] Warsaw Airport Airport Ticket Office BGS RUSSIA International Airport Sheremetjevo Terminal E Airport Ticket Office DAVS ☎ +7 (495) 9564661 International Airport Domodedovo Airport Ticket Office DAVS Ticketing counters no 161; 177 ☎ +7 (495) 2871501, +7 (495) 7871697 If there is no local ticket office phone number indicated and you would like to contact airBaltic reservations, please call ☎ +371 67006006; +370 70055660. 132 / AIRBALTIC.COM Airport Khrabrovo Airport Ticket Office airBaltic / Aviapartner SPAIN Barcelona Airport El Prat de Llobregat Terminal 1 Airport Ticket Office Lufthansa Ticket Desk Stockholm Arlanda Airport Airport Ticket Ofiice airBaltic / Havas International Terminal 5 ☎ +46 (0)8 797 93 23 SWITZERLAND Zurich airBaltic Germany Hauptstrasse 117, D-10827 Berlin ☎ 0840600830 local calls [email protected] Airport Zurich (Kloten) Departure Hall Airport Ticket Office CGS Terminal 2 ☎ +41 438166739 TAJIKISTAN Dushanbe Global Trans 734013, Lokhuti Str. 16 apt 7 ☎ +992 37 2271055; +992 37 2279444 ☎ +992 42 7800975; +992 42 7800976 (local calls only) F: +992 37 2274887 [email protected] TURKEY NORWAY GERMANY Kaliningrad Stockholm Ben-Gurion International Airport Airport Ticket Office Laufer Aviation GHI Level 3, Terminal 3 ☎ +972 39754076 NETHERLANDS GEORGIA Airport Ticket Offices Airport Pulkovo Terminal 2 Airport Ticket Office LTD North-West Transport Agency SWEDEN ISRAEL LITHUANIA FINLAND Tbilisi Discovery Travel Ltd/airBaltic GSA 72 Paliashvili st. Tbilisi ☎ (+995 32) 15 29 99 / 97 ☎ F: (+995 32) 15 29 98 [email protected] Budapest Airport Airport Ticket Office Celebi Ground Handling Hungary Kazakhstan Copenhagen Tallinn airBaltic Estonia 1/3 – 305 Estonia pst. 10143 Tallinn ☎ 17107 (0.51 EUR/min, local calls only) [email protected] Athens International Airport Airport Ticket Office Goldair Handling Country/City Ticket offices St.Petersburg airBaltic Bolshaya Morskaya Str. 53/8 190000 St.Petersburg ☎ +7 (812) 5700597 F: +7 (812) 5718654 [email protected] Hungary BELGIUM Brussels Air Agencies Belgium 153 A Vilvoordelaan 1930 Zaventem ☎ +32 (0) 27126427 [email protected] Airport Ticket Offices Istanbul Airmark Gumussuyu Is Merkezi No:11/4, TR-34437 Taksim ☎ + 90 212 444 1472 F: + 90 212 245 4486 [email protected] Airport Istanbul Ataturk Airport Ticket Office AirMark International Terminal, Departure Floor ☎ +90 212 465 5757 1927 UKRAINE Kiev airBaltic Ukraine 52 Bohdana Khmelnytshkoho Str. 01030 Kiev ☎ +380 442382649/68 [email protected] Airport Borispol Terminal B Airport Ticket Office Swissport Ukraine LL ☎ +380 445 916 902 Odessa Odessa Airport Airport Ticket Office Londonskaya ☎ +380 482 490 078 Simferopol Simferopol Airport Airport Ticket Office Krymaviaservice ☎ +380 652 595321 UNITED KINGDOM London USA New York airBaltic USA 1 Penn Plaza, Suite 1416 NY 10119 ☎ +1 - 877 359 2258 ☎ +1 - 646 300 7727 [email protected] Chicago 101 N.Wacker Dr Suite 350 Chicago, Il 60606 ☎ +1 - 877 359 2258 ☎ +1 - 312 269 9333 F: +1 - 312 269 0222 [email protected] Los Angeles 16250, Ventura Blvd Suite 115 Encino, CA 91436 ☎ +1 - 818 990 9215 ☎ +1 - 855 284 2967 F: +1 - 818 501 2098 [email protected] Houston 3050 Post Oak Boulevard Suite 1320 Houston, TX 77056, USA ☎ +1 - 713 626 0134 ☎ +1 - 855 284 2967 F: +1 - 713 626 1905 [email protected] UZBEKISTAN Tashkent Apex Dolores Network Turkestanskaya Str. 8 Tashkent 100015 ☎/F: +998 711208980 [email protected] Airport Gatwick Airport Ticket Office Skybreak Terminal S Lounge. Hotels in the Baltics, Russia and CIS 2x Tallinn, 4x Riga, 1x Klaipeda, 2x Vilnius, 3x Moscow, 1x Sochi, 2x St Petersburg, 1x Kaliningrad, 1x Kiev, 1x Alushta, 1x Astana, 1x Batumi, 1x Tbilisi, 1x Tashkent radissonblu.com Radisson Blu Resort, Arc 1950 Winter designed by Radisson Blu Hotels & Resorts. Whether you enjoy the great outdoors or intimate stylish surroundings, Radisson Blu Hotels & Resorts are a perfect base to go on your own personal voyage of discovery. Choose from spa, ski, beach or golf hotels as well as hotels in inspiring natural destinations or city centres. Experience first-class facilities and Free high-speed Internet access in over 200 hotels around Europe, Middle East & Africa.
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