Slides - European Sensory Network

THE PURPOSE OF SENSORY
ANALYSIS in R & D
- DERMO-COSMETIC -
PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Irène BACLE
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
R & D in a “Non Food” Industry
1. Formulation of new cosmetic products : Research of
active ingredients, raw materials, … following
regulatory affairs …
2. Safety assessment at several levels : toxicology,
pharmacology, chemical analysis, microbiology, …
3. Clinical Evaluation of formulation :
- Sensory Analysis
- Use-Tests
- Safety and Efficacy Tests
- Clinical Tests
4. Manufacturing
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Summary
1. What is Sensory Analysis in Cosmetology
2. Main Sensory Assessments and Profile
3. Applications
4 Conclusion
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Sensory Analysis,
Why ?
F to understand the expectations of consumers and offer targeted products
according to their needs and their likings
Who is interested in ?
F the Development teams : defining the adapted organoleptic criteria and
forecasting the consumer’s satisfaction
F the Marketing teams : supporting the purpose of the products
F the Quality Control teams : comparing to a reference
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
What is Sensory Analysis ?
The tool of comparative methods which enables to evaluate the products
organoleptic criteria by using the five senses :
SMELLING (perfumes, odors, …)
HEARING (closing packaging, …)
TASTE (flavor, aroma of a lip stick, …)
SIGHT (skin color, product color on the skin of make up, …)
SOMESTHESIA : touch : roughness, kinetic : elasticity, thermal :
hot / cold, chemical : itching, tightness, …
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Sensory Analysis, HOW ?
As in Food Industry, according to the questions, the
protocols and the human panels are different :
Do differences exist
between the
products ?
- pair-tests, triangletests, 2 by 5-tests
- ranking-tests
« semi-trained » panel
> 36
How are these
products different ?
Describe and quantify
the differences
SENSORY
PROFILES
« experts » Panel > 15
Which one do you
prefer ? How much
do you like them ?
- Preference tests
- Use tests
- Clinical acceptability
« naïve » targeted
panel > 60
DISCRIMINATIVE
TESTS
DESCRIPTIVE TESTS
HEDONIC TESTS
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
USE-TESTS
« Pleasure » assessment during using period by “naïve” panels, targeted on their
using consumptions
= hedonic profile =
Satisfaction % according to standards established in the Pierre Fabre
database
10 0
90
80
80
70
60
80
89
96
90
83
80
50
70
40
30
20
10
0
globa l a c c e pta bility
s pr e a ding out
s a tis f .
pe ne tr a tion s a tis f .
c olor s a tis f .
s me ll s a tis f .
c ons is ta nc y s a tis f . pa c ka ging s a tis f .
inte ntion of
pur c ha s ing
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
PERFUMES
SELECTION
- Preference tests (ranking)
- Evocation
- Quality Control
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Descriptors and Sensory Profile
The listing of terms necessary to describe cosmetic products is
established in consensus for each product type :
hygiene, body, face, hair care…
At application
Just after application
Long time after application
Quantified and measured using un-structured scales
very weak /________________________________________/ very strong
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Sensory PROFILE
Image of 2 body care products
Application
. Comparison = similarities
and differences on each
descriptor
• statistical tests, ANOVA
descriptor by descriptor at
5 % threshold
SUPPLE3
SUPPLE2
SPREADING1
PENETRATION1
400
350
WHITNESS1
300
SMOOTH3
WHITNESS2
250
200
150
SMOOTH2
WHTNESS3
100
50
0
STICKY3
SHINY2
Visual Aspect
STICKY2
SHINY3
GRIPPING3
Touch
GRIPPING2
OILY3
TRANSPARENCY2
TRANSPARENCY3
OILY2
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
STATISTICAL METHODES
¨ Statistical Mean Comparisons
¨ Principal Component Analysis on direct values or on differences
¨ Use-Preferences assessment (ranking)
¨ Preference Mapping
¨ Time intensity
¨ Textual Analysis
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
APPLICATIONS
Overall dermo-cosmetology can be set up on :
Skin care textured products for face and body
Hygiene
UV-screen care
Make-up foundation
Hair care
Men-shaving care
Topical drugs
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
HAIR CARE SENSORY LABORATORY
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Application
of a treating
lotion
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Application
POURING OUT
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Massage of scalp
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Cotation by trained hairdresser
WETNESS
OILYNESS
STICKYNESS
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Drying
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
SLIPPERY
ELECTRICITY
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
SUPPLENESS
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
SOFTNESS
HEAVYNESS
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
VOLUME
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Conclusions
Taking into account sensory dimension early in the cosmetic
development
¨ anticipate consumers’ desires in textures
A Development Methodology
helping to formulate more pleasant products, responding to
consumers comfort expectations,
increasing observance and thus more efficiency.
Nowadays, until 2001, these studies have been included in COLIPA
guidelines to prove efficiency of dermo-cosmetic products
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Thank you very much for your attention
[email protected]
E.S.N Madrid, 05/25/05, PIERRE FABRE RESEARCH INSTITUTE