Dossier Climbing in Loja (English)

LOJA (Granada)
LOJA (Granada)
CLIMBING IN LOJA
LOJA: City situated near the A-92 highway, offers a full variety of active tourism
activities.
ROUTES: Located in Sierra de Loja and in Monte Hacho.
QUALITY OF THE AREA: Among the best places to clima in Andalucía (this evaluation takes
into account different aspects Duch as the number of routes, bolting and the beauty of the
routes).
ROCK: Limestone.
BEST SEASON: Year round.
BOLTING: The majority of the anchors are good. M-10 bolts are abundant.
ORIENTATION OF THE CRAGS: South, west and north.
CLIMBING STYLES: Sustained or power-endurance climbing. Technical climbing due to
rock type, kinds of moves is predominate,… Short routes with powerful moves.
WHERE TO SLEEP: Great variety of accomodations, consult in the Tourist Office or in
www.lojaturismo.com.
LOJA (Granada)
LAS ZORRERAS
No cimbling in this area from
January 1 to June 30.
Decree 23/2012, of February
14, regulating the conservation and sustainable use of
wild flora and fauna and their
habitats (BOJA No. 60).
ZORRERAS ALTAS
1—Eléctrico Sector
- Best season: spring and summer.
- Distance to the vehicle: 5 minutes.
- One pitch routes.
- Sunny throughout most of the morning.
- Abundant vertical wall climbing.
- Average length of the routes: 12 metres.
Routes:
1. Kalambritos
2. Ángeles caídos
3. Noche profana
4. Cuarenta ladrones
5. Pepinos con leche
6. Rayos y centellas
7. Kostra nostra
6c+
7c
?
?
?
?
?
8.
9. La celliska
10.
11. Farándulas
12. Electroshock
13 Megapatinazos
?
?
?
7b
7c
7b
LOJA (Granada)
2—Quebrados Sector
3—El Cuenco Sector
- Best season: spring and autumn.
- Distance to the vehicle: 1 minute.
- One pitch routes.
- Sunny most of the day.
- Abundant 90º slabby climbing.
- Average length of the routes: 12 metres.
- Best season: spring and summer.
- Distance to the vehicle: 1 minute.
- One pitch routes.
- Sunny throughout most of the afternoon.
- Abundant 90º slabby climbing and the
vertical wall climbing.
- Average length of the routes: 12 metres.
Routes:
1. Cuatro y trescuartos
2. 1/6
3. 2/3 y un güisky
4. Contrahechos
Routes:
V+
6b
6c
6a
1. Profecía
2. Nostradamus
3. Anonimato
4. Goliat
5. Magia negra
6. Orbital
7. Sueños eróticos
8. Mesalina
9. Satanás
10. Kaopolicán
IV
IV
IV
IV
6b
6c
6c+
7c
?
7c+
LOJA (Granada)
4—Central Sector
- Best season: spring and autumn.
- Distance to the vehicle: 3 minutes.
- One pitch orutes.
- Sunny throughout most of the afternoon..
- Abundant vertical wall climbing.
- Average length of the routes: 18 metres.
- Some route names are labled.
Routes:
1. Caníbales a dieta
2. Arakatak
3. Números rojos
4. Esnifando roca
5. Un espiritu zoquete
6. Trepazarzas
7. Danza prima
8. Buraka
9. Cepillos free
10. Exculibertu
11. Bonguiboy
12. Hoito con el hito
13. Nirvana
14. Domino paria
15. Aprendíz de fakir
16. Albergue de los emplumados
17. Ukachaka
18. Pretensiones
19. Perros de presa
20. Sangre fría
7a+
?
7c
7b
6c
V+
6a+
6a+
6a+
V+
6c
6c
6b+
6c
6c+
7b+
7c
7b
8a
?
21. Yucatán
22. Los druidas
23. Hasta los güevos
24. Perchomanía
25.
26. Vicio de vacío
27. D’lulu
28. Patrañas
29. Sidroterapia
30. D’ayo
31. Penumbra
32. !Ven, devórame!
33. Mostacho blanco
34. Karkatrepos
35. Rosky
36. Sir Lancelot
37. Arcadia
38. D’Brokers
39. Sacrificio
40. Uno equipando,
muchos mirando
7b+
7b
7b+
7a+
?
6c+
6c
6a+
6b+
6b
7b
8a
7a
6a+
6b
6c+
6b
6b
7b
7a
LOJA (Granada)
ZORRERAS BAJAS
5—Colorín colorado Sector
6—Karadura Sector
- Best season: spring and summer.
- Distance to the vehicle 10 minutes.
- Sector or crag where you can clima when
it’s drizzling.
- One pitch routes.
- Sunny throughout most of the afternoon.
- Abundant vertical wall climbing and 90º
slabby climbing.
- Average length of the routes: 20 metres.
- Best season: spring and summer.
- Distance to the vehicle: 12 minutes.
- One pitch routes.
- Sunny throughout most of the afternoon.
- Abundant vertical wall climbing and steep
climbing.
- Average length of the routes: 24 metres.
Routes:
Routes:
1. Eguzkilore
2. Genio y figura
3. Teta capuchina
4. Deltoya
5. Musho
6. Colorín colorado
7. Idioma galveciano
8. La malicia del enano
9. Atila matutino
10. Zíngaros
11. Energía renovable
12. De sopetón
13. Tragos amargos
14. Tirar a matar
6c
6c+
8a
7b
7b+/7c
8a
7b+
7b
7b
7a
7c+
7b
?
?
1. Chut chut
2. La terrible
3. Avistamiento
4. Gorgojas
5. Karadura
6. Mortal up
7. Corazón amigo
6b
6b
6c
6c
7a
6c+
6c
LOJA (Granada)
7—Central or Asombrao Sector
- Best season: spring and summer.
- Distance to the vehicle: 14 minutes.
- Sector or crag where you can climb in
heavy rains.
- One pitch routes and severas pinches
routes.
- Some route names are labled.
- Sunny most of the day.
- Abundant vertical wall climbing and steep
climbing.
- Average rate length between 6 and 40 metres.
Routes:
1. Tapas
2. Se acabó Norma
3. San Miguel
4. Oficina punk
5. La cima del mundo
6. Desesperado
7. Osos CAN
8. Como gato panza arriba
9. Tararí que te vi
10. De espaldas al mundo
11. ¡AL abordaje!
12. A la deriva
13. ¡A la mierda!
14. El temazo
15.
16. La zorra y las chapas
17. Violación de monaguillos
18. Goco
19. El tratante
20. Conclave
21. Oye brother
22. La malafollá
23. Morituring
24. Murcianicos
25. Desvariante de Levante
7c
7c+
8a
7b+
8a+
8a+
7c+
7c
7c
7b+
7b
7b+ / 7c
7a
7c / 7c+
?
L1 7a+, L2 6a+,L3 7a+
7c+
L1 7c+,L2 ?,L3 ?
L1 V+, L2 8b, L3 ?
L1 V, L2 ?
L1 V+, L2 ?
8b
8b
8b
8c
26. La Sombra de Caín
27. De poder a poder
28. Voraz
29. Vibraciones positivas
30. El terror de los gérmenes
31. Cooperativa al zapo
32. Morada de vampiros
33. La rambla del mago
34. La pálida
35. Dos itanos
36. Hasta luego Luca
37. La perversa
38. Todo es mentira
39. El aliento del dragón
40. Vida indecente
41. Tela Marinera
42. Enrezabiá
43. Panceta
44. A sombrao
45. Piperra
46. Puta Navidad
47. Helao recalentao
48. Diagnóstico precoz
49. Polvoreda
8a+
8a+
8a
8a
8a
7b+
7a+
7b
8a+
7b+
L1 7b, L2 8a
8a
8a
7c+
7c+ / 8a
7c
7b+
7b
7b+
6c+
6c
6c+
7a
7a
LOJA (Granada)
8—Unzungu Sector
- Best season: spring, autumn and winter.
- Distance to the vehicle: 18 minutes.
- One pitch routes.
- Sunny mosr of the day.
- Abundant vertical wall climbing and
steep climbing.
- Average rate length between 9 and 25
metres.
Routes:
1. Unzungu
2. Cortes
3.
4.
5. Tauncro
6. La demonia
7. Kalahary
8. Aborigen
9. Sesamo
10. Voces discrepantes
11. Bicho de piedra
12. Gentuza
13. Estropicios
14. Locos de atar
15. Tremalleta
16. Dragones y mazmorras
17. Trogloditas sibaritas
8a
7b+
?
?
7b+
7a+
7c
7a+
?
7c / 7c+
7c
8a
7a+
6c
6b+
6b+
6c
9—Charco negro Sector
- Best season: spring, autumn and winter.
- Distance to the vehicle: 1 minute.
- One pitch routes.
- Sunny most of the day.
- Abundant vertical wall climbing.
- Average length of the routes: 18 metres.
Routes:
1. Fisura espantatrapo
2. Pata cabra
3. El rirri
4. Estírate gachón
5. Pito paco
6. Romualdo
7. Dios Eolo
8. La Chilinarina
9. Píllate maromo que está romo
7a+
6b+
6c+
6c+
6a+
7a
V+
6a+
6b
LOJA (Granada)
WALLS OF HACHO
EL HACHO
10—
10—Tajo de la Estación or Llorón Sector
- Best season: spring, autumn and winter.
- Distance to the vehicle: 5 minutes.
- Sector or crag where you can climb when it’s drizzling.
- One pitche routes.
- Some route names are labled.
- Sunny most of the day.
- Abundant vertical wall climbing and steep climbing.
- Average length of the routes: 20 metres.
37º 10’ 33.67”N
4º 09’ 05.00” W
X UTM: 397910
Y UTM: 4115139
HUSO 30
Vías
1. Mala reputación
2. Volando voy, volando vengo
3. Ponzoña
4. Los herejes
5. Vuelo feliz
6. Todas las brujerías
7. Maolicos
8. Tiempo perdido
9. Sueños rotos
10. Negocios sucios
11. La francesa
7b+
7a+
7c+
7c+
7b
6c+
6b+
6b+
8a
7c
8a+
12. Pesadillas en la roca
13. Pocas palabras
14. Círculo vicioso
15. Rienda suelta
16. La mitad de un sueño
17. Volaverun
18. Condición inhumana
19. Tierra soñá
20. Maldita mi suerte
21. De noche también se ve
7c
7c+
7n
7c
7c+/8a
8a
?
8a
7c+/8a
6a+
LOJA (Granada)
11—
11—Tajo del Diedro Sector and Placas del Búho
- Best season: spring, autumn and winter.
- Distance to the vehicle: 10 minutes.
- One pitch routes and several pinches routes.
- Some route names are labled.
Do not block the lane that leads to the
olive orchard. Walk through the olive
orchard respecting private property.
- Sunny most of the day.
- Abundant 90º slabby climbing and the
vertical wall climbing.
- Average route length between 8 and 50
metres.
37º 10’ 46.9476”N
4º 08’ 30.7386” W
X UTM: 398634
Y UTM: 4115486
HUSO 30
Routes:
1. PGS
2. Caña al Mono
3. Segundos Fuera
4. Maganta
5. Ábrete las piernas
6. Levanta el culo
7. Límpiate que tienes Magnesio
8. Caun ye caun
9. Taramica
10. Abracadabra
11. Erección Volcánica
12. Cuasimodo
13. Daye qye daye
6c
7a
7a
6b
V
6a+
IV
6b
6b
V+
6b
6a+
V
14. Maldita Penetración
15. Buhoneros
16. Coheme el Chumbo
17. El Diedro
18. Fantasías Animadas
19. Granujas
20. Tributo
21. ZZ Paff
22. Gorilón
23. La Puta Maya
24. Mascarada
25. Carnaval
(Bulders marked with red dots)
V
6b+/c
6b
L1 6a, L2 6a, L3 IV
L1 6b+, L2 6c
7a
6a
L1 6b+, L2 6b
L1 6a+, L2 7b
6b+
6b
6a+
LOJA (Granada)
37º 10’ 59.4879”N
4º 07’ 45.142” W
12—
12—Peñón de las Cinco Sector
X UTM: 399763
Y UTM: 4115859
HUSO 30
West face
- Best season: spring, autumn and winter.
- Distance to the vehicle: 10 minutes.
- One pitch routes.
- Sunny throughout most of the afternoon.
- Abundant vertical wall climbing.
- Average length of the routes: 23 metres.
When you get to the parking lot, the track
goes hidden through the pine wood. You
must find your way around to get to the antenna.
Look for the cairns. Don’t take paths with no
cairns.
Routes:
1. Akinden
2. Na de ná
3. Extravío mental
V
7a+
6c
South face
- Sunny most of the day.
Routes:
1. Ozú
2. Talismán
3. Función clorofílica
4. Tequila
6a+
6b+
6b+
6b
LOJA (Granada)
East face
- Sunny most of the day.
Routes:
1. La ocasión la pintan calva
2. Aguarrás
3. Escorpión rojo
4. Achilipún
5. Territorio Inca
6. Too… perra
7. Cavernícola
8. Menudo percal
9. Toi que me voy
10. Solicitud de ascenso
11. Pobre de mí
12. Laja canina
13. Pedigrí
6c
V
6b
6c
7b
7a+
6a
6c+
7b+
7b+
6c+
7a+
7c