"Winterizing Winterizing your Garden" your Garden"

No. 6, Vol. 2013
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/clatsop/gardening SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2013
Inside This Issue
A Walk in the Garden with
CCMGA President ....................... 2
CCMGA Vice Pres Report, Logo
Ideas, Diggin’ the Dirt ................. 3
Bring-a-Friend Event ................... 4
Current Events ............................ 5
Plant Clinic/Info Line Schedules .. 6
Pet Friendly Garden, New North
Coast Food Guide, Got Tons of
Tomatoes? .................................. 7
Food Preservation Hotline, Shred
Autumn Leaves ........................... 8
Renovate Your Lawn After
Summer Dormancy ..................... 9
Mulch is Key to No Till Garden . 10
Hebes Provide Fall & Winter
Color ......................................... 11
September Garden Hints .......... 12
October Garden Hints ............... 13
You are Invited .......................... 14
http://extension.oregonstate.
edu/clatsop/gardening
Deadline for the November
issue is October 21.
Send articles to
[email protected]
"Winterizing
your Garden"
& Plant Sale
Sat., Sept 21, 2013 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM
Demo Garden at the Fairgrounds
This is a free event & open to the public for education in
preparing the garden for winter. (We don’t even really want
to think about that rain!). There will be a plant sale,
(DONATIONS Happily Accepted ☺ - either the morning of the event, or
before to Nancy Leonard, [email protected] or Joanie
Chapel, [email protected]).
We will have Teresa Retzlaff as a speaker, and we will provide
demonstrations on garden tool care, dividing plants, soil pH
testing clinic, and of course, answer garden questions. In
case of rain, it will be held indoors at the Fairgrounds main
bldg.
Master Gardeners: If you are interested in volunteering for this event,
contact Nancy Leonard ([email protected]) or Joanie
Chapel ([email protected]).
Oregon State University Extension Service offers educational programs, activities, and materials without discrimination based on age, color, disability, gender identity or
expression, marital status, national origin, race, religion, sex, sexual orientation, or veteran’s status. Oregon State University Extension Service is an Equal Opportunity
Employer. This publication will be made available in accessible formats upon request. Please call (503) 325-8573 for information.
OSU Extension programs will provide reasonable accommodation to persons with physical or mental disabilities. Contact the Clatsop County Extension Office at 503-3258573 to request reasonable accommodation.
A WALK IN THE GARDEN
By Ed Steck, President
Clatsop County Master
Gardener Association
Come with me once more;
take my hand for a walk in our garden. Bees are
hummin’, birds are singing. They beckon. They invite.
Do they miss us? It would be nice to think this is true.
Now, where is that bench? Oh yes, there it is. There is a
familiar sweet ambience we can enjoy together. Isn’t
that part of why we nurture our garden. If not it’s like
living near the beach and never enjoying the sun setting
there.
As we rest I am reminded of the peaceful feeling of
driving through the countryside en route to Courdelain
and the Mini College held there at the OSU campus.
Many years had elapsed since I last spent time on a
campus sifting amongst other students. Arriving there I
discovered that we were being housed in a student
dormitory amidst international students. I was more
poignantly reminded of this sitting in the cafeteria alone
at my table adjacent to young men eating their dinner
with chop sticks.
The classes were packed with the expected advanced
information which I hoped for and expected. I was not
disappointed. Being reminded that when I thinned my
apples earlier in the year they could not all be
considered ‘babies’ that at least 70% must be rejected
to lay upon the ground and remain in what seemed
somewhat like a waste yet sacrificed in order to yield
those large beautiful apples which we all desire, it had
to be. Six inches distance between each apple we were
instructed. Several of the women fidgeted in their seats
with frowns upon their brow. It didn’t work for them it
was clear. Recently in the produce section of a local
market I observed what was termed ‘baby grannys’.
Hmmm I thought marketing an apple someone
neglected to thin. They ripened at about 1 ¾” in
circumference.
Instructors, it would seem were carefully chosen. They
delivered, with the precision of a brain surgeon. They
knew not only what we wanted, but, also what we
really needed. Mentioning total value of the experience,
would have to included exchanges experienced with
other members of our chapter attending and especially
a dialogue with counterparts from other chapters.
Comparing notes and ideas was an extremely satisfying
experience.
Considering the experience a thought came to mind as I
reflected upon our own wonderful classes being taught
to new students. Among them are those who never
experience a visit to our own Demonstration Garden.
They sign up for the classroom instruction departing
upon conclusion of the final class feeling well fed
without extending themselves for learning which may
round out their total experience. But, as Emerson once
said “To harvest a field of Pumpkin yet eat no pie”. So
much to learn, yet to confine one’s learning to a class
room is to leave off the end of the story.
Would it be suitable to have one of the classes actually
taught in our garden – amongst the living vibrant plants
where real instruction may take place? Perhaps a
thought worthy of consideration.
As we walk through our garden today we may look
about us seeing the beauty of that which we have
helped create. Take a deep breath and know that you
have also created peace and serenity that can rarely be
found elsewhere in the world today. Relax and enjoy it,
for it is priceless.
As it was well expressed by a lyricist:
In the cottage there is joy, when there’s love at home
hate and envy ne’er annoy, when there’s love at home
Roses bloom beneath our feet, all the earth’s a garden
sweet
Making life a bliss complete, when there’s love at home.
May your garden bloom pure and sweet and offer you a
life with bliss complete.
Ed Steck President CCMGA
Save the Date: Mini-College
2014 will be July 12 and July 13
2
A Note from Your CCMGA Vice President
Logo Ideas
By Bob Caswell, Vice President, Clatsop Co. Master
Gardener Association
The Marketing Committee is seeking logo ideas from
the membership. We would like to develop a logo
specific to Clatsop County Master Gardener association
that reflects not only our county, but also our
organization, its mission and its membership. If you
have artistic talent and would like to submit a logo idea,
please contact Stacey Hall at (503) 458-5229 or by email
at [email protected]. Submission deadline is
September 30, 2013.
My favorite time of the year at the coast is September
and October. These months could even be the best of
summer after being bored with cloudy, drizzle, cloudy,
cool, cloudy, colder, cloudy… But I can’t complain after
a record crop of marionberries and currents and now
my 14” fortex beans are generating a record harvest. I
love the lull before the storm. Puttering around the
garden is so rewarding. Big beautiful trumpet flowers,
great year for hydrangeas, and fuchsias.
I loved Mini-College at Oregon State University in
Corvallis. I can say that because I went there in 1956
and still love every bit of it. It was good to see Ed,
Stacey, and Linda. Next year we will repeat in mid July.
It is great getting the latest scoop from our educators
and 6 Pursuit of Excellence County Presentations.
September 19 – 4 pm, mark your calendars and bring a
friend to our 6 project stations and show off the Clatsop
County Master Gardener program. Bring your favorite
snack to share. Best of All, Phil Allen will be making a
mushroom presentation and you just might get a
sample to snack on. This is the time of year when the
better local restaurants are trying to lure the
connoisseurs of these tasty treats. Nancy and Phil are
just the best when it comes to a good presentation.
These are the results of foraging secrets. Come check it
out.
October 17 – 11-1:30, CCMGA, Brown Bag Lunch, Clean
the 4-H Clubhouse, plus TBA.
Harvest your crops – cut your flowers
– share with your neighbor – have
more fun!
Submission Guidelines
• One (1) submission per member
• Logo should be “graphically clean” (will be clean
and clear when printed and/or
shrunken/enlarged)
• Logo submission should be no larger 8½X11
September
3 Joanie Chapel and Nancy Lenard – winterizing the garden
24 Monica Aursland – growing orchids
October
1 Carol Carver and George Esum – farming on Puget Island
29 Linda Brim – tips from the master gardener
November
5 Diane and Rob Stockhouse – garden planning for next
year
Topics subject to change
Tuesdays at 9:30 a.m. on KMUN
91.9 FM
Contact Ann if you are interested in being a guest or
have program ideas (503) 791-4611, or email at
[email protected]
3
Clatsop County Master Gardener Assoc.
Bring-a-Friend Meeting &
Appetizer/Dessert Potluck
Thur., September 19
4:00 PM
Clatsop Co. Fairgrounds 4-H Club House
& Demo Garden
Come learn what the Master Gardener Program
is all about then enjoy speaker, Phil Allen talk
about foraging for, storing, and preparing local
“Mushrooms” at 5:30 PM in the Demo Garden.
Bring your own lawn chair.
Questions: Contact the OSU Extension Office at (503) 325-8573
Oregon State University Extension Service offers educational programs, activities, and materials -- without regard to race, color, religion, sex, sexual
orientation, national origin, age, marital status, disability, or disabled veteran or Vietnam-era veteran status – as required by Title VI of the Civil
Rights Act of 1964, Title IX of the Education Amendments of 1972, and Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act of 1973. Oregon State University
Extension Service is an Equal Opportunity Employer.
OSU Extension programs will provide reasonable accommodation to persons with physical or mental disabilities. Contact the Clatsop County
Extension Office at 503-325-8573 to request reasonable accommodation.
4
Demo Garden
Workday
Every Wednesday
5:30 PM – 7:30 PM
Clatsop County
Fairgrounds
Contact:
Walt John
(503) 325-7429
Marlene House
(503) 325-4423
2013 CCMGA
Officers
Current Events
September
12
CCMGA Board Meeting, 2 – 4 PM, OSU Seafood Lab Conf. Room
19
Bring-a-Friend Appetizer/Dessert Potluck & Member Meeting,
4 PM. Presentation at 5:30 PM on “Mushrooms” with speaker, Phil
Allen, Fairgrounds. See flyer on Page 4 for more info
21
Winterizing Your Garden & Plant Sale, 10 AM – 2 PM. Clatsop Co.
Fairgrounds Demo Garden. See front page for additional info.
October
10
CCMGA Board Meeting, 2-4 PM, OSU Seafood Lab Conf. Room
17*
CCMGA General Membership Meeting & Mini College Reports,
11 AM, 4-H Club House
*After the October Meeting we will be cleaning the 4-H Club House.
17
MG Brown Bag Meeting, Speaker TBA, topic “Garden Lighting and
Accessories”, 12 Noon
November
CCMGA Board Meeting, 2-4 PM, OSU Seafood Lab Conference Room
14
21
President
Ed Steck
MG Class of 2013 Graduation & Recertification Program,
CMH Columbia Center, Coho Room (next to the OSU Extension Office
Building), time TBA
Vice President
Bob Caswell
December
12
CCMGA Board Meeting, 2-4 PM, OSU Seafood La b Conf. Room
Secretary
Darlene Houser
14
CCMGA Holiday Potluck & Social, at the home of Ed Steck. More info to
follow
Treasurer
Pam Holen
Historian
Sheila Beveridge
State Rep
Linda Holmes
Alt. State Rep.
Walt John
October Brown Bag Meeting
October 17
12 Noon
Topic: Garden Lighting &
Accessories
4-H Club House
Save the date
Mini College 2014
July 12-13
Past President
Debbie Haugsten
Visit us on Facebook at:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Clatsop-County-MasterGardeners-Association/515484448507781?ref=hl
5
Extension Office Info Line thru October 9
Mondays 10 AM - 1 PM & Wednesdays 12 Noon - 3 PM
Have a plant or bug problem? Give the Master Gardeners a call (503) 325-8573 or email [email protected]
Date
Time
Veteran Master Gardener
Trainee
Astoria Sunday Market
Sundays 10 AM – 3 PM
Have gardening questions? Be sure to stop by the OSU Master Gardener booth at
Astoria Sunday Market, continues through Oct. 9
Hello, Master Gardener Trainees and Veterans,
Thank you to all who have signed up for the 2013 Astoria Sunday Market season. We're in the last third of the season
at the Market, so please check your schedules and let me know if you have any conflicts. Please give enough notice
if you have to cancel so there's time to get a substitute. There are only a couple of spots open, but If you still need
hours, please let me know when you are available and I'll work out a spot for you.
There are still several weeks where we need a volunteer to bring the gear to the market. If you can help with this it
would be greatly appreciated.
Contact Chris Bennett [email protected]. or call 503-325-8282. (if Dave answers, make him write it down!!)
Thanks so much for your help! Chris
Sept 1
Sept 8
Sept 15
Sept 22
Sept 29
Claudia Justice, Shirley Croddy, Nancy Bosse, John Huelman, Nancy brings booth gear
Cheryl Capellen, Linda Holmes, Susan Widawski, NEED 1+ _____________brings booth gear?
Joanie Chapel, Nancy Leonard, Will Harper, Eileen Cheuvront _____________brings booth gear?
Trudy Enke, Chuck Meyer, Barb Hassan, Jane Donnelly, Chuck brings booth gear
Stacey Hall, Nancy Bosse, Shad Balzano, Ann Goldeen, + ___________brings booth gear?
October 6 Cheryl Capellen, Darlene Houser, Debbie Haugsten, NEED 1 Debbie/Darlene bring gear
October 13 Trudy Enke, Karen Reintzell, Nancy Bosse, NEED 1 + ___________brings gear?
River People Farmers Market
Every Thursday from 3 PM – 6 PM
At the corner of 13th & Duane Streets in Astoria
Through October 14
Come shop the Market every Thursday through Oct. 14. River People Farmers Market also offers Master
Gardener Plant Clinics once a month on the following Thursdays:
Sept 12
w/ Master Gardeners Stacey Hall, Trudy Enke, John & Marion Sefren
Oct 3
w/ Master Gardeners Susan Widawski, Nancy Leonard, David Mathre
Questions: Contact Jennifer Rasmussen at [email protected]
www.riverpeoplemarket.org
6
Pet Friendly Garden
The Clatsop County Master Gardener’s Association
volunteers finished phase two of the “Pet Friendly
Garden” at the Clatsop County Animal Shelter. The
garden highlights non-toxic shrubs, perennials, and
annual flowers you can plant in your garden so family
cats and dogs can be safe while enjoying outdoor
garden spaces.
Cody Carpenter (owner of
Timberland Lawn Care &
Home Maintenance) and
his employee Will Harper
are OSU Extension Master
Gardener trainees and
volunteered not only their
time, but their equipment,
supplies, and landscape
creativity. Roberta
Muehlberg and Debbie
Haugsten spent the
Saturday digging out plants
and assisting Cody and Will with leveling the areas,
placing landscaping fabric, and topping with gravel.
If you are driving out to the shelter to choose a forever
furry friend or just want to get ideas for your garden,
stop by and see the garden. Tim Robertson, a trainee
from The Dallas has been watering, deadheading, and
weeding the past few months. There is a garden map
installed in a beautifully designed metal display stand
(made by Dale Johnson, hubby to our OSU Master
Gardener Board Treasurer) and brochures on non-toxic
plants are available in the office.
I am looking for a new
project manager for 2014.
It takes a few hours a week
and the staff, visitors, and
CCMGA truly appreciate
keeping this project
available to the
community. Contact
Pamela Holen at
[email protected] or
503-325-1250 if you are interested.
Check out the new North Coast Food Guide
Available at the Extension
Office and at the River
People Farmers Market.
Your guide to finding local
food producers, farmers
markets and other food
sources.
Got tons of tomatoes? Try drying them.
Try drying extra tomatoes to liven up pizza, pasta sauce and
creamy dips. (Photo by Lynn Ketchum)
Are you wondering what to
do with all those tomatoes
in your garden? Well, after
you've eaten enough BLTs
to force you to loosen your
BELTs a notch, how about
drying them?
Nellie Oehler, a food
educator with the Oregon
State University Extension Service, offers the following
recommendations:
Select ripe tomatoes of good color. Meaty "plum"
varieties such as Roma, Oroma or Saucy work the best.
If you want to remove the skins, dip them in boiling
water for 30 seconds. Then immerse them immediately
in cold water.
Cut the tomatoes into slices that are one-quarter inch
to one-third inch wide. To prevent them from darkening
or turning black, steam or blanch them or put them in a
microwave oven until the slices are heated throughout,
but not cooked.
-continued7
Got tons of tomatoes? continued
Place the slices on food dehydrator trays. If you want to
season them, sprinkle them with herbs and garlic
powder.
Dry the slices until they're leathery and crisp (135
degrees is recommended). It will take about eight to 10
hours depending on the thickness. Store them in a cool,
dry, dark place in plastic or glass containers.
When you want to use the dried tomatoes, soak them in
hot water until softened. Try them on pizza and in pasta
sauce and creamy dips.
Once you've mastered the basics of drying tomatoes,
how about taking it a step farther and putting them in
oil? The tomatoes as well as the flavored oil can be used
on pizza and in pasta salads, appetizers, Italian dishes,
vinaigrette dressing, marinade sauce and dips for crusty
French bread.
Oehler explains how to do it: First dip the dried
tomatoes in bottled lemon or lime juice to soften them.
Then place them in your favorite oil. Dried tomatoes
can be packed safely in oil and stored at room
temperature, as long as you don't add fresh or dried
herbs or vegetables. They can introduce potentially
harmful bacteria that can cause food poisoning.
If you are making seasoned tomatoes in oil, they can be
stored for only four days in the refrigerator. They can,
however, be frozen for long-term storage.
More information on drying fruits and vegetables can
be found in the OSU Extension Service's online catalog,
at http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog, then
search for publication PNW 397, Drying Fruits &
Vegetables. For information on putting herbs and
vegetables in oil, including tomatoes, visit Family and
Community Health's Food Preservation page at
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/fch/foodpreservation.
And remember, you can get answers to your food
preserving questions by calling the OSU Extension
Service's food safety and preservation hotline through
Oct. 11 at 1-800-354-7319. It's open Monday through
Friday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., except closed on
Wednesdays.
Author: Tiffany Woods, Source: Nellie Oehler
Shred autumn leaves for compost piles and garden
beds
An easy way to shred leaves is to run
over them with a mulching lawn
mower with a collecting bag. (Photo
from iStockphoto.com)
Leaves, leaves everywhere and what
can you do with them all? Most
make a great addition to the
compost pile because they are
nitrogen-poor but rich in minerals.
But other leaves, including oak,
walnut and laurel, are especially slow
to break down.
A warning: Oak and walnut leaves
contain materials that affect the growth of several other
plants. Use these leaves as mulches or add small amounts
to the compost pile over the winter.
The solution to too many leaves is fairly simple. Fallen
leaves will break down much more quickly if you chop
them into tinier pieces, said Ross Penhallegon,
horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension
Service.
-continued-
8
Shred autumn leaves for compost, continued
An easy way to shred leaves into smaller pieces, even if
you don’t have a chipper-shredder, is to run over them
with a mulching lawn mower with a collecting bag. Or
shred them with the mower and rake them.
If you have huge trees and a lot of leaves, store shredded
leaves in garbage bags or cans. Shredded leaves have
many uses in the yard and garden.
"Layer shredded leaves into your compost pile to add air
and a carbon source to the pile. This is especially handy in
the winter, as compost tends to get matted down and
suffers from a shortage of bulk brown materials,"
Penhallegon said.
Place shredded leaves in the flowerbeds as mulch. They
are a great source of organic matter for the soil and helps
protect flower bulbs and perennials from hard winter
freezes.
Don’t wait too long. It's easier to rake, shred or grind dry
leaves than sodden matted ones.
Be sure to cover the compost pile to keep it from
becoming too soggy.
Author: Judy Scott, Source: Ross Penhallegon
Renovate your lawn after summer dormancy
OSU Extension Turf Grass Specialist Rob Golembiewski
offers advice about fall
lawn renovation. (Photo by
Lynn Ketchum.)
Fall is a good time to
renovate your lawn,
especially if you conserved
water over the summer.
That toasty carpet in your front yard will come back to
life with cooler temperatures and the first autumn rains,
according to Robert Golembiewski, Oregon State
University Extension turf grass specialist. As turf comes
out of dormancy, you can see which areas need to be
renovated.
Golembiewski has advice to help homeowners treat
their drought-stressed lawns.
Fertilize the lawn with the onset of the rainy season to
maximize re-growth of dormant turf, he suggests, and
then reseed where turf needs a boost. Water-soluble
fertilizers (those containing ammonium sulfate or urea)
are a source of rapidly available nitrogen and result in a
quick green-up of the turf. As a general rule, apply one
to one-and-a-half pounds of nitrogen per 1,000-square
feet of lawn to encourage regrowth of weak or thin turf.
Selecting a grass seed mix for reseeding is a personal
choice based on how the lawn area will be used,
drought resistance and other considerations. In western
Oregon, perennial ryegrass is a common choice because
it is quick to establish and has better than average
drought tolerance.
"Avoid seed mixes that include annual ryegrass,"
Golembiewski said. "Annual ryegrass grows vigorously
through winter, but doesn't blend well with other
grasses, and dies out in mid summer. In essence you get
nothing but extra work and an ugly lawn for your
trouble."
Watering the reseeded areas is essential to good
establishment. If fall weather turns warm and dry, you
may need to water a few times a day to keep grass
seeds moist. After the green shoots are visible you
should be able to cut your watering in half, and by two
weeks you should water only every three to five days if
needed.
Mowing is an important step in the process, even in the
fall. Mowing stimulates the turf to begin filling in. An
occasional mowing during winter might be necessary to
keep the turf healthy, dense, and vigorous.
Dethatching may be necessary, but is best done in the
spring when the turf begins vigorous growth. Turf can
be dethatched in the fall, but is more susceptible to
weedy invasion of annual bluegrass and other
undesirable invading grasses and winter germinating
weeds.
"The typical home lawn in western Oregon is an
evolving ecosystem that gets more complex each year,"
Golembiewski said. "At first, it consists of one or two
species of grass found in a typical seed mix. Over time,
it evolves to three or four species that were not part of
the original seed mix but are well adapted to the
environment. We call this mix of species a 'climax'
lawn."
-continued-
9
Renovate your lawn after summer dormancy, cont.
The conversion to a climax lawn is a natural process.
The end result is a lawn adapted to your growing
environment, according to Golembiewski. It may need
less fertilizer and should be mowed shorter than
commonly planted turf grasses.
All lawns, either newly planted or renovated, need care
year-round, and the OSU Extension Service has an
online guide to help homeowners with year-round lawn
care: "Maintaining a Healthy Lawn in Western Oregon,"
EC 1521.
Author: Judy Scott, Source, Rob Golembiewski
Mulch is a key to no-till gardens
Leaves make excellent
mulch for no-till
gardens, as shown in
this enclosed garden
bed of bok choy.
(Photo by EESC.)
Now is the time to plan your no-till garden for next year.
"The crux of no-till gardening is to pile on enough mulch
so that weeds don't germinate and grow up through it,"
said Barb Fick, a horticulturist with the Oregon State
University Extension Service, who has kept her large
vegetable garden viable with the no-dig method for
years.
To establish a new no-till garden in the fall or winter
find a sunny spot and outline where the new beds will
be. Use a garden hose or rope if the borders are curved.
Because you won't be tilling, you won't need to confine
your garden design to straight lines.
Be sure to lay out the vegetable beds so that you can
easily reach any part of the bed from a path while
kneeling. It's important not to step into the bed and
compact the soil. If you put your new no-till garden into
an existing lawn and want the paths to remain as grass,
don't forget to make them wide enough for your
mower.
"Whatever you use, don't skimp on mulch," she said. "A
heavy layer not only keeps weeds from growing, it also
keeps the underlying soil moist, greatly reducing the
amount of watering you need in the summer."
If you use leaves, grass clippings or straw, you might
need as much as eight to 10 inches of them, Fick said. If
you use cardboard or newspaper as mulch, you'll need
less of it, she said. You'll want to add a couple of inches
of organic matter over it though.
Over time, the mulch layers you keep adding will help
loosen up the clay soil. The soil formed by the addition
of so much organic matter will likely be loose, full of
earthworms and teeming with healthy microbes that
make nutrients available to your plants.
When you're ready to plant in the spring, push aside the
mulch layer where you want to put your seeds or
transplants. For the first year or so, you may need to dig
out old roots and add topsoil or compost in the hole
where you want to plant. An advantage to no-till is that
you turn over a small amount of soil only where you'll
plant seeds or starts. This keeps old weed seeds down
in the soil, making it harder for them to germinate.
If you're growing large transplants like melons,
tomatoes, eggplants and peppers, in the spring you can
lay down heavy black or red plastic to warm up the soil
faster, conserve moisture and reduce weeds. One
caution though: depending on its weight, plastic
sheeting eventually breaks up into tiny pieces as it
deteriorates from exposure to the sun. Soaker hoses or
drip irrigation – the best ways to water a no-till garden –
should be placed under the plastic.
As your crops come to an end, incorporate the dead
vegetation into the mulch.
"Adding organic matter or mulch is the best way to
insure a healthy garden," Fick said. "If the prospect of a
vegetable garden blanketed under huge mounds of
organic matter or mulch doesn't fit your vision of a
perfectly tended garden, remember that when soils
bake in the sun, weeds grow and plants become
dehydrated and die."
Author: Tiffany Woods, Source: Barb Fick
After that, start heaping on the mulch. Fick prefers to
pile on aged mint straw in the fall.
10
Hebes provide fall and winter color
If you like to prolong
color in your
landscapes through
the summer and into
the fall, consider
planting evergreen
shrubs called Hebes
(pronounced HEEbees) for vivid color
in both flowers and foliage during summer and fall.
"Most Hebes flower in the summer, but others bloom in
late fall. Some have colorful foliage that lasts through
autumn," said Neil Bell, consumer horticulturalist with
the Oregon State University Extension Service. "They
provide an interesting change from the usual asters and
maples we customarily rely on for autumn interest."
Native to New Zealand, Hebes have hundreds of
varieties, but only a few are familiar to American
gardeners. "The plants may have acquired a reputation
for lack of hardiness because some of the most popular
cultivars introduced here are not hardy in very cold
winters," Bell said. "However, most Hebes do well in the
Pacific Northwest."
Large-leaved Hebes can be injured by temperatures
below 25 degrees Farenheit and are less hardy than
those with small leaves. Rather than avoid buying largeleaved shrubs, consider putting them in a sheltered
spot.
For showy purple flowers in the fall, Bell suggests
cultivars 'Amy' and 'Alicia Amherst.' 'Purple Picture'
blooms in June but flowers profusely again in October
and November. 'Mohawk' blooms profusely into
November.
Several small-leaved Hebe cultivars that are hardy west
of the Cascades have beautiful and unusual foliage.
Some are commonly sold in the Pacific Northwest.
'Quicksilver,' as the name suggests, has small silvery
leaves. 'Boughton Dome' has grayish foliage. 'James
Stirling' has ochre leaves and resembles a small conifer.
Another unusual characteristic of some Hebes is a
noticeable change in foliage color from summer to
winter. Some cultivars take on a purplish or reddish cast
during winter. Perhaps the best known is 'Caledonia,'
which turns purple. 'Sapphire' has shoots that turn
bright red at the tips in the winter.
Several of the variegated cultivars are beautiful and
unusual, but are large-leaved and require a protected
spot if you want them to survive the winter. They
include 'Silver Queen' (also called Franciscana
Variegata’), 'Tricolor’ and 'Andersonii Variegata.'
In addition to a protected location, Hebes need at least
partial sun, well-drained soil and water during the
summer months. Most do well without much pruning,
and annual moderate pruning after they bloom works
well.
The OSU Department of Horticulture's website, called
"Landscape Plants – Identification and Information," has
photos and other information about several kinds of
Hebes that grow on the OSU campus in Corvallis. Go to:
http://oregonstate.edu/dept/ldplants/
Results of an OSU landscape evaluation of Hebes is
online at:
http://hort.oregonstate.edu/eco_land/turf_manageme
nt/northwest_plant_evaluations/hebe
Author: Judy Scott, Source: Neil Bell
Some red-flowering Hebes provide color through
November and even through December in a mild year.
Bell suggests 'Hobby' or 'Simon Delaux.' 'Bowles' Hybrid'
produces lavender flowers in summer, but will bloom
again in the fall, even into January.
"Except for 'Bowles' Hybrid,' which is hardier, all these
hybrids are susceptible to cold," Bell said. Plant them
against a sheltered wall or tucked between other
shrubs. Be prepared to give them a little extra cover if
the temperature threatens to drop suddenly."
11
SEPTEMBER 2013
Garden hints from your OSU Extension Agent
Oregon State University Extension Service encourages sustainable
gardening practices. Preventative pest management is emphasized over
reactive pest control. Identify and monitor problems before acting, and
opt for the least toxic approach that will remedy the problem.
First consider cultural, and then physical controls. The conservation of
biological control agents (predators, parasitoids) should be favored over
the purchase and release of biological controls. Use chemical controls
only when necessary, only after identifying a pest problem, and only
after thoroughly reading the pesticide label. Least-toxic choices include
insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and
synthetic pesticides — when used judiciously.
Recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all
areas of Oregon. For more info, contact your local Extension office at:
extension.oregonstate.edu/find-us).
Trade-name products and services are mentioned as illustrations only.
This does not mean the Oregon State University Extension Service
endorses these products and services or intends to discriminate against
products and services not mentioned.
Maintenance and Clean Up
• Recycle disease-free plant material and kitchen
vegetable and fruit scraps into compost. Don’t compost
diseased plants unless you are using the “hot compost”
method (120° to 150°F).
• Harvest winter squash when the “ground spot” changes
from white to a cream or gold color.
• Pick and store winter squash; mulch carrot, parsnip, and
beets for winter harvesting.
• Protect tomatoes and/or pick green tomatoes and ripen
indoors if frost threatens.
• Reduce water on trees, shrubs, and vines east of
Cascades to harden them off for winter.
• Stake tall flowers to keep them from blowing over in fall
winds.
• Dig, clean, and store tuberous begonias if frost
threatens.
• Harvest potatoes when the tops die down. Store them in
a dark location.
• Optimal time for establishing a new lawn is August
through Mid-September.
• Aerate lawns.
• (Early-September): Apply 1 lb. nitrogen per 1,000 sq.ft.
to lawns. Reduce risks of run-off into local waterways by
not fertilizing just prior to rain, and not over-irrigating so
that water runs off of lawn and onto sidewalk or street.
• Divide peonies and iris.
• Plant or transplant woody ornamentals and mature
herbaceous perennials. Fall planting of trees, shrubs and
perennials can encourage healthy root growth over the
winter.
• Plant daffodils, tulips, and crocus for spring bloom. Work
calcium and phosphorus into the soil below the bulbs at
planting time. Remember when purchasing bulbs, the size
of the bulb is directly correlated to the size of the flower
yet to come in
spring.
• Western Oregon: Plant winter cover of annual rye or
winter peas in vegetable garden.
Pest Monitoring and Management
• Continue monitoring late-season soft fruits and berries
for Spotted Wing Drosophila (SWD). If SWD are present,
use an integrated and least toxic approach to manage the
pests. To learn how to monitor for SWD flies and larval
infestations in fruit, visit
http://swd.hort.oregonstate.edu/gardeners.
• Apply parasitic nematodes to moist soil beneath
rhododendrons and azaleas that show root weevil damage
(notched leaves).
• Control slugs as necessary. Least toxic management
options for slugs include barriers and traps. Baits are also
available for slug control; iron phosphate baits are safe to
use around pets. Read and follow all label directions prior
to using baits, or any other chemical control.
• Monitor trailing berries for leaf and cane spot. Treat if
necessary.
• As necessary, apply copper spray for peach and cherry
trees.
• Spray for juniper twig blight, as necessary, after pruning
away dead and infected twigs.
• Coastal and western valleys: Spray susceptible varieties
of potatoes and tomatoes for early and late blight.
Houseplants and Indoor Gardening
• Clean houseplants, check for insects, and repot and
fertilize if necessary; then bring them indoors.
Planting/Propagation
12
OCTOBER 2013
Garden hints from your OSU Extension Agent
Oregon State University Extension Service encourages sustainable
gardening practices. Preventative pest management is emphasized over
reactive pest control. Identify and monitor problems before acting, and
opt for the least toxic approach that will remedy the problem.
First consider cultural, and then physical controls. The conservation of
biological control agents (predators, parasitoids) should be favored over
the purchase and release of biological controls. Use chemical controls
only when necessary, only after identifying a pest problem, and only
after thoroughly reading the pesticide label. Least-toxic choices include
insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and
synthetic pesticides — when used judiciously.
Recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all
areas of Oregon. For more info, contact your local Extension office at:
extension.oregonstate.edu/find-us).
Trade-name products and services are mentioned as illustrations only.
This does not mean the Oregon State University Extension Service
endorses these products and services or intends to discriminate against
products and services not mentioned.
Planning
• If needed, improve soil drainage needs of lawns before rain
begins.
• Register to become an OSU Master Gardener volunteer
with your local Extension office. For more information, check:
extension.oregonstate.edu/mg/
Maintenance and Clean Up
• Drain or blow out your irrigation system, insulate valve
mechanisms, in preparation of winter.
• Recycle disease-free plant material and kitchen vegetable
and fruit scraps into compost. Don’t compost diseased plants
unless you are using the “hot compost” method (120° to
150°F).
• Use newspaper or cardboard covered by mulch to
discourage winter and spring annual weeds or remove a lawn
area for conversion to garden beds. For conversion, work in
the paper and mulch as organic matter once the lawn grass
has died.
• Clean and paint greenhouses and cold frames for plant
storage and winter growth.
• Harvest sunflower heads; use seed for birdseed or roast for
personal use.
• Dig and store potatoes; keep in darkness, moderate
humidity, temperature about 40°F. Discard unused potatoes
if they sprout. Don’t use as seed potatoes for next year.
• Harvest and immediately dry filberts and walnuts; dry at
95° to 100°F.
• Ripen green tomatoes indoors. Check often and discard
rotting fruit.
• Harvest and store apples; keep at about 40°F, moderate
humidity.
• Place mulch over roots of roses, azaleas, rhododendrons
and berries for winter protection.
• Trim or stake bushy herbaceous perennials to prevent wind
damage.
• To suppress future pest problems, clean up annual flower
beds by removing diseased plant materials, overwintering
areas for insect pests; mulch with manure or garden compost
to feed the soil and suppress weeds.
• Cover asparagus and rhubarb beds with a mulch of manure
or compost.
• Clean, sharpen and oil tools and equipment before storing
for winter.
• Store garden supplies and fertilizers in a safe, dry place out
of reach of children.
• Prune out dead fruiting canes in raspberries.
• Western Oregon: Harvest squash and pumpkins; keep in dry
area at 55° to 60°F.
• Western Oregon: If necessary (as indicated by soil test
results) and if weather permits, spade organic material and
lime into garden soil.
Planting/Propagation
• Dig & divide rhubarb. (Should be done about every 4 yrs.)
• Plant garlic for harvesting next summer.
• Propagate chrysanthemums, fuchsias, geraniums by stem
cuttings.
• Save seeds from the vegetable and flower garden. Dry,
date, label, and store in a cool and dry location.
• Plant ground covers and shrubs.
• Dig and store geraniums, tuberous begonias, dahlias,
gladiolas.
• Pot and store tulips and daffodils to force into early bloom,
indoors, in December and January.
Pest Monitoring and Management
• Monitor landscape plants for problems. Don’t treat unless a
problem is identified.
• Remove and dispose of windfall apples that might be
harboring apple maggot or codling moth larvae.
• Rake and destroy diseased leaves (apple, cherry, rose, etc.),
or hot compost diseased leaves.
• Spray apple and stone fruit trees at leaf fall to prevent
various fungal and bacterial diseases. Obtain a copy of
Managing Diseases and Insects in Home Orchards (EC 631)
from your local Extension office or online.
• If moles and gophers are a problem, consider traps.
• Western Oregon: Control fall-germinating lawn weeds
while they are small. Hand weeding and weeding tools are
particularly effective at this stage.
Houseplants and Indoor Gardening
• Early October: reduce water, place in cool area (50-55F)
and increase time in shade or darkness (12-14
hours) to force Christmas cactus to bloom in late December.
• Place hanging pots of fuchsias where they won’t freeze.
Don’t cut back until spring.
• Western Oregon Check/treat houseplants for disease and
insects before bringing indoors.
13
You are Invited…….
Come learn what the Clatsop County OSU Master Gardener Program is all about.
You are invited to the
Bring-a-Friend Appetizer/Dessert Potluck
w/ guest speaker
Thursday, September 19
4:00 PM
Clatsop Co. Fairgrounds & Demo Garden
Enjoy a presentation on “Foraging, Storing & Preparing Local Mushrooms” with
speaker, Phil Allen.
For more details, see flyer on Page 4
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