New Forum_34_COVER.qxp:HUBE

Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2014
INSIDE LOOK:
SUIT SECRETS
REVEALED
LIFE IN THE
FAST LANE:
ZEGNA DESIGNS
FOR MASERATI
THE
LUXE
LIFE
CONTENTS
Hubert White
747 Nicollet Mall
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55402-1719
612-339-9200
hubertwhite.com
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman
DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser
MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle
PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra
DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti
CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell
MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell
DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie
DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
John Frascone
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP
PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi
PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones
CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
FEATURES
DEPARTMENTS
6
4
10
14
36
38
44
48
Planes, Trains and Automobiles:
Our Eton Travelogue
40 Anniversary: The Soundtrack of Our Lives
42 History: Honoring Arlington
FASHION
12
18
20
22
30
Profile: Brunello Cucinelli
Details: Pairing Patterns
Tailoring: Inside a Suit
The Luxe Life
5 Fall Essentials
Welcome Letter
Ask Forum
The Fashion Forum
World Scene
Wheels: Designed to Thrill
Travel: Magic Kingdom
End Page: My Father, Myself
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P E R F O R M A N C E .
C O L L E C T I O N .
S O F T .
welcome
IT’S ALL ABOUT
RELATIONSHIPS
When asked recently about the secret to our success over the years, I was able to give a one word answer:
relationships. This rather surprised the interviewer, who was looking for a much more complicated and
lengthy response. She was expecting me to talk about the iconic brands represented in our store and the
beautiful way the merchandise is presented. Or maybe go on about the success we have enjoyed since our
remodel a year and a half ago. Or perhaps discuss marketing, merchandising, selling or any of the many
other activities necessary to be a successful retailer.
Instead I went on and on about the value we put on our relationships with our clients, our fellow staff
members, our vendors, our advisors and even our competitors. If these are in order, our merchandising,
marketing and selling decisions will follow and ensure continued success. But if we let any of these relationships falter, continued success will be very difficult to achieve. So yes, it is about the relationships!
Brad Sherman and I had an opportunity last spring to build on our relationship with one of our key vendors, Eton. We visited their production and design facilities in Stockholm and Ganghester, Sweden and
met with their key management and design staff. The pride Eton’s people have in their company and its
product is truly inspiring. It made us appreciate the unique quality of their shirts even more. See the photos beginning on page 6 of this issue for a glimpse into our visit.
Thank you for being a part of our lives and business,
Bob White
Owner
When Bob and I received word that not only had our our applications to Eton College been
accepted but that we were going to attend on full scholarships, our bags were packed.
We kissed our families goodbye and headed to the airport, prepared for 36 hours on planes,
trains and automobiles.
The trip included three cities in three days. Gothenburg was our hub. From there we traveled by car into
Ganghester, a small hillside village in southwest Sweden and home to the original Eton factory, where we
did our “undergrad” work. Back to Gothenburg for lunch and then a spectacular high-speed train trip to
Stockholm. This great city is Eton’s other home, where they have their design offices and retail laboratory.
When you attend an institution of education, opportunity abounds to make lasting relationships.
Our “graduating” class was made up of a unique group of Eton dealers, bloggers and stylists as well as
Eton’s fantastic “faculty.” They educated us, fed us and nurtured us in the ways of Eton as we evolved into
classmate companions. We drank the Kool Aid and became part of the Eton family.
Enjoy our travelogue!
Class is now in session.
Sweden
ETON College,
here we come...
Ganghester
Gothenburg
Stockholm
Arrived groggy, but excited to be in Sweden!
Ganghester is small, quiet and welcoming. After a few
hours to re-coop, it was off to a cocktail reception
and then dinner in a traditional Swedish restaurant.
Incredible food – Sweden is the new hot foodie
country – great bevies, and plenty of introductions
and toasts. We were well on our way to becoming
indoctrinated into the Eton family.
Speeding along at 110 MPH, heading
to Stockholm.
Stalking the streets of Stockholm with Eton global sales Director Erik Wilkinson.
Back fo
r
appetit seconds, Bob
e for oy
sters an shows off his
d her ri
ng.
Getting final instructions on how to consume a
Midsummer cocktail.
The final exam was competitive and difficult. The
assignment: design an Eton necktie. The best design
was produced for the upcoming holiday delivery.
The winner was chosen the night of our graduation by
Jan Borghardt, designer emeritus for Eton, and quite
the ladies’ man. One of the stunning female stylists on
the trip was the winner. Bob and I received our
diplomas at 1:00 AM, after a traditional Swedish
feast, a preview to Midsummer, a Swede’s excuse to
stay awake during almost 48 hours of daylight.
FALL 2014
FASHION TIPS
FOR HIM
Probably not. Although menswear is
evolution rather than revolution,
suits that are more than five years
old, even from the best makers, will
definitely look dated: trousers too
long and baggy, jackets too roomy,
shoulders too padded. Designers
have gradually gone slimmer in
suits, sportcoats and trousers, and
fabrics have evolved so that today’s
suits are more comfortable and travel-friendly than the old stuff in your
closet.
We’re betting you’ll find our fall
’14 suits so comfortable that you’ll
choose to wear them in more casual
settings, even when no suit is
required.
Q:
Is it okay to text or email my
sales associate when I have
a wardrobe question? How can I
maximize our relationship?
Not only is it okay, but they would
totally appreciate it! (Well maybe not
at 3:00 a.m…) Our sales people have a
wealth of information that can help
you look your best every day. They
can email you photos of new items as
they arrive in store that will work
with what you’ve already bought.
They can inform you about the bestfitting jeans. They can help you
10
Q:
I see that a lot of my favorite
brands have their own stores:
do you carry the same styles that
they do?
Sometimes there’s crossover, but we
try to customize our mix to the
needs of our community. While
fashion has become somewhat international, our buyers know their customers personally so it’s easy for
them to fine-tune assortments to
specific tastes and lifestyles.
Another advantage of shopping
an independent store: since we carry
so many top brands, we can suggest
how to mix your favorite pieces so
you’re not dressed head-to-toe in a
single designer. This type of brandblending adds creativity and personality to your look so you won’t see
yourself coming and going. Stop by
and we’ll show you how to do it!
COURTESY OF ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
Q:
Other than for weddings and
special events, I don’t wear
suits much these days. Is it okay to
pull out what’s in my closet for
occasional dress-up events?
match colors and patterns or figure
out which tie to wear with which shirt
collar. (For example, your new skinny
tie is not likely to work with a cutaway collar shirt, but yes, you can
wear the brown suede shoes with
your gray suit!) They can also suggest the perfect gift, wrap it and send
it without you needing to leave your
desk.
Never be afraid to contact your
sales associate for any fashion-related issue: their passion for fine clothing is the reason they chose this
career, and your trust in them is the
ultimate compliment.
profile
The new Cucinelli tailored clothing is crafted in the recently purchased D’Avenza factory, reputed to be the finest in the
world. “Expanding into fine tailoring was a natural evolution
of our menswear collection,” Cucinelli explains. Since suits
require a different level of expertise than sportswear, he
sought out, purchased and collaborated with this highly
respected clothing facility, working carefully with the artisans to ensure that the suits have his particular fit and
relaxed sensibility. These are full-canvas garments, entirely hand-made. It’s “THE JACKET’S HALFLINED INTERIOR
the shoulder that’s particularly unique:
MINIMIZES THE
semi-constructed so that there’s enough
WEIGHT.”
structure for shape (so it doesn’t look
Brunello Cucinelli
like a sweater) but not so much to make
it stiff and unnatural. “The broad but
soft shoulder paired with the trimmer waist and shorter
length of the jacket creates a modern aesthetic. The minimal
construction allows for easy wear; the half-lined interior minimizes the weight and
allows the jacket to conform to the body,”
Cucinelli explains.
While the company
has always been known
for elegant sportswear,
the new emphasis is on
clothes with a more tailored image. Even outerwear has a more sartorial
touch: overcoats are
about six centimeters
longer. Fabrics are less
tech-y and more sartorial, many in fine wools
and cashmeres. The look
is still relaxed, but definitely more professional.
Brunello Cucinelli started out in 1978 at age 25 with
a small workshop, evolving his business into an international luxury brand with more than 1,200 employees. Based in the 14th-century hamlet of Solomeo,
Cucinelli restored a castle to its ancient splendor and
purchased a second facility at the foot of the town. In
addition to his world-class fashion, he is recognized
for his humanistic ideals, placing people at the center
of his enterprise, always with respect for the environment. In 2013 he received an award from the Ministry
for Cultural Heritage for contributing to the moral,
cultural and civic growth of his country.
Brunello Cucinelli
has been recognized
as a custodian of
beauty and creator
of a humanistic
business based on
respect for his
workers, and for the
environment.
Reinventing
THE SUIT
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI IS
CHANGING THE WAY MEN
LOOK, AND FEEL, IN A SUIT.
BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
T
hroughout the ages, men’s
clothing designers have
tried to create suits that
convey both power and comfort, yet too often it’s a tradeoff. Power suits are frequently
rigid and/or overly structured
so the wearer looks uncomfortable; soft suits can lack
shape and substance meaning
the wearer loses the presence
and panache that a proper suit
conveys. But with his recent
foray into tailored clothing,
Brunello Cucinelli is reinventing the suit as a luxury garment that men can live in!
12
Avant Garden 2014
is sponsored by
Platinum Key
The Walker Art Center’s
Annual Benefit
Gold Key
Silver Key
Saturday, September 13
r
Auction
Lead Entertainment
Gold Key Entertainment
Corporate VIP Lounge
Valet
Media partner
Avant Garden
2014
Our 75th
Anniversary Year
Minneapolis Sculpture
Garden
For event details and
ticket levels, visit walkerart.org/avantgarden.
©2014 Walker Art Center
the FASHION forum
PITTI PARTY
T
wice a year, the Tuscan city of Florence, Italy welcomes
1,050 exhibitors and more than 30,000 national and
international fashion industry insiders to Pitti Uomo, a
trade show like no other. Staged in a 16th-century
fortress, Pitti is a place to see and be seen: a promenade affectionately known as Peacock Avenue is packed with men
dressed to the nines, fervently followed by an equally impressive
number of photographers from magazines and websites worldwide. Espresso is sipped in equal measure to bottles of Italian
beer and the quintessential cocktail, an Aperol Spritz.
At the most recent Pitti showcasing spring ’15 fashion, the
world-renowned tenor Andrea Bocelli kicked the show off with
an exclusive one-night performance with the Cameristi del
Maggio Musicale Fiorentino that included an emotive rendition of Schubert’s Ave Maria. The next morning the Prime
Minister of Italy officially opened the show, followed by a whirlwind of fashion shows and festas.
These included a Gucci museum cocktail party, a Z Zegna
performance replete with acrobats and models, an Eton garden
party at the Grand Hotel Villa Medici, a Brunello Cucinelli dinner at Il Giardino Torrigiani and an Ermanno Scervino presentation at the Forte Belvedere (where Kim Kardashian and Kanye
West held their nuptials) with guests including... Kanye West!
Should you ever find yourself in Florence during this celebration of style, soak it all in. It’s one of the sartorial wonders of the
— William Buckley
world.
14
LOOKING GOOD
What do women want? To answer
the age-old question, we surveyed
100 women and asked them to prioritize what they notice first in terms of
male appearance. Not surprisingly,
trumped only by good grooming and
a great smile, women pay attention to
what guys wear. Clearly, good clothes
speak volumes about a man, followed
closely by (in order of priority) his
eyes, his shoes and his watch.
To the question “I would immediately fall in love with a guy
wearing ___ because ___,” we got some terrific responses. A lot of
women mentioned “nice shoes” because “they indicate good taste.”
“A gorgeous sportcoat” because “it exudes confidence, charm and
casual sophistication…” “A cashmere sweater” because “it shows
he’s able to care for something delicate and valuable: today a
sweater, tomorrow a woman…” “Great smelling aftershave or
cologne...” “Upscale casual clothes” because “it shows he’s relaxed
and comfortable with himself…” And perhaps our favorite:
“Anything that looks like he put some thought into it!” Because
“dressing well is an indicator of self-confidence and a display of
respect for colleagues and friends. If he puts thought into his
appearance, one can assume he’ll put thought into his work and his
relationships…”
Time to go shopping!
— Nora McCarten
f i n e s w e d i s h s h i rt m a k e r s i n c e 
The Fashion Forum
J
SPRING ’15 FORECAST
BRIGHT EYED
ust because summer is over doesn’t mean you should
ignore your eyewear. For men this fall, the Vision
Council’s Eyecessorize industry report defines the major
trends as simple, clean-cut square and circular shapes,
colored lenses in standout shades of green and blue, and
metallic and patterned accents on the bridge and arms. In
addition, Eyecessorize also forecasts an increased popularity in
colored frames that offer a welcome break from the standard
black and tortoise options. These new takes on classic eyewear
will keep you seeing the bright side all year long. — NoraMcCarten
We interviewed Sabine Le Chatelier,
of Premiere Vision (the world’s
leading fabric trade show) for her
take on men’s spring fashion. Here’s
what to expect when the weather
warms up:
“According to the top fabric mills,
suiting fabrics will have a more casual
feel for spring ’15, a trend that will
influence all categories of menswear.
Fabrics will feature more synthetics in
the blend, creating a somewhat lustrous
finish: not exactly shiny but technicalinspired in a contemporary way. Lighter
colors are taking hold in suits and
sportcoats: cool tones like pale grays
and shades of blue. There’s also a strong
linen trend in suits, but very
sophisticated, a clear departure from
the soft crinkled linens of yesterday. The new linens are blended
with cotton or wool for a fresh modern look with a rustic touch.
“In ties, expect more non-silk styles that reinforce the casual
message. In sportswear, you’ll see new sophisticated knit tops in
luxury yarns, fashioned into slim T-shirts and polos that work
under a suit or sportcoat. And don’t be afraid to wear prints, even
florals: these are what will separate the men from the boys…”
— Karen Alberg Grossman
STYLISH READS
20th Century Fashion: 100 Years of Apparel Ads by Jim Heimann and Alison A. Nieder is an eyecatching retrospective of the milestones that shaped the world’s style. Creative imagery of 400 fashion
advertisements from the 1900s forms a timeline of the trendsetting looks that defined the
century. With text in English, French and German, 20th Century Fashion documents the
inception of revered brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein and follows their
development as exemplified by their ads. As the years (and the book) progress, a fullpage visual captures the mood of each decade. The beauty and individuality of the advertisements display the overarching advancements in art, print, photography and clothing
designs made in the last century.
Men in This Town by Giuseppe Santamaria is a uniquely presented portrayal of the
modern man’s sartorial style. Through interviews and observations, Santamaria allows us
to get to know a variety of creatively dressed men in their natural habitats, from New
York, London and Milan to Tokyo and Sydney. Candid street shots capture the eccentric
and intriguing trends of each region, taking us on a journey across the globe to explore
how each culture’s traditions impact the way men dress.
The Glass of Fashion, a memoir by Cecil Beaton, shares a man’s muses, influences and
encounters in the 1920s fashion world. As a portraitist and photographer of fashion’s top-notch names,
Beaton became famous for his impeccable taste and discerning eye. He tells how his experiences with
the luxurious likes of Dior and Chanel combined with his personal realities to sculpt his view on fashion and life. First published in 1954, The Glass of Fashion is back on the rack to inspire a new generation of fashionistas.
— Louisa Blasier
16
6KRS Artfully
MAGAZINE
VISIT ARTFULLIVINGMAGAZINE.COM/SHOP
ArtfulLivingMagazine.com
/artfullivingmag
Pairing
Patterns
Typically, there are two mistakes fledgling fashionistas
make in color selections. For
those who favor eye-popping
color combinations, the two
most obvious are 1) choosing
colors that clash and 2) being
too flamboyant. The other, particularly now that tonal ensembles are again stylish, is selecting colors so monochromatic
they fade into one another.
If eye-popping color is your
fashion mantra, avoid colors
that clash, or are flashy and
loud. (Always get a second opinion.) Remember to alternate the
tonal intensity of garments
immediately next to one another; avoid pairing a flamboyantly
colored necktie with an equally
outrageous dress shirt.
Remember, opposites attract.
If monochrome is more your
cup of tea, add visual interest by
varying the color hue in each
garment. Or, layer different, but
related, surface textures atop
similarly colored garments.
Marry a nappy cotton flannel
shirt and a texturally rich wool
necktie to a cashmere sportcoat,
then accent with a wool, linen or
loosely woven cotton pocket
square.
SIMPLE HOW-TOS FOR
ADDING VISUAL INTEREST.
BY ANDY STINSON DIRECTION
Never mind John Molloy, America’s former selfproclaimed fashion guru, who warned three generations of
men against mixing motifs when he wrote in his Dress for
Success to “never put two patterns together.” Those
familiar with fashion history credit this admonition with
putting a near 35-year chill on adventurously styled
menswear. Also to be ignored is Molloy’s equally absurd
“dress code rule” for pattern-mix management: “Always
separate patterns by a solid.” Mind Molloy’s strict advice
and you’ll appear dated and conservative.
There are, however, a few “soft rules” that can be used to
guide you toward interesting, handsome style statements
that consistently garner rave reviews and admiring glances.
A pattern that runs in one direction should never be positioned
immediately next to a garment
with a pattern that runs either
1) in the same direction, or 2) at
a 90-degree angle. Instead,
choose a non-directional (polkadot, paisley, foulard), diagonal
(repp), or multidirectional
(plaid) complement.
MOOD
Sometimes called “attitude,”
mood typically refers to a
garment’s seasonal theme or its
18
position on the elegant-tocasual spectrum. For example,
novelty and conversational
neckwear, along with some repp
and diagonal-striped ties, are
typically sportcoat motifs and
shouldn’t be paired with a
serious dress suit. Seasonally
speaking, madras plaids and
linens are most appropriate
during the warmer months and
should be worn with a blazer or
a lightweight spring suit.
SCALE
Scale refers to a pattern’s size.
Generally subtle in execution
and sometimes indiscernible at
a distance, small- or micro-scale
motifs include pencil and pinstripes, miniature paisleys, pin
dots, graph checks and tattersalls. Large scale motifs are
visually bold, brazen and
aggressively executed: Bengal
and awning stripes, giant paisleys, large scale geometrics,
oversized “nickel” dots and windowpane plaids.
The rule of thumb is to significantly vary the scale of each element in your outfit. To achieve a
visually dramatic but still
sophisticated ensemble, complement a narrow pencil-stripe
dress shirt with a bold diagonalstripe or giant paisley tie.
TEXTURE
Opposites don’t generally
attract when it comes to mixing
and matching textures. For
example, a cashmere or wool
flannel tie is best paired with a
suit in a similarly lofty fabric.
Likewise, pair matte finishes
together, and complement
visually radiant elements with
garments of a similar luster.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRIAN KLUTCH, STYLING BY SHYAM PATEL
details
COLOR
tailoring
Exceptional Interlinings
Zegna suits are full-canvas and made with
the best interlinings in the world. This
allows the jacket to lay beautifully against
your body and ensures longevity.
Superior Production
Quality Buttons
In all, 500 hands from the familyowned, vertically integrated company
contribute to the making of each suit,
from acquiring the wool to weaving
the innovative fabrics to the final
finishing work on your barchetta
breast pocket.
Buttons are made of highquality Corozo, genuine
horn or mother of pearl and
color coated in-house to
perfectly match the hue of
your garment.
LUXURY SUIT
CONSTRUCTION
Modern Fit
Fine Fabric
The slightly shorter jacket and a softer,
more sculpted silhouette will make you
look and feel like a million bucks.
The fine wool fabric “breathes,” so
it’s cool and comfortable even in
overheated office buildings.
Inside a Suit
At first glance, these two dark gray suit jackets appear to be similar. But take
a closer look (or feel) and you’ll quickly see that color is the only thing they
have in common.
The jacket on the left is made by Ermenegildo Zegna, produced in its European factories from one
of its proprietary high-performance fabrics. On the right is a scratchy, boxy bargain version, available
at a national menswear chain famous for its price-slashing promotions. Sure, you can get three for
under $500… but you get what you pay for.
20
Poor Fit
Stiff shoulders and a full,
boxy cut look unnatural and out of
date. You deserve better!
Uncomfortable
Low armholes make moving
uncomfortable: every time you lift
your arms, the entire body of your
jacket lifts with you.
Inferior Fabric
Generic, utilitarian fabric is
rough and wrinkles easily.
IMAGES BY BRIAN KLUTCH, JACKET COURTESY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, PRODUCTION ASSISTANT SHYAM PATEL, SPECIAL THANKS TO TIM PAIT
BARGAIN SUIT
CONSTRUCTION
Cheap Interlinings
Shoddy inner workings are glued
into the suit, so after only a few
cleanings, the glue will begin to
wear down and come through the
fabric in unsightly patches.
In a spoof that aired earlier this year on SNL, comedian Vanessa Bayer suggested that “affordable
and absorbent” suits from this national chain were better suited to wiping spills and soaking up
bacon grease. Because of the chain’s “innovative buy-one-get-three-free pricing,” she explains,
“they’re effectively cheaper than paper towels” and “I can feel good about throwing them away when
I’m done.”
We cringe at the idea of a disposable wardrobe and prefer to invest in classic clothing that’s made
to last. Come into the store and see for yourself why top-quality tailoring is the obvious choice.
21
the
LUXE LIFE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC
STYLING BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY & WENDY MCNETT
HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY
VINTAGE FLAIR
SUBTLE BOLDNESS
SIMPLE ELEGANCE
5
FALL
ESSENTIALS
THE MOST IMPORTANT ITEMS OF THE
SEASON—AND HOW TO WEAR THEM.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GMD THREE STUDIOS / ART DIRECTION & STYLING BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY
1.
THE BOOT
You’ve got dress shoes and
sneakers, but what do you
wear with those casual inbetween looks? This boot
is the answer. Mid-height
boots keep you warm while
still looking fashionable,
and suede or leather can be
worn throughout the winter
except on the wettest of
days. (Don’t forget to
waterproof them before
the first wear.)
FALL
ESSENTIALS
2.
THE CUTAWAY
COLLAR SHIRT
Formerly seen only
on solid dress shirts,
cutaway collars can now
be found as a dressier
detail on patterned sport
shirts. It’s fine to skip the
tie, or try one in knit,
wool or cashmere for a
fun departure from the
standard silk.
3.
THE SLIM SUIT
Before fabric or even
brand, the first thing
others will notice about
your suit is the fit. With
its narrower leg, shorter
jacket, and all around
trim look, the slim suit
can complement any
man, no matter his age or
size. Aim for a very slight
break in the pants; the
hem should just caress
the top of your shoe.
FALL
ESSENTIALS
4.
THE SOFT COAT
This deconstructed jacket
takes the bulk out of layering.
You can move easily, stay
cool, and look put together all
at the same time. Because of
its softer expression, it’s much
more at home with jeans,
cargoes and 5-pocket pants
than your stiffer, structured
sportcoats. It’s a versatile
alternative to a sweater or can
easily be layered over one.
You’ll be 10 times more
comfortable but look just as
appropriate.
COPY BY SHYAM PATEL. FASHION ASSISTANTS LOUISA BLASIER AND SHYAM PATEL. GROOMING BY EMILEA MAUS. MODELS EDUARDO RAMOS AND CHRIS MOSIER @ FORD.
5.
THE WOOL
5-POCKET PANT
The wool 5-pocket pant
is dressier than a jean,
but just as comfortable.
It’s warmer than a chino
or twill, but just as
elegant. It can be
dressed up or down to
take you from the office
to a nice evening out.
Trust us: you’ll be living
in this style all season.
world scene
BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
Experience life’s little luxuries.
BALLET BECOMES YOU
Ballet Hispanico is the foremost Latino dance company in
the United States. This dazzling young group of
wonderfully talented dancers, with a repertoire of over
100 works, creates a brilliant theatrical experience
performed to sold-out audiences in America, Europe and
South America. “We combine the artistry, technique and
physicality of the dancers and imbue ballet with
contemporary and Spanish dance,” explains artistic
director Eduardo Vilaro. “It’s the passion of the Latino
world.” In 2015, Ballet Hispanico will be appearing across
the country in cities including Chicago, New York and
Washington D.C. To get the insider experience, sign on as
a Patron: you’ll meet the dancers, watch rehearsals and
even travel with the company.
Near the markets and not far from the
Majorelle Gardens in Marrakech, secluded
on a quiet, narrow street, a modest door
opens to an elaborate atrium lined with balconies in rich wood. A former 19th-century
palace, the Riad Ayadina is a mixture of
light and shadows, cozy nooks and open
spaces. The three rooms and six suites have
four-poster beds (strewn with rose petals to
celebrate your arrival) and copper baths.
There’s a swimming pool, hot tub and a spa
offering massages, facials and a traditional
Moroccan Hammam bath. The charming
French owner oversees accommodations
and personally arranges the lavish menus.
Have breakfast on the roof terrace with
views over the old city into the mountains,
and dine by candlelight on a three-course
fusion of French and Moroccan cuisine in
your own private courtyard.
36
TOP: COURTESY OF EDUARDO PATINO
ROYAL RETREAT
THIS DESK IS YOUR
NEW BEST FRIEND
NEED A LIFT?
Davos, Switzerland is the highest city in Europe, home to the
amazing Parsenn Mountain (a favorite of freestylers and
snowboarders), and nearby, the new InterContinental Davos.
This opulent hotel with a unique golden egg design by Oikos
has spacious rooms, each with a balcony overlooking Davos and
the mountains. There are three restaurants (at the Capricorn,
an alpine brasserie, culinary director Alex Kroll has created a
surprisingly delicious hay soup, featuring a Champagne/white
wine base and hay grown at or above 2,000 meters). The Alpine
Spa uses La Prairie products and indigenous herbs.
37
If you work hard at your desk, it might be time to
choose one that works as hard as you do.
Incorporating the principle that human beings feel
better when they move around periodically, the Stir
Kinetic Desk can “learn” your habits and remind you
when it’s time to change positions. It can be programmed with your standing and sitting height preferences (a simple double tap will move it up or down),
and can even sense and track your standing time and
the calories burned while you’re on your feet. Plus it’s
WiFi and Bluetooth enabled. Now sit. Good desk.
wheels
DESIGNED TO
Thrill
A LOOK INSIDE THE MASERATI
QUATTROPORTE ERMENEGILDO
ZEGNA LIMITED EDITION.
BY DAVID A. ROSE
Italy is renowned for many fine products: cuisine, wines and luxury
fashions instantly come to mind. But high on the list of Italian
gems are its exotic sports cars. Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati
set the bar for fast and exquisitely designed racing machines.
Every so often this automotive world crosses paths with the world
of high-end fashions, but rarely have the results been so intriguing.
To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Maserati marque, the
company has collaborated with top fashion house Ermenegildo
Zegna to offer a limited series of 100 Maserati Quattroporte highperformance luxury cars. The 100 numbered cars represent each
year Maserati has been in production.
An exclusive Owner’s
When two highly respected global compaCollection kit is
nies
of this caliber work together on a project,
Ermenegildo Zegna’s
gift with purchase.
it becomes a celebration of Italian production
The kit includes
and design not just from a standpoint of
personal accessories
and 10 yards of Zegna mechanical know-how, but also of fabric innosilk in the same
vation. Ermenegildo Zegna was established as
chevron pattern used
a fine woolen mill in 1910 and today is known
on the car’s seats.
not only for its clothing designs, but also for
its unparalleled creation of original fabrics.
Reminiscent of the finest Zegna suit, the silk fabric used for the
car’s roof lining exhibits a tasteful and classic touch. The combination of leather and silk appears in soft shades of gray and cappuccino, which exude the tone of a Zegna menswear collection and give
the vehicle its strong masculine identity. The exterior shade, developed exclusively for the Maserati Quattroporte Ermenegildo Zegna
Limited Edition, is called Platinum Silk. The exterior appeal of the
car is further enhanced by the stunning 20” polished wheels.
To drive a beautiful car is very satisfying, but the experience
would be quite lacking if the car’s performance did not match its
elegant looks. In this regard, the Maserati Quattroporte
Ermenegildo Zegna Limited Edition will not disappoint. Thanks to
its twin turbo V/8 and 530 horsepower, the car can catapult from 0
to 60 MPH in less than 4.7 seconds and reach a top speed of
191. Not only will the owner turn heads as he cruises
along Main Street, but the vehicle’s speed and
handling will impress even the most
accomplished driver.
38
All things come from the Earth
XENOPHANES
THE JOYS OF YOUTH, THE
MAGIC OF MUSIC, CAPTURED
IN PHOTOGRAPHS.
BY WAYNE MAIBAUM
“What would you think if I sang out of tune
Would you stand up and walk out on me
Lend me your ears and I’ll sing you a song
And I’ll try not to sing out of key
I get by with a little help from my friends...”
“Saving up your money for a rainy day
Giving all your clothes to charity
Last night the wife said
Oh boy, when you’re dead
You don’t take nothing with you but your soul…”
40
COURTESY OF MORRISON HOTEL GALLERY: BEATLES IN SURF BY CHARLES TRAINOR; BEATLES IN LIMO BY CURT GUNTHER
anniversary
Soundtrack
of Our Lives
A recent exhibit at Soho’s Morrison Hotel Gallery, curated by
Julian Lennon and showcasing some never-before-seen photographs of The Beatles, reminded me of why we still love
them. For 50 years, The Beatles have been credited with
social change, from setting fashion trends to spurring the fall
of communism! But for most of us, their importance is more
personal: simply put, their music makes us feel good, restoring the promises of youth and providing a universal connection that transcends age, race, religion, politics and all such
superficial barriers. (Imagine!) Our basic human emotions—
love, loss, longing, regret, remorse, elation—continue to resonate in each resounding melody. And mysteriously, the
older we get, the more we seem to get it.
ARLINGTON
A SALUTE TO THE 150TH
ANNIVERSARY OF ARLINGTON
NATIONAL CEMETERY.
BY CALLY JAMIS VENNARE
Arlington National Cemetery has a rich legacy as one of
our national treasures. It serves as the final resting place
for more than 400,000 service members, veterans and their
families from all branches of the military.
“Although not officially a cemetery until 1864, we have veterans from every one of America’s conflicts, beginning with
the American Revolution,” says command historian Dr.
Stephen Carney. Arlington is still an active cemetery, conducting nearly 7,000 services per year.
If you listen closely, the unmistakable sound of Taps might
guide you from the evocative eternal flame, marking the
gravesite of President John F. Kennedy, to the majestic Tomb
of the Unknown Soldier, guarded day and night by the distinguished Tomb Guard sentinel, or Old Guard. Considered to
be the very best of the elite 3rd U.S. Infantry Regiment, the
Old Guard is the oldest active-duty infantry unit in the Army,
serving our nation since 1784.
Sunglasses gleaming, shoes shining, uniform pressed and
fitted to perfection, each guard marches 21 steps behind the
Tomb, pausing for 21 seconds before turning and repeating the
process. Back and forth, stoic and proud. Footsteps always clicking in sync with the number 21, symbolic of the highest honor
that can be bestowed upon the American soldier “Known But to
God”: the 21-gun salute.
Beyond the Tomb, more sights and sounds remain to be
seen, including the open-air Memorial Amphitheatre, where
crowds gather to hear performances and dedications, and
wreath-laying ceremonies that pay respect to our nation’s
fallen heroes. It’s no wonder that Arlington National
Cemetery hosts over three million visitors each year, including dignitaries from around the world. After 150 years, its significance and legacy remain stronger than ever.
A MUSICAL TRIBUTE
Scott Eyerly’s Arlington Sons illuminates a universal experience—the changing of the guard
between generations—in a uniquely American context. The 12-minute duet by bass-baritone
David Pittsinger and his son Richard honors David’s late father, a U.S. Army veteran who served
as a distinguished Tomb Guard at Arlington National Cemetery in the 1950s. It is believed to be
the first-ever musical work written for a real-life father and son. Following premiere performances with the West Point Band and the Pittsburgh Symphony Orchestra and a release on
iTunes earlier this year, Arlington Sons was praised by D.C. radio station Classical WETA:
“Through this lyrical and intimate musical work, a family’s moment on a sunny hilltop becomes a loving lesson in honor,
sacrifice and patriotism.” Pictured at right is Richard Mayne Pittsinger, who served as Tomb Guard from 1954 to 1955.
42
COURTESY OF ISTOCK
history
Honoring
travel
THE CHARMS
OF BHUTAN
ARE NOT WHAT
YOU’D THINK.
By Andrew Isaacs
MAGIC KINGDOM
The sole surviving Himalayan Buddhist Kingdom, Bhutan
is a tiny land of big surprises. Instead of GDP, they believe
in GNH: gross national happiness. Cut off from the rest of
the world until the 1960s, this remote, pristine nation has
recently opened its doors to civilization. But just a crack.
Still, it is said there’s been more change in Bhutan during
these past eight years (cell phones, satellite TV, tourists!)
than there had been in the past 800.
Observing the havoc wreaked by industrialization (and
Western materialism) in neighboring India and China, Bhutan
clings tightly to its Buddhist identity, and to the values its people have treasured for centuries. Still 80 percent agricultural,
neighbors help neighbors in the fields. Traveling from town to
town with our driver and a guide, we were told that the oldest
daughter inherits the family house and farm. “I feel sorry for
the younger daughters,” I quipped, trying to be clever. “Oh no,
it’s not like that,” my guide explained. “We don’t chase wealth;
we would never think that way…” In one town, installing a traffic light to replace the crossing guard caused such an uproar
that the signal was removed, the guard reinstated.
Plan for low-impact hikes along a river’s edge rather
than intense rock- or mountain-climbing, considered
disrespectful to the mountain. Plan to experience a society based on caring for one another, one with minimal
stratification, with equal access to education and health
care. Plan to meet gentle people in traditional garb who
will reinforce your belief in human kindness.
Getting there is tough: there’s one airline with infrequent
flights. And the food is just okay. But you don’t go to Bhutan
for such superficial pursuits; you go for a cultural and spiritual experience unlike any you’ve known. For more info, contact
Aman (the Sanskirt word for peace) Resorts, with beautiful
lodges across the country. They will customize a trip to meet
your needs and fulfill your dreams.
44
Pictured on previous page:
The “Bird’s Nest” is one of
Bhutan’s holiest temples and
a cultural icon.
“I expected to love the majestic views, the peaceful hikes,
the Buddhist temples. But what I most adored was the people,
their culture, the integrity of their lives.”
FAST FACTS ON BHUTAN
History: Was a collection of warring fiefdoms until the early 17th century, when unifed by a leader fleeing religious
persecution in Tibet. Location: Between the Tibetan Plateau and India. Size: 46,500 square kilometers.
Population: 970,000. Topography: From 23,000-foot-high peaks in the north to low-lying plains and deep valleys
separated by high mountain passes. Government: In 2008, transitioned from an absolute monarchy to a constitutional monarchy; held its first election. Religion: Vajrayana Buddhism, Hinduism. The Pharrell Factor: In 2006,
Business Week rated Bhutan the happiest country in Asia.
46
end page
My Father,
Myself
BY LENOR ROMANO
My mother gave up shopping for me by the time I was five.
She gave up shopping with me at seven. Was it because I
was so skinny that I had to buy boys’ slim pants? Or that I
embarrassed her, demanding the stars-and-stripes bell bottom jumpsuit that she considered blasphemous?
Shopping for me became my father’s job. Yes! Very cool!
The man had no patience, so I always got what I wanted just
to get us out of the store. By age 11 I could no longer find
what I dreamt of in the young junior department, so I took to
designing my own clothes. Snakeskin mini skirts, faux pony
midis, leopard fur vests... Fortunately I had an aunt who was a
professional seamstress and could fulfill my desires.
My dad maintained his role as my personal shopper for
expensive things like boots and bags. (We’re talking Granny
boots that tied up to the knee, green suede boots with fourinch platforms, a red vinyl raincoat, a leather hoodie...) He
had great taste, priding himself on always looking “smart.” In
the ’70s, he also had a friend at Botany 500
and was a perfect 40 regular—right off
the rack. There were a few years when
he gained weight in an attempt to
quit smoking, but that was shortlived: he was more concerned about
his wardrobe than his health.
During college I had a summer job
as a “swatch boy” at Cross Country
Clothes. The man I worked for was more
interested in skirts than suits. I fended him off
politely until September, then told him off. I was just 18. I still
managed to get my dad a few samples.
Sadly, I recently had the distinction of helping my mother
select my father’s final outfit. The suit was easy: there were
lots to choose from, though he hadn’t worn one in a long
time. The tie was next. His drawer opened with a smell of
wood and what I imagined was his Noxzema shaving cream.
I knew his ties well: the Countess Mara ones he was so
proud of, the rich madder silks. Then I saw his favorite, a
deep barn red, but it had stains on it, rendering it unusable. (He was meticulous about his appearance; I wondered why he had kept it.) I dug deeper into his tie
drawer, finding wide ties, skinny ties, knit ties... a lifetime of sartorial memories. I selected a paisley, rich in
amber, ocher and plum.
During his final years, I’d made it a point to tell him how
much I loved him. I gave him a card with of all his favorite
expressions typed across it in different colors and fonts. He
studied it for awhile, and then exclaimed “This is all true!” I
gently reminded him that these were his words, the words he
taught me to live by.
They’ve served me well.
“MY DAD
WAS MORE
CONCERNED
ABOUT HIS
WARDROBE
THAN HIS
HEALTH.”
48
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . A N D J E A N S
H U B E R T W H I T E F O RU M FA L L 2 0 1 4