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Press Release
an ke lo ab neg ier sha neg abi ers h ga ane bie rsh ga ane bie rsh ane gab ier sh ga ane bie rsh blk atr tri nsc hna ane gab ier ins chn abl s eg han abi kat rin sch ers han ega bie n abl k atr ins rs eg han abi chn a blk atr ers han ega ins ch nab l bie kat rsh kat r ins rin sch n abl chn ab lka tri nsc h nab lka tri nsc hna blk atr ins c hna blk atr in lka ha nk el sha rin sch nab oh an ke ier chn abl kat lo ha nk gab blk atr ins el oh an ane tri nsc hna r s h ke lo kat sch nab lka nk rin el oh venick cave nickca veni ckc ave g a b i e chn abl ha an ke ins lo ha nk venick cav enickc avenic atr a n enickca el oh kcaven nsc hnahblk ic kcaven ickcav enickc avenic kcaven an ke lo ha nab lka tri b i e r s i ckcave nickca ve nic kcaven nk el oh a kat rin sch ickcav en ickcav enick ca ve ni an ke lo neg ckcave ni ck cav eni c kc ave n ickc ha nk el sha avenic k caven ickcav eni ck caveni oh an ke c k caveni ckc ave nickca venick lo ha nk cave el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el o August 13, 2007 for immediate release 4 l i n e s — Nick Cave, Shane Gabier, Anke Loh and Katrin Schnabl t h e tourism center at 72 west randolph street o c t o b e r 1 1–2 8 o p e n i ng r e c e p t i o n: October 11, 4–7pm g a l l e ry ta l k: October 13, 12 noon ex h i b i t i o n h o u r s: Monday–Thursday 10am-7pm; Friday 10am-6pm; Saturday 10am-5pm; Sunday 11am–5pm Free admission to reception, exhibition and gallery talk 4lines is the debut partnership created at the intersection of four designer/artists: Nick Cave, Shane Gabier, Anke Loh and Katrin Schnabl. The first project of 4lines — an exhibition that explores the edge of fashion, art and performance — will introduce the collaboration between these distinctive designers. Nick Cave’s oeuvre of wearable art explores fashion and its complex relationship to cultural history. “I function as a recycler of material and cultural artifacts,” says the artist, whose work combines layers of meaning as well as materials, techniques and ideas. The collection of Shane Gabier is influenced by the vanguard aesthetic of Antwerp, Belgium, where he worked for designers Veronique Branquinho, Raf Simons and others. Anke Loh’s approach to fashion reflects the intersection of contemporary culture and technology. In her newest project, featuring textiles that emit and reflect light, she “found ways to integrate improbable industrial fibers, movement and light.” Katrin Schnabl uses design as a process and an agent,exploring the junctures where thought and emotion erupt in the world around us. Known for clothing designs attuned to the body’s movement in space and to the purity of sculptural form, her cultural observations are compressed into minimal cut and construction — edge emerges as a crucial border where cloth ends and skin begins. __________ contact: Nick Cave 2251 South Michigan Suite 300 Chicago, IL 60616 312.225.2900 [email protected] Shane Gabier 3233 West Lemoyne Chicago, Illinois 60651 773.727.1876 [email protected] Anke Loh 1808 West Haddon, #2F Chicago, Il 60622 312 428 9100 [email protected] Katrin Schnabl 4143 North Dickinson Chicago, Illinois 60641 773.685.3875 www.katrinschnabl.com ab neg ier sha neg abi ers ha ab neg ier sha ab neg ier sha neg abi ers h ga ane bie rsh ane atr ins nsc hna blk gab ier sh chn abl kat ga ane bie rsh rin sch n abl ane gab ier sh k atr ins chn ga ane bie rsh a blk atr ins ane gab ier ch nab l kat sha rin r ins chn sch n abl kat ab lka tri nsc h nab lka tri nsc hna blk atr ins c hna blk atr in an ke lo lka tri ha nk el sha rin sch nab oh an ke ier chn abl kat lo ha nk gab blk atr ins el oh an ane tri nsc hna s h ke lo nk sch nab lka rin i e r chn abl ha el oh kat a venick cave nickca veni ckc b an a ke g insvenick cav enickc ave lo ha nk atr a n enickca avenic el oh kcaven nsc hnahblk ic kcaven ickcav enickc avenic kcaven an ke lo ha nab lka tri b i e r s i ckcave nickca ve nic kcaven nk el oh a kat rin sch ickcav en ickcav enick ca ve ni an ke lo neg ckcave ni ck cav eni c kc ave n ickc ha nk el sha avenic k caven ickcav eni ck caveni oh an ke c k caveni ckc ave nickca venick lo ha nk cav el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el August 13, 2007 __________ 4lines mission statement In the early twentieth century, many artists used clothing as social commentary and to develop their own mythology and artistic practice. A century later, the boundaries between the creative endeavors of art and design remain in a state of constant and active (re)-negotiation. Four Chicago- based designers/artists — Nick Cave, Shane Gabier, Anke Loh, and Katrin Schnabl — have joined forces under the name title: 4lines to continue this exploration of dress through a number of forth coming exhibitions, presentations, and performances. 4 l i n e s ’ mission is to provide a platform to examine the work of four fashion designers who parallel artists in their conceptual approaches, and to situate the interrelationship between art and designs more fully within the discourse of contemporary culture. Nick Cave, Shane Gabier, Anke Loh, and Katrin Schnabl individually explore the architecture of the body, the sexualized body, and the deconstructions of the body, reflecting contemporary anxieties and suppositions related both to the body itself and the emotional resonances connected to it. 4LINES will present this work on the body — both adorned and unadorned — addressing the roles of masquerade and fantasy role-playing; the need to reveal and conceal; the beauty of imperfections on the concealed body concealed; the tawdry and perverse; and the mundane. The designers not only transform codes of dress through construction and deconstruction, but draw on influences as varied as art, film, philosophy, architecture, craft and performance. Fashion and art share similar impulses: grappling with a specific form, attempting to create a new language, breaking with tradition, resolving form with content, working with a set of materials, and contributing to a larger dialogue. The projects created by 4lines should not be seen as simply a functional relationship between the body and the creation of clothes, but instead seen as a platform for commenting on contemporary concerns, especially reconsideration of the flesh, and the pleasures and pains of forming an identity. __________ a b o u t f a s h i o n f o c u s c h i c a g o 2 0 0 7 Fashion Focus Chicago 2007 is presented by the City of Chicago with various Chicago industry organiz ations, schools, agencies and independent designers. For more information and complete event details please visit www.fashionfocuschicago.com or call the Department of Cultural Affairs at 312 744 2400. ...a mazi ng desi gn that cont empl ates and brin gs out disc reet esse nces ... Photo: Michelle Cardozo exceedin gly handsome , bizarrel y perfect. ..wonder fully odd... ab neg ier sha neg abi ers ha ab neg ier sha ab neg ier sha neg abi ers h ga ane bie rsh ane atr ins nsc hna blk gab ier sh chn abl kat ga ane bie rsh rin sch n abl ane gab ier sh k atr ins chn ga ane bie rsh a blk atr ins ane gab ier ch nab l kat sha rin r ins chn sch n abl kat ab lka tri nsc h nab lka tri nsc hna blk atr ins c hna blk atr in an ke lo lka tri ha nk el sha rin sch nab oh an ke ier chn abl kat lo ha nk gab blk atr ins el oh an ane tri nsc hna s h ke lo nk sch nab lka rin i e r chn abl ha el oh kat a venick cave nickca veni ckc b an a ke g insvenick cav enickc ave lo ha nk atr a n enickca avenic el oh kcaven nsc hnahblk ic kcaven ickcav enickc avenic kcaven an ke lo ha nab lka tri b i e r s i ckcave nickca ve nic kcaven nk el oh a kat rin sch ickcav en ickcav enick ca ve ni an ke lo neg ckcave ni ck cav eni c kc ave n ickc ha nk el sha avenic k caven ickcav eni ck caveni oh an ke c k caveni ckc ave nickca venick lo ha nk cav el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el katrin schnabl artist statement biography My fashion design is deeply informed by collaborating with performing artists, translating abstract concepts through construction into subtle, tactile costumes. Visual attributes expand movement, explore extensions, negative space, flow, and patterns, and emotional attributes enhance and sharpen the performer’s sense of their role. Then I reconfigure these fine lines. Before branching out into her own ventures, german native Katrin Schnabl worked with fashion luminaries Jil Sander, Robert Danes, and Carolina Herrera before branching out into her own ventures. She was co-founder and principal designer of the company Miche Kimsa for eight seasons, before launching her signature collection in 2002. Known for clothing designs attuned to the body’s movement in space and to the purity of sculptural form, her cultural observations are compressed into minimal cut and construction. I chose lineamente as a name, as it suggests both trailing, defining lines, emphasizing vault lines created by the underlying motion or tension. By observing where thought and motion erupt and how the ‘weakest’ area gives way to expose what is contained underneath, there is a re-negotiation of form, of edge, of outline, of lineament. This encourages a certain fearlessness — it is futile to take sides, the exposure of the inside reflects but a shift in perception. Edge emerges as a crucial border where cloth ends and skin begins, where texture of cloth borders on air and space. There is something very lyrical about bridging the emerging juxtapositions, a continuity of thoughts lingering, unraveling, trailing off, of questions unanswered and sutras. She has designed extensively for dance and performance artists, such as Trisha BrownCompany, DD Dorvillier, Doug Elkins Dance Company, John Jasperse, Jennifer Monson, Jody Oberfelder Dance, Troika Ranch, and many others. A graduate of New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, Schnabl and her fashions have been featured in Women’s Wear Daily, Wired, GapD, the New York Times, the Village Voice, and Dance Insider. Her collections were chosen for inclusion in the Gen Art Fresh Faces in Fashion 2004, the Chicago Cultural Center’s ‘Food and Fashion: Eight on a Plate’ exhibition, Macy’s CHIC: Designers of Chicago runway show, ‘Elements of Fashion: Line and Sculpture’ exhibit at the Chicago Tourism Center, and presented in runway shows at New York Fashion Weeks. Schnabl was a finalist in sportswear and eveningwear in the Gen Art Styles 2000 International Design Competition. Schnabl has taught at Parsons School of Design, and is currently on faculty in the fashion department at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. contact: Lineamente Studio 4143 North Dickinson Chicago, Illinois 60641 773.685.3875 www.katrinschnabl.com Photo: James Prinz ans ansformer sformertr n a r tra nsf orm ert ran sfo rme t r e m r o ans for mer tra nsf r a n s frtr orm ert ran sfo rme rtr ans for nsformert mer tra nsf orm ert formertra ran sfo rme rtr ans for m an ke lo ga ane bie rsh ane gab ier sh ga ane bie rsh ga ane bie rsh ane gab ier s eg han abi ers blk atr tri nsc hna han ega bie ins chn abl rs eg han abi kat rin sch ers han ega bie n abl k atr ins rs eg han abi chn a blk atr ers han ega ins ch nab l bie kat rsh kat r ins rin sch n abl chn ab lka tri nsc h nab lka tri nsc hna blk atr ins c hna blk atr in lka ha nk el sh rin sch nab oh an ke ier chn abl kat lo ha nk gab blk atr ins el oh an ane tri nsc hna s h ke lo nk sch nab lka i e r chn abl ha el oh kat rin a venick cave nickca veni ckc bins an a ke g ave nickca lo venick cav enickc avenicha nk el oh a n eatr kcaven nsc hnahblk ic kcaven ickcav enickc avenic kcaven an ke lo ha nab lka tri b i e r s i ckcave nickca ve nic kcaven nk el oh a kat rin sch ickcav en ickcav enick ca ve ni an ke lo neg ckcave ni ck cav eni c kc ave n ickc ha nk el sha avenic k caven ickcav eni ck caveni oh an ke c k caveni ckc ave nickca venick lo ha nk cav el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el n i c k c av e artist statement biography My works function as transformative agents in several ways. To begin with, I function as a recycler of material and cultural artifacts, in that I use a wide array of found and natural material, which I often alter in addition to combining them in unique ways. My cornucopia of materials include found objects such as manufactured an hand-made fabrics, beads and sequins, cast-offs such as bottle caps and old toys and natural objects such as twigs and hair. More importantly, my work functions as transformations of the spirits, much as garments do when used in ritual ceremonies, often to facilitate the embodiment of goals or natural forces. A parallel transformational function of high fashion is equally relevant, in which the wearer employs clothes to create a persona. A graduate form the Kansas City Art Institute and a Masters for the Cranbrook Academy of Art, Nick Cave joined The School of The Art Institute in 1990 and now serves as Chair of the Department of Fashion and Design. Cave designed and marketed his own line of men and women’s clothing and ran a successful retail clothing company, ROBAVE in Chicago for 10 years and sold to 200 retailers national and international before turning exclusively to his artistic and teaching practice. His work has been exhibited in museums and galleries in the United States and Europe, including the Studio Museum in Harlem, MOCA Jacksonville, Telfair Museum Savannah Georgia, the Mattress Factory, The Art Connexion in Amsterdam and the Zachata National Gallery of Art Warsaw Poland. Nick has been invited to residency programs around the world. He is represented by Jack Shainman Gallery in New York. Recipient of a prestigious Louis Comfort Foundation grant, USA Artist Grant, Creative Capital Grant, Joyce Award, Richard Driehaus Foundation Award and the Illinois Art Council grant and most recently the N’DIGO Award. Cave has been featured in such publications as Art News, Art in America, Sculpture magazine and the New York Times. In his clothing-and figurative based sculptures, collages, installations and performances, artist Nick Cave explores the use of textiles and clothing as conceptual modes of expression. Full-body sculpture that recall ethnographic dress and composed of ephemeral materials such as twigs, dryer lint, bottle caps and recycled garments, the SOUNDSUITS are designed to rattle and resonate with expressive body movements of the wearer. Bringingwestern culture and ceremonial ritual, they are catalysts for contemplating the condition of the black male in contemporary society. Whether displayed as sculptural forms in museums and galleries or worn as ceremonial garments in performances as video, Cave’s intricately constructions pose fundamental questions about the human conditions in the social and political world. African ceremonial costumes and masks are obvious points of reference. Many of my soundsuits and accessories recall the African positing of spiritual power in objects. My ability to make objects come alive is also a testament to my ability to have things resonate with their past history and usages alongside my personal though usually opaque meanings. I want my work to open up vistas to many cultures (including our own), explores a wide range of materials and formal approached, and looks inwardly as it examines personal and cultural identity in relation to the world. contact: Nick Cave 2251 South Michigan Suite 300 Chicago, IL 60616 312.225.2900 [email protected] Photo: Saverio Truglia elo t www.ank nkeloh.ne a . w net www .an kel oh. net www w w t e n net www o h .oh. k e lkel .an kel oh. net w . a n.an oh.net ww www.ankel h.net w .ankel h.net www ww.ankelo oh.net an ke lo ga ane bie rsh ane gab ier sh ga ane bie rsh ga ane bie rsh ane gab ier s eg han abi hna blk lka tri nsc ers han ega atr ins chn bie rs eg han abl kat rin abi ers han ega sch n abl k atr bie rs eg han ins chn a blk abi ers han ega atr ins ch nab bie l kat rsh kat r ins rin sch n abl chn ab lka tri nsc h nab lka tri nsc hna blk atr ins c hna blk atr in ha nk el sh rin sch nab oh an ke ier chn abl kat lo ha nk gab blk atr ins el oh an ane tri nsc hna s h ke lo nk sch nab lka i e r chn abl ha el oh kat rin a venick cave nickca veni ckc bins an a ke g ave nickca lo e venick cav enickc avenicha nk el oh a n atr kcaven nsc hnahblk ic kcaven ickcav enickc avenic kcaven an ke lo ha nab lka tri b i e r s i ckcave nickca ve nic kcaven nk el oh a kat rin sch ickcav en ickcav enick ca ve ni an ke lo neg ckcave ni ck cav eni c kc ave n ickc ha nk el sha avenic k caven ickcav eni ck caveni oh an ke c k caveni ckc ave nickca venick lo ha nk cav el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el anke loh artist statement biography My creative pursuits compel me to examine differences between peoples cultures, landscapes, streetscapes, sights, and sounds. I work to discover the extraordinary in the seemingly mundane facets and materials that weave the fabric of everyday life in a given culture. My work explores how these cultures are defined by their pace, and by the idiosyncratic behaviors and perspectives of their people. My recent Dressing Light project evolved as a series of responses to the physical and cultural differences I found between Chicago and Antwerp, where I resided for over a decade before joining the fashion faculty of the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. Loh studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, earning a BFA in 1998 and an MFA in 1999. Her fashion design and art have been shown worldwide, including the recent Dressing Light project at UBS Tower and the Chicago Cultural Center; an installation in Liebfrauen Church, Münster, Germany; at Gallery Simone Gaubatz in Paris; Museu Tèxtill de la Indumentària in Barcelona; and the Musée d’Art & Industrie in Saint-Etienne, France. The Anke Loh collection has been presented in runway shows at the Centre Pompidou in Paris; the Osaka Collection Show in Japan; and Mode 2001 Landed in Antwerp. Loh designs costumes for theatre and dance companies, including Rosas / Anne Teresa de Keersmaeker in Brussels, and Sasha Waltz in Berlin. In addition, Loh was honored as a Laureate at the Festival International des Arts et de la Mode in Hyères, France. contact: Anke Loh 1808 West Haddon, #2F Chicago, Il 60622 312.428.9100 [email protected] Photo: timkleinphoto.com shanegabi sha neg abi ers han ega bie rsh anegabier h s r e i b a ane gab ier g e abi ers han ega sha a nneg bie r egabiersh abiershan g e n a h s r e i b a g e n a sh er ershaneg shanegabi abiershan egabiers ab neg ier sha neg abi ers ha ab neg ier sha ab neg ier sha neg abi ers h ga ane bie rsh ane atr ins nsc hna blk gab ier sh chn abl kat ga ane bie rsh rin sch n abl ane gab ier sh k atr ins chn ga ane bie rsh a blk atr ins ane gab ier ch nab l kat sha rin r ins chn sch n abl kat ab lka tri nsc h nab lka tri nsc hna blk atr ins c hna blk atr in an ke lo lka tri ha nk el sha rin sch nab oh an ke ier chn abl kat lo ha nk gab blk atr ins el oh an ane tri nsc hna s h ke lo nk sch nab lka rin i e r chn abl ha el oh kat a venick cave nickca veni ckc b an a ke g insvenick cav enickc ave lo ha nk atr a n enickca avenic el oh kcaven nsc hnahblk ic kcaven ickcav enickc avenic kcaven an ke lo ha nab lka tri b i e r s i ckcave nickca ve nic kcaven nk el oh a kat rin sch ickcav en ickcav enick ca ve ni an ke lo neg ckcave ni ck cav eni c kc ave n ickc ha nk el sha avenic k caven ickcav eni ck caveni oh an ke c k caveni ckc ave nickca venick lo ha nk cav el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el oh an ke lo ha nk el shane gabier artist statement biography My work throughout recent seasons has been a study of color, volume, depth, and layering, as well as the deconstruction of these notions: layers that do not truly exist; a sense of perceived depth, and volumes created with the use of simple geometric shapes. Concurrently, I have become increasingly interested in the examination of Early American craft: quilting, patchwork, and hand-stitching. What I search for in my work is a sense of emotion, and a suggestion of atmosphere. By showing evidence of the human hand, I hope to bring this sentiment into the garments. Designer Shane Gabier’s meticulously constructed contemporary fashions have drawn inspiration from the avant-garde ateliers of Antwerp, Belgium, where he worked under such designers as Jurgi Persoons and Dirk Schonberger. But they draw equally on a range of other cultural and historical influences, from the Native American collections at Chicago’s Field Museum of Natural History, seen in the blanket-like wraps and warm colors of his Fall 2005 collection, to Edwardian sensibilities, subtly evoked in the silhouettes and ornamental details of his Spring 2006 line. I have found the unlikely intersection of Op-Art and early American handcrafts to be a compelling point from which to work. The dedicated handwork and rudimentary constructions of craft simultaneously compliment and contrast Op-Art’s perfect lines. My current work deals with the ideas of dimensionality versus flat-form, perfection versus imperfection, and reality versus illusion. After earning his BFA from the School of the Art Institute in 1998, Gabier took internships with some of Europe’s most aesthetically advanced workshops in Antwerp. Upon returning to the States in 2001, he began to develop his own women’s line. His understated collections have taken the spotlight at the GenArt runway shows, and at Open End Gallery’s 2003 and 2005 Fashionism exhibitions. He has received wide local and national media coverage, and in 2005 was the recipient of the Style Makers and Rule Breakers award from the Fashion Group International. In 2004, Gabier designed uniforms for New York City’s Hotel QT, and in 2005 created costumes for the independently released film, “Interkosmos”. contact: Shane Gabier 3233 West Lemoyne Chicago, Illinois 60651 773.727.1876 [email protected]
