Turbo 2001 Toyota Celica VVTI handover2

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Turbo 2001 Toyota Celica VVTI.
244bhp.
Hand over documentation
This is a heavily modified generation 7 toyota celica that's in great condition. Normally this
type of Celica is 140bhp, but its much improved with the 244bhp that it has now. It also has
all the parts and tuning to make the power safely and control it well. Although I've
developed it as a bit of a sleeper targeting GT style performance (ie grand touring, not GT4),
it could so easily be a track day car (done that, its great) or a show winner - it's ready for
someone to take it in a new direction or just love it and drive it. This is a truly rare car.
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The stock car:
2001 Y reg Toyota Celica VVTI with premium pack. Exterior and interior in good condition
and well cared for.
87000 miles
Leather seats, Climate control, Driver, passenger and side airbags, Electric mirrors, Electric
windows, Electric sun roof, Power assisted steering, Remote locking, ABS, Immobiliser, Front
fog lights, Heated door mirrors, 6 speed gearbox, Split/fold rear seats, Height adjustable
driver’s seat, Rear wiper, Steering wheel rake adjustment, Locking wheel nuts
Full FSH up to the point of turboing at 40000 miles,
Oil changed every 2000-4000 miles since, with the occasional stamp from an independent
garage.
12 months MOT
Lots of receipts
How to care for the car
To keep the car running well I have been following the following schedule of maintenance.
How often
What
Tank petrol
Car is tuned on optimax which I pretty religiously have used. Other
97 ron is OK, but stay away from supermarket rubbish. Runs on
95ron when desperate (Scottish islands etc), but go easy until its
flushed through.
3000 miles
Change the oil. I have been using 5w30 fully synth valvoline, it takes
normal
5 US ‘quarts’ each time, and should be filled to 1cm above max line.
driving
Toyota updated the dipstick so there was more oil in the engine a
couple of years ago, moving the max line 1cm up.
6000 miles
Change the oil filter while doing the 3000 mile oil change. I have
always used genuine TRD filters.
12000 miles
Full normal service, check sparks etc. Change gearbox oil with
suitable helical LSD compatible synthetic stuff. Usually takes ~3L
(from memory). Check the MAF is clean and clean or replace as
required.
As required,
Change coolant. See last page for info.
20k miles+
Tyre pressure 32psi on the front, 28-30 on the back. Increase if carrying big loads.
The modified bits, 244bhp/230lbft supplied by:
C2 turbo kit, Garrett gt28r turbo pushing ~12PSI of boost - If inspecting or removing the
turbo this can be done by loosening engine mounts and pushing the engine forward a little –
no need to remove the engine. If increasing boost significantly, many of the hose clips in
use may need beefed up
front mount intercooler – pretty simple. If going for significantly more power, probably
worth increasing size, although that will affect the spool speed.
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Greddy Emanage blue tuned against boost, with timing harness installed. USB port for this
located in the glove box for easy access. Unit at passenger’s left foot
Most work is done in the Additional injection map
The –ves in the airflow adjustment is to match the UDR o2 calibrator settings in closed loop.
Its better to remove fuel here as this also influences the timing and the car drives better,
also the boost/throttle combinations are better accounted for using these 2 maps in this
way. The top section of the map is all zeroed out as this is in open loop, which is entirely
taken care of in the additional injection map.
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Underdog racing o2 calibrator – enriches high throttle closed loop operation. Basic MAP
installed and emange tuned sympathetically (all the –ve values in the injection map). Black
box Installed next to under bonnet fuse box. Open the box to access the serial interface.
In the o2 calibrator map a value of 10 results in an unchanged o2 signal. Less than this fools
the ECU into adding fuel. As can be seen above at some rpm we start adding extra fuel at
1PSI and add more as the boost rises. This seems to work well, keeping EGT’s under control
in high part throttle situations.
Greddy Emanage Profec e-01 boost controller and display showing boost, AFR and rpm.
This is set up to keep the bypass valve shut until 5PSI, greatly improving spinup. It is then
manually set to get to and hold around 12PSI. The main scale is boost, and the AFR maps as
follows: 5 on the scale = 10:1 afr, 15 on the scale = 20:1. Obviously looking to hover around
10 on the scale for 14.7:1 while cruising. Hand controller in the glove box. Main unit cable
tied behind glovebox.
The E-01 doesn’t boot properly if it has power for a few seconds, looses it, then gets
power again. Not sure why, its been like this since I fitted a replacement unit after the orig.
was stolen. Because the E-01’s MAP feed is needed for the e-manage, if the e-01 isn’t
running (blank screen), don’t drive it. To avoid this, go from e-01 right off to engine started
all at once, don’t pause at engine on but not running.
Greddy EGT gauge - normal cruising temp is ~600 deg c, and I’ve told been not to worry
unless you see over 850. On track or on a long pull up a hill I have seen 750 with no
negative effects.
230cc injectors – these are pretty much maxed at the current bhp, but are Toyota parts with
a better spray pattern than many after market parts.
innovate motorsports LC1 AFR/o2 sensor - displayed though the e01. Com ports and
calibration button behind the panel at the drivers left knee.
RPS max clutch – holding well at this power level, getting hard to get into first tho, suspect
bad choice of oil at last change. Biting point has always been very very low.
C2 helical LSD – LHD unit, not a problem now, but the left hand drive shaft had to be
machined slightly to fully engage.
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Race logic traction control with launch control. Control box for setting % slip allowed in
glove box. Press red button for launch control (not used very much, but at a £35 option on
the system, why wouldn’t you??). Installed hard up against Toyota ECU, serial port attached
in red electric tape, and must be wired in closest to the injectors to work.
255lph fuel pump – if removing this be very careful on re-assembly. A seal will burst if seal
and spacer are installed in the wrong order, leading to low pressure, difficultly starting car,
and weird AFRs. Spare seal supplied.
knock link shift light/knock monitor – piggybacking on the Toyota knock sensor and a
strong tendency to false positive. Tested on the dyno with det cans checking. Probably
needs its own knock sensor.
morroso baffled and increased capacity oil pan – as per the oil instructions above. Vastly
increases the reliability of the engine, esp on the track
Full stainless steel custom exhaust with sports CAT
the stop:
freakyparts 324mm, 4 pot big red brembo style brakes. Talk to freaky parts about
disks/pads etc.
braided brake hoses
Clifford alarm system with proximity and glass break sensors, and turbo cooler timer – with
engine running and the key still in press Clifford then lock/unlock to activate cool down
timer (set to 2mins). With the car locked, Clifford, Clifford, boot button to disable glass and
proximity sensors. Repeat to disable tilt/motion sensors (for ferry etc). It has a dead lock
that activates if you don’t start the car within 30 seconds of unlocking, to defeat this turn
the car to on, press the lock/unlock button then start the engine. As above for the E-01, do
this rapidly to ensure the E-01 boots properly – Click turn with no pause. Sensitivity of
proximity sensors can be changed through combination on the remote, but I have lost my
note of the sequence.
the control:
TRD Sportiva full suspension setup (shocks, springs, roll bars)
front strut bar
P zero nero 215/40/17 tyres (2 new, 2 with 6mm left)
the comfort, styling and convenience:
Cruise control – slide the switch to enable, then up to engage, brake/clutch to disengage.
Up and down adjust the speed, down resumes at previous speed. Uses vacuum for power,
so won’t take the car into +ve boost. If removing TB or throttle cable reinstall the pair of
throttle cables carefully to ensure alignment otherwise throttle can jam part open.
Auto dipping rearview mirror
HID/xeon lights
Liquid skin sound deadening in doors and boot
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17" TSW catilina wheels
TRD bonnet scoop
Enlarged boot
removable towbar (key in the manuals box)
new PIAA wipers
Pioneer stereo with iPod/bluetooth/MP3/handsfree integration. Use the remote in ash tray
to control iPod and phone functions, head unit doesn’t quite have enough buttons.
c-one under panel – keeps the grime and any stones away from the oil pan.
rear parking sensors
VVTT-i badge
thoughts on upping the power
The car is very deliberately tuned to around 250 bhp. There is good evidence that the 1zz
can only reliably take up to 250 wheel power without modifying the internals, see the sticky
on newcelica.org titled ‘how much boost I can or should run’. With this in mind I targeted
250bhp at the crank, giving me a 17% margin of error. To go more than 10-15bhp over the
current tune (doesn’t matter how this is achieved, all that matters is the power) the
conrods, pistons and injectors need replacing, if taking the engine apart for these its worth
doing the bearings at the same time. Likely its worth replacing all the jubilee clips on the
intake side for something with more clamping strength also. That should be it up to
~320bhp. After that a new turbo may be needed, exact figures will depend on too many
factors for me to guess at. The emanage can control a 5th injector too if extra fuel is needed.
Not sure where that leaves the power, exercise for the reader.
Everything else should hold out I believe, but don’t guarantee.
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Under the bonnet map
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
MAF
Traction control ECU
UDR o2 piggyback
Cruise control components
Traction control interface serial port
Boost sensor
The 1 bit of the boost system I’m not totally convinced is tight enough
Boost control solenoid
Toyota ECU and much wiring loom soldering
Fuse box
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Problems I’ve had and overcome
Some of these are quite ancient, but I wanted to pass over as much info and history as
possible. Some of these fixes may confuse mechanics, and you have to make sure they
don’t undo them, or recognise when they do.
1) Hesitation at eg roundabouts, eventually becomes ‘ball bearings in the exhaust noise’
If the MAF gets dirty it stops registering changes in air flow so quickly. This initially makes
the car feel laggy, especially off the mark. As it gets worst the car will start running
significantly lean, and will eventually cause disaster – lean leads to knock, which destroys
conrods and pistons.
Leanness can be spotted either on the air fuel ratio in the dash, the EGT running hot, or the
knock light flashing more continuously than normal. If you can hear something that sounds
like ball bearing in the exhaust, STOP ACCELERATING. Cruise without causing the noise to
somewhere that you can clean or replace the MAF. This problem has been mostly fixed now
and the MAF no longer gets dirty, so I just replace the MAF once every couple of years and
forget about it – they should be about £120 from Mr T.
To install a new MAF you need to drill out the mount holes an extra 1mm to take the hex
bolts used on the car.
I clean the MAF using fairy liquid when needed. Spare included in sale.
2) Starting up on really cold days
Since Mr T stopped making proper MAFs for celicas (they changed the part number in 2009
and fobbing us off with something that works, but reads different voltages) I’ve had a
problem with starting the car in sub zero temps. Normally it’s just hard to get to catch, and
once its going the Check Engine Light comes on, its idles at 12:1 AFR and is generally a dog.
Checking the CEL codes says all kinds of bad things – misfires on various cylinders and a MAF
failure. Let the car warm for a minute or 2 then stop and use the ODBII reader to clear the
fault. Everything goes back to normal.
The last time this happened however it actually blew a fuse. Replace the fuse, clear the
faults and all is fine. I’ve never worked out exactly why this happens.
Having swapped back to an older MAF, I hope this may be fixed. Possibly worth hunting out
the old MAFs or arranging swaps with people. The new part doesn’t matter on NA celicas
obviously, but this one doesn’t like them.
Intake
3) Boost pipes blowing out
The boost pipes are all OK, but just occasionally one will blow off, especially if a garage had
to loosen some for whatever work they were doing. Noticeable mostly by a sudden
reduction in power! Once I was obviously back down to 140bhp, another time I could still
make ~3PSI of boost so would have been at about 180bhp. It is generally fine, just stay out
of WOT and let the ECU limp you home. If however the AFR starts wandering weirdly or its
just not driving right, its probably a connection after the MAF that is leaking. That needs
fixed before you go anywhere.
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4) Hesitation on hard left hand corners
This should be totally fine now, but after the traction control was first installed hard left
handers (eg coming off a roundabout fast) the car would seem to hesitate a little. This was
eventually traced back to the TC’s ECU having an exposed wire that was shorting out and
rebooting the TC ECU, which kills the injectors.
5) Exhaust leak
The exhaust manifold flexes slightly as it heats and cools, and this can lead to slight leaks
over time. If it happens you can hear chuff chuff chuff noises when in boost. Doesn’t really
affect the car much. Just now there are a combination of exhaust gaskets that have worked
for the last 10k miles fine, and its got APR exhaust studs in now for increased clamping.
6) Don’t let anyone re-route the oil catch can
If it doesn’t have -ve pressure on it the car hates it.
7) Pulling to one side under acceleration or loud noise from gearbox/engine
Most likely one of the front tyres is a little down on pressure, and the LSD really doesn’t like
that. Keep the front tyres in particular at an equal pressure.
8) Squeaky aux belt
Just happens on celicas, esp in cold damp conditions. Lightly coat the edges with a very
little copper grease to fix.
9) Alarm system occasionally goes a bit weird.
It sometimes goes off when locking the car, just press the lock button again to silence.
According to it, it’s the bonnet sensor that is triggering, but I can’t see anything wrong.
The proximity sensor occasionally goes mad and starts going off at nothing. It doesn’t like
being parked with too much stuff around the front of the cockpit – eg in my carport with 2
brick columns at one end, I can’t have these near the windscreen. Park the other way so
they are near the back of the car and it’s happy. This may be related to the battery slowly
draining? If it happens, disarm the proximity sensors (Clifford, clifford, boot) and park
somewhere the car prefers. Hasn’t been a problem for almost a year.
10) Centre caps on wheels
Don’t like track days and just seem to come off very easily, especially on the front. Remove
them before going on the track, just in case. 1 spare included.
11) external temp sensor. Has stopped working, I suspect a short further up the control
loom. A sew sensor is installed just in front of the intercooler, but is disconnected – no
reading is better than -30. Only relates to the climate control.
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To be overcome
1 bad area of tune (runs 12:1 at 1% throttle on very light loads at ~2500rpm), which can be
annoying to get through an MOT. That point is actually open loop, so removing fuel only
works for a few minutes (long enough for an MOT!). I suspect long term it needs more fuel
(around the edges of open/closed loop tuning the piggy back is counter intuitive).
Difficult clutch. Probably just needs new oil (talk to oppie oils about whats best for the LSD)
Wrong sized battery.
Last time the car was in for a service it needed the battery replaced. A physically smaller
one has been installed, and this seems to drain a little too quick for comfort . It seems the
car needs taking somewhere every ~10 days or it may not start. Jumping it off another car
has been working, but were I keeping the car, a replacement OEM capacity one would be
going in pretty soon.
This turns out it may have just been a duff battery. See how you get on with its
replacement.
Backfire after failing to start
If the battery isn’t up to starting the car, a fairly potent mix of fuel and air is left in the
pistons. After fixing the battery this can cause a backfire, which has on 2 occasions blown
one of the connections on the intake manifold. I decided not to increase the clamping force
on this connection as I don’t think it comes off in normal driving, and having somewhere for
the backfire pressure to vent to seems like a good idea. Padded pipe behind the throttle
cables is the problem one.
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Reset the ECU
Use this procedure to reset the ECU for any reason without having to disconnect the
battery. If its just a CEL you are trying to eliminate, use the ODBII scanner.
Open the fuse box cover:
Then use the fuse puller on the left to pull the circled fuse for 30 seconds.
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Celica Coolant Bleeding Procedure
Advice taken from: http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=192777
This is the method I have found to work best for bleeding the coolant at home in the
driveway. There are better ways (vacuum system) if you have a fully equipped automotive
shop. This is merely my opinion, not an official or approved repair, and I take no
responsibility for the health and wellbeing of anyone who uses it or their vehicles.
Important Note: The engine and hoses will get hot so be sure to wear gloves and keep your
hands clear of the belts and fans.
Step 1 – place car on a incline with front pointed up towards the higher end of incline
Step 2 – Make sure car is in neutral or park and set emergency brake and put wheel chocks
behind rear wheels
Step 3 – unbolt coolant reservoir with 10mm wrench and hang it from the hood with some
string or bungee cords to further elevate it
Step 4 – Jack the front end of the car up as high as you can to ensure that the radiator and
coolant bottle are by far the highest point in the system.
Step 5 – Open the reservoir cap and the while bleeder and start adding coolant to the
coolant bottle. Continue to add until coolant overflows and level stops going down.
Step 6 – Squeeze and release coolant hose on drivers side a number of times – this should
release air bubbles. Continue to squeeze this hose and add coolant for as long as the air
bubbles keep coming.
Step 7 – Massage the 2 heater hoses and see if that frees up any air bubbles – massage
drives side radiator hose after doing heater hoses for a while.
Step 8 – Start car and turn on A/C, turn heat all the way to may hot and the blower on high.
Step 9 – let car run and continue to complete steps 5 – 7 until the air bubbles stop working
their way out, all radiator and heater hoses are hot and the heater blows hot (it may be
necessary to goose the throttle to increase coolant circulation through the heater core)
Step 10 – top off coolant reservoir and replace to normal position and bolt in place. Monitor
coolant level for next couple of days and add coolant as necessary.
The trick to the process is in squeezing / massaging the hoses, it will help move the air
bubbles through the system and get the air out.
Additional info:
The best coolant to use is Toyota Pink SLLC (super Long Life Coolant). The SLLC comes
premixed 50/50 with water and has a service life of 60,000 miles according to Toyota.
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DI12C–11
DI–18
DIAGNOSTICS – ENGINE
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE CHART
SAE CONTROLLED
HINT:
Parameters listed in the chart may not be exactly the same as your reading due to the type
of instrument
or other factors.
If a malfunction code is displayed during the DTC check in check mode, check the circuit for
that code listed
in the table below. For details of each code, turn to the page referred to under the ’’See page
’’ for the respective
’’DTC No.’’ in the DTC chart.
DTC No.
(See Page)
Detection Item Trouble Area
CHK
ENG*1 Memory
P0100/31
(DI–26)
Mass Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
_ Open or short in air flow meter circuit
_ Air flow meter
_ Engine ECU
__
P0101/31*2
(DI–32)
Mass Air Flow Circuit
Range/Performance
Problem
_ Air flow meter _ _
P0110/24
(DI–33)
Intake Air Temp. Circuit
Malfunction
_ Open or short in intake air temp. sensor circuit
_ Intake air temp. sensor (built into air flow meter)
_ Engine ECU
__
P0115/22
(DI–39)
Engine Coolant Temp. Circuit
Malfunction
_ Open or short in water temp. sensor circuit
_Water temp. sensor
_ Engine ECU
__
P0120/41
(DI–46)
Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/
Switch ”A” Circuit Malfunction
_ Open or short in throttle position sensor circuit
_ Throttle position sensor
_ Engine ECU
__
P0121/41*2
(DI–52)
Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/
Switch ”A” Circuit Range/Performance
Problem
_ Throttle position sensor _ _
P0125/91*2
(DI–53)
Insufficient Coolant Temp. for
Closed Loop Fuel Control
_ Air induction system
_ Fuel pressure
_ Injector injection
_ Gas leakage on exhaust system
_ Open or short in heated oxygen sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
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circuit
_ Oxygen sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
__
P0130/21
(DI–53)
Oxygen Sensor Circuit
Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
_ Air induction system
_ EGR system
_ Fuel pressure
_ Injector injection
_ Open or short in heated oxygen sensor circuit
_ Heated oxygen sensor
__
P0133/21*2
(DI–60)
Oxygen Sensor Circuit
Slow Response
(Bank 1 Sensor 1)
_ Air induction system
_ EGR system
_ Fuel pressure
_ Injector injection
_ Open or short in heated oxygen sensor circuit
_ Heated oxygen sensor
_ Engine ECU
__
P0135/21
(DI–63)
Oxygen Sensor Heater
Circuit Malfunction
(Bank 1 Sensor 1)
_ Open or short in heater circuit of oxygen sensor
_ Oxygen sensor heater
_ Engine ECU
__
P0136/27*2
(DI–65)
Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction
(Bank 1 Sensor 2)
_ Open or short in heater circuit of oxygen sensor
_ Oxygen sensor
_*2 _
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