COGNAC, ARMAGNAC and CALVADOS: The Three Great Brandies

COGNAC, ARMAGNAC and CALVADOS:
The Three Great Brandies of France
Tasting Sheet:
1. Remy Martin VS Petite Champagne Cognac
2. Camus VSOP Borderies Single Vineyard Cognac
3. Pierre Ferrand Esprit des Dieux, 1er Cru, Grande Champagne
4. Cles de Ducs Armagnac VSOP
5. Cles de Ducs Vieil Armagnac XO
6. Chateau de Tariquet Armagnac Folle Blanche 8 ans (2002/2013)
7. Chateau de Tariquet Armagnac 1993 (1993/2010)
8. Les Domaines Grassa Armagnac Reserve
9. Chateau de Laubade Armagnac VSOP
10. Chateau de Laubade Armagnac XO
11. Lemorton Vieux Calvados Domfrontais NV AOC
12. Dupont Vielle Reserve Calvados Pays d’Auge AOC
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The Cognacs: Terroir, Maturation and Essence
Remy Martin
V.S. Petite Champagne
One of the “four great houses” of Cognac, Remy Martin is an icon in world trade, with the world’s most
popular and well known V.S.O.P, bearing its distinctive centaur logo on its red and black label.
Remy Martin’s characteristic style of light, airy, floral but rich cognacs, however, may be best introduced
by its V.S., a blend of 100% Petite Champagne from its grower-producers.
The V.S. Petite Champagne is selectively distributed, and formerly bore a “Grand Cru” designation. It is
matured for a minimum of twice the time necessary by law, so is at least four years old at release.
Since Petite Champagne is prized for its floral assertiveness but slightly faster maturation capability, it is
quite possibly better suited to a V.S. maturation grade than a Grande Champagne.
The initial aromas are of sweet redskin apples, but immediately evolve to elegant and light but quite
complex floral notes. Delicious by itself, it can be easily served as a mixed drink with ginger, ginger beer,
orange liqueur, or orange bitters.
Remy-Cointreau USA is the importer for Remy Martin Cognac.
Camus
V.S.O.P. Borderies Single Estate
The House of Camus spans several generations and remains a family-owned company; with its
aggressive expansion it is now called the “Fifth House of Cognac” and vies with Hennessy, Remy
Martin, Courvoisier and Martell in many markets.
Camus is the only major house situated in the Borderies, and possesses the most vineyards in
the area now highly sought after for its particular Cru qualities of soft roundness, rich character
and early maturation, all derived from the unique dominance of heavy clay soils in the Cru.
The Camus Borderies is a perfect exemplar for both Borderies and V.S.O.P., for it precisely
represents the nature of the terroir---soft, rounded, mellow and balanced---and shows the
aging regimen for a V.S.O.P. as well---the lifted airiness of the aromatics leading to the
enhanced richness and depth of the components added by barrel wood and further deepened
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by oxidative aging. This is impressive V.S.O.P., in that it manages to appeal to lovers of the
young and fruity/floral/vanilla face of cognac as well as those who prefer the rounder, deeper,
elements that come from maturity.
Pierre Ferrand
Esprit des Dieux, 1er Cru, Grande Champagne
Pierre Ferrand is located in the heart of Grande Champagne and is owned and
operated by Alexandre Gabriel. Ferrand has established a reputation for both
championing and producing some of the most impressive traditional cognacs
from the Grande Champagne while at the same time creating innovative
approaches with new styles, such as the “Original 1840”, styled on cognacs of the
1800s but created to appeal to bartenders and the cocktail set.
Pierre Ferrand Esprit des Dieux is a remarkably robust and hearty cognac at about
25 years of age. Gabriel describes it as “Brilliant brown with mahogany highlights.
Nose dominated by cedarwood, accompanied by notes of spice (cinnamon,
pepper, nutmeg) and black tea. Pierre Ferrand Esprit des Dieux is distinguished by
powerful masculine notes of leather, licorice and tobacco. A powerful and
assertive cognac
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The Armagnac Producers
Clés des Ducs
Clés des Ducs Armagnac is located in the village of Panjas, and possesses vineyards originally developed
by Paul Baylac in 1774. The owner, the Armanoir Group, engages 200 growers, owns 2,500 hectares of
vineyards, maintains 2 vinification sites, 1 distillery with 4 operating continuous stills, and 4 separate
aging facilities throughout Armagnac.
Cellar Master Phillipe Lezama has presided over the Armagnac and dictated the style for over 35 years.
Clés des Ducs is 100% Ugni Blanc, and all iterations are the same master formula with age differentiation
only. Barrels are lightly toasted and new eau-de-vie is in new barrel for only three to four months
maximum, to avoid too much impression of wood, before being racked to older barrels for long term
aging. The brand prefers Armagnac with fruity notes and the characters of age. Most expressions are
well above the minimum requirements. No sugars, colors or other additives are allowed.
International Beverage Company (Interbevusa.com) is the U.S. importer for Clés des Ducs.
Chateau de Tariquet/Les Domaines Grassa
Chateau de Tariquet has an colorful history. M. Artaud, an itinerant bear trainer who eventually settled
in America, became homesick for Gascony and returned to purchase Chateau de Tariquet in Éauze,
Gers, in 1912. He found himself with a lovely property devastated by phylloxera and barely sustaining
viticulture. In 1939 Pierre Grassa, born in France of Spanish parents, met Helene Artaud in Éauze, fell in
love and married, dedicating themselves to restoring Tariquet to its former glory. In 1982 the Domaines
Grassa began an enormously successful wine operation that is still thriving and expanding around the
world today with the Cotes des Gascogne wines of Domaines du Tariquet, under the direction of Yves,
their son, and now his sons, Armin and Rémy, as well.
Throughout this saga, the family continued to develop their Bas-Armagnacs to great acclaim and today
produce an extensive line consisting of their Classic Series, the “Color Series”, a Carafe/Decanter Series,
and the special Les Degrés Naturels.
Chateau de Tariquet Bas-Armagnac customarily features blends of Ugni Blanc and Baco, special blends
of Ugni Blanc-Baco-Folle Blanche and several Folle Blanche iterations.
Les Domaines Grassa Reserve and Chateau de Tariquet 8 Year Folle Blanche were provided by U.S.
Importer CVI Brands (www.cvibrands.com), located in San Carlos, California.
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Chateau de Tariquet was provided by Robert Kacher of U.S. importer www.RobertKacherSelections.com.
Chateau de Laubade
For 144 years, Chateau de Laubade has been a shining light of the Bas Armagnac. Located in an idyllic
setting in Sorbets d’Armagnac, the stunning chateau and grounds, constructed by M. Noutens in 1870,
have been managed by three generations of the Lesgourgues family since 1924. Vignoble Lesgourgues
also owns four other wineries: Chateau Haut Selve and Chateau Le Bonnat in Graves, Chateau Loumelat
in the Cotes de Blaye, and Chateau Peyros in Madiran.
Chateau de Laubade creates exclusive estate Bas Armagnac from four varieties: Ugni Blanc, Baco 22a,
Columbard, and Folle Blanche. Although most releases are blends of the four varieties, Folle Blanche is
also bottled as a single-variety. Chateau de Laubade is devoted to developing the Baco variety, and uses
it heavily in their blends to attain a rich earthiness that is characteristic of their world-renowned style.
Chateau de Laubade VSOP and XO were provided by Jonathan Cambournac through importer-distributor
Vinum Wine and Spirits Importing and Distributors (www.vinumimporting.com).
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D UPONT C ALVADOS V IEILLE R ESERVE
A.O.C. C A LV A D O S
DU
P A Y S D 'A U G E
Calvados Vieille Reserve is aged 5 years in oak barrels; 25% of new oak.
Terroir:
Varieties:
Harvesting:
Alcohol content:
Clay/Oxfordian marl
80% bittersweet; 20% acid
September to November
42 % vol.
TECHNIQUES USED:
The apples are mixed, crushed and pressed. The juice is fermented right out to give cider to be
distilled. Double distillation is carried out 6 months after the fermentation has taken place. The
first distillation gives the "petite eau" at 30% by volume and it is the second distillation, that of the
"petite eau" which gives the Calvados.
Aging: Five years minimum in toasted 400 L oak barrels, 25% of which are new. Bottled when
ordered.
TASTING NOTES:
Eyes: Gold color. Bright and clear.
Nose: Intense and soft. Notes of fresh oak, vanilla sugar and candied fruits.
Mouth: First sensation is sweet and soft with notes of fresh liquorice. Citrus notes at the end.
Empty glass offers notes of vanilla, citrus, and hay.
SUGGESTIONS
- Storage: very long, bottles upright
- As an Aperitif: on its own, over ice, or with a drop or two of water to let it release its aromas.
- For cooking: to flambé, and for sorbets and granités.
- As a digestive: drinking temperature 20-22°C (68 to 72°F)
L EMORTON C ALVADOS R ESERVE
A.O.C. C A LV A D O S D O M FR O N T A I S
Calvados Reserve
is aged 6 years in oak barrels.
Terroir:
Varieties:
Harvesting:
Alcohol content:
Clay/Limestone
70% pears; 30% apples
October to December
42 % vol.
TECHNIQUES USED:
The apples are mixed, crushed and pressed. The juice is fermented out to give cider to be
distilled. Alembic single distillation is carried out 11 months after the fermentation
Aging: Six years in toasted 400 L oak barrels.
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TASTING NOTES:
Eyes: Gold straw. Bright and clear.
Nose: Light pear, apple, vanilla spice.
Mouth: Bright acidity, pear, apple, flowers, almond, vanilla, baking spices, toffee.
SUGGESTIONS
- Storage: very long, bottles upright
- As an Aperitif: on its own, over ice, or with a drop or two of water to let it release its aromas.
- For cooking: to flambé, and for sorbets and granités.
- During meals, between courses to stimulate appetite: le trou Normand (the Norman hole).
- As a digestive: drinking temperature 20-22°C (68 to 72°F)
Calvados Suggested Reading
An brief explanation of Calvados by Charles Neal:
http://charlesnealselections.com/calvados/
Arguably the best and most authoritative book on Calvados is by…surprise, Charles Neal.
It is available by mail order, here:
http://flamegrapepress.com/calvados/
“Calvados: The World’s Premier Apple Brandy” by Henrik Mattson, is available on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Calvados-Worlds-Premier-Apple-Brandy/dp/916315546X
An excellent article on Calvados from Eric Asimov in the New York Times, The Pour:
http://www.nytimes.com/2011/11/02/dining/calvados-a-taste-of-apples-and-fall-thepour.html?_r=0
A brief interesting article on ‘Learning to Love Calvados’ by bartender Dushan Zaric, including cocktail
recipes, in Liquor.com:
http://liquor.com/articles/learning-to-love-calvados/
“Loving Calvados to the Core by Jason Wilson, The Washington Post:
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/09/22/AR2009092200771.html
On NPR, “Calvados: A (Potent) Norman Tradition by Eleanor Beardsley; an interview with Vincent
Boulard of Calvados Boulard:
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=4964484
Calvados on Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calvados
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