Info - Sidarta

2012
1968
Rolando
Garibotti & Dörte Pietron
/ Edited by Lindsay Griffin
Southeast
Ruta de los
SIDARTA
G u i d es
PATAGONIA VERTICAL
Ridge
Patagonia Vertical
Californianos
Chaltén Massif
Chaltén Massif
Climbing guide
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Patagonia Vertical • Climbing guide
Climbing guide
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38,00 €
isbn 978-961-6027-67-0
Rolando
Garibotti
© 2012 Patagonia, Inc.
Dörte
Pietron
Patagonia ambassador Hayden Kennedy makes the first
fair means ascent of the Cerro Torre headwall. JASON KRUK
Ab
Th
is h
Ce
se
Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard on the first ascent of Ruta de
los Californianos, southwest buttress of Fitz Roy. CHRiS JONeS
Rolando Garibotti & Dörte Pietron
Patagonia_2012_soft_cover.indd 3
About the book
The dramatic Chaltén Massif in southern
Patagonia, Argentina, is home to some of
the most iconic peaks in the world, including Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. The
steep walls of these jagged spires range
from 300 to 1500 m, and from enjoyable
day climbs to unrepeated horror shows.
This climbing guidebook describes every
peak and climb in the area. Although
Chaltén is not the faraway land it once
was, the beauty of the peaks, the quality
of the rock and the ferocity of the storms
remain unchanged, offering climbers the
timeless pursuit of real adventures and
lasting memories.
About the authors
Rolando Garibotti grew up in Bariloche,
Argentina, and first vi­sited the Chaltén
Massif in 1986 when, aged 15, he climbed
Aguja Guillaumet. At the time El Chaltén
had a single, empty house. Since then he
has climbed in the area relentlessly, and
resides there during the summer months.
His finest ascents in the region include the
first complete ascent of the north face of
Fitz Roy in 1996, the first ascent of Cerro
Torre from the north in 2005, and the first
ascent of the Torre Traverse in 2008.
Dörte Pietron first climbed in the area in
2008. In a short time she climbed Fitz Roy
four times, including the second female
team ascent of the peak via the lengthy
Afanassieff route, and the third ascent
of Ensueño. She has climbed Cerro Torre
twice, including the first female ascent
of the Ragni route. She grew up in Heidelberg, Germany, and received a degree
in physics before becoming a mountain
guide. She is head coach of the German
Alpine Club’s female young alpinists team.
Patagonia, Argentina
Fitz roy Group
Francesa
650m, 55° 6a+ A3
Guido Magnone - Lionel Terray
(FR), 2/1952.
Description. Climbs the line of least
resistance on the right side of the
south buttress. With modern gear
a more direct line can be climbed
(see below). This route has not been
climbed in its entirety since the first
ascent. ► PH 71, 238, 244, T 239
History. Magnone and Terray’s was
the first ascent of the peak, completed with help from M. Azéma, L.
Depasse, R. Ferlet, L. Lliboutry and G.
Strouvé (FR), and F. Ibañez (AR). After
fixing 120 meters of rope above La
Silla, Magnone and Terray completed
the ascent in two days round trip.
Although most of the credit for the
first ascent went to the better - known
Terray, it was actually Magnone who
“put the hammer down” to make the
climb happen. On day two, as clouds
rolled in, Terray expressed doubts but
Magnone begged him for a “couple
more hours” and led on, climbing
the last few pitches as fast as he
could. They did not carry bivy gear
and managed to move fast by leaving
pitons behind, saving on the time it
takes to remove them.
Torre Egger
Col de Lux
Jacques Poincenot was also part
Axxxxxxx
of the expedition, but he died earlier
Punta
Herron
while attempting to cross the Río
Fitz Roy.
The original idea for the
19
Standhardt
Col de trip
los came from Ferlet, who had come
Sueñosacross striking images of Cerro Fitz
Roy in Alberto María De Agostini’s
book, Andes Patagónicos.
31
Gear. Doubles to #3, TCUs, stoppers,
7–10 pitons.
The Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs, including the Adela range, Marconi
range and Cerro Pollone group.
1 Bibliography. Alpinisme
99 p. 31 - 32; Alpinisme
100 p. 38 - 50, 72; La
Montagne 1952/358
p. 58 - 66; Paris Match
164, 3/5/1952; Terray L.
(1961) Les conquérants
de l’inutile, Gallimard,
Paris (p. 488 - 506);
Azéma M. A. (1954) La
conquéte du Fitz Roy,
Flammarion, Paris; Depasse L. (1953) Al Asalto
del Fitz Roy, Ediciones
Peuser, Buenos Aires;
CAB - Anuario 1953 p.
5 - 11 (Ibañez); Magnone
G. (2005) Sculpteur de
Cimes, Arthaud, Paris
(p. 95 - 121).
Cerro Fitz Roy SE
face.
250m 50˚ 2
60
13 50m 6c
5+
12 45m 4
5+
60
11 60m 5+
A complete guidebook to the area.
The text includes history, general information, approaches and route descriptions
with recommended gear and descents.
Edited by Lindsay Griffin.
20
10 40m 5
20
9 40m 6a
30
5+
30
8 45m 5+
A1
5
60
7 30m 6b
A3
15
60
6 45m 6b+
35m 90˚ 12
5
5 40m 4
40
Franco-Argentina
1.1
4
4 45m 4
100m 60˚ 11
A3
5
45m 4+ 10
35
3 45m 5+
50m WI5 9
35
60m WI5+ 8
50
2 50m 5
60m WI5+ 7
24
1 45m 6a+
31
238 Cerro Fitz Roy ► SE buttress
30
32
Cerro Fitz Roy ► SE buttress
26
17
239
1
40˚
27
50
60m WI5 6
Francesa
45m WI3 5
10 100m 60˚
60˚ 4
Col
Standhardt
18
• 250 routes, 39 peaks
• 90 topos, 203 photodiagrams and photos
• 368 colour pages
150m 3 55˚ 3
Semisoft binding
150 x 240 mm
ISBN 978-961-6027-67-0
Price: 38 €
9 35m WI3
34
17.2
8 150m 65˚
WI4
40m 5+ 2
6b+
15m WI4 1
C1
150m 65˚
6a
7 50m 80˚
17.1
6 50m WI5
30
26.1
26
Exocet
Scud
5 50m WI4
26.1
29
26
4 50m WI5
3 50m WI5
2 50m WI6
25
17
Tomahawk
1 50m 5 C1
18
28
28
156 Cerro Torre ► West Face
30
Patagonia_AR_2012.indd 156-157
Aguja Standhardt ► East face
157
26
15.11.2012 16:52:31
Orders:
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