Understanding Your Donkey - Alberta Donkey and Mule Club

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE DONKEY AND MULE
THE DONKEY
To most people the donkey is an animal, which has long ears and brays. But, you can also recognize him by his frequently grey
or brown coat, (although he does come in other more “sporty” colors) a light nose & belly, a black cross on his back and
shoulders, a short thin upright mane and a tail which is tufted at the end resembling the tail of the cow more than the horse.
The hooves of the donkey, which he doesn’t like to get wet or muddy, are small and box shaped, and much more elastic than
those of his cousin, the horse.
The donkey probably has more names than any other species in the equine family. His Latin name is Equus Asinus or Ass –
with the male of the species being a Jack (hence the term Jack Ass). His lady friend is a Jennet or Jenny. Donkey was
originally an English name for the Ass taken from “dun-key”. Meaning a small dun or grey colored animal. Those of us in the
Southwest use the Spanish word, Burro, for the ass.
Besides having a lot of names, the donkey comes in about as many different sizes, shapes, breeds, and colors as the horse. Visit
one of the many donkey and mule shows across the country and you will see four basic size groups: Miniature – up to 36” tall
at the withers; standard – 36 to 48” tall; and large standard – 48” to 56”. The mammoth – or Jack Stock is over 56” or 14 hands
tall. Within those sizes you will see many colors, gray, browns, blacks, reds, and even spots. Also you will see many body
types from deerlike and graceful to strong and sturdy, something for every job or personal preference.
As Betsy Hutchin’s states in The Donkey’s & Mule as a Backyard Hobby, “The most enjoyable thing about Donkeys as
members of the equine world is the fact that they are exceptionally loving, almost in the same manner as a dog. They love to
be touched and no amount of playing with, or loving will spoil them for work. They are highly intelligent. For some reasons,
rumors to the contrary have always existed, but all one has to do is once have a horse and then a donkey and any belief in the
stupidity of the ass is banished. They also have a definite sense of humor, sometimes mischief, and a great love of human
company. All in all, whether you ride or drive your donkey, or just love him, he is an unexcelled pet in the large animal
category.”
THE MULE
To produce the hybrid equine called a mule, mate a male donkey (jack) and a female horse (mare). The opposite cross, using a
male horse (Stallion) and a female donkey (jennet) is called a hinny. Even though the mule and hinny hybrids have the same
sexual characteristics and drive as their parents, they are sterile due to an uneven number of chromosomes – 63. The Mule gets
some of its characteristics from the sire, which tends to come out in the extremities. Thus, a mule….has a short thick head (if
the jack has a short thick head), long ears, a short mane, thin legs, narrow hooves, a narrower body than a horse, and no
hindlimb chestnuts, like an ass; in size, shape of neck and croup, speed, strength and type of tail, it is like a horse. A hinny is
smaller and more horse-like than a mule, with shorter ears, a larger head and broader hooves; but has the ass’s calmer
disposition. (Note: while these things are generally true, the truest thing is that animals vary so much from individual to
individual that sweeping generalizations are not to be taken too seriously)
Contrary to popular belief, a mule is neither vicious nor stubborn, but will respond as he is treated. The mule which is well
cared for and not abused makes an excellent riding or working animal.
Mules come in all sizes, from the small miniature to the giant draft mules. The smallest mules come from miniature jacks and
miniature horse mares. The draft mules come from Mammoth jacks and large draft mares. Saddle mules are being bred from
Quarter horse mares, thoroughbreds, and other pleasure riding type mares and standard & large standard sized jacks. Hinnys
come in about the same sizes, but as E.C. Porter states in A Breeder’s Notebook, It is simply the very low conception rate of the
jennet (even to a Jack), which makes the breeding of hinnies much less sure and not at all profitable, compared to the breeding
of mules.”
Mules today are used for packing, pleasure riding, “coon” hunting and jumping, driving, and even racing. Because of their
strength and sure – footedness, mules are being used more and more by cross – country and endurance riders as good,
dependable mounts. As a matter of fact mules today are being used in many areas that were thought of as the exclusive
province of horses such as fox hunting, dressage, combined driving, cow work and all sorts of recreational uses.
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ORIGIN OF MODERN AMERICAN BREEDS OF ASSES
The donkey is one of four members of the equine family, whose most common member is the horse. The following species
make up the equine family:
1. Equus caballus – horse
2. Equus assinus – ass (donkey)
3. Equus zebra
4. Equus hemionus – onager, kiang, kulan, khur
The mule, since it is a hybrid, is not considered a species.
Domestic donkeys descend solely from the wild asses of Africa: the Nubian wild ass, now extinct, or the Somali wild ass.
Donkeys were domesticated long before the horse.
A number of Asiatic wild asses also evolved, all of which look quite different and have different chromosome counts. Three
are endangered in number and none are domesticated. These include the onager, kiang, kulan, and khur. The onager appears
more horse-like, and is the wild ass referred to in the Bible.
The breeds of donkeys in North America are now so mixed that they are classified only as to size. Various countries of origin
have been identified, however.
Miniature donkeys were bred from animals imported from Sicily, Sardinia, other Mediterranean locations, and Ethiopia.
Standard donkeys arrived with Columbus (six animals) but mostly with the Spanish Conquistadores.
Mammoth donkeys were also imported from Spain, particularly Catalonia and Andalusia, as well as from Malta and Majorca.
Another interesting import, although in small numbers, was the rare French Poitou, a large, coarse donkey with extremely long,
wavy hair, used mostly for mule breeding but also introduced into Mammoth donkey bloodlines.
Miniature and Mammoth donkeys with proven bloodlines from specific foundation stock can be registered with the Canadian
Donkey and Mule Association and the American Donkey and Mule Society.
DONKEY TERMS
Ass: The correct term for the animal commonly known as the donkey, burro or jack stock. The term comes from the original
Latin term for the animal which was Asinus. The scientific term for the term is equus asinus. Thus ass is the correct term. The
term fell into disrepute through confusion with the indelicate term “arse” meaning the human backside. You are never at fault
when you refer to one of these animals as an ass, and the term is not improper unless you misuse it so yourself. The difference
between asses and horses is a species difference. You might compare it to the difference between zebras and horses, different
species but closely related and able to interbreed.
Jack: The term used for the male of the ass species. Thus, often used term jackass – which is correct if redundant.
Jennet: The term for the female of the ass species. The more usually used term is Jenny, which is considered correct in nontechnical use.
Burro: A word taken directly from Spain. It means the common, everyday working donkey found in Spain and Mexico. It
came into usage in the Western United States. As a general rule, the term burro is heard West of the Mississippi and the term
Donkey east of the Mississippi where English language is more common.
Wild Burro: These are the feral (originally domestic) asses, which run wild in the Western part of the United States. The
American Donkey and Mule Society prefer to keep the term burro for these animals. When registered they are registered as
“Standard Donkeys” and the origin and breeding is given as wild burro.
Donkey: A word taken from England. The derivation is uncertain but most authorities think that the name comes from dun
(the usual color) and the suffix “ky” meaning small. Thus “a little dun animal”. In earlier England the word ass as taken from
the Romans, was the word used for this animal. The donkey variation is a relatively recent variant.
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Jack Stock: The term for plural of the American Mammoth Jack
and Jennet. These animals are never called donkeys or burros,
but the term is perfectly correct for them, as they are simply a
breed of the species.
WHAT IS A DONKEY?
The donkey is one of four members of the equine family whose
most common member is the horse. Zebras and Asiatic wild
asses are the other two species.
His proper name “Ass” comes from Latin. The name Donkey
comes from an old English word meaning animal in the dun-key
or colour.
Sometimes he is also called Burro, which is the Spanish word for
ass. Today the word burro usually refers to the feral donkeys that
roam wild in various parts the North and South America,
A male donkey (Stallion) is called a jack. Castrated male donkeys are donkey geldings.
The female donkey (mare) is called a jennet (sometimes written as jenny, but both are pronounced the same).
Young donkeys are called jack foals or jennet foals.
Jennet or gelding donkeys are by far the best animals for these activities or for a family pet. Jacks are not suitable for pets.
Donkeys have many uses – riding, driving, companions, pack animals, guard animals, acreage pets, first animals for
children and as Jacks to produce mules.
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN DONKEYS AND HORSES
EARS –The long ears of the donkey, which are well supplied with blood vessels, are a desert adaptation for cooling the body.
EYES – The larger eyes of the donkey gives him a wider field of vision than the horse.
TAIL - The unusual tail with the tuft on the end is like that of a cow.
SPINAL COLUMN – The donkey, like the Arab horse, lacks the fifth lumbar vertebra in the spinal column.
HOOF – The donkey hoof is an upright, smaller, tougher and more elastic structure than the horse foot. Donkeys rarely need
shoes.
COAT – The donkey is a desert animal. Even though his coat is longer and coarser than that of the horse, he does not have the
protective undercoat of the horse. The donkey can catch cold more quickly and needs protection in our cold climate.
VOICE – The distinctive bray.
LONGEVITY – The donkey life span is 30 to 50 years, generally greater than that of the horse. Miniature and Mammoth
donkeys do no live as long as standard donkeys.
Castrating Mules and Jacks by Heather Smith Thomas
Unless a male donkey is destined for breeding, he should be castrated, preferably while he is still young and has not
yet developed typical male behavior. All male mules should be castrated, since they definitely won’t be used for breeding.
Even though male mules are infertile, they will still try to breed females and can be a dangerous nuisance if they are not
gelded.
Gelding a mule or a jack is not as simple as gelding a young male horse. Extra care is needed when castrating
donkeys or mules. It is wise to castrate them before 6 months of age, if both testicles are descended. This is recommended for
two reasons—to prevent aggressive male behavior, and to get it done before the testicles and blood vessels become large, to
avoid excessive bleeding.
The late Dr. Tex Taylor (veterinarian at Texas A&M who was a well-known authority on donkeys and mules) wrote a
handout for veterinarians some years ago, entitled Elementary Assology, to help educate practitioners who were treating mules
and donkeys in their veterinary practices. The booklet discussed differences among horses, donkeys and mules, their behavior,
foaling (donkey and mule foals), using jacks as breeding animals, health issues commonly seen in donkeys/mules, and
castration of mules and donkeys.
Nearly all male mules are castrated at some point in their lives, and an increasing number of jacks are castrated unless
they will be used for breeding. Taylor mentioned that donkeys, and some mules, have more tendency to bleed excessively after
castration than do horses, due to several factors. According to Taylor, donkeys and mules don’t respond as well to most of the
short-term anesthetics commonly used, and may not relax as much. They may also “wake up” quicker. This may contribute to
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a more hurried procedure by the person doing the surgery, and also increased blood pressure in the animal (if he is not as
relaxed or begins to try to get up too soon).
Another factor is that donkeys and some mules have larger testicles than horses of the same age, with larger blood
vessels supplying the testicles and more tissue to deal with during the surgery—and more chance for bleeding. Many donkeys
also have thicker scrotal skin and larger blood vessels at the surface, but this is not as common in mules.
As male donkeys and mules mature, the scrotal area gets more fat deposits than in a horse. If the veterinarian cuts off
the bottom of the scrotum during castration (a technique used by some vets) the chances for scrotal bleeding are increased.
Most veterinarians now advocate ligating (tying off) the spermatic cord as well as using an emasculator (which crushes as well
as cuts it), in donkeys--and also in mules, when in doubt regarding the risk for bleeding.
Taylor preferred to ligate the entire cord (as high as possible) and to use the emasculator tool below the ligature. By
including the surrounding membrane in the ligature (tying off the whole structure), Taylor felt that the chances of bleeding and
the risk for evisceration (intestines coming down through the opening) are reduced. He felt that evisceration is always a worry
when castrating mature jacks because of the very large size of the spermatic cord.
Even though thousands of male donkeys and mules have been successfully gelded without taking this precaution, the
chance of complication (with possible fatality) makes it worth doing. Taylor tried gelding several of his own animals without
ligation to see if bleeding was a problem, and it was. Ligation (tying off the cord as high as possible) can often be difficult in
the standing animal, and Taylor always preferred to not geld mules standing.
There has always been some debate regarding the best age to geld male foals (whether horse, donkey or mule). An
increasing number of owners geld them early in life because then they don’t have to deal with the development of aggressive
male behavior. Some mule owners also feel that early-castrated mules will have more refinement, as well as growing taller
than the males castrated after puberty.
The main drawback to castrating foals in the 2 to 3 weeks of life is a slightly higher risk for evisceration, due to either
scrotal hernia or an enlarged inguinal ring (the structure surrounding the canal that allows the testicles of the male fetus to
descend into the scrotum at about 9 to 10 months of gestation. If the testicles of the mule baby are in the scrotum at birth (as
they should be), the boundaries of this inguinal canal are larger and less defined than at any other time of their life. But the
veterinarian doing the castration can easily palpate and check for a hernia and close it with a stitch.
In a few instances, however, when castration is done very young, even tying off the cord or closing the inguinal ring
with stitches may not prevent evisceration--just because the strength of these tissues at that young age may not be adequate to
hold the stitches. According to Taylor, tissue strength increases greatly during the first 30 to 45 days of life. During this same
time period, the internal inguinal ring contracts from as large as 3 to 4 inches down to about one inch or less. This is why the
ideal time to geld a mule foal may be at some point after 2 to 3 months of age but before weaning--while the foal is still on the
dam (for emotional security and self-exercise following mama around the pasture).
Taylor recommends that any foal (especially mule or donkey foals) castrated any earlier than 2 to 3 months should
have the external inguinal ring sutured, or at least a tying off of the spermatic cord. Routine castration techniques are probably
effective after that age.
ADVICE FROM A DONKEY BREEDER -“Stallion tendencies will develop in any ungelded mule or jack and can be very
hard to deal with—much worse than any stallion,” says Sybil Sewell (a long-time breeder of donkeys and co-founder of the
Canadian Donkey and Mule Association and the Alberta Donkey and Mule Club). Sewell lives near Leslieville, Alberta and
has bred donkeys for more than 40 years.
“Some vets prefer to geld when donkey or mule foals are just a few days or weeks old, and for our own donkeys, if at
all possible, we like to geld them at about 4 to 5 months of age, while they are still on their mothers. It’s so much easier on
them. If you know right away that a certain one will be a gelding rather than a breeding jack, it is important to get it done as
soon as possible,” she says.
“Aside from the behavioral issues, there’s less risk of extensive bleeding when they are young. Complete ligation of
the spermatic artery in donkeys is very important. They can bleed to death if these arteries are not ligated, and I won’t use a vet
who doesn’t put a stitch in and make sure those arteries are closed—as well as using the emasculator to crush the arteries and
spermatic cord. The American Donkey and Mule Society encourages owners to get this done properly, to avoid problems.”
She tells of a jack that was more than 12 months old when they gelded him last year, and this is much later than they
normally would do this surgery. “He was supposed to be going to someone in Colorado as a jack, but the sale did not go
through. So we decided to geld him because then his life would be a lot better and we’d be able to find him a better home. The
vet who gelded him said his testicles were as large as those of many adult horses. The testicles of adult jacks are huge. So it
pays to geld them young because it is much harder on them when they are older,” says Sewell.
“We did geld one that was part of a breeding program we were disbanding, and he was 9 years old. I knew that if I
sold him as a jack he could be difficult to handle, so we gelded him. He was still being obnoxious several weeks afterward and
the vet who gelded him asked if we had a gelding that was bigger—and if so, put the two together. We did, and I expected a
big battle, but they got along fine. The former jack realized the other one was bigger and didn’t challenge him, and he was also
lonely and very desperate for company. He was very cranky by himself, even though I walked him and he was out in a
paddock for exercise every day. When we put those two together he was fine. He had lived by himself until then, because he
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was a breeding jack. Normally our jacks are kept in separate pens in winter, with weanlings next door for company. In
breeding season they have the jennets for company,” she says.
AN INTRODUCTION TO DONKEYS AS PETS
By Besty Hutchins
www.lovelongears.com
Although most equines, that is horses and ponies, are kept for their useful qualities
and as pets only secondarily, the particular temperaments of the donkey makes him
ideal for both a companion animal and for practical use for both adults and children.
The physical attributes of the donkey make him one of the best equines for people to
keep under close circumstances. Donkeys have no body odor, even when sweating.
They carefully deposit their manure in only one or two places, creating mounds,
which are easy to clean away. They stay happily in a large back yard and do not
contaminate the whole yard with droppings. (They DO eat roses however). They
are usually small, and are docile to handle. They eat very little to stay fat, and
require almost nothing in the way of equipment such as brushes and other grooming
equipment and saddlery. The pet donkey is perfectly content with a halter, a rope, a
currycomb to clean mud off with, a bridle and a bareback pad. If the animal is only to be petted or just led around with
children aboard, a halter lead rope, and brush are all he will require as equipment. A hoof pick of some kind should be added to
this list, to keep his feet clean.
The mentality of the donkey is what endears him to most people. A well-treated and properly raised donkey is extremely
loving and loveable. We have always found that they are greatly different from horses and ponies in this respect. Most of them
are content to rest their heads in their owner’s arms, laps or shoulders for hours while being petted. If a donkey has not been
made fearful for its ears by harsh treatment, a favorite treat is to scratch the inside of the big ears and watch the expression of
pure pleasure on the donkey’s face. Donkeys’ faces do have expression, if you have ever seen one laughing at you with his lip
upraised you will know that! When the owner is working in the donkey’s enclosure, he will find that inquisitive head stuck
right between him and his work, or looking over (and probably leaning on) his shoulder. Most pet donkeys don’t even think of
flinching from such things as hammer blows, and can be quite a nuisance trying to get their nose under the hammer to examine
the nail! One man of our acquaintance found the donkey’s habit of lying down and stretching out in the sun so charming that
he bought one. He had always felt sorry for horses he said. They didn’t lie down very much and it made his feet hurt just to
think of them standing all night! As you can see, this man did not pretend to be a horseman, and had no experience handling
them, but he and his pet donkey became very close, and the donkey furthered his equine education. He still thinks donkeys are
more sensible because they lie down and rest their feet!
The donkey shows his difference from the horse and pony in many other ways than conformation and long ears and voice.
People acquainted with horses find endless fascination in watching the little differences between the species. For instance, you
must never water a hot horse or he will drink too much and founder. Did you know that the Desert Research Institute in
Nevada proved that the donkey does not drink too much because of its desert heritage? Donkeys and camels both have an
internal mechanism, which regulates water intake! Neither animal will drink more than exactly the amount his body tissue
lack. When he has drunk ONLY the amount of water he needs, the donkey will quit!
Donkeys often prefer human companionship to that of other animals. Geldings and Jennies especially can live quite happily
with plenty of human attention without yearning for their own kind. As a matter of fact, a real pet will often sulk and be
“jealous” of a new donkey added to their “kingdom” until they get used to it. Even after that the two will compete with each
other for petting and human attention. Perhaps this quality of difference from other equine, and the fact that donkeys are
interested in, and loving toward humans, as well as being willing to show their affection physically is the most endearing
quality about the pet donkey.
The gestation period of the donkey is 12 months, instead of the 11 for a horse. They say that God gave the donkey an extra
month to put on all his intelligence! The burro, ass and donkey are all different words for the same animal. Burro is simply the
Spanish word for a small ass; donkey is the English word. Donkey is derived from dun-key, in middle English, which means a
small, dun colored animal. Ass is the proper name for all breeds and typed of donkeys. The scientific name is equus asinus,
whence the proper name, ass. If you live in our Western states, under the Spanish influence you will probably call your pet a
burro, if you live in the East, he will be a donkey to you. In both places it will be a constant irritation to you to find that people
insist on calling him a mule. By the way, a mule is a hybrid, the cross of a male donkey with a female horse. The hinny is the
result of a cross between a male horse and a female donkey, and is basically just the same as a mule. These animals combine
the size and spirit of the horse, with the stamina, ears, and intelligence of the donkey, and are excellent animals for the more
experienced horseman.
There is some confusion over the “breeds” and types of ass in the United States. The most common and lest expensive donkey
found is our “Native American ass”. This animal whom the Spanish called a burro, was introduced first by Spanish explorers,
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and many have come in later times from Mexico. It can be of many
colors, including spotted (pinto) and is of many varying strains of
bloodlines and types of conformation. The height variations are
extreme, varying from about 39 inches to 58 inches at the withers. It is
the most varied of our donkeys and can be chosen for any occupation
from a first ride for a small child, to driving in a show ring, to carrying
a heavy pack in the mountains. Wild burros can even be adopted free
from the Bureau of Land Management, and when tamed, make
excellent pets. Temperament does not vary with breed to any great
extent in the ass, although the very largest breeds have a tendency to
be sluggish due to their larger size. A well-treated animal is usually a
fine pet, no matter what breed or type it is. This quality makes it easy
to select the animal you wish, from any of the types and sizes
available.
The two breeds of donkey in the United States that are “purebred” are the Sicilian and Sardinian Miniature donkey, and the
American Standard “Mammoth” jackstock. The miniatures were originally imported from Sicily and Sardinia. They are from
30 to 36 inches tall at the withers, and of stocky strong conformation and good disposition. They are usually grey or dark
brown.
These small donkeys are good for pets, for small children to ride, for driving and for show. Geldings are less expensive than
breeding stock, and make better pets.
The “Mammoth” jack and jennet are very large indeed, and rarely kept as pets. They stand from 56” at the lower limits of the
breed, to 16 hands high, as large as a large horse. They have heavy bone and are used to breed large mules. They are
expensive and rather rare and are extremely impressive animals! They can be ridden or driven and have the same temperament
as the smaller animals, but may be more sluggish if they are very large.
The America Donkey and Mule Society has full literature and a list of available books on these animals. A breeders listing is
also available from this office. If the breeders listing shows no breeders near you, an ad in the local paper, or in your local or
state horse publications will almost certainly turn up some donkeys. Try to be particular with what you buy, and look for good
temperament and good health and an appearance that is pleasing to you as an individual.
No matter what size your long-eared pet is, his physical care is quite simple and basic. In cold or changeable weather a good
shelter is necessary. Donkeys are desert animals and need shelter to protect them from cold winds and from cold rain and
snow. Jennets in foal and foals are susceptible to respiratory disease. All donkeys are rather susceptible to pneumonia, so that
if your pet ever appears to have a cold, call the vet immediately.
This is not common- but can happen in really bad weather. Donkeys grow extremely thick, long and dense hair in the winter
months and keep it well into fly season, thus protecting themselves against colds and flies with one coat. If your animal is out
in the winter do not brush his coat clean- the donkey loves to roll in dust and mud. You can brush the outer mud off, but leave
what is in the coat-it provides natures insulation.
You will notice that a donkey never shakes anything but his head when he gets up from rolling, unlike a horse, which shakes all
over. This is another symptom of his desert heritage. Like the nomad who washes his hand in desert sand to conserve water,
the donkey washes in dust. It also stays in that thick coat to protect him from the sun, wind, or cold. In summer, when all cold
is gone, donkeys that can be sprayed for flies may be clipped completely over the body with horse clippers. In more moderate
climates a shelter with one closed side, towards the prevailing winter wind is quite useful.
The best food for a donkey that is not working hard is grass. If grass is sparse or unavailable, then good quality hay should be
provided. We find that a medium sized donkey eats about 2 bales of good hay a week during the winter (Texas). This is
sometimes supplemented with a mixed type horse feed if the donkey falls off in condition. A supplementary feed is also
needed for jennies in foal or nursing foals and for the weaned foals also. Common sense and observation should tell the owner
if his donkey is losing weight. If the coat is long it should be carefully felt to see that the ribs are not showing under a blanket
of “fat looking” hair.
It is a common tendency of donkeys to become over fat just as with ponies and this should be guarded against. Also they
become “hot” with too much grain, especially oats, and can be quite sassy if overfed with these rich foods. Of course if the
animal is being ridden or driven every day it must have a proper amount of grain with its hay to keep it in good condition.
Donkeys are very particular about their water and should have fresh water every day. They will go without water even in
summer weather, if it is stale, and will immediately drink their fill when the water is changed. Donkeys will create their own
“rolling place” as soon as they are put in an enclosure to live. If the rolling place has little sand, a load of clean sand will be
appreciated greatly by the donkey.
Donkeys take easily to picket rope and stake also. If you do not have fresh grass you can stake with about 30 feet of soft rope.
Keep an eye on the animal, donkeys are good with rope, but accidents can happen. Do not leave for more than a few hours at a
time on the stake rope. Just long enough to get a tummy full of fresh grass. NEVER LEAVE A DONKEY OR PONY
STAKED PERMANENTLY, THIS IS CRUEL.
The other thing about physical care which must be emphasized is proper worming and care of the feet. Donkeys should be
wormed with any good commercial preparation in spring and fall. If the local horsemen consider any immunizations especially
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necessary your vet can give them to your donkey also. A farrier should keep the animal’s feet trimmed, as they will grow so
long as to cripple the animal otherwise. Even if a donkey is purchased with long hoofs a good farrier, by a series of trimmings
can usually bring the feet back to good order. A trimming once every two or three months is usually enough, but neglect of the
feet is the most common and serious error that donkey owners can make. A farrier can almost always be found through a local
vet, stable, or horse breeder. Donkeys are almost never shod, but then can be if necessary with cut down pony shoes.
Buying a young, untrained animal is the best way to get a pet that is your own creation. You shouldn’t find training to be any
problem. Once you have the confidence and love of the animal. A firm “NO” and a jerk on the halter will usually be enough to
keep your pet on the straight and narrow. Contrary to popular myth, donkeys are not stubborn. What is often perceived, as
stubbornness is either fear or lack of training. Space does not permit detailed descriptions of graining but there are a good
many books on the subject that are readily available.
DENTAL CARE FOR DONKEYS [and mules]
By Marlene Quiring
Donkeys or mules experiencing pain or discomfort can exhibit various kinds of negative behavior. Ill-fitting equipment can
cause “bad behavior” and along with many other reasons, so can dental problems. It is much too often assumed by the handler
of the animal that negative behavior has no cause and needs to be dealt with by disciplining the poor beast.
.
I am often amazed at our lack of understanding that animals, like us, usually have a very good reason for their actions.
All domestic donkeys need routine dental care, as they are not living on the abrasive diet of their feral counterparts.
Unlike human teeth, equine teeth are constantly pushing up through the jaw, and should wear with grazing at the same rate. For
this reason holes or decay are not a problem as they just wear with the tooth and eventually disappear. However, various other
dental and mouth problems do occur, and should be treated. Problems can occur at every age so the donkey’s teeth should be
checked at least yearly and preferably more often.
General Signs of Dental Problems:
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Sudden condition loss or variable condition.
Eating problems. The donkey will drop food or be unable to chew properly resulting in bolus formation.
Undigested food in the dung.
Digestive problems such as souring or colic.
Foul breath.
Biting problems due to the bit or noseband pressing on sharp molars, causing head tossing.
Drooling or excessive foaming at the mouth.
Also beware if you discover any kind of discharge coming from your longear’s nostrils, particularly if it’s only on one side. If
this persists or reoccurs, it could be a sign of dental problems. An abscessed or broken tooth can cause an infection which often
spreads to the sinus cavity. This can be a serious problem which may require surgery to treat the primary cause and current
infection. As donkeys and mules can be very stoic about showing pain, realizing that they are in distress can be an added
difficulty.
The incisors (front nipper teeth) do not as a rule cause any problems. However, the molars, which are the grinding teeth, do.
They tend to wear unevenly depending on the donkey’s chewing action and very sharp edges can form which cut the cheeks
and the tongue. The dentist (or vet) will rasp the sharp edges (called floating). This is painless to the donkey and most don’t
object at all.
Teeth shedding – the deciduous teeth (caps) can cause problems by not dropping out but remain sitting on top of the permanent
teeth. This can result in an uneven chewing surface and food caught in the teeth can cause inflammation from the cap root
spiking the jaw. The cap will need to be pulled out.
Missing Tooth – When there is no grinding surface for the opposite tooth, it will grow down into the hole. This is very painful
(also unusual).
7
Wolf Teeth – The wolf teeth (first premolars) are now missing in some equines. Do not confuse them with canine or bridle
teeth that males get, but females usually don’t. They usually appear in the upper jaw, just in front of the molars. They can be
quite small but sharp, and can be very irritated by the presence of a bit, ANY BIT! The only way to handle them is to have
them removed by an equine dentist or a veterinarian. You can check for them yourself by looking into their mouth or by
inserting your “least favorite finger” in the interdental space between the molars and incisors and feeling for the presence of
this offending and useless tooth.
Bolus - ball of unchewed food (usually due to caps) that sits in the cheeks and causes inflammation and must be removed.
Mouth Abcesses - are often due to seeds (especially barley awns) lodged in the mouth and tongue. The seeds will have to be
pulled out, and the inside of the mouth hosed out. Uneven surfaces of the molars contribute to this problem.
Old Age – Old donkeys need extra tooth care, as they are more prone to tooth loss due to infection than younger donkeys.
Uneven wearing of the molars can occur due to deafness and blindness because both conditions can cause the donkey to chew
unevenly. In extreme old age the teeth can wear down until they wear out. In such a case, soft feed and vitamins will have to
be poured into the donkey. Donkeys’ teeth do seem to wear better and last longer than horses’ teeth, probably the reason why
donkeys are more long lived.
Differences between horses and DONKEYS
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[taken from the Internet]
The angle of the larynx at the back of the throat (top of the trachea) of the donkey is different than in horses, and
donkeys have a pharyngeal diverticulum (pocket) in their throat, excess tissue in their pharynx, and elongated
laryngeal saccules (part of the airway that aids in vocalization).
Nasal intubation also is more challenging because donkeys have narrower nasal passages than horses
Donkeys tend to grow longer, coarser coats that lack the protective undercoat that horses have in the winter. The coat
does not provide the protection needed during periods of weather extremes (colder and wet weather).
An obscured jugular furrow (the place where blood samples are taken or tranquilizers are given). The cutaneous coli
muscle is much thicker than in the horse and hides the middle third of the jugular vein. It is easier to find the upper
third of the jugular.
The nasolacrimal duct of the donkey is located on the flare of the nostril rather than the floor of the nostril as it is in
the horse.
Some medication can produce complications such as breathing in donkeys
Higher doses (typically 1.5 times the horse dose) of a number of drugs are needed in donkeys. An exception is
guaifenesin (a centrally acting muscle relaxant). Horse doses of this drug in donkeys can cause respiratory arrest.
Lungworms are reported to be more common in donkeys than horses
TRIMMING DONKEYS
WHAT IS THE CORRECT ANGLE TO TRIM FOR IN MULES AND DONKEYS?
Let’s make this clear: There is not a set angle to trim for in donkeys, mules or even
horses. The farriers all say that angles such as 53 degrees were given in the past, but
modern farrier science has said that this is something that should be dropped. The only
correct angle is one that best lines up the hoof and pastern of the particular animal you
are working on. Amateurs and poor farriers may make mistakes – even bad ones. This
takes a lot of experience and education. If you wish to do your own trimming and are not
sure, get a lesson from a good, experienced farrier. The basic difference between our
animals and horses is that the heels are left longer on our animals, but that is because our
animals often but not always have more upright bone and fetlock structure.
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“PEARLS OF WISDOM”
SEMINAR
By Marlene Quiring
Dr. Suzy Burnham of Graham TX traveled to Olds, Alberta Canada several years ago to provide a seminar, Pearls of Wisdom.
The Friday sessions were specifically geared to veterinarians and farriers. The following is some of the things I gleaned from
the Saturday and Sunday sessions.
Dr. Suzy is such an energetic, informative, engaging and enthusiastic speaker, and makes one feel like she is your friend and
partner in this love of longears.
Dr. Suzy spent a lot of time demonstrating on how to scratch and massage your animal, from head to toe and all places in
between. She advised using gloves so as to get deeply into the skin and give a really thorough rubbing. Donkeys love to roll,
so can pack a lot of dirt onto their hide! She even cleaned out those magnificent ears with gauze and rubbing alcohol. Donkeys
love to have their ears scratched and you can get your fingers into them as deep as possible without worrying about harming
them.
A wild donkey, unlike a horse, is best tamed from the rear end to the front! Start by rubbing around the tail head and make
friends with his back end first! Scratch deep! (Mules can be handled the same way).
Donkeys are tough! Tests have been done on donkeys that have gone without water for 48 hours and they can rehydrate in 15
minutes. Donkeys can look well, have good blood test and yet be in severe distress. Donkeys that colic will not show the same
rolling and distress signs a horse will, they tolerate pain so well that sometimes their signs of illness are so mild they are
beyond hope by the time it is realized they are sick.
When donkeys are truly afraid they will stand absolutely still and face the danger, mules will too. The donkey’s instinct is to
stop, not run.
Test done on miniature donkeys at 54 months showed the knees were not closed yet, they mature very slowly as compared to
horses. So back off on riding your donkey or mule until they are about 4 years old. They can do some driving before this, but
remember they are slower maturing and don’t push your animals until they are physically and mentally able to handle it.
Mammoth donkeys can grow 2-3 more inches from 5 – 7 years old. Mammoth and miniatures don’t live as long as standard
donkeys, which can live to 40+ years.
Donkey’s feet need to be kept dry!! This comes from their desert ancestry. When they lose the protective covering because of
moisture, their hoof wall will crumble and look bad. If necessary a donkey can walk on its sole, which would cause a horse
extreme pain. A donkey’s foot is upright, 5 to 7 degrees steeper than a horse. Make sure your farrier is aware of this… they
need to have short toes.
Donkeys in general are overfed! They do not need oats or alfalfa; in fact it can do them great harm if their diet is too rich.
They are not able to tolerate rich feed. Only if they are being worked hard should they maybe be fed a richer feed. A donkey’s
digestive system is a lot more efficient than horse’s and can squeeze much more nutrients out of what it eats. If you have been
overfeeding your donkeys wean it off slowly and if you come across a starving donkey, like wise build it up slowly. Donkeys
will store excess fat on their back or neck and it will not go away because the fat infiltrates with scar tissue and cannot be
starved out. Donkeys can also founder from too much, or too rich feed. Feed by need. Make sure they have minerals, salt,
(loose is best) and fresh water. Donkeys do not like dirty water!!
Donkeys also need their teeth floated. Like a horse, the donkey jaw, although heavier and wider
than a horse, has a narrower top jaw than the bottom, so also gets sharp points on the molars that
need to be attended to. You will not see grain spillage from a donkey like you will from a horse
that needs dental attention! Your donkey may need floating when only a few years old and
certainly if he has not had his teeth floated by age 6 or 7, the job is badly overdue!
Worming is, of course, necessary and should be done every two months if your animals are in close
confinement. In Texas, animals are building up immunity to Ivermectin, so Dr. Suzy recommends
you rotate wormers yearly. Ivermectin still does get bots and lungworm, but they are finding it
isn’t controlling pinworms, roundworms, etc. Donkeys can also carry tapeworms.
There have been donkeys that have tested positive for Coggins and when tested six months later
are negative. Dr. Suzy recommends that if you have a donkey that test positive, wait and retest before condemning them. This
has something to do with their blood cells testing different than a horse.
One of the most difficult things to teach a donkey is to teach them to lead up beside you. Indeed it can be much easier to ride
them! Teaching them to lead may take two people, one at the head and one behind. Keep tension on the lead rope until they
take a step ahead, reward immediately by releasing, build on one step at a time. The person behind can aggravate them with a
broom on their heels, use noise or a constant tapping. DO NOT BEAT on them. If you hit them, they will realize you can’t
9
hurt them much and will stand still and bear their torment. Do not punish them for being cautious. This is what keeps them
alive in the desert. They are being smart… not stubborn!! They can be trained to lead well, but you must be patient with them.
Castration in donkeys or mules is different in that they have extra blood vessels, and Dr. Suzy says to just crimp and cut is not
adequate. She always does a figure eight suture and makes sure it holds. Mules should be castrated between six to nine
months; otherwise they can become difficult to handle. Dr. Suzy advocated, “Anesthesia with amnesia,” in other wards, always
lay a donkey to mule out for castration, as mules especially are very unforgiving of any pain. Mules have been said to be
susceptible to Tetanus, however this has mainly been because so many were castrated with a dull, dirty knife in dirty corrals
without vaccinations or penicillin, and contracted Tetanus and died, or bled to death. Make sure you keep animals up to date
on vaccinations applicable to your area. Tetanus is always a must!
Donkeys have 62 chromosomes and horses have 64 and the mules’ ends up with 63.Whether you’re breeding a donkey or a
mare, don’t breed the animal until it is at least a three-year-old. If you breed as a two year old you are depriving that animal of
its own physical growth!
WHAT CAN A DONKEY DO?
Donkeys fall into several size groups, which we refer to as breeds or types. Miniatures up to 36" in height at the withers:
Standard up to 48" in height: Large Standard 48" up to 54" for jennets or 56" for jacks: and Mammoth 54" and up for jennets
and 56" and up for jacks. If these animals are spotted, they may be registered by The American Council of Spotted Asses. Any
donkey may be registered by the American Donkey and Mule Society if it passes inspection. The term's donkey, burrow, ass,
and jack stock are properly used for these animals. The males are jacks; the females are jennets (or jennies).
Many people like to own these fine animals for their wonderful personalities and their fine pet qualities. There is probably no
more adorable baby in the animal world than the little donkey with its
long ears and long legs and sweet face and fuzzy coat. However, there
are many uses for donkeys. Here are some of them for your
information.
1.
SHEEP PROTECTION - A single donkey, usually a jennet,
sometimes a gelding (jacks rarely work because they can be too
aggressive with lambs) is introduced to the herd and undergoes a
bonding stage. After it has bonded with the sheep, it will protect
them against canine predators (fox, coyote, and dogs) as it would
one of its own. This is extremely beneficial in areas where the
sheep have many acres to graze. The advantage of the donkey over
the guard dog is that they can eat the same food as the sheep so they
don't have to be fed separately. The donkey will also bed down with the sheep at night. Given a strange sound it will
voice a warning to the flock, which alerts them to danger. Then the donkey will chase and often trample the predator.
Miniature donkeys are not usually large enough to handle the coyotes and mammoth donkeys are usually too slow.
2.
HALTER BREAKING - The standard size donkey is also very adept at halter breaking young calves (polled or dehorned)
and yearling horses. The donkey wears a collar that is connected to the halter of the animal that is being taught to lead.
The animals are then turned loose in an enclosure, always under supervision. Where the donkey wants to go, it will go.
The colt or calf has no option but to follow. By allowing the donkey to perform the unpleasant task of lead training, the
"trainee" doesn't associate people with this particular stressful situation. In fact, when you release the colt or calf from the
donkey, they are usually very willing to follow you. Articles are available on this particular form of halter training from
the American Donkey and Mule Society. While the standard size donkey is ideally suited to sheep protection and halter
breaking, all donkeys share in the following:
3.
FOAL COMPANIONSHIP - The donkey is a wonderful companion to foals at weaning time. The donkey is allowed to
run with the mare and foal prior to weaning, then kept with the foal when weaning takes place. The foal has a calm,
steadying influence from the donkey and looks to it for support. This calmness is transferred to the foal and the trauma of
separation from the dam is reduced. As most donkeys readily come up to people, this behavior is duplicated by the foal.
Not only have you reduced foal stress, but you have instilled in the foal a friendly attitude toward people.
4.
STABLE COMPANION - This is very similar to the foal companion, only in this case
the donkey takes on the responsibility of another animal's well being. Nervous horses
have been known to calm down with a donkey companion as a stall or pasture mate. With
horses recovering from surgery or injury or with nervous horses such as race or show
horses, the donkey seems to have a calming effect. Almost as if the donkey is saying "It's
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o.k., we'll get through this together". The miniature is often used for this purpose since it does not take up much room in
the stall of a racehorse or injured horse.
5.
HANDICAPPED RIDING PROGRAMS - The donkey has shown time and time again how wonderful it is with children
and handicapped people. In many areas, especially England, the donkey is used extensively in riding and animal
companion programs for the physically and mentally handicapped. Their small stature, slow and thoughtful nature and
affectionate disposition make them ideal for this purpose when properly selected and trained. Both the person and the
donkey know they are special together and the bond that develops between the two is quite explainable.
6.
BABY SITTER - The donkey naturally loves children. While there are a few exceptions the donkey is not usually a biter
or kicker. They have the patience of Job and therefore are ideally suited to being around children. For use around
children, the handicapped and for most uses (except jacks kept for breeding) a jennet or gelding is the preferred animal.
7.
WORKING DONKEY - The donkey is used all over the world for an infinite variety of jobs. Here in this country some
common uses are recreational riding; recreational driving both single and in teams; packing, many backpackers use a
donkey (which they often call a burrow) to carry the heavy load since the animals
walk at about a human's foot pace and are such enjoyable companions on the trail;
skidding or pulling things on the homestead such as firewood, trash etc.; pulling a
sledge, travois or wheeled cart to carry things for the small farm such as barb wire
for fencing, trash, or anything that needs to be moved; the donkey can also carry
such items on his back in panniers if that is more convenient than pulling it;
showing, many adults and children enjoy showing their animals in the donkey and
mule shows around the country; the different kinds of work your animal can do to
help you are limited only by your imagination.
8.
MULE BREEDING - All sizes of donkeys are
used to breed mules. Large mammoth jacks up
to 16 hands in height are used to breed draft
mules. Medium sized mammoth and large standard jacks are used to breed saddle and
pack mules. Standard jacks are often used to breed miniature mules in the larger size
ranges which are used in teams for pulling wagons and for children to ride and use.
Miniature jacks are mated with miniature horse mares or Shetland ponies to produce
very tiny mules for pets, single driving and just for fun.
Size Classes of Donkeys Recognized by
The Canadian Donkey & Mule Association and
The American Donkey and Mule Association
When measured at the withers:
Miniature: 36" or less
Small Standard: over 36" to 48"
Large Standard: over 48" to under 54" for jennets, under
56" for jacks & geldings
Mammoth: 54" and over for jennets; 56" and over for
jacks and geldings.
[when comparing with horse sizes note that 1 hand = 4"]
Some Advantages & Disadvantages:
#1 - Miniature:
- small size = small feed bills
- vet & farrier bills remain the same
- ideal for small acreage
- ideal first riding animal for very small child
-
can be driven & packed (maximum about 50 lbs. or
so with proper conditioning & training) within
limitations of their small size
can be used for mini-mule production if jacks
properly trained to breed ponies or mini-horses
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vet bills can be considerably higher if specializing in
tiny Miniatures 30" and under where jennets may
require a Caesarian section
quickly outgrown by children
require custom carts & custom harness although these
are more readily available than a decade ago
these tiny donkeys may require extra protection
(special fencing) from marauding dogs and coyotes
generally too expensive and too small for adequate
guard donkey work
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#2 - Small Standard:
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similar to Minis, but somewhat more versatile due to
larger size
well suited to a small acreage
good first animal for small children to ride, not as
readily outgrown as Minis
Shetland or small Welsh pony size carts and harness
can be adapted for these donkeys. This equipment
will be less expensive than custom equipment
Can be driven & packed (46" - 48" tall donkeys could
pack 100 lbs. or so with proper training and
conditioning)
Larger Small Standards (46" - 48") are suitable size
for guard donkeys
Useful as "nannies" to weanling horse foals
Can be used to produce small mules form pony mares
if jacks are properly trained for breeding
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small end of class (over 36" - 44") can fall prey to
marauding dogs and coyotes
small end of size class easily outgrown as a riding
animal for children
too small to use to teach calves to lead
#3 - Large Standard
- very versatile for riding, driving & packing. Can
pack 100-150 lbs. or so with proper training and
conditioning.
- Can be used by small adults. Not as easily outgrown
by children.
- Can use Welsh pony or Cob size carts & harness, with
adaptations.
- Good size to be guard donkeys
-
Top end of this class (52" - 54") is a good size to use
for teaching calves to lead or for small farm work.
Large Standard jacks in the 13 - 13.2 hh (52 - 55")
range with at least 50% Mammoth blood can be
suitable for saddle mule production if jacks are
properly trained.
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require more feed than smaller donkeys
require larger acreage and stabling facilities
#4 - Mammoth
- very versatile for riding, driving & packing by adults
and children. Not easily outgrown. Can pack 150200 lbs. or more when properly trained and
conditioned
- found in both draft type (heavy boned) & saddle type
(more refined)
- can be used for draft mule or saddle mule production
if jacks are properly trained
~~~~~~~~~~
- on American Rare Breeds List due to low population
and low numbers being registered
- smaller gene pool than the other three size classes
- require even more space than Standard size donkeys
- not usually suggested for guard donkeys due to size
and purchase costs
- more costly to feed than all other sizes, but still more
economical than a horse or pony of similar size
courtesy of:
Sybil E. Sewell, Windy Ridge Farm Donkeys,
Leslieville, AB
www.windyridgedonkeys.co.nr
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Miniature Donkeys:
Developed in the United States of America from importations of very small donkeys from Sardinia in the late 1920s. Later
additions of Sicilian and Ethiopian bloodlines have mixed to produce today's Miniature Mediterranean donkey in North
America.
Small & Large Standard Donkeys:
These donkeys probably developed from those brought to South America and Mexico by early explorers Christopher
Columbus and the Spanish Conquistadors in the 15 th and 16th centuries. Slowly they migrated further north into what is now
the United States.
American Mammoth Jack Stock:
This is the largest size class of donkeys recognized in North America. The breed was developed in the mid-18 th century by
George Washington who was given the gift of several large Spanish donkeys by the King of Spain. These animals, with later
additions of Maltese, Majorcan and Poitou bloodlines, became the foundation of Mammoth Jack Stock. The breed is on the
Rare Breeds List in North America because of the low numbers in existence.
All About Donkeys
By Sue Ann Weaver
Ready to try something new? Something innovative? Something really
different? Then why not add a new kind of equine to your stable this year?
Buy yourself a donkey and get ready for some fun. Just a few years ago,
donkeys (also known as burros, asses, and mountain canaries) were kept
mainly as family pets. Nowadays, folks of all ages ride and drive donkeys
for pleasure and in competition. They show
tiny Miniature Mediterranean donkeys and huge
Mammoth jack stock. Some people take along
a donkey friend when they go backpack
camping and let the obliging brayer pack their
gear.
In Colorado, people take things a bit farther with pack burro
racing, a really grueling marathon run across rugged mountain
terrain, each runner leading a fully loaded pack burro. Donkey fanciers
also use their long eared buddies to breed mules and hinnies. And donkeys
still make outstanding backyard pets--especially for equine aficionados
whose means or facilities are too limited for horsekeeping.
Donkeys come in many shapes and sizes. You say you're 5 feet 10 inches
and weigh 200 pounds so no donkey on earth is big enough for you to ride?
Not so. Or perhaps your argument is that you live in the suburbs and have
no room for a donkey? Wrong again. Donkeys come in a size to fit every
fancier and every need. The donkey most familiar to many people is the
"standard". This is the amiable fellow commonly known as a "burro".
Standard donkeys stand between 36.01 inches at the shoulder to 48 inches
in height, a good size to make a handy driving animal or a safe, dependable
mount for a child. These guys are the least expensive donkeys to buy and one of the least expensive to maintain. This is the
size of the wild burros that one can adopt out of the west and these wild ones make good reliable pets soon after they are
adopted and begin to be loved and petted by their families. Those who frequent petting zoos are likely to be familiar with the
standard's cousin, the miniature donkey. Miniatures are 36 inches and less. Most of these tiny donkeys hailed from the
Mediterranean area, mostly Sicily and Sardinia. At one time, miniature donkeys could only be had in the usual donkey color,
Grey-dun (the mouse color that horsemen know as grulla, always with dorsal stripe and shoulder cross and sometimes with
stripes on ears and legs). Nowadays miniature breeders offer animals in nearly all donkey colors, white, blacks, browns,
chestnut and spotted. Miniature longears can be kept in small backyards and housing can be 6 x 6 ft. box stall in the garage.
Some have even been potty trained and kept as house pets. Where zoning laws pose no problems a miniature donkey can be
the ideal pet. Miniatures also make delightful driving animals and carts and harness and wagons can be bought for them
scaled down to their size. Miniature donkeys even enjoy status as pack burros for their owner's camping ventures.
At the opposite end of the spectrum we find massive Mammoth jack stock donkeys. Mammoth jennets (females) stand 54
inches and above, and Mammoth jacks (jacks are ungelded males, few mammoths are castrated because of their monetary
value, however a mammoth gelding could be ideal as a riding or driving animal for a larger individual) must be 14 hands, 56
inches tall. Many modern mammoth jacks are very tall standing from 15 to 16 hands. Mammoth jacks are also massive,
weighing from 1,000 to 2,000 pounds. Thus, there are donkeys large enough for even the biggest and brawniest of men to
ride. Mammoths are most generally used for breeding fine mules, and more mammoth jack stock. But more and more jack
stock owners are also taking to the show ring, exhibiting in donkey pleasure, trail and harness classes. A mammoth jack,
National Champion "Black Bart" appeared in exhibition at the 1984 Olympics harnessed to a pleasure cart. The desirable jack
stock color in the past was black with white or silver hair on the muzzle, eye areas and underbelly. Blacks are still desired but
so are chestnuts, and all the other donkey colors including spotted.
In between the standards and the mammoths, we find the regular ridingsize longears, the "Large Standard" donkeys. Large standard jennets
range from 48 at the withers to 53 inches. Large standard jacks and
geldings from 48 to 56 inches (between standard and mammoth size in
other words). The large standard is perhaps the most useful donkey of
all. He can easily carry an adult, pull a cart, and pack a weighty load or
even breed saddle mules or hinnies. Donkey show performance classes
are filled with adults riding these intermediate size brayers both English
and Western. All donkeys are strong and sturdy and have great weightcarrying ability.
The last donkey note is the American Spotted Ass. Nearly two decades ago, the
American Council of Spotted Asses was established to register and promote
paint and leopard spotted donkeys. These colorful donks come in all sizes,
miniature to mammoths, and can be double registered with the ACOSA and the
American Donkey and Mule Society.
DONKEY CARE
If you know horses you already know how to care for a donkey. Treat him like a small, quiet natured horse and things will go
smoothly. However, there are a few special concerns about donkey care that are worth noting. Donkeys do not require a lot of
feed and certainly not a lot of high energy, heating feed if they are in good condition to start with. Go light on concentrates
and legume hay. Despite what those good 'ol boys will tell you, donkeys can and do founder if overfed and donkey
youngstock is prone to the same leg problems that plague horse youngsters who are overfed on grain. Overweight donkeys
tend to develop very unsightly "sausage roll" crests which tend to fall over and detract from a donkey's good looks. Feed your
longears according to his size needs and the use you put him to. Donkey feet are incredibly tough yet pliable and will not
under normal domestic circumstances wear down or chip off like horse's hooves do. You will have to keep your don's feet
properly trimmed, or he may develop "Sultan's slipper" feet. Donkeys need to be wormed and have the same injections as
horses and if lung worms are a problem in your area, be sure to work all donkeys will for this with the Ivermectin wormers as
they are particularly susceptible to lung worms.
If you decide to breed your donkey remember jennets have a longer gestation period than mares do. The normal span is 12
months, but donkeys have been known to carry their foals 13 months and still have a normal baby. BE SURE not to breed
your jennet unless you have an assured home for the foal.
There is so much to learn about donkeys and their kin, and so much to do with them, and so much pure enjoyment of them as
individual "people with longears", that donkey owners never seem to get tired of their loveable longears. So if you are an
equine fan, try a donkey, you won't regret it!
To Breed or Not to Breed that Jennet?
By Sybil E. Sewell
www.windyridgedonkeys.co.nr
As spring approaches, thoughts of breeding that jennet who has been a faithful friend for several years run through the mind.
But be aware that as the cliché goes there is more to breeding than meets the eye. The owner is responsible that everything
possible has been done to ensure the safety and careful breeding of the jennet to an appropriate jack.
1. Using the CDMA Handbook, take a critical look at your jennet, or have an equine vet do so, to determine her conformation
faults. Better yet, have her inspected at four years old or over to know whether she is of sufficient quality to enter the stud
book. If she does not pass with 65% or higher, it is probably not wise to breed from her.
If she is an older jennet, age ten or over, with no known previous breeding history, discuss with your vet the merits and
problems likely to arise from breeding such an older animal. Foal rejection is one problem that can often occur in older
mares or jennets who have never previously produced a live foal.
2. Have a vet examine the jennet's reproductive tract to see if it is normal and healthy. There are recorded cases of jennets
that look perfectly normal on the exterior, and even cycled normally, but never conceived a foal. Internal examinations
proved that there was no connection between the vagina and the uterus. The abnormality left the vagina as a blind pouch
and semen could never ever reach its destination!
3. For the sake and sanity of both jack and jennet owner, consider the jennet's education. Is she halter trained and easy to
catch? Does she stand willingly to have her hooves trimmed? Does she load and travel in a trailer with no problems?
While this type of basic education may seem irrelevant to the breeding process, it is vital should the jennet need to be
removed from the pasture in case of accident, at the time of farrier work, or if the jack owner uses in-hand breeding
methods or equine artificial insemination. Should the jack owner utilize the ultrasound technology of the local vet to
verify pregnancy, the jennet may need to be trailered to the vet clinic.
If the jack owner is expected to give the jennet the basic education she should have received at home, don't be surprised if
a training fee is added to the bill? Basic training should already have been completed at home before sending the jennet
away for breeding.
4.
Visit the owner of the jack to whom you plan to send your jennet. Talk extensively with the owner about methods of
breeding (in-hand, pasture or artificial insemination), take a tour of the facilities, and discuss feeding and management of
the donkeys there and any special needs your jennet may have. For example, at Windy Ridge Farm, our breeding contract
states that no jennet will be unloaded without negative Coggins test papers and a clean veterinarian's health certificate
particularly with reference to the reproductive tract. Jennets are also requested to be dewormed, have hooves trimmed, and
4-way shots prior to coming to our farm for breeding.
If you are comfortable with the facilities and management, then meet the jack. Is he CDMA registered and inspected?
What was his grade at inspection? Does he have a show record at halter or performance? If he is a large Standard or
Mammoth, ask if he is a jennet jack or a mule jack.
5.
Does it matter if the jack is a jennet jack or a mule jack? Nothing really, at least not on the exterior, but behaviorally
speaking there can be a HUGE difference! A jennet jack has been raised to breed jennets and will readily accept them.
Even so, if pasture breeding is used there can be considerable hassle of the jennet and chasing around. A few jacks will
breed both horse mares or jennets, but most develop a strong preference depending on how they were raised.
A mule jack however, has been raised with horses with the goal in mind that he breeds horse mares for mule production.
He looks like a donkey on the outside but he thinks like a horse on the inside. Because he doesn't think he is a donkey then
he will behave more like a horse stallion and he may attack and savage any jennet presented to him for breeding. If a
jennet is turned loose with such a jack she can be badly bitten and beaten, and it may take four or five grown men to drive
him off and rescue her. The consequence of such traumatization can be that the jennet is terrified of being approached,
never mind bred, by any jack in the future.
6.
Take a critical look at the jack to whom your jennet will be bred. Evaluate his disposition, conformation and have him
walked and trotted in front of you to evaluate his movement. What are his faults? Will his conformation compensate for
the faults in your jennet? Check his height compared to that of the jennet you plan to have bred. I would seriously
question breeding a 50" jennet to a tall Mammoth jack, especially a jennet with no previous breeding history. The general
rule of thumb is to breed plus or minus four to six inches in height. The same consideration needs to be given to Miniature
donkeys where breeding very small jennets (under 32") may be cause for future birthing problems.
7.
Seriously question any thought of breeding a donkey in the fall or winter months in Canada unless a heated barn is
available for cold weather foaling. Donkeys can foal after gestation periods of 11-14 months so it is easy for all but the
most vigilant owner to miss the right time. Winter foaling in a snow bank can be fatal, or at the very least result in frozen
ears, tails, or limbs. Generally foals produced in April - August, depending on the provincial location, do best because
they have the advantage of sunshine and fresh grass. Jennets may cycle erratically throughout a sunny winter, but may not
ovulate because like all equines this time of year is a period of anestrus which gives them a reproductive rest.
With careful selection of both parents, and time of year for breeding, the resulting offspring should surpass both parents in
quality and arrive at the best time of year for optimum growth and development.
Carl and Sybil Sewell have bred and raised donkeys for overt thirty years. Windy Ridge Farm is located near Leslieville,
Alberta.
Methods of Breeding Donkeys
By Sybil E. Sewell
www.windyridgedonkeys.co.nr
Breeding donkeys may seem as simple as the equation of one jennet plus one jack will produce a fuzzy, longeared foal next
year. However, donkeys are part of the equine family and as such the breeder has a choice of three basic breeding methods.
1.
Pasture breeding occurs when the jack is turned out with a group of jennets.
The advantage is a natural breeding situation.
The disadvantages:
- If the jack is not excellent condition he may not be able to successfully
breed all the jennets.
- Risk of injury to the jack by aggressive jennets, or vice versa.
- Risk of injury to foals in the herd. The jack may try to kill any jack foal
born.
- Risk of infection being spread in an uncontrolled situation.
- Unless closely observed, it is difficult to determine dates of breeding,
and hence foaling dates the following year.
2.
In Hand breeding occurs when the jennet is placed in a breeding chute or stall and the jack is controlled by his handler.
Disadvantages to this method are the requirement of extra care, handling, and facilities during regular teasing and breeding
of the jennets. Some jacks are very slow breeders.
Advantages are:
- Controlled situation for breeding with minimal risk of injury to either jack or jennet. The foal can be placed close by
so the jennet is not worried about her offspring.
- The jack's energy can be conserved and is not wasted chasing jennets.
- Risk of infection is minimized in that both jack and jennet can be disinfected before and after breeding.
- Exact dates for breeding can be recorded and more accurate dates for foaling can be predicted.
3.
Equine Artificial Insemination occurs when semen is collected from the jack and used to inseminate one or more jennets
ready for breeding. The disadvantages to many small breeders would be the costs involved for a trained technician, or the
courses and purchase of equipment to establish them in Equine A.I. The advantages are the lowered risk of infection, and
the breeding of a larger quantity of jennets at the same time than could be possible by in hand breeding.
Jacks can be very precocious at an early age, and young jennets often show their first heat cycles early in the yearling year.
Since the donkey is a very slow maturing animal it is unwise to allow breeding prior to the age of three years old. Pregnancy in
the immature jennet can produce congenital malformations in the foal. The lengthy gestation period, which can very from 11
to 14 months, can produce permanent damage to skeletal and muscular systems of the immature dam. Physically immature
jennets may lack the mental maturity to be good mothers.
Careful choice of both jack and jennet, as well as the method of breeding, can indeed yield a fuzzy, longeared foal next year,
which will make the long wait worth it!
Foaling out the Donkey Jennet
By Sybil E. Sewell
www.windyridgedonkeys.co.nr
Spring is almost here and with the change of seasons comes foaling time for equine breeders. The mule producer's horse mares
waddle around the barnyard and those of us with donkeys view hairy versions of the "Goodyear Blimp" trailing out to the hay
feeders. During the last quarter of pregnancy we all play this annual waiting game.
Throughout pregnancy the jennets have maintained a quiet lifestyle with regular exercise, but no hard or fast work, up until the
last quarter of pregnancy (3 months). The last quarter should involve some exercise
at liberty, but no riding or driving. A programme of regular hoof care (every 6-8
weeks) and deworming have prepared the jennet to be in good condition for foaling.
However, it is wise to check with the vet before any deworming medication is given
during the last quarter of gestation.
Changes in feed are usually not required until the last quarter of gestation when the
fetus makes the greatest growth. Excessive feed early in pregnancy can create
obesity and potential foaling problems. Increased feed for the jennet should be
maintained from the final quarter of pregnancy throughout the first three months of
foaling. The latter is the period of maximum milk production. This is the time
when protein, vitamin and mineral levels such as Calcium and Phosphorus need to
be increased to accommodate the great physical drain on the jennet during this six
months of hard work. It is wise to seek an advice from an equine nutritionist or
veterinarian regards the important dietary changes during this period.
Having the previous year's breeding date on the jennet greatly assists in establishing
a foaling date for this year. Therefore it is crucial to know every jennet in the herd
well, and keep good records for the signs shown with each foaling. We attend every foaling it is rare that a jennet sneaks a foal
out by herself at Windy Ridge Farm. That being said, in our almost thirty years’ experience as donkey breeders, we have found
that the average donkey gestation period lasts twelve months plus/or minus one week. Then there are those jennets who choose
to foal anywhere from 11 months to 14 months - all within the normal range of gestation for donkeys! And the same jennet is
rarely consistent in the length of gestation time from one pregnancy to the next!
Jennets are also rarely consistent in showing the same signs of impending birth from one pregnancy to the next. However,
generally a jennet will show some or all of the following signs:
- Gradual enlargement of the udder from about 30 days prior to birth. As the birth date approaches the udder becomes
enlarged and remains enlarged.
- Enlargement of the teats to the very trip occurs several days prior to birth.
-
A waxy secretion that forms a cap over the end of each teat may form up to 48 hours prior to birth. Some jennets actually
drip milk in the last 24-48 hours. Under no circumstances milk the jennet at this stage.
Softening of the pelvic ligaments creates a groove along either side of the spinal column in the loin area towards the tail
head. This sign may go unnoticed in a maiden jennet or one with a thick winter coat.
Vulva becomes very soft and loose during the last week or two, and gradually elongates as birth approaches. Birth is
usually in a matter of hours when the lips of the vulva are swollen out to be flush with the hindquarters.
Jennet may show an unfriendly attitude towards other animals and prefer to stand by herself. This attitude is usually
prevalent during the last two weeks prior to foaling.
The jennet will show restlessness as the foal turns and prepares to move into the birth passage. At this stage she may look
thinner, walk around the stall and get up and down a number of times. Sometimes birth occurs immediately after the foal
has turned, or sometimes the jennet will wait for another day or so.
Just prior to birth the jennet's tail will be carried out away from the body, lifted and usually kinked to one side. She may
frequently pass small amounts of soft manure, or urinate.
Jennets not only show various combinations of signs prior to foaling, but unlike horse mares, they can and do foal at any time
of the day or night, so close observation is important. In general we have found that if the jennet shows no signs of foaling by
midnight, then she will often wait until the four to six am time frame. But she may also choose to foal at noon, suppertime or
while you are doing morning chores! A clean, safely fenced corral or special large clean box stall are ideal for foaling.
Foaling out where barbed wire fences surround the pasture, near streams or sloughs or among the rest of the herd can invite
disaster.
Where the foal program has the jennet foal out in a large foaling box stall, it is preferable to get the jennet in to her foaling box
at night starting a week or two before her due date. The foaling box should have been thoroughly cleaned, disinfected and
deeply bedded with oat or barley straw prior to her being allowed access. Such stalls should receive thorough daily cleaning
and be thoroughly disinfected between one jennet and the next.
The jennet will sometimes go "off her feed" a few days prior to foaling. This often causes great stress for the owner who
assumes she should be eating heartily in order to keep her strength up for the great event. The jennet however, instinctively
knows it is time to clean out the whole digestive system prior to foaling, and by this stage there really isn't too much room in
there for food anyway!
When the jennet does finally get down to the business of producing the long awaited foal, she will usually show signs of
restlessness, pace the box stall or corral, and repeatedly lay down and get up again. When the cervix is fully dilated, the 'water
bag' protrudes into the vagina and ruptures releasing amniotic fluid which lubricates the passageway for the foal.
The jennet will now start to strain hard and soon a pair of tiny forefeet will appear. Normally the feed point downward as in a
diving position, and as more of the front legs emerge the foal's nose will be seen resting on the front legs. This is the normal
birth position. Do not hurry the jennet and do not pull on the foal's feet. Unless there is a problem in the presentation of the
foal, the jennet will handle the birth herself, without interference, in 15 to 30 minutes. As the birth process proceeds the jennet
will often show the licking reflex long before foaling is complete.
If the jennet has been straining hard for 15 to 20 minutes and no foal appears, or the front feet appear but no nose, only one
foot shows, the soles of the small feet face upward or the dark red of the placental mass appears prior to the birth of the foal,
then call the vet without delay. These signs of malpresentation show the jennet will need expert assistance if both she and the
foal are to come through the birth process alive and well.
As the neck is born, the head may start to move and break the membrane that encloses the foal. If it does not, tear the
membrane open and wipe the foal's nostrils clear of mucus to help it breathe. Many a foal has died of asphyxiation due to lack
of assistance at birth to remove tough fetal membranes. The nostrils of a live foal will often flare as he takes his first few
breaths, and he may show a sucking reflex at this time even tough birth is not yet completed.
Once birth is completed, do not cut the navel cord - the jennet will break the cord when she gets up, or it will snap as the foal
struggles to his feet. This is the time when the owner with a good relationship with the jennet can go through the steps of
imprinting the foal. This procedure is another whole other story in itself which is described step by step in Dr. Robert Miller's
excellent book "Imprint Training of the Newborn Foal".
Once the jennet has risen to her feet, she will then lick her foal dry. This licking action is very important, especially with
maiden jennets, for it stimulates the motherhood instinct of the jennet, consequent milk production and prevents chilling of the
newborn. The jennet will usually rise, and within half an hour expel the afterbirth (placenta). If the afterbirth has not been
expelled within 6-8 hours call for veterinary assistance. Complications from the retained placenta can involve infection and or
laminitis (founder).
Once the umbilical cord has broken, dip the foal's navel stump in a five percent
iodine solution or Hibitane teat dip to prevent umbilical infection. We dip the
navel at birth and daily for the next 4-5 consecutive days as a precaution. The
jennet and foal should be watched to make sure the foal stands and nurses. It is
vital to the foal's health that he drinks the colostrum or first milk which is rich in
antibodies. If the foal is the jennets first, she may not want him to nurse and it
may be necessary to hold or tie the jennet while helping the foal to nurse for the first few times.
Watch for the foal to pass the meconium or first manure. These hard pellets are often passed as the foal is struggling to get to
his feet prior to nursing. However, should he not pass the meconium during the first 12-24 hours, and show signs of raising
his tail and straining without results, then the vet should be called to administer an enema or mineral oil to stimulate the
intestinal tract.
If the land in the area is selenium deficient, then an equine selenium injection given to the foal by the vet during the first 24
hours of life will prevent white muscle disease. An additional injection at two weeks of age is an added precaution. Some
breeders utilize a variety of injections, including antibiotics at birth, but we prefer to use the least invasive methods possible in
raising our foals.
The donkey has a thick, fluffy coat which gives the appearance of warmth and hardiness compared to the horse foal, but such
is not the case. Donkey foals are not very hardy and require suitable shelter especially for the first two to four weeks of life. If
a foal becomes soaked with rain he may easily become chilled only to contract bronchitis or pneumonia which are often fatal.
A preventative measure would be to bring the wet foal and jennet into the barn, rub him down well with towels and leave him
inside until thoroughly dry.
Between the age of two weeks to a month, the foal will start nibbling at the jennet's feed. At that time he can be fed separately
in a foal creep - a small pen especially constructed with an opening only large enough for foals to enter. There he can be fed a
17% - 18% commercial foal ration in order to develop his maximum potential growth. Within two to four weeks foals readily
learn to use a creep feeder. We have found the quality, rate of growth and development increase dramatically when foals are
creep fed.
Diarrhea may be seen in foals at the age of nine to ten days when the jennet starts the "foal heat". Within a few days the
condition usually disappears, and the foal is unaffected. However, if the condition persists or the foal is obviously not feeling
well or nursing normally then the veterinarian should be called.
Weaning of donkey foals can occur at four to six months of age, especially if they have been creep fed. Weaning at three
months or earlier is not recommended unless in an emergency. Such young foals will require extra attention and care to
survive, and often develop both physical and psychological problems.
While the jennet will return in heat nine to ten days after foaling, it is not recommended to breed on this first heat. The rate of
conception at this time is usually low and the reproductive tract may not have returned to normal in such a short interval of
time. The jennet is usually far more concerned about her young foal at this early stage, and is more likely to be upset by the
presence of the jack. On the second or third heat after foaling the jennet is more relaxed and receptive to the jack, the foal can
be kept in a pen or box stall close by the breeding area with few problems, and conception is more likely to occur.
The time lapse involved in rebreeding, combined with the length of the jennet's gestation, means that breeders will be unlikely
to achieve the production of one foal per year. These factors make it more logical to plan for two foals in a three year period.
Considering both the jennet's welfare and the donkey life span of 30-50 years, breeding every second year is a viable
alternative that allows for foals to always be born early in the spring - May-June - when they can best benefit from the
excellent spring grass.
With proper care and appropriate facilities for donkeys, the waiting game of that last quarter of gestation can be an exciting
time that culminates with the achievement of every breeders heart's desire - a lively, healthy, strong foal who will be a joy to
handle and an asset to the herd.
References:
- Berry C. & Kokas J., Donkey Business II, Published by Berry & Kokas, Sheaves Park Donkey Stud, Duns Creek,
Maitland, 2320, N.S.W. Australia
- Hutchins, Paul & Betsy, The Definitive Donkey, Hee Haw Book Service, American Donkey & Mule Society, 2901 N. Elm
St., Denton, Texas 76201
-
Lose, M. Phyllis, V.M.D., Blessed are the Foals, Macmillian Publishing Company, New York
Lose, M. Phyllis, V.M.D., Blessed are the Mares, Macmillian Publishing Company, New York
Svendsen, Dr. E., The Professional Handbook of the Donkey, published for The Donkey Sanctuary by Whittet Books,
London, England.
-
WHEN IS A DONKEY OR MULE READY TO RIDE? [OR DRIVE]
Many owners and horse trainers are in a rush to be riding 2 yr. olds and even younger in order to be ready for the many paying
classes that horse events and shows offer for youngsters. Some are driven to win because it is necessary for their living.
Unfortunately, the horse [mule or donkey] pays the price of such early ‘’training’’. Many of these animals are physically hurt
by too much pressure, physical and mental at an age when their minds are not matured and their bodies are still growing. Bones
have NOT fused and muscles and ligaments are stretched and damaged. Quite a few are lame before they even hit maturity.
After reading the information below, you may want to reconsider getting on that 2 or 3 yr. old mule or donkey!! If you
want your longears to have a long, healthy life you will make sure that you do not damage them physically by forcing
them to carry or pull heavy weight when they are still physically growing. It is not unusual for mules to grow until 8 or
9 years old!
Dr. Deb Bennett is known as an authority on the classification, evolution, anatomy, and biomechanics of fossil and living
horses. Her research interests also include the history of domestication and of individual horse breeds. When she talks about
horses, we need only to substitute that with ‘’mule ‘’ or donkey’’ and also remember that both the mule and the donkey
mature even slower than the horse! The following are excerpts from what Dr. Deb Bennett has to say on maturity in stock:
"Owners and trainers need to realize there's a definite, easy-to-remember schedule of fusion - and then make their decision as
to when to ride the horse based on that rather than on the external appearance of the horse.
For there are some breeds of horse - the Quarter Horse is the premier among these - which have been bred in such a manner as
to LOOK mature long before they actually ARE mature. This puts these horses in jeopardy from people who are either ignorant
of the closure schedule, or more interested in their own schedule (for futurities or other competitions) than they are in the
welfare of the animal.
The process of fusion goes from the bottom up. In other words, the lower down toward the hoofs you look, the earlier the
growth plates will have fused; and the higher up toward the animal's back you look, the later. The growth plate at the top of the
coffin bone (the most distal bone of the limb) is fused at birth. What this means is that the coffin bones get no TALLER after
birth (they get much larger around, though, by another mechanism). That's the first one. In order after that:
2. Short pastern - top & bottom between birth and 6 mos.
3. Long pastern - top & bottom between 6 mos. And 1 yr.
4. Cannon bone - top & bottom between 8 mos. And 1.5 yrs.
5. Small bones of knee - top & bottom on each, between 1.5 and 2.5 yrs.
6. Bottom of radius-ulna - between 2 and 2.5 yrs.
7. Weight-bearing portion of glenoid notch at top of radius - between 2.5 and 3 yrs.
8. Humerus - top & bottom, between 3 and 3.5 yrs.
9. Scapula - glenoid or bottom (weight-bearing) portion - between 3.5 and 4 yrs.
10. Hindlimb - lower portions same as forelimb
11. Hock - this joint is "late" for as low down as it is; growth plates on the tibial & fibular tarsals don't fuse until the animal is
four (so the hocks are a known "weak point" - even the 18th-century literature warns against driving young horses in plow or
other deep or sticky footing, or jumping them up into a heavy load, for danger of spraining their hocks)
12. Tibia - top & bottom, between 2.5 and 3 yrs.
13. Femur - bottom, between 3 and 3.5 yrs.; neck, between 3.5 and 4 yrs.; major and 3rd trochanters, between 3 and 3.5 yrs.
14. Pelvis - growth plates on the points of hip, peak of croup (tubera sacrale), and points of buttock (tuber ischii), between 3
and 4 yrs.
and what do you think is last? The vertebral column, of course. A normal horse has 32 vertebrae between the back of the skull
and the root of the dock, and there are several growth plates on each one, the most important of which is the one capping the
centrum.
These do not fuse until the horse is at least 5 1/2 years old (and this figure applies to a small-sized, scrubby, range-raised mare.
The taller your horse and the longer its neck, the later full fusion will occur. And for a male - is this a surprise? -- You add six
months. So, for example, a 17-hand TB or Saddlebred or WB gelding may not be fully mature until his 8th year - something
that owners of such individuals have often told me that they "suspected" .
The lateness of vertebral "closure" is most significant for two reasons.
One: in no limb are there 32 growth plates!
Two: The growth plates in the limbs are (more or less) oriented perpendicular to the stress of the load passing through them,
while those of the vertebral chain are oriented parallel to weight placed upon the horse's back.
Bottom line: you can sprain a horse's back (i.e., displace the vertebral growth plates) a lot more easily than you can sprain those
located in the limbs.
And here's another little fact: within the chain of vertebrae, the last to fully "close" are those at the base of the animal's neck
(that's why the long-necked individual may go past 6 yrs. to achieve full maturity). So you also have to be careful - very careful
- not to yank the neck around on your young horse, or get him in any situation where he strains his neck."
Dr. Deb Bennett
unknown
i
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Training Donkeys - Part I
By Meredith Hodges
Lucky Three Ranch, Loveland, CO
www.luckythreeranch.com
Training your donkey is really not much different from training horses and mules, though there are differences in instinct and
attitude that will determine your approach in given situations. The mechanics and techniques, however, remain the same.
The donkey foal needs to begin his life of training with imprinting. Imprinting is simply getting your donkey accustomed to
your touch, your voice, your smell, the way you look, and the way you interact with him. These are all the things he learns
from his mother that will determine the design of his character as he grows older. If he is to be a trainable and tractable
individual, you and his mother must teach him to be accepting and willing form the day he is born. This also implies that you
and the mother cannot be at odds. She needs to possess the traits you wish to instill in the foal. A well-trained mother will help
to produce a well-trained foal. If your jennet is not easy to handle, then she needs this training as well, and should be started
with imprinting and progress through the steps of training before the foal is born.
When imprinting the foal, think of the kind of attitude you want to cultivate in him. Do not come at him with the idea that he
must accept you. This is a forceful and intrusive attitude and can foster resistance. Come at him with love, patience and
kindness and these are the things he will learn. Give him respect and ask that he respect you and he will begin to learn about
behavioral limitations. If he were in a herd, the adults would demand that he respect their space with well-placed discipline.
You must learn to do the same without overdoing. If he bits, or kicks, a well-placed slap on the side of the mouth or rump, will
do the trick. Rewarding his good behaviors consistently will reinforce repetition of what you desire from him and will foster
understanding between you and him. This is the beginning of a long lasting bond of friendship.
Friendships would not be complete without a good balance of work and play. Teachers who make learning fun for children
make it easier for the child to learn what he needs to and encourage a good attitude towards life in general that can carry them
through the most trying of situations. The donkey is no different. If learning is fun and non-threatening, he will enjoy his time
with you and you will discover his innate desire to please and to serve. The best teachers are those who realize that they too
can learn from the child in this process. Each individual is different in their own way and it is important to recognize the
difference in order to foster confidence and self assurance. The donkey will appreciate that you not only wish to teach him, but
to learn from him as well. This will encourage his enthusiasm for learning and will assure that he learns well and confidently.
He will learn, right from the beginning, to want to follow you anywhere…cause it's the best place to be!
Don't get in a hurry with your donkey! Horses have a very quick response time as a rule, with minimal comprehension and
memory retention; mules' response time is slightly slower than the horse, but their comprehension and memory retention is
very keen. A donkey's response time is measurably slower (they appear to be in deep thought for what seems like an eternity to
you or I), but their comprehension and memory retention is the keenest. When training each of these different equines, you
need to learn to gauge your body language and expectations accordingly.
Whether your donkey is a young foal, an older animal, begin with imprinting and do the steps in sequence. Learn how to put
on the halter properly, let him wear it for a while, then take it off as he could get caught and injure himself. When he is not
bothered by you putting on and taking off the halter, you can teach him to be tied. Put on the halter and tie him to a safe post.
Come by to see him every ten, or fifteen minutes, untie him and ask him to "Come". If he does not take a step toward you, just
retie him and leave. Come back in ten minutes and try again. When he takes a step toward you, reward him with a treat and
lots of praise. Stroke him on the neck and shoulder, on the poll between the ears or scratch his chest or rump…whichever he
finds most pleasing. Then try a few more steps. Don't ask for any more steps each day than he is willing to give. Save them
for the next time and soon he will lead easily.
When he is leading easily, you can start taking walks around the farm and begin to introduce him to things he may find
frightening. Lead him as close as he will go at your shoulder, then step toward the obstacle as close as the lead will allow and
coax him to you. Offer a reward if necessary to entice him and be sure to reward him when he comes forward. When he is
confident about investigating "things" with you, you can progress to an obstacle course.
At first try over logs, a bridge, tires, or other such obstacles. You may find your donkey reluctant to pick up his feet to
negotiate an obstacle. He will probably try to go around it any way he can! Stand close to his head and hold him on a shorter
lead and ask him to "Come". If he moves only one foot over a log, tire, or onto the bridge, stop, hold him there and give him a
reward for his effort. Then ask for the next foot and if he is willing, let him walk of the obstacle, then reward him again. If he
only moves one foot more…reward that, and proceed…slowly! We don't want him to just run through it. We want him to
come when we say "Come" and to whoa when we say "Whoa". You are beginning to establish a verbal communication with
your donkey, so keep it simple and consistent. Do all obstacles the same way.
Donkeys like to get crooked over obstacles. When he has learned to step through, or over an obstacle, but is not going straight,
you can step directly in front of him, holding the halter on both sides and ask for straightness as he negotiates the obstacle.
Once he has learned to follow you over and around obstacles, he will be ready to begin the fundamentals of showmanship.
Hold your lead in your left hand, keeping your right free and straight out in front of you. He should learn to lead with slack in
the lead and to follow your shoulder. If he gets too close, you can use your right hand to push him back into position. Once
you have begun showmanship training, ALWAYS lead him this way! Teach him to stand squarely on all fours every time he
stops. We are not just teaching him to setup, but to carry his body in a balanced fashion so he will develop good posture and
balance. When you want to teach him to trot on the lead, give the verbal command to "Trot" and slowly move your own legs
into a very slow trot. If he is difficult, do not go to the whip. Try to find something toward which he wants to trot. Above all,
don't get discouraged if he won't trot the first few times, just slow back down and do something he already knows, quit that day
and tray again the next. Eventually, he WILL get it!
Do the same exercises outlined in my video training series Tape #1 with your donkey as you would with your horse or mule,
only be prepared to be much slower, calmer and supportive when he complies. Learn to reward even the slightest movement in
the direction of compliance and allow him to progress at his own speed, not yours. Soon he will be wearing his halter and lead,
standing tied quietly while you brush him and clean his feet, following you around and over obstacles, loading into a trailer and
learning the beginning stages of showmanship. You will have a good, solid foundation on which to begin his formal training.
Training Donkeys - Part II
By Meredith Hodges
Lucky Three Ranch, Loveland, CO
www.luckythreeranch.com
If you have followed the steps outlined in Part I, your donkey should now be easy to catch and put on his halter and lead, stand
quietly while being groomed, allow you pick up and clean his feet, follow you on the lead both over and around obstacles, load
into a trailer and should follow your shoulder and your verbal commands. He should be happy and willing to be with you. It is
also a good idea to let him watch other animals being worked if at all possible. Donkeys and mules really can learn the
purpose of their training when they see other equines being worked. When they are watching, you can almost see them saying,
"When is it going to be my turn?" They may actually be jealous of time spend with someone other than themselves. They see
others tacked up in bridles and saddles and handling it well. When it is their turn to be saddled, or bridled, they are not as
afraid as they might have been if they had never watched.
Another good idea is to lead them around the area in which you will be working and "inspect" it together. This allows them
time to see if there is anything to which they may take exception before you start asking them to do anything. They will
appreciate your consideration and be more willing to work for you. Don't think that just because they were there the day before
that they will remember that it was alright. Begin each new day with a brief walk around the schooling area. After all, things
do have a way of changing form day to day, even if it is as slight as a new plant, or a stick, or anything that wasn't there before.
You may not remember things in such minute detail, but they definitely do! This is one way you can minimize distraction and
resistance during the actual training process.
Now we will begin his training in a round pen, or a small pen that has been modified such tat the corners are rounded. Take
him into the round pen with only his halter and lead. The first thing he will need to learn is to move away from pressure.
Donkeys naturally move into pressure and are terrific crowders! They always seem to want to be as close to you as possible. I
would suspect this is a defense tactic. Horses and mules have the natural instinct to flee when they think they are in danger.
Donkeys are just the opposite and will freeze. If a donkey is attached, he will move his body into the predator in hopes of
knocking him to the found where he can then use his hooves and teeth for defense. It is important that you teach him right
from the beginning that you are not a predator and that he must not move into you. If he does knock you down, it could be ver
dangerous, especially if he is a jack!
Take your donkey into the middle of the pen and ask him to whoa. Reward him for whoa, and step toward his shoulder, pulling
his head toward you and tap him on the flank and stifle and ask him to "Move over". Do not move your body unless you
absolutely have to. We want him to keep is front end bent toward you and step under with his near hind leg and begin to
execute a turn on the forehand. This means his front legs will stay stationary while the hind legs move around them and away
from you. We want him to take only one step each time you tap him, so don't get carried away and tap him too hard. We are
laying the foundation for hindquarter control and it is easier to let him move slowly, one step at a time in the beginning than it
is to ask him to slow down from too many steps later! Watch his hind legs to make sure he crosses in front of the offside hind
and stop and reward him after each tap and step. He will probably double in the barrel and move his front legs as well in the
beginning. As long as he moves his hindquarters away from you, reward him and repeat. We can perfect his style as he learns
what is expected. The first few times, only ask for one or two steps. When he has done it on the near side, repeat on the off
side. Each session you can ask for a few more steps each direction.
When he is doing the turn on the forehand fairly easily (doesn't have to be perfect), you can begin to teach him to move his
shoulders away from you with a turn on the haunches. This is a lot more difficult since donkeys love to "glue" their front feet
to the ground! Take the side of his halter in your left hand, ask him for one step forward, push his face away from you as far as
your arm will reach; then in the right hand with the end of the lead, tap him firmly on the shoulder and give the command,
"Over." If his hindquarters come around, leave your left hand on the halter, take your right hand and use your body weight to
shove him over one step, then stop, praise and reward him for moving his shoulders (even if you had to do all the work!!!). Try
again, tapping him with the end of the lead. If he still won't move his shoulders, repeat as before. If he does not begin to try to
move his shoulders after three tries, use a riding crop in your right hand and tap the shoulders sharply with that….only once!
He will probably be so surprised that he will step over quickly. Be ready to reward him when he does. Then stop your lesson
there. You can ask for two steps each direction the next session. If you try to do any more, you will encounter resistance and
he will be unwilling to perform, so be patient and be ready to take all the time HE needs.
Next, we will teach him to back. Hold the lead in your left hand, pull down and back, release, down and back, and release
while you give the command, "Back". If he doesn't take a step back, use your right hand to push and release on the middle of
his chest. It is most effective if you only use one finger and you may have to push hard before you release to get the desired
response. When he takes one step back, no matter how small the step is, reward him with a treat, praise and stroke him on the
shoulder, wither, or pull, or scratch his chest, whichever pleases him most. Do this no more than three times, then end your
lesson. You can ask for a better response the next time.
Do these three exercises until he begins to move easily away when you ask. It may take three or four sessions. When he does
comply easily, you can begin to teach him to lunge. Review these exercises every time you begin your training session. Then,
release the lead from the halter. Hold the lunge whip in your left hand and use your right to point to the right (the direction you
wish him to go), raise both your arms in unison and tell him to, "Walk-on". If he doesn't move away, lower both arms and raise
them again, repeating the command. If he still won't move out, give the verbal command again and give him a firm tap on the
gaskin, just below the tail and above the hock, then take a step back and wait for him to comply (donkeys need time to think).
If he still won't move, repeat until he does. Once he does start moving away, follow behind and to the side at a distance that he
will tolerate. This distance will vary with the individual.
You can determine the distance you need to keep from your donkey to get the desired response by watching his reaction to you.
When you are too close, he will stop and tuck his tail. If you are too far away, he will slow his gait and begin to wander. When
you are the correct distance, he will walk forward though in the beginning he will hesitate after every step or two. Practice
moving into him and away to get him to move. Try to stay out of his space and keep him moving forward after the initial tap of
the whip. If he stops and doesn't seem to want to move, strike the fence behind him once you have him on the rail. Try NOT
to hit him if at all possible! Remember, donkeys freeze when they are confused, for frightened and you will get nowhere with
him at that point. He needs to learn, but he also needs to enjoy what he is doing! Don't forget to reward him frequently, but be
careful that you ask him to go further each time, or you may find yourself training him to only walk so many steps at a time! In
the beginning, only ask him to go one direction and change directions each session. We will teach him to reverse and go
forward later, once he has learned what we are asking.
When training your donkey, make sure you have plenty of time. You never want to get in a hurry. You want your time together
to be a fun and enjoyable experience, each of you learning about the other. Most of us today are on fast-forward….remember;
your donkey is on slo-mo!
Training Donkeys - Part III
By Meredith Hodges
Lucky Three Ranch, Loveland, CO
www.luckythreeranch.com
Each training session with your donkey, review all he has previously learned:
always lead him to and from the work station in a showmanship manner,
holding the lead in your left hand with your right arm extended forward;
groom him and clean his feet; review the turn on the forehand and turn on the
hindquarters in the roundpen; and send him forward to the rail in the roundpen
at the walk. You may have discovered that you need to follow him more
closely than you would a horse, or mule. Staying in the middle of the
roundpen while you lunge him may not be practical to keep him moving. Just
stay behind him and to the side while driving him forward with your lunge
whip, touching him with it only when absolutely necessary. Match your steps
with his; walk only as fast as HE chooses. If you get in a hurry, he will stop.
Be sure to give the command to "whoa" each time you want him to stop and
reward him.
Now that he is moving out well at the walk, we can teach him a reverse. As
he is walking forward easily around the roundpen, turn away from him,
completely around until you are in front if him. Step toward him, lay the whip
ahead of him and give the command to "reverse." Be aware of his space. Do
not rush at him, or he may turn improperly. We want him to turn into the rail and resume the opposite direction. Give him
plenty of time to make the turn and ask him to "walk-on." If he has difficulty, take a few steps forward and with the whip, tap
him gently on the shoulder to encourage him to turn. There is a purpose to turning away from him rather than just running
ahead of him to turn him. By turning back the opposite way that he is travelling, you are establishing a new direction of travel
as well as giving him time to see that there will be a change in his movement. Most donkeys learn this very quickly.
So far, your donkey has worked only in his halter. At this point is where mules and donkeys may differ. He has learned the
walk and the reverse. Now he needs to learn the command to "trot." Some donkeys will take exception to this command if
they do not see a purpose. It is at this point that I introduce the saddle, and/or driving harness (if he is too small to ride). I will
also introduce him to the bridle at the same time. Let him see the harness, or saddle, then slowly put it on. Most donkeys will
let you do this quite easily.
Once he is tacked up, send him to the rail of the roundpen against the walk. Then give the command to "trot" and move
towards his hindquarters with the whip, shuffling your feet in the dirt to make some noise. If he trots at this point, do not strike
him with the whip or he will stop. If he isn't trotting, you make strike him with the whip once again at the gaskin, above the
hock. Then keep shuffling your feet and move forward as he does, maintaining the same distance between you. Move your
arms up and down in big motions to encourage him forward. You can strike the fence behind him if needed. If you invade his
space, he will stop. If he trots, even a few steps, stop him with the command to whoa and reward him for his compliance. Do
this one more time to clarify that you DO want him to trot. Then end the lesson here. The next session he will be better. Each
session he will offer more steps of trot. Each time ask him only to go as far as he is comfortable as long as it is just a little
farther than the time before. Each time, only ask him to trot twice in each direction. Donkeys don't appreciate too much
repetition.
After his first lesson of trot, you can begin to integrate rein cues. The second trot lesson, you will review all that he has learned
before up to the trot. Before you go to his trot lesson, you can attach your drivelines and ground drive him through the walk
and reverse while on the lines. He should have no trouble with you at his rear since you have been lunging him from a close
proximity from the beginning. Use your whip as you did for the turn on the haunches, at the shoulder, for his turns and at the
gaskin to encourage him forward, but just touch him with it to remind him, don't strike him. We want his movements smooth
and correct, not abrupt. Pull as lightly as you can with a squeeze/release on the lines to encourage the turns; make him move
off more from your body language and the ship than you do with the lines. If he does well, stop, remove the lines and send him
back to the rail for his trot work, twice each direction. This means twice with trotting steps, not twice around the pen! Then
stop. Reward him and tell him school's out until the next time! Whether you come back tomorrow, or a week later, rest
assured your donkey will be right where you left him in his training. They have an incredible memory!
The next lesson with your donkey, we will review all we did before and add turning through the middle of the pen, and turning
both into the rail and away from the rail on the drivelines using your body language and whip cues as light as possible. Be
clear with your verbal commands. For instance, tell him to walk-on, and repeat the words as he walks on. When you wish to
turn, give the command to "whoa", then "Gee" for a right turn and "walk-on" to continue forward. When you wish to turn left,
ask him to "whoa" then use the command "haw" for the left turn and "walk-on" to continue forward. Be very careful not to
pull too hard as this will cause an over reaction. After his ground driving lesson, take off the drivelines and resume his lesson
on lunging at the trot. Remember not to overdo any one stage of training. Two times seems to be the magic number. Then go
on to the next step. In other words, lunge at the walk twice each way, ground drive straight twice each way, ground drive
reverse twice each way, ground drive turns twice each way, and lunge at the trot twice each way. This will keep him from
becoming bored and resistant.
When he ground drives fairly well at the walk, you can mount him if he is a large enough donkey to ride. Mount him from
both sides and dismount a few times at first. When he seems calm, you can stay aboard. Take a treat in your hand and
encourage him to bend his head and neck around to each side and take the treat from your hand. At the same time, give short,
light tugs on the rein on that side. This will encourage lightness in the bridle later. Now we are ready to move with you
aboard.
It is best to use an assistant at this stage. Have your assistant lead your donkey forward a few steps with you aboard. Both of
you give the command to "walk-on" and squeeze with your legs once or twice then the assistant will lead him off. Have a
riding crop in your hand to use if he does not comply. This will take the place of the lunge whip. Use it only if you have to
and only tap him once lightly for every command you give. After just a few steps, say "whoa" and reward him, even if it is just
two steps! You can continue this lesson until he has completed one rotation of the roundpen each way. Then stop him with
"whoa," and ask him to back a step or two. Give light pulls on both reins in a squeeze release fashion to start, then as he begins
to move his feet backwards, alternate your pressure on the reins with the front foot that is forward. If he does not wish to back,
your assistant can help with pressure to his chest as you did on the lead. Always end your riding, or ground driving lesson with
a back and don't pull so hard on the reins that he resists by
jutting his head out. Encourage him to stay light in the
bridle! Then finish your lesson with lunging at the trot.
Donkeys learn a little differently than do mules, or horses.
Their responses are much slower initially, but they learn
completely, if you are clear with your intent. In halter
training, your donkey learned to walk when you pull and
move away when you apply pressure to a certain area of his
body. In the roundpen, he learned to walk away from you
and to walk and turn on the drivelines. He learned to walk
with you on his back with someone leading him to help
reinforce the cues you were giving him. You and your
assistant must be in tune with each other so as not to confuse
the donkey. He learns that the verbal command comes first,
the legs come second when you ride, and the crop, or whip
last. As he learns, he will begin to respond closer to the
initial verbal command. Ground driving is the same with the
reins in place of the legs. At first, you may need the voice,
reins and whip, but as he learns, you will find him reacting sooner and sooner, until he is actually complying on the verbal
command alone! Yes, donkeys and mules are that smart!
You may have been having trouble with the trot on the lead up to this point, but now he should be ready to do that as well.
After your trotting lesson in the roundpen, leave the area in a showmanship fashion with the lead in your left hand and a treat in
your extended right hand. Give the command to "trot" and slowly move into trot yourself. If he still does not wish to trot, have
your assistant move up from behind just as you did when you were lunging him at the trot in the roundpen. He should comply.
Take a few steps of trot, then ask him to "whoa," give him his treat and "walk-on." It won't take but a few lessons before he
begins to understand the verbal commands. You just need to take it slowly enough and be consistent enough so that he has the
opportunity to understand. Don't get in a hurry, or you will find yourself in a sea of confusion!
MORE TRAINING AND RIDING HINTS
AND CHOOSING THE RIGHT DONKEY
By Donna Quick
Most people are surprised to learn that donkeys are now being bred in the 14 to 15 hh range, with some animals
reaching 16 hh. This means that donkeys can definitely be a practical alternative to a horse or mule as a saddle animal.
Donkeys are much less likely than a horse or mule to buck, rear, shy or bolt, which makes them a good choice for
beginning, senior, or disabled riders. And they’re ideal for people who have limited time to ride. Donkeys won’t become hard
to handle if they’re ridden infrequently. There’s no need to dread that first ride in the spring – your donkey will act as if you
climbed off just yesterday.
Mammoth donkeys are sometimes more sluggish and less co-operative than Large Standards. If you’re just interested
in trail riding, this may not be a problem. If you’d like to try showing, including gymkhana and fun classes, a Large Standard
might be a better choice. They’re usually more willing to hold a lope for longer periods and move a little faster when required.
However, some smaller donkeys have a definite “pony personality” and like to see how much they can get away with.
Even though donkeys have the reputation for being very sure-footed, some riders report stumbling, even to the knees,
while loping. This usually happens to donkeys with large, heavy heads and smaller hooves, especially if they haven’t been
ridden too often. They can sometimes carry too much weight on the forehand. Building up strength in the hindquarters
through stops and starts and hill climbing can help, as well as making sure you’re not leaning forward while travelling at speed.
To be on the safe side, lope only on smooth surfaces.
Carl and Sybil Sewell have raised top-quality large donkeys for almost 40 years at Windy Ridge Farm near Leslieville,
AB. According to Sybil, “A donkey doesn’t have to be 16 hh to be a viable alternative to the horse. We have, out
of research and experience, avoided extremes of height and have found that the most athletic animals have fallen into
the 14 or 15 hh range.” Even a 13 hh donkey with good conformation can be a suitable mount for a small adult, but Sybil
warns that donkeys need sufficient bone and substance or they will beak down sooner or later. “I don’t think there’s anything
worse than a 14 hh plus donkey with a Mammoth-sized head and body fitted onto spindly, fine-boned legs, unless it is to see
same under saddle ridden by an overweight rider.”
Saddle-broke donkeys are fairly difficult to find, but anyone with basic riding skills should be able to start their own
animal. Training a donkey can be more challenging than training a horse in some respects. In other ways, donkey training is
easier and less stressful. Many people report just saddling up and climbing on for the first time with no problems. But it’s still
advisable to go through the steps outlined in Meredith Hodges’ training articles. Donkeys are slower to mature than horses and
are not ready for riding until age 4.
Avoid accepting a free donkey or rescuing one from an auction unless you have a good deal of equine experience.
Free donkeys often come with this kind of information: “Nobody’s ever done very much with her, and she hasn’t had her
hooves trimmed for a while.” Translation: She’s isn’t even halter broke, and we can’t find a farrier who will come back a
second time.”
Mature donkeys with little or no handling can be just as wild as the BLM burros rounded up in the U.S. It can take a
lot more than offering treats to catch a neglected donkey. Picking up feet can be a long and hazardous process. It may be
necessary to use a glove stuffed with padding mounted on a broomstick to start touching the legs. Chances are your free or
rescued donkey will have badly overgrown hooves. Even after these have been trimmed into shape, tendons and ligaments
may have become stretched out of shape and the donkey will never be sound for weight-bearing work. And you may find it
impossible to locate a farrier once you admit that your donkey isn’t good with her feet.
It’s money well spent to buy a well-socialized donkey from a breeder or owner who can demonstrate that his donkey
can be caught, will lead, will pick up its feet without a fight, and doesn’t shy away from being touched.
Once you begin riding, if your donkey outright refuses to do something, sharper spurs are never the answer. It’s up to
the rider to somehow trick the donkey into thinking the required movement is in his own best interest. Donkeys have a low
tolerance for repetitious ring work, and these sessions should be limited to half an hour or less. Donkeys really can’t see any
reason to go into a lope unless they’re playing tag with their pasture buddies or racing to the feeder. However, loping can
usually be initiated by following behind another cantering equine, and eventually your donkey will be willing to lope on his
own. They sometimes like to lope with their head down and kick out with their back legs, making you think they’re going to
start bucking. Donkeys often run this way when out in pasture, but if you gently pull his head up each time, he’ll eventually
stop doing this.
It’s harder to fine-tune a donkey than a horse or mule. Rollbacks, sidepassing, backing and similar movements aren’t
on a donkey’s want-to-do list, although all animals should at least be schooled to back and move their hindquarters over.
(Refer to Meredith Hodges’ articles.) They usually respond well to voice and leg aids. (Apply leg pressure slightly behind the
cinch on the side opposite the direction you want to turn.) Neck-reining can be a struggle unless the donkey had planned to
turn in that direction anyway. These long-eared equines are particularly hesitant to cross water or struggle through a bog. They
may require a tow job for the first few crossings, but eventually they overcome their fear, especially if they’re part of a group.
Donkeys have been described as “the pet you can ride.” On the other hand, they’re often less willing than horses to
unquestionably follow their rider’s orders. They usually put their own comfort and safety first. Although many people insist
that donkeys aren’t stubborn, just careful, don’t be surprised to encounter some behaviour that will make you question this
statement. Here are two personal examples.
One evening when he was home alone, my husband Ken had completed 20 minutes or so in the riding ring and was
heading for the hitching post where we unsaddle. Halfway across the ring, his Mammoth jennet stopped and wouldn’t go any
farther, despite Ken’s spurs and crop. He wasn’t able to pull her off balance enough with the reins to get her feet moving,
thanks to donkeys’ strong, limber necks. Ken decided to wait it out and see how long she would stand there. It was over 2
hours before she finally started moving forward again!
Right from the start, my Large Standard gelding would try to head for the hitching post whenever he was circling our
ring. There was no way I could straighten him out in the direction we were going. However, if I just reversed, he would
change direction with the lightest pull on the reins and continue circling. He continued to do this for the first four or five years
I rode him, even though he was NEVER allowed to actually get to the hitching post. Finally one year he just suddenly stopped
trying and never did it again. About the same time, he gave up trying to turn around and go home when I was out riding by
myself.
Unfortunately, finding a saddle or even a bridle to fit your donkey can be a long process of trial and error. Because of
their lack of withers, a crupper or breeching is necessary. It’s also a good idea to use a thin Tacky Too pad under your main
saddle pad. These are made in a waffle pattern from a soft, rubbery material and really help a saddle stay in place. You can
even make your own by sewing anti-slip carpet underpad to a felt pad.
It’s worthwhile to take extra time and care while saddling and mounting. Make sure your saddle is in exactly the right
spot, and have a helper hold the saddle in position while you’re tightening the cinch so it isn’t pulled toward you. Even if your
donkey is short, you should use a mounting block because it’s so easy for the saddle to slip on a round donkey back. A tool box
with a handle from a hardware store is excellent for this and can also hold your brushes, hoof picks, etc. If possible, have
someone apply weight to the stirrup on the off-side as you mount. By following these steps, in 15 years of donkey riding
we’ve never had a saddle slip.
Generally speaking, if you want absolute obedience, the ability to excel in gymkhana events or to lope a pattern,
donkeys may not be for you. On the other hand, if you just want to compete against other donkeys, take on the challenge of
working with a completely different equine species, or simply enjoy a stress-free trail ride, a saddle donkey may be just what
you’re looking for.
PROTECTING LIVESTOCK WITH GUARD DONKEYS
Alberta Agriculture, Food and Rural Development
Farmers are increasingly turning to non-lethal techniques for predator management including electric fencing, electronic guards
and guardian animals.
In Alberta, guard donkeys have become popular as protectors of sheep and cattle and perform very well under certain
conditions.
Advantages of guard donkeys
 Guard donkeys are more accepted by the public for livestock protection than poisons.
 Under certain conditions, they provide around-the-clock protection against predators
and other pasture intruders.
 Guard donkeys cost less to purchase and maintain than other guardian animals.
 Donkeys are compatible with other livestock and share similar requirements for feed,
water and shelter. They eat grass and hay and do not require special feed.
 Donkeys are well-suited to most traditional methods of predation damage control and
can be used in an integrated predation management program. For example, snares
and poison bait can be used without special precautions to protect the donkey.
How guard donkeys work
Donkeys probably do not deliberately protect livestock. Many donkeys dislike and are aggressive towards dogs, coyotes and
foxes and provide indirect protection for domestic animals. Donkeys have exceptional hearing, a keen nose and excellent
vision. They use these senses to detect intruders. They bray, bare their teeth, chase, and attempt to kick and bite dogs and
coyotes. Some donkeys will also chase deer, bears, strange livestock, humans and other intruders in a similar fashion.
Donkeys do not intentionally patrol the pasture looking for intruders. They investigate disturbances within the herd or flock
and will pursue predators or intruders if they detect them.
They are most successful in protecting livestock in small and level pastures, where the donkey can see all or most of the area
from one location.
In addition to the aggressive behavior of the donkeys, the presence of a large animal with smaller livestock may be sufficient to
cause some coyotes, dogs and other predators to avoid the area.
Selecting a guard donkey
Consistent and successful guard donkey performance depends on appropriate animal selection, proper training and realistic
expectations. Guard donkeys have limitations to their physical and protective capabilities.
A guard donkey is a working animal so it must be sound, healthy and free from any conformational defects. It must be
reasonably friendly towards people and easy to handle.
Attributes that contribute to effective guard donkey performance are as follows:
1. Select a donkey from “standard” stock, 44” to 50” (11 to 12.5 hh) at the shoulder. For cattle, the donkey should be a little
taller, up to 54” (13.5hh). Do not use small or miniature donkeys or slow, clumsy animals.
2. Not all donkeys are effective guard animals. If one does not work, try another. It is worth the effort even if you have to try
several animals. Donkeys live for 30 or more years, so an effective guard donkey will provide protection for many years.
Acquire a donkey that is likely to have potential to be a guard animal. The donkey should have some exposure to sheep or
other livestock it is to protect. Get a guarantee or replacement clause on the bill of sale if you buy from a guard donkey
breeder.
3. Use only females (jennies) or gelding. So not use a mature intact male (jack or stallion) unless it has been raised with
stock. Some jack donkeys may attack smaller animals including dogs, coyotes, calves and lambs. For the same reason,
unsettled jennies, with or without foals, may be aggressive during estrus and could injure young stock.
Training guard donkeys
Halter break the donkey to lead. Train the donkey to lift its feet for veterinary and farrier work and to lead and unload in a
stock trailer or truck.
Guard donkeys may need several weeks to adjust to livestock, so introduce them to stock well before predation is likely to
occur.
Keep young donkeys with goat, sheep or cattle after the donkey is weaned. Do no allow guard donkeys to run with other
donkeys or horses. In this way the young donkey will think it is part of the flock or herd. Ideally, the donkey should be born in
the flock or herd and its dam should be taken away at weaning to let the young animal grow up with the stock.
Place a new donkey on the other side of a common fence line with livestock. This gives the
donkey and the livestock an opportunity to safely get to know one another.
A week to ten days following this socialization period, lead the donkey around the cattle or
sheep where they can smell and touch each other. Then tether the donkey inside the pen
with the stock and feed and groom it there for about a week. By this time both will have
accepted each other. Allow the donkey to run loose in the pen or pasture and soon the stock
will seek the donkey out in times of danger.
Feed the donkey with the stock so it feels like a member of the flock or herd. If stock are
fed from troughs, feed the donkey first from a separate feeder or bowl so the livestock can
eat unhindered. Always feed the guard donkey something every time you feed the stock.
Keep all dogs away from donkeys and do not test the donkey by teasing it with a dog. Do not allow farm dogs to become
friendly with the donkey. Avoid or limit the use of stockdogs around donkeys.
If a donkey is aggressive towards or fears stock (or vice-versa) remove it immediately.
Using guard donkeys
Donkeys are most effective in small, open, level pastures where the stock tend to band together. The maximum number of
livestock that can be guarded by a donkey is unknown, but is probably no more than 200 animals. Donkeys will probably be of
little use on rolling terrain or rangeland covered with heavy bush where stock scatter widely.
Use only one donkey at a time with livestock. This is important in larger pastures because donkeys may pal up and wander
away from the stock.
There is one exception to the single donkey rule; a jenny with an unweaned foal tends to be much more protective than other
donkeys. A mother with a foal will give you an extra advantage because young donkeys will be raised with livestock and
trained for you use or sale as a trained guard donkey.
When more than one donkey is needed to guard a very large area or large flock or herd, use jennies with unweaned foals only.
Some producers are successful with two geldings, but this is rare.
Fences must be in good repair because donkeys may escape through holes when wires are broken or missing.
Remove the donkey during lambing or calving, particularly in confinement operations, as a precaution against accidents or
intentional injury or disruption of the mother-newborn bond. Place the donkey in the flock when the young animals are ready
to go to pasture.
Move their feet!
By Jerry Tindell
www.jerrytindell.com
“Move their feet”, is not a training concept put together by all equine trainers or widely used by
them. Having a true understanding of what “Move their feet “means can be difficult for students
who typically ride only through their hands.
Jerry Tindell has worked around horses, donkeys and mules his entire life, but early in his career he
began to think the feet were the most important key to training stock. A top notch farrier, Jerry
evaluated his stocks movement through their feet, and made mental notes how to correct the hooves
to help gain fluid movement. As his passion grew to train and help owners so did the belief that
everything started with the feet.
In the real world movement is vital to prey animals. They have to have the ability to flee whether it’s
for the pecking order of the herd or a predator. The movement is quick, precise, and decisive; little
thought is given to the movement other than to flee. As a natural horse trainer Jerry had studied the
movement of a horse and understood the how, when and where horses move their feet. To work with
the mind of the horse, mule or donkey, you have to listen to what the feet are telling you.
The concept of “Move their feet,” begins by observing the two kinds of movement; Subtle, soft, and
safe movement or fast, stiff and defensive. Look at the cadence of the animal and the components
of their foot falls. Basic movements such as a walk (four beat gait), trot (two beat gait) and lope
(three beat gait) allow movement for performance. Check for soundness, how they use their feet as
they work through these transitions, rate the speed and how their feet hit the ground. Are the feet
heavy and pounding or are footfalls subtle and light? Powering out of control or brace identifies fear
or self-preservation in the donkey; with fear the mind gets troubled. The donkey’s body becomes
stiff, hindquarters become very powerful; feet are locked and loaded as concern builds for the fight or
flight response. A secure donkey’s head is down with natural expressions that are soft and relaxed.
Feet are light bringing the body into a correct position, allowing the mind to be quiet.
Rarely do we think of the feet as we ride or drive. It is very difficult to learn to focus on each moving
part and what the movements represent in small incremental parts. The ability to lift one foot or
square up all four feet begins when we become aware of the feet. As the “Move their feet”
concept begins to make sense, keep in mind the following training exercises:
Allow movement: We cannot succeed if we are holding the face and body.
Build on the movement: Be aware of how your posture affects the donkey’s movement, for
example leaning your body puts weight on the foot you want to be picked up softly.
Build cadence and rhythm last: Just moving the feet does not make the change you want;
change comes when you arrange the feet correctly for the body to follow. When you can arrange the
feet for soft body control, then you can settle the mind when troubled. If the donkey can hold
together through support, the fear will dissipate more each time.
“It’s not the face running off, it’s the feet!”
Jerry Tindell's childhood links him to a time when mules and horses were a vital part of the American story. The 8th child of a
Missouri timber man, Jerry grew up watching his father work with both draft horses and mules to support the family by
skidding logs. That connection shaped his life, and he has followed his love and respect for animals to build a successful career
which now focuses on training both equines and humans.
Coming to California in 1971, Jerry worked as a farrier with his older brother Duke. This led to working with law enforcement
units, first as a farrier and later as a trainer, work he continues today. Currently his schedule is filled with clinics throughout
California, Nevada and Alberta. A regular at Bishop Mule Days and Back Country Horsemen events, his clinics focus on
learning to support the animal in making the right choices. Jerry's methods open a window into a logical, humane, and effective
method of increasing the communication between riders and their mounts. Jerry has several DVD’S and articles on training.
You can reach him through his website at www.jerrytindell.com
This booklet is put together and sponsored by the Alberta Donkey and Mule Club. Most photos are of
club members. We hope you enjoy the information that we have compiled within.
For many more articles on donkeys, mules, and the A.D.M.C., visit the club website at
www.albertadonkeyandmule.com.
Other associations:
Canadian Donkey and Mule Association, www.donkeyandmule.com.
Publishes quarterly newsmagazine
American Donkey and Mule Society, www.lovelongears.com.
Publishes large newsmagazine, The Brayer, six times a year.
First Mainland Donkey & Mule Club (BC)
www.firstmainlanddonkeyandmuleclub.webs.net
ALBERTA DONKEY AND MULE CLUB
For the love of Longears!!