The most unique Korean palace in harmony with

The most unique Korean palace in harmony with the landscape
Changdeokgung was built as a secondary palace of the Joseon Dynasty in 1405, during King
Taejong’s reign. Although it was originally secondary to Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung was
served as the residence for many kings and later it became the main palace. After all palaces in
Seoul were destroyed during the Japanese invasion (1592-1598), Gyeongbokgung had been left
in ruins. Changdeokgung, however, was reconstructed in 1610 and served as the main palace for
about 270 years, until Gyeongbokgung was finally rebuilt in 1868.
Un l i ke Gyeongbokgung, where major bu i ld i ngs a re a r ra nged a long a ma i n a x is ,
Changdeokg ung is laid out in harmony w it h t he area’s topography: Changdeokg ung was
constructed on t he base of a mountain. Buildings were positioned natura l ly, ta k ing into
consideration the geographical features of the slope. Even though some parts of the palace was
destroyed under the Japanese occupation from 1910 to 1945. Restoration of the palace was begun
in 1991, and the project still continues today. Changdeokgung is a unique case in the history of
palace architecture in East Asia, as it retains remarkable asymmetric beauty in terms of layout,
a nd is exceptiona l for t he way in which t he bui ldings a re integrated into ha rmony w it h
natural setting. Thus, the palace was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997.
Historical background to establishment of Changdeokgung Why did King Taejong, the third Joseon
monarch, establish an additional royal palace when Gyeongbokgung had already been built? Taejong
explained that the second palace was needed because the topography of Gyeongbokgung was not auspicious
enough, according to the principles of geomancy. It is likely, however, that the king had ulterior motives.
Taejong seized the throne after having assassinating his half brothers and Jeong Do-jeon, the powerful Merit
Subject .Afterward, he was very reluctant to live in Gyeongbokgung, the scene of the bloodbath.
Map of East Palace Designated as National Treasure No.249, this huge
map (576 x 273 cm) shows the entire premises of Changdeokgung and
Changgyeonggung. Drawn in color on silk using both Eastern and Western
painting techniques, this map is presumed to have been made sometime
between 1826 and 1830. The buildings, bridges, walls, and even rocks are
depicted, and building names are also shown. Extremely valuable for use
in research and restoration efforts, this map provides an excellent glimpse
into the most glorious days of the Joseon Dynasty.
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1
Donhwamun Area
敦化門
Main Gate of Changdeokgung, built with imposing dignity
Donhwamun was built in 1412 during King Taejong’s reign. Donhwamun has a twostory, pavilion-type wooden structure, and is the largest of all palace gates. In front
of the gate there once was a broad, raised stone terrace giving the gate an imposing
dignity. During royal ceremonies the king would pass through Donhwamun while
his attendants used Geumhomun to the west. A bell and a drum were used to be
hung on the second f loor of Donhwamun; the bell was rung to signal the beginning
of curfew, and the drum was struck to signal the end. Donhwamun was burned down
during the Japanese invasion in 1592 and was restored in 1609. It is designated as a
Treasure No. 383.
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Palaces of the Joseon Dynasty were built so that one could meet an auspicious stream.
This stream was called ‘Geumcheon(禁川)’ because it defined the distinction between
the inside and outside the palace. The stream of this palace flows from north to
south and comes out to the east of palace.
In 1411, the bridge was built over this stream and it was called ‘Geumcheongyo(錦川橋,
bridge over the beautiful and silky stream)’. This bridge is known as the oldest stone
bridge remaining in Seoul and designated as a Treasure No. 1762 in 2012.
Where the king addressed his subjects After the suppression of the revolt of 1728, the leader of the revolt
was presented to the king on the second floor of Donhwamun. For this event, the king invited his elder subjects
to Donhwamun and proclaimed factional strife to be the cause of the revolt but that those involved would not
be punished. As shown on this occasion, the open area in front of Donhwamun provided a venue for the king to
deliver public announcements.
Geumcheongyo, the oldest structure in the palace Geumcheongyo Bridge leads to Jinseonmun Gate.
In 1402, King Taejong installed a drum called Sinmungo on this gate. In theory, it could be stuck by anyone
wanting to file a petition to redress grievances. For most citizens, however, securing permission to strike
Sinmungo was an arduous affair. Approvals were needed from the local magistrate, the governor, and the
inspector general before one could pass through the main gate of Changdeokgung to reach the drum. For this
reason, some people opted to block the royal procession rather than try to obtain permission to strike the
drum, creating an ongoing nuisance for the royal court.
Donhwamun
Geumcheongyo
Jinseonmun
Sinmungo, a hard-to-reach drum King Taejong installed a petitioner’s drum at Jinseonmun Gate in 1402 to
give commoners a chance to voice their grievances. This system of appealing directly to the king existed in
name only through the reigns of many kings before it was re-established in 1771 by King Yeongjo.
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2
Injeongjeon Area
仁政殿
Setting for major ceremonies
Injeongjeon is the throne hall of Changdeokgung. Major state affairs, including the
coronation of a new king and reception of foreign envoys, took place here. Ceremonies
were held in the courtyard; to the rear, a terraced garden rose up toward Maebong
Peak. From the outside, Injeongjeon appears to have two stories, but inside it is
a single space with a high, beautifully adorned ceiling. The f loor of the hall was
originally covered with blocks of baked clay, but today it is covered with wooden
f loorboards. Along with the lighting, curtains, and glass windows, the f loor was
modified to a Western style in 1908. The colonnaded structure forming the outer
courtyard was used for storage and as guard posts.
The colonnaded structure enclosing the inner courtyard was originally built in 1405,
when Changdeokgung was founded. It was rebuilt three times, first in 1418, again in
1610 after being burned down during the Japanese invasion in 1592, and a third time in 1804 after
being destroyed by fire a year earlier. Injeongjeon is designated as a National Treasure No. 225.
Bak Ja-cheong, a eunuch who was promoted to minister
Bak Ja-cheong was an eunuch of the Gor yeo
Dynasty, the previous dynasty of Joseon. His faithful guarding of the palace drew the admiration of Taejo,
founder of the Joseon Dynasty. In recognition, Taejo made Bak part of the royal retinue and later named him
to supervise the construction of Changdeokgung. His responsibilities expanded beyond the palace walls to
the construction of royal tombs and other facilities. His fine work on many construction projects earned him
a promotion to minister of public works.
Injeongjeon
Jinseonmun
Injeongmun
Sukjangmun
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3
Seonjeongjeon Area
宣政殿
Where the king handled routine state affairs
Here the king worked at his convenience to discuss routine state affairs with high
ranking officials. In light of the topography it was built to the east of the throne hall.
Assemblies included daily morning meetings with ministers, reports on state affairs,
and state seminars. Destroyed by the fire during the Japanese invasion in 1592 and
the Coup in 1623, Seonjeongjeon was rebuilt in 1647. A long, narrow colonnaded
structure surrounding the hall served as secretarial offices and provided storage.
This is the only building in Changdeokgung with a blue-tiled roof.
As Huijeongdang to its rear showed increasing use of t he k ing's work, Seonjeongjeon was used to house the ancestral tablets of deceased kings and queens.
The covered corridor provides the only remaining evidence of Seonjeongjeon
Hall’s function as a royal shrine. Seonjeongjeon is designated as a Treasure No. 814.
Party in honor of elders held in Seonjeongjeon Seonjeongjeon was originally a hall for the king, but it was
sometimes used by queens. During the reign of King Seongjong (1469-1494), Queen Gonghye threw parties
here to honor elders and encourage the customs of respecting one’s elders. Such a party was held each September for those older than 80. Queen Jeonghyeon raised silkworms here. Historians consider the queen’s use
of Seonjeongjeon to have been misguided.
Seonjeongjeon
Colonnaded passage
Seonjeongmun
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4
Huijeongdang
熙政堂
The King’s bed chamber that became his workplace
If Injeongjeon was the symbolic main hall, then Huijeongdang was used as the actual
main hall of Changdeokgung, where the king spent most of his time. The king’s
office, Seonjeongjeon, was not large enough for conducting routine state affairs. As a
result, Huijeongdang, which originally was the king’s bed chamber, came to serve as
his workplace. Huijeongdang was destroyed by fire in 1917, and the existing building
was rebuilt with materials taken from Gangnyeongjeon, the king’s residence at
Gyeongbokgung. The original Huijeongdang depicted on the Map of the East Palace
was an elegant building with a raised f loor set on stone columns, and a pond in the
courtyard. The reconstructed Huijeongdang is entirely different from the original.
The interior is outfitted with western features such as wooden f loorboards and
carpets, glass windows, and chandeliers. Huijeongdang is designated as a Treasure No. 815.
Huijeongdang
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5
Daejojeon Area
大造殿
Scene of tragic history
The residence of the queen, Daejojeon was originally surrounded by many secondary
buildings, including Heungbok heon, which was witness to a tragic moment in
history. It was the place where the last cabinet meeting of the dynasty was held
to deliberate over Japan’s annexation of Joseon. Destroyed by fire in 1917, it was
rebuilt with materials taken from Gyeongbokgung. Secondary buildings on either
side of Daejojeon, and Gyeonghungak behind it, are connected by long colonnaded
corridors. These corridors are perhaps the only sections to show the original,
complex structure of the palace. The last king’s and queen’s bed chambers are still
remaining in this Daejojeon building. Daejojeon is designated as a Treasure No. 816.
Gyeonghungak
Daejojeon
Heungbokjeon
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6
Seongjeonggak Area
誠正閣
The eastern part of the place, where we can glimpse into the daily life of the crown prince
On t he w ide road leading to t he Secret Garden, bet ween Seong jeongga k a nd
Nakseonjae, used to stand Junghuidang. This area was the crown prince’s residence,
and was once home to many buildings. Junghuidang was removed in 1891, and the
buildings that remain today are Samsamwa, a hexagonal pavilion; Chilbunseo; and
Seunghwaru. All three were once connected by corridors and used as a library and
for storing books. Originally the crown prince’s study, Seongjeonggak was used as
a royal hospital during the Japanese occupation. Behind Seongjeonggak is a small building where the king would read and hold audiences.
Samsamwa
Seongjeonggak
Chilbunseo
Seunghwaru
Junghuidang site
Life of the Crown Prince A prince could not be proclaimed the crown
prince before the age of four because the infant mortality rate was too
high. At the age of ten, the crown prince had a coming-of-age ceremony,
followed soon after by a wedding ceremony. Sigangwon was the state
organ responsible for educating the crown prince, who received training and lessons three times a day. In between reading and studying
classical literature, he also received military training such as archery
and horseback riding. This painting depicts Crown Prince Hyomyeong,
son of King Sunjo, entering the Confucian Academy at the age of Eight.
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7
Gwolnaegaksa
闕內各司
The site for government offices
While many government offices were located outside the palace walls, some offices were built on the palace grounds and were collectively known as Gwolnaegaksa.
In an area west of Injeongjeon, Naeuiwon (Royal infirmary), Hongmungwan (Office
of Special Advisers), and Geomseocheong (Publication Office) were located to the
east of Geumcheon Stream, and Gyujanggak (Royal Library) and Bongmodang (Hall
of Upholding the Policies of Former Kings) were to the west. Because so many of the
king’s support offices were concentrated in such a small area, Gwolnaegaksa had a
labyrinthine feel. During the Japanese occupation, Gyujanggak was vastly simplified
and its collection moved to the library of today’s Seoul National University. All the
buildings in this area were eventually destroyed during the Japanese occupation, and
their sites paved over by roads. The existing buildings were restored between 2000 to
2004.
Naeuiwon
Gyujanggak
Geomseocheong
Hongmungwan
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8
Old Seonwonjeon Site
璿源殿
The place where royal ancestral rites were performed
Seonwonjeon refers to t he roya l shrine where por traits of former k ings were
enshrined and ancestral rites were performed. In 1656, Gyeonghwadang (residence
of Taejo, founder of Joseon, before he acceded to the throne) was moved from
Gyeongbokgung to Changdeokgung to serve as the royal shrine. In 1921, during the
Japanese occupation, a new royal shrine named Seonwonjeon was built deep in the
garden of Changdeokgung, and all ancestral rites were subsequently performed
there. Not surprisingly, this area was left to fall into ruin, and all of the auxiliary
buildings were removed. The area was restored in 2005. To the right and left of
Seonwonjeon, a number of buildings for ritual ceremonies were built. Yangjidang
was where the king stayed the night before the ancestral ceremony. Uipunggak, an
area to the rear of Seonwonjeon for storing ritual vessels and equipment, was built
during the Japanese occupation. Old Seonwonjeon is designated as a Treasure No. 817.
Uipunggak
Seonwonjeon
Yangjidang
Naechaldang
Jinseolcheong
Ancestral rites of the royal family According to Confucian principles, the death of a human is regarded as
the separation of body and soul. When a king or queen died, the body was kept in a coffin and an ancestral
tablet was provided to house the spirit. After five months in the coffin hall, the coffin was buried in the royal
tomb. The ancestral tablet was kept in the spirit hall within the palace for three years, after which it was
moved to Jongmyo, the royal shrine.
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9
Nakseonjae Complex
樂善齋
The place that evinces the simple tastes of King Heonjong
From the left, the buildings here are Nakseonjae, Seokbokheon and Sugangjae.
Originally, the Donggung, which is the quarters of the crown prince, was on this
site. Nakseonjae was built as the king’s quarters in the reign of King Heonjong, in
1847. It was a very personal space built so that King Heonjong could relax and read.
Though it was part of the palace, King Heonjong refrained from using colorful paint
decorations, Dancheong. Meanwhile, Nakseonjae was used until the most recent
days. Bangja Lee, who was the wife of the last crown prince lived here until 1989.
Seokbokheon was constructed in 1848. It was built for the Royal Lady Gyeongbin
who was chosen in order to give King Heonjong’s desired heir. Sugangjae was first
built in 1785, later renovated in 1848 and turned into the quarters of Queen Sunwon,
the grandmother of King Heonjong. Nakseonjae was originally enclosed by lines
of buildings and courtyard walls, but they were removed during the Japanese
occupation. In 1996 this area was restored to its original style. And it was designated
as a Treasure No. 1764 in 2012.
Elegant Garden of Nakseonjae
A beautiful garden with three pavilions was made in the back of the Nakseonjae complex.
Chwiunjeon
Hanjeongdang
Sangrangjeong
Nakseonjae
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Chwiunjeong
Seokbokheon
Sugangjae
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Secret Garden of Changdeokgung
昌德宮 後苑
The forbidden place for the recreational area and retreat for the royal family
With palace architectures, a beautiful rear garden, also known as the Secret Garden,
was created in Changdeokgung. Sometimes the garden was ruined with the building’s
area in history, but reconstruction work was achieved by several monarchs. Today,
behind of buildings’ area, the beautiful pavilions and ponds are still existing in
Changdeokgung. This garden presents an unusually exquisite design. It is adapted to
the topography and contains small hills and natural forests. The natural setting was
accentuated by keeping artificial landscape to the minimum.
In t his Secret Garden, t here are some beautif u l ponds li ke Buyongji,
Aeryeonji and Gwallamji. Small but beautiful Ongnyucheon Stream runs through
the northern part of the garden. New Seonwonjeon, set in the deep woods in the
western part of the garden, is a sacred place with facilities for ancestral rites.
The Secret Garden, t he secluded rear garden of t he pa lace, was used
for various purposes. It ser ved as a place for composing poetr y, a setting for
contemplation, a venue for banquets, and as an archery range. The royal family
enjoyed fishing and boating on the pond and fireworks was sometimes displayed
here. The king and queen of the Joseon Dynasty also engaged farming and raised
silkworms in this garden.
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10
Buyongji and Juhamnu
芙蓉池・宙合樓
Beautiful buildings used for study and retreats
This area is in the heart of the Secret Garden. It was a relatively open place used for
retreats as well as study. A number of buildings were built around Buyongji, a rectangular pond. The royal libraries of Gyujanggak and Seohyanggak also stood in this
area. State exams were conducted in front of Yeonghwadang Pavilion on special occasions, in the presence of the king. Buyongjeong Pavilion which seems to be a loctus
flower in bloom on the pond is designated as a Treasure No. 1763 in 2012.
Juhamnu Pavilion stands on the high ground and commands a fine view of pond.
It was designated as a Treasure No. 1769 in 2012. Though each of these structures
is unique, together they form an exquisite complex in harmony with the natural
surroundings.
Seohyangg
Sajeonggibigak
Buyongjeong
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Juhamnu
Gyujanggak
Cheonseokjeong
Seohyanggak
Eosumun
Yeonghwadang
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11
Aeryeonji and Uiduhap
愛蓮池・倚斗閤
Scenery that reminds us of the wise and benevolent king
King Sukjong, the 19th king of the Joseon Dynasty, was said to have created an islet
topped by a pavilion in the middle of the pond in 1692. The island disappeared, but
the pavilion remains on the northern end of the pond. Sukjong named the pond
‘Aeryeon,’ meaning ‘loving the lotus f lowers.’ The king once said, “I love the lotus
because it blooms with such clean and beautiful flowers, however dirty the water may
be, symbolizing the virtue of a true gentleman.” In 1827, Crown Prince Hyomyeong
built a number of structures to the west of Aeryeonji, including Uiduhap Pavilion,
and erected a fence around this area. Uiduhap, which bears the sign ‘Gioheon’ at
present, is a modest study. Unlike most traditional Korean structures, it was not
adorned with various colors named “Dancheong”. Next to it is Ungyeonggeo. It is
the smallest building in the palace.
Uiduhap
Bullomun
Aeryeonjeong
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12
YeonGyeongDang
演慶堂
Audience hall modeled after a typical literati house
Crown Prince Hyomyeong constructed YeonGyeongDang in about 1828 to hold the
Jinjakrye ceremony to celebrate the 40th birthday of his mother, and to present a
title for his father, King Sunjo, the 23rd king of Joseon. The men’s and women’s
quarters are separated, but inside they are connected, just like in a typical Joseon
nobleman house. Unique styles of side walls and sun blinds under the copper-plated
roof create a distinctive atmosphere Seonhyangjae, a study. Nongsujeong, situated
on a high spot in the garden, bears a roof that resembles a hawk spreading its wings.
Behind the women’s quarters is a kitchen; since the reign of Gojong, the 26th king
of the Joseon Dynasty, YeonGyeongDang served as a venue to receive foreign envoys
and throw parties with political overtones. It is designated as a Treasure No.1770 in 2012.
Nongsujeong
YeonGyeongDang
Seonhyangjae
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13
Jondeokjeong Area
尊德亭
Pavilions of various shapes
This area is believed to have been the last to be added on to the Secret Garden.
Originally, there were five small round and rectangular ponds. During the Japanese
occupation, three of them were transformed into one curved pond, which is called
Gwallamji. The other two ponds were also put together, then one pond, called
Jondeokji, was made. Pavilions of various shapes were built here. Jondeokjeong, a
hexagonal pavilion with a double layered roof, and Gwallamjeong with a fanshaped
roof were built on the brim of the pond. On the hill to the west stands Pyeomusa.
Pyeomusa was originally built in a ‘ㄱ’ layout and an auxiliary house, but nowadays
it is a plain-looking building with no auxiliary structure. Deep in the woods is Seungjaejeong, a smart-looking pavilion with a square roof. Of all these, Jondeokjeong, built
in 1644, is the oldest.
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Jondeokjeong The double layered roof of Jondeokjeong was made
by setting the upper roof into the eaves of the lower roof. Instead
of supporting the outer roof with one large column, three columns
were erected. In the center of the ceiling are twin painted dragons
playing with Cintamani, a symbol of upright royal authority.
Seungjaejeong
Pyeomusa
Jondeokjeong
Gwallamjeong
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14
Ongnyucheon Area
玉流川
Beautiful scenery from any angle of view
The brook f lowing through the deep valley north to the Secret Garden of Changdeokgung is called Ongnyucheon. In 1636, during the reign of King Injo, the 16th
king of the Joseon Dynasty, a U-shaped groove was carved on a large flat rock known
as Soyoam and filled with water. Sometimes the king and his officials set af loat
their wine cups on the water while they wrote poetry. Five pavilions, Soyojeong,
Taegeukjeong, Cheonguijeong, Nongsanjeong and Chwihanjeong, are located around
Soyoam. Among these five pavilions, Cheonguijeong in particular draws attention
because it is the only thatch-roofed pavilion found in the palace today.
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Poetry composition and floating wine cups In A.D. 353, forty one notable Chinese scholars including Wang Xizhi, the esteemed calligrapher,
gathered at a pavilion in Shaoxing. They held parties there during which
they composed poetry while sending wine cups afloat on the waters.
When a wine cup was sent to a specific person, the recipient had to
drink the wine from the cup then compose an impromptu poem and recite it. If the person could not recite a poem, he had to drink three cups
of wine as punishment. This type of party soon became widely popular
among members of high society.
Taegeukjeong
Nongsanjeong
Cheonguijeong
Soyojeong
Soyoam Rock
Chwihanjeong
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15
New Seonwonjeon Area
新璿源殿
Where portraits of deceased kings were enshrined
Daebodan Altar was originally set up here to honor the emperor of Chinese Ming
Dynasty, who sent troops to support Joseon during the Japanese invasion of 1592. In
1921, the Japanese government removed Daebodan and replaced the new Seonwonjeon Shrine in its place, into which they moved the kings’ portraits enshrined at the
original Seonwonjeon. Uihyojeon, the annex attached to the new shrine, was built
with materials taken from Mungyeongjeon Hall at Gyeongbokgung.
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Pavilions in the New Seonwonjeon area
The grounds of new Seonwonjeon are home to t wo pavilions:
Mongdapjeong and Gwaegungjeong. Originally, this area did not belong to the garden of Changdeokgung
Palace. A military camp once operated northwest of the garden, and Mongdapjeong was built in 1759 as
a tower for the camp. As befits a pavilion in a military camp, Mongdapjeong is large and looks imposing.
Gwaegungjeong on the north hill commanded a view of the camp’s archery field. ‘Gwaegung’ means ‘to
draw a bow,’ indicating that the pavilion was a place from which archery practice was observed.
New Seonwonjeon
Gwaegungjeong
Uihyojeon
Mongdapjeong
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Published by Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea
· 2011