04/17/14 - Saks Incorporated

Transcription

SOFTLINES
TECHNICAL MANUAL
2014
1|P a g e
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction
4
1 Construction Quality Standards
6
2 Children’s Safety Standards
16
3 Flammability and Chemical Regulatory Requirements
44
46
50
Canada
USA
4 Care Instructions and Labeling
Fur Policy
Textile Labeling
Care Instructions
5 Stuffed Articles and Upholstery Labeling
Hudson’s Bay Company (Canada )
Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH(US)
6 Laboratory Testing
Colour Approval
Testing Program
Packages and Prices
56
58
59
60
68
70
74
76
78
79
82
7 Garment Inspection Criteria
108
8 Mechanically Attached Fasteners
120
9 Needle Control and Metal Detection
126
10 Contact Information
Appendix A Forms
Test Request From
Fabric submit information sheet
Lab Dip/Strike-off/Embroidery/Fabric Submission Form
Appendix B List of Apparel Testing Protocols
132
138
140
142
143
144
Hudson’s Bay Company ,Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth
Avenue OFF 5TH
Appendix C Reference Material
150
2|P a g e
3|P a g e
Introduction
This manual provides details on the technical
requirements for Hudson’s Bay Company banners The Hudson’s Bay, Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth
Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH. This
manual is for all direct import suppliers of private or
captive branded softline products. The purpose of
the manual is for our suppliers to understand our
performance and safety standards.
We are
committed to providing quality merchandise that is
current and exclusive for our customers. We also
value our relationships with suppliers to commit to
our high standard of quality assurance that
ultimately will support business, reduce the number
of claims, and promote sales. Copies of this manual
and all other related documents can be found on
Intertek (ITS) website, by using the following ID
login and password:
https://getprotocol.intertek.com/Hbc/default.aspx
User ID:
LT\bd.Hbcvendor
P/W:
int0235
The Product Development Process
The diagram on the right gives an overview of the
product development process for all private and/or captive brand products. Please ensure you have
copies of the following manuals:
1. Social Compliance
2. Measurements Manual
3. Shipping & Logistics
Requirements for Duty Paid Landed (DPL) Vendors for Private and Captive Branded
Merchandise
The duty paid landed (DPL) vendors or domestic vendors for private and captive branded
merchandise, where vendors are the importers of record, it is the responsibility of the vendor to
4|P a g e
ensure the merchandise conforms to the Canadian and U. S. Consumer Product Regulations and
meets HBC, L & T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH private and captive brand
standards.
DPL vendors are required to conduct laboratory testing from nominated laboratory, Intertek
Services (ITS). Private branded merchandise cannot be shipped to stores without a valid and
passing ITS laboratory test report. Detailed lab testing requirements are listed in Chapter 6 of this
manual. This information can also be obtained by contacting your nearest ITS laboratory location or
from ITS website at the above link.
5|P a g e
CHAPTER 1
Construction
Quality
Standards
6|P a g e
7|P a g e
Garments manufactured for Hudson’s Bay Company, Lord & Taylor , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks
Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH must meet a variety of quality standards with regard to their construction.
These standards are given in this section. Additional requirements can be found in the specification
sheet for each style.
Quality Standards for Garments
Appearance, overall

Notions are compatible in color, fiber, weight, and design

Plaids, stripes, checks, and other designs match at seams and are balanced

Fabric runs with the nap and one-way designs are cut in one direction

Finished garment is pressed to give a smooth look

Loose raveling and thread ends are clipped

Sectional contrast colors do not show through the seam allowance

Lengthwise grainline is perpendicular to the floor; crosswise grainline is parallel to floor
Belts

Flat, smooth, free from bulk

Uniform width unless a design detail

Interfacing is compatible with the fabric

Closure is durable and secure

Closure is smooth and does not snag garments or scratch wearer

Closure is aligned with center front to prevent gaping when fastened

Color does not crock or bleed onto garments
Belt loops

Correct number of belt loops for the style

Positioning of belt loops evenly distributes the tensions around the full waist of the garment

Clean-finished at the ends and securely tacked

Raw edges of loops are hidden within waistband

Closed with a twin-needle cover stitch

Uniformly stitched, without puckering, skipped, or broken stitches
Buttons

Neatly and securely fastened with thread ends trimmed

Size and design are correct

Buttons are consistent in color

Placement is accurate; distance from edge and spacing in between are uniform
8|P a g e

Appropriate shank is provided to accommodate fabric

Stitching starts and ends under button

Colorfast, and will not fade, chip, or peel

Aligned correctly with buttonholes

Logos have been approved

An extra button is attached to the garment
Buttonholes

Flat and securely stitched

Even in width and length, and adequate in thread coverage

Distance from edge and spacing in between is accurate

Cut on grain

Correct size to fit buttons without gaping

Fabric (bound) buttonholes

Lips are even in width and size

Lips meet at the centre of the buttonhole

Corners are squared

Facing is securely attached to the buttonhole’s back
Machine-made buttonholes

Stitches are evenly spaced and smooth in appearance on the front and back of the
buttonhole

Buttonhole is cut cleanly with loose threads trimmed

Interfacing is in the correct color
Collars

Free from bulk: seams are graded, clipped, or notched

Under stitching prevents under-collar from rolling over and showing


Shape is symmetrical on right and left, except for intentional designs

Curved edges are smooth; points are sharp and flat

Rolls smoothly or lays flat, according to design

Properly secured inside collar points

Plaids, checks, and stripes are balanced side to side
9|P a g e
Cuffs

Flat, smooth, and free from bulk: seams are graded, and under stitched where applicable

Even in width

Under cuff does not show

Interfacing is compatible with the fabric construction and weight.
Darts

Tapered and smooth: free from pucker or bubble at the point

Securely fastened at ends

Symmetrical in shape, length, and spacing

Pressed properly: vertical darts are pressed toward the centre, and horizontal darts are
pressed down
Facings

Flat, smooth, and free from bulk: seams are graded, clipped, or notched, and understitched
where applicable

Securely tacked in place at seams and openings

Facing edges are free from raveling

Interfacing is compatible with fabric to maintain shape and prevent stretching
Gathers

Uniform, evenly distributed with no pleats forming

Full, and not flattened or bulky
Hems

Flat and smooth, and free from pulls, ripples, puckering, and pleats, unless as an intentional
design

Hem fold is pressed so the hem hangs smoothly at the lower edge

Hem edge is smooth, flat, and free from bulk and raveling

Seams are aligned

Hem edge finish does not create ridges or add bulk

Even in width throughout

Width is appropriate for garment style and fabrication

Topstitching is straight, and consistent in size and placement

Fused hems are flat and fused securely

Hangs parallel to floor, unless the design dictates an uneven hem

Blind-stitching is inconspicuous on the outside of garment
10 | P a g e
Interfacing

Compatible with the fabric: there is no significant change in hand

Enhances body and longevity of garment

Color and care requirements are compatible with shell fabric

Free from bulk, puckers, and bubbles

Not visible on inside or outside of garment

Bonded properly without separation after care procedure
Lapels

Lie flat against body

Free from bulk: seams are graded, clipped, or notched

Reinforced or taped on the roll line in tailored garments

Only facing is visible above the roll line

Seamline is under the edge of the lapel

Inner edge of facing is not visible


Shape is symmetrical on the left and right, except for intentional designs

Curved edges are smooth; points are sharp and flat

Adequate ease is allowed in the fold at the hem of sleeve and sweep
Lining

Conceals inner construction of garment without adding excess bulk

Color and care requirements are compatible with the outer fabric

Fits smoothly inside garment with the seams aligned

If attached at hems, the lining has a vertical pleat for ease at the centre back

If free hanging, the lining is attached at the seams with thread tacks

Does not hang below the garment: must be ½" shorter than sleeves and 1" shorter than
skirts, pants, jacket, and coats
Plackets

Flat, and free from excess bulk


Symmetrical in length and width

Smooth with no gathers, ripples, or puckers at end

Stripes, plaids, checks, or patterns match body
11 | P a g e
Pleats and tucks

Uniform in width, unless as a design detail

Spacing is accurate

Pressed flat, unless as a design detail

On the grain of the fabric where the design allows
Pockets

Flat, smooth, and free from bulk

Stitching is straight

Placed accurately

Upper corners are reinforced
Patch pockets

Upper corners are reinforced

Square corners are mitered, and round corners are symmetrical

If in pairs, patch pockets are symmetrical in size, shape, and fabric design

No drill holes show through
In-seam pockets

Interfaced, under stitched, and lie flat when worn

Inconspicuous unless intentional design
Pocket Bags

Uniformly stitched, without puckering, or skipped or broken stitches

Secured and attached properly
Welt Pockets

Interfaced and lie flat when worn

Ends of pockets are angled in the same direction

If in pairs, symmetrical in size, shape, and fabric design

Bar tacked at the ends of welt openings

Flaps (if present) are a minimum of ¼" longer than welts

Flaps are securely backstitched at ends
Pressing

Garment is smooth and free from wrinkles

Garment is free from sheen and scorch marks

No ridges from seams or facings
12 | P a g e

Seams are pressed flat

Pleats, tuck, creases are pressed as design requires
Seams

Securely stitched, straight, flat, and free from bulk

Stitches are appropriate in size and tension for the fabric

Fullness is eased smoothly

Crossed seams intersect correctly

Pressed in correct direction

Graded or trimmed, and under stitched where required

Matched to fabric designs where appropriate

If finish is used, there is no added bulk or tension

Crotch seam is secured from front to back and, where applicable, is pressed open

Raw edges are clean-finished, and free from raveling
Shoulder pads

Flat, smooth, and securely tacked

Covered with fabric compatible in color and weight with the garment

No visible stitches on the exterior of the garment
Sleeves (set-in)

Fullness is evenly distributed at front and back cap

Seam is smooth and even in width around cap

Underarm seam is trimmed and reinforced with a backstitch

Seam is pressed toward sleeve cap

Smooth and free from wrinkles
Snaps, hooks and eyes, and other fasteners

Area is reinforced with compatible interfacing

Inconspicuous from right side of garment

Garment lays flat and is aligned correctly when fastened
Stitching

Stitch length and tension is correct for fabric

Straight, and garment is free from broken, skipped, or run-on stitches

Beginning and ending stitch overlap and are firmly secure

Loose threads are trimmed
13 | P a g e
Topstitching

Straight and consistent in distance from the garment edge at all points

Stitch length and tension is correct for the design and fabric

Double rows of topstitching are an even distance apart

Topstitching is clean, with no repaired joins
Understitching

Even distance from seam, and does not show on outer garment

Holds seam against facing, under-collar, or cuff without wrinkles and puckers

Prevents facing, under-collar, or cuff from folding to right side of garment
Waistband

Smooth, even width

Free from bulk

On grain

Interfaced with compatible fusing to prevent waistband from stretching and rolling over

Stitching is straight and even with consistent tension

Corners are square

Waistband lays flat and aligns properly when fastened

Skirts or pants are eased to fit the band

Elastic waistband is constructed so elastic does not roll or twist and seam cracking does not
occur when the waistband is fully extended

Stitched evenly when applied

For tailored pants, curtained waistband is made of a fabric compatible with outer fabric
Zipper

Placket is smooth, flat, and free from puckering

Stitching is straight and even

Placket is the appropriate length and width

Seams and neckline edges match

Completely covered unless intended as a design feature

Function well and slides easily, recommended brands are YKK, YBS, HHH

Skirt and pant zippers end at the band

Open-end zipper is secured at the bottom end with a backstitch or bar tack
14 | P a g e
15 | P a g e
CHAPTER 2
Children’s
Safety
Standards
16 | P a g e
17 | P a g e
This section outlines the safety standards that will govern vendors who supply children's garments to
Hudson’s Bay Company, Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF
5TH banners. There is zero tolerance for deviations from these requirements regarding child safety
issues. The vendor is responsible for delivering products that meet all company and regulatory
standards (Health Canada in Canada, Consumer Product Safety Commission, USA), and products
that do not meet these standards will not receive approval to ship. Samples sent for pre-production
and production approval, as well as samples sent for bulk garment testing must be submitted with all
components representative of bulk production. All orders are subject to cancellation and removal of
product from the stores as a result of vendor non-compliance with children's safety standards.
Refer below for Children’s safety requirements according to the type of products and styling.
Outerwear

Outerwear top items include, but are not restricted to; outerwear coats, snow suits, jackets,
sweatshirts, vests, sweaters, and fleece pullovers

Outerwear bottoms include, but are not restricted to ski pants and splash pants
A. Hood/neck area on outerwear tops

No drawstrings allowed for any size at the hood and neck area as they pose a potential
strangulation hazard

Alternative closures are to be used for hoods

Button closure allowed only for sizes 7-20
18 | P a g e
B. Waist/Sweep area on outerwear tops and bottoms

Functional drawstrings are not allowed for sizes 0-7 at the waist and sweep area as they pose a
potential vehicular dragging hazard

Functional drawstrings for sizes 8-20 cannot exceed 3” in length outside the encasement when
the garment is extended to its fullest width

Functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends to pull together
parts of the garment to provide closure

No bungee or elastic cord allowed

Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable
end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped

Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must
withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs

Continuous drawstrings must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint or side seams to prevent
a longer portion from being exposed
19 | P a g e
C. Internal continuous draw cord on outerwear tops

The internal continuous drawstring is not allowed for size 0-6

An internal functional continuous drawstring cord with safety loop at the sweep is allowed
only for sizes 7-20

The cord, ribbon, tape, or bungee must not have any loose ends to pull together parts of the
garment

It must be bar-tacked at the center back as well as 2” on either side of the center bar-tack

The cord must be flush to the garment and exposed length cannot exceed 2” when garment
is relaxed

If the outerwear is reversible, an internal functional continuous drawstring cord with safety
loop is not allowed
20 | P a g e
D. Applied decorative bow or pre-tied decorative bow at waist/sweep area on outerwear
tops/bottoms

A cord, a ribbon, or tape of any material for decorative purposes is allowed for outerwear tops,
except at neck/hood area and outerwear bottoms, except at hem

The bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at the centre

Bow loops cannot exceed the maximum length of 1” for sizes 0-7 and 1.25” for sizes 8-20

Hanging ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for all sizes


21 | P a g e
Non-functional Tie
Pre-tied Decorative Bow
Non-functional Tie
22 | P a g e
Daywear
A. Hood/neck area on daywear tops

No drawstrings allowed for any size(0-20) at the hood and neck area as they pose a potential
strangulation hazard

For fashion scoop, crew, or boat neck tops a non-functional tie or pre-tied decorative bow is
allowed

The tie or bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at the centre

Tie ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for any size


Bow ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for any size

Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments.
Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped

Non-functional Tie
Non-functional Tie
Halters and shoulder straps



Functional halter and shoulder strap ties allowed for sizes 8-20
Halters and shoulder straps on sizes 0-7 must be continuous or use alternative closures
Example buttons, snaps, elastic, Velcro like tape or velour tape
Size 8-20: The maximum length of each tie from edge of neck to the end of tie relaxed is 15’’
Bibs

Bib closures should be Button, Snap or Velcro like tape with no sharp edges
23 | P a g e
B. Waist area on daywear tops and bottoms
Applied decorative bow or pre-tied decorative bow
Pre-tied decorative bows allowed for all sizes

The bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at each side of the
center knot


Bow ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for sizes 0-20


Non-functional drawstring








Non-functional drawstrings allowed for all sizes
Non-functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends for
decorative purposes
Non-functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint
Non-functional drawstrings for any size cannot exceed 3” in length outside the encasement
when the garment is extended to its fullest width
Functional drawstring








Functional drawstrings are not allowed for size 0-4
Functional drawstrings allowed only for sizes 4-20
Functional drawstrings for any size cannot exceed 3” in length outside the encasement when
the garment is extended to its fullest width
Functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends to pull
together parts of the garment to provide closure
Functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint or side seams to
prevent a longer portion from being exposed
24 | P a g e
Non-functional continuous bungee cord




Non-functional continuous bungee cord with flush toggle is allowed only for sizes 7-20 for
decorative purposes only
Maximum distance between the openings is 1” with only the looped portion exposed outside
of encasement
Cord must be tacked on either side, cord and toggle must be flush with garment when
relaxed
When pulled, the loop cannot be larger than 2” in diameter
INCORRECT
CORRECT
25 | P a g e
FLUSH TOGGLE
C. Sweep area on daywear tops and bottoms






The bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at each side of the
center knot
Bow ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for all sizes and cannot extend below
hemline









Non-functional drawstrings allowed only for sizes 8-20
Non-functional drawstrings not allowed on hemlines of tops which are loose fitting or below
hip length and bottoms which are loose fitting or below knee length
decorative purposes
Non-functional drawstrings for any size cannot exceed 3” in length outside the encasement
when the garment is extended to its fullest width
Alternative closures example buttons, snaps, encased elastic or Velcro like tape may be used
at sweep area on daywear tops and bottoms
26 | P a g e
Non-functional continuous bungee cord




Non-functional continuous bungee cord with flush toggle is allowed only for sizes 7-20
For decorative purposes only
Maximum distance between the openings is 1” with only the looped portion exposed outside
of encasement
relaxed
When pulled, the loop cannot be larger than 2” in diameter
Non-functional bungee cord with safety loop




Non-functional bungee cord with safety loop is allowed only for sizes 7-20
For decorative purposes only
Maximum length of total exposed bungee is 2” relaxed
relaxed
NON- FUNCTIONAL BUNGEE CORD WITH SAFETY TAB (7-18)
OPTION B
OPTION A
Side Seam
Side Seam
Bungee Cord (must be flush to garment)
Length of
Bungee Cord
cannot be
longer
than 2” in
distance
Bungee Cord (must be flush to garment)
Safety Loop
Toggle
Eyelet (Buttonholes can also be used)
Length of
Bungee Cord
cannot be
longer
than 2” in
distance
Safety Loop
Toggle
Eyelet ( Buttonholes can also be used)
N.B. Must have at least 1/2”
extension into seam
Bungee Cord must be bar-tacked
onto exterior of casement at
Center Back
N.B. Must have at least 1/2”
extenstion past bar-tack
Bungee Cord must be bar-tacked
onto exterior of casement at
Center Back
27 | P a g e
D. Internal continuous draw cord on daywear tops

An internal functional continuous drawstring cord with safety loop at the sweep is allowed
only for sizes 4-20

The cord, ribbon, tape, or bungee must not have any loose ends to pull together parts of the
garment

It must be bar-tacked at the centre back as well as 2” on either side of the centre bar-tack

The cord must be flush to the garment and exposed length cannot exceed 2” when garment
is relaxed

If the daywear is reversible, an internal functional continuous drawstring cord with safety
loop is not allowed
Internal Functional Continuous Drawstring Cord with Safety Loop
Centre` Bac k Seam
Side Seam
Length of
Bungee Cord
c annot be
longer
than 2” in
distanc e
Bungee Cord (m ust be flush to ga rm ent)
Safety Loop
Toggle
2” on either side of c entre
Bar-tac k
Bungee Cord m ust be
wrapped through and
through and tac ked at
c entre bac k seam
Eyelet ( Buttonholes c an also be used)
1 1/2”
Lining or poly twill fabric
m ust be 1 1/2” wide.
E. Functional Roll Tabs





Functional roll tabs are allowed at sweep area of daywear bottoms all sizes
When hem is unrolled, tab length must be shorter than or equal to hem
Roll tabs may be attached with buttons, snaps, elastic or Velcro like tape
Alternative to roll tab is a bungee loop fixed to inner leg and attaching to button on outer leg
for sizes 2-18 only
Diameter of bungee loop cannot exceed .75” relaxed or 1.5” when pulled
Bungee roll cuff option for sizes 2-20
28 | P a g e
F. Sweep area on infant’s gowns


Drawstrings at the hemline of infant’s gowns sizes 0-24mo are not permitted
Alternative finishing for hemlines includes zigzag stitching, encased elastic or overlocked
elastic
G. Sashes


Sashes are allowed at waist area of daywear tops all sizes
Sashes are to be attached only at side seams and cannot exceed the following maximum
length for each tie
Size
0-3x
4-7
7-20
Maximum Length
18”
25”
30”
H. Belts




Belt closures include, but are not restricted to self-ties, buckles, clips, D-rings or interlocking
rings (note: all rings must be seamless)
Metal tips are allowed for sizes 4-20
Hanging ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments
Metals must be brass or non-ferrous, meet all government regulatory requirements and pass
mandatory company testing
Free floating belts


Functional free floating belts allowed only for sizes 4-20
Functional free floating belts are defined as a belt separate from garment and of any material
with two loose ends to cinch a garment at the waist area
29 | P a g e
Non-functional belts




Non-functional belts allowed for all sizes
Non-functional belts are defined as a non-stretch belt attached to garment with two loose
ends for decorative purposes at the waist area
Non-functional belts cannot encircle more than half of garment circumference and cannot
be continuous
Above restrictions do not apply if belt is fully stitched to garment along all edges
Elasticized non-functional belts



Elasticized non-functional belts are allowed at front waist only for all sizes
Continuous portions of belt must be fully stitched to garment along all edges
Hanging end of belt cannot exceed 2” relaxed when belt is closed
FRONTVIEW
Non-Functional Belt: Front View
BACK VIEW
Elastic/web at back waistband must be secured
with a single needle stitch all around
Swimwear
A. Girls swimwear
Functional ties

Functional ties are not allowed at neck area for all sizes
Non-functional ties

Non-functional ties allowed at waist area for sizes 4-20


30 | P a g e

Tie must be lock stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint

Tie ends must not exceed 3” after tying
NON-FUNCTIONAL TIES


The bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at each side of the center
knot


Bow ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for all sizes


INCORRECT
CORRECT
31 | P a g e
B. Boys swimwear
Functional drawstring

Functional drawstrings allowed only for sizes 4-20

Drawstring must be internal for sizes 4-7

Functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends to pull together
parts of the garment to provide closure




Functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint or side seams to prevent a
longer portion from being exposed

Functional drawstring ends cannot exceed maximum 3” outside the encasement when the
garment is fully stretched

Non-functional drawstrings allowed at waist area for sizes 2-20

Non-functional drawstring ends cannot exceed maximum 3” outside the encasement when the
garment is fully stretched
decorative purposes





Pre-tied decorative knot

A cord, a ribbon, or tape of any material for decorative purposes is allowed for swimwear

The knot must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at the centre

Hanging ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for all sizes

32 | P a g e


Alternative closures i.e. buttons, snaps, elastic or Velcro like tape may be used at waist area on
swimwear
33 | P a g e
Sleepwear

Refer to Health Canada for all sleepwear guidelines for Canada and the CPSC for the USA.
Accessories
A. Hats and Caps

Hats and caps may be secured with chinstraps or ties following the below restrictions

Continuous chinstraps must be elasticized and snug fitting

All Tie ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments.


Ties cannot exceed the following
Size
Maximum Length with
ear flaps
Maximum Length
without ear flaps
0-24mo
2-20
6”
8”
10”
12”

Ends may be secured width Velcro like tape providing there are no sharp edges

Metal eyelets/grommets are not allowed on hats and caps
34 | P a g e
B. Mittens

No continuous mitten straps are allowed for sizes 0-7

Mittens may be fastened to sleeve opening using clips, snaps or Velcro like tape
C. Booties

No ties or draw cords are allowed
D. Snaps and fasteners

All children's wear garments in all sizes with snap fasteners must be tested for safety and quality
according to the regulatory standards

All snap fasteners must be made of plastic, brass or non-ferrous metal

Fasteners must be obtained from a recommended supplier or meet all regulatory requirements,
and pass mandatory testing.

Refer to Mechanically Attached Fasteners section in this manual for more details on technical
and safety requirements for fasteners
Snap attachment method

Snaps must not be applied over seams, stitching lines, fabric joints or uneven fabric thickness
Incorrect
Correct
S
napsfall onthe
seamsof 2 facings
Incorrect
Correct

Snaps must not have sharp edges or uncovered prongs that can injure or cut the wearer or
damage the fabric

The correct snap size must be used for the particular thickness of fabric

The bottom of the post must be flat
35 | P a g e

The cap and the post must be curled properly

The two staples must be completely curled

The cap or button must not turn easily

Reused snaps are not permitted

Snaps for outerwear and bottom weight fabric must be spring-loaded. Due to the nature of
some material (i.e. PVC) a plastic disc backing may be required to meet company strength
standards
Machine attachment

Snaps must be applied by recommended machines or following below

The dies are made to specifically fit the machine and technicians evaluate the setting of the snaps

The factory checks the adjustment of the machine twice daily

No poorly set snaps are found in random inspections by QA

The machine is pneumatic or electric press. No manually operated hand/foot press or electric
flywheel type presses are permitted
Snap attachment quality check

No gaps can exist between the snap and fabric, as the fabric can slip away from the fastener.
Gaps occur if prongs are too long or fabric is too thin

Fabric must be reinforced with compatible fusing to provide a stable foundation for the snap

Snaps must be set through fabric with a minimum of two plies. For lighter weight fabrics, at
least three plies are required

Snaps must be applied with correct pressure. This is checked by;
o Security of fastener – it must not be loose and must not come off easily when pulled
by hand
o Pressure of attachment – if a fingernail can get under fastener the pressure may be
too little, if fabric appears damaged the pressure may be too much
E. Metal shank buttons

Shank buttons allowed for sizes 0-20

Swivel shanks allowed for sizes 7-20

Metals must be brass or non-ferrous, meet all regulatory requirements and pass mandatory
company testing
F. Eyelets/Grommets

Metal eyelets or grommets allowed for sizes 4-20 only, must be brass or non-ferrous, meet all
regulatory requirements and pass mandatory company testing
36 | P a g e

Metal eyelets or grommets are not permitted when exposed to skin through regular wear of
garment

Eyelets cannot be plastic

Alternatives such as stitched eyelets or buttonholes may be used for sizes 0-3x
G. Hasps/sliders

Wire diameter must be a minimum of 12 gauges

Must be seamless

Sharp or pointed ends are not permitted
Hasp/slider attachment method

Insert the strap into the buckle/slider, pass up over the slider center bar and out of the
buckle/slider

Loop the strap around through the hasp

Bring the strap back around the slider center bar

Clean finish the strap end and ensure 1” depth
Slider must be seamless
1” Depth
37 | P a g e
Findings and Notions
A. Hanger loops

Mobilon hanger loops are the only permissible loops for children's wear

Hanger loops are restricted to the following maximum lengths
Size
0-24mo
2-3
4-7
8-20
Maximum
Length
5”
6”
7”
8”
B. Small parts

Small parts are not allowed for sizes 0-3x

Small parts must be accompanied by a choking hazard hangtag for sizes 4-7
Small parts are defined as anything that detaches from the garment when subjected to the relevant
test and can be totally enclosed in a small parts cylinder under force of not more than 1 lb once
detached.
The requirement of small parts for choking hazard applies to all decorative and functional items. If the
decorative or functional item fails attachment strength (HBC 004) or appearance after laundering
requirement, it will then be tested as a small part. If it fits entirely within the small parts cylinder in
any orientation, then the item must fail.
For L&T , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH additional testing required is Torque: 4 in-lbs (Not applicable to buttons).
For details on small parts cylinder see of the Canadian Consumer Product Safety Act, (formerly
Schedule VIII, of the Canadian Hazardous Products (Toys) Regulation (HPA)), or ASTM F 963 or
16CFR 1500 &1501 the Consumer Product Safety Commission, CPSC, USA.
Items which may become small parts if not properly attached include, but are not restricted to;











Metal zipper pulls
D-rings
Buckles
Sequins
Buttons
Snaps
Velcro
Non-textile appliqué
Bow
Rosettes
Flowers
Items which are small parts and are not allowed on sizes 0-3 include, but are not restricted to;

Plastic zipper tabs

Rhinestones
38 | P a g e





Beads
Eyelets
Rivets
Press Studs
Non-textile appliqué
Non-textile Appliqués

A part composed entirely of soft textile is exempt from small parts restrictions

Bows, rosettes, textile appliqués and pompoms are not exempt from small parts restrictions

Bows, rosettes, appliqués and pompoms that fit in a small parts cylinder but do not have an
accessible edge of 1/8” will be subjected to five launderings in lieu of pull test
Pompoms

Textile pompoms used on sizes 0-6x must be tested to the ASTM F963-96a standard or 16CFR
1500 &1501

Pompom will not be accepted if it becomes loose at less than the required tension and when
detached fits through the small ball gauge under its own weight

Pompoms cannot be glued on
Decorative trims

Soft decorative components (i.e. bows, rosettes, appliqués) that do not fit in a small parts
cylinder will be subjected to five launderings (on six garments) and visually assessed in lieu of
pull test

Bows or rosettes must be bar-tacked or stitched with a minimum of five stitches

Appliqués must be stitched and not glued on

No rhinestones or press studs are allowed for sizes 0-3x

Sequins are permitted on sizes 0-3x only if applied following the Safe Sequin Application
Guideline

Beads, rhinestones, sequins and press studs will be subjected 5 washes and visually assessed for 6
garments

Bows, rosettes, and appliqués must withstand pull test of 15 lbs of pressure for 15 seconds
Beads

Beads are not permitted on sizes 0-3x

Glass or wooden beads are not permitted for sizes 4-7

Natural materials (i.e. horn, pearl, coconut) are not permitted for sizes 4-20

Components cannot be glued on for sizes 4-20
39 | P a g e
Safe Sequin Application Guideline
Single Sequin Application

Each sequin must be machine embroidered with 6 stitches, 2 ply good quality threads each stitch

Each start and stop must be secured and locked

Sequin size must be 5mm to 7mm

Sequins must be flat, cannot be faceted

Spaced sequins must be sewn individually or connected with 10-12 SPI lockstitch. No thread
floats are allowed. Stitching must not break when pulled with reasonable force

Sequin application must be covered with knitted fusible interfacing on reverse side of garment.
Interfacing must have rounded corners or have edges secured in seams
Grouped/Chained Sequin Application

Each sequin must be machine embroidered with 4 stitches, 2 ply good quality threads each stitch

Each start and stop must be secured and locked

Sequin size must be 5mm to 7mm

Sequins must be flat, cannot be faceted

Sequin application must be covered with knitted fusible interfacing on reverse side of garment.
Interfacing must have rounded corners or have edges secured in seams
Sewing thread

Monofilament thread must not be used on construction seams

Monofilament thread is permitted for artwork application only under the following restrictions

Artwork must be fully fused or faced – to prevent skin irritation as well as potential unraveling

Thread loops of 1” or longer are not permitted

Thread must be applied with lockstitch machine
Buttons

Decorative and functional buttons must withstand pull test of 15 lbs of pressure for 15 seconds

Buttons smaller than 15 ligne should be of 2-hole configuration. Buttons 15 ligne or larger
should be of 4-hole configuration. Buttons that crack, chip or break are not permitted

Buttons must be machine stitched secured and locked

Covered buttons only allowed for sizes 7-20 and must be tested to HBC-004 Test Method 15lbs
for 15secs.

Novelty/fancy buttons allowed for all sizes with the following restrictions
40 | P a g e

Components cannot be glued on

No two-piece rimmed buttons with outer rings

No buttons with metal staples or hooks

No buttons made of natural materials (i.e. horn, pearl, coconut)

No top dyed buttons

Maximum shank backing part thickness must be 2mm

Metal sew-through buttonholes must be manufactured as part of the mold. Drill holes are not
permitted
Meta l rings or components glued onto button
NOT ALLOWED
Zippers

Zippers must be ordered from a recommended supplier (see Chapter 1) or meet all regulatory
requirements, and pass mandatory company testing

Metal components must be brass or non-ferrous, meet all regulatory requirements and pass
mandatory company testing

Refer to Chapter 4 for Zippers with surface coatings.
Pull tabs


Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments

Tab cannot exceed 1” in length beyond bartack

Other acceptable pulls include, but are not restricted to filled soft textile, molded plastic and
pompoms

Plastic pull tabs are not allowed on sizes 0-3x

Pull tabs must withstand HBC-004—Pull test of 15 lbs of pressure for 15 seconds
Pull tabs continued
41 | P a g e
Finishing
A. Flame retardant finishes on fabrics

Flame retardant finishes are not permitted for any banner ie. HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and
Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH.
B. Stone washing

If actual stones are used all pockets must be stitched closed

Stitching must be applied using the smallest number of SPI technically possible (no more than 56)

Machine must be set to loosest tension possible

Thread should be cotton and a different shade than fabric, but not contrasting

Hangtag should be included to inform consumer of stone wash procedure and instruct to
remove basting stitches from pockets
C. Sharp edges/sharp points-Use and abuse

All parts that are hard or stiff (i.e. metal parts, buttons, appliqués, Velcro like fasteners) must not
have any sharp edges, burrs or points

Hook and loop tape must have rounded corners

No needles or parts of needles can be left in garment. A needle detector and needle control
system must be used in factory

No metal pins, wires, or staples may be used in any part of the production process for bundling,
tacking or securing components
No mechanical hazards or safety hazards
Any graspable component or decorative item in clothing shall not present any other mechanical hazards
such as pinching, scissoring, bruising, lacerating, crushing, breaking or amputating
All styles for HBC which are also to be sold in Lord & Taylor , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth
Avenue OFF 5TH stores shall be reviewed by lab against the requirements of CPSIA Requirements
supplemental protocol to determine if additional testing or labeling is required.
42 | P a g e
43 | P a g e
CHAPTER 3
Flammability
and Chemical
Regulatory
Requirements
44 | P a g e
45 | P a g e
This section outlines the flammability and chemical, regulatory requirements of Canada Consumer
Product Safety act (CCPSA) previously known as the Hazardous Product Act, (HPA) and United States
of America’s Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). It also includes additional requirements
specific to Hudson’s Bay Company, Lord & Taylor ,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH .
The Flammability section includes regulatory requirements of sleepwear and non sleepwear, fabrics,
apparel and accessories.
The chemical requirements cover prohibited and regulated chemicals which are harmful for the user
if applied in excess. More details on these two areas are available on Health Canada and CPSC,
(USA) websites. Vendors are encouraged to refer to these sites regularly for updates and ensure all
regulatory requirements are followed.
Canadian Textile Flammability Regulations (SOR/2011-22) as per CCPSA previously known as the
Hazardous Product act (HPA)
All consumer textiles other than children's sleepwear must not have a flame spread time of:

3.5 seconds or less - where the product does not have a raised fiber surface.

Four (4) seconds or less - where the product has a raised fiber surface exhibits inhibition
or fusion of its base fibers.
Test method CAN/CGSB 4.2 NO.27.5-2008.
CCPSA- Children’s Sleepwear Regulations (SOR/2011-15)
Children's sleepwear (up to and including size 14X) has two separate sets of requirements depending
upon the style or design of the sleepwear:

Tight fitting sleepwear (including polo pajamas and sleepers, sleepwear for infants up to 7 kg,
and sleepwear for hospital use) must not have a flame spread time of 7.0 seconds or less using
the test method CAN/CGSB 4.2 NO.27.5-2008. (Reference: CCPSA ,previously called as
Hazardous Product Act - Schedule I, Part I, Item 5)

Loose fitting sleepwear (including nightgowns, nightshirts, dressing gowns,
housecoats, robes, pajamas, and baby-doll Panama) must have:
bathrobes,
1.
An average char length for five specimens that does not exceed 178 mm
2.
Not more than one individual specimen with a char length equal to the full length of
the specimen (254 mm) (Reference: CCPSA previously called as Hazardous Product
Act - Schedule I, Part II, item 40)
Vendor Responsibility
The vendor must:

Ensure that the fabric used meets the flammability requirements.

Ensure that fabric for children's sleepwear meets the strictest applicable standards.

Ensure that the style of children's sleepwear he or she is producing meets the requirements set
out in the CCPSA
46 | P a g e

Co-operate with any product recalls or withdrawals from the marketplace of noncompliant
goods.

Flame retardants are not allowed.
Health Canada Measurement Guidelines
Maximum dimensional criteria for polo pajamas (MM)
Sizes
Chest
Circumference
(twice A-B)
Seat Circumference
(twice C-D)
Thigh
Circumference
(twice G-H)
Ankle
Circumference
(twice E-F)
Wrist
Length of
Circum the Top
ference (K-L)
(twice
I-J)
0 to 2
3 to 4
5 to 6X
7 to 10
12 to
14X
740
780
830
900
980
725
725
795
850
980
410
435
470
530
590
310
320
330
350
370
285
290
295
305
315
400
450
525
590
650
Maximum dimensional criteria for sleepers (MM)
Sizes
0 to 2
3 to 4
5 to 6X
7 to 10
12 to 14X
Chest
Circumference
(twice AB)
740
780
830
910
1000
Seat Circumference
(twice CD)
725
725
795
920
1040
Thigh
Circumference
(twice GH)
410
435
470
530
590
Ankle
Circumference
(twice EF)
310
320
330
350
370
Wrist Circumference (twice
I-J)
285
290
295
305
315
Health Canada Government regulations on ponchos

Subject to flammability regulations in respect to either 45 or 90 degrees (45 degrees is regulatory
for normal apparel and the 90 degrees for children’s sleepwear or loose fitting garments).

Fringes should be: max 1.5’’ for sizes 0-24, max 2.5’’ for sizes 2-6x and max 3’’ for sizes 7-14.

All decorative non-functional items must follow the children’s safety standards in Chapter two
and governmental regulatory requirements.

If they are in the sleepwear department it is a Mixed-Style Sleepwear or joined together in the
sleepwear dept. it is a Modified Sleeper, both would be tested at 90 degrees, in line with the
Hazardous Products Act.
47 | P a g e
Common Sleepwear Silhouettes:
Cuffed polo PJ Set
Footed polo PJ set
Gowns
Robes
Robes
Lounge Se
Lounge set
48 | P a g e
Canadian regulations on Chemical Hazards
Lead content
Follow Health Canada's total lead content in surface coating of children's PVC products and on
other children articles and accessories. Total lead must not exceed 90ppm. HBC vendors must
adhere to CCPSA standard. Applicable items include children's raincoats, painted t-shirts, bib
backings, zippers, dyed to-match buttons, and snaps, kid’s accessories and footwear.
Consumer Products Containing Lead (Contact with Mouth) Regulations
Limit: 90 mg/kg total lead or less in any accessible part.
Accessible part – Any part of a consumer product containing lead that may be touched, licked, mouthed
or swallowed in the course of reasonably foreseeable use.
Products Covered
Items for all ages, other than kitchen utensils, that are brought into contact with the user’s mouth in the
course of normal use.
Examples: Baby bottle nipples, soothers, baby bibs; beverage straws, drinking spouts, other drinking aids;
mouth pieces of musical instruments; sports mouthpieces.
Items intended for use in play or learning by children under three years of age.
Examples: Children’s crayons, children’s paints, toys for children under three years.
Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde may cause an allergic reaction when it comes into contact with skin. Formaldehyde
content on infants' clothing - sizes 0-6X for The Bay - should be less than 75 mg/kg (ppm). For all
other sizes it should be less than 200 mg/kg (ppm).
Phthalates
Phthalates are a family of chemicals commonly used to make vinyl plastic, otherwise known as
polyvinyl chloride or PVC, soft and flexible. Studies suggest that certain phthalates are hazardous to
reproduction and development and may cause health effects such as liver and kidney failure in
young children when products are sucked or chewed for extended periods.
Phthalate restrictions are as follows:


DEHP, DBP, BBP restrictions apply to vinyl in toys for children under 14 years of age and
childcare articles for children under 4 years of age;
DINP, DIDP, DNOP restrictions apply to vinyl components that can be placed in the mouth of
a child under four years of age in toys for children and childcare articles. Limit: 1000 mg/kg per
restricted phthalate.
49 | P a g e
US Flammability Regulations as per Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)
The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is charged with protecting the American
public from unreasonable risks of injury or death from thousands of types of consumer products
under the agency's jurisdiction. The CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from
products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard or can injure children. As such
all suppliers and manufacturers producing private branded merchandise for Lord & Taylor are
required to adhere to the CPSC‘s requirements.
US General Flammability Requirements
All fabrics must meet the CPSC‘s flammability standards by ensuring all fabrics have been tested for
flammability. The requirements are detailed in the LABORATORY TEST MANUAL FOR 16 CFR
Part 1610: Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles. For a copy of this manual please click
here.
http://www.cpsc.gov/businfo/testapparel.pdf Fabric complies if designated class 1 for plain surface and class
1 or 2 for raised surface, failed if designated class 3(rapid and intense burning).
Children’s sleepwear flammability standards
To protect children from burns, these rules require that children’s sleepwear must be flame resistant
and self-extinguish if a flame from a candle, match, lighter or a similar item causes it to catch fire.
The rules cover all children’s sleepwear above size 9 months and up to size 14 and require that:
(1) the fabric and garments must pass 16CFR part 1615.4 or 16CFR part 1616.6 flammability
tests; or
(2) be "tight fitting" as defined by specified dimensions.
Infant sleepwear sized for 9 months or younger is exempt from rules because studies have shown
that infants in this range lack mobility, which significantly reduces the risk of injury from clothing
burns
Requirements to be considered for infant sleepwear (sizes 0 through 9 months):
Sleepwear is sized 9 months or smaller;
If a one-piece garment, does not exceed 64.8 centimeters (25.75 inches) in length; if a two-piece
garment, has no piece exceeding 40 centimeters (15.75 inches) in length;
Complies with all applicable requirements of the Standard for the Flammability Clothing Textiles (16
CFR part 1610) and the Standard for the Flammability Vinyl Plastic Film (16 CFR part 1611);
Bears a label stating the size of the garment, expressed in terms of months of age. For example, “0
to 3 mos.” or “9 mos.” If the label is not visible to the consumer when the garment is offered for
sale at retail, the same information must appear legibly on the package of the garment.
Requirements to be considered a tight fitting sleepwear (9 mos-14 years):
(1) Sized for 9 months and up to 14 years:
(a)Size 2 through 6X mean the sizes defined as 6 through 6X in Department of Commerce
Voluntary
Product Standard, previously identified as Commercial Standard, CS 151–
50 | P a g e
50 “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Apparel for Infants, Babies, Toddlers, and
Children.”;
(b) Sizes 7 through 14 means the sizes defined as 7 through 14 in Department of
Commerce Voluntary Product Standards PS 54–72 and PS 36–70, previously identified as
Commercial Standards, CS 153–48, “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Girls' Apparel”
and CS 155–50, “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Boys' Apparel”, respectively.
(2) does not exceed the max dimensions for the chest, waist, seat, upper arm, thigh, wrist, or ankle
listed
In 16 C.F.R. PART 1615 and 16 C.F.R. PART 1616;
Snug fitting Sleepwear maximum dimensions
(3) Have no fabric ornament or trim, such as lace or ribbon, which extends more than ¼ inch(6
mm) from the point at which it is attached to the garment;
(4) Have sleeves that taper from the shoulders to the ends of the sleeves;
(5) Have pant legs that taper from the thighs to the ends of the pant legs;
(6) For 1-piece - taper from the chest down to the waist and from the seat up to the waist;
(7) For 2-piece:
(a) Have an upper piece that tapers from the chest to the bottom of the piece,
(b) If the upper piece has fastenings, have the lowest fastening located within 6 inches of the
bottom of the piece, and
(c) Have a lower piece that tapers from the seat to the top of the piece;
51 | P a g e
(8) Bears a label stating the size of the garment; for example “Size 7.” If the label is not visible to the
consumer when the garment is offered for sale at retail, the garment size must appear legibly on the
package of the garment.
(9) bear a hang tag alerting buyers that the garments are not flame-resistant and should be worn snug
fitting because loose-fitting garments are more likely to catch fire;
(10) complies with all applicable requirements of the Standard for the Flammability Clothing
Textiles (16 CFR part 1610)( comply if designated class 1 for plain surface and class 2 for raised
surface, failed if designated class 3-rapid and intense burning) and the Standard for the Flammability
Vinyl Plastic Film (16 CFR part 1611)
(The rate of burning shall not exceed 1.2 in./sec as judged
by the average of five determinations lengthwise and five determinations transverse to the direction
of processing).
(10.1) 16 CFR part 1610 fabric exemptions (fabric complies requirements) if:
Plain surface fabrics weight is 88.2 g/m2 (2.6 oz/yd2) or greater,
OR
Plain or raised surface fabrics made entirely from or combinations of acrylic, modacrylic,
nylon, olefin, polyester, or wool.
(10.2) 16 CFR part 1610 Standard exceptions:
(a) Interlinings, provided they are sold for the purpose of covered or unexposed interlinings
(b) Hats, provided they not a covering for the neck, face, or shoulders when worn by an
individuals
(c) Gloves, provided longer than 14 inches and/or attached to a garment
Footwear that doesn’t consist of hosiery in whole or part or does not form an integral part of
another garment
(11) Bear a label “Wear snug fitting, Not flame resistant”
All types children’s sleepwear requirements (sizes 0-14):
(1) Each article of children's sleepwear must have a permanent label with instructions on how to
take
care of the garment to protect it from chemicals or other treatments that can reduce its flame
resistance;
If care instruction appears on label reverse side-“CARE INSTRUCTION ON REVERSE should
appear on label outside. If sleepwear item was tested after 1 wash, “WASH BEFORE WEARING”
must be labeled.
(2) Children's sleepwear must have a permanent label with 0.5 inch heigh and 0.75 inch wide min
dimensions with a unit identification (number, letter, date, or combination thereof) so manufacturers
can track the garment's associated fabric and garment production lots in the event of a recall;
52 | P a g e
(3) Manufacturers and importers must maintain written records as specified in the regulations;
For additional information regarding fabric, prototype seam and trim, production garment seam
testing and further details please refer:
16 C.F.R. PART 1610—STANDARD FOR THE FLAMMABILITY OF CLOTHING TEXTILES
http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/16-2.0.1.4.68.html
PART 1611—STANDARD FOR THE FLAMMABILITY OF VINYL PLASTIC FILM
http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/16-2.0.1.4.69.html
16 C.F.R. PART 1616—STANDARD FOR THE FLAMMABILITY OF CHILDREN'S
SLEEPWEAR: SIZES 7 THROUGH 14 (FF 5–74) http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/162.0.1.4.71.html
16 C.F.R. PART 1615—STANDARD FOR THE FLAMMABILITY OF CHILDREN'S
SLEEPWEAR: SIZES 0 THROUGH 6X (FF 3–71) http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/162.0.1.4.70.html
US, CPSC regulations on Chemical Hazards
Lead:
Lead in surface Coating,16 CFR1303
It includes but not limited to painted snaps, and scrapable graphics
Requirement – Max allowed 90 ppm, Manufacturers guarantee
Lead in substrate, EPA 3050b
Requirement –Max allowe-100 ppm
Exceptions –inaccessible component parts and components listed in 16 CFR1500.91 (D) & (E)
Phthalates-US Product Consumer Safety Improvement Act 2008
Any childcare article including clothing for children less than 12 years of age restrict the following:
Concentration of more than .01%
DEHP, DBP, BBP
Any toys placed in a child’s mouth and childcare article that should not contain below phthalates
with the concentrations of more than 0.1%
DINP, DIDP, DNIP
Formaldehyde-JIS-1041
Requirements: Children < 75 ppm , Adult <300 ppm
Direct or indirect contact with the skin. Also supplier’s guarantee is required.
53 | P a g e
Colorfastness to Saliva--64 LFGB B82.10-1
Requirement - Solution no 1 only, AATCC grey scale 4
Wash and corrosion durability
 At development stage only, all metal parts included

Use all standard solutions plus exposure to saliva

Requirement-No Corrosion, oxidation or discoloration is allowed
Nickel
Metal accessories for layette, infants, toddlers, kids products must be nickel free. Exception-Small
metal items (snaps, small buttons etc) with low amount of nickel may pass the metal detector test
and such items can be used provided they do not come I contact with the skin for prolonged time.
California Proposition 65 – Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986
Proposition 65, the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986, was enacted as a
ballot initiative in November 1986. The Proposition was intended by its authors to protect
California citizens and the State’s drinking water sources from chemicals known to cause cancer,
birth defects or other reproductive harm, and to inform citizens about exposure to such chemicals.
For more information, please refer to http://www.oehha.ca.gov/prop65.html
Additional requirements for CPSC, USA
Tracking Label for Children’s products
Products for Children 12 years of age or under require a tracking label. The tracking label must contain
information that will enable the manufacturer to ascertain the location and date of production of the
product and cohort information (including the batch, run number, or other identifying characteristic) and
any other information determined by the manufacturer to facilitate ascertaining the specific source of the
product by reference to those marks.
According to section 103 of CPSIA, tracking label must contain information that will enable the ultimate
purchaser to ascertain the manufacturer or private labeler, location and date of production of the product,
and cohort information (including the batch, run number, or other identifying characteristic). For more
information refer to link, http://www.cpsc.gov/ABOUT/Cpsia/faq/103faq.html or contact your nearest
ITS lab. Appendix C contains reference material for setting up a tracking label.
Conformity Certificate
The US law requires that each import (and domestic manufacturer) shipment be "accompanied" by
the required certificate. Certificate must include all applicable CPSC rules, standards, bans, or
regulations. Under the Commission's rule at for products manufactured overseas, the certificate
must be issued by the importer. For products produced domestically, the certificate must be issued
by the U.S. manufacturer. The importer or U.S. manufacturer is required to "furnish" the certificate
to its distributors and retailers. The Commission's rule states that this requirement is satisfied if
the importer or U.S. manufacturer provides its distributors and retailers a reasonable means to
access the certificate.
Please see the following link for more information or contact your nearest Intertek lab.
54 | P a g e
http://www.cpsc.gov/businfo/frnotices/fr09/certification.pdf
Note-The information about regulatory requirements for Canada and USA are being provided for
reference only. It is vendor’s responsibility to ensure that they frequently check and comply with all
updated regulations and requirements depending on the type of product and styling.
55 | P a g e
CHAPTER 4
Care
Instructions and
Labeling
56 | P a g e
57 | P a g e
The vendor is responsible for labeling and packaging for softlines products. The regulations and
guidelines for label and package use are very detailed, so it is important that the vendor read this
section carefully. It outlines Regulatory and mandated labeling and packaging guidelines and
provides reference material on care instructions. The nominated label suppliers for HBC and L&T
are SML, Avery Denison, Cadica and Nexgen. Avery Denison is nominated supplier for Saks Fifth
Avenue and for Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH, International Trimming and Labels (ITL) is a
nominated supplier.
Fur Policy and labeling for HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH
Any products that contain real or faux fur (no matter how small the quantity) must be properly
labeled on all items, and show the fur’s country of origin. Any advertisements must also have the
disclosure “fur products labeled to show country of origin of imported furs”, see below for examples for real
fur. Products that have faux fur must be labelled as faux fur or fake fur. Apparel and Accessories
with Faux Fur or Fake Fur in any amount must follow fiber content textile labeling and ensure to
call out that it is Faux fur or Fake fur on the label.
It is company policy that we do not purchase items that may contain fur from the "asiatic raccoon"
also referred to as the "raccoon dog", or dog and cat fur.
Items with real fur trim must be supplied from legitimate factories/suppliers with proper
documentation to confirm legitimacy. Canada and the U.S. have legislation in place for health and
safety procedures in abattoirs and fur farms to ensure fur has been removed in a humane manner.
All accessories or apparel items that have fur or fur trim will require documentation confirming
origin of species and source country.
Any suppliers who have engaged in fraudulent practices of exporting fur or mislabeling origin of
species will be penalized and goods will not be accepted.
Additionally the label for Real Fur should disclose;
If the fur is pointed, printed, dyed, bleached, or artificially colored.
If none of these treatments applies, the fur should be labeled as “natural.”, followed by the animal
name.
If the fur product is composed in whole or substantial part (more than 10 percent of surface area) of
pieces such as paws, tails, sides, flanks, gills, ears ,throats, heads, scraps or waste fur.
If the fur is used or damaged.
The textile or wool content of any part of the content. For example a wool coat with fur trim, the
label must disclose the wool content as required by Wool Act and Rules
The content of fur coat lining must be disclosed if lining provides added warmth. If the lining serves
only structural purposes, its fiber does not have to be disclosed.
Examples of Real Fur Country of Origin labeling:
Rabbit fur from China
Fourrure de lapin de Chine
Rabbit fur trimming from China
Garniture en fourrure de lapin de Chine
Rabbit fur pompom from China
Pompon en fourrure de lapin de Chine
58 | P a g e
HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH textile labeling requirements
Under federal requirements, manufacturers, retailers, importers, and distributors are required to
abide by the following regulations concerning labels:










The country of origin must be displayed on a permanent label, see Appendix C for examples.
The type of fibers contained in the fabric must be displayed by generic name (e.g. cotton,
nylon, rayon, etc.).
Each fiber present in the amount of five (5) per cent or more of the garment must be
declared as a percentage of the total fiber weight of the article. These percentages must be
listed in descending order.
Sectional disclosure is required for items having sections or parts differing in fiber content;
for example, if the body and sleeve have different fiber content, then each section’s content
must be declared on the label.
All labels must display the correct CA identification number: CA #00234 for The Bay
products
All labels must display the correct RN identification number: RN #123455 for L&T and
RN#92087 for SAKS products .
Garment labels must be permanently attached and be able to withstand 10 cleanings or the
useful life of the article, whichever is less. The label, the care, and any additional written
information must remain legible for this length of time.
Non-permanent labels are acceptable on items such as undergarments, gloves, and headwear.
Care Label must be sewn in permanently and must comply with regulations. If label is not
visible through packaging, care must be repeated on packaging.
For Saks Fifth Avenue, care labeling symbols are used .Refer below for more details at the
end of this chapter.
Additional requirements for Canada

Label must be both in English and French of equal size in letters no smaller than 1.6 mm.

French is required on all product labeling and packaging and anything that is written in
English must also be in French. The French inscriptions cannot be smaller than those in
English language and must be flawless. HBC further requires that care instruction labels
should be taffeta ribbon or woven. Paper labels are not permitted.
Label placement
For label placement please, refer to applicable textile labeling requirements for country of origin and
Brand Label Kits or Contact Buyer for requirements.
Care Instructions
Vendors may find the care instructions and care codes on the following pages. This can also be
provided on the Packaging & Labeling/Trim Detail sheets of the Technical Specification Packs.
To determine the proper care instructions at the time of laboratory testing, please use the
proposed/recommended care mentioned in charts below and then refer to testing report for
confirmation or laboratory suggested care.
59 | P a g e
Recommended care instructions with codes by end use and fabrics/yarns:
WOVENS
PRODUCT
Tops & Bottoms
FIBER CONTENT
CARE
Cotton, Nylon, Polyester, Acetate and blends with
them
Silk and silk blends, wool and wool blends, Rayon,
Viscose & Modal
Linen and Linen Blends
3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a (Cotton,
Linen) OR 62/62a (Other Fibers), 87/87a
4/4a, 34/34a, 43/43a, 62/62a OR 81/81a
Tops & Bottoms with Beads,
Sequins, Glitter, Foil prints
&/or Delicate fabrics
All fibers
Denim
Cotton, Cotton Blends and Stretch Denims
Blazer, Jackets
lined/unlined
Outerwear
All fibers
All fibers with/without coating/laminating/film,
except wool
Wool
4/4a, 34/34a, 44/44a or 41/41a
61/61a , 87/87a
Delicate fabrics: 4/4a or 5/5a, 11/11a,
35/35a, 44/44a, 68/68a, 70/70a, 81/81a
With Embellishments: 5/5a, 11/11a,
35/35a, 41/41a, 62/62a, 67/67a
3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a
4/4a, or 108/108a, 35/35a, 44/44a,
65/65a, 87/87a
4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 65/65a, 82/82a
81/81a
Sleepwear & Robes
100% Cotton/Blends including brushed & Terry
3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a
Sleepwear & Robes
All synthetic fibers including brushed and terry
4/4a, 11/11a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 62/62a
Sleepwear & Robes
Silks, Wool, Merino & Cashmere
5/5a, 105/105a, 34/34a, 43/43a 87/87a
Leather Garments
Lined and unlined
85/85a
KNITS
PRODUCT
FIBER CONTENT
CARE
Dresses, Jackets/Blazersunlined, pants, shorts,
rompers, jumpsuits, overalls,
skirts, Sleepwear & Robes
Tops and T-shirts
Cotton, linen, nylon, Rayon, polyester and blends with
these fibers,
3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 62/62a,
84/84a (applicable to linen only)
all fibers except Linen and linen blends
Knitted tops/Tees and bottoms
Linen and Linen Blends
4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a (cottons)
or62/62a other fiber
4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a or 84/84a
Jog Suits, Sweatshirts, Pants,
Shorts and Jackets-
Velour, microfleece, polar or jersey Fleece; 100%
cotton, 100% Synthetic and cotton/polyester,
cotton/nylon and cotton/spandex blends including
Brushed and Pile fabrics
Silk, Wool, Merino, Cashmere & and Modal
Sleepwear/lounge & Robes
3/3a, 11/11a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 62/62a,
4/4a, 114/114a, 34/34a 41/41a,
62/62a
60 | P a g e
SWEATERS
FIBER CONTENT
PRODUCT
CARE
For styles with button or zippers, please, see care library below for additional care options
Basic Sweater knits
Cotton, Acrylic, Polyester and blend with these
4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 62/62a, 87/87a
Cashmere
5/5a, 105/105a, 113/113a, 34/34a,
52/52a, 68/68a, 87/87a
5/5a, 105/105a, 34/34a, 43/43a,47/47a,
68/68a, 87/87a
4/4a, 35/35a, 43/43a, 62/62a, 87/87a
Wool, Merino, Lamb’s wool, Silk.
Delicate or embellished
All fibers
83/83a Dry Clean Only—Can only be used when care by another method will damage the goods.
86/86a: if using Professional Dry Clean only—then label must state the specific chemical and processing that can be used.
ACCESSORIES AND SWIM
PRODUCT
FIBER CONTENT
CARE
Mittens, Gloves, Leg Warmers, Scarves and
Shawls (Knitted or woven)
Mittens, Gloves, Leg Warmers, Scarves and
Shawls (knitted or woven)
Acrylic, Cotton, Polyester and blends
4/4a, 114/114a, 35/35a, 44/44a
Wool and wool blends
5/5a, 34/34a, 43/43, 47/47a, 62/62a
87/87a
Fancy Headwear
Wool felt and other
81/81a
Woven or Knit Caps and Hats and straw hats
All fibers except wool
4/4a, 35/35a, 41/41a, 62/62a
Socks & tights basic constructions
All fibers
11/11a, 114/114a, 3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a
Socks & Tights-Delicate knitted Stitch
Construction
All fibers
114/114a, 3/3a, 35/35a, 41/41a, or
43/43a
Woven and Knit Swimwear and Exercise
Leotards
Woven and Knit Swimwear and Exercise
Leotards
All fiber -- basic designs
4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 41/41a
All fiber—with embellishments such
as foil print or rhinestones
All fibers
11/11a, 5/5a, 35/35a, 41/41a
All fibers
5/5a, 35/35a, 41/41a or 43/43a
All fibers.
4/4a, 114/114a, 35/35a, 41/41a
Woven or Knit Briefs, Panties, Undershirts
and Camisoles
Bra Underwire &/OR Padded
Bra Seamed soft Cup
3/3a, 35/35a/44/44a, 63/63a
61 | P a g e
General Care Instructions with Codes:
Care
Code
English
French
Washing / Lavage
1/1a
Laver à la machine à l'eau chaude au cycle normal
5/5a
6/6a
Machine wash in hot water at a normal
setting
Machine wash in warm water at a normal
setting
Machine wash in warm water at a gentle
setting
Machine wash in cool water at a gentle
setting
Hand wash in cool water
Do not wash
7/7a
Wash separately
Laver séparément
8/8a
Wash before wear
Laver avant de porter
9/9a
Wash colours separately
Laver les couleurs séparément
10/10a
Wash dark colours separately
Laver les couleurs foncées séparément
11/11a
Wash inside out
Laver à l'envers
12/12a
Surface clean with damp cloth or sponge
Nettoyer la surface avec un linge ou une éponge humide
13/13a
14/14a
Do not wring
Wash with gentle soap - no detergent
Ne pas essorer
Laver avec un savon doux - pas de détergent
15/15a
Machine wash in cold water at a normal setting
Laver à la machine à l'eau froide au cycle normal
16/16a
Wash with buttons fastened
Boutonner avant de laver
17/17a
18/18a
Wash with zipper fastened
Hand wash separately, in cold water
Fermer la glissière avant de laver
Laver à la main séparément à l’eau froide
2/2a
3/3a
4/4a
19/19a
20/20a
21/21a
22/22a
23/23a
24/24a
25/25a
Remove from washer promptly
Wash with like colours
Do not use liquid fabric softener
Close all fasteners before washing
Do not store wet
Do not allow to sit in washer or dryer
Machine wash separately in cool water at
gentle setting, removing promptly
26/26a
Do not use fabric softener
27/27a
Remove belt before wash
28/28a
Remove decoration before washing
101/101a Remove Fur Trim before washing
Laver à la machine à l'eau tiède au cycle normal
Laver à la machine à l'eau tiède au cycle délicat
Laver à la machine à l'eau froide au cycle délicat
Laver à la main à l'eau froide
Ne pas laver
Retirer rapidement de la laveuse
Laver avec des couleurs semblables
Ne pas utiliser d'assouplissant liquide
Fermer toutes les attaches avant de laver
Sécher avant de ranger
Retirer immédiatement de la laveuse ou de la sécheuse
Laver séparément à la machine à l'eau froide au cycle délicat;
retirer rapidement
Ne pas utiliser d'assouplissant
Enlever la ceinture avant de laver
Enlever la garniture avant de laver
Enlever la garniture en fourrure avant de laver
62 | P a g e
Care
Code
English
French
Washing Continue / Lavage (suite)
102/102a
103/103a
104/104a
105/105a
106/106a
107/107a
108/108a
109/109a
110/110a
111/111a
112/112a
113/113a
114/114a
115/115a
Remove fake fur trim before washing
Remove pouch before washing
Wash Bright colours separately
Do not twist or wring
Spot Clean only
Machine wash hot with like colours at normal
setting
Machine wash in warm water with like
colours at gentle setting
Machine wash cold with like colours at gentle
setting
Hand wash hot
Hand wash warm
Enlever la garniture en similifourrure avant de laver
Enlever la poche avant de laver
Laver les couleurs vives séparément
Ne pas tordre ni essorer
Nettoyer les taches seulement
Laver à la machine à l’eau chaude avec des couleurs
semblables au cycle normal
Laver à la machine à l’eau tiède avec des couleurs
semblables au cycle délicat
Laver à la machine à l’eau froide avec des couleurs
semblables au cycle délicat
Laver à la main à l'eau chaude
Laver à la main à l'eau tiède
remove promptly
with mild detergent
Wash in mesh bag
Remove collar before washing
retirer rapidement
avec un détergent doux
Laver dans un sac en filet
Retirer le col avant de laver
116/116a Close all hooks before washing
Attacher toutes les agrafes avant de laver
117/117a To protect zipper pull, wash in a mesh bag
Laver dans un filet pour protéger la tirette
Bleaching / Blanchiment
31/31a
Use chlorine bleach as directed
32/32a
33/33a
Do not use chlorine based bleach
Use non-chlorine bleach only
Utiliser un agent de blanchiment chloré suivant les
indications
Ne pas utiliser d’agent de blanchiment chloré
Utiliser seulement un agent de blanchiment non chloré
34/34a
35/35a
Do not bleach
Only non-chlorine bleach when needed
Ne pas javelliser
Utiliser un agent de blanchiment non chloré au besoin
Drying / Séchage
40/40a
41/41a
42/42a
43/43a
Tumble dry at medium to high temperature
Hang to dry
Drip dry
Dry flat
Sécher par culbutage à température moyenne ou élevée
Suspendre pour sécher
Sécher par égouttement
Sécher à plat
44/44a
Tumble dry at low temperature
Sécher par culbutage à basse température
63 | P a g e
Care
Code
English
French
Drying continued / Séchage (suite)
45/45a
Tumble dry – remove promptly
Sécher par culbutage – retirer rapidement
46/46a
Block to dry
Maintain original size and shape while drying
Hang to dry away from sunlight
Line dry while twisted
Mettre sur forme pour sécher
Maintenir la forme et la grandeur d’origine pendant le
séchage
Sécher par culbutage à température basse ou moyenne
Suspendre à l’abri du soleil pour sécher
Maintenir tordu et suspendre pour sécher
52/52a
Do not tumble dry
Reshape and lay flat to dry
Ne pas sécher par culbutage
Remettre en forme et sécher à plat
53/53a
with tennis balls
avec des balles de tennis
54/54a
55/55a
Tumble dry
Tumble dry high
Sécher par culbutage
Sécher par culbutage à température élevée
56/56a
Tumble dry medium
Sécher par culbutage à température moyenne
47/47a
48/48a
49/49a
50/50a
51/51a
Tumble dry low to medium temperature
Ironing / Repassage
60/60a
61/61a
62/62a
63/63a
64/64a
65/65a
66/66a
67/67a
68/68a
Iron at high setting
Iron at medium setting
Iron at low setting
Do not iron
Repasser à température élevée
Repasser à température moyenne
Repasser à basse température
Ne pas repasser
Permanent press
Iron on reverse side
Dampen garment before ironing
Do not iron motif
Sans repassage
Repasser à l’envers
Humecter le vêtement avant de le repasser
Ne pas repasser le motif
Iron at low temperature on reverse
Repasser à l’envers à basse température
70/70a
Do not iron decoration
Ne pas repasser la garniture
71/71a
Do not iron print
Ne pas repasser l’imprimé
72/72a
Cool Iron as needed
Represser à basse température au besoin
73/73a
74/74a
To maintain crease effect do not iron
Steam iron if necessary
Ne pas repasser pour préserver l'effet froissé
Repasser avec un fer à vapeur au besoin
75/75a
Cool Iron reverse side
Repasser à l’envers à basse température
76/76a
Do not iron label
Ne pas repasser l’étiquette
Dry Cleaning / Nettoyage à sec
80/80a
Dry clean
Nettoyer à sec
81/81a
82/82a
83/83a
84/84a
Dry clean with caution
Do not dry clean
Nettoyer à sec avec précaution
Ne pas nettoyer à sec
Dry clean only
Can be dry-cleaned
Nettoyer à sec seulement
Peut être nettoyé à sec
64 | P a g e
Care
Code
English
French
Dry Cleaning continued / Nettoyage à sec (suite)
85/85a
86/86a
Professionally leather clean only
Nettoyeur professionnel pour cuir seulement
Professional dry clean only
862/862a Short Cycle
863/863a Low Heat
Nettoyage à sec professionnel seulement
864/864a No Steam
87/87a
or dry clean
Sans vapeur
88/88a
89/89a
Cover toggle sets with foil prior to cleaning
Close all fasteners before dry cleaning.
Cycle court
Basse température
ou nettoyer à sec
Couvrir les bûchettes avec de l’aluminium avant de nettoyer
Fermer toutes les attaches avant de nettoyer à sec.
For further information regarding textile labeling for Canada, and English and French translation
of Fibre names, please visit the Textile Labelling Act at the Competition Bureau of Canada at:
http://www.competitionbureau.gc.ca/internet/index.cfm?itemID=1333&lg=e
For further information regarding textile labeling for US, please visit the Federal Trade Commission
Textile and Wool Act at:
Lord &Taylor http://business.ftc.gov/documents/bus21-threading-your-way-through-labelingrequirements-under-textile-and-wool-acts
65 | P a g e
Care Labeling symbols for Saks Fifth Avenue only
ISO Symbols
66 | P a g e
67 | P a g e
CHAPTER 5
Stuffed Articles
and Upholstery
Labeling
68 | P a g e
69 | P a g e
Canada and the United States each have different requirements for stuffed articles labeling for apparel. Thus we
have separated the requirements below. Apparel shipping to both countries must follow the more stringent
requirements.
Stuffed Articles requirements in Canada
The Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulation is administered at the provincial level in Ontario,
Manitoba, and Québec. It is intended to protect the public from use of unclean filling materials.
Items such as insulated outerwear, quilted shirts, bedding, and any product that contains hidden fill
are covered by the legislation.
Those wishing to manufacture stuffed articles for sale in Ontario, Manitoba, or Québec must
register with the appropriate government offices and fasten disclosure labels to their products. Note
that registration must occur at the factory level: importers, distributors and agents are not eligible for
registration.
Since government inspection of our stores occurs on a regular basis, it is essential that all products
be in compliance, using the correct label. Products found not to be in compliance will be removed
from sale.
The following section provides information on the Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulation and
the obligations it places on vendors. This information is important for the vendor to remember
when negotiating costs before orders are placed.
The complete Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulation of Ontario is available online at
www.tssa.org
Registration & Fees
Registration for the Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Act is mandatory for manufacturers whose
products will be sold in Ontario, Manitoba, or Québec, but it is limited to the factory level.
Importers, distributors, agents, and retailers are not eligible to register.
Manufacturers located in one of the above provinces must register in that province. Manufacturers
not located in one of these provinces must register in all three.
Since registration applies to the factory of production, the address used for registration must agree
with the country of origin. For example, if the factory is in Indonesia, the trading company in Hong
Kong must not be the vendor of record for the registration.
Registration application forms are available from the provincial government offices Contact
information provided in this chapter and it is the vendor's responsibility to register directly with each
of the provincial offices. Hbc is not equipped to handle the paperwork, and a fee will be charged if it
becomes necessary.
The total fee for registering with all three provinces is about $1200.00 (CAN). Registration fees must
be renewed annually. In order to keep his or her current registration number, the registrant must file
the renewal application prior to the registration's expiry date. If the renewal application is not filed in
time, the registration number will lapse and a new number be assigned, which can cause problems
during an inspection.
70 | P a g e
Labels
All upholstered and stuffed articles offered for sale in Ontario, Manitoba, or Québec must bear a
label in an approved format. The following information applies to Ontario; the vendor should
contact the appropriate provincial government office for details on labels in Manitoba or Québec.
Labels can be produced by any printer and must adhere to the following guidelines.
Some examples of appropriate labels are mentioned below for reference:

Registration number: Vendors located in one of the three above provinces must put the
registration number from that province on the label. Other vendors can use any of the three
registration numbers on the label (preferably the Ontario number), or they can use all three. The
inspectors have the capability of cross-checking all the numbers when examining products in the
store.

Content: The vendor must indicate the fill content in this section. It is essential that the specific
content and percentage are given here (e.g., "100 per cent polyethylene foam" rather than "foam
fill"). Consult Fill Content Definitions on TSSA website, or contact the appropriate provincial
government office for further details. If there is any doubt about the correct declaration for a
filling, a sample should be submitted to the provincial office for a ruling.
Size: The label must be one of the approved sizes as per the given examples. Detailed information
on label sizes may be obtained by contacting the appropriate provincial government office.

Label material: The label must be of a permanent material and must be able to withstand
cleaning. Paper or stickers are not acceptable.

Label placement: Labels must be securely fastened to the article in a conspicuous location.
Packaged goods must have the labels clearly visible in order that they may be read without
opening the package or removing the contents.

Newly registered manufacturers should submit a sample copy of their labels to the appropriate
provincial government office for approval.
71 | P a g e
Joint Federal-Provincial Labels
Federal laws require a fiber content statement for all textile components in bed pillows, comforters,
sleeping bags and quilted garments. These statements may be given on the bottom of provincial
labels under the heading "Federal Requirement," or on a separate label.
Inspections
All upholstered and stuffed articles are subject to audit inspections by provincial government staff at
any time, from the manufacturing stage to the retail level. Such inspections may include routine
representative sampling.
72 | P a g e
Contact Information: Ontario
Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Program
Technical Standards & Safety Authority
14th Floor Centre Tower
3300 Bloor Street West
Toronto, ON M8X 2X4
Registration Service
Toll Free : 1-877-682-8772
Tel: (416) 734-3408
Fax: (416) 231-9601
Email : [email protected]
Peta-Gaye Willis
General Information and Label Approval
Tel: (416) 734-3461
Fax: (416) 231-9162
For questions about registration and labeling requirements in:
Manitoba
Manitoba Consumers' Bureau
302-258 Portage Avenue
Winnipeg, Manitoba R3C 0B6
Québec
Gouvernement du Québec
Ministère de l'Industrie, du Commerce
De la Science et de la Technologie
Direction des activités commerciales
Et des opérations
Québec Industrie et Commerce
380, rue Saint-Antoine Ouest, 4e étage,
Montréal, QC H2Y 3X7
Ms. Kristine McKay
Tel: (204) 945-6368
Fax: (204) 945-0728
Danielle Leger
Tel: (514) 499-2176
Fax: (514) 864-9276
For inquirers relating to Federal textile labeling
requirements:
Industry Canada
Fair Business Practices Branch
17th floor, phase 1, Place du Portage
50 Victoria Street
Hull, QC, K1A 0C9
Tel: 819-997-4282
Toll Free: 1-800-348-5358
Fax: 819-997-0324
www.cb-bc.gc.ca
73 | P a g e
Stuffed Articles Requirements for USA
All filling material must be new and free of contaminates such as splinters, metal chip. All labeling
must follow the Federal Trade Commissions' Textile and Wool Act and Rules and/or the
International Feather and Down Bureau labeling.
Law Label
Filled clothing such as vests and coats and jackets, for most states at present do not require the
complex Law Tag label that is needed for bedding and upholstered products except for the state of
Utah. However, these garments must have a sewn-in label that complies with the Federal Trade
Commission’s apparel labeling, were the filling is declared. If linings, interlinings, fillings, or
paddings are incorporated into a garment for warmth (including metallic-coated textile linings and
linings or fillings that contain any amount of wool), their fiber content must be disclosed as a
sectional disclosure. For example:
Covering: 100%
Rayon
Filling: 100%
Cotton
Even if the outer fabric and the lining or interlinings are made of the same material, the fiber
content should be disclosed separately.
Shell: 100% Polyester
Interlining: 100% Polyester
If the lining, interlining, filling, or padding is the only textile portion of the product, (with the outer part
made of a non-textile material such as rubber, vinyl, fur, or leather), the fiber content of the lining,
interlining, filling, or padding must be disclosed if it is incorporated into the product for warmth.
Down Filled Labeling
Any product labeled as "DOWN" must contain a minimum of 75% down and plumules.
Manufacturers must disclose the minimum percentage of down in a product. Down products
normally contain small amounts of other components. If these other components exceed the
following MAXIMUMS, the percentages of each must be listed on the label. Quill Feathers are not
permitted.
74 | P a g e
FILL TYPE
Down Fiber
Feather Fiber
Chopped, Damaged &
Crushed Feathers
Land fowl Feathers
Residue
MAXIMUM
%
10%
10%
2%
2%
2%
ALL NEW MATERIAL
consisting of
Feather and Down blended products containing
5% and 49% down, should be labeled as below
Keeping in mind that Feather and Down
normally contain small amounts of other
components. If these other components exceed
following MAXIMUMS, the percentage of each
listed on the label. Quill Feathers are not
FILL TYPE
Down Fiber
Feather Fiber
Chopped, Damaged &
Crushed Feathers
Land fowl Feathers
Residue
FEATHERS AND
DOWN
(95%Duck Feathers,
5%Down)
CONTENTS
STERILIZED
between
example.
products
the
must be
permitted.
MAXIMUM
%
10%
10%
7%
5%
2%
For inquirers relating to Federal Textile Labelling requirements visit the Federal Trade Commission
website.
75 | P a g e
CHAPTER 6
Laboratory
Testing
76 | P a g e
77 | P a g e
Color Approval and Laboratory Testing
This section provides technical details about color approval and testing requirements for HBC,
L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH suppliers for softlines merchandise.
Color Approvals prior to testing
For visual color matching by using a light box: HBC, L&T ,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth
Avenue OFF 5TH requires that matching must be conducted with at least three light sources, D65,
CWF (Cool white fluorescent light) and incandescent “A” and there should be no visible shade
difference between all three light sources.
Note: The vendor must use ‘Branded’ dyes and chemicals for a better color match.
The spectrophotometer reading should be done by the dye house that will produce the bulk fabric.
Here is the acceptable value guide the dye house should follow.
Acceptable Value Guide
CMC DE<0.80
Approved
0.80< CMC DE < 1.20
Approved, pending a visual assessment by the
Product Development Manager
CMC DE > 1.20
Rejected: do not submit; re-dip and test again
Exceptions
In cases of color dips that “flare” or are “difficult,” such as fluorescent shades, up to three (3)
submissions may be sent for approval.
No spectrophotometer reading is required for “heather” or “mélange” shades, small prints, satins,
and jacquards, pile fabrics like polar fleece, looped terry, or velour. These fabrics cannot be
successfully measured by a spectrophotometer. The visual color matching by using a light box must
be conducted with at least three light sources, D65, CWF (Cool white florescent light) and
incandescent “A”. There should be no visible shade difference between all three light sources.
Strike-offs, patterns, embroideries, and fabrics
All strike-offs, patterns, and embroideries must be approved .Bulk fabric samples for all fabrics must
also be approved prior to testing.
The swatch size of a submitted strike-off should allow for at least one repeat.
For co-ordinate sets, (e.g., a solid top and printed bottom), the vendor must send solid color dips
and strike-offs at the same time.
Patterns
The patterns for sweaters (e.g., crochet designs, cable designs, etc.) should be large enough to allow
for visual assessment.
For yarn-dyed garments, the vendor must first submit all desk looms or knit downs of every pattern
and colorway for review and final approval.
78 | P a g e
Embroideries
Embroideries should be sent on the correct ground color fabric to be assessed properly.
Fabrics
The vendor must send bulk fabric swatches in the correct hand feel, weight, and construction. The
swatches must measure at least 8" x 11". The bulk fabric approval is only final once the testing
meets HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH requirements.
Notions, trims, and accessories
The vendor must submit all notions, trims, and accessories that will be used for production together
for approval on the Notions, Trims, and Accessories Sheet. The form must be filled out completely
with all relevant information.
It is vendor’s responsibility to ensure all trims and accessories used in making of garments must be
compatible to overall garment and meet the HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue
OFF 5TH requirements.
Testing Program for HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH
Laboratory testing is a key mile stone at pre-production stage. Intertek Testing Services (ITS) is
nominated agency to conduct 3rd party laboratory testing. Testing is vendor/mill paid.
Vendors are required to make their fabric mills aware of HBC fabric standards and fabric mills are to
ensure that the fabric meets the standards before shipping the bulk fabric to garment maker.
Please refer to Laboratory Test Request Form (TRF) in appendices to be submitted along with required fabric /
garment sample to ITS lab. Please fill the details of fabric and/or garment in the required section of TRF and
submit to ITS lab along with style and trim detail sheet from tech packs.
Fabric and garment samples submitted will be tested to proposed care instructions from Chapter 4 or as per
care information provided in the tech. pack.
For testing results that are passing to the proposed care, the Vendor will use those care instructions for bulk
production of labeling.
For testing that fails the proposed care instructions, there will be a dialogue to determine an alternative
customer & product friendly care. The vendor may be requested to retest the new care instructions.
In cases were the same fabrication is used for multiple styles with different delivery dates, styles with first
deliveries will be submitted for full fabric and garment testing, and styles with subsequent deliveries will be
tested to garment test packages only.
For HBC and L&T styles with multiple fabrics, all fabric samples will be tested for fabric test
parameters. The garment will be tested for testing parameters applicable for garment.
For Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH, fabric and garment are tested
together at the pre-production stage.
Vendor to resolve any quality issues before bulk production if there is a failed test report from the
Intertek lab. Vendor is to re-submit the samples to Intertek Lab, to conduct re-testing for failed
79 | P a g e
parameters. Vendor will reference the original failed report number on the re-testing Test Request
Form (TRF).
After lab testing on fabric and garment is passed and Pre-production sample is approved as per
requirements, vendor may proceed for bulk garment production. It is imperative that a pass lab test
reports are available before starting of garment production.
Inspection and Shipment process and policies continue as per the current practice.
Sample Submission:
Fabric Stage
Bulk fabric must be as per HBC and L&T contracted fiber content, fabric construction and finishes.
For each submission of bulk fabric to be tested, a full width of minimum 3 meter long sample is
required for the darkest colour way. Additional colours are submitted in 1 meter full width. For all
private and captive brands under all banners all colour ways need to be tested.
For knit and woven fabric containing spandex an additional meter of full width in the darkest color
is required.
Where a style is colour blocked the fabric is to be tested to colour blocked testing performance,
with each colour in equal proportion being sewn together and submitted with the bulk fabrics
submission and the TRF must be checked off for colour blocked style.
Special functional and performance finishes i.e. wrinkle resist and water repellency etc., must be
declared on the TRF for lab to apply additional tests as applicable.
Garment Stage
Adult’s Styles: 2-3 Garment pieces in fit size and 4 Garments for sweaters testing packages
1-2 Additional garments may be required if Optional testing is to be conducted for special claims.
Children’s Styles: 3 garments per styles without Components in fit size and 5 garments for sweater
without components are required to be submitted with lab.
6-garments for styles with components in fit size and for styles with more than one print design submit
one additional garment for testing on scrapable surfaces. Children sleepwear may require additional sample as
per sizing Tables from the Children’s Sleepwear Flammability Requirement Guidelines in this
manual.
Garment samples must be made in bulk fabric, and all actual production trims and accessories.
Testing procedure for Bulk Fabric and Pre-production garments
The responsibilities outlined below are divided by stake holder and are to be carried out at different
development and production stages. :
80 | P a g e
Vendor’s Responsibilities:
Vendor is to provide a correctly completed Test Request Form (TRF) and it must accompany all sample
submissions to the designated laboratory for both fabric piece goods testing and preproduction garment
testing.

Vendor is responsible for the quality and performance of trims.

Pre-production testing is required before actual production begins. Garments must
incorporate actual production fabric and trims.

Vendor to ensure that every garment supplied must have a correct care label sewn-in.

Vendors provide the required number of samples (as mentioned above) to the nearest
Intertek lab at the earliest possible stage with completed TRF, Tech pack cover sheet and
trims sheet. Insufficient sample size and incomplete TRF may delay lab testing.
Lab’s Responsibilities:
• Fast Turnaround Time and conducts tests in accordance with HBC test protocols and regulatory
requirements as applicable
•
At the conclusion of testing, ensure the test is rated overall as “Pass or Fail”
•
Conduct accurate and reliable tests
• Promptly sends test results to Agents and Vendors and upload the test results onto the ITS
Datalink
• At time of fabric testing, the proposed care instruction is drawn from the Care Label
Instructions in Chapter 4 and ITS should ensure that the care on the TRF matches. Intertek should
advise on the care instructions’ suitability from test results.
• Intertek is to retain the tested specimen on behalf of HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks
Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH as per specified retention timelines.
• For Garments, if vendor needs to contact local Intertek office, and requests the sample to be
returned to the vendor at vendor’s expense. Intertek will with notification to QA team and return
the ½ failed samples to Li & Fung/Vendor.
Li & Fung’s Responsibilities:
• Li & Fung must clearly communicate and present appropriate fabric standard to the fabric
suppliers/garment cutters and get their agreement to adhere to the standard before confirming the
order.
• At time of fabric testing, the proposed care instruction is drawn from the Care Label
Instructions (Chapter 4) and the tech pack, and L&F should ensure that they are advised to Intertek
on the TRF. Intertek should advise on the care instructions’ suitability from test results.
Testing frequency for repeat orders
For repeat or automatic replenishment garments, bulk fabric and garment will be tested as follows:

If the same colours and fabrication are used within a year, the original lab test will serve as a
standing document.
81 | P a g e

If the automatic replenishment runs for more than one (1) year, the vendor will provide a
new test.

If there is a new finish or colour, new colorfastness tests will be required.

If there is a change in the country of origin or fabric supplier, a new test will be required.
Testing Packages and Prices
Bulk Woven Tops
(prices in USD)
Bulk Woven Tops
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$175.00
$175.00
$385.00
$385.00
$385.00
 Bulk Fabric for HBC and L&T
 Bulk Garment and Fabric for Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH
This test package includes the following:


















Fiber Identification*
Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)#
Care label verification (at no additional charge)
Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning
Appearance Rating
Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning
Colorfastness to Crocking
Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties]
Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Light
Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2)
Tensile / Bursting Strength
Tear Strength
Seam Slippage
Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength
Pilling Resistance-30 minutes
Optional Tests for Woven Tops, see additional tests price list






Colorfastness to Burnt Gas (Rayon and Acetate only – 1 cycle)
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only)
Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color)
Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only)
SA Rating - after 5X laundering (Required For No Iron, Wrinkle Free/Resist, and Easy
Care Products Only) No Iron (NI) Wrinkle Free & Resist/Easy Care
Soil Release-after 5x laundering (Required for Soil Release Fabrics Only)
82 | P a g e









Stain Resistant/Repellent After 10x Laundering (Required for stain resistant/repellent
fabrics including Teflon and nano-care)
Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only)
Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater)
Formaldehyde Content
pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments)
Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only)
Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only)
Attachment strength (Children’s only)
For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01
for Kids and K02 for adults
*Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by
microscopic method.
# Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616
Bulk Woven Bottoms
(prices in USD)
Bulk Woven Bottoms
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$175.00
$175.00
$410.00
$410.00
$410.00
Flammability (Non-exempt fabric) #

Care label verification (Existing Care Label Review at no additional charge)


Appearance Rating









Leather Thickness


Tear Strength

Seam Slippage


Optional Tests at additional charges see additional tests price list



83 | P a g e














For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02& K01

*Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional
Fiber and by microscopic method.
# Additional
charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616
Bulk Fabric Outerwear
(prices in USD)
Bulk Woven Outerwear
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$175.00
$175.00
$380.00
$380.00
$380.00
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Fiber Identification *
Care label verification (at no additional charge)
Appearance Rating
84 | P a g e
•
•
•
•
Tear Strength
Seam Slippage















*Fiber Identification of film and/or coating where applicable
Water Repellent, Spray test (all coated)
Water Resistance, Rain test (when claimed)
Water Proof (claimed only) fabric in fabric testing, seams in garment testing
For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 K01
PVC or PVC/PU Coated or Laminated Lightweight Jackets
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
Adult Garment without lining
$107.00
$107.00
$202.00
$202.00
$202.00
Adult Garment with lining
$137.00
$137.00
$232.00
$232.00
$232.00
Children’s Garment without lining and
without components
$107.00
$107.00
$202.00
$202.00
$202.00
Children’s Garments without lining and with
components
$137.00
$137.00
$232.00
$232.00
$232.00
Children’s Garments with lining and with
components
$255.00
$255.00
$255.00
$255.00
$255.00
Total Lead Content of PVC or Applied
Surface Coatings (for Children’s Garments )
$24.00
$24.00
$43.00
$43.00
$43.00
(prices in USD)
# Additional
85 | P a g e
Bulk Woven Intimate Apparel
(prices in USD)
Intimate Apparel
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$165.00
$165.00
$385.00
$385.00
$385.00

















Appearance Rating
Tear Strength
Seam Slippage









# Additional
86 | P a g e
Bulk Woven Suiting
(prices in USD)
Bulk Woven Suiting
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$165.00
$165.00
$410.00
$410.00
$410.00
This test includes the following:

















Appearance Rating
Tear Strength
Seam Slippage


Stain Resistant/Repellent After 10x Laundering

(Required for stain resistant/repellent fabrics including Teflon and nano-care)








Additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for
Kids and K02 for adults


# Additional
87 | P a g e
Woven Fabrics-Additional Color Testing
(prices in USD)
Additional Color Testing
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$52.00
$52.00
$145.00
$145.00
$145.00
Optional Test at additional charges, see additional tests price list







See Additional Tests price list
Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)*
For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada (the Bay styles combined
with L&T/SAKS) refer addendum K01 for Kids and K02 for adults
Bulk Knit Tops
(prices in USD)
Bulk Knit Tops
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$175.00
$175.00
$385.00
$385.00
$385.00
















Care Label Verification ( Review at No Additional Charge)
Appearance Rating


88 | P a g e


Lead Content (scrapeable surfaces only)







# Additional
Bulk Knit Bottoms
(prices in USD)
Bulk Knit Bottoms
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$175.00
$175.00
$410.00
$410.00
$410.00
 Bulk garment and Fabric for Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH
 Fiber Identification*


Care Label Verification ( Review at No Additional Charge)


Appearance Rating




Colorfastness to Perspiration




Fabric Weight (g/m2., oz./yd.2)









89 | P a g e





# Additional
Bulk Knit Intimate Apparel
(prices in USD)
Bulk Knit Intimate Apparel
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$165.00
$165.00
$385.00
$385.00
$385.00
















Care Label Verification (No Additional Charge)
Appearance Rating
Fabric Weight (g/m2, oz./yd.2)
Seam Bursting Strength
Optional test for Intimate Apparel, see additional tests price list








90 | P a g e



# Additional
Knit Fabrics- Additional Colorway
(prices in USD)
Additional Colorway
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$52.00
$52.00
$145.00
$145.00
$145.00
The additional color way test package includes the following:







Optional Additional Color Test, see additional tests price list


Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)*








* Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616
91 | P a g e
The following test packages are for Pre-Production stage Garments with additional
fabric yardage.
Product Testing
Leather and Suede
(prices in USD)
Leather & Suede
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$230.00
$230.00
$506.00
$506.00
$506.00


Care label verification (Review at no additional charge)

Dimensional Stability in: Dry-cleaning or Professional leather clean

Appearance Rating



Colorfastness to Profession Leather Cleaning

Leather Thickness

Seam Slippage

Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength , Seam Strength of Binding


Adhesion of Finish

Blocking of Finish
Optional Testing for Leather/Suede, see additional tests price list







Nickel content of metal (Quantitative)
Resistance to Corrosion
Sharp Point Sharp Edge (Children’s only)
For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02
for adults
Fiber and by microscopic method
92 | P a g e
Sweaters
(prices in USD)
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
Sweaters
$165.00
$165.00
$365.00
$365.00
$365.00
This testing package includes the following:















Care label verification ( Review at no additional charge)
Dimensional Stability in: Laundering, Dry-cleaning
Appearance Rating
Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength, Seam Strength of Binding











Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) / Total Weight (lbs. Per dozen)
Pile Retention (velvet, velveteen only)
for adults
Product Testing - Cashmere (Adult and Children’s Items)
Asia
(prices in USD)
Fabric Test Per Lot
AATCC 20 / 20a
$119.00
Fabric Test By Color
AATCC 8, 132, 15, and ASTM D3512
$64.00
Garment Test By Style
AATCC 158 / 179, 158 and ASTM D3786
$61.50
Garment Test Per Lot
16 CFR 1610 / 1615 and 1616
$30.50
Package Price for whole protocol - Asia
$220.00
93 | P a g e
*Sampling Size:
For fabric test, 3 yards of fabric in full width direction is needed. 1 yard of fabric in full width is
required for each additional color way. For Garment, 3 pieces of finished garments are needed.
*Pricing available upon request, and location capability.

For additional Testing package for Canada (refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02
for adults
Garment Test Package 1(Garment stage Testing for HBC and L&T Vendors)
Actual pre-production garment including all actual trims
(prices in USD)
Adults Woven & Knits
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$75.00
$75.00
$237.00
$237.00
$237.00

Dimensional Stability and Appearance in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning

Garment Skew

Optional Test


Component operability
For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum J-01 and K02 for adults
The package includes testing of additional Canadian regulatory requirements:









Label Review
Labeling – Packaging
Fiber Content Label
CA No. or Dealer Identity
Country of Origin
The Language of Inscription (mandatory in Quebec)
Labeling of Pre-Packaged Consumer Textile Articles
Care Label
Stuffed Articles (if applicable)
94 | P a g e
FLAMMABILITY

Flammability – General Wearing Apparel (Not sleepwear)
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
Adults Woven & Knits additional tests for
Canada (K02) Including Flammability test 16
CFR 1610 for the 1st fabric.
$55
$55
$105
$105
$105
Special price for individual test Flammability
Test
$38
$38
$75
$75
$75
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
(prices in USD)
Garment Test Package 2
Actual pre-production garment including all actual trims
(prices in USD)
Asia
Children’s Garments either Knit or Woven
$85.00
$85.00
$250.00
$250.00
$250.00
Safety Tests
$105.00
$105.00
$237.00
$237.00
$237.00
The Children’s Garments Test package includes the following:

Dimensional Stability and Appearance in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning

Garment Skew


Flammability (sleepwear only)*

Children’s Garment will require safety review where designs have components
The Children’s Safety Test package includes the following:

Drawstrings

Sharp Points / Sharp Edges (Children’s only)

Small Parts (Buttons and attachments)


Lead/ Heavy Metal Content ☼
Optional test
 Additional Canadian testing requirements for Kids wear styles see J-02, J-03 & K01
The package includes testing of additional Canadian regulatory requirements:

Label Review

Labeling – Packaging

Fiber Content Label

CA No. or Dealer Identity

Country of Origin

The Language of Inscription (mandatory in Quebec)

Labeling of Pre-Packaged Consumer Textile Articles

Care Label

Stuffed Articles (if applicable)
95 | P a g e

Garment Size

SAFETY
Drawstrings on Children’s Upper Outerwear



FLAMMABILITY
Flammability – General Wearing Apparel (Not sleepwear)
Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Tight Fitting Sleepwear)
Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Other than tight fitting sleepwear)
ANALYTICAL
☼Total Lead in paint or similar surface coating for children’s products (＜14 yrs)
☼Total Lead in baby bibs or similar products that are brought into contact with the user's mouth
in the course of normal use
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$70
$70
$105
$105
$105
Special price for individual test
Drawstrings
$33
$33
$64
$64
$64
Flammability- General Wearing Apparel
$38
$38
$75
$75
$75
Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Tight Fitting)
$38
$38
$94
$94
$94
Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Other than
tight fitting sleepwear) - After 1 Wash
Total Lead
$57
$57
$109
$109
$109
$24
$24
$56
$56
$56
$38.00
$38.00
$206.00
$206.00
$206.00
(prices in USD)
Woven & Knits additional testing for Canada
(K01) Including Flammability test 16 CFR 1610
for the 1st fabric.
Tight Fitting Sleepwear
 Please Note: Flame retardant finishes are not permitted on any Hudson’s Bay Company, Lord &
Taylor or SAKS merchandise without prior approval from Global Sourcing.
Children’s Sleepwear Testing: Additional samples and tech pack should be submitted to Intertek
for children’s sleepwear flammability testing and garment review as follows:
a) Tight Fitting Sleepwear: 1 prototype garment in each size (infants up to 7 kg, polo pajamas,
sleepers, etc) + Spec. Pack
b) Loose Fitting Sleepwear: 2 prototype garments from bulk fabric and production quality seams in
size 14X or largest size in the range for size ranges 0 to 6 (includes night gowns, nightshirts, bath
robes, pajamas, baby doll pajamas in sizes up to and including 14X) + spec. pack.
96 | P a g e
Accessories-Ties, Scarves, Gloves, Socks
(prices in USD)
Accessories - Ties, Scarves, Gloves, Socks
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$145.00
$145.00
$305.00
$305.00
$305.00













Care label verification (Label Review at no additional charge)
Dimensional Stability in: Laundering, Dry-cleaning
Appearance Rating
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Formaldehyde Content (Children’s only)
Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) / Total Weight (lbs. per dozen)
Sock Fit Test [Sock only]
Abrasion Resistance [Socks only]
For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum K01 & J-02 for Kids and K02
for adults
*Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by
microscopic method
Required Sample Sizes:
Scarves: 3 garments + one yard of fabric in darkest color way.
Mittens: 3 garments + one yard of fabric in darkest color way.
Gloves: 3 garments + one yard of fabric in darkest color way.
Socks: 3 pairs in darkest color way.
Tights/Pantyhose: 3 pairs in darkest color way.
Children’s Accessory Items with attached components: 6 garments required + one yard of
fabric in darkest color way.
97 | P a g e
Accessories-Hats and Caps
(prices in USD)
Accessories- Hats & Caps
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$180.00
$180.00
$375.00
$375.00
$375.00















Care label verification (Review at no additional charge)
Dimensional Stability in: Laundering, Dry-cleaning or Professional leather clean
Appearance Rating







Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) / Total Weight (lbs. Per dozen)
for adults
* Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616
Fiber and by microscopic method
Required Sample Sizes:
Hats: 3 garments + one yard of fabric in darkest color way.
Children’s Accessory Items with attached components: 6 garments required + one yard of fabric in
darkest color way.
Straw hat: no laundering performed
98 | P a g e
Accessories-Handbags, Backpacks, Totes, Duffle bags
Asia
(prices in USD)
Handbags, Backpacks, Totes, Duffle Bags (HL&A #01)
$195.00















Overall Dimensions Length x Width x Height
Fabric weight
Total weight
Number of Compartments (Main, External and Interior Pockets and other features)
Labeling review
Flammability (CCPSA Textile Flammability Regulation)
Lead in Coating (children’s product)
Material Defect
Resistance To Corrosion (Metal Components
Resistance To Flexing: (Vinyl)
Strength Properties (Loading Capacity, Handle and Strap Strength)
Strength and Operability for Closures (all snaps, zippers and buttons)
Additional Tests at additional charges,
•




Colorfastness to Water (Contrast Colourblocked products)
Total Lead in PVC Vinyl (Children Only)
Heavy Metal (Canada) (Children items, for coating and painting)
Small Parts
Sharp Edges & Points
Additional Tests for USA requirements at additional charges





Flammability 16 CFR 1500.44
Tracking label for children’s products
Lead in accessible components
CA Prop 65
Formaldehyde Emissions
Required sample size: 5 full samples for basic package test
99 | P a g e
Accessories-Belts
Asia
(prices in USD)
$130.00
BELTS (HL&A # 03)
Tests included in package
•
Attachement Strength (Buckle)
•
Stitch Reinforcement Strength
•
Hole Pullout Strength
•
Fabric Strength
•
•
•
Resistance to Corrosion (Metal Components)
•
Labeling review
Additional tests if applicable with additional testing cost
•
Heavy Metal Content Testing in Surface Coating Material (For Children products only—CCPSA)
•
Flammability of textile products
US regulatory tests if applicable, at additional costs Sharp Points / Edges (children’s product)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Small Parts (children’s product)
CA Prop 65 (Mandatory in state California)
Lead Content of Paints or Similar Surface Coating (children’s product)
Lead Content of Accessible Component (children’s product)
Toxics in Packaging
Flammability 16 CFR 1610
Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR1611
Tracking label for children’s products.
Required Sample size: 4 Belts per style In a set of same fabrication only one item will be tested with the full
test package, in the darkest colorway. Additional colorway will be tested under additional test package
Accessories -Wallet and Small leather goods
(prices in USD)
Wallet and Small Leather goods (HL&A#5)
Asia
$240.00
Tests included in package
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Colourfastness to Crocking (for shell and lining)
Colourfastness to Perspiration for shell
Colourfastness to Light for Shell (for light color)
Resistance to Corrosion for Metal Components (if applicable)
Durability of Hooks and Loops Fastener (if applicable)
Flexing Resistance for Shell
Abrasion Resistance for Shell
Tensile Strength for Shell
Seam Strength (for functional)
Attachment Strength
Labeling Review
100 | P a g e
US regulatory tests if applicable, at additional costs
•
•
•
•
Lead Content of Paints or Similar Surface Coating
Toxic Elements in Packaging Components
CA Prop 65 (mandatory in state California)
Formaldehyde Emissions (California, USA, Document Review)
Additional test if applicable and requested with additional testing cost
•
•
•
Children’s Product review. Includes; Small Parts, Sharp Points, Sharp Edges
Colourfastness to Perspiration
Sample size:
•
•
Finished product: 4 pieces, plus a swatch of Shell fabric or material- 4×A4, and a swatch of
Lining fabric or material: 1×A4
For coatings 0.5 g of coating colour
Accessories- Umbrella
prices in USD)
Umbrella (HL & A # 06)
Asia
Turkey
USA
Canada
EU
$245.00
$00.00
$00.00
$00.00
$00.00
Testing conducted as part of testing package
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Fibre Content
Textile Flammability
Sharp Points / Edges
Workmanship
Defects
Attachment Strength (Handle)
Operability
Spring Force At Handle
Attachment Strength (Wire Tip)
Seam Strength
Seam Slippage
Water Repellency
Water Resistance
Corrosion Resistance (metal component)
Additional US regulatory test with additional testing cost
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Sharp Points / Edges (children’s product)
Small Parts (children’s product)
Flammability of Solids (children’s product)
Formaldehyde Emissions (California) (Document Review)
101 | P a g e
Required Sample size: 3 samples plus 1 yard x full width of fabric for basic package test.
0.5 g per packaging material or valid document
0.5 g of coating
Accessories-Clutches, Small purses, Cosmetic bags and Makeup cases
Asia
(prices in USD)
Clutches, Small purses, Cosmetic Bags and Make-up cases (HL & A # 07)
$216.00
Testing conducted as part of testing package
•
Overall Length (cm.)x width(cm)x Height(cm)
•
Number of Compartmens (Main, Interior, External, & other features)
•
Flammability (SOR/2011-22)
•
Material Defect
•
Resistance To Corrosion (Metal Components)
•
Resistance To Flexing: (Vinyl)
•
Handle / Strap Strength
•
Fabric/Material Tensile strength
•
Seam strength
•
Tear strength
•
Attachment Strength
•
Snapping / Unsnapping Force
•
Button Attachment Strength
•
Zipper Performance testing, Operability, Crosswise strength, Puller attachment strength.
•
•
•
Labeling review
Additional tests if applicable with additional costs
•
•
•
•
•
Total Lead in paint or similar surface coating for children’s products (＜14 yrs)
Flammability
Sharp Points / Sharp Edges
Small Parts
Colourfastness to Perspiration
US regulatory test with additional testing cost
•
•
•
•
•
•
CA Prop 65 (Mandatory in state California)
Lead in Coating
Toxics in Packaging
Flammability of Solids (children’s product)
Sharp Points /Small parts / Edges (children’s product)
102 | P a g e
Accessories -Jewelry
(prices in USD)
Jewelry (jewelry # 04)
Asia
$110.00
Testing conducted /as part of testing package
•
Claim Verifications
•
Use Labeling
•
Instructions
•
Workmanship
•
Defects
•
Sharp Points / Edges
•
Dimensions (L x W x H)
•
Weight
•
Functionality
•
Tensile Strength
•
Clasp Tensile Strength
•
Impact Resistance
•
Labeling review
Additional test if applicable with additional testing cost
•
Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Label
•
Stretch & Recovery (Elastic items only)
•
Flammability of Textile Fibre
•
Corrosion Resistance (Metal components)
•
Colorfastness to Crocking (textile & leather)
•
Colorfastness to Perspiration (textile & leather)
•
Nickel Release (products with hypo allergenic claims)
•
Band Tensile Strength (silicone rubber type products)
US regulatory test with additional testing cost
•
Jewelry Label Claims (If applicable)
•
Leather Good Labeling (if applicable)
•
Lead Content in Jewelry (Mandatory in state California)
•
•
Formaldehyde Emissions (California) (Document Review)
Sample size: 4 samples for basic package test. Sample to be submitted with final packaging and instruction
manual.
103 | P a g e
Additional Tests and Individual Test Price List
The below list includes test for specialty performance claims and general performance.
(prices in USD)
USA, Canada, EU
Asia, India, Turkey,
Mexico and the
Dominican Republic
J03 (Including Flammability test 16 CFR 1610 for the
1st fabric
$210
$95
Drawstring/Ties review
$64
$33
Flammability of Vinyl Film
$75
$65
Cost: On quote
Cost: On quote
Additional Colorway Colorfastness Testing
With Original Submit
Additional Colourway Colourfastness Testing as a
Separate Submit
$50.00
$35.00
$71.00
$57.0
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swim)
$45.00
$20.00
Colorfastness to Sea Water (swim)
$45.00
$14.00
$45.00
$13.00
Colorfastness to light
$50.00
$20.00
Color Block Polyester and Blends.
$45.00
$17.00
a) colorfastness to water (contrast
$32.00
$11.00
b) colorfastness to washing
$45.00
$17.00
Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes (bras): whites and
pastels only
$60.00
$40.00
Fiber Content – microscopic such as wool/cashmere
$233.00 ($86.00
for each additional)
$71.00 Single Fiber
CA Prop 65: Applicable Section from Intertek
Protocol for CA Prop. 65
a) dye transfer in storage
Color Block Styles
$143.00 (2 wool
fibers)
$100.00 (2 natural
cellulosic blends)
104 | P a g e
(prices in USD)
USA, Canada, EU
Mexico and the
Dominican Republic
Chemical Identification 3rd and subsequent
fibers/fiber
$55.00
$22.00
Flammability (USA) non-exempt fabric
$75.00
$30.00
Flammability Canada all apparel wearing textiles
$75.00
$38.00
Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Tight Fitting)
$94.00
$38.00
Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Other than tight
fitting sleepwear) - After 1 Wash
$109.00
$57.00
Fabric weight (g/m2, oz/yd2 or Total weight of
lb/doz)
$35.00
$11.00
Pilling (random tumble)
$59.00
$15.00
Seams Slippage
$47.00
$36.00
Abrasion Resistance Martindales (ASTM D4966-98)
$71.00
$57.00
Pile Retention Taber (ASTM D4685)
$60.00
$19.00
Accelerator (AATCC 93)
$59.00
$12.00
Stretch & Recovery ASTM D3107 (Wovens) / ASTM
D2594 (Knits) /STM D4964 (Knit Swim & Active
Wear, Intimates & Apparel)
Durable Press Appearance (AATCC 143) and Surface
Appearance (AATCC 124)
3 Washes
5 Washes
$75.00
$29.00
$43.00
(fabric/garment)
$66.00
(fabric/garment)
$19.00 (fabric)
$29.00 (garment)
$46.00 (fabric)
$54.00 (garment)
$15.00
$11.00
$ 75.00
$ 90.00
$ 63.00
$ 75.00
Soil Release: Oily Stain (AATCC 130) (original and
after 5 washes)
$ 65.00
$ 44.00
Oil Repellency (AATCC 118)Original & after 5X Wash
$ 112.00
$ 86.00
Stain Resistant/Repellent (AATCC 118 or 193)
Original and after 10x Laundering (Required for
stain resistant/repellent fabrics including Teflon and
nano-care)
$ 290.00
$ 100.00
Appearance after washing for Two piece set ( in
same color / fabric with no appliqué, embroidery,
lining etc)
Appearance after laundering on 2nd piece
Durability of Flocking
a) fabric
b) garment
105 | P a g e
(prices in USD)
USA, Canada, EU
Water Repellency – Spray Test (AATCC 22) (original
and after 5 washes)
Water Repellency – Spray Test (AATCC 22) (original
and after 3 washes)
Formaldehyde
a) Spot Test
b) AATCC 112
c) JIS L 1041
Mexico and the
Dominican Republic
$ 115.00
$ 59.00
$ 50.00
$ 12.00
$ 100.00
$ 225.00
$ 150.00
$ 40.00
$ 130.00
$ 53.00
$ 38.00
$ 119.00
$ 115.00
$ 13.00
$ 41.00
$ 41.00
Children’s Mechanical Safety Review
Component Attachment Test for Children’s
Garments (6 garments required) HBC004
$ 30.00
$ 100.00
$ 24.00
$ 72.00
Attachment strength (Children’s only) 16 CFR
1500.51-53 (USA) /6 readings
Total Lead Content
a) Applied Surface Coatings (Canada)
b) Applied Surfaces Coatings (USA)
c) PVC Materials
Phthalates (DEHP & DINP) in PVC Materials
$ 50.00
$ 20.00
$ 75.00
$ 30.00
$43.00
$43.00
$45.00
$300.00
$43.00
$43.00
$24.00
$147.00
$75.00
$50.00
$60.00
$40.00
Decoration Attachment to Laundering:
5 Launderings of Children’s Garments with
Rhinestones (6 garments required)
5 Launderings of Adult Bulk Garments with
Rhinestones (3 garments required) (Novelty)
Attachment Strength – Novelty Trim & Decoration
on Bras
Feather and Down Analysis
a) Content Analysis
b) Fill Power
c) Turbidity
d) Oxygen Number
e) Fat & Oil
f) Odor
g) Downproofness
$55.00
$12.00
$115.00
$50.00
$30.00
$30.00
$75.00
$30.00
$75.00
$108.00
$28.00
$38.00
$28.00
$58.00
$48.00
$48.00
Total Net Fill Weight (Polyester or Down Fill)
$50.00
$28.00
Antimicrobial
$150.00
$103.00
106 | P a g e
(prices in USD)
USA, Canada, EU
Mexico and the
Dominican Republic
Moisture Management
a) absorbency
b) Wicking
c) Moisture Vapor Transmission
$50.00
$60.00
$85.00
$18.00
$24.00
$47.00
Windproof
$70.00
$53.00
Anti-static
Water Resistant (AATCC 35)
$75.00
$125.00
$72.00
$45.00
Waterproof (AATCC 127)
$65.00
$29.00
Sock Fit Test [Sock only] (L&T/SAKS)
$120.00
$45.00
Abrasion Resistance Socks (ASTM 3886)
$150.00
$57.00
Unbreakable Button Claim
a) Button centre strength
Initial 5 buttons of same type.
Each additional set of 5
$55.00
$30.00
$28.00
$19.00
b) Button Impact Strength
Initial 10 buttons of same type.
$30.00
$55.00
$13.00
$28.00
Each additional set of 5
UV (includes 20 washes & 100 hours of light)
$26.00
$950.00
$13.00
$400.00
Resistance to Snagging (swim/exercise only)
a) face
b) face & back
Bonding Strength (includes 5 launderings)
$45.00
$60.00
$125.00
$33.00
$41.00
$63.00
$50.00
$35.00
$200.00
$28.00
$18.00
$140.00
$45.00
$18.00
White Fabrics
a) phenolic yellowing
b) pH
Fade Resistance:(Dimensional Change is measured
after 3 washes & Shade Change/Staining are
evaluated after 3 & 10 washes.) When required,
this test is performed in conjunction with
Dimensional Change
Care label verification (Existing Care Label Review at
no additional charge)
Retest
Minimum Report Charge
Rush Service (3 working days)
Local Price
$50.00
50% surcharge
25% Discount from
Local Price
$30.00
40% surcharge
107 | P a g e
CHAPTER 7
Garment
Inspection
Criteria
108 | P a g e
109 | P a g e
In order to schedule an inspection, the vendor must submit an inspection Request Form to the
HBC, L&T , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH nominated inspection agency
about 7 to 8 days prior to inspection date. Inspection form must be completed in all respect and
submitted along with a copy of the Purchase Order (PO). The inspection process policy is as
follows:
1. Only nominated agency or agent will conduct third party pre-shipment inspection for
softlines commodities.
2. Vendors are responsible for paying fees associated with the inspections.
3. Inspector will check records for vendors approved social compliance status and passed lab
test reports prior to inspection
4. Once the inspection takes place, the inspection agency will produce an Inspection Report
and grade the shipment as either 'pass' or 'fail.' If the shipment passes, the inspection agent
will issue a Certificate of Inspection.
5. If the grade is 'fail,' the shipment will be rejected. Rejection does not necessarily mean
cancellation: a vendor/factory may request a subsequent inspection after taking remedial
action to correct the problems identified.
6. For inspections using nominated third party agency, refer to chapter 10 –Contact List of
Intertek Inspection services.
Inspection Standards
The inspection standard used by HBC, L&T,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH is
International Sampling and Inspection by Attribute Method ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-1993. It is the most
widely used industry sampling plan and includes sampling sizes and the criteria for accepting or
rejecting the shipment
Lot Size
Sample Size Maximum Number Defective Units Allowed
2.5
151-280
32
2
281-500
50
3
501-1,200
80
5
1,201-3,200
125
7
3,201-10,000
200
10
10,001-35,000
315
14
35,001-150,00
500
21
Acceptable quality level:
Acceptable quality level (AQL) defines the number of defective units that result in an inspection
either passing or failing. The AQL adopted by HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth
Avenue OFF 5TH is 2.5 for major and minor defects.
No distinction will be made between products with one or many defects: each defective product is
only counted once. However, zero critical defects will be accepted (Refer to defect classifications on
next page.)
Sampling Plan: Single Sampling
110 | P a g e
The shipment is accepted or rejected on the basis of one sampling and no additional sampling will
be allowed. No further inspections will be conducted unless corrective actions have been taken as
instructed.
Sample size: Normal Inspection Level II
Sample size is the number of products in the sampling specified by the sampling plan. Normal
Inspection Level II, under ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-1993, is the sampling plan.
Defect classifications
A defect is defined as any flaw (major or minor) that is likely to result in customer dissatisfaction,
reduce the usability of the item for its intended purposes, make the item less saleable, or is a
departure from established standards or specifications of the purchase order.
A critical defect is one which could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using
the product, or a defect that violates legal regulations and the policy is “Zero tolerance” for critical
defects.
Inspection criteria:
The following is the list of defects to which garment inspections will be conducted. These standard
terms should be used in all communications. A product found with any of these defects will be
classified as “defective.”
Defects in workmanship are classified as “major or minor”.
Major Defect – renders the garment unacceptable, affecting the saleability, durability or
appearance to the point where a customer return is justified.
Minor Defect – does not render the garment unacceptable to the point of justifying a
customer return. A minor defect does, however, indicate substandard workmanship and highlights
area in need of improvement.
Product conformity (check against approved Sample and Specification)
1.
Overall appearance
2.
Size/Capacity/weight
3.
Does not satisfactorily complete testing
4.
Garment Shape
Fabric defects
1.
Any holes, broken yarn, drop stitches, broken ends, runs, mis-weaves, mis-draws or mispicks
2.
Slubs, knots, snags or pulled yarn
3.
Noticeable/significant oil spots, soil or other stains
4.
Mis-prints, broken pattern, poor print registration, colour migration, colour out, uneven
printing or smear
5.
Noticeable dye spots or streaks
6.
Shading or dye lot deviation within garment
7.
Bowed or biased fabric exceeding requirement
8.
Conspicuous pilling, corrugation or roll-up creases
9.
Fabric weight more than five (5) per cent below contracted weight
10.
Visible float length on Jacquards
111 | P a g e
11.
12.
Colored fly; mixed fillings or foreign yarns weaved or knitted into fabric
Visible creases or lines resulted from needle lines, permanent press, compactor creases, barre
or light/heavy ends
Cleanness defects
1.
Spots or stains, or those that when removed leave a “ring” or other surface marks
2.
Hanging threads or loose thread clusters that are not removed from both the inside and the
right side of the garment
3.
Mildew or odor within packages
4.
Insects or foreign bodies found in packages
5.
Failure to air garment adequately prior to packing
Laundry/treatment defects
1.
Wash, treatment or finishes that do not conform to specification
2.
Hand feel either harsh or flimsy, differing from standard
3.
Bleached spots, streak marks or uneven treatment
4.
Pilling or uneven sand or stone blasting
5.
Strong chemical or bleach odor from poor rinses
6.
Colour or shade variation resulting from laundry batches
7.
Bruises, fraying or raw edges resulting from heavy sand or stone washes
Pressing defects
1.
Burn or scorch marks
2.
Shine marks or glazes on right side of garment
3.
Press marks resulting from the use of clamps or other holding devices
4.
Un-pressed and poor pressing objectively affecting seam and hanger appeal
5.
Front/back creases distinctly uneven in length or improperly placed, deviating from
specification
Stitching defects
1.
Stitch type or construction technique other than specified
2.
Stitches per inch differing from specification
3.
Insecure ends of stitching, poor back or latch tacked
4.
Untidy or poor mending stitch, joins or repairs
5.
Skipped stitches or broken or insecure stitch that may ravel
6.
Floating stitch resulting from poor tension
7.
Run-offs in top-stitching
8.
Distortion and excessive cluster of thread locked in stitches
9.
Raw edges showing when they should be covered
10.
Poor thread match
11.
Incorrect thread size or thread type
12.
Needle cuts resulting from blunt needles or incorrect needle type/size
13.
Needle chew or dog feed abrasion frays
112 | P a g e
Seam defects
1.
Incorrect seam construction
2.
Seam finishes that are not back-tacked or are insecurely tacked
3.
Tight thread tension causing thread to break under stress
4.
Loose thread tension causing seams to grin
5.
Seams those are conspicuously twisted, roped or pleated
6.
Excessive puckering
7.
Measurements out of tolerance due to stitch margin variation or excessive allowance into
seam
8.
Stretched seam caused by poor handling
9.
Eased seam where uneven lengths are forced into seaming
10.
Open seam
11.
Raw edges caught outside seam
12.
Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching
Collar/lapel/cuff setting defects
1.
Excessive fullness or twisting between top and under collar
2.
Distinctively ill-shaped or non-conformity to specification
3.
Uneven or unbalanced right to left collar
4.
Uneven length between collar points
5.
Poor top-stitching or uneven, crooked, or run-off edge or top stitch
6.
Unbalanced or poorly set collar
7.
Loose thread, or lint trapped between top and under collar
8.
Incompatible interlining
9.
Poor fusing, budding or strike through adhesive
10.
Misplaced buttons or buttonholes
11.
Twisting, or ropy cord, pipe or bind
Front/back bodice defects
1.
Uneven front opening/placket length
2.
Poor front opening closure resulting from thread tension or pulling from facing
3.
Fullness between opening and facing
4.
Facing hanging from inside of garment
5.
Misplaced buttons or buttonholes, or poor alignment of button and buttonholes
6.
Misplaced pockets
7.
Uneven, or high/low pocket placements
8.
Uneven dart length
9.
Misplaced dart
10.
Poor tapering of dart
11.
“Dimpled” dart or insecure or poor end off at dart
12.
Uneven waistband height
13.
Uneven distribution of gathering or shirring
113 | P a g e
Hem defects
1.
Uneven hem
2.
Ropy or twisted hem
3.
Length of lining in excess of shell or otherwise
4.
Open hem - raw edges or skipped/broken stitch
5.
Tight thread tension that causes thread breakage when stretched
6.
Puckered, ‘heavy bite’ or grim stitches on right side of garment
Sleeve setting and armhole defects
1.
Pleating or poor setting at the crown of sleeve
2.
Twisted arm or poor sleeve setting
3.
Visible stay stitch along seam of armhole setting
4.
Excessive puckering at under-arm and seams
5.
Under-arm misaligned with side seam
6.
Twisting of lining inside of sleeve
7.
Uneven, twisted or poorly stitched hem or sleeve opening
8.
Poor setting, twisting, fullness or pulling at facing of sleeve opening
Interlinings
1.
Strike through – adhesive melts through to face fabric
2.
Rippling – corrugation of fabric or fusing
3.
Bubbling – areas of unfused interlining/fabric
4.
Delaminating – fusing peel away from fabric
5.
Incorrect colour
Buttonhole defects
1.
Incorrect buttonhole size for button
2.
Ragged or raw edges caused by blunt blades at buttonhole
3.
Misplaced, uneven or poorly spaced buttonholes
4.
Poor match or incorrect thread colour
5.
Incorrect thread size
6.
Skip stitch or poor locking of buttonhole stitches
7.
Untrimmed thread ends
8.
Poor stitch density
9.
Distorted buttonhole or without interlining or strengthener
10.
Button/Stud and buttonhole not aligning
11.
Uncut Buttonhole/keyhole
12.
Button/Stud place upside down
Zipper defects
1.
Any malfunctioning or sub-standard quality, deviating from specification (e.g. wrong size,
coils, elements, or locks and anti-locks, weak stops or retainers or wrong finishes)
2.
Poor colour match to body or tape, or differing from approved standard
114 | P a g e
3.
4.
5.
Poor setting where part of the component may be caught in slider or stretched, wavy setting
or poor closure that may obstructs proper functioning and operability
Oxidization or discolored elements
Invisible zipper showing due to improper stitching
Embellishment
1.
Different to Approved Artwork or Sample
2.
Crooked or misaligned to Sample over 1cm
3.
Shape distortion
4.
Missing or Omitted from garment against Spec
Component and trim defects
1.
Unapproved components or trim added or substituted (bindings, inter-linings, braids, etc.)
2.
Missing component or trim from specification (bartacks, zippers, snap fasteners, eyelets,
rivets, hook and eyes, Velcro tapes, belt and belt-loops, darts, pockets, etc.)
3.
Buttons, components, or trims that are damaged, cracked, chipped, discolored,
malfunctioning or do not conform to specification
4.
Components or trims insecurely fastened or crooked
5.
Misplaced or poor setting of trims and components
6.
Exposed drill holes, chalked marks or any other form of marking
7.
Poor colour match of trims and components, shade deviation exceeding shade bar or
deviating from specification
8.
Poorly shaped darts or pockets that are not uniform or deviate from specification
9.
Incorrect size or dimension of components or trims
Packaging defects
1.
Incorrect poly bag material
2.
Wrong poly bag size
3.
Missing or incorrect poly bag prints or suffocation warming
4.
Missing or incorrect number of tapes or seals
5.
Missing or incorrect hang tags
6.
Missing or incorrect price ticket
7.
Missing or incorrect SKU number
8.
Missing or incorrect size
9.
Incorrect assortment, pre-packs or master pack
10.
Incorrect hanger
11.
Incorrect, poor or untidy folding method
12.
Incorrect carton marks
13.
Incorrect carton dimension or weight (under or exceeding specification)
14.
Poor or weak packaging or carton material
15.
Incorrect or poor carton seal
16.
Missing Plastic Bag Warning
115 | P a g e
All plastic bags with an opening in excess of 18cm (7”) in diameter must have the following warning
in English and French:
WARNING: KEEP THIS BAG AWAY FROM BABIES AND CHILDREN. DO NOT USE
IN CRIBS, BEDS, CARRIAGES OR PLAYPENS. THE THIN FILM MAY CLING TO
NOSE AND MOUTH AND PREVENT BREATHING. THIS IS NOT A TOY
ATTENTION : GARDER CE SAC HORS DE LA PORTÉE DES BÉBÉS ET DES
ENFANTS. NE PAS LE PLACER DANS UN BERCEAU, UN LIT D’ENFANT, UNE
POUSSETTE OU UN PARC. LA MINCE PELLICULE PEUT ADHÉRER AU NEZ ET
À LA BOUCHE DE FAÇON À EMPÊCHER LA RESPIRATION. CET ARTICLE N’EST
PAS UN JOUET.
Incorrect label information
1.
Missing or incorrect CA # (The Bay: 00234)
RN# (123455) for Lord & Taylor and #92087 for SAKS.
2.
Missing or incorrect country of origin
3.
Missing stuffed article act label (new material only) for fiber-filled garments. For Lord &
Taylor missing Law Label or Down & feather Law Tag Label.
4.
Label not in English and French
5.
English and French wording in the same font size
6.
Incorrect care/wash instruction
7.
Misspelled care/wash instruction
8.
Missing label or label not legible
9.
Missing care label, or fiber content does not add up to 100 per cent
Pre-Production Inspection
The vendor should ensure that all materials and components are inspected before production starts to
verify that their function and appearance meet the requirements. Performing a pre-production inspection
will help avoid problems during production.
Steps to be completed before Production

Before production can begin, the vendor must ensure that the following steps have all been
completed:

All spec packages with standardized style numbers have been received.

The fit sample and spec details have been approved by the Technologist, Global Sourcing.

Lab dips have been approved.

Strike-offs and embroidery have been approved.

Bulk fabrics have been approved.

Notions, trims, and accessories have been approved.

Bulk fabric lab tests have been approved by designated testing agency.

Any photo/ad samples requested have been sent.
116 | P a g e

The pre-production sample has been approved by the Technologist.

Labels, hang tags, and hangers are ready to be ordered.
During-process Inspection

The factory should have a during-process (DUPRO) inspection system in place that will identify and
correct deficiencies prior to the completion of manufacturing.

The DUPRO inspection is to be conducted during the early stages of production when the final
product is first coming off the production line. Its purpose is both to ensure conformance to
Purchase Order requirements and to confirm that any deficiencies noted in the pre-production
inspection have been corrected. All defects or deviations from the contracted terms should then be
corrected.

HBC, L&T,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH recommend that facilities adopt
an acceptable quality level (AQL) of 2.5 for DUPRO inspections. AQL defines the number of
defective units that result in an inspection either passing or failing, and a level of 2.5 would correspond
to the following standard:

The vendor should not make any distinction between major and minor defects, but no critical defects
(defects which could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using the product as well
as defects that violate legal regulations) are acceptable. There is a zero tolerance policy toward critical
defects
Pre-shipment Inspection
Pre-shipment inspection (PSI) is employed to ensure that products are not shipped unless all quality
requirements have been met. PSI usually takes place at the time of packing (when at least 100 per cent of
the shipment is produced and 80 per cent is packed) in accordance with International Sampling and
Inspection by Attribute Method ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-1993 (formerly known as MIL-STD-105E).
The inspected units, selected at random, will be closely examined by the nominated inspection agency that
will inspect against specifications and control samples, in respect to the following criteria:

Aesthetic Appearance

Colours/Printing

Workmanship

Labeling

Functional Aspects

Safety Aspects

Specifications
Inspection by nominated agency and inspection fee
For non Li and Fung, HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH direct
import purchase orders, the third party nominated agency (ITS) will conduct pre-shipment
inspection, vendor will pay the inspection related fees. The nominated third party inspection
117 | P a g e
agencies will submit a quote before an inspection. All quotes are based on preferential rates offered
to vendors. Inspection fees range from $145 to $220 plus incidentals where applicable. ITS local
inspection office can provide a more detailed quote. Contact information can be found at the end
of this chapter.
China Hong Kong –
Inspection agency –
Intertek Services (ITS)
Zone 1 - US$145 (including travelling) per man day
(closer to ITS offices – which covers about 3 hours
road transportation.
Zone 2 – US$220 (including travelling) per man day
(far off locations- more than 3 hours road journey trip
from ITS nearest office) only airfare will be charged
separately if applicable.
Asia - (Excluding China
and Hong Kong) –
Inspection agency –
Intertek Services ( ITS)
-US$ 200 per man-day inspection plus travelling.
-No travelling cost if factory is within range of 30 km
of ITS local office area.
-Additional actual travelling cost, if more that 30 km
from nearest ITS office and out of pocket expenses for
inspectors.
North America and
Europe Inspection
agency – Intertek
Services (ITS)
US$ 550 per man-day inspection plus travelling
(As per instructions to ITS has a target to complete the inspection in one man-day however if an inspection needs more than one man-day
depending upon size of the shipment quantities and factory location, ITS will get a pre-approval from HBC or L&T or Saks Fifth Avenue
and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH to extend the inspection. ITS will provide inspection cost quotation to the vendor prior to conducting the
inspection.)
Inspection Report & Inspection Certificate (IC)
When a final inspection is completed the inspection agency will release an Inspection Report. The
report will have a pass, fail or pending status. The inspection agency will issue an Inspection
Certificate (IC) for a “Pass” report. “Failed” and “Pending” reports are reviewed by the Technical
team who will decide on a further action. A decision can be made to cancel, re-inspect and/or
accept the order and issue the Inspection certificate(IC) to the vendor.
118 | P a g e
Example of Inspection Form
1
2
Appendix J: ITS Inspection Certificate Format
INSPECTION CERTIFICATE
3
4
MANUFACTURERS/ :
SUPPLIERS
NUMBER :
DATE :
5
QUANTITY AND DESCRIPTION :
OF MERCHANDISE
6
SHIPMENT
:
INSPECTION :
CONCLUSION :
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
A routine inspection (insert: Report Number) has been carried out on the above mentioned goods
on the basis of random samples taken out after production and compared against a
standard.**********
****************************************************************
That the goods inspected comply with the buyer specification
*****************************************************************
PREPARED AND CHECKED BY :
FOR INTERTEK TESTING
SERVICES HK LTD. - LABTEST
____________________________
GENERAL MANAGER
INSPECTION DIVISION
Routine Inspection of goods by Buyers prior to shipment shall not constitude a waiver of Sellers’ responsibility
which continues until the ultimate acceptance of the goods by the oversea consignees or their clients and it is
agreed that no time limit is set for the presentation of claims, if any, to Sellers.
119 | P a g e
CHAPTER 8
Mechanically
Attached
Fasteners
120 | P a g e
121 | P a g e
This section outlines required procedures and safety standards for Hudson’s Bay Company , Lord &
Taylor ,L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH softlines vendors working with
mechanically attached fasteners. These procedures and standards cover all garments for all genders,
and apply to all vendors and recommended suppliers. Since every contingency or eventuality cannot
be anticipated, and certain local circumstances or conditions may exist of which we have no
knowledge, vendors should take appropriate additional precautions in their own internal controls
and policies.
All defects in the attachment of mechanical fasteners are classified as critical (Pre-shipment
Inspection for more information), and when detected automatically result in the rejection of the
shipment in which they are found. There is a “Zero tolerance” policy for critical defects, and will
therefore not tolerate any deviation from the standards and guidelines outlined in this section.
Products that do not meet the requirements set out in this section will not receive approval to ship,
and we will only deal with vendors who are in full compliance and who can demonstrate that control
systems are in place and operational.
Recommended Suppliers
The following is a list of recommended suppliers of snap fasteners, buttons, rivets, eyelets, and any
other mechanically attached hardware components. Vendors may only use fasteners from one of
these suppliers.
• YKK Group (www.ykk.com) and its subsidiaries Universal Fasteners(USA, www.ykk-ufi.com),
Stocko Fasteners (Germany, www.stocko-ykk.de), and Newmax (Japan, www.ykk.co.jp), where
officially represented.
• Scovill Fasteners (www.scovill.com) and its officially appointed agencies worldwide, including
Acotex Far East (www.acotex.com).
• Prym (www.prym.com/en/html/c01.asp), and its subsidiaries, including Schaeffer, where
officially represented.
Snap requirements
All snaps (including stud, post, socket, and cap) must be metal. However, plastic caps for snaps are
allowed as long as they meet the strength requirements, as are plastic snap tapes from the
recommended suppliers.
Furthermore, it is mandated that all infant and children's wear must be passed through a conveyor
style metal detector prior to shipment to permit detection of broken needle chips, pins, staples, and
other ferromagnetic objects. All fasteners and eyelets on infant and children's wear must therefore
be non-ferrous to allow garments containing them to pass through without causing an alarm. Please
refer to Needle Control and Metal Detection section, for more information.
122 | P a g e
Pull testing
The vendor must monitor the snap attachment strength of the components being applied to
children's garments a minimum of twice per eight-hour shift - once in the morning and once in the
afternoon. The vendor must document all results
The snap attachment strength should be tested on mock garments, with fasteners attached as per the
production method.
A minimum of eight (8) attachment (male and female) strength measurements must be taken during
each inspection. The measurements should be averaged like for pinch setting testing.
If the pull test records a failure, trained personnel must stop production on the attachment machine
in question immediately, and isolate all bundles manufactured on that machine since the last
recorded pull test.
Factory personnel should recheck all procedures. If the machine is faulty and the problem cannot be
corrected internally, the recommended supplier's technician must be contacted to evaluate the
problem. The supplier's technician will recommend a plan of corrective action. Trouble-shooting
will be case-by-case, and will depend on the cause of the pull test failure.
After the recommended supplier's technician has checked and verified all aspects of the machine,
the vendor must take the SPS again and conduct another pull test.
Prior to resuming production, 100 per cent of the garments in the isolated bundles must be
evaluated for the problem identified by the supplier's technician.
Required bulk garment testing
All styles for children's wear must be tested for safety. The vendor is responsible for submitting six
(6) garments per style chosen randomly from bulk production to the approved laboratory for
independent testing and verification that they meet safety specifications. All fasteners (both male and
female studs, where applicable) on the six (6) garments submitted will be tested regardless of how
many are contained on each garment.
The HBC-004 Test Method will be used to determine the attachment strength of mechanically
attached hardware components Hardware components are required to withstand the following
force applied over five (5) seconds and then maintained for 15 seconds:
Ring prong snaps, eyelets, and tack rivets: 15.0 lbs. minimum
123 | P a g e
Ring prong snap fasteners, and tack rivets
Factories attaching fasteners to infant's and children's wear are required to have the following onsite
testing equipment.
A Chatillon, Imada, or SafQ snap tester
124 | P a g e
125 | P a g e
CHAPTER 9
Needle Control
and Metal
Detection
126 | P a g e
127 | P a g e
HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH require that vendors manufacture
all garments in a controlled environment and thoroughly check them to ensure that they are 100 per
cent safe. This section sets out mandated requirements involving needle control and metal detection,
but it remains the responsibility of each Vendor to ensure that only safe product reaches the stores.
HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH will deal only with vendors who
are in full compliance with the requirements set out in this section and who can demonstrate that
control systems are in place and operational, and will cease trading with vendors who cannot
establish through internal records that proper care and attention is being taken.
Key points
• A needle control system is mandatory for machine needles, hand-stitched work, and tagging gun
needles
•
A control system is also necessary for sharp tools.
•
All children’s garments must be passed through a conveyer-style metal detector.
Factory should have the following forms in place to monitor a needle control policy. Please see
example of a form for Needle Control Record for Sewing Machine Needles.
Required Forms
•
Needle Control Record for Sewing Machine Needles
•
Record of Destroyed Contaminated Product
•
Needle Control Record for Hand-stitched Work
•
Needle Control Record for Tagging Gun Needles
•
Sharp Tools Control Record
•
Metal Detection Record
•
Metal Detector Testing Record
Needle control
A needle control system must be in place for all hand and machine-sewing operations, including offline embroidery rooms and other stand-alone sewing areas (e.g., sample rooms) and tagging
(Kimble) gun needles.. Only one supervisor or mechanic in each sewing line should be given
responsibility for needle control. This person will hereafter be called 'the needle supervisor.'
Sewing machine operators must not be allowed to possess spare needles. All needles other than
those fitted in machines are to be kept in a locked needle cupboard or drawer with only the needle
supervisor having access. All used needles must be replaced and collected by the needle supervisor
and placed in a sealed container for disposal. If a needle breaks, the sewing Machine operator must
summon the needle supervisor. The supervisor must then ensure that the sewing machine operator
has all the pieces of the broken needle in his or her possession.
128 | P a g e
The needle supervisor must affix all pieces of the broken needle to the Needle Control Record for
Sewing Machine Needles with clear adhesive tape and record the incident before issuing a
replacement. (with the broken pieces below) must be kept in the locked cupboard or drawer where
the needles are kept. This will ensure that broken pieces are not lost and will protect the integrity of
the records.
If all the pieces of a needle cannot be accounted for, the entire product in the area of the machine
that suffered the broken needle must be removed to a separate area for examination. Here a
handheld metal detector would be invaluable for determining the location of the missing piece or
pieces.
If the missing needle piece or pieces cannot be found, all products at the location where the
breakage occurred must be destroyed. This must be recorded in the Record of Destroyed
Contaminated Product and cross-referenced in the Needle Control Record for Sewing Machine
Needles).
Record should be kept for a period of two (2) years from the ex-factory shipping date, since they
may be needed in the case of an investigation. The needle supervisor must keep these records in
his or her office, or lock them in a secure drawer or cupboard.
The factory must keep all records in a log dated sequentially (with no missing pages), and the log
must be available upon request.
Sharp tools (e.g. knives and scissors)
Only one supervisor should be given responsibility for managing sharp tools. All sharp tools must
be kept in a locked cupboard or drawer which only the supervisor can access. The supervisor must
record the total number of sharp tools on line, all of which must be tied to work benches.
Workers must request new blades and/or sharp tools from the supervisor. If a sharp tool breaks, the
worker must summon the supervisor. The supervisor must then ensure that the worker has all the
pieces of the broken tool in his or her possession. The supervisor must affix all pieces of the broken
tool to the Sharp Tools Control Record (similar to Needle control form with clear adhesive tape and
record the incident before issuing a replacement. Form with the broken pieces attached, must be
kept in the locked cupboard or drawer where the needles are kept. This will ensure that broken
pieces are not lost and will protect the integrity of the records.
If all the pieces of a sharp tool cannot be accounted for, the entire product in the area where the
tool was being operated must be removed to a separate area for examination. Here a hand-held
metal detector would be invaluable for determining the location of the missing piece or pieces.
If the missing tool piece or pieces cannot be found, all products at the location where the breakage
occurred must be destroyed. This must be recorded in the Record of Destroyed Contaminated
Product and cross-referenced in the Sharp Tools Control Record.
Record should be kept for a period of two (2) years from the ex-factory shipping date, since they
may be needed in the case of an investigation. The supervisor must keep these records in his or her
office, or lock them in a secure drawer or cupboard.
129 | P a g e
The factory must keep all records in a log dated sequentially (with no missing pages), and the log
must be available upon request from HBC or Lord & Taylor or L&T,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks
Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH .
Metal detection
It is required that all apparel and products for infants, toddlers, and children (including all other
soft textile items such as stuffed toys or dolls, bedding, blankets, etc.) be passed through metal
detection equipment. For adult apparel, vendors are exempt from performing the following
detection procedure; however, vendors must conduct their own internal quality checks on all
products.
To allow the metal detection equipment to function, all snaps and other metal components used in
products for children must be non-ferrous and nickel free. The detection process must be
conducted when goods are completed and ready for packing. The goods may pass through the
detecting machine either in or out of polythene bags and then must be packed or put into cartons
immediately.
The detection equipment must be located in a confined area that is effectively metal free. The
machine must rest on a level surface and be calibrated and regularly serviced in accordance with the
maker's manual. The operation of the equipment should be restricted to a limited number of fully
trained, responsible employees. When the detector registers an alarm, an entry should be made in
the Metal Detection Record. The supervisor should attach any metal pieces found to Form with
clear, sticky tape. The product should then be passed through the detector once more to ensure that
all traces have been removed.
If a product registers an alarm and no metal can be found, then the product must be destroyed,
since a needle part or metal component may be concealed in a seam and may surface later. Any
destruction of product must be recorded in the Record of Destroyed Contaminated Product (Form
12) and cross referenced with the Metal Detection Record.
During the course of a working day, the metal detector must be regularly tested in accordance with
the maker's instructions to ensure it is working properly; the results of these tests must be kept in
the Metal Detector Testing Record. Testing usually involves passing two 1.2 mm ferrous cards
through the machine separately. The first card should lie flat on the conveyor while the second
should sit on a small nonmetallic block, to ensure that the machine is detecting at a range of heights
from the conveyor. The alarm should sound in both instances.
If the alarm fails to sound, the supervisor should be called to reset the sensitivity level. If the
supervisor cannot adjust the machine to register an alarm, no further product may be processed until
a trained engineer repairs the machine. Forms should be kept for a period of two (2) years from the
ex-factory shipping date, since they may be case of an investigation. The factory must keep all
records in a log dated sequentially (with no missing pages), and the log must be available upon
request from HBC, L&T , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH .
130 | P a g e
131 | P a g e
CHAPTER 10
Contact
Information
132 | P a g e
133 | P a g e
Key Contacts –HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF
5TH
Hudson’s Bay Company
Lord & Taylor and SAKS
LLC
8925 Torbram Road
Brampton Ontario L6T 4G1
Phone 905.792.4400
Fax905.595.7250
www.hbc.com
424 Fifth Avenue
New York, NY 10018
Phone 212.391.5356
Fax212.382.7366
www.lordandtaylor.com
Mr. David Miller
Senior Vice President of Global Sourcing
424 Fifth Avenue
New York, NY 10018
 Tel : + 1 212 382 6191
 Fax : +1 212 382 7366
e-mail: [email protected]
Ms.Maureen Metzinger
Sr. Manager of Logistic and Import
 Tel : +1 212 391 3560
 Fax : +1 212 382 7366
 e-mail: [email protected]
Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5th
21 Penn Plaza
362 Ninth Avenue, 17th Floor
New York, NY 10001
www.saks.com
Ms. Amy O’Shea
Vice President ,Sourcing Production and QA-Saks
Brands
Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH
362 Ninth Avenue, 16th Floor
New York, NY 10001
 Tel : + 1 212 549 1380
 Fax : +1 212 320 4702
e-mail: [email protected]
Ms. Helene Guinan
Director HBC Imports Payable and Customs
accounting
 Tel : +1 416 216 7544
 Fax : +1 416 861 6349
Mr. Neeraj Gupta
Director, Technical Design and Quality Assurance
 Tel: +1 905 792 4749
 Fax:: +1 905 595 7250
Ms. Jihea Pu
Director, Softlines Technical Design
 Tel: +1 212 391 3428
 Fax:: +1 212 382 7366
Ms. Julie Yan
Director, Social Compliance
 Tel: +1 905 792 4679
 Fax : +1 905 595 7250
Ms. Barb Pauk
Sr. Manager, Packaging and Production
 Tel: +1 905 792 5250
 Fax:: +1 905 595 7250
134 | P a g e
GLOBAL CONTACT:
Arjun Parmar
Intertek Consumer Goods North America
6225 Kenway Dr. Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5T 2L3
Tel:
1 905 678 4924
Cell:
1 647 292 8718
Fax:
1 905 678 7131
Email: [email protected]
Seemanta Mitra
Intertek Consumer Goods North America
1 Gateway center, Suite 1030
Newark, NJ 07102
Phone: (732) 394-5367
FAR EAST:
Arthur Lai
Intertek Consumer Goods Hong Kong Ltd
1/F Garment Ctr, 576 Castle Peak Road, Kln, Hong Kong
Office Tel : 852 21738208
Fax
: 852 3403 2660
e-mail
: [email protected]
Mobile: 852 61105558
HONG KONG
Intertek Testing Services Hong Kong Ltd.
2/F Garment Centre, 576 Castle Peak Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong
Testing
Main Contact
Backup Contact
Textile/
Garment/
Linens/
Footwear/
Handbags
& Luggage
For Test application and job status
Account Manager:
Ms Canny Yeung
Tel: 852 21738309
Mr Arthur Lai
Tel:
852 2173 8208
Mobile: 852 61105558
Mr Alex Lee
Tel: 852 2173 8387
Ms Stephanie Wong
Tel: 852 2173 8306
Shanghai
Intertek Testing Services Ltd, Shanghai
Textile, Garment, Home textile testing
135 | P a g e
3/F, No. 2 Building, Shanghai Comalong Industrial Park, 889 Yishan Road, Puxi, Shanghai, 200233,
China
Testing
Main Contact
Backup Contact
Textile/
For Test application and job status Account Manager:
Garment/
Ms. Fiona Mou
Ms. Rebecca Yue
Home Textile
Tel: 86 21 6091-7043
Tel: 86 21 6091-7080
Fax: 86 21 6485-0559
Fax: 86 21 6485-0559
Inspection
Ms. Linda Sun
Ms. Tina Liu
(North&East
Tel:
86 21 6495-6108*5204
Tel:
86 21 6181-5742
China)
Fax:
86 21 6495-0635/34
Fax:
86 21 6181-5394
E-mail: [email protected]
Shenzhen
Intertek Testing Services Shen Zhen Ltd.-Inspection
5/F, M-Space, Building A, Nanhai Avenue South Shekou, Nanshan District, Shenzhen, China, 518067
Inspection
Main Contact
Backup Contact
South China
Elaine Ni
Ms. Janet Kann
Inspection
Tel: 86 755 26020684
Tel:
86 755 2602-0878
Fax: 86 755 2602 0811
Fax:
86 755 2602-0811
CSR
Abby Feng
Angel Hu
Tel: 86-769-23133411
Tel:
86 755 2602-0846
e-fax: 86-755-26020742-3411
Fax:
86 755 2602-0899
Taiwan
Intertek Testing Services Taiwan Ltd.
No. 423, Ruiguang Rd., Neihu District, Taipei City 114, Taiwan
Toys & Hardline testing, Inspection: 8/F and E&E testing: 5/F
Testing
Main Contact
Backup Contact
Textile/
Ms Angel Yu
Account Manager
Garment/
Mr. Angus Tsai
Tel:
886-2-6602-2888 ext.608
Linens
Fax:
886-2-6602-2400/2401
Tel:
886-2-6602-2888 ext.611
Fax:
886-2-6602-2400/2401
Ms Miranda Chang
Ms Candy Lin
Tel:
886-2-6602-2888 ext.637
Tel:
886-2-6602-2888 ext.635
Fax:
886-2-6602-2400/2401
Fax:
886-2-6602-2400/2401
Bangladesh
ITS Labtest Bangladesh Ltd.
T. K. Bhaban (5th and 6th floor), 13 Kawran Bazar C/A, Dhaka 1215, Bangladesh.
Testing
Main Contact
Backup Contact
Textile/
Ms. Kaniz Fatema
Account Manager
Garment/ Home Group Leader
Mr. Afzal Hussain
Textile
Mobile: +8801714143625 Tel : +880 2 Tel: 88 02 8156226-28 ext 401
815 6226-28, Ext - 422
Fax: 88 02 9125866
136 | P a g e
Inspection
Fax : +880 2 912 5866
Ms. Sharmin Bhuyian
Tel : + 8802 815 6226 ~ 8 ( Ext - 601)
Fax : + 8802 912 5866
Mr. Mamun Zaman
Tel: 88 02 8156226-28 ext 101
Fax: 88 02 9125866
India - Gurgaon
Intertek Testing Services India Private Ltd.
290,Udyog Vihar,Phase II,Gurgaon,Haryana – 122 016,India
Testing
Main Contact
Backup Contact
Textile/
Mr. Manish Nangia
Account Manager: Mr. Umesh Kumar
Garment/ Home T: 91 124 4503413
T: 91 124 4503437
Textile
F: 91 124 4303592
F: 91 124 4303592
E: [email protected]
E: [email protected]
Laboratory Manager : Govind Kumar Jha
T : 91 124 4503426
F : 91 124 4303592
E : [email protected]
Inspection /
Mr. Satish Gupta / Selvakumaran L S
Mr. Arvind Patil
SCA
Tel: 0091-124-4503444/5/6,Ext# 3446 Tel: 0091-124-4503444/5/6, Ext# 3444
Fax: 0091-124-4303564
Fax: 0091-124-4303564
Email: [email protected],
[email protected]
137 | P a g e
APPENDIX A
Forms
138 | P a g e
139 | P a g e
Test Request Form
140 | P a g e
Test Request Form continued
141 | P a g e
Fabric Submit Information Sheet
142 | P a g e
Lab Dip /Strike-off /Embroidery/Fabric Approval Form
Visual color matching by using a light box: HBC requires that matching must be conducted with at least
three light sources, D65, CWF (Cool white florescent light) and incandescent “A” and there should be no
visible shade difference between all three light sources. The Product Development Manager will approve
vendor’s submission for lab dips using the above three light sources.
Visual color matching by using a light box: HBC requires that matching must be conducted with at least
three light sources, D65, CWF (Cool white florescent light) and incandescent “A” and there should be no
visible shade difference between all three light sources. The Product Development Manager will
approve vendor’s submission for lab dips using the above three light sources.
Spectrophotometer readings: ____________________________________________________
143 | P a g e
APPENDIX B
List of Apparel
Testing
Protocols
144 | P a g e
145 | P a g e
List of Signature and Olympic Apparel & Accessories Testing Protocols
Item
Woven Separates-Linen and Linen Blends
Test Protocol #
A-01
A-02
A-03
A-04
A-05
A-06
A-07
Woven Separates-Fancy decorated (bead, sequins, gel)
Woven Lining Fabric all fibers
Fancy Woven Separates-Sateen, Voile, Georgette, etc
Woven Dress Shirts all fibers
Woven Casual Shirts Cotton and Blends except Corduroy
Woven Corduroy Shirts
Woven Casual Bottoms all fiber except Corduroy & Denim
Corduroy Bottoms and Overalls, Coveralls- Unlined
Knitted Bottoms, Overalls, Jumpsuits, Rompers all fibers
Woven Denim Garments Unlined, Cotton and Stretch Cotton
Woven Non-Denim Shortalls, Overalls, Coveralls, Crawlers
Knitted Velour Fleece garments, Cotton or Cotton blends
Knitted Velour Fleece garments, Synthetic or blend
Sweater-Basic Knit Cotton and Blends
Sweater-Delicate stitch, basic Intarsia in Cotton
Sweater-Hand Knit delicate stitch Intarsia in Cotton
Sweater-Hand Knit lace crochet, Fancy decor in Cotton
Sweater-Delicate stitch basic intarsia with Embroidery
Acrylic and Acrylic blend Basic Knits
Acrylic and Acrylic Blend delicate stitch, Embroidery
Acrylic Blends, delicate stitch, with fancy embellish
Wool and Wool Blends, Shetland, Lambs wool, Merino
Wool and Blends, Delicate, hand intarsia, embroidered
Boiled, Brushed or delicate stitch Wools
Basic Sweaters Novelty Yarn Blends
Delicate Stitch or Fiber Blends in Novelty Yarns
Basic Sweater Silk and Silk blends
Delicate Stitch, Hand Intarsia, fancy decorated on Silk and blends
Woven Blazers-Lined, Corduroy, Velveteen and Velvet
Woven Lightweight Jackets and Coats unlined
Woven Corduroy Jackets, Unlined
Woven Washable Jackets and Coats, all weaves
ALL-WEATHER OUTERWEAR – WOVEN and FILLED
Knitted Accessories-Acrylic, Cotton, Nylon, Polyester
Knitted Accessories-Wool and Wool Blends
Wool Felt & Fancy Headwear and Accessories
Hats (Woven & Straw)
Socks, Cotton and Cotton Blends
A-08
A-09
A-10
B-01
B-02
B-03
C-01
C-02
C-03
D-01
D-02
D-03
D-04
E-01-A
E-01-B
E-01-C
E-01-D
E-01-E
E-02-A
E-02-B
E-02-C
E-03-A
E-03-B
E-03-C
E-04-A
E-04-B
E-05-A
E-05-B
F-01
F-02
F-03
F-04-A
F-05
F-06
F-07-A
F-07-B
F-07-C
F-08-A
Woven Separates-Cotton, Linen, Nylon, Polyester and Blends
Woven Separates-Silk, Silk blend, Wool and Wool Blends
Woven Separates-Sandwashed & Washable Silk, or Rayon
Knit Dress and Jackets all Fibers
Knit Top and T-Shirts all fibers except Linen
Knit Top and T-Shirts-Linen and Linen Blends
146 | P a g e
List of Signature and Olympic Apparel & Accessories Testing Protocols cont’d
Item
Test Protocol #
Socks, Acrylic, Polyester and Blends
Tights, Basic Stitch in Cotton-Nylon, Cotton-elastomeric
Tights, Delicate Stitch, Cotton-Nylon, Cotton-elastomeric
F-08-B
F-09-A
F-09-B
Tights, Basic Stitch in Acrylic and Acrylic Blends
Tights, Delicate Construction for Acrylic and Acrylic Blends
Tights, Delicate Fiber Content and Construction Wool and Wool Blends
Knit or Woven Swimwear and Exercise Leotards
Knit or Woven Briefs, Panties, Undershirts, and Camisoles
Woven Nightgowns Pyjamas & Robes in Cotton and Blends & Brushed
Woven Nightgowns Pyjamas & Robes in Synthetics and Blends &
Brushed
Knit Nightgowns, Pyjamas & Robes all fibers and Brushed
Woven Nightwear, Pyjamas, Robes, Daywear 100% Silk
Bras
LEATHER GARMENTS
LIGHTWEIGHT JACKETS, PVC OR PVC OR PU COATED OR LAMINATED
FABRICS
ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC or GARMENTS
Children's Addendum
Additional testing requirements for kids item for L&T/SAKS (USA)
NON-RECOMMENDED Zipper requirement
Additional testing requirements for Adult items for L&T/SAKS (USA)
F-09-C
F-09-D
F-09-E
G-01
G-02
G-03
G-04
G-05
G-06
G-07
H-01
H-02
J-01
J-02
J-03
J-04
J-05
147 | P a g e
List of Apparel & Apparel Accessories Testing Protocols
Item
Woven Tops
Woven Bottoms
Knit Bottoms
Knit Tops
Woven Intimates
Knit Intimates
Woven Outerwear
Woven Suits
Slippers & Indoor Shoes
Kids Woven Garment
Kids Knit Garments
Hat and Caps
Accessories (Ties, Knit/Woven Scarves, Gloves) and Socks
Leather & Suede Items
Knit Sweaters
Cashmere Items
Additional requirements for Kids items in US market
ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC or GARMENTS
Children’s Addendum
Additional requirements for kids items for Canada
Additional requirements for adults items for Canada
Buttons, Zipper and Trims testing
Handbag, Backpack, Totes, Duffle Bags (HL&A #1)
Belts (HL&A #3)
Wallets & Small Leather Goods (HL&A # 5)
Umbrella (HL&A # 6)
Clutch, Evening Bag, Cosmetic bag & Make-up case (HL&A#7)
Jewelry (Adult)
Test Protocol #
LT-01
LT-02
LT-03
LT-04
LT-05
LT-06
LT-07
LT-08
LT-09
LT-10
LT-11
LT-12
LT-13
LT-14
LT-16
LT-17
LT-19
HBC- J01
HBC-J02
HBC-K01
HBC-K02
Refer to HBC protocols for Trims
Handbag, Luggage & Accessories #1
Refer to HBC protocol for Jewelry #4
148 | P a g e
149 | P a g e
APPENDIX C
Reference
Materials
150 | P a g e
151 | P a g e
Country of Origin
Made in
Bangladesh
Fabriqué au
Bangladesh
Made in
Belgium
Fabriqué en
Belgique
Made in
Made in
Brazil
Canada
Fabriqué au
Fabriqué au
Brésil
Canada
Made in
China
Fabriqué en
Chine
Made in
Colombia
Fabriqué en
Colombie
Made in
Cambodia
Fabriqué au
Cambodge
Made in
Korea
Fabriqué en
Corée
Made in
Costa Rica
Fabriqué au
Costa Rica
Made in
Czech Republic
Fabriqué en
République tchèque
Made in
Dominican Republic
Fabriqué en
République dominicaine
Made in
El Salvador
Fabriqué au
Salvador
Made in
England
Fabriqué en
Angleterre
Made in
Germany
Fabriqué en
Allemagne
Made in
Guatemala
Fabriqué au
Guatemala
Made in
Haiti
Fabriqué en
Haïti
Made in
Honduras
Fabriqué au
Honduras
Made in
Hong Kong
Made in
Made in
India
Indonesia
Fabriqué en
Fabriqué en
Inde
Indonésie
Made in
Israel
Fabriqué en
Israël
Made in
Italy
Fabriqué en
Italie
Made in
Japan
Fabriqué au
Japon
Made in
Malaysia
Fabriqué en
Malaisie
Made in
Mexico
Fabriqué au
Mexique
Made in
Nicaragua
Fabriqué au
Nicaragua
Made in
Pakistan
Fabriqué au
Pakistan
Made in
Peru
Fabriqué au
Pérou
Made in
Philippines
Made in
Portugal
Fabriqué au
Portugal
Made in
Russia
Fabriqué en
Russie
Made in
Singapore
Made in
Made in
Fabriqué à
Fabriqué aux
Hong Kong
Philippines
Fabriqué à
Singapour
Slovakia
Fabriqué en
Slovaquie
Spain
Fabriqué en
Espagne
Made in
Sri Lanka
Fabriqué au
Sri Lanka
Made in
Switzerland
Fabriqué en
Suisse
Made in
Taiwan
Fabriqué à
Taïwan
Made in
Thailand
Fabriqué en
Thaïlande
Made in
Turkey
Fabriqué en
Turquie
Made in
United States
Fabriqué aux
États-Unis
Made in
USA
Fabriqué aux
É.-U.
Made in
Vietnam
Fabriqué au
Vietnam
152 | P a g e
Tracking Code for Kids Items – HBC,L&T ,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF
5TH
Products
1) First 5 digits will reference the manufacturing factory.
(This can be 3 initial letters from first word and one letter each from subsequent word. For
example: NINGBO SEDNO GARMENT can be NINSG)
2) Next 2 digits will be the ISO code of the country. ( Please refer to below list)
3) Next 6 digits for the production date of the product (021011) would be Feb.10, 2011.
(This date should be related to production batch time frame and provided by vendor. The
purpose is for vendor to trace back the production batch. It can be production start date)
4) Next digits (up to four digits) are the batch or lot run number information. This is
required as per the guide lines from US consumer product safety improvement act
(CPSIA).
For textile products with wash care label, the tracking code can be listed on the care
label below the HBC/L&T/Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH , CA/RN
numbers. For any other products it can be listed on the product or on the packaging.
Please see below ISO code list for some countries.
Name of the country
BANGLADESH
CAMBODIA
CANADA
CHINA
HONGKONG
INDIAPAKISTAN
Taiwan
Thailand
VIETNAM
USA
Code
BD
KH
CA
CN
HK
IN
PK
TW
TH
VN
US
Detailed list of ISO country code can be obtained from following link.
http://www.iso.org/iso/country_names_and_code_elements
153 | P a g e
154 | P a g e

04/17/14 - Saks Incorporated

Transcription

Similar documents

mariners supply pigeon forge

LU004 Hockney Corner Sofa - sofa comes in two parts to form an L

DECORATIVE FABRIC SALE Boca Bargoons has 1000`s and 1000`s

“Poke Berry Basket” Supply List

Sew Fun! - Australian International School Hong Kong

GCE Art and Design New Specification Personal Creative Enquiry

Dublin_T2 - Fabric Architecture

Ad, 8.625x11.125, Laverson, RanchandCoast

Vivantes Komfortklinik am Humboldt-klinikum, Berlin, Deutschland

Pietenpol Sky Scout - Model "A" Ford Foundation