Driver`s Side Rear Test Port

713-984-9441
Copyright 2002 David Lott, Diesel Innovations, http://www.dieselinnovations.com
Documentation Version 1.3 030905
External Regulator Installation Instructions
Retail Price - $449.00
Note – The hoses shown above are the ones that are currently getting shipped with the kit. Braided steel hoses as shown throughout
the instruction manual are available on request. We do provide hose covers for the braided steel if requested to prevent chaffing. The
regulator pictured above is the currently shipped regulator and differs only in style but not functionality from the one shown in the
instructions.
Disclaimer:
Diesel Innovations sells this kit as a high performance fuel regulator bypass kit. The kit was developed in response to Ford’s
engineered “dead end” fuel system for the power stroke diesels. This kit allows the fuel to flow through the heads and back to the fuel
tank at a given user defined fuel pressure. The result of installing this kit includes improved fuel mileage, quieter running engine, and
more responsive throttle. This kit is primarily recommended for early ’99 to 2002 power stroke owners.
Diesel Innovations makes no claim that this kit will eliminate what is commonly called “cackle” or “idle knock”. After the installation
of this kit, it is highly recommended to replace the #8 long lead injector with a stock split shot injector. (At this point it is assumed that
the purchaser understands the concept of “cackle” and “idle knock” and knows what the long lead #8 injector is) One side effect of
this kit after installation is that the engine runs quieter. This allows you to hear other potential problems in your engine that were
previously covered up by engine noise. Hearing other bad or potentially bad knocking injectors is not uncommon.
Before the installation of the regulator kit, it is highly recommended that ANY air leaks be repaired in the upstream fuel delivery
system starting at the fuel tank sending unit up to the fuel filter. It has been shown that air ingestion by the injectors can cause early
failure of the injectors hence causing added noise after the kit is installed.
Please contact Diesel Innovations for more details.
Tools Required to do the job:
8 mm socket
10 mm socket
13 mm socket
15 mm socket
3/8” drive swivel
9/32” 4 point socket
7/16” deep socket
9/16” deep socket
5/8” deep socket
7/16” open-end wrench
9/16” open-end wrench
5/8” open-end wrench
11/16” open-end wrench
6” 3/8” extension
3/8” drive ratchet
3/8” open-end wrench
Yellow Pipe Dope for Propane and
Natural Gas
1/8” allen wrench
3/16” allen wrench
These are the tools that were required when we installed the complete kit. We didn’t use
air tools as not everyone has access to them. The only specialty item on the list is the
9/32” 4 point socket used to remove the test port plugs in the heads.
Please read and reread this ENTIRE document before starting the installation. We
have made the kit and instruction documentation to be as simple as possible with
the addition of as many pictures as we could. Lay out all of your parts on a clean
surface and dry fit them together so that you know they are all there and fit
correctly. This will also help you get better acquainted with how the kit is
assembled and how all of the parts need to be connected.
WARNING! – YOU MUST DISCONNECT BOTH NEGATIVE BATTERY
CABLES ON THE BATTERIES PRIOR TO THE INSTALATION OF THE KIT!
The reason for this is that the lugs on the solenoid pack that you will be removing
are connected directly to the batteries and they are not protected from shorting out
should they touch any metal.
This kit should take you 4 to 5 hours to do if you take your time. Preparing for the
installation by removing the a/c compressor, alternator, and other items indicated in the
instructions will help shorten this time. This will allow you to concentrate on the kit
installation and not worrying about clearances around the fittings.
Hose Routing Diagram with Parts Placement
Refer to the specs for the 221FR-6 hose for the specifications on all pressurized
fuel line used in the regulator kit.
Hoses
Low Pressure
221FR Fire-Resistant
Marine Fuel & Engine Hose
Meets SAE J1527 Type A Class I, SAE
J1942
Hose I.D.
Part Number inch
Hose O.D.
mm inch
Working
Pressure
Burst
Pressure
mm psi MPa psi MPa
Minimum
Bend Radius
inch
Weight
Vacuum
Rating
inches
mm lbs/ft kg/m of Hg kPa
221FR-5
1/4
6,3
0.58
15
500 3,5
2000 13,8
1
25
0.19
0,28
24
20
221FR-6
5/16
8
0.68
17
500 3,5
2000 13,8
1-1/4
32
0.23
0,34
24
20
221FR-8
13/32
10
0.77
20
500 3,5
2000 13,8
1-3/4
44
0.28
0,42
24
20
221FR-10
1/2
12,5 0.92
23
500 3,5
2000 13,8
2-1/4
57
0.39
0,58
20
33,5
221FR-12
5/8
16
1.08
27
500 3,5
2000 13,8
2-3/4
70
0.47
0,70
20
33,5
221FR-16
7/8
22
1.23
31
500 3,5
2000 13,8
3-1/2
89
0.41
0,61
20
33,5
Construction: Fuel and oil-resistant synthetic rubber tube, one braid of high-tensile steel wire,
and oil, weather and fire resistant synthetic blue, rubber cover. Layline is embossed for
permanent identification.
Application and Temperature Range:
Gasoline, ethanol blends, diesel fuels, petroleum-base hydraulic fluids and lubricating oils within a
temperature range of -4°F to +212°F (-20°C to +100°C);
Water, water/oil emulsion, and water/glycol hydraulic fluids up to +185°F (+85°C).
Meets Class 1 permeation requirements with gasoline and gasoline/ethanol blend and 2·1/2
minute fire test. USCG accepted for commercial and recreational vessel applications.
Fittings:
Compatible with Field-Attachable fittings: 20 series (See catalog section B for assembly
instructions.), 22 series (See catalog section B for assembly instructions.)
Compatible with Parkrimp fittings: 26 series (See catalog section C for assembly instructions.)
Note:
+ Non-standard
Driver’s Side Rear Test Port
1.
2.
3.
Disconnect BOTH negative battery terminals. You have been warned.
Remove the Power Stroke shroud from top of fuel filter assembly.
Remove the turbo air intake assembly (black ducting)
4.
From here you will gain access to the driver’s side rear test port plug. Using a
9/32” 4 point socket, remove the plug.
5.
Apply pipe dope to 1/8” threads and install 1/8” NPT to –6AN straight port
adapter in driver’s side rear test port. Note - This adaptor goes in to the port at
an angle to the machined surface don’t be fooled. It should thread easily. If it
does not, you might be cross threading the adaptor. Also, if you have
problems getting enough clearance from the exhaust pipe to “Y” casting
union, take a die grinder and gently grind off a little bit of metal from the
union to get the adapter installed. It won’t take much as this is a rare case
usually found in the early 99 model year trucks only.
Grind here.
6.
Attach the 90-degree end of the 24” long hose to driver’s side rear port
adaptor. Make it snug but not tight. We will tighten it later.
Passenger’s Side Rear Fuel Port
(The hardest part of the whole installation)
1.
Remove the passenger’s side charged air cooler tube.
2.
Remove the passenger’s side engine lifting hook. Note – removal of intake
may be required if you have large hands.
3.
Remove the fuel line from the rear fuel port with a 9/16” open-end wrench.
This will be a tight fit but very doable.
4.
Remove the check valve (CV) from the passenger’s side rear fuel port with a
9/16” deep socket.
5.
Apply pipe dope to the1/8” thread of a 1/8” NPT to –6AN straight port
adaptor and install in the passenger’s side rear fuel port.
6.
Connect one end of the 22” long hose to the previously installed adapter. Snug
but do not tighten.
Note – If you drop this fitting while trying to install it, it will probably land on top of
the exhaust pipe leading to the turbo. This can be easily reached from under the
truck.
Front Fuel Fitting Connections
1. Remove the serpentine belt.
2. Remove the A/C compressor and idler arm mount and set off to the side.
3. Remove the alternator and mount and set off to the side.
4. Remove the passenger side front test port plug.
5. Remove the solenoid pack and set to the side.
6. Remove the 2 fuel lines from the passenger side of fuel filter housing.
7. Remove the fuel line and check valve (CV) from driver’s side front fuel port.
8. Apply pipe dope to the1/8” thread of a 1/8” NPT to –6AN 45 degree port adaptor
and install in the driver’s side front fuel port.
9. Apply pipe dope on 1/8” threads of an 1/8” –6AN 90-degree adaptor and insert in
the rear fuel port of the fuel filter housing.
10. Apply pipe dope on 1/8” threads of an 1/8” –6AN 45-degree adaptor and insert in
the front fuel port of the fuel filter housing.
11. Apply pipe dope on 1/8” threads of an 1/8” NPT to –6AN 45-degree adaptor and
install port adaptor in passenger’s side front fuel test port.
12. When installing the adaptor in the passenger side front test port, angle the 45
degree adaptor so that the fuel line going from the adaptor to the rear most port on
the regulator runs behind the fuel filter cap but at an arc that does not cause
binding in the hose as shown.
13. Remove the fuel return line from the factory regulator and install the supplied
brass cap on to the factory regulator. Make sure to apply pipe dope to the threads
of the cap.
.
14. Lightly oil the o-rings on the 3 –6AN fittings that go on to the new regulator and
install. No pipe dope is required.
15. Install pressure gauge on regulator. Use pipe dope on the threads here.
16. Install regulator on mounting bracket and orient as shown. Do not mount on
alternator yet.
17. Using the supplied gray fuel line, connect one end to the fuel return line using the
existing factory vibra-loc fitting.
18. Once one end of the gray fuel line is connected to the factory fuel return line, you
need to route the other end straight down along side the fuel filter housing, then
underneath the factory fuel feed line to the fuel filter housing then up to the
bottom of the new fuel regulator. Yes, this is tight, but it makes a good clean fit
with no kinks.
19. Connect all off the new hoses to the regulator at this time. Keep the regulator in
roughly the position it will be in when it is bolted up to the alternator.
20. At this time, with all of the adaptors installed and tight, you should be able to dry
fit all of the hoses. Essentially, this means connect all of the hoses to their
appropriate fittings, snug them up, and check for clearances and kinks. Make sure
that the hose from the driver’s side rear of the head to the fuel filter housing gets
routed around the turbo (under the fresh air intake tube), under the intake
manifold (the “Y” in the middle of the valley) and above the high pressure oil
lines and connects to the 90 degree fitting on the fuel filter housing. The
passenger side hose from the rear port will run under the lifting lug, along the top
of the intake manifold, and below the high pressure oil feed line and valve cover
electrical connector. Try to avoid having the hoses rub up against the turbo
housing or turbo pedestal.
21. Once you feel that all of the hoses are good to go, you can tighten all of them up.
NOTE – Double wrench the hoses and adaptors when tightening them up. This
will keep the adaptors from moving while you are tightening the hoses.
22. Leak test time. With all of the hoses tight and nothing potentially shorting out
the solenoid pack, turn your ignition key to the run position and pressurize your
fuel lines. The fuel pump will only run for 20 seconds at a time so it might take a
couple of turns to get fuel going. With a dry hand, feel all of the fittings. This
includes the 2 hard to reach ones at the backs of the heads.
23. If no leaks are detected, you can now adjust your regulator for about 65 psi by
loosening the jamb nut and turning the allen screw clockwise to increase pressure
and counter clockwise to reduce pressure. If your needle on the gauge seems to
be rapidly moving back and forth a few psi, that is the air left in the hoses. It will
pass out of the regulator and back to the tank.
24. Keep an eye of the pressure over the next few days. It might vary a few degrees
as the remaining air gets purged from the system. It will also vary between a
warm engine and a cold engine.
25. As this time you may reinstall all of the components that were removed during
installation.