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Genesis Instructions
How to use Genesis paints!
Introduction
Our Bountiful Baby BabySkin™ vinyl reborn kits are ready to go! There is no need to remove any factory paint, factory
body, or factory hair. So let's begin!
Although it may not be necessary to wash the vinyl before you begin, it is a good idea to wash the vinyl pieces before you
begin to remove any manufacturing residue that may be on the surface of the vinyl. Wash the vinyl parts in warm water and
hand dishwashing liquid, rinse thoroughly. Make sure the vinyl is completely dry before you begin as the Genesis paints do
not mix with water.
Our preferred paint for our BabySkin™ vinyl is our Bountiful Baby Heat-Set Genesis paints. We have our own private label
Bountiful Baby Heat-Set Genesis paints in custom colors that match our vinyl perfectly. Bountiful Baby Heat-Set Genesis
paints allow you to achieve permanent and amazingly realistic results.
Genesis “Paint-by-Number” set (our item #1642)
You can use the Genesis Thinning Medium (our item #1829), but we prefer to use Odorless Mineral Spirits (available at any
craft store) to achieve the flowing characteristics that we like.
We have organized the painting into numbered steps. We tell you the pre-mixed paint color and brushes/applicators to use for
each step. This simplified process is what we call Reborn Paint by Number.
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Key points to success with Genesis paints:
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Less is best. Use only a tiny amount of very thin paint. Too much paint can cause the doll to have a chalky over done
look.
Use an oven thermometer and a timer when baking the doll. Never leave unattended.
Do not overload your brush
Use the right brush for each step.
Supplies
Supplies needed:
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Bountiful Baby Premixed Genesis Paints (our item #2404)
Four Brush Set (our item #1667): Maxine's mop, size 1 round, size 2 shader, and size 18/0 script liner.
Reusable Natural Sea Sponge (our item #2047)
Paint Pallet (our item #1613 or #1618)
Toothpicks (our item #425).
Optional Latex Disposable Gloves.
Odorless Mineral Spirits or Genesis Thinning Medium.
Paper towels, cosmetic rounds or a simple sheet of paper will work for removing excess paint on brushes.
Cosmetic Wedges (our item #3737)
Color #1: Vein Blue
First, thin this color to a water color consistency with odorless thinner or Mineral Spirits.
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Using your mop brush put a small amount of paint on the brush. Lightly paint the inside of the head around the eye and nose
area only (to add a little depth).
Next using your #1 liner brush paint veins on the outside of the head, wrists and ankles, by lightly loading the brush with
paint and then painting onto a cosmetic round or paper towel to remove a little of the excess paint. This color has a tendency
to stain the vinyl, so be careful not to overload your brush.
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With a loose and free hand paint veins one at a time as illustrated below, or a similar pattern of your own design.
These above pictures show the veining painted more heavily than recommended. It is for illustration purposes only, so that
you can see the veining (otherwise the photography wasn't showing the veining as well).
Use a cosmetic wedge or your finger tip, as needed,
to lightly pounce on the veins to soften the look. You
can see subtle veining in this picture around the
temple area.
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Color #2: Baby Skin
This color is an all over color that brings depth to the skin tone. Thin this color to the consistency of watercolor. Use a mop
brush to dab this color onto a Sea Sponge lightly. Now take the sponge and lightly pounce the color all over the doll. Keep
pouncing the paint until you achieve an even tiny pin-dot look to the skin. If your baby looks chalky you have added to much
paint and will want to dab a sponge into straight Mineral Spirits and pounce over the paint to remove the excess. You can also
use Mineral Spirits to remove any areas of paint that you are not happy with to redo them.
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Bake: At this point, we recommend baking so that you do not ruin the tiny pin dot skin tone you have created. Bake at 260 265 F for 8-10 minutes. Use an oven thermometer to make sure it does not get too hot. Place the vinyl parts on a baking dish
in a bed of poly-fil. I would have a couple inches of thickness between the parts and the bottom or sides of the pan to prevent
melting. Never leave your doll unattended while baking.
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Color #3: Warm Blush
This color adds even more depth and warmth to the skin tone and can help achieve the blotchy look of a newborn. This color
is added in the same manner as Color #1, but I like to dab this color here and there leaving small spaces without painting
them to help achieve a newborn complexion. If you are trying to make an older baby, you may want to add this color evenly.
Thin the paint to a water color consistency with odorless thinner or Mineral Spirits. The following charts illustrate where this
color is used.
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Color #4: Nail/Lip/Blush
Use this color for blushing areas such as the cheeks, nose, hands, feet, knees, elbows etc. This color is also great for stork
bites. Thin to a watercolor consistency and add this color using your very lightly loaded Maxine's Mop brush. Remove excess
paint onto a paper towel or cosmetic round before you begin.
Use your #2 shader brush to paint the lips and nail beds with this color. I prefer to paint the lips in 2-3 light layers...heat
setting each layer before the next layer is applied. One light layer is sufficient for painting the nail beds.
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Color #5: Eyelid Purple
Thin this color and apply to the eyelids with a tiny 18/0 script liner brush. Using a free hand and a very lightly loaded brush,
paint in tiny capillaries on the eye lids.
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Color #6: Brow Brown
Thin this color and apply to the brow line using your 18/0 script liner brush. Start with a very, very thin paint and move to
sightly thicker paint layers as you go, to give dimension. Note: Even the thicker paint will still be very thin.
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Color #7: Nail Tip
Thin this color and add to the nail tips using a toothpick or your liner brush. After this step look your doll over carefully. If
there are any areas that you have too much paint, dab them with a cosmetic wedge dipped in Odorless thinner. If there is any
touch up work you would like to do, now is the best time.
Bake: Bake at 260 - 265 F for 8-10 minutes. Use an oven thermometer to make sure it does not get too hot. Place the vinyl
parts on a baking dish in a bed of poly-fil. I would have a couple inches of thickness between the parts and the bottom or
sides of the pan to prevent melting. Never leave your doll unattended while baking.
This time test the cure of the paint (to make sure it is dry) when the doll is cool by wiping the doll lightly with a damp cotton
swab. If no color comes back off then the paint is cured, if color comes off bake again for 5 more minutes and test again
when cool. If still not cured bake again, until cured, but never longer than 10 minutes at a time.
You can open Avery's nose with a drill bit if you wish, but the depth of her nose allows for a realistic look if left closed and
only shaded. You can shade Avery's nostrils slightly to add depth. I like to use the nail/lip/blush mixed with a bit of the brow
brown and a touch of the vein blue. The color will be a muted reddish purple color that almost looks gray. You really can't go
wrong with the color here. Just thin the paint down to a water consistency and very lightly paint the inside of the nostrils
near the back of the opening to add a shadowed look for the illusion of depth.
#8: Matte Varnish
Varnish #8 (Matte Varnish) This optional medium removes shine from the doll and gives a slight texture to the baby's skin.
Use this medium straight or slightly thinned if you prefer. Apply with a cosmetic wedge with a pouncing motion until it cover
the piece lightly and evenly. Do not cover the nails and lips with this medium.
Bake again in the same manner as mentioned before.
#9: Air Dry Gloss
Paint the nails and lips using your size 2 shader brush. Allow this medium to air dry.
Your vinyl parts are now painted and you are ready to add hair to your baby!
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Hair Rooting Instructions
with
Bountiful Baby®
Micro-Root® Rooting Tool
(our item #5598)
Our Needles
We stock five types of needles: (1) Regular, (2) Crown, (3) Twin-Crown, (4) Forked (5) Single Barb. In Regular, we stock 36,
38, 40, and 42 gauge. In Crown, we stock 36, 38, 40, 42, and 46 gauge (the bigger the number, the smaller the needle). In
Twin-Crown, we stock 40 gauge. In Forked, we stock 40, 42, 43 gauge. In Single Barb, we stock 43 gauge.
Your complete kit comes with 38 gauge Crown needles. We feel these needles are best for beginners. More advanced rooter
may choose to use a smaller needle.
Our Mohair
NuBorn Mohair
Our NuBorn Mohair (tm) is 100% PURE Mohair, its ULTRA-Soft
Texture makes it perfect to reborn NewBorn Baby!
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Our Rooting Tool
The Original Micro-Root® tool from the company that coined the term "Micro-Root"!
Many years ago, we first tried all the rooting tools we could find, and then we came up with this rooting tool. Our first MicroRoot® baby was Zachary, whose auction was placed on eBay on 11/26/02. We later created Destiny, our Micro-Root® baby
whose auction was placed on eBay on 1/20/03, and it is with Destiny that Denise Pratt, of Bountiful Baby, coined the term
"Micro-Root" to describe this new rooting technique.
Since then, each and every rooted baby from Bountiful Baby has been a Micro-Root® baby, and Micro-Rooting has become
the latest cutting-edge rave in Reborning.
Hair Rooting Instructions, by Denise Pratt
For hair rooting you will need mohair, a rooting tool (our item #5598), felting needles and Gem-Tac glue (our item #348).
I also always use natural hair on my babies; such has mohair or human hair. I feel that natural hair adds to the realism of the
baby. For mohair I prefer the premium mohair sold on our website. It is the closest thing to newborn baby hair that I have
ever seen.
Human hair can also be used. Human hair is more difficult to root, so it is not recommended for your first experience with
rooting. Human hair is a slicker texture than mohair and doesn’t grab on to the needle as well, but with practice can be
successfully rooted using the same method that is described here for rooting mohair. I use hair from my own children for
wonderful keepsake dolls made to look like them.
Notice that your rooting tool comes with 3 collets, make sure that the collet with the smallest opening has been inserted into
the tool. Screw the vise part way back on the tool and then place a needle into the collet, pushing it in until almost all of the
thicker part of the needle is inside the tool. Tighten the vise and you are ready to root. If you have difficulty getting the needle
in at first a pair a needle nose pliers will help.
Hold the rooting tool like a pencil, or else hold it by placing the wooden handle in the palm of your hand while pinching on
the metal vise part of the tool. In either case, make sure your fingers are placed on and "pinching" the metal vise part of the
tool, like you were holding a pencil, because supporting the tool down lower like this will help reduce needle breakage.
Before we begin rooting, let me explain something about mohair. As with human hair mohair has an up and a down side. It
has a one way barb-like surface to it. If the hair is rooted from the center the hair will be messy, frizzy and hard to manage. It
is important that you root from the cut ends of the hair and let the tip ends be the ends of the babies hair. If you root from the
center of the hair you will be rooting some of the hair upside down and have a frizzy head of hair. Rooting from the center
works for the cheaper roving type mohair because it is already tossed around and is not sorted with the tip ends and cut ends
together. If you are not sure which end is the cut end and which way is the tip. Run your hand down the lock. The hair will
feel smoother going from the cut ends to the tip than it will going from the tip to the cut ends. As with your own hair, this is
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much easier to feel if the hair is wet.
Cut hair into approximately 3” lengths. I like to place a small rubber band loosely around the hair about 1 inch from the cut
end to help hold the mohair. The first step is to create the border or hairline. Follow the pattern of the molded hair on the head
or use you own hairline as a guide. Lay a small lock of hair on the vinyl and push the needle of the rooting tool through the
vinyl about 1/8 to 1/3 inch from the cut ends of the mohair. You can either go straight into the vinyl or root at an angle
towards the crown. Work your way across the width of the lock of hair in one or more staggered rows. Pull away excess hair
and move the remaining hair over and repeat. If you get any short hairs that stick out or any excess hairs pull those back out
with tweezers or pinch them out with your fingers. When your lock of hair gets too small to work well, add more hair to your
lock. Trim the cut ends of the hair where you are rooting often to keep them nice and even.
Continue working your way around the head until you have formed a complete hairline. Next fill in the rest of the scalp
working your way towards the crown. Hair should be rooted on a downward angle and laying outwards from the crown in all
directions. Root the crown of the head last.
When hair is completely rooted, secure hair from inside by squeezing Gem-Tack glue around on the hair from the inside of
the head. Next clip a piece of a cosmetic wedge onto hemostats and smooth the glue, covering all the hairs on the inside of
the head. If you do not have cosmetic wedges or hemostats, you can use a paint brush.
When the glue has dried, you can brush and style the babies hair. Since Gem-Tac is waterproof when dry, you can even wash
the babies hair without “rewetting” the glue inside the babies head.
Rooting Eyelashes
Rooting eyelashes works very well on sleeping babies. I recommend that you go ahead and root the lashes from the center of
the hair. Since there are so few hairs on the lashes, they are not likely to get tangled and matted. Take a 5-6 inch piece of hair
and loop it over the felting needle. Place the tip of the needle in the crease of the eyelid and push the needle into the vinyl
catching the hair and pushing it inside the vinyl. I root the lashes with the needle pointing on an upward angle so that the hair
will lay down against the face. Continue the process across the eye. Place glue on the inside to secure the lashes. Allow the
glue to dry and then carefully trim the lashes. I like to cut some hairs slightly longer than others to give a softer natural look.
Styling Baby's Hair
Using a styling razor (such as our item #461), shape the baby's hairline. For a newborn look, leave the babies hair longer in
the front and shorter on the side front of the head. Cut away excess hair on the back and sides of the head. Layer the hair
smoothly with the razor for a uncut newborn look.
Remember to take this step slowly and carefully, you can always cut away more hair, but it is not as easy to add hair if you
remove too much.
After styling the baby's hair, you may want to wet the hair using a wet baby soft brush and put a nylon sock over the baby’s
head being careful not to cover the lashes, then allow hair to dry and remove the sock. The cut off foot of a pair of nylons
works great for this. This will help train the hair to lay right on the head and push down any little short hairs that may have
been left behind. With premium wavy or curly mohair, you can wet the hair and add a little styling mouse, then pick and
shape the hair and let dry to bring out the curls.
Caring for Mohair
Brush baby’s hair as needed, with a baby soft brush. Your baby’s mohair may require occasional grooming, but the beauty
and soft feel of this hair makes it worth a little effort.
Mohair is a natural fiber and it is natural for there to be some shedding. Brush baby's hair as you would a real newborn's hair
to keep the hair looking it's best.
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Body Assembly Instructions
Preparing The Head For Placement On The Body
If you are giving your baby an optional magnetic pacifier, use a glue such as our E6000 (item #248) to glue a rare earth
magnet behind the baby’s mouth (magnet such as our item #1656 or #168). Make sure you glue the right side of the magnet
to the mouth so that the pacifier with magnet will attract rather than push away from the magnet inside of the head.
If you have (optionally) opened the nose and/or mouth, you will need to place dark purple (our item #4086) felt behind them
to prevent weighting material or stuffing from showing through. Cut a square of felt and place it just above and behind the
nose. If the mouth is open too cut the piece large enough to cover the mouth opening as well and glue piece lightly with Gem
Tack, just above the nose openings on the inside of the head. You want to be sure not to let any glue get in the nose or mouth
openings.
Weighting The Arms, Legs and Head
You will be using one of the 1-pound bags of beads to weight both the limbs and the head. Fill the vinyl arms and legs ¾ the
way full of glass beads. Top off with Poly-fill (#217) and seal with the provided arm and leg plugs. Fill a tied off length of
nylon stocking with the remaining beads from the first 1-pound bag of glass beads tie off the end of the bag. Place this bag in
the head. Fill any remaining space lightly with Poly-fil. Add ring to neck with the larger end nearest the base of the neck.
The ring is small, but the soft vinyl can be folded in on itself to accommodate the ring. It should be a tight fit. Once the ring
is fully in place, cap with the neck with the provided neck plug.
Stuffing The Cloth Body
Fill the arms of the cloth body full of Poly-fill (#217). Do not stuff tightly...full, but lightly full is best.
Fill a tied off length of nylon stocking with the remaining 1-pound bag of glass beads and tie off other end. Place a small
amount of Poly-fil in the bottom of the torso of the body and place the bag of glass beads into the torso. Fill the remaining
space lightly with Poly-Fil placing small amounts of stuffing around the sides and top of the bag of glass beads until you
achieve the desired feel. A body that is floppy and not overstuffed will feel more like a real newborn.
Attaching The Head And Limbs To The Body
Place the arms on the body. Thread and pull the cable ties as you adjust the fabric to be gathered evenly around your tie. Pull
the tie tightly or you can leave them just a bit loose if the doll is for an adult, so that they can be turned and posed. Place the
legs on your doll in the same manner.
Place the head on top of the body and pull the cable tie. Adjust the fabric as you go. With the neck ring in place, this tie can
be tightened fairly tight and still allow the neck the ability to turn easily.
Cut the ends of the cable ties off smoothly with your cuticle nippers, like our item #301. Yes, normal cutters will also cut
cable ties, but cuticle nippers create a cut that feels almost polished! Also, these precision nippers have a cutting head with an
angled design to help you more clearly see where and what you are cutting.
Be sure to note the time. Your beautiful baby is born!
Dressing Your Baby
You have created the most realistic baby doll ever. Your little one needs real baby clothing to finish the effect. Our Bountiful
Baby Boutique store offers many beautiful outfits to fit your Reborn baby perfectly. A true 3-5 pound preemie size fits our
triplets perfectly!
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