`SC Buyer`s Guide`

SC Buyerʼs Guide
A primer on what to know when buying a 1989 to 1995
Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe (or Cougar XR7).
Contents:
Introduction........................................................................................................................................................... 1 In Person ................................................................................................................................................................ 2 Engine Bay ............................................................................................................................................................ 2 Inside ....................................................................................................................................................................... 3 The Seller Said... ................................................................................................................................................. 5 Start Me Up............................................................................................................................................................ 5 Lo Rider .................................................................................................................................................................. 6 Decisions...Decisions ....................................................................................................................................... 7 The High Mileage SC......................................................................................................................................... 8 Prices....................................................................................................................................................................... 8 Appendix ................................................................................................................................................................ 9 Helpful Links:................................................................................................................................................................................. 9 Contributors: ................................................................................................................................................................................. 9 Vehicle Survey ­ Checklist for current condition......................................................................................................... 10 Introduction
This document is for the buyer that may not be familiar with the SC and is looking
for hints, and tips as to any particular items that may be wise to note when considering
purchase. It is not meant to provide general used car buying assistance and it assumes
that a rookie SC buyer has basic automotive knowledge. Note that not all SCs came
from the factory with similar equipment, features and options.
The Ford Thunderbird was restyled in 1989 and became slimmer in overall
dimensions with a wheelbase nine inches longer than the previous model. Also new at
that time was a fully independent rear suspension. Mercury's Cougar is similar, but with
different appearance touches. Base and LX editions had a 3.8-liter V6 and 4-speed
overdrive automatic. Performance fans had a particularly tempting choice: a
supercharged, intercooled variant of the V6 that pumped out 210 horsepower in the
Super Coupe (SC), which featured dual exhausts, 16-inch tires, and 4-wheel antilock
disc brakes. Four-wheel disc brakes came standard on the SC, (optional on the LX).
This body style, known as ʻMN12ʼ, ran thru 1997, with the SC ending in 1995. The major
years of the SC represent two basic versions: 1989 ~ 1993 and 1994 ~ 1995.
Page 1 of 10
“What are the hidden differences between the ʻ94/95 SCs vs. the early model
cars, besides the obvious exterior and interior changes?
The late model cars received many tweaks by the 3.8L Engineers. The rods were
improved, the heads were modified slightly, and the crank was altered. Numerous
electronic components and sensors were changed, the EEC was updated, and the
injectors were raised to 36# vs. 30# on the early model cars. The automatic
transmission became “electronic” (4R70W vs. AOD); the manual transmission received
slightly different ratios. The ABS unit had already changed to a different style in the ʼ93
model year. The interior received driver and passenger side air bags, therefore
eliminating the annoying gliding shoulder belts. The interior changes were obviously
major. Over all, I think it is an improvement except for the seats. The early seats
somehow feel better to me, even though the changes to them were minor. I especially
like the 145-mph speedometer from the late model dash. Thankfully this is easily
retrofitted to the early model instrument cluster in about 20 minutes. The exterior
changes were definitely a ʻsome like ʼem, some donʼtʼ scenario.
The single major reason for the horsepower difference between the early and
late model engines is the better internal porting and epoxied rotors on the ʻ94/95 Eaton
supercharger. Most everyone has seen the differences between the two and the
rectangular opening on the rear of the late model unit is far larger than the oval opening
on the early model units. Even though it is spun slower than the early model blowers, it
makes the extra HP easily through enhanced airflow capability and increased adiabatic
(heat handling) efficiency.” Courtesy Bill Evanoff, SuperCoupePerformance.com
Many people find themselves using the Internet to hunt for an SC. This is a great
way to window shop, but it can be important to remember that an online digital photo is
a filter through which various details can be simultaneously magnified as well as
masked. There is no substitute for walking around a vehicle by you or your broker.
Decide before visiting in person – are you looking for a reliable daily-driver or a project?
In Person
During a first inspection, it is easy to overlook small paint defects, missing interior
trim and malfunctioning lights and accessories. It can be a good idea to take your own
photos so that you can study more closely at your leisure. Print out this document and
bring a flashlight. Donʼt be shy when asking if you can come back to take another look.
Walk around the car and observe if it sits squarely. Is the gap between each tire
and fender the same? Check the tires for wear and note the size (driver door sticker has
stock tire data). Tires and wheels may have of course changed sizes...ask why.
Engine Bay
The hood release is inside the car, left of the driver seat on the side - pull to
open. The safety catch is over the passenger side headlight, about a foot from the edge
of the fender - raise the hold slightly, reach just inside and slide the release to your left
to open. The hood when opened is supported by a pair of gas cylinders and it should
stay open without your help. Caution. Donʼt get under the hood until you know it wonʼt
suddenly drop and try to close.
Page 2 of 10
Check all three serpentine belts for wear. Check the belt tensioners for wear via
the ʻrangeʼ gauges. Inspect the radiator, thermostat housing and hoses for leaks. Is the
wiring intact or has it been opened up and left to suffer at any location? Note the data on
the build tag on the front bulkhead, near the radiator to see if it matches the sticker
inside the driverʼs door and the VIN tag at the windshieldʼs lower edge, driver side. Be
sure to jot down the VIN code if you plan to run a CarFax check. Did the courtesy light
under the hood work? Is the battery clean and securely mounted? Check the lower front
edge of the battery for a wedge type clamp.
Look for broken or missing wiring retainer clips, wiring harness points that have
been cut or left open and any grounding straps that may be disconnected (right front of
engine to body is just one).
Check under the car for fluid leaks. Red is power steering and/or auto trans.
Black is engine oil and/or brake fluid and green is coolant. The oil filter is located at the
lower front of the engine (sideways). It is not easy to remove on some cars, especially
with bad motor mounts, and it can be common to find oil right below it that may indicate
a leak – or just a messy oil change. Deteriorated mounts can also cause issues with
power steering lines – even a cracked oil pan. Rev and watch engine to see if it rocks.
Check for low levels of auto trans, engine & power steering fluids (dip sticks for
these – auto trans dip stick is at left rear of engine) and coolant & brake fluid (viewable
tanks). Is the auto trans ʻTVʼ cable grommet on the cable end that connects to the
throttle body? Take note of any service stickers.
Check around the nose of the supercharger for fluid leaks. There is a seal behind
the pulley that often leaks at higher mileage. If the supercharger is leaking, there will
likely be a dark spot on the under-hood sound insulation blanket, directly above where
the supercharger pulley resides. Factory pulley here is steel – aluminum is aftermarket
and perhaps a different size (up or down), which would modify the boost.
Inside
The interior is usually easy to check, with most wear showing on common friction
points such as door grabs, seat bolsters, carpets, pedals, the shifter and steering wheel.
Note that the front seats will tilt forward without using the release on the rear.
This gravity-activated release engages when the car is parked on a hill, as an example.
There are two sets of seat belts for the front. The shoulder belt is activated when the
key is turned to run, resulting in the upper end of the belt restraining system traveling
across the upper inside door/body edge - the other is a manual lap belt. If the shoulder
belts are released from their catch at the top, a warning light will be lit in the dash. With
the key off and door opened, the shoulder belt mechanism will travel from the driving
position to the ʻopenʼ position at the front edge of the door/window - watch your neck
when exiting the vehicle. The belt will not move again until the key is turned on. If the
mechanisms move slowly and/or chatter, the internal glide track may need to be treated
with silicone spray to speed and quiet movement.
Page 3 of 10
The front seats have power for front-to-back and up/down travel as well as tilt of
the entire seat. There are also button switches on the outside of each seat that pump up
or deflate the lumbar and move the side bolsters in and out. Seat-back tilt is manual.
There are three sets of lap belts and two sets of shoulder belts in the rear. An
optional w/leather 60-40 split rear seat allows either upper section to be released (pull
the short straps at the top) and laid down allowing access into the trunk and/or room for
lengthy items inside the car. The 1990 35th Anniversary SC has distinctive leather seats
with grey pigskin insets and blue piping, front and rear.
If the battery is properly charged and connected, turning the key to accessory
should provide power to the windows, seats, door locks, radio, powered antenna,
powered mirrors, trunk release, and fuel door (not all cars, all years, will have all of
these features). Lifting the console lid or opening the glove box at any time should
activate a courtesy light in each location. Lifting the driver's door handle should activate
courtesy lights on the inside rearview mirror, a light for the keyless entry keypad if
installed, along with a ring around the door keyhole, lower inside courtesy lights on the
back edge of both doors and in the sides of the upper body in the back.
Vehicle Maintenance Monitor (VMM) - The dash unit that mentions oil changes,
coolant level etc. is a module that monitors fluids and helps tracks factory oil change
intervals (3000 miles). This is just a reminder for the driver and has no effect on
operation of the vehicle. If the indicator says ʻNOWʼ, see the ownerʼs manual for reset
procedure. If any of the other indicators are lit, start by checking/trusting those levels
under the hood before starting the engine.
Black tape on doors - Many older cars have suffered from deterioration of the
black tape used by the factory on the post at the rear of the door on the outside of the
car. Some owners replace the black tape, some repaint this area and some ignore it.
Other than being a cosmetic issue, most consider it minor when buying a car.
A ʻFirm Rideʼ blinking light in the dash cluster indicates an issue with one or more
of the electronically controlled shock actuators. You should hear a mild ʻclickʼ when the
switch in the center console is toggled on/off. Number of blinks indicates which corner
may have an issue:
• Left rear (1 click/blink); Right rear (2); Right front (3); Left front (4)
• Frequently, cleaning the actuator contacts at the top of each shock is the solution.
Moonroof:
• Wind or water leaks? Inspect seal around glass and/or for plugged drains.
• The switch has two positions: 1.) Tilt up at rear. 2.) Slide roof open/closed.
• The sun shield will retract when the glass is opened, and move out within reach
when the glass is closed. It must be then fully closed manually.
Headlights:
• Headlights flicker? Most likely needs a headlight switch.
• Headlight dimmer/auto off switches - (see below)
• Fog lights should work when headlights are on low beam. A switch that does not
light up the ʻOnʼ indicator is most likely dirty inside – maybe burned out.
Page 4 of 10
The Seller Said...
• Noob noted: ”...every SC you look at the seller always says ʻthese cars are rareʼ.”
The point? Not yet...smile and keep looking.
• If the seller mentions head gaskets, understand that many cases of head gasket
failure are due to incorrect modifications and/or poor maintenance. Think
money...and remember to use the Internet, factory manuals, etc. for more
information on this heavily discussed topic.
Bill Evanoff: “In my opinion, blown head gaskets are not a big issue at all. As long
as the gaskets were replaced quickly after they blew out the repair should be fine.
It is only if the car sat for a long time, and then repaired, where the new owner is
likely to have problems with a spun bearing and/or other more serious issues.”
A word about rust. While any used vehicle can suffer from rust, a common
problem on SCs from areas such as the East coast, goes like this (courtesy noob) “...for
us NY peeps a quick look inside the rear wheel wells inside the lower skirt area shows if
there is rot. Most hack owners would not yank the skirts to bondo the rot. Canʼt see it for
20 foot rule. Underneath the nose on the hood is a good spot to check for rot. Also, see
if the front clip has been replaced in a possible accident - look for any old color under
the hood - I think the VIN is there as well. ʻ64Rʼ is an SC. Someone mentioned that LXs
had different holes drilled on the inner lip of the front fenders vs. the SC.”
An SC has three main computers that may or may not agree with what the seller
claims: 1.] Engine fuel, air & ignition management 2.] ABS (brakes) 3.] Ride control.
All three are capable of providing feedback via warning lights on the dash and/or
via codes using the factory diagnostic tap under the hood (EEC) or in the trunk (ABS).
All three are also covered extensively in factory manuals and on Internet sites, forums,
etc. Search on Ford ʻEECʼ.
Ask or check for an ownerʼs manual. There is also a separate manual for the
premium sound system. If the car doesnʼt come with either of these, pick up a set off
eBay or use Internet forums & docs to learn. Youʼll want to know such things as how to
set the clock in the radio, reset the VMM and how to use/adjust the headlight controls.
Is it real? Note that a genuine set of SC heads have ʻSCʼ cast into them. 1990 35th
Anniversary models should have a tag on the radiator crossmember that says ʻ35thʼ.
Start Me Up
Turning the key to ʻonʼ should light up all indicators and warning lights in the dash
gauge cluster, as well as the VMM (if installed) over the radio. There is a line of warning
lights along the bottom of the cluster, as well as two in the tachometer, below the
ʻpremium fuelʼ warning text. The yellow up arrow is an upshift light and all SCs have this
regardless of transmission type. In addition, you should hear chimes (and see a 'Door
Ajar' dash light), which can include door open and key on. Test the power door locks
using the switches on both doors.
Page 5 of 10
When shutting down, there is a chime that sounds when the headlights are left on
and/or when the key is left in the ignition with the driver's door opened. You may also
hear ABS or fuel pump noise/chatter when turning the key on, which should go away
quickly as the systems build and hold pressure. Now is a good time to test the tilt wheel
mechanism - make sure it doesn't tilt unless the lever (right side) is pulled backwards.
Expect to need to apply the foot brake and have the car in Park or the clutch
depressed before the starter will engage when you turn the key to start the engine. If the
car starts and idles properly, all warning lights should go out (if the parking brake is
applied a warning light will stay on). If the antilock or brake warning lights stay lit, take
note and watch for other indications of brake related problems, as there is most likely a
brake system issue. Again, think money…
Once the engine starts, check the vacuum/boost, tach and oil pressure gauges
for activity. Listen for any knocks, belt scream etc., keeping in mind that a distinctive
high-pitched whine, particularly with the hood open, will be heard coming off the
supercharger, which is normal unless pronounced, in which case such a sound could
indicate excessive wear and/or damage.
Car should start and idle without intervention from you. If it takes more than one
try to start, and/or if the engine stalls instead of idling, repairs could run from simple and
free to complex and expensive. Same goes if the engine coughs when driving around.
Watch for warning lights and/or erratic tachometer. Changing spark plugs in an SC is
considered a bothersome chore - this can lead to delayed replacement of both plugs
and wires, which can then lead to poor running and performance. Without getting into
the gory details, the list of things that can lead to a poorly running engine is not short.
Repairs should begin by reading engine codes, and tea leaves - tossing a few chicken
bones never hurts as well.
Lo Rider
Driving the car should allow you to determine if basic systems such as lights,
transmission, brakes and steering function with or without exhibiting trauma. Is the
steering wheel oriented correctly? Does the steering feel loose, or tight at one point but
not another? Are there any clunks, pops, or squeals when the steering wheel is turned
from side to side? Does the car travel and brake in a straight line on a level road? Any
scraping noise when the brakes are applied? Any warning lights lit or blinking in the
dash? If the engine temperature gauge seems to ride low and/or move quickly at times,
the usual culprit is a loose/dirty push-on connector at the sender, rear of the thermostat
housing on the top of the motor.
Boost on a stock engine should be 10 to 12 lbs. and vacuum should be close to
20 in. Does the engine start on the first try and idle without needing to coax the throttle?
Does it accelerate smoothly without missing? Does it build boost with confidence and
shift without hesitation or missing a gear? Note any auto transmission or clutch
slippage. Be sure to try reverse and of course donʼt forget to check the heater, defroster
and AC controls and operation. Running the AC should also turn on the electric fan at
the back of the radiator – if not, and the AC compressor clutch won't stay engaged, the
system could be in need of a recharge and/or repair. The switch for the rear window
electric defroster will turn itself off when the heating element warms up.
Page 6 of 10
When inspecting the body, look for rust, poor repairs and such high-mileage
indicators as excessively worn door hinges. Do the doors sag or move if you lift on them
or do they open/close with difficulty and don't seem to fit correctly in their openings?
Inspect the door seals for excessive wear or damage. Check under the nose and tail for
damage to the skirts and any missing items such as chin spoiler or cooling diffuser pad
at the front of the engine, going back over the front sway bar. Examine all glass for
cracks and/or missing seals.
A wobbly inside rearview mirror is frequently due to a loose set screw that can be
reached by removing the mirror and tightening the hex screw on the mount to the glass.
SCs came with different combinations of radio/tape deck and CD player. Be
surprised if the radio makes sound in any of the earlier models. On JBL equipped
models, the audio and sub-woofer amplifiers and 6” sub-woofer are in the trunk.
Open the trunk with the key and check the spare, jack etc. Note the condition of
the trunk liners and the rubber gasket for the lid. Check for signs of any moisture. If you
buy the car, ask the seller for the code if it came with the keyless entry option (this 5digit code is also on a sticker inside the trunk lid). Use the code to test unlocking the
driverʼs door...press 3 to unlock the passenger door and 5 to pop the trunk right after
entering the unlock code. Pressing the two last buttons at the same time should lock the
car doors. Test a key in both door locks. The ignition and doors should use the same
key...different from the trunk key.
Decisions...Decisions
At this point, you should have collected many impressions about the car. This is a
good time to clear your head and decide if you want to engage the owner in an
extended conversation concerning specifics. If you are comfortable with your own ability
and mechanical knowledge to enter into such a conversation, you no longer need
advice on how to proceed. If you are not, take notes of what you've found and what the
seller said - consider not asking too many questions during one visit and try to find time
to think things over before you make a decision. Consider asking for opinions online,
using forums, etc. If you do online for advice, be sure to also provide basics about the
car, such as year and miles along with your notes and links to any photos. Keep it
simple...just the facts - explain your motives, budget, time-line etc.
In some scenarios, you may not have access to the owner, in which case you
might have no one to provide information or answers to your questions (true or false). It
may be wise to consider paying a mechanic to inspect the SC in question. A CarFax
report can be a good investment as well. In some cases, you can hire a local broker to
not only check the car out, but to handle price negotiation as well, as if they were buying
the car for themselves.
Page 7 of 10
The High Mileage SC
Bill Evanoff: “Getting a lower mileage car and paying more for it is ALWAYS a
good decision compared to buying a high mile ragged out car that is very cheap. It is
often very expensive to fix a Tʼbird SC, unless you do the work yourself - paying more
for a good example is money well spent!”
Mike – SCCOA: “High mileage (175k+), poorly maintained SC's typically will need
just about everything replaced to have any confidence in them later on…”
• Clutch & clutch master and slave cylinders
• Flywheel work & rebuilt transmission
• Replace engine motor mounts
• Rebuild the motor if replacing head gaskets
• Exhaust work including new catalytic convertors and o2 sensors
• New ABS master cylinder
• Wheel bearings
• Radiator
• New steering rack, suspension control arms and/or bushings (front & rear)
• New accessories (alt, p/s pump, a/c compressor)
• Not to mention the electronics, which can suffer separately or together, from bad
or missing ground cables to faulty connections and/or cheap components.
Prices
These cars originally sold for between $20,000 and $25,000 new. Used prices, at
time of this writing, seem to range from extremely low (less than $1k), to USD$10k and
up. What you end up paying may well be more of a reflection of how badly you want a
particular car rather than any 'market' trend. Basic price ranges from ʻConsumer Guideʼ
online at this time are $600 ~ $2,100.
Edmunds states that when buying from a private party, you can expect to pay:
•
•
.
1990 SC
1995 SC
$743.00 ~ $1,881.00
$1,980.00 ~ $3,415.00
$1,852.00 ~ $3,195.00
Western USA
…in the East.
If a seller mentions such items as a recent motor or transmission overhaul, ask to
see the receipts. As the new owner, you may have an issue and it can be nice when you
can invoke a warranty on any work that has been done in the past.
When it comes to cars that have been customized/modified, most owners realize
that they canʼt expect a buyer to provide a return on their original investment. $40,000
cars have been known to sell for $10.000. My advice if a seller insists on recouping their
costs at your expense, is to smile and be ready to walk away.
If you want a particular car, but youʼre afraid it might need more work and money
soon, use the checklist in the appendix to get an idea of what those worries may mean
when it comes time to deal with them.
Page 8 of 10
Appendix
Helpful Links: • http://www.albeedigital.com/supercou...icles/vin.html - VIN decoder
• http://www.sccoa.com/ - Super Coupe Club of America
• http://www.35thatr.org/ - All you want to know about the 1990 35th Anniversary
Thunderbird Super Coupe.
• http://www.carfax.com/ - CarFax - individual vehicle public records.
• http://www.coolcats.net/mn12/1989.html - Info that applies to both the Cougar XR7
and in many cases, the SC.
• http://www.SuperCoupePerformance.com/ - Buy stuff & feed your new-to-you SC
needs.
Contributors: • Bill Evanoff
• Ira R.
• Mike8675309
• Noob
• Young-SC-Owner
This document was written by Ken Tidwell - March 2008. Original content by others
noted as applies. Free to circulate intact. Please seek permission to quote or reuse.
[email protected]
Page 9 of 10
Vehicle Survey ‐ Checklist for current condition E: Excellent
G: Good
A: Average
P: Poor
Interior
Front Seats
Rear Seats
Carpet
Headliner
Dash
Electronics
E
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G
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A
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P
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N/A
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Mechanicals
Engine
Transmission
Exhaust System
Tires
Brakes
Steering
Air Conditioning
E
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G
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A
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P
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N/A
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Exterior
Paint
Hood
Right Front Fender
Left Front Fender
Right Doors
Left Doors
Right Rear 1/4
Left Rear 1/4
Trunk Lid
Front Bumper
Rear Bumper
Grille
Glass
Frame
E
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G
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A
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P
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N/A
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Notes:
Page 10 of 10
N/A: Not Applicable