Adapting to the changing silver market, and predictions for its future

Jewellery
September 2011 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 ISSN 2046-7265
FOCUS
Adapting to the changing silver market, and predictions for its future
XX Children’s jewellery designs to cater to a new generation of customers
XX Also inside: IJL 2011 show guide, including floor plan and exhibitor list
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6
CONTENTS
Jewellery
30
FOCUS
September 2011
FEATURES
A silver lining 24
36
Rebecca Hoh-Hale speaks to silver jewellery suppliers
to find out how they have been coping with rising
costs, and what their predictions are for the future
A career in colour 30
Harry Waight catches up with gemmologist and
jewellery expert Denis Bellessort to find out about his
fascinating career and recently-launched new brand
IJL 2011 36
61
A handy show guide, including a floor plan and
exhibitor list, to help you prepare for your visit to
this year’s International Jewellery London event
Creative inspiration 58
With IJL 2011 promising to be packed with products
to excite the professional buyer, the BJA’s Lindsey
Straughton picks out a few of the design highlights
Focus on children’s jewellery 24
61
Bold, bright and colourful, jewellery for
children remains a booming sector. Jon Chapple
explores some of this season’s latest trends
Safety first 75
Russell Jones of Fidler & Pepper Solicitors provides
some useful pointers for preventing and dealing
with accidents in your store to avoid injury claims
58
Regulars
Editor’s letter Roundup 8
10
Janet Fitch 16
The latest news from the industry
In preparation for the new season
and upcoming jewellery and fashion
events, Janet delivers some essential
background trend information
Keith Fisher 20
Ones to watch 22
Trends in timepieces
40
Syreeta catches up with
Stylesight’s Sandrine
Maggiani and Claire
Foster as they prepare
for their forthcoming
trends seminar at IJL
Taking stock Feeling rather ashamed at
his lack of awareness of a
particularly spectacular
watch brand, Keith
rectifies the situation
through research
16
Syreeta Tranfield A bumper selection
of new products in
honour of IJL 2011
66
43
Designer of the month
43
66
Since early childhood, Pippa Small has been
traversing the globe, developing interests in
both human rights and traditional jewellery
design, as Louise Hoffman discovers
How do they do that? This month, Dippal Manchanda explains
how the pre-hallmark testing process
has changed over the years, focusing
especially on X-ray fluorescence
70
Leonard Zell 78
Industry data Events Voice on the highstreet 80
82
90
Leonard reminds jewellers of the
potential for transforming jewellery
repair enquiries into valuable sales
Karim Merchant of Identity
the Jewellers, Derby
8
EDITOR’S LETTER
Editor’s letter
A
s if the troubled economy wasn’t bad enough,
without our fellow citizens smashing the place up
in an attempt to protest against that very same
situation… if indeed that was the motivation;
alas, I suspect not.
There’s no beating around the bush – the recent
riots in London and elsewhere in the UK were an
unwelcome and disturbing reflection of our society.
Even if they were purely a demonstration of the
vulnerability and demoralisation undoubtedly felt
by the majority of the population, especially the
younger generations, the choice of action was woefully
inappropriate, only serving in compounding the problem. That said, a
vulnerable person’s first reaction is often to lash out or put on a show of
‘strength’, so perhaps it is not entirely unsurprising.
Anyway, I will close my analysis there, as I suspect I will end up trying to
rationalise the irrational.
Instead, let us at least focus on the positives – the communities that pulled
together to help with the clean-up operation and restore order as much as
they could; the support being offered and fundraising being conducted by
organisations such as Retail Trust, to help those whose businesses were affected
and in some cases destroyed by the rioting and looting; and the measures being
implemented by the Government to ensure that those businesses are able to
claim some compensation for the damage and fund repair work.
Hopefully we can add another plus point to that list in the months and years
to come – a real effort to reintroduce a sense of stability, belonging and care
into UK communities. A big ask, but worth the effort. And while the retail
sector was unfortunately the target of much of last month’s violence, I can’t
help thinking it is also well placed to help bring about this change. Food for
thought, perhaps…
In the meantime, my thoughts are with those retailers who were affected by
the riots – I cannot imagine the trauma you must be experiencing, and I hope
you are all able to bring your businesses back to their former glory.
Jewellery
FOCUS
Editor
Louise Hoffman
[email protected]
Editorial Assistant
Jon Chapple
[email protected]
Production Assistant
Lewis Bowes
[email protected]
Group Advertisement Manager
Kelly Smith
[email protected]
Sales Executive
Katie Thurgood
[email protected]
Accounts
Maureen Scrivener
[email protected]
Customer Services
01206 767 797
[email protected]
Contributing writers:
Dippal Manchanda • Harry Waight
Janet Fitch • Keith Fisher
Leonard Zell • Lindsey Straughton
Rebecca Hoh-Hale • Russell Jones
Syreeta Tranfield
Design
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ISSN 2046-7265
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CHAMILIA
Founded in New York City in 2002, Chamilia was
launched on the premise of putting jewellery design
into the hands of the consumer. Now with over two
years’ trading under its belt in the UK and Europe,
the company continues to grow through the retail
partnerships it has nurtured. Chamilia is launching
two new collections for autumn/winter 2011 –
Swarovski and Cabaret – which it says will be sure to
complement the trends of the season. This month’s
Jewellery Focus cover features the new Swarovski
Collection, which includes 30 designs in sterling
silver. “This timeless collection contains brilliant
crystal Swarovski Elements in a stunning spectrum of
colours. The designs are effortlessly classic, feminine and elegant, inspired
by all the latest colour trends,” the company says.
Information: 0844 811 2142, [email protected], or IJL stand F121/E121
Mulberry Publications Ltd,
Wellington House, Butt Road,
Colchester CO3 3DA
Tel: 01206 767 797
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Levanter Large Lantern Pendant: £85
New Levanter Collection – Sterling Silver and Real Diamonds
Sterling Silver & Real Diamonds
View our new AW11 collections, POS and packaging at the IJL show – Stand G130
Order our AW11 catalogue: email: [email protected] Tel: 0118 975 3331
hotdiamonds.com
10
ROUNDUP
And briefly
Pandora sees “sharp deterioration”
Mikkel Vendelin Olesen, the chief
executive of Pandora, has resigned
following a difficult period of
tumbling revenues for the Danish
jewellery giant. Share prices plunged
from DKK 147.50 to DKK 50
(£17.27 to £5.85) on the release
of the news, which has seen board
member Marcello Bottoli take over
the role in an interim capacity.
Kurt Geiger launches jewellery line
High street footwear chain Kurt
Geiger has moved into jewellery
with the launch of Everything But
The Dress – a new line of accessories
that includes nearly 70 pieces of
jewellery. The shoe giant stated that
the project – which has been two
years in the making – should make it
a “one stop shop” for accessories.
IJL becomes RJC Supporter
The Responsible Jewellery Council
(RJC) has announced that International Jewellery London (IJL) has
become an official Supporter of the
Council. Commenting on the partnership, Syreeta Tranfield, the show’s
co-director, said: “We support the
Responsible Jewellery Council as we
believe in promoting responsible social and environmental practices and
supporting human rights throughout
the industry, from mine to retail.”
Van Cleef & Arpels opens in Selfridges
Renowned Parisian jeweller and
watch- and perfume-maker Van
Cleef & Arpels has opened its first
boutique in London. Occupying
a prime spot in Selfridges’
ground floor ‘Wonder Room’, the
historic jewellery house said the
new boutique – which has been
furnished with dark wood and eau
du nil carpeted floors, soft curtains
and silk-satin-covered, Art Decoinspired furniture – “epitomises the
sophisticated world of Van Cleef &
Arpels.” The brand has created a
special collection of jewellery, known
as ‘Magic Alhambra’ and inspired by
the vintage Alhambra necklace given
to Grace Kelly by Prince Rainier of
Monaco in the 1970s, to celebrate
the partnership.
Cash Converters will co-operate
with the Met
Cash Converters has announced
that it is to share information with
London’s Metropolitan Police about
gold and possible suspicious goods
being brought into its stores. The
second-hand goods chain revealed
the measures in response to a rise
in snatch thefts corresponding with
increasing gold prices.
Image: Nico Hogg
Jewellers hit hard by August riots
Jewellery retailers in London and beyond have been left counting the cost after rioting
devastated high streets across England in early August.
Jewellery and watch businesses became targets for looters and vandals as gangs took to
the streets in what the Metropolitan Police called “the worst [violence] in current memory.”
Among the businesses known to have been attacked in London were two jewellers in
Hackney, where much of the current wave of unrest began; one in Lewisham’s Lee South
Road; one on Rye Lane in Peckham; one on Beckenham’s high street; and another in
Enfield, which eyewitnesses described as being “cleaned out” by “a plague of locusts.”
F Hinds’ Clapham Junction store also fell victim to looters, in spite of the efforts of a
number of local residents who tried to defend the shop.
The disorder also spread outside of the capital, however, with incidents reported
by jewellers and other retailers as far afield as Bristol, Liverpool, Manchester,
Wolverhampton and Birmingham before the violence subsided. The decision was made
to close the latter’s historic Jewellery Quarter amid riot fears on the 9 August, with
London’s Hatton Garden following suit not long after.
Tottenham jeweller Steve Moore, who lost his shop in the violence on the 5 August, met
with Deputy Prime Minister Nick Clegg to assess the damage done to Tottenham High
Road. “I’m devastated,” he said. “It’s completely gone. My shop just doesn’t exist anymore.”
The Prime Minister, who condemned the “mindless selfishness” of the rioters and
promised to take “every action necessary to bring order back to our streets,” promised
that businesses without insurance cover that suffered damages as a result of the unrest
will be offered support under the Riot (Damages) Act of 1886.
A special HM Revenue and Customs helpline set up to offer advice and allow
businesses to re-negotiate payment schedules is also now live on 0845 366 1207, and
Retail Trust has launched a fundraising campaign on Twitter, called #highstheroes, to
support affected businesses.
UK remains“on growth track,” says
Confederation of British Industry
The UK economy will continue to grow in 2011, albeit at a sluggish rate, and will pick up modestly
in 2012, according to the Confederation of British Industry’s (CBI) latest economic forecast.
Despite the squeeze on household incomes from higher commodity prices and an erosion
of business confidence, the CBI still expects the economy to grow by 1.3 per cent this year,
compared to the 1.7 per cent forecast in May. GDP growth of 2.2 per cent is expected in 2012,
unchanged from May’s forecast.
“The economic outlook has become even more challenging, but we still expect the economy
to continue to grow modestly this year and next,” explained John Cridland, CBI director
general. “The global economy has slowed in the face of several shocks including the Japanese
tsunami and soaring commodity prices.
“These factors have combined with political uncertainties around the Eurozone sovereign
debt crisis, the wrangling in Congress over the US debt ceiling and the policy tightening in
China to erode confidence and soften activity. It may be a lacklustre recovery, but with solid
net trade contributions and the positive impact of business investment, the UK will remain on
a growth track.”
ROUNDUP
Industry ensures hallmarking
survives Red Tape Challenge
Celebrity
endorsement
Hallmarking will not be scrapped as part of the Government’s ‘Red Tape Challenge’,
thanks to overwhelming support from the jewellery industry, the Department for Business,
Innovation and Skills has confirmed.
The initiative, first reported in May’s Jewellery Focus, sought to cut red tape around business
by scrapping or simplifying regulations that may be considered “unnecessarily burdensome,
overly-bureaucratic or completely redundant” by business and the public.
However, the industry responded in force in favour of retaining hallmarking in its current
form, and the regulation has now been endorsed by the Government as a “well-designed and
valuable” one that has widespread support, and will therefore be retained in its existing form.
Mark Prisk MP, the Minister of State for business and enterprise, said: “We are preserving
good regulation, such as the hallmarking regime – for which there was strong support”.
The Birmingham Assay Office, an early and vocal supporter of keeping hallmarking as it is,
added: “We are strong believers in the trade working together for its own good, and the level
of co-operation between the trade associations, trade press, buying groups and major retailers
was extremely gratifying.
“There was an unprecedented joint response, which carried significant weight and has
resulted in the outcome which we believe to be right and proper – that independent UK
hallmarking be retained in its existing rigorous form.”
Chloe Green,
Tresor Paris
Gold price reaches record high
Concerns over precious metal prices have increased yet further as gold hit record prices in
excess of $1,750 (£1,070) per ounce in early August.
As well as impacting on jewellery manufacturers and retailers, the situation called European
and North American debt recovery plans into question. “Gold hit another milestone... as
investors lose confidence in the ability of politicians to get a grip with the debt problems
weighing down on sentiment,” Michael Hewson, from the
CMC Markets trading group, told the BBC, adding that
Image: Giorgio Monteforti
“more advances look likely.”
“I think our industry is paying the price for the
speculation of global central banks who are buying up
the gold as an investment,” commented Simon Rainer of
the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA). “It’s a question
of supply and demand – the higher the demand, the
higher the price – and getting the right balance between
investment and use as a manufacturing commodity.”
Growth in the price of silver also resumed, reaching
nearly $40 (£25) an ounce – the highest price for
two months.
Tivon Fine Jewellery selected as
Diamond Jubilee partner
Tivon Fine Jewellery has been selected as one of the official partners of the Queen’s Diamond
Jubilee celebrations.
The family-owned company will support the Army & Navy Club’s year-long campaign to
celebrate HM the Queen’s 60th anniversary as Sovereign of the United Kingdom and her
other realms and Head of the Commonwealth.
Only organisations that have a “direct complementary association” have been selected to
partner the Army & Navy Club’s calendar of events, which includes a launch event at the
club’s Pall Mall headquarters next June. The Queen is a patron of the Club, and the Duke of
Kent is its president.
“We are proud and humbled to have been chosen to partner and participate in such a
prestigious event,” said a statement from Tivon.
Topshop heiress Chloe Green graced
the red carpet at the premiere of Harry
Potter and the Deathly Hallows – Part 2
wearing a green Tresor Paris Bastille
bracelet. She was accompanied by Ollie
Locke from E4 reality soap opera Made
in Chelsea; also reportedly a fan of
Tresor Paris bracelets.
The Bastille features crystal balls
finished with hand-applied crystal
and a variety of semi-precious stones.
The stones include magnetite –
known to be advantageous for asthma
sufferers and good for the skin – and
the bracelet is finished with a black
Tibetan cord.
11
12
ROUNDUP
High street recovery “cannot be
left to chance,” says BRC
Figures released last month demonstrating the rate of retail closures in different parts of the UK
in 2011 so far demonstrate the importance of protecting and promoting our high streets, the
British Retail Consortium (BRC) has said.
The statistics, released by PriceWaterhouseCoopers and the Local Data Company, showed that
poor consumer confidence and shrinking disposable incomes are having a negative impact on
non-food retailers and exacerbating long-standing problems in some of Britain’s town centres.
BRC director general Stephen Robertson said: “High streets are at the heart of local
communities and economies, providing jobs and essential services, but some are in trouble.
“The Government’s review of the high street comes at a crucial time, and must result in urgent
action. Practical steps are needed to protect and promote our high streets so they remain
attractive locations where businesses of all kinds can thrive. This cannot be left to chance. A
proactive approach to managing our town centres would benefit customers, communities, retailers
and other businesses. Priorities should include keeping business rates down, deterring crime and
having good, affordable parking and public transport.
“It’s encouraging that not all regions are seeing a fall in retail premises – some have seen a net
gain thanks to new stores opening. The priority must be protecting that growth and helping it
spread to all parts of the country, boosting town centres and creating jobs.”
£3 million collection of timepieces
previewed by Leonard Dews
Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe held a preview evening for a £3 million collection of luxury
timepieces in the Lake District on the 12 July. The collection, which was flown in from Basel in
Switzerland, was hosted by Lancashire jeweller Leonard Dews.
The preview drew potential collectors and
buyers from across the region, and featured a
£106,000 diamond-set Nautilus gents’ watch with
power reserve; a £96,940 Perpetual Calendar
Chronograph watch set with baguette diamonds;
and a new £22,000 ladies’ diamond and steel
Nautilus timepiece.
After previewing the collection, the 60 guests
were treated to a four-course meal at the Miller
Howe’s restaurant, which overlooks Lake
Windermere. In a rare break with protocol,
attendees were able to view the collection in its
entirety; something usually restricted, as collections
valued at more than £3 million are presented in
different lots for security reasons.
Leonard Dews owner Michael Hyman commented:
“There is a strong demand for quality wrist watches in
the region. I’m very excited to have brought this rare
and exciting bounty to the Lake District.”
Management restructuring at
Brown & Newirth
British commitment ring manufacturer Brown & Newirth has
announced a restructuring of its senior management team.
Sales and business management will be led by newlyappointed sales director John Ball (pictured) – formerly national
sales manager at CW Sellors and DMJ – while Amber Saunders
and David Heatlie have been appointed as head of marketing
and business development manager covering Scotland,
Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland, respectively.
“I’m excited by the opportunities that Brown & Newirth offers,”
John commented, “and I’m looking forward to being part of the
new management team that is focusing on re-energising Brown
& Newirth for today’s market.”
Abbeycrest chairman Simon Ashton added: “With John Ball’s
sales expertise and Amber Saunders’ marketing skills, we have a
progressive team that can lead Brown & Newirth into the future.”
Life begins
at 50 for
Home & Gift
Harrogate’s Home & Gift Show
celebrated its 50th anniversary
in July, with a reported recordbreaking 54 per cent increase in
on-site re-bookings and six per
cent increase in exhibitors.
Nick Coffey, show manager
of Home & Gift 2011, said the
success of the show – which took
place from the 17 to the 20 July
– underlined its significance and
position within the gift market.
“The 50th edition of Home & Gift
was a particularly important
one and I am delighted with the
positive reaction we have received
from the whole industry,” he
commented. “Next year, we will
be enhancing and expanding
the event, so we’re delighted to
report a record on-site re-book.
This gives us a very strong
platform as we look to build an
even better show.”
Home & Gift marked its
50th birthday with a series of
special events that included a
‘Sunday Sundowners’ celebration,
held at the historic Majestic
Hotel, with speeches from local
MP Andrew Jones and Mayor
of the Borough of Harrogate
Les Ellington, and an official
birthday party at Harrogate’s
Revolution Bar. Local baker
Betty’s also baked its biggest-ever
birthday cake for the occasion.
byaagaard.com
Visit us at the International Jewellery London 2011 Stand No. F11
Alternatively email [email protected]
14
ROUNDUP
And briefly
Hallmarking down again in July
Hallmarking continued its downward
trend in July, with only 896,015
items submitted for hallmarking to
Britain’s four assay offices – a 23.9
per cent year-on-year decrease.
Palladium was the only precious
metal to register an overall increase
in the number of items hallmarked,
with five per cent growth compared
to July 2010. Silver fell 31.3 per
cent and gold 13.6 per cent, while
platinum stayed relatively flat.
W&W opens first studio
Bespoke British jeweller W&W has
opened its first studio, located in
Webbs Road in the heart of Battersea.
“Breaking away from the traditional
shop front,” W&W said the studio
is “an inspiring environment where
clients can relax and enjoy their
jewellery experience.” Director
Richard Warrender added: “The
move to our new studio in Battersea
has been an exciting and progressive
time for us. W&W now has a
luxurious home where we can really
showcase what we are all about.”
Chamilia enters into global
partnership with Swarovski
Chamilia has announced that it has
entered into a “strategic partnership”
with Swarovski. The alliance will
see Swarovski combine its crystalcutting expertise with Chamilia’s
personalised jewellery to create a
special co-branded bead collection.
“Chamilia is thrilled to be working
with Swarovski to further develop our
personalised jewellery brand,” said a
statement from the company.
IDMA president hits out at
‘dangerous’ diamond tenders
The president of the International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA) has warned
that a number of large diamond producers are upending the sustainability of the diamond
industry at large by selling their production through tenders.
In an article that appeared in the July edition of HaYahalom, the magazine of the Israel
Diamond Institute, Moti Ganz said: “If the rough producers don’t wake up in time, it won’t be
a mere interference, but a blow to our very existence, capabilities and survival.”
Ganz argued that tenders make sense in a world where they are one of many instruments
of supply, but not when all or most supply is based on tenders. “Manufacturers that engage
in occasional diamond processing might be able to survive in a world where there are only
tenders,” he stated, “but even then it will be with difficulty… because those who manufacture
in large quantities can dominate the tenders and push prices to a level that medium-sized
manufacturers can’t reach.
“When we examine these aspects of tenders, we realise that they weaken each and every
link along the diamond value chain,” he continued. “The most prominent victims are
manufacturers and retailers, but there is also another – the rough producer, so dazed by the
hefty profits that it doesn’t notice the danger lurking around the corner.”
Change of management at
Chronoswiss as Lang steps down
Gerd-Rüdiger Lang, the founder of German watchmaker
Chronoswiss, has announced that he is to withdraw from
taking an active part in the daily running of the company.
Lang, who has served in his current role for 28 years,
will, however, continue to support the brand as the
chairman of a newly created advisory board – comparable
to a board of directors – and the company says it will
“continue as an independent family business in public.”
As of the 1 July, the board of management consists of
Sigrun Schillings-Heinen, Chronoswiss’s head of business
administration, and Karlo Josef Burgmayer (pictured), the
company’s head of sales.
“After the crisis and the economic difficulties of 2009
to 2010, the right moment had not come yet,” explained
68-year-old Lang. “However, in view of the great feedback
we received at the BaselWorld fair and our promising new
models and very positive development in the first half of
2011, the course for a successful future for Chronoswiss is
now set and I feel the time is ripe for a change.”
Strong sales for Argent of London
Argent of London has announced
strong like-for-like sales growth of
nearly six per cent for the first half
of 2011. The brand, which is noted
for its distinctive, affordable designs,
showed particularly strong internet
sales; up 44 per cent on the same
period last year. In announcing the
results, Gail Goodrich, managing
director and head of design, said
she was particularly pleased as they
“followed strong Christmas sales.”
CMJ Media appointment
CMJ Media, the UK’s dedicated
media company for the jewellery
industry, has added a new member
to its team – freelance jewellery
PR Katharine Realff. Katharine
has previously worked at Swarovski
Corporate Communications and APR
Communications, and will be making
use of her vast amount of experience
and contacts within the industry as a
consultant with the CMJ Media team
on various projects and events.
Dear Editor,
A valued customer of mine recen
tly asked us to forward any polic
y statements from bullion
dealers confirming the provenan
ce of the gold we purchased from
them, so I looked up the
websites of our principal suppliers
.
Some of them came up with a state
ment confirming that their gold
was ethically produced
– whatever that really means – and
others have not, as yet, put a form
of words together.
We should all, quite rightly, be conc
erned about the possible exploitatio
n of child workers,
dangerous working conditions and
poor housing, but where will this
paper trail end?
One well-known supplier is abou
t to introduce a limited amount of
‘Fairtrade’ gold, and
doubtless others will try to follow
suit, but this gold will come at a
price, and in limited
quantities, so only some customer
s will be able to deal in this gold
and salvage their green
credential pride.
Much of the gold produced today
goes to China and India for use in
factories producing
jewellery for sale in the UK. Are
their working and living condition
s comparable to this
country? I suspect not.
If manufacturers in this country
get tangled up in Fairtrade agre
ements they will have
prices compared even less favourabl
y to those of imported goods, and
heaven knows the
average jewellery wage in the UK
is poor enough (for those still in
business today).
And what of the ‘get out’ of ‘recycled’
gold. What were the working cond
itions like when
the gold was originally produced
?
The manufacturing jewellery trad
e in this country is slowly being stran
gled by imports.
Let us not contribute further to this
by tying ourselves in even more
knots.
Paul Alabaster
16
TRENDS
September style
With the autumn/winter season approaching, and
a plethora of jewellery and fashion events waiting
to open their doors this month, Janet Fitch delivers
some essential background trend information
S
ummer is lovely, but I have to confess to a sense of
relief when it’s over – even if there’s a last minute heat
wave. Most of all, I enjoy seeing shop windows stocked
with the new season’s merchandise after the slipshod
summer sales displays.
September, too, is crowded with shows to visit – IJL, Top
Drawer, Origin, Prêt à Porter Paris, London Fashion Week,
and at the end of the month, Goldsmiths’ Fair – with all
the excitement of spotting new talent and outstanding
collections for 2012.
But let’s stick with this season and what’s in store. In
fashion nowadays there is no single trend, but this autumn
there are several desirable and wearable style statements to
be seen. There’s the dominatrix, Miss Whiplash look; the
tomboy, sharply tailored look; traditional British tweedy
country style; sleek 40s or 50s glamour; or a 70s bohemian
look. Add earthy tones of mustard, red and olive, lots of lace,
lamé and defined waists, and you get the picture.
More importantly, what are the trends in jewellery
buying? I asked Nicholas James, a leading fine
contemporary jewellery maker and retailer with a
fashionable shop in Hatton Garden, for his opinion. I
wondered whether his strikingly modern white shop front is
daunting to customers in a street that is largely untouched
by new design influences. “Not at all – people are tired of
seeing the same things, and get a buzz from something
different, although classic pieces still sell well. We sell only
platinum, gold and also palladium for men’s rings. White
gold is currently selling well, as platinum is so expensive.
Rose gold and brown diamonds are having a real surge, as
are coloured stones in general – blue sapphires in particular
– and cocktail rings are popular. Customers making
bespoke and wedding purchases like to take their time, and
like to personalise a piece, taking part in the design, even if
it’s only opting for a tiny diamond on the inside shank of a
ring,” he explained. (www.nicholasjames.com)
Jaana Jatyri is the founder of trend forecasting agency
Trendstop, and predicts key trends for autumn/winter
2011/12 to include multi-cultural ethnic elements, Celine-
inspired new minimalism, and homespun rustic warmth.
“The consumer is becoming increasingly savvy and more
educated about trends, and, as a result, wants to buy the
latest looks as soon as they read about them. In order to stay
a step ahead of this accelerating trend cycle, retailers and
brands have to become smarter and faster at finding those
trends.” Good quality trend information is vital in today’s
market, and you can visit the agency’s website on a free
Trendstop TrendTracker app for iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry
and Android phones. (www.trendstop.com)
One name to watch out for is Alice Menter, launching
at IJL, who transforms materials like nuts, washers and
zips with gold or silver plating, multi chains, suede and
semi-precious stones and beads to create jewellery that is
industrial but looks glamorous and feminine and bang on
trend. (www.alicementer.co.uk)
Meanwhile, Mahtab Hanna’s spectacular catwalk creations
have aroused great interest, and she has now produced a
flattering and wearable range that is distinctively but subtly
influenced by Middle Eastern politics, culture, architecture
and nature. Black and white diamonds, gold and silver make
the Sensory collection an elegant fusion of high fashion and
detailed craftsmanship. (www.mahtab.co.uk)
I plan to discover the world of jewellery in western
Australia, at the exhibition at Lesley Craze Gallery
in Clerkenwell, London, entitled ‘Cinderella’s Stories:
Contemporary Jewellery from Western Australia’ and
showing the work of seven contemporary Australian
designers. The exhibition, from 9 September to 14 October,
coincides with the visit of Dorothy Erickson to launch her
book Gold and Silversmithing in Western Australia: A History, in
which all seven are featured, as well as the story of jewellerymaking in this remote province, which was known as the
Cinderella of the South until the discovery of fabulous
quantities of gold in the 1880s. Dorothy Erickson will also
be speaking to the Society of Jewellery Historians – an event
which non-members are welcome to attend – at the Society of
Antiquaries, Burlington House, Piccadilly, London W1J 0BE
at 6pm on 27 September. (www.lesleycrazegallery.co.uk)
TRENDS
Image: Joel Degen
Images: Simon B. Armitt
Image: Joel Degen
Alice Menter
Lesley Craze Gallery
Mahtab Hanna
Nicholas James
17
20
Watch this space
An
education
Feeling rather ashamed at his lack of
awareness of a particularly spectacular
watch brand, Keith Fisher rectifies
the situation through research
Watch this space
I
I also learned
that [the watches]
have become the
new international
symbol of the
world’s richest men
t was one of those moments you would not
wish on your worst enemy – even the motherin-law. A moment when you wish the ground
would open up beneath you and swallow you
whole. Squirm is not even the word to describe it.
I had better come clean.
I was recently invited to a very posh dinner
party by a great friend of mine (and watch
fanatic), Penelope. Over the years I have
frequently been able to advise her on the watches
she buys, chiefly because she loves to spend her
money on anything with a bracelet on it.
She wanted me to attend the party principally
because I have this reputation as a watch
collector and enthusiast. God knows where it
comes from, he says modestly!
Let us move on. The evening was going very
well as I quaffed the Veuve Clicquot, and the
small talk was most engaging. Then a gentleman
called Philip arrived a little late and most
apologetic. I couldn’t help but notice on his wrist
one of the most beautiful looking watches I have
ever seen. It took my breath away.
So, as the so-called ‘expert’, I proceeded to
enquire about it. “It is the Excalibur World
Time from Roger Dubuis,” he said. I replied
that it was a make that was unfamiliar to me,
and the look on his face – well; contempt is the
best way to describe it.
The silence was deafening as Philip
remarked: “I am surprised that you don’t know
of this very special Swiss watch manufacturer.”
Then he added (looking down his nose): “It
cost me £35,000.”
Oh my god. Why didn’t I keep my big
mouth shut?
I must add here that the rest of the
evening went downhill from that moment,
so the following day I did what most good
journalists do – research! The first publication
I turned to was the Bible of all things watches
– Wristwatch Annual: The Catalog of Producers,
Prices, Models and Specifications by Peter Braun
and published out of New York.
There on page 186 was Roger Dubuis, for
whom the manufacture is named. Oh, the
watches were just sensational. And I also learned,
when I called a colleague of mine, that they have
become the new international symbol of the
world’s richest men – like my fellow diner Philip.
The name was only founded as recently as
1996, as I discovered while devouring every
scrap of knowledge. Also, significantly, it
seems that Roger Dubuis made his name as
a troubleshooter for all the big Swiss watch
giants; if anybody had a problem it was soon
solved by Roger.
After branching out into his own
manufacture he is now enjoying a well-earned
retirement and the new lord of the manor is
the dynamic Carlos Dias from Portugal, who
was instrumental in setting up the company in
association with Roger.
More than 400 people work in the state-ofthe-art production establishment located just
outside of Geneva, and Carlos Dias has now
in fact established a unique jewellery line and
various objets d’art.
Eye-popping design, superlative handcrafted movements of high-tech complexity
– these watches are luxurious avant-garde
timepieces. They include the Monégasque;
the Easy Diver; the Flying Tourbillon; the
Much More Tourbillon; and the Hommage
Perpetual Calendar.
In times of crisis all you can do is hold your
hands up and admit defeat – and learn from
your mistakes. One thing is for certain – I won’t
forget the name Roger Dubuis in a hurry!
21
22
NEW TIMEPIECES
With its “cultivated elegance” and
“impressive intrinsic values”, A Lange
& Söhne says its new Saxonia Thin is
“a graceful and self-confident ode to
the heritage of watch-making artistry
in Saxony.” The Saxonia Thin adds to
the company’s re-designed Saxonia
family of watches, with a minimalistic
and slender model that features a
succinct minute scale, lancet hands and
svelte baton hour markers on a solid
silver argenté dial. With a diameter
of 40 millimetres and a height of just
5.9 millimetres, it is the watchmaker’s
flattest timepiece yet.
Information: www.alange-soehne.com
A major brand all over Europe, FESTINA
says that in countries like Germany, France,
Italy, Spain and the Benelux it is one of the
top three watch brands in the price range of
£59 to £299. Pictured is a model from the
Chrono Bike 2011 collection, which features
16 gents’ chronographs with a cyclinginspired theme that includes chain links in
the design of the top ring and sub-dials with
the form of a chainwheel. Eight models are
fitted with solid stainless steel bracelets, and
eight with a black rubber strap.
Information: 0207 405 5523 or
www.uniquejewelry.co.uk
RRP: £285
RRP: £14,000
With the launch of Cars 2
and the final installment of
Harry Potter this summer, Swiss
children’s watch brand Flik
Flak is celebrating with new
themed watches for children
aged five and up. Both feature
robust aluminium cases,
scratch-resistant mineral glass,
a turning bezel and washable
textile strap.
Information: www.flikflak.com
RRP: £29.10
Ones
to watch
Inspiration for Hamilton’s Khaki
UTC came from the pages of the
company’s own history books, paying
tribute to its 1940s marine chronometers
that integrated sidereal time. Sidereal time
measured time relative to the motion of the
stars around the earth, as opposed to that of
the sun. Today, its new trio of timepieces with
GMT functionality use contemporary design
and current airport abbreviations to celebrate the
“impressive voyage that navigational timekeeping
has made to modernity.”
Information: www.hamiltonwatch.com
RRP: £825 (prices may vary from time-to-time
based on rate of exchange)
Designed by Purists.
Fashioned by the Swiss.
The ZS Series.
From the Collection of
inspired, exceptional,
stylish designs.
See us at I J L
Stand G48
w w w.abart-uk.com
01422 317539
a.b.art - Jewellery Focus
93mm x 130mm
24
Silver
A silver lining
The silver jewellery boom of 2010 has been knocked off track somewhat
during the current year, as raw metal price hikes have become
all-encompassing. But how is the situation likely to change going forward?
And how is the trade coping with the cost? Rebecca Hoh-Hale reports
A
t the time of writing, silver prices were standing at
$38 (£24) per ounce, according to Cookson Gold.
Prices have been climbing ever since the global
recession and economic downturn that began in 2008,
with people buying into commodities such as gold, gas, oil
and silver as a more stable investment following the crash
of the property market. Of the precious metals, gold was
the first choice, but as prices rocketed, silver became the
more accessible and profitable candidate, but that too is now
reaching new highs. Investors predict that the trajectory will
continue, with silver rising to $45 (£28) per ounce by the end
of this year.
This is not news to those in the jewellery trade, who have
been battling the booming prices on a daily basis for some
time. So, in this challenging era, we asked a selection of UK
silver specialists where they see the silver market heading
and how they have absorbed the prices into their business
plans and products to keep money ringing through the tills.
Silver Willow, the company behind wholesale sterlingsilver-based Chrysalis and Stack Ring Co products, has been
tightening its belt behind the scenes, while also experiencing
an increase in consumer desire for silver pieces – both a
result of the recession. “Two years ago we were looking at
$10 an ounce, and now see it fluctuating up to $40,” says
Silver Willow’s Andy Gillard, “but these same circumstances
have also made the consumer look for jewellery which has a
classic, timeless look, and as gold prices are well known to be
high, silver is now the first choice.”
Silver Willow has endeavoured to keep its silver retail
prices low, despite the cost of the raw material, in an attempt
to keep business flowing. “Our main concern is maintaining
repeat business, so we have really cut margins in order
to stick to the catalogue price for a set amount of time –
something we guarantee to our customers and something
they really appreciate. Even now prices have only risen
25 per cent, when we are experiencing a 400 per cent rise on
the raw material.”
Another strategy Silver Willow has put in place is the loss
leader – a product sold at a low price (at cost or below cost)
so as to encourage consumers to peruse other Stack Ring
Co or Chrysalis pieces, enticing them to buy more. The
company also supports and supplies all its retailers with free
branded packaging and in-store marketing, free POS and
ready-made box sets to be included in window displays.
And what about the products themselves? How have
they been modified to weather the price boom? “We are
constantly looking for new ideas, to anticipate and promote
‘the next big thing’. We feel that glass beads have reached
their pinnacle and it is in fact silver charms that are on the
Silver Willow
Silver
21st Century Silver
popularity increase. Perhaps because this means that silver
can be bought in abundance but in small, compact sizes,
keeping the prices low? It is good for us as this encourages
consumers to buy many items, which can be alternated to
change the look of the piece.
With this in mind the latest Chrysalis by Silver Willow line,
entitled Meadows, features charm bracelets in both classic
sterling silver and silver with a rhodium plate. This will be
launched at IJL as the Chrysalis pre-Christmas collection.
Gillard has made the decision to keep the cost of the basic
‘starter’ bracelet low (£20 wholesale price) with the intention
that this will promote a long-term incentive to buy the charms.
The Stack Ring Co collections also make use of silver as
the primary raw material, with the launch of the Vintage
range. “The aged look that can be achieved when oxidising
silver is also keeping consumers interested,” explains
Gillard, “as the vintage look is now one of the main trends
in popular jewellery.”
21st Century Silver echoes the sentiments of Silver Willow,
feeling that silver jewellery is currently still in demand due to
its affordability compared to gold and the variety of styles it
can lend itself to. However, Tony Greene at the company also
voiced his concerns, particularly in regard to the troubled
US credit rating. “I really feel that silver jewellery sales will
start to suffer should prices rise further. It’s something that
we have been monitoring over the past few years and have
chosen designs that are less heavy and therefore still within
most customers’ budgets.
“Commodities such as gold and silver will remain high
until the US and Europe resolve their monetary problems.
When they do, large investors’ confidence in currencies will
be renewed and then the price of silver will return to some
level of normality. The trouble is that we do not know how
long this will take and so we are launching a new, lighter
range in September called Limelight.”
“Commodities such as gold and
silver will remain high until
the US and Europe resolve
their monetary problems”
Limelight is rhodium-plated contemporary jewellery,
without the high silver content, and therefore without the
high prices. The shapes are slim and delicate, with open
designs, eliminating the need for large amounts of the raw
material. “Sleek lines, well designed but with a wide-ranging
appeal,” adds Greene. “With the whole range retailing at
under £20 it should be just what the hard pressed shopper is
looking for.”
Similarly, Rich Sewell of silver specialist Vizati feels
confident in the company’s product but does not see a
turnaround in the very near future, and is making the
necessary changes to its designs. “Silver will, surely, remain
an extremely popular medium for jewellery while the world
price stays within certain confines. The obvious danger lies
in speculation and other factors driving prices too high, in
which case we will see a sharp drop in sales volume and the
metal being traded, in the same way that we did with nine
carat gold some years ago.” Sewell feels that the difficulties
will arise in educating the purchasing public as to the ‘new’
value of silver and the fact that larger and heavier pieces will
simply cost more than they expect.
Vizati has inevitably had to trim down weights. “Most new
designs will feature less silver,” says Sewell, “though in some

25
26
Silver
cases this may not be too visually apparent where the surface
area of, say, a pendant, can appear quite substantial but the
thickness is reduced. We will, however, maintain our popular
larger designs, which go up to a very substantial 200 grams
in weight.”
The company’s new White Satin range demonstrates
this move, with ‘cut-out’ designs helping to keep the prices
down. The latest Magic Earth collection also uses a small
but effective technique to lower costs: “This range features
rare stones and we are able to set large and spectacular
pieces, such as 40 millimetre by 30 millimetre oval
pietersite cabochon, with just four grams of silver, while
retaining an expensive-looking finish. Cutting corners need
not lessen quality.”
Jules Asch at Sussex-based The Silvery has also chosen
the design innovations route to maintain and boost silver
sales. “Because of these price hikes, there are so many people
making incredible things in much more affordable mediums,
such as brass, resin and felt, and customers have become
used to a much bigger choice of products in contemporary
jewellery at prices that are very competitive,” she says. “This
has meant those working in silver have really had to up their
game when it comes to making sure that their products are
appealing, unusual and of a high quality.
Vizati
“I believe now people are
expecting that little bit more from
silver products to feel they are
justifying the increased expense”
“While silver will always have its fans, I believe now
people are expecting that little bit more from silver
products to feel they are justifying the increased expense.
Our suppliers report back that our pieces continue to sell
well as they have the appeal of cast silver, but with a much
more competitive price.”
The Silvery is also considering the importance of
packaging and dressing the product to promote sales. “By
sticking to what we do best and not trying to be high-fashion,
we have been able to keep our costs down and incorporate
smart new packaging and more detailed point of sale cards,
which make our work more appealing to those looking to buy
unusual gifts, especially at Christmas time. There will always
be a large market for simple, wearable but unusual jewellery
such as ours, and so we decided to focus on working to the
highest standard possible rather than bringing out fancy new
pieces for the sake of it throughout this tricky year.”
The Silvery’s newest star item for autumn is the Acorn,
available as a simple pendant, earrings and charm bracelet.
The company is also bringing back its larger shell pendants,
due to great demand. The statement necklace seems a
permanent fixture in the Silvery’s list of best selling items,
and with this in mind it is also introducing the new Dancing
Feather as a large statement pendant to be worn on a longer
length chain or thong.
So it’s not all over for silver – the road ahead may still
be rocky but it seems the classic and versatile look of the
metal will have constant appeal. Manufacturers and retailers
may just have to be a little cleverer with both design and
marketing techniques, but this challenging era is also
resulting in some of the most beautiful and interesting pieces
of silver jewellery the industry has ever seen.
The Silvery
Supplier listing
21st Century Silver: www.21stcenturysilver.co.uk
AG Silver: www.agsilver.co.uk
Elaine Jenkins: www.elainejenkins.co.uk
Mayanna: www.mayanna.com
Silver Fantasies: www.silverfantasies.co.uk
Silver Willow: www.silver-willow.com
The Silvery: www.thesilvery.co.uk
Trollbeads: www.trollbeads.co.uk
Vizati: www.vizati.com
Green Tourmaline and Diamonds
See us at IJL Stand I 10
Sheldon Bloomf ield
0113 243 0100 www.sheldonbloomf ield.com heidi @ sheldonbloomf ield.co.uk
30
Set in stone
A career in colour
At the recent launch of the
new Bonds of Union collection
in London, Harry Waight
caught up with the man behind
the brand – gemmologist
and jewellery expert Denis
Bellessort – to find out more
about his fascinating career
“I have been
training my
eye constantly
since I was 12. I
believe that one
must train from
such an early age
to fully develop
the talent”
F
or gemmologist and designer Denis
Bellessort, jewellery is the passion of a
lifetime. The former head gemmologist
at Tiffany & Co and Cartier expert at
Cartier has been surrounded by jewels from
near infancy. He remembers being given his
first lessons in the art by a relative: “As a child
I spent years observing the gems of an uncle
of mine. I used to spend hours a day studying
them under natural light, candle light and
artificial light.”
It was during this time that he “fell in love
with the stones, the colour, and the light,” and
he went on to take trips to Paris and Cannes
during weekends and holidays, to observe
jewellery in different luminosities, and to see
how it was worn by fashionable women.
What began as a passion was soon transformed
into a vocation, with Bellessort journeying to
Thailand at age 18 to study in detail how stones
were cut by master craftsmen. From there he
began travelling between the world’s jewellery
centres, visiting gemstone centre Idar-Oberstein
in west Germany and on to New York, before
going to study at the prestigious Gemological
Institute of America in Santa Monica, from which
he graduated at age 20.
Bellessort then took this expertise with him
to London, studying further at Sotheby’s and
at Garrard, which was at the time the United
Kingdom’s Crown Jeweller, charged with the
upkeep of the Crown jewels. Here he learnt how
stones could manipulate light, “containing it
within the stone, or spraying it out, making the
jewels sparkle.”
Bellessort also enjoyed less formal training,
taking time to observe the way in which elegant
women around the capital wore jewellery; the
way in which different pieces complemented
different skins tones and facial types. This habit
of observing fashionable women is one that
has remained with Mr Bellessort, and which,
he notes wryly, has drawn the ire of his wife on
more than one occasion.
The matching of the jewel to the woman is a
recurring theme of Bellessort’s. He describes
how he can “always tell whether a piece suits
a lady. In jewellery you adjust a piece to suit
a person; jewellery must direct the eye, and
show up a woman’s charms.” He acknowledges
the famous Vermeer painting, Girl with a Pearl
Earring, as a master class in the power of
jewellery to captivate the eye: “It is amazing. You
see the pearl, and then the face. But irresistibly
your eye keeps being drawn back to the pearl.”
With a wealth of experience behind him,
Bellessort found work with Tiffany & Co
and Cartier, among others. At Tiffany he
worked first as jewellery manager, and later
as head gemmologist.
At Cartier, Bellessort had the fascinating job
of authenticating pieces thought to be by the
Set in stone
legendary luxury jeweller and watchmaker.
People would bring pieces to him from all over
the world – both watches and jewels – which he
would study for the telltale Cartier marks and
craftsmanship, before giving a thumbs up or
thumbs down verdict.
His skill in the field also attracted
less desirable visitors. Bellessort talks of
“professional fakers [coming] from New York
and elsewhere, bringing what they had made,
just to see if I could spot the fake!”
When asked to identify the quality that has
allowed him to achieve success in his work,
Bellessort replies: “Having ‘the eye’.” This
is not something that is acquired easily, and
he believes it is the single most important
attribute that has allowed him to flourish in
the jewellery trade. He harks back once again
to his childhood, saying: “I have been training
my eye constantly since I was 12; pushing
myself all the time. I believe that one must
train from such an early age to fully develop
the talent.
“Once you’ve got the eye you can see the
edge of the cut of the stone and then you can
see further details in the manufacturing and
making of the piece. And once you see this
you understand how a piece should be worn.
Being able to really see in this way gives me a
huge advantage in selling, authenticating and
designing jewellery.”
Not surprisingly this time spent at Tiffany
and Cartier brought Bellessort into contact
with some of the most elegant jewellery ever
made; “amazing pieces, mostly from the 1920s,
30s and 40s,” routinely made their way into his
offices. His eyes grow misty when asked about
some of the precious stones that have passed
through his hands: “I am privileged... I have
seen some amazing pieces – pearls, diamonds,
sapphires and rubies from all over the world.
At Cartier we would get emeralds from the
17th century, which we would then remount.”
Bellessort draws attention to one particular
piece, saying: “At the moment I’ve got a
necklace, which is a Mughal piece – one from
about 1640. It belonged to Shah Jahan, the
legendary builder of the Taj Mahal.” Bellessort’s
research indicates that the necklace is likely to
have hung around the neck of the man who
ruled the Mughal Empire during its golden age.
Though he enjoyed his time at Cartier and
other companies, Bellessort always harboured
a desire to break free and create a brand of his
own. These urges towards independence were
fine-tuned as he found himself “always noticing
people in the street, seeing the jewellery they
were wearing, and thinking: ‘If you changed
that just a little bit, it would work.’”
Deciding that he had the touch required
to correct these errors in style, he set about
planning his own range of jewellery. The result,

“I am
privileged...
I have seen
some amazing
pieces – pearls,
diamonds,
sapphires and
rubies from all
over the world”
31
32
Set in stone
“If you make
things by
hand… it has
the human touch
that is lacking
in machinemade jewellery”
after two years of preparation, was the launch of
Bonds of Union on 21 July.
The philosophy behind the brand is “the
premise that the superior quality craftsmanship
only usually found in high jewellery should be
available to consumers at an affordable price.”
Bellessort believes that the recession has
taught people to avoid spending their money
on passing fads and trends, projecting a return
to the stylistic elegance that prevailed in the
1970s, and arguing that “loud, brash styles
seem to be unpopular now. Instances like the
royal wedding are showing us a return to the
popularity of old-style beauty and elegance.”
The recession is also something that has
played to the advantage of the jewellery
industry in many respects, says Bellessort,
clarifying: “People are looking to buy one
meaningful gift rather than a few that will
disappear in time, such as perfume or candles.”
He says that during the lean years “pieces with
a signature did very well... and the exceptional
pieces of jewellery did extremely well – better
than ever, in fact.”
It is this trend that Bellessort hopes to
capitalise on with his new brand. He argues:
“If you want to buy a young lady a present for
about £100, £200 or £300, where do you go?
There aren’t many places. There is jewellery
that is trendy and doesn’t last very long, but I
think these days people want to give something
that is timeless and serious, but also affordable.
And I think I have achieved that.”
The manufacturing wing of Bellessort’s
operation is in India. The hunt for a workshop
was a difficult one, but Bellessort eventually
found what he was looking for in Jaipur, a city
in northern India. What attracted him to the
spot were the rich traditions of craftsmanship
that prevailed there – traditions that he says
have fallen by the wayside across much of
Europe. “In Jaipur they have the techniques I
used to work with 20 or 30 years ago. They’re
real jewellers – they work with their hands, the
same as the very best workshops in Europe,”
Bellessort explains.
Believing that this hands-on approach is
essential, he adds: “If you make things by
hand, then each piece is slightly different.
It has the human touch that is lacking in
machine-made jewellery.”
The result – Bonds of Union – is considered
by Bellessort to be his proudest achievement,
and it is in this direction that he sees the rest of
his working life unfolding. “From here I want
to work with mine owners myself, to get a large
quantity of special stones. And then establish
some close contact with jewellers, first in
England, and then abroad.”
He hopes that the future will see Bonds of Union
“becoming a loved signature” within the industry –
the next goal in an already sparkling career.
IJL 2011 show guide
36
Show time
As the IJL team prepares to
open the doors to Earls Court
for the 2011 event, it’s time to
plan your visit once again…
I
nternational Jewellery London (IJL)
returns to Earls Court from the 4 to
7 September this year, with the
organisers promising new exhibitors,
new product areas, new trends and new
show features, all designed to further
enhance the visitor experience.
The latest trends
With an exhibitor list including
such names as Aagaard, Gecko, Hot
Diamonds, Sheldon Bloomfield, Julia
Burness, Deema Collection, Gracie J
Designs and Perthshire, visitors to this
year’s event can expect to view a vast
range of products and services during
their visit, and prepare for the Christmas
season with new stock orders. But the
stands are not the only attraction…
Knowledge is power
The IJL seminar programme has
been unveiled ahead of the show,
and can be viewed in full at
www.jewellerylondon.com/seminars.
The seminars and panel debates
are free to attend for visitors,
and will be delivered in a new
purpose-built seminar theatre – the
Inspiration Theatre.
The line-up includes Jeremy Hoye,
discussing unique collaborations with
a focus on his latest venture, and
Elizabeth Galton, who will speak about
redefining luxury in the digital ages.
Shop-in-shops will be debated at the
event, and a panel featuring experts
from the Goldsmiths’ Company will
identify the latest developments in
materials, processes, training and
hallmarking. Meanwhile Martin
Rapaport will reveal his annual report
on the state of the diamond industry.
Keeping ahead of trends is an
ideal way to run a successful jewellery
business, and top trends forecasting
agency Stylesight will identify upcoming
trends to inspire visitors. Shop owners
and managers can also experience a
snapshot of a brand new inspirational
programme, in the Mary Portas Guide
to Successful Retailing seminar.
Retail Theatre will be the focus
for the motivational seminar by
Insight with Passion, providing vital
information about how to improve and
enhance the in-store retail experience,
and everything from online
opportunities to mobile commerce will
be covered in other seminars. F Hinds
will also reveal the outcome of its
High Street By Design competition,
launched last year, in a seminar about
the initiative.
Stephen Webster will take part in the
Great Debate, providing a talk about
Fairtrade Fairmined gold and showing
a video he made earlier this year while
travelling to find out more about the
issues. This will be the first time the
film is shown at a large industry show
and Stephen Webster will take part in a
groundbreaking Q&A session with the
rest of the Great Debate panel after the
screening. The Great Debate is hosted
by the Birmingham Assay Office.
On the catwalk
The IJL Runway is being launched,
which is a new catwalk running
the entire length of the Boulevard.
Sponsored by Aagaard, two shows are
scheduled for each day of the event,
with themes including: All that Glitters
is Gold; Trends by Hilary Alexander;
Modern Vintage; the Bridal Collection;
Watches – A Moment in Time; the
Rainbow (gems); and Fairtrade and
Ethical Jewellery.
“A selection of established and iconic
designers will be unveiling new
collections here,” comments co-event
director Sam Willoughby. “Designer
Brands will add even more selection
and opportunities to find your next best
seller.” Loose Diamonds & Precious
Gems is another new, dedicated product
area, and will draw attention to gem
companies which only provide quality
loose diamonds and precious stones.
Future stars
Finally, why not pay a visit to the Bright
Young Gems and KickStart stands?
The Bright Young Gem designers have
been selected by a panel of judges as
being hotly tipped for success; and
KickStart is a feature supported by the
British Jewellers’ Association, which
acts as a commercial launch pad for
the 10 promising designers selected
to take part, providing a boost for
the industry and allowing retailers
to source products from the best new
design talent of 2011. You can find a
sneak preview of the designers at
www.jewellerylondon.com/kickstart
“With so many new designers,
brands, initiatives and developments,
this year’s show is set to be an
outstanding one, with well over
500 exhibitors already lined up to
reveal their latest work,” concludes coevent director Syreeta Tranfield.
In the zone
Among the new product areas being
introduced at IJL this year is the
Designer Brands area, which will be
launched within the Design Gallery.
For more information about IJL, please visit
You can also register to attend via the website.
or call 0208 271 2144.
IJL 2011 show guide
Exhibitor list
5C Group
G81
A
A E Ward & Son Ltd
J79
a.b.art
G48
A.G. & Sons (UK) Ltd
E141
A.S. Diamonds
J19
AAGAARD A/S
F11
Aaron Shum Jewelry Ltd
i145
Abigail Stradling
C31F
Actacrown Limited
J59
Adaptive Consultancy Ltd
C119
Adele Taylor
C43
ADL International Magazine GMN
Advalorem Ltd
G131
Advance Solutions
C148
Aesthetic Jewellery Company
Limited
J167
Aim Display
E148
AK Bijoux Minerals
J70
Alan Ardiff
D48
Alexander Davis
C10
Alexandra Simpson
C41
Alexis Dove Jewellery
C29
Alice Gow Designs
D15
Alice Menter
C95
Alish Wholesale Ltd
J49
Almost Perfect
D41
Alraune Lapidaries
Edelsteinhandels GmbH
K40
AMA Agencies
F154
Amanda Coleman
A15
Amanda Cox Jewellery
C16
Amber Hall Jewellery
F38
Amrapali UK Ltd
i71
Amy Keeper Jewellery
C31A
Ana Verdun Jewellery
E14
Anand And Anand
J38
Anchorcert Diamond Certification
Service
H109
Andea Jewellery
D101
Andrew Geoghegan
E64
Annie Banian
C94
Annie Mundy Jewellery
E88
Annika Rutlin
B46
Anthony Blakeney
A43
Antwerp Diamonds Ltd
G31
Anya Ghadimi
D47
Apple Display & Shopfitting Ltd
C141
Apsara
J29
Argenterie Giovanni Raspini Spa
F20
Aris Jewellers
i138
Artisan Jewelry
D89
Art-Stone
C170
Ashiana
A103
AsiaGems.co.uk
J119
Azteca Trading
A81
B
B K Jewellery
J154
Babette Wasserman
C60
Bachtar Kleinod oHG
J81
Bacio Italy Srl
F148
Bass Premier Co.
G101
Beadstone
K128
Becca Jewellery
C2
Beijing Yue Xiu Sheng He Xian
Co.,LTD
C116
Benchpeg Ltd
E50,GMN
Benor Designer Jewellery
C90
Beth Gilmour Jewellery
B37
BH Multi Com - EFFY
H30
Big Ant Sp zoo Sp.K
C32
Bjorg Design GmbH
G100
BKT (Rings) Ltd/TJW (Diamonds)
Ltd
H59
Black Sea Jewels by Ia
B45
Bossert GmbH
E130
BQ Watches
H48
Bransom Retail Systems Ltd i100
Brave Designs
C98
Breuning GmbH
H61
British Jewellers’ Association H151
Brown & Newirth Ltd
G51
Buildview Jewellery Limited K162
Buja
C49
Bullion Bond Limited
C159
Burkmar Jewellery
A21
Button and Co
F131
By Elise
E78
C
C W Sellors
G71
C.D. Co. Ltd
J166
Cabbage is King
C31E
Carrs Silver
E11
Cathy Newell Price
A19
Ceylon Gems ltd
J41
Ch. Dahlinger GmbH & Co KG
C121
Chamilia Europe Ltd. F121,E121
Charlie High Designs
D13
Charmian Beaton Design
D108
Charming by Ti Sento
G140
Chavin Jewellery
D10
Chris Hawkins
C21
Christelle Ltd
i155
Chun Yuen Jewelry Company
Limited
K164
Ciara Jewellery Co Ltd
J169
Citrus London Ltd
C100
Claire English - Special Jewellery
Co
C31B
Claire Troughton Jewellery
A38
Classic Time Ltd
H149
Clot’s Image Jewellery Co. Ltd.i165
CME Leicester Limited
E81
COCOTIER Co.,Ltd.
A55
Codis Maya
C58
Coeur de Lion
E89
Collette Waudby Ltd
A40
Colorjewels
J145
Contor Aichinger
E51
Corona Jewellery Company H31
Cresber
H78
Cudworth Enterprises Pty Ltd E151
Curteis Ltd
H121
D
D Scott-Walker
H19
Dabbah Ltd
D109
Daisy Jewellery
G134
Daisy Knights Jewellery Design D40
Dan Jewellers Ltd
i1
Dancing Apsara Ltd
C48
Daniel Vior
C44
Dante Cenci Limited
G89
David Peterson Clocks
i140
De Mexico
F101
Deakin & Francis Ltd
C69
Deckwell Gold Ltd
J143
Deco Echo
F50
Deema Collection
J120
Delcam UK
C160
Department of Export Promotion,
Chanthaburi
i88
Design & Style
J90
Designed by Bond
C54
Detlef Menard
C101
Dewcarat Ltd
K144
Di Perle GmbH
K30
DMJ Ltd
F61,F59
Domino
G131
Donald Clarke
F100
Doreth Jones
C31G
Double Arts Jewellery
Manufacturer Ltd
J144
Dower & Hall
G78
Drew Perridge
B12
Dureco AG
K108
Dwarka Gems (Europe) Ltd
J20
DWJ(B’ham)Ltd
H35
E
E. Wolfe & Co.
E.F.D. Diamonds Co. Ltd.
Eastern Mystic Jewellery
EJI
Elran Jewellery Ltd
Emeraldcroft Diamonds
Emir Kuyumculuk Ltd
Emma Turpin
Emsaru
Erfurt Design
Ethically Precious Ltd
Euro Pearls
H101
K18
B39
J153
A89
K20
H148
C31H
i18
D111
E109
G41
F
Farah Qureshi
B1
Fashion and Jewels Ltd
E170
Fashionville.Co.,Ltd
E59
FDJ - Fairmont Diamond Jewellery
J30
Fei Liu Fine Jewellery
G121
Ferrara GiFè Gioielli SAS di
Ferrara Luigi
i81
Festina
E119
Fi Mehra Designs
B48
Fierros sprl
K84
Filigree Street
D70
Fine Gems Collection GmbH i70
Flash Jordan B51
Fleet Promotional Packaging C151
Fred E Ullmann
H21
G
G McKenzie
F41
G&T (HONGKONG) Co., Limited
C108
Galaxy USA Inc
J1
Gecko
F31
Gem A (The Gemmological
Association)
J50
Gemex H38
Gemological Institute of America
i91
Gemvision Europe Ltd
C120
Genie Jewels Ltd
i20
Georgini
F150
Germès by Saveria Geronimi A25
Gift Time Ltd
i140
Gina Melosi C31C
Gina Stewart Cox
E40
Glacier Jewellery
i124
Glenn Campbell
B19
Global Color Research Mix
Publications
B90,GMN
Global Jewelry Special
GMN
Global Sources Publications Ltd
GMN
Global Timepieces & Jewelry GMN
Gold Pack Packaging Ltd
C129
Goldmark
H129
Gold-N-Diamonds, Inc. / Jewelry
Super Center
i119
Goldschmiede Atelier
i95
Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design
Council
C51
Gracie J
A32
Greenspark Limited
G49
H
H S Walsh & Sons Ltd
A131
H W Tankel (Scotland) Ltd
H71
Hallmark Design & Shopfitting
Ltd
i101
Hanron Jewellery Ltd
J40
Hans D. Krieger KG
G61
Hans Rivoir Gmbh
i28
Happy Dragon Arts Ltd - Helen
Fung
K120
Harrison Brothers & Howson Ltd
C115
Hatton Garden Metals
H1
Hazel Atkinson Jewellery
B55
Hean Studio Limited
H119
Heinz Mayer OHG
G11
Henrich & Denzel GmbH
G99
Henry and Powell
H39
Herbert Marx Ltd
i89
Heskia Brothers - Almor Design
i139
Hesse + Co.
H69
Hirsch Watch Bracelets Ltd H91
HK Jewellers
i78
Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’
Association
K166
Horo Sales
i69
Houlden Group
H115
House of Panache (UK) Ltd
i40
I
IAS Training
A141
IDEX Online- International
Diamond Exchange
i109
IGI
i21
Imagem
K28
Inbar Shahak Textile Jewelry D19
Independent Diamond Laboratory
J80
Indo Gems Handels GmbH K110
Institute of Professional
Goldsmiths
i135
International Bullion
G21
International Diamond and
Jewellery Co. (I.D.J.C)
G101
International Gemstones Ltd J82
International Packaging
Corporation (UK) Ltd
D119
Itchydo
K68
J
Jack Schpektor
H10
Jacob Issacharoff Diamonds/ JID
i111
Jade Rich Jewellery Ltd.
J147
Jaipur Silver Jewels PVT. Ltd A105
Jax Jewellery Ltd
A101
Jayce Wong Ltd
A39
JCI Jewellery Ltd
E71
JCK Magazine
GMN
Jeremy Hoye
E68
Jersey Pearl
F81
Jessica De Lotz
D42
Jessica Flinn Designs
A36
Jessica Jewellery Design
B15
Jewel Arts Ltd.
K154
Jewel World Limited
C91
Jewellery Focus
J94
Jeypore Creations Inc
E1
Jian of London
F71
Jianhui London
D1
Johnson Matthey Precious Metals
Marketing
H11
Joias
J61
Jon Vincent The Watchmaker
Limited
i143
Joseph & Pearce Ltd
i35
Joseph Lamsin Jewellery
B59
Josyfon Ltd
H88
JRJ Jewellery Ltd.
E41
JSC Krastsvetmet
H45
Jules Jules
B49
Julia Burness Jewellery
B54
Just Brothers & Co.
A151
Justin Duance
D43
Juvela Gems
C163
Juvi Pearls
C109
K
K & R Jewellery
K K Jewellery Co Ltd
H111
J157
37
38
IJL 2011 show guide
Kali Ma Designs Ltd
F30
Karen Hallam
A30
Kathleen Baird
B33
Kerstin Laibach
D27
Keywest Color Stone Chain, Inc i131
Kiki Charms
D25
Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery Fty
Ltd
K150
Kirin Jewelry Company
F109
Kit Heath Ltd
F91
Kleshna
C70
Kling GmbH
E130
Kokkino
D11
Kranz & Ziegler Denmark
E39
Kristal Diamonds Ltd
K10
L
L M Jewellery Ltd
H131
La Diosa
C31J
La10
C17
Laroche Opals
J69
Latham & Neve
D28
Laura Gravestock
B42
Laurel Jewellery Ltd
H81
Lavan Jewellery
A29
LBJ Jewellery
E101
Leon Israel Designs Ltd
i58
LEONARDIarte
B76
Leslie Donn Ltd
H50
Leyla Abdollahi
A33
Linda Macdonald Jewellery B29
Li-Ren Stone & Pearl Jewellery E90
Lola Rose
F151
London Pearl (London) Ltd H10
London Road Jewellery
G141
Lonmin Design Innovation Award
H11
Lorenz, Dieter EdelsteindesignA11
Lotus Jewellery Company Ltd J155
Luca Barra
F48
LUCKY EYES , LONDON
B78
Luke Goldsmith
E18
Luxor Gioielli snc
H158
M
M. Weskamp / I. von Hoerde GbR
K78
M.S. Kays Jewellery
i41
Magda T
D104
Magdalena Tello
C15
Maker Mends
i98
Malcolm Morris
D18
Manihir International Co Ltd K92
Manu Werkstatt fur Schmuck F108
Marcia Lanyon Limited
J51
Marcus McCallum FGA
J31
Maria Black
C12
Mark Milton Ltd
G91
Marlene Hounam
A35
Martick Jewellery
F1
Mathieu Tormen Joaillerie
A41
Matt Aminoff Pearl Company i38
McCourt’s Jewellery
H64
McLauchlan Gemstone Traders
Ltd
J89
Meira T. Designs
i90
Metal Meringue
A101
Metalor Technologies (UK) Ltd
H119
Michael Peckitt
B53
Midhaven Ltd
F51
Min Fletcher Jones
A28
Mirabelle
C80
MIRPURI
C31D
Mirri Damer
B35
Mishca London
A49
Missoma Ltd
H18
Momocreatura
B13
Mounirs Design
E48
Mouse Jeweller
MSK Display Works
MSS Watch Company
Murray Ward
Muru Jewellery
My Pearl GmbH & Co Kg
E16
C161
A171
C111
E70
H60
N
Namiki Co Ltd
J130
Nannapas Ltd
B101
Natalie Jane Harris
B34
Nathan & Stock Ltd
C79,D74
National Association of Goldsmiths
H151
Neilson Photography
C117
Nelson Jewellery Arts Co Ltd J163
Nereida Jewellery
E98
Newbridge Silverware
F170
Nexus Pearls
J108
Nick Hubbard
C26
NOA
C105
Noble Jewelry Ltd
J150
Nomades
H98
Nomination srl
F111
O
Opals Mine Factory Limited B109
Oria Jewellery
A18
Oriental Gemco
H41
Oro Ltd
i121
Ortak Jewellery
G88
Otis Jaxon
D71
P
P J Watson Limited
G111
P. Kennedy Ltd
E61
Palmun Ltd
H51
Pascale Forcetti Jewellery
A51
Paula Bolton Collection Ltd D91
Peace Of Mind
D94
Pearce Displays
E150
Pearls Of The Orient
F40
Penny Warren
D14
Perfection Jewellery Ltd
J10
Perthshire Jewellery CompanyE159
Peter Lang Australia
C34
Phuze
A48
Pica Design
F108
Ping Ping Jewellery
A91
Pollards International Inc Cool
Case Company
E124
Poly Philippou
D29
Pomegranate
E29
Potters (London) Limited
A121
Prism Design Ltd
F39
Pure Stones
J101
Pursuit Software Ltd
H150
R
R.E. Morrish
i80
Rachel Entwistle A24
Rachel Galley Jewellery Design Ltd
B60
Radiant Diamonds
J21
Rahul Exports
J115
Raymond Hak Ltd
F99
Rebecca Anne Johnson
B36
Rebecca Joselyn
A1
Responsible Jewellery Council J95
Richard Cooper and CompanyF18
Ritone Jewelry International
Limited
K140
Rocks-Watch
i149
RodgersandRodgers
D88
Roma Vincent : Metal Manipulator
A37
Rosina Beech
B24
Rowena Park Jewellery
D49
Royal Jewelry Mfg.
H58
Royal Selangor Pewter UK Ltd F170
Rubie Rae
Rubin & Son
Ruppenthal (UK) Ltd
Russkiye Samotsvety
Ruth Bridges Jewellery
A60
C128
i99
i48
D45
S
S J Jewels F28
SafeGuard Jewellery Valuation
Service
H109
Sally Ratcliffe Jewellery
C45
Samuel Jones (Pearls) Limited i50
Sandia Silver
A79
Sara Preisler England
C19
Sarah Ibrahim
C31i
Sarah Jordan
C61
Sarah Packington
B14
SC LULAV CONSULT SRL D95
Scala Gioielli Srl
i79
Scherer Creations
E99
Schmuckbasar de Tudi Billo E161
Sea - Noy Design
A115
Sharose Designs
B99
Shaun Leane
G109
Shawkat Shami Fine Jewelry Salon
i68
Sheena McMaster
B38
Sheila Fleet Jewellery Ltd
A59
Sheldon Bloomfield Ltd
i10
Shimara Carlow
B32
SHO Fine Jewellery Ltd
E60
Shona Marsh
C3
Shwet Ratan Impex
J39
Sian Bostwick Jewellery
D29
Sian Elizabeth Hughes Jewellery
B16
Sico International Ltd
K26
Sigal Distribution Ltd
B89
Sil Gold
i29
Silver Art Palace
J91
Silver Cherry Ltd
C71
Silver City Jewelry Inc
G50
Silver Delights Ltd
B81
Silver Fantasies
F140
Silver Service
E24
Silverado / Anna Gee Ltd
B71
Silverline Jewellery Ltd
F58
Silvermine (UK) Limited
E21
Silveroq
D90
Silvex Los Angeles
G70
Simon Kemp Jewellery
A47
Simplicity ET
i39
Since 1853 Ltd
H141
Singhal Gems
J58
SK Diamonds
H89
Skulls and Orchids D21
Smets Diamant
J11
Smile Jewellery
A99
So Jewellery
A71
Solitaire Gemmological
Laboratories Ltd.
J110
Sonal Talgeri-Bhaskaran London
B39
Sonya Bennett Jewellery Ltd A31
Sophia Mann
B13
SPARK - Firma Corundum Sp.
z.o.o.
F89
Spinning Jewelry A/S
F130
SSP Steidle GmbH
C150
Stack Ring Co and Chrysalis by
Silver Willow
F49
Step by Step
G48
Storm - Sun 99 Ltd
G95
Strom Brothers Ltd
E19
Stubbs & Co (UK) Ltd
G119
Stunolite ltd
D80
Summer and Silver
B93
Sun Enterprises BV
J111
Sunrise Gems
J99
Sunshine Exim Traders Ltd
i11
Susan Plowman
B23
SuShilla
C11
Susie Warner
D20
Sutton Tools
A119
Svane & Lührs ApS
F135
T
T H March & Company Ltd C138
T O’Donoghue Ltd
i51
Taka Jewellery (Hong Kong) Ltd
i161
Takao Cioco & Sartori Jewellery C89
Takat Gems USA Inc./Takat Jewels
Inc.
i19
Talbots (Birmingham) Ltd C130
Tara Kirkpatrick Jewellery
B31
Tezer GmbH
G108
Thai Design Distributors Ltd E91
Thai Silp Company
i118
The Best Joyas
GMN
The Bijou Box Company
C131
The Birmingham Assay Office H109
The Branch
B41
The Company Of Master Jewellers
Ltd
H99
The Goldsmith Magazine
GMN
The Goldsmiths’ Company
i63
The Jeweller’s Box Company C140
The Jewellery Display Co Ltd C149
The Laboratory at the
Birmingham Assay Office H109
The Mineral Warehouse
J109
The Opal People
K88
The PMC Studio
C81
The Rowell Trading Company J121
The Silvery
B21
Ti Sento
F161
Tianguis Jackson
E49
Tina Lilienthal
B47
Tirisi Jewelry
G151
Tivon Fine Jewellery
H108
Tomasz Donocik
A39
Town Talk Polish Co Ltd
E128
Treasure House Limited
E79
Tregawne
A111
Tresor Paris Hasbani UK
i49
Trollbeads
F90
Turquoise Jewellery Ltd
F141
U
Ungar & Ungar
Unique Jewelry Ltd
United Color Gems Inc
H79
E115
i31
V
Vera Sterchele
H128
Veronique Designs Limited
A13
Very Precious
F142
VFM Consulting Ltd
C158
Vimal Arts & Crafts
F160
Vinod Kotahwala Inc.
J28
Vista Jewelry Ltd
i141
Vizati Ltd
D81
Vogue Diamond
J68
W
W Hamond - Original Whitby Jet
Shop
G79
Weston Beamor
G131
William Cheshire
C30
World Shiner (UK) Ltd & Mireya
(UK) Ltd
H80
X
XMC International Ltd
H139
Y
Yaron Morhaim Jewellery Design
Ltd
B80
Yuki Mitsuyasu
B11
IJL 2011 show guide
E
C169
F
F160
E161
E160
F161
C160
F154
G
F150
E159
C159 E150
F151
E151
H
G151
G140
C150
C149
C148
C141
Mall
Room
C140
F148
F141
F142
G141
G134
F140
J
i165
J166
H148
H147
i148
i143
H140
i155
K
J167
i161
H150
E148
E141
A149
I
H151
K164
K166
J169
J163
K162
J154
Crussh
K154
J157
J155
i149
C151
H158
H149
C158
A151
Inspiration Theatre
Sponsored by Spinning
Seating
C161
J150
H141
J153
K150
A141
DP
A131
C138
F130
E130
C131
F139
G131
G130
F135
C130
i138
H139
i145
J144
i141
H131
J145
J147
J143
K140
Cappuccino
K144
Espresso
South African Pavilion
A168
A161
Hampton
Room
Industry
InsightS
F170
E170
C
Loose Diamonds & Precious Gems
C163
C170
i140
A171
A
39
F121
H129
G129 H128
i128
i121
i124
Boulevard
Bar
J122
E115
C116
C100
Catering
E109
G109
G108
H108
H109
i108
i109
i104
J109
J108
D91
C95
C91
C90
A91
K108
E101 F100
J100
H101
G101
K104
Diamond
Club
Lounge
i100
J101
C99
C98
IJL
Sales
Lounge
J111
i101
E98
E99
E90
F99 G95
F90
G99
H98
H99
i98
i99
E91
J99
J94
i95
B93 C94
D94
F91
H91
G91
J95
K96
J91
K92
Editors
Choice
Feature
i90
i91
D89
D88
C89
B89
A89
E88
D90
Cafe Bar
&
Up to
Restaurant
F88
E89
F89
G89
G88
H88
H89
i88
G81
B80
B81
D81
E81
D80
A81
C80
C81
H80
F81
i89
J88
i85
J84
H81
i80
i81
J89
J90
K88
K84
J85
Global
Media
Network
Lounge
J81
J82
C70
C79
D71
B71
C71
B79
E78
D74
C68
F71
E70
G70
E71
E68
C69
E61
F61
E64
C60
B60
A61
C61
E60
A60
F.Hinds
High Street
by Design
Competition
Winners
G78
E79
Design
Gallery
Bar
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Seating
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Bright Young
Gems
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Dash!
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KICKSTART
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Up to
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& Seminars
A13
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Victoria
Room
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Harbour
Room
A32 A36 A38
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IJL Runway Sponsored by AAGAARD
J80
B78
A69 B68
Whitehall Room
J110
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D101
D70
Retailing in a
Multichannel World
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F108
F101 G100
A71
Press
Office
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E105
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A99 B90
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Successful
Retailing
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The Restaurant
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Seating
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Chamilia
D108
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B
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Sponsored by
C115
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J116
Gems
i119
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Watches
H119
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F111
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Design Gallery
E119
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Silver Jewellery
C119 D119
A119
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Fine Jewellery
E124
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To
Business
Centre
J139
Hong Kong Pavilion
C124
C120
A111 A115
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J124
Designer Brands
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A121
Jewellery Solutions
Up to
Seminar
Room
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Windsor
Room
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ENTRANCE
ENTRANCE
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I
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Organisers
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Industry
40
Now
trending…
Syreeta Tranfield, event manager for
IJL, catches up with Stylesight’s Sandrine
Maggiani and Claire Foster as they prepare
for their forthcoming trends seminar
Sandrine Maggiani
Claire Foster
I
nspiration is key to good business – when jewellery retailers and
designers feel inspired, they are at their best. Gaining an insight into
the latest trends, whether they are retailing trends or design trends, is
an excellent way to feel inspired. This is the reason we provide specialist
trend forecasting at International Jewellery London (IJL).
Leading international agency Stylesight is presenting a trends seminar
this year. I interviewed speakers Sandrine Maggiani, European trend
director, and Claire Foster, accessories editor, ahead of the show.
What will you present at IJL?
Sandrine: Stylesight will present A/W 12 Megatrends + Jewellery, offering
an in-depth look at the overarching trends influencing design for the
A/W 2012 season, with a focus on the subsequent design directives for the
jewellery and accessories market. The four trends presented will be Raw
Energy, Sensing Matter, Wild Craft and Digital Dimension.
Lots of retailers come to IJL to source products for the Christmas period.
What will be the hot trends for Christmas in terms of jewellery design?
Claire: For Christmas, we will see a return to simple constructions and
a celebration of standout gemstones. Geometric, modernist themes
intercept settings and design details. Clusters of mixed colours and
materials evolve the classic holiday season showpieces to create a
contemporary aesthetic. Layered stones and fresh placement update
cocktail rings and statement neckpieces.
Please could you give us an insight into some of the jewellery trends we can
expect to see in 2012?
Claire: A focus on natural elements brings a new attitude to raw minerals,
with marble and wood being used to reflect wild craft and raw energy
themes. Natural leather and warm toned metals are also emerging as
important materials for jewellery designs, confirming the shift to noble,
honest concepts that relate to the human sensibility. Colour palettes for
decorative flourishes and foundation materials take reference from the
great outdoors, celebrating the unique tones found in nature.
An introspective viewpoint also evokes a new theme centered around the
human body, with anatomical keynotes inspiring new jewellery structures.
Cells, bones and blood inspire and evolve previous animalistic themes to
set a more graphic look. Laser cut or intricately
constructed cuffs, collars and rings are a
directional adaptation of some of these key items.
Cosmetic tones ground this look, which also
features highlights of deep reds, and fiery hues.
Speaking to a truly futuristic theme, digital
design contributes to the new fluidity and rapid
prototyping silhouette direction. Innovative
materials, such as matte finish metals, plastics
and ceramics, are key. This new feminine
aesthetic can be applied to statement jewellery
pieces from neckpieces to structured bangles.
Why is an understanding of the trends so important
to both manufacturers and retail jewellers?
Claire: Understanding and developing the
trends for your customer is an essential part of
the process these days, as a huge majority of
consumers are increasingly fashion and trend
savvy and so know what seems new, and what
they have already bought into. Globalisation
and the access to unlimited references online
mean that the fresh take on seasonal trends is
key for designers to stay ahead and make wise
choices about materials, colour and design.
Are there basic rules to interpreting a trend?
Claire: It is always essential to understand your
customer. This means the difference between
a think tank directional concept and the
outcome of that concept becoming a wearable
and desirable piece of jewellery. Apply your
customer needs and spending habits to develop
the trend in a way tailored to the market, with
consideration to your costings and resources. At Stylesight we look for trends emerging in
a number of diverse places – from the street,
to the runway, to the vintage markets in France
– so an overview of factors often results in us
recognising that something is happening and
being reported on across a number of countries,
market levels and mediums, confirming initial
trend directions.
The Stylesight presentation is taking place at IJL on
4 September at 1:45pm in the new Inspiration Theatre,
and is free for visitors to attend.
Visit us at the international Jewellery london 2011 stand no. e39
Alternatively email [email protected]
or call our UK sales office on 01530 588166
2011
New launch for September - Limelight, the new rhodium
plated jewellery range from 21st Century Silver.
Plus more exciting silver additions.
21st Century Silver - the contemporary jewellery specialists.
Tel/Fax: 020 8339 3731
E-mail: [email protected]
Web: www.21stcenturysilver.co.uk
TAKING STOCK
­­
Ruth Bridges will be showing her contemporary diamond solitaire
ring collection at IJL this year. The new 18-carat gold rings with brilliantcut diamonds are available with 0.15-, 0.25- or 0.50-carat stones of GSi
quality. The 0.50-carat ring has the added detail of tiny diamonds on the
collet. The rings sit nicely alongside Ruth’s popular existing collections
and her collection of pear-shaped, stone-set stacking rings, which are also
new for IJL 2011.
Information: www.ruthbridges.co.uk or [email protected]
IJL stand: D45
­­
Harrison Brothers & Howson
has launched a Diamond Jubilee
collection, which is illustrated in its
four-page leaflet. It will be stocking
the range in such a way as to enable
quick delivery, and the stand shown
is available when certain collections
are purchased at no extra charge.
The company has two other
catalogues that show all its current
ranges, which are usually held in
stock for immediate delivery.
Information: 0207 622 7212 or
[email protected]
IJL stand: C115
Takin
Taking
stock
Ch Dahlinger says that its new window displays for the autumn will
¬¬
help attract customers into its customers’ shops. “Our display collections
and special packages will refresh your presentation and are available at
keen prices and with quick delivery,” the company comments. “Accent
colours, such as red and lime green, are still a key feature of any window
display. New ideas in packaging, particularly the 325 Elegance collection
of boxes and Christmas limited-edition bags and boxes, will make an
impact as you prepare for the busiest time of the year.”
Information: 01473 620 720 or www.dahlinger.com
IJL stand: C121
­­
Stainless steel jewellery continues
to increase in popularity, and
with precious metals becoming
prohibitively expensive, IFJ Limited
of Reading says now is the time
to take a serious look at lower cost
alternatives. IFJ has been supplying
quality stainless steel jewellery for
over five years and has many happy
customers. Its comprehensive range
includes bangles, bracelets, rings and
pendants for ladies and gents.
Information: 0118 947 1405 or
www.steelyourself.com
IJL stand: I140
¯¯
Ntinga’s range of fine diamond
eternity rings and silver gem
jewellery now includes Pure
Attraction, a silver, magnetic,
multi-coloured collection of five
colours and three thicknesses, with
matching attachments and rings
and complemented with a number
of accessories. The item pictured is
from its Gem Silver range, which
includes matching rings, earrings
and pendants in amethyst, blue
topaz, citrine, smoky quartz, and
lime quartz.
Information: 0208 959 6550,
[email protected] or
www.ntinga.co.uk
IJL stand: J116
43
44
TAKING STOCK
Jack Schpektor started in the
­­
diamond business in Amsterdam
when he was 19 years old, first
cutting and polishing the diamonds
and progressing onto sorting them
by colour, quality and polish. After
a few years he moved to Antwerp
and started his own business,
mainly specialising in natural fancy
colour diamonds and servicing
customers’ white diamond requests.
Jack, a member of the Antwerp
Diamond Exchange and Club and
London Diamond Bourse, is based
in Antwerp and London and says
his guarantee is “trust, service and
a quick response.” He is able to
offer a selection of fancy colours
from 0.05 to four carat, with and
without certificate.
Information: www.saymazal.com or
[email protected]
IJL stand: H10
¯¯
Sunshine Exim has been supplying fine
jewellery to wholesalers, manufacturers and
retailers for over 20 years. Over these years,
the company has become known for making
quality items that range from classical and
contemporary designs to custom-made pieces of
jewellery. Sunshine Exim says its main aim is to
continue supplying fine jewellery to its existing
clientele while also entering into new longterm partnerships with prominent wholesalers,
manufacturers and retailers. A large selection
of diamond eternity rings is also available, and
custom-made pieces can be supplied three
weeks after final approval.
Information: 0207 242 9299 or
www.sunshineexim.com
IJL stand: I11
¬¬
¯¯
The new Cabaret collection from
Chamilia is inspired by the Montmartre
district of Paris, where the culture of
cabaret began. The rich colours and
ornate details seek to “perfectly capture
the spirit of the cabaret.” Sterling silver
is complemented by opulent colours
from crystal Swarovski Elements and
Italian Murano glass, “bringing the best
of artistic influences from the past to
the present.”
Information: 0844 811 2142 or
www.chamilia.com/uk
IJL stand: F121/E121
Gracie J produces
distinctive, contemporary,
design-led jewellery made
using ceramic beads dipped
in silver and threaded onto
fine quality leather. Featuring
a varied selection of many
designs – choker-style chunky
pieces, strings of beads and
statement jewellery that turns
heads – design award winner
Gracie J says all are “beautifully
packaged, and perfect if you’re
looking for something in
the mid-price range that will
appeal to customers looking for
that extra special yet affordable
gift.” All items are designed
and made in the UK.
Information: 01578 760 370 or
www.graciej.co.uk
IJL stand: A32
­­
IJL will again see the attendance of Nexus Pearls, which will
be exhibiting new ranges of jewellery including pieces in silver,
like the bracelet shown. Nexus says Tahitian cultured pearls are
featuring heavily this season, but that instead of using traditional
gold – the price of which is at an all-time high – it’s using silver
to keep the ranges at a low price while keeping the quality high.
Pearl strands will also be available, with some offers across the
ranges and a full range of clasps to complement.
Information: 0121 554 9999 or [email protected]
IJL stand: J108
46
TAKING STOCK
The Bug Store, part of Reading-based Gift Time Products,
¬¬
has introduced a new product – the Just Look Mini Microscope.
A useful jewellers’ tool to check those tricky-to-see hallmarks or
to sell on a retail basis, Gift Time says the special crystal optics
and high-intensity LED light give “the ‘wow’ factor like you’ve
never seen before.” A full CD catalogue is available on request,
or a price-free version can be downloaded from the website.
Trade price lists are sent on request.
Information: 0118 947 1405, www.justlookmicroscope.co.uk or
www.gift-time-products.co.uk
IJL stand: I140
­­
For strong and striking
yet delicate pieces, Julia
Burness Jewellery has a
unique collection of sterling
silver and vermeil lace
jewellery. The company also
specialises in one-off bespoke
work, creating jewellery from
pieces of vintage lace, and
is especially ideal for bridal
wear, being able to match
jewellery perfectly to a lace
veil or gown.
Information:
[email protected] or
www.juliaburnessjewellery.com
¯¯
With jewel tones set to be one of winter’s hottest trends,
Marcia Lanyon Ltd says it’s ready to “encourage your
adventurous side” with a wide range of vibrantly-coloured
stones and beads to choose from. Browse from a hand-picked
selection ranging from playful dyed howlite and striking lapis
lazuli to elegant briolettes and beads in all the colours of the
rainbow, plus an extensive collection of freshwater pearls.
Information: 0207 602 2446 or [email protected]
IJL stand: B54
IJL stand: J51
¬¬
The PUK welding device
is a compact and versatile TIG
welder from Sutton Tools. Fine,
precision welds can be carried
out either free-hand or under
a 10x binocular microscope.
Made by Lampert in Germany,
it has operating principles very
similar to those of a laser welder.
Sutton Tools explains that the
device allows clean, instantaneous
welds, and in contrast to soldered
joints, heat is highly localised and
rapidly dissipated. This allows
components to be handheld and
welds to be made close to heatsensitive gemstones.
Information: 0121 236 7139 or
www.suttontools.co.uk
IJL stand: A119
¯¯
Charmian Beaton will be showing three new collections at
IJL 2011, all launched this year. Shown here is her Mariposa
range, which has been a great success this summer and is
expanding for IJL, with coloured gemstones added in place
of the brilliant-cut diamonds. Mariposa, meaning butterfly in
Spanish, is an eye-catching cocktail range in frosted 925 silver
and 18 carat yellow gold, set with trillion-cut lemon citrine
and round, brilliant-cut diamonds. It can also be ordered in
925 silver, set with the aforementioned gemstones.
Information: 01622 609 650 or [email protected]
IJL stand: D108
REGENT’S PLACE, 338 EUSTON ROAD, LONDON NW1 3BT
T: 02075448572
F: 02075448401
[email protected]
www.advancesolutions-uk.com
50
TAKING STOCK
London Road, the distinctive gold
jewellery brand that launched nationally
last September, is introducing several new
collections at IJL. These include the Black
Diamond Tassel collection, and Willow – a
new pearl and yellow gold collection created
exclusively for London Road by designer
Hannah Bedford. London Road will also
be showcasing additions to some of its
best-selling ranges, including the Kew and
Portobello Diamond Raindrops collections.
Information: 0844 871 8454 or
www.londonroadjewellery.co.uk
¯¯
At this year’s IJL, Mancini
is “proud and excited” to
introduce to the UK its newest
range – Monella Milano.
Consisting of silver jewellery
set using crystals made with
Swarovski Elements, Mancini
says Monella is “perfect for
fashion-savvy shoppers looking
to snap up affordable delights.”
Information:
[email protected] or
www.monella.co.uk
¯¯
Sema Sezen, the designer and owner
of Tezer, has this season taken her
inspiration from the unique texture of
lace. The collection takes the delicate
intricacy of lace and transforms it
into a girly sterling silver collection of
necklaces, bracelets, pendants, earrings
and rings. The necklaces are adaptable
to be worn either long or short and are
also available in gold plate. For more
information, please contact UK sales
agent Sharon Acton.
Information: 07774 928 045
IJL stand: G141
IJL stand: F139
IJL stand: G108
¯¯
­­
Deema is a designer based in Oman who seeks to “capture the latest
trends and insights of the prestigious jewellery markets.” Combining this
with Arabian Gulf heritage, Deema has come up with state-of-the-art designs
for Arabian jewellery with a modern look, adding a different flavour to
the options available at this year’s IJL. “Our creativity and adherence to
excellence is expressed in hundreds of forms and styles,” says the company,
“delivering a very unique appeal and jewellery that is finely-finished,
in exclusive and limited editions.” Deema’s collection includes rings,
pendants, necklaces, earrings, bracelets and bangles in precious metals and
incorporating an array of precious and semi-precious stones and pearls.
Information: [email protected]
IJL stand: J120
¬¬
Trollbeads’ latest Debut bracelets offer a great selection of colour combinations for stylish looks this season, including the
emerald tones of the Green Shadow and the Silver Trace beads of the Free Spirit bracelet (pictured); and the black and white
duo of Black Spot and Black Armadillo in the Timeless bracelet. There are six bracelets in the new range, each featuring a
Trollbeads sterling silver chain, a pretty lace Lock and two specially-selected Murano glass beads in complementary colours.
Information: 0117 377 4214 or www.trollbeads.co.uk
IJL stand: F90
52
TAKING STOCK
­­
In our June issue, Jewellery Focus chose Nicola Bond, of
Designed By Bond, as our featured designer following her
successful launch at Spring Fair. As well as her Medina range
and her newer Rye collection, she will be premiering her men’s
jewellery at this year’s IJL. These pieces feature blackened silver,
kiln enamels and her distinctive trademark raindrops.
Information: 07931 928 937 or www.designedbybond.com
IJL stand: C54
¯¯
Lavan Designer Jewellery, established in
1993, will be exhibiting its latest designs at IJL
for the first time this year. David Weinberger’s
jewellery collection features intricate
contemporary and classical designs combining
gold, sterling silver, precious and semi-precious
stones, including opals and pearls. Delicate
lines and soft shapes are finished with the
“unmistakable and subtly luxurious gleam” of
precious metals. All jewellery is hand-made in
Buckingham.
Information: www.lavan.co.uk
IJL stand: A29
¯¯
Ag Silver will launch its autumn 2011 collection in August, giving
customers a chance to start planning their Christmas purchasing. With
jewel colours on-trend this season, the collection includes colourful pearls,
rich natural stones and plain silver and 18-carat gold mixed with cord,
for an up-to-the-minute look. Charlie Maddocks, Ag creative director,
comments: “With jewel colours and rubber, cord and leather set to be all
the rage, we’ve had fun with our autumn launch. We’re also giving our
customers the opportunity to place their Christmas orders earlier this
year, giving us a chance to back best-sellers, and in return we’ll be giving
those accounts that order early a little something back.”
Information: 01603 631 314, [email protected] or www.agsilver.co.uk
­­
With gold prices rocketing, Gemelite says more and more customers
are switching to palladium. Gemelite is able to offer diamond-set jewellery
at price points close to its nine-carat range. Hallmarked by the London
Assay Office, and with no need to rhodium-plate, with Gemelite jewellers
now have an alternative to nine-carat white gold. Feel free to contact the
company for a catalogue or to book an appointment to see its range.
Information: 0800 023 2952 or www.gemelite.co.uk
Following a successful Harrogate Home & Gift Show, Valentina is looking
¬¬
forward to a very busy autumn season. Its new collections – Equinox, Berrylicious
and Avant Garde – are reportedly proving very popular, with colours that
include warm chocolates, reds and golds, vibrant greens and teals and rich, dark
amethyst and soft pinks in Murano glass rounds, squares and hearts. Its Romance
collection (pictured) features Murano glass hearts suspended from hand-strung
Swarovski and agate bead necklaces and bracelets, with matching drop earrings.
Information: 01638 552 879 or [email protected]
54
TAKING STOCK
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H3-D Technology proudly
introduces a new service
called Jewellery Innovations.
Combining H3-D’s CAD/CAMbased design and manufacturing
expertise with over 20 years
of goldsmithing and casting
experience courtesy of Mandos
Designs, Jewellery Innovations
offers the entire jewellery
manufacturing process as one
simple service. By bringing
all stages of manufacturing
together under one roof, the
company says it can guarantee a
quick, thorough and easy-to-use
service. “Whether it’s handmade, CAD-made, or a complex
combination of the two, you can
be confident you will get results
both you and your customers will
love,” the company comments.
Information: 0207 242 5535 or
www.jewelleryinnovation.com
¯¯
Hatton Garden-based Villamarts Ltd is a premier loose
diamond wholesaler and jewellery manufacturer. The
company says that its focus is on competitive prices and
excellent service, and that its friendly staff members are
available to assist with any enquiries. Villamarts has a large
available stock of loose certified diamonds that can be viewed
online, and interested retailers can also visit the showroom to
view the company’s range of diamond jewellery, including
diamond-set wedding bands, engagement rings, diamond
studs and line bracelets for all price ranges.
Information: 0207 417 0260, [email protected] or
www.villamarts.co.uk Dutch brand Bulatti says it has “once again
­­
produced a stunning collection of jewellery for the
more discerning retailer, who demands quality,
style and original design.” Its latest collection –
which makes extensive use of Swarovski crystal and
Swarovski pearls and is delivered with gift packaging,
guarantee certificates and free POS merchandise – is
only available via selected and approved retailers,
“ensuring maximum profits and exclusivity within an
area.” Contact Lorraine Thomas for more information,
or view the full collection on the company’s website.
Information: 01245 360 949, [email protected] or
www.bulatti.co.uk
­­
Elaine Jenkins is a Liverpool-based jeweller and
silversmith. After graduating from Liverpool Hope
University with a Bachelor of Design with Honours
degree in 2008, she set up business in a Liverpool
studio making collection work for galleries across
the UK and commissions for private clients. Elaine’s
work is inspired by the natural world, focusing on
texture and contrasting materials, and is made
predominantly from silver, gold and precious
and non-precious stones; although she also uses
platinum within her commission work. Elaine is
currently working on a new collection that will
be launched at the Liverpool Design Show (7 to
9 October) and will also be available at the MJN
Christmas exhibition at Manchester’s Art Gallery.
Information: 07519 205 303 or
www.elainejenkins.co.uk
­­
Chrysalis has just launched its new range of
Baltic amber beads to complement its vast collection
of colourful handmade glass and cat’s eye beads.
Each amber bead has a sterling silver insert and
Chrysalis branding. The amber beads come in
shades of milky white, lemon, rich shades of cherry
red and deep honey tones of cognac, and in both
faceted and cabochon finishes. Each amber bead
adds an individual touch to jewellery as no two will
ever be identical.
Information: 01823 698 898 or www.silver-willow.com
For information please contact Fable Trading Ltd on 0117 37 7 4214
W W W.TROLLBEADS.CO.UK
56
TAKING STOCK
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Cavendish French will be launching
a new collection of friendship bracelets
at the 2011 Autumn Fair show (hall
3, stand P01). The range is skilfully
designed and hand-crafted using silk,
sterling silver, semi-precious stones
and crystals in a range of colours to
suit every fashion or style. Wearers can
create their own look by wearing several
together, as is the current trend, or as a
single bracelet “to add that final touch
of colour, sparkle and style.”
Information: 0800 731 4389,
[email protected] or
www.cavendishfrench.com
¯¯
RGM Products Ltd stocks a
wide range of cultured freshwater
pearls in different shapes and
sizes, including traditional long
drilled and potato pearls, Biwa and
larger, more unusual shapes. All are
available loose-strung or finished
with a choice of fastener. RGM also
supplies a wide range of gemstone
jewellery, from inexpensive chip
necklaces to fancy beads and
matching silver and nine-carat gold
earrings. The company is a direct
importer and says it can therefore
offer competitive prices with a
prompt and reliable service.
Information: 01904 720 000 or
www.rgm.co.uk
¬¬
¯¯
Twenty years ago, Mayanna made the
observation that amber has been used to
adorn men and women for at least 10,000
years and pledged to do its bit to continue
that tradition into the next 1,000. Now, in
the second decade of the new millennium,
Mayanna says its amber jewellery is as
fresh and modern as ever. “The selection
of the very best amber pieces, combined
with expert use of silver and gold, makes
Mayanna amber jewellery what it is,” the
company says. “It is beautifully designed
jewellery with interesting lustrous amber.”
Information: 01494 524 124 or
[email protected]
¬¬
Perfect for the new season, Candy Bling bracelets are the
latest accessories from Charms UK. Candy Bling is part of the
Candy Bracelet collection, which includes over 50 bracelets and
necklaces created in sterling silver with CZ, crystal and different
colours of silk cord. The bracelets are available in one-, threeor 11-bead versions with black, white and coloured crystal and
sterling silver.
Information: 0117 968 3979 or www.charmsonline.co.uk
¯¯
To fill what it sees as a void in the
modern silver ring market, KisSilver
has introduced a range of contemporary,
stylish and cocktail ring designs.
Through constant demand, it has also
added a collection of silver watches
to its range, which come with a twoyear guarantee, while parent company
Hanalex Ltd has brought out a brand
new line of gold hoops, speciallydesigned to be extra lightweight to help
meet certain price points. All KisSilver
products come with a box, and display
stands are available.
Information: 01270 872 395 or
[email protected]
With 40 years
of experience
in diamond
manufacturing
and trading,
Shrenikstar
offers a wide
range of polished
diamonds in
all shapes and
colours. The
company specialises in 0.005pts up to 15 carats
in qualities from IF to PQ3 in all colours from D
to Z. Natural fancy colours are also offered, both
with and without certificates. GIA, HRD and IGI
certificates are additionally available, mainly in
sizes from 0.30pts up to 15 carats.
Information: 0032 3233 5916 or [email protected]
58
IJL 2011 show guide
Creative inspiration
The British Jewellers’ Association (BJA) has always championed good
UK design, and this year’s IJL is set to be packed with companies
that have created products to excite the professional buyer. Lindsey
Straughton, BJA marketing manager, picks out a few…
Chavin Jewellery: stand D10
Chavin Jewellery (pronounced sha-veen), a new designled ethical jewellery brand, is launching its first collection
– Antiquity, designed by Ana De Costa. It combines the spicy
mythology, colours and craftsmanship of Peruvian culture
with spic-and-span interpretations by modern, freethinking
designers. Jaguar rings are made from oxidised silver with
black diamonds and rose gold with rubies; and there is also a
rose gold double Jaguar head with rubies.
www.chavinjewellery.com
Malcolm Morris: stand D18
Chavin Jewellery
Malcolm Morris
Malcolm Morris has over 30 years of experience in
designing and making stylish contemporary silver and gold
jewellery. He will be exhibiting his most popular range
called Apple Blossom, along with his two latest collections
Magma and Oyster.
www.malcolm-morris.com
William Cheshire: stand C30
William Cheshire is a designer-maker who creates elegant
and exciting jewellery, comfortably mixing fine fashion with
bespoke and the commercial world. Working in silver and
gold, the jewellery is often embellished with precious stones
or enamels. This stylish pendant from the Libertine range
(pictured) has received international acclaim.
www.williamcheshire.com
William Cheshire
Anthony
Blakeney
Anthony Blakeney: stand A43
Anthony Blakeney’s work this year has been inspired by the
twisting and turning of plant roots, especially the rose. He
takes a real piece of root, casts it, and manipulates it into a
beautifully tactile and wearable item. Daring and strikingly
simple, this range will add interest to any display.
www.anthonyblakeney.co.uk
Alexis
Daisy Knights: stand D40
Daisy Knights, who cut her teeth on the Bright Young Gems
and KickStart stands, exhibits in her own right this year.
Every piece is handcrafted in her studio in the Cotswolds
or in her workshop using 100 per cent recycled silver and
ethically sourced materials. Her use of gold vermeil gives
pieces a rich look at affordable price points.
www.daisyknights.com
Dove
Daisy Knights
Alexis Dove: stand C29
Experienced designer-retailer Alexis will be showing the
silver ‘Curio’ range at the show alongside her popular wild
rose and blossom ranges. All available in silver with gold and
rose gold vermeil options.
www.alexisdove.com
Alexis Dove
IJL 2011 show guide
Tomasz Donocik: stand A39
Tomasz will be showing his latest fine jewellery collection of
18 carat white, rose and black rhodium gold with round
diamond pave and semi-precious stones of round ruby and
tsavorite. Inspired by the paradox of the natural world, the
‘Garden of Good & Evil’ collection fuses the sinister side
of beauty with the evident, as delicate snowbells with fluid
moving cups juxtapose Venus fly traps.
www.tomaszdonocik.com
Andrew Geoghegan: stand E64
Andrew
Tomasz
Donocik
Geoghegan
Five years since he last exhibited at Earls Court, Andrew
knows that he has to pull out all the stops to show the
industry that he truly is a tour de force in the bridal and
cocktail market. New launches include gents’ wedding rings
(a first for AG), the Satellite pendant, Celestial pendant and
the Triumph. Pictured is his 10 millimetre Tahitian pearl and
diamond Mohawk ring.
www.andrewgeoghegan.com
Doreth Jones: stand C31G
Doreth Jones has been inspired to create some new
and exciting pieces for her debut at IJL, incorporating
coloured stones. Working in recycled silver, Doreth Jones’s
award-winning pieces are the embodiment of urban chic
and intricate beauty, appealing to the confident and
discerning individual.
www.dorethjones.com
Doreth Jones
Claire English – Special Jewellery Co: stand C31B
Claire English
Claire’s whimsical, unmistakably English designs are
informed by her insatiable interest in the narrative potential
of objects. Like a magpie she gathers stories, presenting
familiar items in a mischievous and unexpected, yet
commercial way.
www.claireenglish.com
Cabbage is King: stand C31E
Cabbage
is King
Greig Alderman from Manchester makes exquisite statement
pieces, which serve to blur the distinctions between jewellery
and art. Cabbage is King is characteristically original as Greg
attempts to incorporate sociological ideas into his thoughtprovoking designs.
www.cabbageisking.com
Emma Turpin: stand C31H
Emma’s aim is to bring the old and the new together. She
has a passion for traditional craftsmanship, which is reflected
in her style. Emma’s ‘Maidens Garlands’ collection uses a
technique developed by herself, to create hand-folded fine
silver rosettes.
www.emmaturpin.com
Emma
Turpin
The BJA (IJL stand H151) has launched its new website –
– with a fresh look to support its ever-expanding services and benefits.
“We have updated the member services and have added relevant new
services to the Association’s portfolio,” comments Lindsey Straughton.
“The Designer Showcase will give our growing number of designers the
opportunity to enhance their entry with more images to help sell their
products.” Meanwhile, the ‘Commission A Designer’ page has proved
most popular and lists designers by geographical location to help the
public find someone local.
59
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11:57
Page 1
Next generation
1
3
Focus
on
children’s
jewellery
Bold, bright and colourful, jewellery for
children is a booming sector that is showing
no sign of abating. Jon Chapple explores
some of this season’s latest trends
W
hether geared towards
toddlers or teenagers, the
children’s jewellery sector
is one part of the British
market that continues to boom, with
evidence pointing towards the demand
for jewellery for little ones growing at
an astonishing rate. And as the sector’s
profile and the number of brands
involved increases, more retailers are
sure to want to take advantage of the
potential profits to be made in the
years ahead, meaning there’s never
been a better time to explore the range
of options available.
Research has shown that from a very
young age children are naturally drawn
to bold, brightly-coloured objects,
so it’s no surprise that eye-catching
collections in a range of vibrant colours
are very much in vogue when it comes
to children’s jewellery.
Jo for Girls, which experienced
300 per cent growth last year, says it’s
currently “finding the market buoyant”
in terms of the demand for its “fun,
glitzy, girly and classic designs.”
Creators Keith and Linda saw the
potential for the children’s jewellery
market seven years ago, and say the
secret to their success is recognising
that little girls and teens “more and
more want to be older than they are.
“By including a number of grownup designs and re-designing them
especially to fit the smaller person, Jo
for Girls is achieving rapidly growing
sales,” they comment. “Although this
is a children’s range, we are selling to
both adults and children so it is vital
to have packaging that appeals to all.
The inclusion of an exclusive, corded

61
62
Next generation
2
2
4
‘trophy’ bag to the bright display
already available really makes an
impact on both display and sales.”
With huge demand for its cord
friendship bracelets, Jo for Girls has
recently created eight designs of pink
cord with silver charms, while a new
three-strand pink cord has also been
added to its charm bead collection.
Its Birthstone Angels range – which
comes with a unique ‘sentiment card’
in co-ordinating colours – is also
proving popular, and the Tantalising
Strawberry collection is “being sold by
the punnet!”
The Little Angels range is a designer
collection of children’s jewellery from
Mancini “for the little angel in your
life.” Each piece from the Little Angels
range, which includes rings, necklaces,
bangles and bracelets in designs like
ducks, angels, hearts and butterflies, is
created using 925 sterling silver with
stones sourced for their outstanding
colour clarity. All Little Angels products
come gift-wrapped in luxury brand
packaging, exclusively designed to
make a special keepsake.
Kali Ma Designs’ latest range of fun
Ruby B. children’s jewellery, introduced
at Home and Gift this year, is ideal for
children from three years old through to
teenagers. The range includes colourful
enamelled party polka dots, hearts and
strawberries, precision-cut sterling silver
animal charms, alphabet and number
charms and a sparkly assortment of
Austrian crystal studs and charms, with
each individual piece carefully packaged
with its own branded Ruby B. bag and
organza pouch.
“Children’s jewellery is proving to
be an expanding market area where
customers are looking for something
a little different while maintaining
a competitive price,” says Kali Ma
managing director Emma Perkins.
“Our stunning little pieces are available
with a complete set of branded point
of sale displays that provide a very
marketable and unique assortment to
the retailer.”
Priding itself on its “treasure trove
of little gems for junior jewellery
fanatics,” Paradise Jewellery has
an extensive silver jewellery range
that includes crystal ball pendants
decorated with colourful flowers and
swirls, pretty hearts, cute animals,
fairies and flowers in crystal, cubic
zirconia, mother of pearl or simply in
plain silver. Finish off with Paradise’s
choice of fine chains and packaging to
create the perfect gift.
1) Jo for Girls: 01887 820 760
(IJL stand E159)
2) Kali Ma Designs: 01803 872 555
(IJL stand F30)
3) Mancini: 0191 214 7074
(IJL stand F139)
4) Paradise Jewellery: 0117 377 4280
66
Designer
Global gathering
Since early childhood, Pippa Small has been
traversing the globe, developing interests
in both human rights and traditional
jewellery design. Louise Hoffman finds
out how she has succeeded in marrying
these two elements, to positive effect
Your journey to jewellery design has taken you around the world. Can you tell us
the story of your career to date?
I was very lucky to have a mother who loved adventure and who took us
travelling with her from a very young age. My earliest memories are of
the bazaar in Marrakech, filled with storytellers and magicians, healers
and dancing monkeys, and ever since I have had a fascination with other
cultures, landscapes and ways of life.
I started to travel on my own while at university, where I had gone to
study anthropology and later a master’s degree in medical anthropology.
By then I was very interested in human rights, particularly the rights of
minorities and indigenous groups who have been so marginalised and
discriminated against all across the world.
After getting my MA I went to work with a local grass roots organisation
in Sarawak and then Sabha in Borneo on land rights issues and cultural
rights. I was in awe of the women and men I was working with – they were
from the local Kadazan and Penan tribes and were so brave and risked so
much to fight for the right to protect their ancestral lands from loggers or
palm oil plantations, and large scale development projects.
From there I went to work in Thailand with another NGO (nongovernmental organisation) working with indigenous peoples from all
over Asia. I continued to work in this area for a few years, finding the work
fascinating and the communities I was lucky enough to spend time with so
Designer
“I have made jewellery since I was a child, gathering
beads, buttons, pebbles and shells and making strings
of long necklaces and bracelets to hold close to me”
rich with knowledge about their environment and how to live with it. It was
a very inspiring time for me and fuelled my interest in jewellery as a way of
communicating so much about who we are and our place in the world.
I have made jewellery since I was a child, gathering beads, buttons,
pebbles and shells and making strings of long necklaces and bracelets
to hold close to me. Over time my jewellery started to be in demand,
and when I came back to London after spells working in Asia I would
have requests from friends to make pieces – some would bring boxes of
treasures they had found on the beach or gathered on travels, and with
my little drill I would string these stories together to make pieces they
could wear out of all their souvenirs.
I remember one summer when I was working with Burmese refugees in
Thailand and then went on to have my first show at Paris Fashion Week, I
was astounded that people could think of such frivolous things as clothes
and jewellery when there were so many terrible things happening in the
world. I have since found a sense of balance and understanding that all
these different realities do co-exist.
I started to sell to a few shops like the Cross in Notting Hill Gate and
Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge, as well as Barneys in New York. I was
working with shells, rough crystals and river-tumbled gems that I would
drill and string. I later started to work with a Nepalese silversmith and
designed collections that were inspired by ancient Greek and Japanese
jewellery, and by the tribal pieces I had seen the ladies and men wearing
in the communities I spent time with. I started to work in Jaipur about
15 years ago – finding a team of goldsmiths and stonecutters whose work
was beautiful, as well as finding India a constant source of inspiration.
The appreciation grew and I started to sell more and split my time
between working with local NGOs in Asia and designing jewellery. Then
about nine years ago, a friend – the gallerist Rebecca Hossack – suggested
I go and work in Botswana with the San Bushmen of the Kalahari. It was
a wonderful experience, and I ran a workshop on craft with the women
– we worked with leather, ostrich beads and traded glass beads, making
jewellery with porcupine quills, eggshells and pieces of scented wood, and
bags of leather decorated with coloured beads.
I went back the following summer and we made a collection of pieces
to put on show at an exhibition in London, as well as a film to show where
the pieces came from. I realised that there was a way of working with
people that generated a much-needed income, allowing them to open a
local market for tourists who came to the national parks nearby, and also
most importantly giving the men and women a sense of self-confidence –
they were proud their work was being bought and taken to London, and
that people would see who they were and where they came from.
In between my Botswana work I was hired to design for Tom Ford at
Gucci – it was a great honour and took me a long time to believe they
had not made a mistake! I was given free rein to design using colour;
a more handmade feel that one usually does not associate with Gucci;
and more organic forms. It was a wonderful job and I learnt a great deal
about working for a big company, working with a team and making full
collections. I then went on to design for Chloe under Phoebe Philo,
and I made collections for Nicole Farhi, Bamford and later started to
collaborate with ethical brand, MADE.
I jumped at the chance of going to Panama and working with the Kuna
Indians, and I worked for a few years with the Kuna in Kuna Yala, drawing
from their traditional techniques and design of flat gold sheet cut into
wonderful birds, fish and plant forms. We made beautiful collections of
gold chains with cascading butterflies, birds, stars and moons. It was an
amazing experience working with them.
Four years ago I was asked by the charity Turquoise Mountain to go to
Kabul and design a collection with local craftsman and to teach a little
at their school, and about a year later I started to work in Bolivia with a
gold mine that was being primed to become one of the first Fairtrade gold

67
68
Designer
mines. It is a small artisanal mine in the Yungas and it was finally certified
in February this year.
So this is a part of my story and how it has taken me around the world.
Which experiences stand out the most for you?
My most amazing experiences are spending time with a group of hunters
in Sarawak, while researching illegal logging on their land – they live
deep in the rainforest and it was an incredible experience staying with
them and spending time in the jungle. Also the friendships I have built
up with the craftsman in Kabul – despite all the barriers of culture,
religion, gender and war, I have grown so close to them and so enjoyed
working with them. Working with Tom Ford was also a thrill, but what
I am most proud of is having been made an ambassador of the charity
Survival International, which works with tribal people all over the world
campaigning for their rights.
Where have you travelled to most recently?
I was in Uzbekistan – a place I have wanted to go for years, with tales of
Samarkand, Bukhara long filling my imagination. I went to see if it would
be possible to work with craftsman there on a silver jewellery collection,
but the export laws are very difficult. I did come away so inspired by
their textiles, however, and I hope to do some work with them. The old
jewellery of Uzbekistan is beautiful and full of talismanic properties – they
used lots of turquoise, coral and agates and it is bold and very beautiful.
What creative path have you taken to reach your current jewellery design
style? Can you describe your stream of consciousness in terms of influences,
inspirations and development of ideas?
I have been inspired by the people I meet; tribal design; ancient design; the
natural world; formations from nature; the materials I work with – stones and
rocks, pebbles and crystals; and the cultures I have been so lucky to work in.
If I am working in another country I try and research their traditional
techniques, materials and design aesthetics before I go to the place. I
try and draw from their historical and traditional styles and interpret
them in a way that I think will speak to the audiences in the west. It is a
collaborative method carried out with the craftsmen I work with.
I find a theme – something that interests me, for example the moon.
During the 40-year anniversary of the Apollo I made a collection from
mother of pearl, moonstones and white marble to celebrate the moon and
also to restore the magic that was robbed when man landed on the moon.
This year the collection from Afghanistan was very inspired by the
Baroque influence of the early moguls who came from Afghanistan and
made their way to India – using bright coloured stones, and all the gems
from the country.
Which precious metals and gemstones do you most enjoy working with?
I love gold – I have been working in India for 15 years now and their love
of gold has rubbed off. It is warm and soft, and it represents the sun and
is very auspicious – the high carat we use wraps itself around the stones
and holds them so smoothly. Also rock crystal – a mineral that is found
throughout the world and is common and cheap but filled with such
mystery. I love crystals full of inclusions and rainbows.
Who do you design your jewellery for?
I suppose ultimately I design for myself – what I choose to wear I hope
will also appeal to someone else. I have a great belief in the power of
rocks – their ability to comfort and the way they bring the earth close to us
and seem by their beauty and strength to protect us. I also think jewellery
is very much about memory in the west and has so many complex
sentimental attachments for us.
Where next for Pippa Small?
Next – there are many things on the cards. Another collection in
Afghanistan; a trip to Ghana to meet with gold miners who are entering
the Fairtrade process; maybe a trip to the Central African Republic to
work with the pygmies on some jewellery… many potential projects!
“If I am working in another country
I try and research their traditional
techniques, materials and design
aesthetics before I go to the place”
70
How do they do that?
X-ray fluorescence testing
The Birmingham Assay Office has had to
adapt to changes in the market throughout
its history, and particularly in the last two
decades. A prime example is the way that
items are ‘sampled’ and tested, or ‘assayed’,
to check the fineness of all components
of the article prior to hallmarking.
Technical director Dippal Manchanda
explains how this process has changed
U
ntil the latter part of the 20th century
the majority of items submitted for
hallmarking were presented unfinished,
and the removal of a minute sample of
metal for assaying did not create too much of
a problem as the customer had yet to ‘finish’
the item. However, the steady increase in
imported items and the decline in the volume
UK jewellery manufacturing trade in the
late 1990s resulted in an influx of finished,
highly polished goods from overseas for
hallmarking. This presented the UK assay
offices with an unprecedented challenge.
Suddenly hallmarking parcels consisted
predominately of complete, finished products,
destined to be shipped straight to the retailer
or importer, as opposed to semi-finished
items awaiting polishing and finishing by the
UK manufacturer.
How do they do that?
Up to this point all sampling and assaying
was carried out by physically scraping off tiny
amounts of metal from the article and then
testing it using one of the traditional referee
methods: cupellation for gold, potentiometric
titration for silver, and ICP/AAS based
technique for platinum.
X-ray fluorescence (XRF) testing was already
being used within the jewellery industry to
determine plating thickness, and this was
identified as a possible alternative method,
more suited to the new demands of the
market. Recognising the need to develop more
appropriate techniques, the assay offices sought
expertise from the XRF manufacturers and
worked closely with them to adapt the software
driving the XRF technology, and therefore to
create equipment to meet their needs.
The criteria were that the results must be
accurate, repeatable, consistent and userfriendly for their staff. In order to deliver
this the XRF unit had to be able to accurately
identify 100 per cent of elements of interest.
This was successfully delivered, and since
the beginning of the 21st century XRF has
become the standard recognised for assaying
for hallmarking. As well as being conducted
without damage to the product, assaying by
XRF means that an item can quickly be tested
in several places to check that solders and
fastenings are compliant with the Hallmarking
Act. XRF also has the benefit of being more
environmentally friendly than the traditional
cupellation method, which requires the use of
lead and energy-hungry melting furnaces.
To explain the XRF process in simple
terms, the machine emits a concentrated
beam of X-rays onto a focused spot. The size
of this target is adjusted by the operator,
who has different sizes to select from, always
aiming to choose the largest possible ‘spot
size’ where the item has a flat surface to
receive the beams evenly.
The X-rays penetrate the surface of the
material and ‘excite’ the atoms in the alloy. The
intensity of the energy that these atoms emit
is then analysed and collated automatically to
provide a reading as to the percentage of each
element in the item.
If used and calibrated correctly by an
experienced operator, XRF can produce
extremely accurate results. Accuracy is
maintained by continual calibration against
expensive reference standards and subsequent
adjustment of the reading. The machines used
by samplers at the Birmingham Assay Office are
programmed to deliver confirmation that the
article tested complies with a given test standard
– for example nine carat yellow gold. The same
technology with a stronger electric current and
a longer exposure to the beams is used by the
Laboratory to identify every element of interest
in complicated and unusual alloys. In this case
a highly trained technician will use his or her
expertise to interpret the results from a graph
and challenge every irregularity to ensure
nothing has escaped scrutiny.
However sophisticated the XRF equipment,
it will never deliver a true result for a heavily
plated item – rhodium plating on white gold
being a classic example that continually raises
queries. In these cases some scraping of the
plating may be required and operators need
to be well aware of the various scenarios which
could result in a grossly inaccurate result. At the
Assay Office, the sampler may occasionally have
to resort to the traditional skills of touch acid
testing and the referee methods of cupellation
and titration to ensure he or she obtains a
realistic result.
In recent years smaller, hand held XRF
machines have been launched onto the UK
market and many jewellers are starting to use
these to assess second hand jewellery. These
will provide a useful guide to the approximate
composition of an article but should always
be used with caution, as they are difficult to
calibrate, resulting in a wide ‘drift’ of results.
Particular care should be taken when assessing
items with curved surfaces which do not make
equal contact with the ‘window’ of the machine.
Such equipment is not yet sufficiently accurate
to deserve a place in the strict process necessary
for the UK’s negative tolerance hallmarking
regime. However, the development of XRF
and the software associated with it continues to
move on and it certainly has not realised its full
potential for the jewellery industry just yet.
Focus on the expert
Dippal Manchanda
MSc CSci CChem FRSC
Dippal Manchanda is
the chief assayer and
technical director at
the Birmingham Assay
Office, responsible
for maintaining high
analytical standards and
providing scientific and
technical expertise in all
divisions of the business.
Dippal holds a Masters
degree (MSc) in inorganic
chemistry and has over
26 years of experience
in assaying and the
examination of precious
metals and alloys. He is
also a Fellow of the Royal
Society of Chemistry
and has attained the
level of membership of
‘Chartered Chemist’. The
UK Science Council has
awarded him the status
of ‘Chartered Scientist’,
a recognition awarded
to those scientists
who demonstrate the
application to stay up-todate in their field.
The Birmingham Assay
Office was founded
in 1773 to provide a
hallmarking facility to
the rapidly expanding
local silver trade. Over
235 years it has become
established as the largest
UK assay office. During
the past decade the
Assay Office has expanded
its services further, far
beyond its statutory
assaying and hallmarking
duties, and offers
independent expert opinion
on every aspect of the
precious metal, jewellery
and gemstone trade. For
more information visit
71
your sHop door
If you’re not
buyIng gold
you’re mIssIng out
on easy profIt
use gold buying Centres to help
maximise your profits.
a range of free
p.o.s. material and stationery
postage paid delivery on your metals
payment by return
on-going help and advice
5 southgate street • gloucester gl1 1tg
tel: 01452 411249 email: [email protected]
Business
Safety
first
Preventing and dealing
with accidents in your store,
and therefore avoiding
injury claims, is largely
down to commonsense, but
Russell Jones of Fidler &
Pepper Solicitors provides
some useful pointers
I
’m often asked to make claims for people who are injured, so as a
poacher turned gamekeeper I would hope to give you some insight into
the process of injury claims and what you can do to stop claims being
made by people who are on your premises, or what to do if you find
yourself on the receiving end of a claim.
Often the UK has been described as being gripped by a compensation
culture, and there is a fear that no matter what you do, people will claim.
In fact the statistics don’t bear this out, although it’s fair to say that ‘Joe
Public’ now knows more about what he can do and when he can do it than
ever before.
A lot of what comes next is simple commonsense, and in fact most
of the law comes from this ‘commonsense’, having originally been
established by courts hearing these types of cases over the last few
centuries, although it has been added to at various times by statute to give
some guidance to owners and users alike.
What duty do you owe your customers?
Well, you must keep them safe while they are in your premises. That
might seem to be a given, but judging by some of the accident claims I
have been involved in, you wouldn’t think so.
It doesn’t mean you have to give them a personal bodyguard,
but equally you don’t want to set mantraps at every corner. In our
offices we often ask our staff to give their honest opinion on things,
as sometimes familiarity breeds contempt and also allows dangerous
practices to go unreported.
Can you really afford to turn a blind eye to things you know are wrong,
on the basis that an accident hasn’t happened yet and it’s been like that
for the last five years so? Well, my advice would be to give your premises
an honest health and safety appraisal.
•Do those cluttered aisles need tidying up?
•Have I left anything on the floor that someone could trip over?
•Does that glass shelf really need to be at eye level?
•What happens when it’s wet outside?
•Does my beautiful marble floor have to be covered with a slide-proof
rug or will a ‘wet floor’ sign save me from customers slipping over?
•Is the torn and tattered carpet/lino at the door really helping my shop’s
image? Let alone allowing anyone trying to do business with me the
opportunity to enter without falling head long into the shop?

75
76
Business
Most of us know the answers to these questions already, and you know
what’s right and what’s wrong with your premises, and what’s likely to
cause accident claims. In these difficult economic times it’s easy to say:
“We’ll get it fixed in next year’s budget as we can’t afford to do it now,”
however it usually costs far less to fix these simple things than it does
to settle a claim by a visitor. Furthermore, the things that cause hazards
to visitors are often eyesores anyway, so sorting them out can help your
business more directly.
What do you do if an accident happens?
The best thing is to respond to the situation rationally; it really doesn’t
help to start arguing with the customer. But you should take notice of
what is happening – all accidents must be recorded in your accident book,
which may well be dusty and hidden in a dark corner!
You don’t need to be Sherlock Holmes, but the time, the date and the
customer’s contact details would be good, together with an honest and fair
description of the accident. If someone was with the customer ask for their
contact details as well, or any witnesses who would share their details.
Try to avoid any excuses at this stage. If the carpet really was torn to
shreds and should have been replaced then say so. There isn’t any point
in saying anything different. Equally, if things were fine then record it like
that, and, even better, take a photograph on your mobile phone. While
these have been invaluable to claimants I have dealt with, equally you
shouldn’t be shy of taking some photos yourself. Don’t tidy things up if it
looks a bit messy, however, as untidiness doesn’t necessarily mean that any
claim would win against you, but an accusation that you have carried out a
spring-clean before taking photos certainly wouldn’t help your case.
Call an ambulance if you think one is needed – most people get up
hurriedly when they fall over and don’t want to make a fuss, but it is
important that they feel looked after as their custom is valuable to you,
so if you really think they should go to hospital tell them so and make
arrangements if necessary.
Statistics really do say that a lot of clients either wanted someone to
care or just a simple apology for what happened, despite what you may
have read elsewhere. For example, it’s amazing how many of the claims
against hospitals I handle are by people who only want an explanation
and for someone to say they are sorry; they didn’t get this and the anger
and frustration that is generated is often what sends them into the
claim process. The health authorities have finally realised this fact and
have consequently set up a system for an explanation and apology to be
provided before the court claims start.
Once everything is sorted and the accident book is completed I would
recommend writing a short note of your memory of the occurrence, as it
happened, and just slip it inside the book. Hopefully you won’t be having
many incidents like this so you won’t need to be writing these every day;
five minutes now might save a lot of hassle later if a claim is sought.
Use this opportunity to then have another look at your premises. Was it
your fault? Could you have done something better? If the answer to either
of those questions is ‘yes’, then get something done about it now – after
all, maintaining a safe environment and keeping your customers in one
piece will make them happy enough to spend with you, and that’s what
trading is all about.
Russell Jones is a specialist claims solicitor and senior partner at Fidler & Pepper
Solicitors (www.fidler.co.uk). For any help or advice on claims or how to protect your
business, you can give him a call on 01623 451 111.
S t a t i s t i c s re a l l y d o
say that a lot of
clients either wanted
s o m e o n e t o c a re o r
just a simple apology
for what happened,
despite what you may
h a v e re a d e l s e w h e re
78
Selling
Repairs
mean sales
Leonard Zell reminds jewellers of the
potential for transforming jewellery
repair enquiries into valuable sales
H
S i nce you are
t a l king about
re pairs, don’t
miss this
o pportunity
– remember
t o volunteer
t o clean any
o t h er jewellery
t h e customer
may have
ow many times have I overheard
customers being directed straight to the
repair department with their damaged
jewellery? Too many times. Do jewellers
really know how much in lost sales this costs
them? Of course not, otherwise they would
stop doing it.
Some jewellers pass this off by saying that
their colleagues in the repairs department will
know when there is potential for a sale, and
will find a salesperson to deal with the enquiry.
What I want to know is why the judgment is left
up to those colleagues, when the salespeople
are supposedly trained to know if repairs can
be converted into sales? What is even worse is
when the salesperson passes off the customer to
the repair department, and then doesn’t even
bother to go and follow it up.
I have written about leaks in jewellers’
stores in previous issues of Jewellery Focus,
and brushing customers off to the repair
department is one of the biggest leaks. But
this leak can be stopped if salespeople are
told to take in all repairs when they are not
busy selling.
However, that solves one problem, but creates
another; most salespeople have no idea what to
look for to convert repairs into sales. Here are
some clues:
Worn claws and shanks: Too many
salespeople recommend a new shank and claws
and think a £300 sale is sufficient. Jewellers
have no idea of the diamond sales they are
missing. When I point this out to them their
excuse is that their customers want their old
ring, and so just want it to be fixed. What
they neglected to do was to acknowledge the
sentiment of the diamond ring, explaining
to the customer that there will be very little
sentiment remaining because the old shank
and claws must be removed and replaced with
new ones. Many customers think all you have to
do is add gold, but now their minds are open
and once they understand that most of the
sentiment is lost they may be willing to look for
an alternative option.
You can show them how much more brilliant
their diamonds will look in a new setting,
because more light is allowed to come in
through the side of them. Show them one
of your diamond rings and how it is set, and
have them try it on. Since their financial
circumstances may have changed since the old
ring was purchased, they may be ready to buy a
larger diamond.
More repairs: Since you are talking
about repairs, don’t miss this opportunity –
remember to volunteer to clean any other
jewellery the customer may have, and tell
him or her that you will check it for any wear,
loose diamonds or chipped stones. If this is
done consistently there will be a lot of sales
generated from that steam machine.
Watches: The potential here is enormous,
especially for men. When they come in for
a new battery, show them watches that are
different to theirs, especially those with all
the whistles and bells. Think of the millions
of smartphones they have bought; the phone
companies made it easy for you. Almost all men
love toys, and the phone companies have put
your customers in the mood to look at your
imagination-capturing watches. Are you in the
mood to sell them?
Keep an eye on the repair department:
You must be prepared to go back to the repair
department and wait on the customers who
went directly there. The potential for creating
new sales is enormous, and why miss out on
diamond sales?
You will see how to create sales from repairs explained in further detail in Leonard’s 180-page sales manual on proven jewellery selling
techniques. And for the perfect complement, order
– a full day’s sales training seminar recorded live on three CDs. Order
at
Leonard Zell has been training fine jewellers around the world for 25 years. He will be conducting sales seminars in the UK this autumn. To
find more about his sales training seminars go to his website,
, email him at
, or call him in the US on 001 503
412 9521 after 4pm UK time.
Subscribe now!
to
Jewellery
FOCUS
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80
Industry Data
Prices • Figures • Outlook
Retail sales volume: June 2011
When compared to the previous month, June saw the value of
retail sales increase by 0.3 per cent and the volume by 0.7 per
cent. Year-on-year the value of sales rose four per cent and the
volume 0.4 per cent.
Between June 2010 and June 2011, the main downward pressure
on sales came from the predominantly food store sector, which
decreased by 4.2 per cent; the largest fall since records began
in 1988. Upward pressure came from predominantly non-food
stores, which rose by 0.9 per cent, and motor fuel, which rose by
3.1 per cent. However, the greatest upward pressure came from
non-store retailing, which posted a staggering rise of a record
24.4 per cent.
Approximately £32.1 billion was spent on retail goods during June
2011, up by £1.2 billion from the same period a year ago.
Source: ONS
Metal prices
Jun 11
Jul 11
Aug 11
Change
Sterling silver (£/Kg)
670.20
654.11
722.02
Plus 10%
Gold (£/g)
30.22
30.35
33.16
Plus 9%
Palladium (£/g)
15.56
15.42
15.29
Minus 1%
Platinum (£/g)
35.79
34.70
34.60
No Change
Rhodium (£/g)
42.74
40.22
37.94
Minus 6%
Iridium (£/g)
20.69
21.11
20.76
Minus 2%
Ruthenium (£/g)
3.55
3.62
3.50
Minus 3%
Scrap metal prices
Jun 11
Jul 11
Aug 11
Change
Sterling silver scrap (£/kg)
629.26
614.15
677.92
Plus 10%
9ct Gold scrap (£/g)
10.93
10.98
12.00
Plus 9%
14ct Gold scrap (£/g)
17.06
17.13
18.72
Plus 9%
18ct Gold scrap (£/g)
21.87
21.97
24.00
Plus 9%
22ct Gold scrap (£/g)
26.71
26.83
29.31
Plus 9%
Platinum (95%) scrap (£/g)
28.90
28.02
27.94
No Change
Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com
All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals
accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put
Diamond prices
Jun
Aug
2010
Oct
Dec
Feb
Seasonally adjusted figures
2011
Apr
Jun
Weight
G/VVS
G/SI
J/VVS
J/SI
J/I1
0.05 Carat
1,706
938
1,177
853
751
0.10 Carat
1,638
1,045
1,579
936
702
0.25 Carat
2,647
1,462
2,212
1,243
848
0.50 Carat
7,421
3,393
4,594
2,969
2,544
0.75 Carat
8,940
5,596
5,801
4,095
3,276
1.00 Carat
15,793
8,423
10,611
6,844
4,475
The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant
cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but
the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond
prices for additional accuracy.
Compiled at 8th August 2011 / Dollar Exchange Rate 1.6412
Industry Data
Hallmark figures
July 10
July 11
Variance
%
111.2
Silver
999
537
1,134
597
958
1,349
386
-963
-71.4
925
707,903
485,952
-221,951
-31.4
800
85
30
-55
-64.7
709,874
487,502
-222,372
-31.3
999
20
51
31
155.0
990
14
0
-14
-100.0
Gold
916
28,583
30,742
2,159
7.6
750
91,662
81,938
-9,724
-10.6
-62.9
585
24,224
8,995
-15,229
375
291,714
255,158
-36,556
-12.5
436,217
376,884
-59,333
-13.6
-50.0
Platinum
999
10
5
-5
950
21,950
21,820
-130
-0.6
900
8
14
6
75.0
850
Palladium
999
Total
3
2
-1
-33.3
21,971
21,841
-130
-0.6
-100.0
3
0
-3
950
9,317
8,747
-570
-6.1
500
–
1,041
1,041
100.0
9,320
9,788
468
5.0
1,177,382
896,015
-281,367
-23.9
The July hallmarking statistics show a similar pattern to the previous
month, with the total number of units hallmarked down 23.9 per cent
compared to July 2010 – a total of 896,015 units were hallmarked
across the four UK assay offices, compared with 1,177,382 in July
2010. Total gold items hallmarked were down 13.6 per cent, while the
total number of silver articles hallmarked was 487,502 compared to
709,874 last year, a drop of 31 per cent. This is not surprising given
that the average price of silver during the month reached £23.50 per
troy oz, compared with an average of £11.75 per troy oz in July 2010.
Platinum was flat while palladium showed a small growth of five per cent.
81
Events and auctions
Image: MIDORA Leipzig
82
Events
26 – 30 August
Tendence
Messe Frankfurt
Frankfurt, Germany
tendence.messefrankfurt.com
28 – 30 August
JAA International Jewellery Fair
Sydney Exhibition Centre
Darling Harbour
Sydney, Australia
www.internationaljewelleryfair.com.au
1 – 3 September
Japan Jewellery Fair
Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center
Tokyo, Japan
www.japanjewelleryfair.com
2 – 4 September
Times Glamour
Vivanta by Taj President
South Bombay, India
www.timesglamour.com
2 – 5 September
Eclat de Mode
Paris Porte de Versailles
Paris, France
www.bijorhca.com
3 – 5 September
MIDORA Leipzig
Leipzig Exhibition Centre
Leipsic, Germany
www.midora.de
4 – 7 September
Autumn Fair International
NEC, Birmingham
www.autumnfair.com
4 – 7 September
International Jewellery London
Earls Court 2, London
www.jewellerylondon.com
10 – 14 September
VICENZAORO Choice
Fiera di Vicenza
Vicenza, Italy
www.vicenzafiera.it
17 – 21 September
Junwex Moscow
All-Russian Exhibition Centre
Moscow, Russia
www.eng.rjexpert.ru
18 – 19 September
Scotland’s Trade Fair Autumn
The SECC
Glasgow
www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk
19 – 23 & 21 – 25 September
September Hong Kong
Jewellery and Gem Fair
AsiaWorld-Expo & Hong
Kong Convention and
Exhibition Centre
Hong Kong
www.jewellerynetasia.com/en/fairs.html
20 – 23 September
Costume Jewellery and
Accessories Salon
Manezh Exhibition Complex
Moscow
Russia
www.gifts-expo.com/eng/salons/3.html
21 – 25 September
Portojóia
Porto International Fair
Oporto, Portugal
www.portojoia.exponor.pt
30 September – 3 October
INTERGEM
Messe Idar-Oberstein
Idar-Oberstein
Germany
www.intergem-messe.de
6 – 9 October
Liverpool Design Festival
St George’s Hall, Liverpool
www.liverpooldesignfestival.com
Auction dates
6 September
Campbells
Jewellery, silver, clocks
and watches
Worthing, West Sussex
www.campbellsauctions.co.uk
13 September
Bonhams
Jewellery
Oxford
www.bonhams.com
7 September
Bonhams
Jewellery
Knightsbridge, London
20 September
Capes Dunn
Antique jewellery, silver,
watches, wares and coins
Manchester
8 September
Bonhams
Jewellery and silver
Edinburgh
21 September
Bonhams
Fine jewellery
New Bond Street, London
9 September
Wellers Auctioneers
Jewellery, watches,
silver and clocks
Chertsey
Surrey
23 September
Wellers Auctioneers
Pawnbroker and secondhand jewellery
Chertsey
Surrey
10 September
Kent Auction Galleries Ltd
Victorian and later effects,
including jewellery,
silver and coins
Folkestone
Kent
24 September
Kent Auction Galleries Ltd
Victorian and later effects,
including jewellery,
silver and coins
Folkestone
Kent
www.bonhams.com
www.bonhams.com
www.wellersauctions.com
www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk
www.capesdunn.com
www.bonhams.com
www.wellersauctions.com
www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk
4 October
Dreweatts 1759
Jewellery, silver,
watches and coins
Bristol
www.dnfa.com
7 October
Wellers Auctioneers
Jewellery, watches,
silver and clocks
Chertsey, Surrey
www.wellersauctions.com
8 October
Kent Auction Galleries Ltd
Victorian and later effects,
including jewellery,
silver and coins
Folkestone, Kent
www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk
18 October
Campbells
Jewellery, silver, clocks
and watches
Worthing, West Sussex
www.campbellsauctions.co.uk
22 October
Kent Auction Galleries Ltd
Antiques and fine arts, including
jewellery, silver and coins
Folkestone, Kent
www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk
7 – 10 October
Malaysia Jewellery Festival
Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre
Kuala Lumpur, Malaya
www.mij.com.my/MJF
8 – 10 October
ZAK Jewels Expo
Vivanta by Taj Connemara
Madras, India
www.zakjewelsexpo.com
15 – 18 October
Jewelers International
Showcase
Miami Beach Convention Center
Miami, Florida, United States
www.jisshow.com
29 – 31 October
Jewelers International
Showcase
Caesars Palace, Las Vegas,
Nevada, United States
www.jisshow.com
28 October
Wellers Auctioneers
Pawnbroker and secondhand jewellery
Chertsey
Surrey
www.wellersauctions.com
3 November
Bonhams
Jewellery
Knightsbridge, London
www.bonhams.com
4 November
Bonhams
Jewellery
Oxford
www.bonhams.com
5 November
Bonhams
Jewellery
Knightsbridge
London
www.bonhams.com
5 November
Kent Auction Galleries Ltd
Victorian and later effects,
including jewellery,
silver and coins
Folkestone
Kent
www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk
10 – 13 November
Dubai International Jewellery Week
Dubai International Convention
and Exhibition Centre
Dubai, United Arab Emirates
www.jewelleryshow.com
18 – 20 November
Desire Jewellery and
Silversmithing Fair
Guildhall Winchester, Winchester
www.desirefair.com
2 – 5 December
China International Gold,
Jewellery and Gem Fair
Shanghai World Expo Theme
Pavilion, Shanghai, China
www.jewellerynetasia.com/en/fairs.html
3 – 11 December
VICENZANTIQUARIA
Fiera di Vicenza
Vicenza, Italy
www.vicenzafiera.it
8 November
Bonhams
Jewellery
Oxford
www.bonhams.com
11 November
Jacobs & Hunt
Silver and jewellery
Petersfield, Hampshire
www.jacobsandhunt.com
11 November
Wellers Auctioneers
Jewellery and watches
Chertsey, Surrey
www.wellersauctions.com
22 November
A F Brock & Company Limited
Jewellery, watches
and silverware
Hazel Grove, Stockport, Cheshire
www.afbrock.co.uk
Directory
DIRECTORY
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AMBER JEWELLERY
ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS
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ANTIQUE REPRODUCTION
ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS
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ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS
BARCODING, LABELLING & PRINTING
BEADS
Totally Wholesale
Burhouse Beads is the UK’s largest
wholesale supplier of gemstones,
jewellery findings and components.
Specialising in fresh water pearls and high
quality bead strings. We also offer a full
range of associated hardware and tools.
Visit: www.burhousebeads.co.uk
Burhouse Beads, Quarmby Mills, Tanyard Road, Oakes,
Huddersfield West Yorkshire, England HD3 4YP
Tel: +44 (0)1484 485100 Fax: 44 (0)1484 462696
Email: [email protected]
83
84
Directory
BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING
O
& C.,
CHARMS
CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY
ROEDER HOUSE, VALE ROAD LONDON N4 1QA
EMAIL: [email protected]
WEB: www.justbros.co.uk
Tel: 020 8880 2505 - Fax: 020 8802 0062
ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING
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Directory
DIAMOND SETTINGS
DIAMONDS
ENAMELLERS
85
Fresh water pearls
ENGRAVERS
GEMSTONES
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Fashion Jewellery
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12:38
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12:38
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86
Directory
GEMSTONES
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Handmade jewellery
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JEWELLERS TOOLS
GOLD & SILVER JEWELLERY
JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS
JEWELLERY EQUIPMENT
Directory
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PLATINUM SPECIALISTS
JEWELLERY REPAIRS
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Directory
88
RESTRINGING
SHOPFITTING
SHOPFITTING
TROPHIES & MEDALS
WATCH REPAIRS
SIGNET RINGS
SCRAP PURCHASE
SILVER JEWELLERY
Repair Services
Is your Rolex watch
bracelet stretched
and worn?
bqw
rolex specialist
At BQ Watches we
can make it look
brand NEW
SECURITY
We now specialise in the repair and
refurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets
Call now for a FREE Quotation
020 8731 2566
www.bqwatches.com
Full shop refurbishment service
Unique hardwood points of sale
Fabulous lighting
Bespoke display cabinets
Watts Design, Barnstaple, Devon EX31 4EN
Tel: 0844 5611932 or 01598 710215
Email: [email protected]
www.wattsdesign.co.uk
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WEDDING RINGS
NOTICEBOARD
89
90
Your Views
Voice
onthe
Karim Merchant of
Identity the Jewellers, Derby
Could you explain a bit about the history of Identity?
We are a new enterprise that opened in the Westfield Centre
in Derby on the 9 October 2007. The main aim of Identity
is to sell quality jewellery and gifts not currently available
in Derby. We mainly target the male audience and have a
very wide, diverse range of men’s jewellery. However, since
opening we have expanded and now also offer a large choice
of women’s jewellery.
Identity the Jewellers has developed from many years of
research and experience. Sterling silver is our preferred
material, but we also offer steel, tungsten, titanium, 18 carat
gold and meteorite.
Why did you choose to specialise in men’s jewellery?
We wanted to have a unique selling point that would set
us apart from other retail jewellers. When we researched
stores around us, we saw there was not a wide range of men’s
jewellery available to customers, despite a large variety at
jewellery shows. This made the decision a little easier as to
who the target audience would be for Identity the Jewellers.
How did the Identity team members come to be involved in the
jewellery trade?
One of the directors, Andrew Warner, has a BA in Jewellery
& Silversmithing and is skilled in creating individuallydesigned jewellery. Fellow directors were accountants
specialising in small business.
highstreet
Is Derby a good place to do business? What do you enjoy about
trading in the town?
Since the opening of the Westfield Centre it has become
very busy, with a footfall of 500,000 people a week. We seem
to attract, as a business, a wide variety of ethnic groups
and we take pride in getting to know different people from
different backgrounds.
What’s selling well at the moment?
Cœur de Lion, Story, Unique, Trollbeads, Storywheels
and Festina.
You have an extensive online store – is this an essential part of
being a 21st century jeweller?
Very, especially when you are an independent retailer
with only one shop, as you want to be able to reach as
many potential customers as possible. As we speak, we
are completely re-designing our website to create a more
interactive environment and set themes in place that give the
customer a feel of actually being in the store.
What advice would you give to someone hoping to open their own
jewellery business?
Be 100 per cent committed and passionate towards it. Always
try to look for a unique selling point that no other jeweller
can offer. Customer service is paramount, so try to offer that
extra personal touch that chains cannot.
Finally, what are Identity’s plans for the future?
We are planning to expand and offer the customers of
Westfield Derby something new that Derby as a whole
doesn’t currently offer. All I can say is, keep a look out for
us in the near future!